My 5920g...WITH A HD 4650! (need help)

as I don't have a digital camera I found another acer 8920G pic where I added drawing
it's a 9500M GS on the pic and not a 4650
you can see where the copper sheet are



in fact the big copper sheet is in contact with both memory copper sheet (the small black square)
as the heat from the memory is a little higher than the core gpu one
on the right side is the cpu
another advantage is that the big copper sheet help dissipating more heat as the wind is going trough
it does help decreasing the temp of the whole package (cpu + gpu)

 

hmmm nice idea. This would work well, as most people's GPUs are a fair amount closer to max temp than there CPUs. If I can get my hands on some copper I'll do the same.

 

What guy in england is selling copper? Could you give me a link?

 

http://cgi.ebay.de/DV6000-Copper-Shim-for-GPU-Heat-Sink-Thermal-Pad-0-9mm_W0QQitemZ160389374689QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_LaptopAccess_RL?hash=item2557f3a2e1

 

I've just found out it is possible to change 4650 memory from ddr2 to ddr3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjKEmKUatJ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdN53F5YQwk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9eZFo7hQco
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUpfLzrNbac

 

There are to many things that could wrong in that operation... I highly advise against doing it. I'd also remind you that changing the ram chips is not enough. You also have to change the memory controller too. And ddr2 and ddr3 chips do not have the same size, and might not even have the same numbers of pin.

 

Thx for the link, +1 rep for that. Are you sure its the exact size for the 5920g?
Also, did you only use arctic silver 5? Because I read that ICD7/IC Diamond 7 is way better.

 

It's 0,9mm thick and the perfect size. So maybe it's about 20x20mm - 25x25mm, so I think its also a good size so you don't have to cut it to the correct size.

 

First of all, i have given this link here but thats ok.
Secondly, its 1mm unless stated othewise.
1 mm is the perfect thickness.
As i mention some posts ago, no its not at the right size of the copper core, but you dont have to cut it, just remove the black sticker and you will have a bigger contact area.
Please read the previous posts because we are repeating ourselves with your questions.

 

Anyone got any ideas were I could buy an mxm ii ati hd 4670 or 4650?

 

http://www.acer-ersatzteile.de/product_info.php?cPath=10_1006_140957&products_id=140957458940

Please look through the old posts because there are most of the questions answered.

 

Cheers for the link.

I actually got this link already off the acer guy blog but when I got in touch with them they said that the card is NOT compatible with 5920g.

Is there anyone who has purchased this card from this website and got it too work in 5920g?

 

Did TehSuigi say it doesn't work??

 

Some other shops are also mentioned in the previous pages.

And of course they say its not compatible.
Its not supposed to be in this laptop and without some minor modes, this card can not work.
Read the thread from the start.

 

Yup I know this one for example: http://www.ipc-computer.eu/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ati+radeon+hd+4650
but its the exact same card that is offered here http://www.acer-ersatzteile.de/product_info.php?cPath=10_1006_140957&products_id=140957458940

Thx for posting the ebay link previously ill rep as soon as I can rep again. I've been looking for some copper for ages. I'm really exited to start tuning my laptop ^^ But I'm still going to make myself wait till assassins creed 2 will be released to see if a 2ghz cpu with the ati hd4650 can actually run it.

So far I got those 2 sites which I just posted for a gpu, the link you gave for the copper, am still looking for a store that sells that diamond thermal compound, and also finaly found a 2.5 inch hard drive at 7200 rpm with 320 gigs. I'll make a full guide of my 'tuning adventure' to show others how to do it aswell.

 

I wasn't going to as my current 4650 ddr2 is enough for my needs but I wondered how to do that
And thanks because you gave me an idea, I think the best way to do that would be to look at a pic of a 4670 ddr3

I bought mine from http://www.notebook-doctor.com/

 

It is the exact same because these stores are...one.
It is one store with different sites.

 

I have to say that i also replaced my hd with a Seagate Momentus G version 7200 rpm and the difference in speed is noticable.

You can get arctic silver from ebay at approx. 4 pounds.

 

In which way do you notice it?
Do you have higher frames or performance?
What CPU do you have?

 

Well i'm more worried about the shipping costs, since most sellers will probably be from the USA, so the sending alone would probably cost more than the purchase itself. I'm going to go for that diamond compound since I read that its better than arctic silver. As we all know the 5920g is not a 'cool' laptop, so even if it would cost me 100 euros (which it doesnt btw ) and would only reduce 1-3 degrees, I'd still glady pay for the better thermal paste just to ensure that my laptop would have a longer life.

