*** OFFICIAL GIGABYTE AERO 15 OWNERS LOUNGE ***

You're probably used to a cooler setting. I was the same as well. I basically forced myself to use 6500K on my Aero 14 to get used to it. The Pantone temperature is pretty close to that as well, and works better for the 15's screen.

 

I registered just to join this thread.

Received my Aero15 3 days ago, purchased on Amazon for $1699. I ordered it because of reviews that were saying how accurate the screen is, etc. I was very disappointed with the actual product.

1. The display is downright bad compared to the years-old laptop I was hoping to replace with this one. The backlight bleed issue alone is awful... Plus it's got a very narrow viewing angle "sweet spot". I've checked and it is that Chi Mei "Unknown Model: CMN15D7" manufactured in late 2015. Guess they had to clear out a storeroom full of these things and thought "hey, rather than toss these like we should, let's slap 'em in the Aero 15"
2. Keyboard issue - never have I encountered this before the Aero 15. Ctrl+Shift+Down registers as Ctrl+Shift+Up. Ctrl+Shift+Space registers as Ctrl+Shift+B. There are some combinations of two modifiers that only work with one row (one third of the alphabet). I use Pro Tools, which has a great number of key commands that I cannot use if I were to keep this thing.
   
3. The reviews I read mentioned the Aero 15 being shipped with a Samsung SSD. Mine was shipped with a Crucial SSD that costs half as much. Fine, this isn't a dealbreaker, but it shows that they started cutting corners.

1 and 2 are each deal-breakers on their own, and there's two of them! I'm returning this thing and will look elsewhere, even though it will probably cost me considerably more.

I am happy with the size and weight of this. The fan noise is respectable - not great, but certainly not bad either.

 

Did either of you figure out the problem? I just got my laptop, updated to Creators, and now I'm getting BSODs with the same error. I'm on the gigabyte nvidia drivers (382.66) and bios FB09. Going to try going with latest nvidia drivers.

 

Got mine from GenTechPC last week, liking it so far!

Got a few questions (minor annoyances, really), maybe some of you know the answers?

1. Is there any way to control the fan between 0% (Quiet Mode in SMv3) and 30%? It would be great if the laptop could actually go quiet (or at least below 30%) on its own, without having to switch the mode manually.

2. I don't quite understand the colour controls in SMv3. The "X-Rite Pantone Color" button is always lit - when I press it, it goes grey for a split second and then lights up blue again. What I've noticed is that pressing it always resets the Smart Color setting next to it to 6800K. Then when I pick a setting in the Smart Color section (say, Native Color), the display actually changes colour, but "X-Rite Pantone Color" stays lit. Is it just a quirk of the SMv3 interface, or am I missing something?

3. Do your fans have a slightly "buzzing" characteristic when the laptop is resting on a hard surface (desk)? It's almost inaudible on 30%, but I can hear it (rather than just a quiet "woosh") in a quiet room. When they spin up, there's still something odd about their sound - it's not a straight "woosh", but rather with some buzzing/rustling undertones. Normal? It's not a huge deal, but I wouldn't want it to deteriorate over time.

4. When I kill the fans (Quiet Mode), there's still a very faint noise coming out of the laptop. It sounds similar to a working HDD (uneven "chirping"), although much quieter. Is it just electrical noise of some sort? Is there any way to get rid of it?

 

1 - In SMv3 under fan controls, there's a setting for "Deep Control" that allows you to modify the fan curve. Maybe you can get it to work the way you want.

2 - That definitely seems like a bug. I get the latter part of that (turning on the computer with X-Rite enabled sets the smart colour to native even though it's not enabled).

3 - I haven't noticed that on my unit. Maybe your fans aren't seated properly.

4 - It could be coil whine, or it could actually be the fans running. Quiet mode still runs the fans when the temps go up a bit. To be sure, set it on quiet mode, then go into smart dashboard in smart manager and see if the fans have any RPM value. If so, then it's the fans. Else it might be something else.

