Mobile Pascal TDP Tweaker Update and Feedback Thread

Oh ok so you're saying pin 1 is just a small indentation on the chip but I can't find any indentation on my chip. Only a small dip where the where the white/ gold spot is

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I have attached images to show this

 

The indentation is the little hole under the blue mark on the one chip. The same under the other colour mark.

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Give me a few seconds and i will upload a photo of mine and how to set it up for vbios flashing!

 

OK thanks!

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Right for use with CH341A Programmer for vBios Flashing:

In sure you use the Pins for 25 Area: Image Link 1
So when using the 1.8V Adaptor it looks like: Image Link 2
Then on using the Test Clip Adaptor it will look like: Image Link 3

The Images are behind links as this forum sometimes has issues, not only that it safes wasted Database space on someone quoting the whole post.

WARNING!!!: SOME OF THESE CH341A ADAPTORS HAVE ISSUES WHERE IT WILL PUT 5V THROUGH RATHER THEN 3.3V SO PLEASE BE CAREFUL.
WHEN FLASHING VBIOS ALWAYS USE 1.8v ADAPTORS AND PIN 1 IS ALWAYS THE INDENTATION NOT THE PAINT MARKING ON THE VBIOS CHIP!

Always make 3 firmware dumps and compare them to insure the data matches to insure there is no corruption before modding or flashing modded firmware.

@Timbabs123 Here you go!

Doing these types of modifications can damage hardware so do so at your OWN RISK!
I nor NotebookReview will be held liable if you fry your hardware, kill your cat or cause a nuclear disaster!

 

What if the indentation and the paint are both at the same place, like shown in the picture attached

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Also another question, does the battery have to be plugged in for it to work?. And am guessing the laptop has to be switched off as well

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Any source of power on the system your flashing must be removed. This means no battery or ac must be connected when detecting and flashing the soic chip.

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Right okay. I I just tried it again and still no luck. This is how I connect the clips to the 1.8v adapter and the clip to the bios chip, I don't think anything is wrong but pls have a look and let me know.. Many thanks

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That is correct however, your clip placement might be slightly off. Does the Flashing software detect the chip?
Personally i use a SkyPro for vBios or any BIOS related to a laptop desktop etc. I only have used the CH341A on dead routers.

 

Right okay. The CHA341A programmer tool doesnt detect the chip but the options are unlocked once its plugged in (the read/write options). One more question, do you leave the jumper plug on the 1.2 section or should I move it to the 3.3/5v section.

 

My jumper is on the 1-2 setting which is SPI mode, setting the jumper to 2-3 is TTL mode. DO not move the Jumper to the 3.3v and 5v area thats the worse thing you can do. If the software is not detecting the chip it means the connection to the chip is off. Make sure you align the pins correctly to the clip.

 

Oh alright, I will try buying a male to female dupont cable as I already have another Pomona clip(the blue one) and if that still doesn't work then I will buy the skypro. Thanks guys.

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Getting a Skypro will just be a better idea to be honest! Its safer and known to work just like the TL886a and tl866cs programmers. Software is better too.

 

The Skypro and Skypro II will both work fine. But it must detect the chip for flashing to work. If it does NOT detect the chip, it means that the connection to the chip with the IC clip is bad (or pin 1 is not connected correctly).

Your problem I'm GUESSING is due to that crappy prebuilt clip + soic8 rectangular adapter board (the board isn't the problem, the CLIP is). Those clips are very VERY VERY CHEAPLY MADE, sometimes the plastic heads are too thick and get blocked by components on the video card when trying to insert it on the pins, or sometimes the metal pins are too cheap and too bad and won't make secure contact. THE ONLY WAY TO GET 100% GUARANTEED CONTACT EASILY is to use the Pomona clip. Usually just takes one attempt at mounting and aligning (2 at most) and bam it works.