Edit: when I asked about a new Hard Drive they suggested the WD scorpio black instead of Seagates Hitachi.

 

At loading times, especially at startup.
You have repeatedly asked me this question, i have a t7300.

@Student@Antwerp2009
And i can give you many links that say the opposite thing about the thermal paste and the momentus.
Especially the momentus was the first of many disks (and the scorpio) at some benchmark tests.
Google is your friend.
1-2 degrees, just with different paste is not going to happen.

 

Can somebody upload this bios on rapidshare or hot file somewhere different than megaupload please. Silly but it is banned by court order in my country, I cannot reach.

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/338997647/NEWuv.rom.html

 

Thank you my friend I really appreciate it. I'm on it now and also I think I found another way to reduce voltage temporary in each session(not by bios) but it works. So let share it with my friends. You can use Amd gpu clock tool to adjust voltage alternately between 0.9, 1.0 and 1.1 Volts. But settins lost in each session you have to adjust it again. I set it 0.9V. than Icould use it in referans gpu ram speeds without problem. Than I tried to o.c. gpu with GPU-tool but not a chance at first step 555 mhz gpu it gave error. But 550 Mhz fine. Later I tried to o.c. the ram it seems fine to o.c. the ram at 0.9V.

 

When I mailed them they said that they, nor acer know what people are doing with their products so that they will not give any warranty on the gpu if you try putting it somewhere where it isn't meant to be put. But, as this forum shows, it can be done.
I'm still waiting for the price to go down before I try.

 

By the way it is max. 73 degrees at stress on 0.9V.

 

Do you get any artefacts while gaming or running furmark?
Mine is at 1.0V and maximum is at 84°C.
The copper is 0,6mm thick and about 18x18mm.

 

Do you think it would work if I would cut out a metal square out of a drinking can? And put AS5 or that diamond compound on it?
I just hope I won't cut myself, cans are very sharp.

 

Maybe it would work. But you have to ensure that the metal isn't bent too much.

 

Ye I figured, but since its so thin I could always just hammer it...
I will also use some sandpaper to get rid of al the ink on the metal just to be sure.
I think i'll get myself some thermal compound first to practise on my current gpu. I just saw an incredible keyboard for 200€, so I'll have to think a bit, wether to spend that money on the keyboard or the gpu ...

 

Nm1, Classic77 has mentioned that with 0.9v the gpu could not work due to blue screen. The maximum undervolting that was successfull was 0.1v.
How did you manage it?

Also, the thermal conductivity of the metal can is much lower than the coopers.
Just get a copper sheet from ebay, its cheep.

 

It would depend on core speed and how good your chip is at working at low voltages, just like in overclocking, every chip is different.

 

Maybe this is the wrong topic, but I hope you are willing to answer my question, since my question is related:

I would like to use a copper shim and thermal paste with my 8600m GT in a 5920g.
Since Acer replaced my faulty videocard with this new one, I have rather high idle gpu temperatures (61c) and I notice the fans turn on more frequently, which is kinda annoying.
Also I didn’t see a thermal pad on the heatsink, so I think there is room for improvement.

Does anybody know what the right thickness of the copper shim for a 8600m GT would be? 20mm x 20mm x 0.??? mm
And can the copper shim just be placed between the gpu core and the heatsink without the need to attach it somewhere?

I don’t have any experience with this, so if anybody can help me with the correct info I would really appreciate it.

 

I'm using 16x16x0.9 mm one.

 

Thanks, but isn't that size being used for the 4650 which has a smaller core?
Shouldn't this one be thinner, since the core of the 8600m gt is bigger?

 

Hello

First of all, I hope I am not intruding by posting unrelated content here. I'll be as quick and brief as possible.

I have an Alienware m5500 with a blown out nvidia 7600Go card. Under recommendation from a fellow alienware user with the same system, I recently installed the HD4650 ( part no VG.M9606.005 from IPC computer). My system now turns on, but cant get it beyond a few seconds from boot. If i turn it on, it stays so for a while then shuts down. If i turn it on again, it stays on for a few seconds less than before. And so on until it finally refuses to turn on at all. After a few minutes of cooling off, the same process repeats.