 

Nah, not really. You can draw the curve as if it goes smoothly from 0 to 30%, but in reality it's a sharp jump from 0 to 30% once you hit the 2nd temperature point.

I'd imagine it would require a modified BIOS or something... Way above my league.

 

Yeah, unfortunately there aren't many modified BIOS for laptops. Unfortunately the minimum the fan can do is 30% when it's turned on. I had the same issue with my old MSI laptop where the least it could do while turned on was around 2700RPM which was kind of annoying.

 

Hello,

I'm having wifi connection issues when waking from sleep.. Wifi just never seems to reconnect (even with my settings set to connect automatically); I usually have to go manually disconnect the connection and reconnect to my home wifi network for it to get going (and even then, it might take a minute or so before I can load a web page).

I have tried updating the Intel ProSet driver, but that caused seemingly more problems, so I am back to the official version I believe (that said, the smart update shows the official version at 19.70.0.5, but it only lets me install 19.50.1.6... Attempting to download 19.70.0.5 doesn't seem to do anything and keeps me at 19.50.1.6. When I went to Intel directly to get Proset in the 20.x version, it just was more flakey.. anyways, probably too much information)

Thanks for any tips if anyone has overcome something similar

 

Have you tested with a different router? My old laptop would do that with my previous router, but different routers were mostly fine. Certain wireless cards just seem to hate certain routers, and vice versa.

 

Hey there, Fellas. I have a quick question for those of you with Aero 15 and with the latest version of Smart Manager. Could you please check your maximum processor frequency settings in the Balanced power scheme? Is it just me or Smart Manager now forces the maximum frequency not to exceed 2800 GHz?

screenshot:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Wyow_UNn7Sy2MrMj0DvaBXtcmrNEQWYl

 

I actually don't see the frequency option on mine. Only min and max state....

 

Has it also broken your 'Smart Update'?

 

Hey, thanks for your reply. Are you on Windows 10 Fall 2017 Creators update?

 

Yeah, I am.

 

Ah, same happened to me. I've noticed the frequency option was not there after updating to the latest creators update. I rolled back due to some compatibility issues. Thanks for checking.

Still not sure if I've messed something up or smart manager is forcing this restriction due to some overheating issues. I've noticed that if I remove smart manager from startup, I can change these settings. But if the smart manager is enabled on startup, it always brings it back to 2800 MHz for me. This does not affect any other settings. Weird.

 

Which fan mode do you have on? Maybe quiet mode is messing with something?

 

Hi folks

I joined this forum for this thread. I read all 157 pages and I will now share with you my homework. On what to know/check about this laptop.

here it goes


Battery life. 5h 20% brightness. Light work.
Scratched screen?
External monitor all ok?
Backlight bleed? Black bckg. White bckg??
Coil whine?
Half closed lid to sleep?
Dead pixels?
All keys in keyboard working fine?
Temp idle cpu50 gpu40
Gaming 90 and 80.
Low 80s is good.
Crashing software?
Boot time under 10 seconds for sure.
If I place any amount of pressure on certain parts of the laptop (left of trackpad, or underneath on the left hand side) the keyboard cuts out and reconnects a moment later.

Create a recovery USB before doing anything like fresh win install.

The screen is not IPS. It is the Chimei WVA N156HCA-EA1 AAS screen.

New beta BIOS FB09 / F007.

As for bloat, I decided to avoid a fresh Win10 install to keep the Pantone calibration. So I uninstalled the screen casting software, dolby software, the realtek lan optimizer and a few others but kept most gigabyte applications.

turn off hardware acceleration, but that puts quite the load on the CPU,

I've improved from 88°C max on the CPU to 79°C max with a -0.135mV undervolt. Lower voltages are unstable.
I would say your temps are normal. But this processor gen really benefits from undervolting... Almost a requirement

Howto undervolt
https://www.notebookcheck.net/How-t...ife-The-ThrottleStop-Guide-2017.213140.0.html

-145 was stable in Prime 95 for 30 min but froze when I was testing with PUBG. So I set it to -135mV and it has been happy ever since. If any instability appears I'll just go to -125.
The temperatures at -165mV in Prime 95 were 77°C max and with -135mV are 79°C max, but your mileage might vary according to room temperature and other variables.

