*** OFFICIAL GIGABYTE AERO 15 OWNERS LOUNGE ***

The smaller charger is for the Aero 15, the bigger charger for the Aero15X.

 

I'm pretty sure he got a smaller charger with the 15X

 

Yeah, I got the smaller one with the first 15X, now the bigger one with the second 15X.

 

After looking around for a while I settled on this sleeve / case from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DZNJ9J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a great case, solidly built and fits the Aero 15 perfectly.

 

I have a random question. I used to own the Aero 14 for a couple of weeks just before Aero 15 was released. I remember in the smart manager for Aero 14 there was an option to enable/disable the always on (charging) USB port when in hibernate or off. This option is not available in Aero 15. I found out it could still be controlled but only through the registry. Anybody knows why this is? Thanks.

PS: the registry key path, in case you'd like to know, is under HKLM\SOFTWARE\GIGABYTE\SmartManager. The keys are called USBChargeHibernation and USBChargeSleep. Please, be careful and modify at your own risk.

 

I would love to know how this works as well. Currently, I can only charge through my USB-C port...

 

This is interesting. After what you've said, I've tried the USB-C port again and it appears to be working for me now without having to mess with the registry. I swear it wasn't working last month. There must have been either a BIOS update or something. I was never able to make the other USB-A ports charge external devices. Thanks for pointing this out!

I can never seem to find the change log for the gigabyte software updates.

 

Hey guys, after 1 month of using my new Aero 15 I recently came up with this problem:
After going on sleep mode the laptop dorsnt boot properly.
I tried to force restart but it was of no help.
The screen and the Gigabyte logo both are off. Although the keyboard and the side light indicators are turned on. Its been 2 days already and I cant boot the laptop so some help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

 

Can you reach bios? F2.

 

Nope the screen looks dead.

 

Ok so after a few tries I was able to reach bios setup with an external monitor. Although the laptop screen is still dead. Anyone has any tip on what should I do next on the bios setup to get control back on the laptop screen?

 

Ok so after a few tries I was able to reach bios setup with an external monitor. Although the laptop screen is still dead. Anyone has any tip on what should I do next on the bios setup to get control back on the laptop screen?

 

Can you boot into windows using the external monitor and try using Windows+P to switch between the external and internal monitors? Just to be sure...

 

Nope I can't do any of the above tasks. On the external monitor after the boot logo appears, if I dont press f2 to enter bios, the screen goes black again without loading windows. And I cant switch to the default monitor.

 

Perhaps Windows does load, but tries to use the internal monitor and not the external monitor. Try the following: power on the laptop and wait for a couple minutes. Then try pressing Windows+P two times and then pressing enter. Let us know if the external monitor starts showing anything.

 

Thing

Things got even worse now I cant even reach bios. After the gigabyte Logo the external screen has started glitching and freezing in black and white. Im desperate.

 

Can you replace the laptop under warranty? Looks like a hardware problem to me.

 

Yes, it's on 2 year global warranty. But it already dropped my expectations. A dream just turned into a nightmare...
Thank you for your help though.
It was much appreciated. Have a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year my friend!

 

No problem, sorry to hear about the laptop. Happy New Year to you too!

 

anyone knows if there's any way to allow Aero 15 to charge while using the laptop?

 

Mind expanding on that question?

 

So I got an update. It was just my hdmi cable that didnt work so, the laptop is working fine on an external monitor it loads windows properly and you can do all the tasks, only the laptop monitor is off (gigabyte logo off too) I also cant switch between external and internal monitor. Do you think that maybe a fresh windows install might help? I can't come up with any other options to try out, but I wanted to go through as many as I can before going throug a warranty return policy.

 

So just peaking at this it seems like either:
1. It's a bad lcd
2. The cable is unplugged

If the lcd doesn't work when posting then it's not a windows issue. I don't know how difficult it would be to open up to check the cable, but may be worth looking into.

 

That would probably void the warranty I guess...

 

It would be odd that just opening the laptop would void the warranty. If that's true about gigabyte you can rest assured I would never buy one...

 

If you don't leave any tracks, they wouldn't know you opened it. There aren't any stickers saying "warranty void if removed".