The heatsink fits the card properly ( i think, as I couldnt find any spot that dint seem to make contact) and I have the original heatpad and a 50mwk pad sitting together between the gpu and heatsink. I've read that its not a good idea to keep two pads, but the 50mwk pad is way too thin (0.5mm) to fill the gap between gpu and heatsink.

I strongly suspect a heat issue, but cant quite figure out where.

Here is a link to the video showing how the system behaves:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N977q8HG6D4

Here are some pics of the heatsink, heatpads and card:











Would be grateful for any advice as I have this dead duck stuck up my a*se for the past 6 months!!

Thanks in advance

 

I had the same problem. You would be suprised how a poor thermal paste job can cause quick overheating or at least thermal readings which will shut the computer off seconds after the windows screen turns on.

I suggest this.

Put alot of thermal compound on, and i mean alot. use non conductive thermal paste and try again.

I had the same issue and its 99 percent likely your thermal paste(not enough)

 

Thermal paste under the GPU or CPU?

Thank you

 

I think this is because of overheating,m as somewhere tere should be a gap that is not visible to you.
Are you sure the heatpad make total contact with the core of the gpu?
I would suggest to try with some copper, something we did in our acers because of the short core of the ati's gpu in contrary with the nvidia's one.
Get rid of the heatpads and put a piece of copper and use arctic silver instead of heatpads.
Put the paste on both sides of its contact area.
Maybe this will solve the problem.

 

@g47 & eazy_e

Thank you very much for the reply. Im going to try what you've suggested, but first need to get some copper shims from ebay. I am assuming that the gpu core makes proper contact with the heatpad; but assumptions aint good enough. So will definitely try the copper.

Another question I had was with regards to the way the heatsink is fixed to the cpu and gpu. My old card had four standoff screws, which helped fix the heatsink properly to the card. The HD4650 doesnt have any, so at the moment the entire heatsink assembly is fixed only at the cpu area. Im guessing that there is no precise contact at the gpu area(although it does 'seem' to fit snugly); this may also be responsible for partial heat transfer. Would it make sense to solder the ati card with the old standoff screws and then fix the heatsink?

Attaching two pics; 1st one shows the standoffs from old card, 2nd one shows how the heatsink is currently fixed at the cpu

 

are u sure that the 4650 is 100% compatible with ur laptop considering the MXM slot in ur laptop?

 

Yes and no. I bought this card under recommendation from someone who has the exact same laptop and replaced his card with the 4650. He mentioned he needed some dremelling to do before the card was a perfect fit, but after that it seems to have worked flawlessly.
Now, my heatsink doesnt look like it needs any dremelling; the only part that might have jutted was the DC coil, but even that seems to be accomodated well within the current heatsink.

I haven't come across any other source that mentions that this card works 100%. But if it isnt, then wont it refuse to even display anything? This one boots up fine for a few seconds, then shuts down. The amount of time it stays on with each consecutive boot reduces, until it finally refuses to boot at all. If you have a look at the vid, perhaps it might explain better.

 

first of all you tried it without the screws? and a Gappad thus without pressure it won't boot as theres no heat transfer.
50wmk is only valid for thin metal based thermal pads used under CPU's
Gappad made of soft silicone and only containing some metal/conducting parts are lower rated, and stacking them raises the thermal resistance very fast.

then this card is indeed a drop in replacement for the m5550 but if you use screws it wont fit it needs to be dremeld and WAY more than a x1900 in mxm-3 format needed, otherwise i won't own more than one heatsink.

1. be careful and use a retention from a HD3650 or any screws from the downside with nuts on them as many people do when using nvidia replacements
2. don't run it stacked with old heatpads or any fraud system as mxm cards die fast and thats why not everyone attemps mxm-upgrades
3.any card that leads to your bios screen with tha splas load on m5550 does boot indeed as it passed the vga init way before, anyone 30sec boot issue?

copper sheet is a good idear if you know how to, but most people don't thus i wont reccomend it as this core is even smaller and adds no protection, compare it to a mxm-3 9650M GS and you will see that it doesn't feature those "yello" sticktape around the core which is KAPTON used for protection against shortage, without that using any liquid conductive is a gamble.

 

I just want to make sure I understand you properly (lol, I am a stickler for terminology)

When you say the machine boots, that would mean it successfully boots into windows (or fails at the loading bar)...is that what you experience? If so, And you actually see an OS, then I would say with 99% confidence its a heat issue.

