***Gigabyte P35X owner's lounge***

It's weird how they managed to nail the 980m GPU temps but faltered with the CPU.

The temps on their own aren't disastrous at all - just need to see how much the CPU throttles down. For example, I'd much rather CPU clockspeeds/temps like this (GS60) than this (X7 Pro)

The key for me would be to see how badly the CPU throttles compared to a GS60 w/970m - and how much it affects gaming performance. I wonder how much an IC Diamond re pasting would delay the throttle?


Cakefish, you are my only hope.

 

Wanted to buy this beast today. OC UK don't ship to my country. who else sells p35x v3 cf1 that you know of?

thanks !
JD

 

CF1 is an Overclockers UK exclusive. Look for the CF4 instead. Exactly the same as CF1 except it has 4710 instead of 4860. Or try the CF3 from scan.co.uk.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

Maybe there will be a Broadwell p35x coming in the early 2015 ?
But will Broadwell be to Haswell what Maxwell is to Kepler in terms of temperature ?

 

Nope. Don't expect any significant improvement in temperature. I would undervolt the CPU, reduce max three and four core CPU speed by 200MHz (i.e. ~ 3.2GHz), and limit FPS (MSI Afterburner or nVidia Inspector) in the games. You will see a *significant* drop in temps in both CPU and GPU. Also yes, a repaste would likely be beneficial too.

I did see the screw head Cakefish is talking about, it's like a square head iirc (can't find the image now)

 

It's the same screw as on the P35W v2. Need to find screwdriver that fits it!

Edit: also, isn't it the integrated FIVR that causes the heat? That won't be fixed until Skylake from what I've heard.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

What do you mean by that "three and four core" ??

 

Cakefish, did you see my earlier question about the CPU performance? I see a few people that are curious about the CPU performance. Can you monitor CPU frequency when gaming & benchmarking to see what kind of turbo the CPU can maintain. I ask this for a couple of reasons really: the physics scores didn't look that great, and the CPU temperatures are quite high. It's all about what frequency the CPU can maintain when you're gaming & benchmarking. And how does it stack up against performance from other 4860HQ's?

 

Cakefish can you do a BF4 benchmark?

 

Isn't that guide a bit outdated, at least the software linked in the startpost?

Thanks

 

Just contacted XMG about an ETA on the P35X. Will hear from them soon.

@Cakefish: Procrastination or not, I nailed the exam today. I now have seas of time to read your review. My body is ready!

 

Please let us know which screwdriver you'll need because my laptop and 2x SSD'S arrive this Thurs.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

Just pre-ordered CF2 on Scan through finance. Too bad I can't buy the CF1 on Overclockers coz I can't find that damn finance button!

Scan's stock is overdue since 03rd Nov. And OCUK has ETA of 14th Nov. Fingers crossed.

Regards

 

@Cakefish: Try disabling Turboboost and attempt some of the benchmarks again to see the FPS and temperature difference. Normally, CPU shouldn't affect GPU-heavy games. To do this, change the "Maximum Processing Power" in your current Battery Options Advance Settings profile. Once set, try the tests again to see how much the two drop.

 

Finance is on the payment screen. For me, it was the bottom left corner if you select payment by Credit/Debit.

 

I have noticed that overclocking the GPU (played around with it briefly last night) brings about power throttling (180W PSU). I will see if undervolting and disabling turbo boost of the CPU will help in this regard.

Half hour left in my lecture (you can tell I'm really paying attention!).

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

It weren't there, all I got was Amazon payment. Could be because I used my Amazon account to log in. Too late to try now, though.

Regards

 

Ah, might be worth seeing if you can buy a power adapter with increased wattage if you find out your GPU doesn't overheat when overclocked. Good idea about restricting the power to the CPU to test out GPU overclocking though, but don't know how much extra power you can get from doing that, maybe 10W at a guess. Oh, and how does your CPU behave when gaming and benchmarking, what turbo frequency can it maintain? (I asked this a few times now, I won't keep bugging you about it, but want to make sure you've seen my question!)

 

I've seen it, I'll check when I get back from my lecture.

The laptop had 3% wear level in hwmonitor when first booted up. It then very quickly went up to 4%. It didn't change thereafter. Should I be worried? What is the best way to take care of the battery?

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

On a totally separate side note, jesus Robbo, how does one overclock the refresh rate of an LCD monitor?

 

Yes it's cause you login with your Amazon account. I made the same mistake and paid by visa card through Amazon Payments (AP) instead of waiting to use my Visa card directly.

Refunds through AP and transfers to your bank takes forever if the amount is over a certain amount. Which sucks if you're waiting for those funds to buy something else.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

Would finding a power adapter that is 200W+ with a connector that fits the P35X be easy?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

Very Very Carefully!