Use Hwmonitor for temps

- does a clean install remove the Pantone calibration? Do i need to backup something that cannot be downloaded from Gigabyte's site?
-
lemegetin said: ↑
Yes, I would back up the color profile from C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color

. adjusting the brightness using the function, I managed to fix it after installing the latest Smart Manager Driver

I believe GGG_CMN15D7 is the pantone calibration profile. IIRC the last 7 characters are found in the Innolux panel's identification string (which you can see with hardware inspection software like aida.

For example you could install a profile with:
Desktop right click -> display settings -> advanced display settings -> color management -> Add...

Try updating the firmware by going to Gigabyte Fusion and click on the gear button in the upper right hand corner.
See if that fixes your keyboard issues.


emptyproject11.exe is causing it to be active
you need to update your smart manager, and also kill that file. It just wasted battery life.

update Fusion and Smart Manager

Can anyone else confirm if they need to press a bit harder on certain keys please. The easiest test is to run fusion and use the "fade on key press" colour preset.

You can use CPU-Z to look at the memory make / model, here's an example:
You can download CPU-Z here:
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Better to disconnect the camera / mic from USB internally and put a happy face sticker over the hole

trackpad
I immediately looked for the most recent Elan Touchpad drivers that use Microsoft's Precision API. I ended up downloading these:
http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/downloads/ds120858
You will want to extract them to a folder. Then open "Device Manager", Right Click the Elan Touchpad, Update Driver, Browse My Computer, Let Me Pick, Have Disk, Browse to where you extracted the driver, use "ETD.inf"
When you are done, it will say: "Elan Input Device for WDF"
Its way better than the original touchpad drivers. Also you get to use all the gestures in Windows 10 now too.
I assumed that to properly install this driver including all components, one has to run "Setup.exe". However, out of the box "Setup.exe" refuses to start on the Aero 15. I had to set "CheckHWID=0" in "Setup.ini" to make it run and install the driver.

I experienced the exact same issues 3-4 a day, however, did a clean install and didn't update to the Creators Update and I haven't had one BSOD yet. I also left the NVIDIA Drivers at the recommended 376.67

who don't like Smart Manager UI.
Best acceptable solution/compromise for the Smart Manger Ugly UI.
Do the following in order to "remove" the ugly as hell OSD from Smart Manager.
1. Ensure Smart Manager task isn't running. (kill it will the task manager)
2. Navigate to: "C:\Program Files\SmartManagerV3\OSD "
3. Copy file: IsMetroUI.dll to the Skin directory.
4. Rename: OSD_Skin.dll to something like: OSD_Skin.dll_backup
5. Rename: IsMetroUI.dll to: OSD_Skin.dll
6. Start Smart Manager
If you simply just delete the skin dll file it will throw errors so thats why we replace with this other and seems to not complain.
The compromise is that the application and FN key combos still work but without the vomit inducing Gigabyte Windows Vista OSD being displayed.
You still get volume OSD, just not the brightness or other toggles on screen.

the Aero 15 has the worst idle energy consumption. 9,7W in idle, twice as much as the XPS 15.

I updated the Gigabyte Smart Manager software to the latest version, based on a tip earlier in this thread, and that has fixed my battery life.

I read somewhere that backlight bleed can be solved by turning on adaptive/automatic brightness

Poor batt life
Can you go to the task manager and see if a program called "emptyproject11.exe" is running? If it is, you need to update your Smart Manager, as that executable keeps the dGPU on by default at all times.
The new Smart Manager versions no longer start up that exe

When your laptop is asleep or off, if you press down on right click, right next to the battery icon on your trackpad, the LED indicator lights on the front edge of... Pro . i7-7700HQ, GTX 1050 / GTX 1050 Ti . Coming in August?, 3 LEDs = medium battery, etc.