You just have to remember that pin 1 is at the top left on the 1.8v adapter, so that has to be wired to a 'matching' pin 1 on the Pomona clip (as if you were looking down at the pins, with the teeth facing downwards), with pin 1 also the 'top left' pin on the Pomona pins (facing towards you), and pin 8 at the TOP RIGHT of the Pomona pins. For this configuration to make easy sense, hold the pomona clip 'vertically' so the pins are in two 'long vertical' columns rather than two horizontal long rows.

 

That's the one I have, CH341A black pcb, that works fine no voltage adapter needed.

Theres a youtube video that will help you by some guy, search NSC ch341a black. Jumpers matter as do where you are putting the adapter. If connected properly when you click Autodetect it will instantly show the ROM chip's details, if it's garbled $5$F type alphanumerics its connected wrong, or if they change every time you click detect, your contact with the chip (even if aligned and set up correctly) is the issue.

I never got the green pcb on top to work, dunno why, I suspected contact issues, so I just bent the pin extension to fit in the clamped part. Brb with pic

 

Oh sweet thanks, that will be so useful. And when you say you didn't need an adapter, do you mean the 1.8v voltage adapter?

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Just used a simple CH341A -> SOC8 150mil adapter to fit the ROM chip legs, no voltage adjustments necessary from the signal out of the programmer

This was the setup video I followed:

programmer+cable cost like 15 bux total

Has worked on
GT60 main BIOS+EC
Clevo GTX670M
My MSI MXM 1070's
Clevo 7970M, M290X

 

Without the voltage adapter, isn't there a risk of you burning your bios chip due to high voltage, especially the gpu bios chip as that uses 1.8v and the programmer may use something else?

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Just watch the youtube videos that NSC guy did on the CH341A and use the software package he linked, that's all I did to set the thing up, and it worked first time and worked ever since (so long as the adapter cable had good contact with the rom's legs)

I flashed the vBIOS ROMs on both my 1070s many many many times while trying to get the card working fully on my laptop, and TDP modding since then - if they were going to burn they would have done so

 

Alright then thank you.

 

So the app has had no updates? I wonder if it's still being worked on cos it's been a while since the last release.

 

Just because there is no updates doesn't mean its not being worked on. Development takes time and developers are allowed to take breaks to be with family etc, or back burn a project. The core function still works, we still able to mod our vbioses to unlock them.

Its not as if the app has a date kill switch in it.

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Or, more simply, what's broke that needs fixing?

 

Since MXM specification is 195W max, should I take apart my MSIbook again and go from 185W to 195W? If LM repasting wasn't so annoying I would have done that already...

 

Didn't someone in this thread kill his MXM GPU when in the 190/200W area? Maybe it's best to just leave it at 185W to allow for some margin. EDIT: oh yeah, I think it was Coolane, but he was in the 200-260W bracket during his testing (post #1) - not sure what long term setting he was at when his GPU died.

 

His GPU was killed by flexing and a modded heatsink because the Clevo heatsink (980m) didn't fit the 1070 MSI card properly. TDP didn't kill it, and he was at 258W-266W or something. Resoldering flow and traces by @Khenglish fixed it.

I'm 100% sure my card can handle 195W (I've done multi-hour stress testing at 185W, plus I'm using LM and Arctic thermal pads). Card isn't what I'm worried about. I'm 100% sure the card can handle it since MSI actually has decent cooling. It's if the BGA turdbook will blow a sprocket or not from the power delivery system (the Clevo can handle it, the MSI GT73VR jokebook, who knows).

 

Ok seems fine at 195W. Had a conductive ball of doom squished and sitting right on top of a SMD component after I removed the heatsink before mod and repaste, right next to the foam dam. The nail polish protective coating did its job very well.

Got 21901 on firestrike with +180 / +700

 

What size Arctic thermal pads do you use?

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1mm on mine.
At least those were the size of the original pads.

 

Wow thanks @bennyg it worked!!! DD +Rep

I flashed without the 1.8v adapter but I used the second adapter that came with the pack to connect it directly to the flasher. I have attached a picture of this. Thanks man.