However, if you are using the term less strictly, and you mean the system doesn't successfully boot, (stops before it gets to the windows loading bar) then the problem could be more complex.

Personally I would venture to guess its not a heat issue. The 4650 isn't a ridiculously hot card, even with poor interface between the card and the heatsink, I would think it would last longer than you are experiencing...and a GPU doesn't usually even fully power until the OS is reached, so again, I find that theory that the card is overheating during the splash screen and POST unlikely.


Other possibilies:

1 - BIOS compatibility issue (what version does your friend have?)

2 - Short...its it possible that those standoff screws prevented a short in the old GPU? What I mean to say is, are those standoffs neccessary to prevent your new card from contacting the heatsink it places where it shouldnt be contacting anything conductive? This may be the cause of your symptoms...

Hope this helps.

 

@Meins321 & classic77

Thank you for the suggestions.

Meins321, I tried it without the screws because I wanted to test whether or not this would work; at least get a display. I dont really understand where you have to dremel to get the heatsink fit properly in case of using standoff screws; the gpu core does seem to touch the copper part of the heatsink fully (even if standoffs were used). Could i ask why you suggest about retention screws? Are they to prevent some sort of shorting?

Classic77, when I meant 'boot', I was referring to the point where the system completes POST and just before reading the mbr, it starts to reboot. The other chap has the same bios version that's on my system, so I dont really think its a bios version conflict. I am more inclined to agree with you regarding the standoffs; perhaps they were there on the 1st card to prevent shorting. I tried to remove them (desolder) from the old card to swap them to the new, but couldnt get them out. Might have to pick them up separately.

Now I dont mean to bore you with all these details, but just to let you know that this system is a Uniwill clone, and according to mxm-upgrade.com they mention about a longer screw that has to be screwed back in, each time when replacing the card. Im guessing this one prevents a short. And I've made sure its always in.

 

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=13297111

760/625 (1250 DDR) 1.2v core.

 

first of all those screws provide pressure on the GPU without the heat transfer is extremly limted, at least on the m5550

@classic
as he said, the laptop boot loops with "some" mxm cards that can be seen most times with HD 3650, that is due to a too high start current with some specific "red" or a rare green hp PCB and can't be solved with different vBios as tried by myself with mxm-upgrade help.
thats why it said that the m5550 is incompatible with hd 3650 when it isn't just a small batch of cards will run in it (with dremeling)
the boot loop on HD 4650 is due to a shortage with the big coil on it as it had to be deep dremeled on my Laptop.
( and FOR Goods sake YES i've got both heatsink the @x1400 ATI one and the @7600Go and they are equal just different serial number!)

and as i posted before without dremeling it won't fit the m5550, and running without screws is gamble to me as heatpads/Gappad don't do a good job then.

As it boots it is clear that it is compatible, just get it mounted right and be careful if you can't acquire a good Gappad made of silicone and conductive [email protected] which i seed as a real DUMBNESS due to the price of the mxm-gpu i would adwise using kapton tape around the GPU and Artic Silver 5 and a proper copper sheet even if it's NOT the way to go

i am running it inside a Alienware m5550-r3i with an T7200 and 4GB ram on 2.07w Bios Windows 7 Pro x64 and it is standing more than strong, compared to my mxm-3 9650M GS with 512MB DDR3 from acer.
cool and fast what do you need more?

[EDIT]
sorry for hijacking this thread as it is about a different laptop model

don't know if it is missing on the mxm-guide but it was there, the "long" screw whichs goes inside the service cover secures the keyboard on the other side as stated by alienware guides to replace ram and google and to my knowledge......
the boot loop is m5550 specific as it show boot splash and hangs at some init stage what no other laptop shows

 

Ok guys, Assassins Creed 2 has been released and this is the moment of truth which I've been waiting for.

Has anybody tried playing AC2 on his/her 5920g with a 2ghz cpu with the ati hd4650?

I'm a bit scared the cpu won't be strong enough (the requirements=2.6ghz core 2 duo dekstop cpu).

Plz respond ^^.

 

I have already tried AC2 with my 5920G.
It runs very smooth with 30-40 fps at everything high, 1280x800 and disabled AA and V-SYNC.

 

4650 is teh win. mine is oc'd to reference 4670 speeds (675 / 800 !) and it's completely stable.. some fan control and it runs oc'd at lower temps than stock clocks..
just wondering, anyone clocked it higher here? wonder if there'd be any worthwhile gain going higher.