As for bloatware, you don’t need to format and reinstall windows, just go into the control panel and remove what you don’t need. I uninstalled cyberlink power dvd, all the camera software, xsplit gamecaster and lan optimizer for bzx.

https://www.geforce.com/geforce-experience/download
GeForce Experience 3.9.0 Release Highlights

Downloads with Smart Update are terribly slow. It's faster when downloading from the product support page and selecting the FTP in your region.
But Smart Update is the only way to get the newest drivers as soon as they get released. The product support page is updated a few days later.

Trackpad sucks
Try this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...15-owners-lounge.804575/page-47#post-10547809

RE the Chrome black screen issue, I'm getting that too, and disabling hardware acceleration fixes that issue.
In Chrome Settings find "System" and then uncheck "Use Hardware Acceleration where available"

If your having issues with your Wifi disconnecting regularly (every 5-10 mins)
Uninstalling Drivers
https://communities.intel.com/thread/2379
solved by: Paul DeYoung
Aero 15 Gigabyte Official Drivers
http://www.gigabyte.us/Laptop/AERO-15#support-dl
Enable Group Policy for Windows 10 Home
https://www.itechtics.com/easily-enable-group-policy-editor-gpedit-msc-in-windows-10-home-edition/
Disabling Windows 10 Auto Update Driver
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc730606(v=ws.10).aspx

For those who may not have noticed it, you can use the USB port built-in to the power brick even when the notebook is off or hibernating.

Change your User account control setting to "Never Notify" and it wont bother you anymore

Cant adjust brightness
Revert to an older intel graphics driver. If you go to device manager > display adapters > Intel 630 > Driver, you should have an option to roll back driver. Alternately you can re-download the intel driver from smart update.

Also, try disabling geforce experience, I've heard it reduces performance for some reason

Fix trackpad yt video.link at
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-gigabyte-aero-15-owners-lounge.804575/page-142

For people who encounter micro-stuttering on Youtube with Firefox and iGPU, it looks like the latest Windows Fall Creators Update (1709) fixed the issue in my case. I'm happy!

To reinstall the precision touchpad drivers, I downloaded the driver as described in this older post , but this time followed the steps described in this video tutorial :
1. After downloading, run the .exe to extract the driver to, e.g., C:\DRIVERS\WIN\UNAV
2. Open Device Manager als Administrator
Then
-> Find "Mice and other pointing devices"
-> Right click "Elan Input Device"
-> Click "Update Driver"
-> Click "Browse my computer"
-> Click "Let me pick from a list"
-> Click "Have disk"
-> Click "Browse", go to the directory given above and select "ETD.inf"
-> Click "Open"
-> Click "OK"
-> Select "ELAN Input Device For WDF"
-> Click "Next"
-> Acknowledge the warning
-> Acknowledge reboot request.
After rebooting, Windows Settings -> Touchpad should state that there's a precision touchpad installed.
om Here http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-gigabyte-aero-15-owners-lounge.804575/page-148

external display you need to restart the computer after connecting it by an HDMI. in the first connection to an external monitor the laptop display will be ultra slow, but after restarting with the laptop already connected it will run smoothly.

 

HOWEVER. I decided against buying this 2300€ laptop(Im in EU). After reading all this getting this thing is just asking for trouble.

I need a laptop that is good for sound, photo and video editing. Nothing else. No gaming. No surfing. for sound I got external usb soundcard. I will have 4k footage, but I would go for a 15" screen for portability, hence FHD resolution is better. So I wont edit 4k directly. I would like to...but xps15 4k is a bit problematic no? And the screen size is too small for 4k?

Requirements are good screen, accurate colours, reliable, to be able to get the job done, portable in terms of weight. And no known horror problems that might get in the way of getting my job done.