 

Wasn't @Coolane using a 980DT heatsink? they did say they're mods weren't all that great while my was a bit better and made better contact with the GPU die.

https://imgur.com/a/Ae2KY

 

New 3dmark scores gotten after the tdp unlock. Highest clevo with the gtx 1070 in the rankings for both results

Fire-strike: https://www.3dmark.com/fs/14528630 (broke the 15k barrier)

Time-spy: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/3011603 (broke the 6k barrier)

 

We're not really interested in the 3dmark score as a much as the graphics score. It breaks 18k which is decent considering the average graphics score for the desktop 1070 is 17.8k and it even beats a 1070 Ti's scores .

If you have a decent power delivery system in the motherboard you push for a better score.

Here's a comparision of my test with yours:

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/14528630/fs/14532793#

What I did to my 1070 was push it to 170W and +150/+300 and I reach over 20k. If I pushed it to 180W with this OC the test would just crash. your overall score will still suffer because of the mobile CPU.

my OC'd 1070 is roughly (using the average FS graphics score)....

11% faster than the stock desktop 1070 Ti
15% faster than the stock desktop 1070
17% faster than the stock titan x maxwell
20% faster than the stock laptop 1070
56% faster than the stock laptop 980
62% faster than the stock desktop 980
111% faster than the stock 980M


I'm somewhere between the 1070Ti and the laptop 1080 - that's not a bad place to be really.

You're around the 1070 Ti range...still a good spot considering you beat a maxwell Titan X.

 

These are my latest results on 3dmark 11 Performance and i think they are pretty decent.


https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/12575173

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/24265201?

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/24265278?

 

Hello again,
I'm wondering if it's possible to flash a further modded vbios to our gtx 1070s if i have already done flashing a modded vbios with a hardware flasher? Is the nvidia protection is still on with my modded vbios?

Background: i want to flash a 185 watt vbios to my card. Now running a 175 watt one.

 

@hans12321 The flash signature protection is within the nvflash binary hence if you need to flash the vbios again with another modded one you still need to use the hardware route.

 

Okay thank you for your answer!

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@hans12321 No problem bud! Goodluck @ 185w just be careful not to damage your system.

 

I'm currently running 175 watts with max. Temperatures of 71 degrees after hours of gaming

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@hans12321 i am thinking more about your mainboard VRM and gpu VRAM's! As we do not get VRM temps read outs as there is no sensors on it. Last thing you want is a Driver or VRM to bust.

 

Yes thats right but i got pretty decent scores on 175w so i think i will stay there

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even at 151W you still get decent scores.

 

Whats your max tdp right now?

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170w but remember that I am using an MXM card and not a BGA GPU.

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oh @hans12321 is using a BGA version ouch! no offense there @hans12321 be very careful then i think @thegh0sts can agree with the worries over VRM's specially when your using the BGA version and not the MXM version. Nice temps and scores though guys getting a GTX 1070 soon when i can save enough through @Eurocom Support i have begged and begged them for other ways of getting but it didn't work LOL.

 

Yep unfortunately it's bga.. my card can run 1960 mhz with just 0.945 v. So i think that the vrms should stay okay with this.

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Probably don't get the standard mxm version because it has a lot of issues. The MSI 1070 is preferable if you can fit it in. I'm reaching the one year mark with the MSI 1070.

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Even at 151w you are still beating the desktop 1070 just based on pure FS graphics score alone. 151w plus an overclock should be ok.

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@thegh0sts Using a GT72-6QD so MSI should work fine however i was willing if @Eurocom Support was willing to test out the Normal MXM 3.0 spec'd version just to see how well that performed after all so long as it didn't take out the MXM slot i'd still have the GTX 1060 / GTX 970m cards as backup should something happen. It would also mean they would get tested for vbios modding as well.

After all i will be doing a new Upgrade Video for the GT72-6Q series soon with sound showing everything from tear down to replacement of the GPU etc.

@hans12321 Goodluck buddy on 185w mod. Let us know how it goes.