 

Wear level gets calibrated when you fully discharge & recharge your battery, so it's not like you've been wearing your battery out, it's just calibrating. The best way to preserve long term life in Li-on batteries is to not fully discharge them, and not to keep them at their 100% charged level, and also don't keep them hot. Heat & high charge level (typically the environment when used plugged in on AC adapter) will decrease the life of the battery. If you can bothered keep the battery at about 40-60% charge level, if you can turn off battery charging in the BIOS (like you can in the M17xR3). Also, use your battery every month or so rather than just using it on AC adapter all the time.

 

This only works on laptops that have Optimus disabled. You go into the NVidia Control Panel and create a 'Custom Resolution', then you just enter the refresh rate you want and it checks whether the display can work at that setting. When it's not stable you get a black screen and it reverts to previous stable setting. Then you check your stable monitor overclock for frame skipping, I used a test on Blur Busters website & a standard digital camera to check for frame skipping. 78Hz was the max I could achieve, black screen at 79Hz. It's supposed to be a safe thing to do for monitors, I've had it like this for over a year now.

 

In some other thread here when discussing apparently too weak power supplies somebody made a point that getting a new power supply with higher wattage wouldn't really help because it's notebook's EC (embedded controller?) that's limiting how much power a notebook will draw.

So if manufacturer supplies just 180 watt PSU with a notebook, they will program notebook's circuitry to suck only 180 watts before starting throttling. If you get let's say 200 watt PSU, notebook would then still throttle at 180 watts.

Not sure how easy is to change those limits, probably will need BIOS tweaks?

 

I think it depends on the model of the laptop. When I had a Dell M1530 with a heavy GPU overclock I bought a 130W adapter for it (stock adapter was 90W), and the power wasn't limited by the motherboard, but it is true that some laptops are limited in how much power can be used by their 'motherboard'. Also, sometimes using a non-standard power adapter can result in problems such as battery will not charge when connected through that adapter. (Other laptops like the M18xR1/R2 aren't limited by the motherboard either, whereas apparently the A18 is).

 

Will the 4710 provide cooler cpu temps?

 

^^ Not likely they have the same 47W TDP. Btw I don't get why people are so worried about CPU temps, 90C is acceptable inside a thin form factor, you won't get any better than that (unless like Aorus, you down clock the CPU at 70C which is crazy )

Important question is, does it down clock at 90C to keep these temps, or this is the utmost max without any throttling?

 

Freedom! Walking (really really fast) back home now...

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

If I wasn't going to work right now and lived near you. I would offer to pick and deliver you to your residence.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

That's right, that's why I've been asking Cakefish to monitor what the stable Turbo frequencies it can maintain during gaming & benchmarking - problem is that manufacturers can set a temperature limit at which point the CPU throttles even if the CPU itself is designed for 100 degC, but to be honest 100degC is not really very healthy for the other components in close proximity! (And it could also throttle due to power limitations or restrictions - a possibility when talking about 980M, i7 CPU, and 180W power adapter).

 

Then take take the laptop by force?

Regards

 

I'm now torn between the p35x cf1 and the GS60 3k, I'm hoping today's benchmarks will sway it. Really like the keyboard gs60, but the GPU on the p35x is better and its temps are good. If cpu doesn't throttle too badly and stays in low 90 or below I will go for the gigabyte.

 

Either way, will be able to run plenty of virtual machines and FM 2015 should run well

 

Not that I don't like FM (I love FM franchise since its early days of CM), but you can run FM on a potato sack, no need for a high end graphics card

 

How do I pull the cable out? Without damaging it?

Spoiler

 

Very true. I do enjoy fps too and will be nice to go back to keyboard and mouse again after gaming only on Xbox for the last 4 or 5 years.

 

Can the power draw be monitored some way?

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

Disconnect it if you can find the connector, or pull the cable out of the groove (there's usually grooves to arrange the cable).

Regards

 

Can you take the picture a bit from a distance as well too bro? I am not understanding if its the backplate or a fan (or something wildly different )?

 

The white bit needs to be disconnected from the back bit:

Skip to 15:30

 

The white bit is the connector, you'll need to cut thr red tape (stripe on the white), then use a pair of tweezers or small flat head screwdriver to wedge-and-pry the connector.

Regards

 

Since you got the back out, which screwdriver # was needed for one of the square screws you were talking about earlier?

 

How the heck Do you cut something that is flush to the white bit?

 

You cannot remove the white connector, pull the black bit gently. DO NOT PULL THE WIRE!

 

SORRY I was mistaken. I thought the white bit is the socket and connector, turns out the white bit is the socket, and the black bit is the connector. So pinch the black bit and wiggle it out (I would't pull the cable since you never know how fragile they are).

Regards

 

I always use a flat head screwdriver to remove this sort of pins. Just put it under the head and gently lift it.

 

Finally, it came off. Good lord, that was difficult. Felt like I was going to break it

Definitely don't want to be doing this too often. OK, time for pics...

 

Here's hi res photo of the P35 V2.

http://www.illegear.com/materials/p35internal.jpg