So, please, any suggestions for alternatives?


from here i heard about:

Asus GL502VS 1070

- Clevo P950HP6 . i7-7700HQ, GTX 1060. From $1384.

- Dell XPS 9560. i5-7300HQ/i7-7700HQ, GTX 1050. From $1199.

- Asus UX550 ZenBook Pro . i7-7700HQ, GTX 1050 / GTX 1050 Ti . Coming in August?

...
And I know that xps15 aint a charm either.

Anything else out there? Suggestions?

Price not more then aero15. Less is fine ofcourse.

 

Hi Guys. I noticed that my Aero 15 keeps getting the BSOD - power_state_failure. I've already turned off power manage ment or set to max performance of:
Wireless
PCIE
USB

But I still get BSOD. It seems to be more prominent when I stream videos.

Any suggestions?

 

I have asked dbrand from their official web. There is an option to request future skins for other products, so go there and request it! Maybe if all of us in these thread do that they will consider it!

 

I sent them a message (even though I don't own a aero yet...)

 

I keep it in Gaming mode. I'll try fresh windows install sometime soon to see if I messed something up perhaps.

 

The 2.8 GHz max frequency in "Balanced" power profile seems to be the default, and not a result of anything you did. I am seeing the same thing here - and even if I change it, the "Balanced" profile reverts back after a restart.

A reviewer noticed the same thing, with some extra info:

Turns out the non-clean install of Windows 10 also extends to power profiles. By default, Gigabyte limits CPU frequency to 2.8GHz (down from 3.8GHz) when using the balanced profile, and this is further limited to 50 per cent when running on battery. Such shenanigans bode well for battery benchmarks, but the 1.4GHz top-speed explains why our PiFast score tumbled to a woeful 47.4 seconds when away from the mains.​

My solution was to create two profiles of my own - one for performance, one for battery saving. I also created start menu shortcuts to enable them (each leads to a CMD file that switches the power plan and displays a timed dialog on screen). Later in the day I can post instructions on how to do that, if you'd like.

 

Hey, thank you for checking! I get exactly what you described. I did a clean install as soon as I received the laptop, but noticed that this restriction is specifically enforced by smart manager. If it is disabled from startup, it will not overwrite the balanced profile. I just wanted to make sure it was not my mess-up and that is the proper behavior. Thanks for confirming!

No problem, I know how to write the batch scripts you suggested. I actually do not mind this restriction since my laptop goes above 90C and starts throttling heavily when playing certain games, even after re-pasting.

Thanks!

 

I don't experience that at all. I ran a bunch of Prime95 stress tests, Unigine Heaven benchmarks, and 3DMark "time spy" benchmarks. I did find out that setting the fan profile to "quiet" throttles the GPU by a lot.

If you're comfortable under-volting the CPU, give it a shot. An offset of -125 mV did the trick for me, reduced load temps by 9 degrees (from 77° C down to 68° C) with no drop in performance. Of course, this may be an exercise in diminishing returns for gaming temps, since they would be largely determined by the GPU temperature. But every little bit helps!

Edit: Intel XTU is what I used to undervolt. After starting with a conservative -100 mV and nudging further between successful stress tests, I settled on -125 mV. I was able to go lower but strangely enough temps started to increase. For example, -140 mV resulted in the CPU load temp of 71°, which is hotter by 3° than what I got at -125 mV. Which makes no sense to me, but whatever.

 

Yes, you're right. I'm already undervolting at -135 mV. Works stable for me. My issue is the CPU throttling. I am running Assassin's Creed Origins, and the CPU temp climbs up to 90s range very quickly with 80-100% CPU utilization. The 2800 MHz restriction and undervolting help keeping it in the 80s range.

Thanks!

 

I'll try running some more 3Dmark benchmarks tonight and report back with my CPU temps when both CPU and GPU are under sustained load. I don't remember them hitting as high as you're experiencing, but I can't recall specifics.

 

Thanks! Appreciate the help.

 

OK MetaRvB I was really curious for myself, as well as wanting to help you diagnose. So I went ahead and ran Unigine Heaven and Prime95 simultaneously, for ten minutes..

I'm sure this isn't very scientific, but it pegged CPU and GPU usage at 100% (except for some scenes where GPU Usage dropped to high 60s for several seconds). IMO this is a decent approximation of the most demanding video game you can run.

Results:

• CPU package Max temp 85° C (cores at 84, 83, 85, and 84 respectively). It was 80° max for the first 3 minutes or so, then climbed to 85° by the 6 minute mark and stayed there.
• GPU max temp 78° C. I didn't pay attention to how it behaved over time, more focused on CPU.
• Fans on "gaming" mode didn't even kick on maximum - By comparing the noise level to Smart Manager static mode, I'd estimate they maxed out at 65%
• Power profile used has 0 MHz max processing frequency, i.e. unlimited. Also has 100% max CPU usage

Here's a screenshot if you'd like more info from HWMonitor: https://i.imgur.com/7j4VzBl.jpg

Additional note: I'm currently using a compact laptop stand that allows a bit more room for the intake fans to do their thing. I'm actually very happy with it. Google steklo x-stand if you feel like it's something that might help your CPU temp situation.

 

@AresHarvest I would definitely be interested in that tutorial on the CMD files for power plans if you don't mind.

@MetaRvB For additional temperature comparisons I've got max temps listed on several consecutive benchmark runs when stock vs overclocked in the link in my sig.

It is a little odd that there seem to be quite wildly varying thermal performances for owners with this laptop.

 

Do you have a laptop stand for better airflow? I seem to be getting a max of 84C when my laptop has some ventilation vs the 89C I get on a flat surface at load.

EDIT: Nvm, you didn't have your laptop raised. In that case, you've got great thermals. I did a LM repaste too, but my temperatures have been pretty much the same as with the stock thermal paste (with and without load GPU at 55C/89C).
If it's alright, could you send me pictures of your heatsink and how everything looks underneath the heatpipes? Something felt off when I opened mine up and just want to be sure.

 

@AresHarvest, thanks for running the tests. Your thermals looks pretty good. The stand is very cool. I might give it a try.

@CedricFP, as some other users have mentioned, perhaps this also depends on the room temperature. Mine is usually around 22C. Perhaps it needs to be cooler.

@HussainQ, yeah, no stand. If this in fact makes such a difference, I will most likely give it a try. Also, from experience, it is not a good idea to lift the heatsink unless you are re-pasting. I would prefer not to break the thermal seal at this point, sorry.

Here is a picture I have found on the net:
https://www.notebookcheck.net/fileadmin/_processed_/f/b/csm_20170505_145050_a2e37bc8af.jpg

Perhaps this helps?

Also, for all the users who have been asking about the native X-Rite Pantone Calibration file, I've found out that you can get it from Gigabyte by using their calibration app from the Smart Update

screenshot:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xLrB0DzS9lirTOw34q1qR1h2Moc_Lsn2/view?usp=sharing

It could be old news, but just in case somebody has missed it.

 

Thanks MetaRvB, that's exactly how mine looked. I expected there to be thermal pads instead of the squares of thermal paste. In that case, I can't blame that for my higher thermals.

 

Hey guys,

Just bought my aero 15x yesterday, and it came in with the "a" key of the keyboard half broken. If I press the lower part of the key, it stays stuck, you then have to wiggle it with your finger so it springs back up.

I could send it back; problem is, I got it from a reseller who got it from a wholesale warehouse, and there was only one left when I bought it. All other stores were out too, because of black friday + approaching christmas. Plus, the delay seems not worth it.

So my questions are:
1) does anyone have a link to the Aero 14/15/15x service manual? The one that tells how to disassemble it.
2) Has anyone removed keys from their 14/15/15x keyboard yet? I see it's chiclet type, I've played with Dell keys before (you just pull them from a specific angle to remove them, press them back in to clip them back), but I'd like to be sure this will work on my 15x before pulling the A key out and trying to fix it

Thanks a bunch!

 

Yeah I removed some keys on my 15. They're like any other chiclet keyboard. Be gentle though. On mine, I noticed that some of the keyboard keys had the scissor switch mechanism installed slightly crooked, but not to the point where keys would get stuck... Good luck d00d.

 

So I just bought and got my new Aero 15 and I ran into a couple of issues.

1.) Some keyboard keys were wonky unresponsive. Sometimes when pressing 'o', 'h', 'i', and '9' on numpad, the keys either don't register or make double to multiple inputs. I don't know what to make of this should I send it in?

2.) When watching videos, it looks like the color profile changes. Like, the colors just change from warmer to cooler when a guy i'm watching looks from left to right. I checked with the same video on a different screen and confirmed it was not part of the video editing. Also happens on youtube, there is a color difference from when the play bar is hidden and not hidden.

So I'm pretty sure that 1.) is a hardware issue, but does anyone have the same issue with 2.)?

Thanks guys.

 

Thanks goastie! Just removed it (as a note for the future: unclip the upper corners first, then slide it to the front, towards the screen, to free the bottom two), it was indeed the two rectangular plastic frames below the key (the ones that hold it in place) that should not have passed the quality check. Their dimensions were on the limit of touching, and because of some bending of the plastic, the lower parts of both frames did touch and "grind" on each other, and that was what was responsible for the "squeaky" sound when the key was pressed, up to the point where the key would get stuck in pressed mode.

I took the tiny frames out, used a file to remove the few tenths of mm that were in the way on the lower frame, put them back in and voilà: fully functional keyboard!

Weird that Gigabyte would use such low end techniques to manufacture such a high end laptop but whatever - should anyone stumble on the stuck key problem, it's easy to solve!

Regarding your issues:
1) weird. Have you tried removing the keys and pressing on the rubber thingy below directly to see whether this produces more stable results?
2) not sure what you mean: you mean if you move your head to the right (looking at the screen from an angle), the colors become colder?

 

1.) Yeah, I removed the keys and played with the rubber thing and it seems to produce same/worse results. I feel like it has something to do with the contacts inside, which I have no idea how to fix other than sending it in and hoping for the best. When I first turned on the laptop those keys straight up weren't responding, so I don't know it it'll get better over time but eh... Sad to see on such a premium product, but meh...

2.) The head turning I was referring to the guy talking in a video lol. When looking at the screen straight on, I notice the monitor doing some color shifting while watching videos. At first I thought that there was some weird color grading editing going on in the video, but it didn't happen on a different monitor. What was confusing was how consistent it was on the Aero 15's screen.
If you have Netflix, I really noticed this in the first few seconds of "Jim & Andy: The Great Beyond" (interesting documentary btw) where it seemed like the color profile would just shifted whenever Jim Carrey looked a different direction.
I haven't tried deleting other color profiles aside from the X-rite one yet though, that might be a solution...

 

1. Open a command prompt, type in powercfg –list
2. Open a text editor and type in powercfg -setactive [enter GUID of a power plan here]
3. On the next line of the text file, paste mshta "javascript:var sh=new ActiveXObject( 'WScript.Shell' ); sh.Popup( 'set to [Power plan name here]', 1, 'Active Power Plan', 64 );close()"
4. Save the file and change the extension to .cmd, move the file wherever (I put mine in Documents\Power_Plan)
5. Place a shortcut of the file in \AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs
6. Open the start menu, the file should be listed on the left under "recent". Right click the shortcut and pin to start
7. Optional - go to file properties for the shortcut, change icon (you can use the power icons are located here C:\Windows\System32\powercpl.dll)

The start menu stuff is a pain, because for some reason shortcuts to CMD files can't be pinned to start in the normal fashion.

For reference, here are the contents of my Performance plan cmd file. You can replace the "1" with however many seconds you want the dialog to remain on screen:

Code:

powercfg -setactive 08c1f0da-68e5-4f4c-b7b8-801d4d98a40c
mshta "javascript:var sh=new ActiveXObject( 'WScript.Shell' ); sh.Popup( 'set to Performance', 1, 'Active Power Plan', 64 );close()"

 

@MetaRvB I feel like we're in the same boat in terms of temperatures. Did you notice the same 2800MHz behavior with the Fall Creators update?

 

Odd question, but how do you change the language in Smart Manager? Mine switched off of English and I can't find a way to change it back.

Thanks.

 

HussainQ,

Do you mean the behavior where smart manager restricts the maximum CPU clock to 2800 MHz? I experienced what you have reported where this option was not even visible anymore in the falls update. But I suspect that the maximum percentage is also reduced to 90%.

On your other question, I haven't seen any language settings anywhere, but I've seen a couple times what other software does is it adjusts depending on your regional/language settings in the OS. Try changing that and reinstalling the app. It might get back to English maybe.

 

Hey, I wanted to add another M.2 , I removed all the screws on the bottom but it won't budge.. I don't wanna break the bottom of the case trying to remove it?

 

The clips are pretty strong. If you have a suction cup, try using that in the middle/towards the edges. My bottom corner did have a little gap for my screwdriver to fit in, so I gave that a tug, then started unclipping from there.

Also, make sure the screw that comes with the SSD fits. The one that came with mine is pretty small, so my new SSD is basically held by the thermal pads I put on top of them, as well as the foam pressing against it.

 

Maaan, this stand is awesome. My temperatures dropped additional 5-7 °C. They are now in the 70s. Thanks for the hint!

 

I'm glad it worked out! I took the chance because it was cheap - I was worried it would turn out to be a piece of junk, but it's great.

The only thing I dislike about it is that the brackets in front are proud of the palm surface of the laptop. One reviewer pointed out that you could mount the stand upside down, so the brackets would point downward. But then two of the legs would partially block the intake vents, and I didn't want to do that.

I had some self-adhesive weatherstripping lying around, left over from when I replaced a door. So I just stuck it to the brackets. A bit of extra cushioning, and it raises the laptop enough for the brackets to no longer stick out. I could have taken more time to make the added cushion look nicer, but I don't care because it works and I'm never going to see it.

Edit: Now I'm thinking about removing the weatherstripping, using black plasti-dip to coat the gray plastic on the front brackets, and then re-applying the weatherstripping. I think that would make it all but disappear, visually.

 

I am a developing my own games using mainly Unreal Engine 4 and Autodesk 3Ds Max; would you recommend the aero15 for programming and 3D modeling? Any other suggestion else? Thank you.

 

Hello everyone.

I just got my Gigabyte Aero 15 a few days ago.

As per recommendation from friends, I decided to format everything with a clean Windows 10 Home install, and removed all partitions. After the fresh Windows was installed, I've downloaded and updated everything that is on the website. But there is a problem now.

Gigabyte Smart Manager doesn't work anymore.

Whenever I try to launch the program, it just makes the screen flicker, and thats it. Quick hotkey such as screen brightness no longer works too.

I am not sure what my options are. If anybody knows how to fix this, please assist me.

Also, the F9 at boot no longer works for factory reset. And its too late to create a backup using Smart USB Backup. Could anyone be kind enough to send me an image file of the Factory Settings if it is possible and if that would solve my problem?

Thank you all so much in advance..

 

Does your smart update start? Which version of the Smart Manager is it showing installed? The latest version should be 7.0.5.
You can also try navigating to C:\Program Files\SmartManagerV3 and starting UnloadSM.exe then launching GBSMV2.exe. This should reload the software. Let me know.

 

I've found myself watching a lot of Dave2D (Dave Lee) videos on youtube. The guy does a lot of quick and very useful laptop reviews as well as mentions if a laptop is good or bad for certain tasks including video editing, modeling, etc. He's how I found out about Aero 15. See if you find his reviews useful.