 

You are both probably right, but I noticed 3 of the screws have some kind of stickers attached to them and if I unscrew them It would be obvious that it was opened. :S

 

Since this procedure is not as trivial as swapping RAM or SSD, and that the panel used to work before, it is better to have it replaced/repaired under warranty.

 

That and the middle screw has a black paint over it, which gets ruined when you unscrew it.

 

Is this a step-by-step of everything you did when receiving the computer? I just got mine and am really impressed but am surprised that you didn’t do a fresh install of windows. I don’t have another Windows product key so it would be an expensive option for me regardless but I’ve heard that it should be standard practice when getting any new windows hardware.

Aside from that I am going to install the precision drivers as soon as I can. Trackpad is bad but not terrible coming from a Mac. Thanks again for the in-depth post!


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True, however, in my case the laptop came with 1 ssd and 1x16 RAM stick, meaning there is room for an additional ssd and RAM stick.

If they were this conservative, they should have soldered all components onto the motherboard with no upgrade options.

@ Cap86, I do not think you will get in trouble by lifting the cover. However, as I said before, doing anything with the panel itself is probably not as trivial as working with SSD and RAM and might require additional knowledge and extra care. This is something you could get in trouble with if you're not sure what you're doing.

 

If you do a clean installation of Windows 10, it will automatically use the license key programmed in BIOS. All you need is Windows 10 installation media which you can get for free from Microsoft. There is no need to buy a new license unless you want to upgrade to Windows 10 Pro.

 

Indeed, now that I've used it for some time, I can see it too: some keys (like the "0" key) can make multiple output when I type them. The "p" just did in "type". It seems quite random, and probably some wrong signal processing in the keyboard hardware or firmware (if there is such a thing). Normally it should resolve such aliases. I am sorry to hear the problem is that intense in your case!

For the screen color, I have no problems here, everything seems fine.

On another note, I do have a big problem with the GTX 1070 Max-Q:
- Yesterday, I discovered I could not watch teaser videos on Steam in full screen, only in window view
- Today, I discovered Solidworks simply does not work. I have a black viewport, no matter whether I try to tell the Nvidia utility to use integrated or discrete graphics. Something in the very existence of the Nvidia driver does not work with Solidworks... I am investigating it right now, and would like to know whether anyone else has had similar problems of black screens in *some* programs with the Max-Q card!

 

Ah, so even if you are creating a new partition on the same SSD to do the clean install of windows, the license programmed into BIOS will work? (because you are technically installing windows again)


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Correct. If you want to double check, there are many utilities that can retrieve the key from BIOS/motherboard. I've used this one on several occasions:

http://neosmart.net/OemKey/

You can keep the key for your records just in case, however, when you install Windows 10 from scratch, you will notice that the installation will not ask for the key or the Win10 edition, because it will be retrieved automatically.

 

Hello everyone,

I read this forum since its creation. Thank you for your feedback and your help, which are valuable.

I received today my AERO 15.

I would like to format the hard drive and make a new installation of the system, before starting to use the computer, so as to have the feeling of appropriating the system and starting on seine bases.

But I have never done this type of manipulation and so I have concerns.

1) How to fully format the hard drive?
2) Can this manipulation affect the BIOS setup?
3) What about the "notion" of UEFI? I do not know what it represents but I know it is mentioned when it comes to reinstalling a system.
4) What are the main effects to be aware of when undertaking this manipulation?
5) Are there any risks?
6) I guess it's not difficult to get a WINDOWS installation?
7) But what about the activation of the license? Is it confirmed that I would not have to worry because the BIOS will do it?
8) As for the calibration of the screen, is it confirmed that SMARTUPDATE will recover it for me?
9) I certainly forget other questions ...

I really need your advice and recommendations, and thank you very much in advance.

 

Thank you for posting this. I didn’t know and it’s super helpful. I’ve never done a clean install of windows. Is there a video walkthrough that you recommend? I’ve looked on YT and there are hundreds but just curious to know if you have a favorite. If not I totally understand.

Also the Gigabyte Smart recovery software, have you used it to do the key change?


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In fact, there are several ways you can re-install windows from scratch. In order to save time and make sure you do not accidentally remove the recovery partition, try using this method:
https://www.howtogeek.com/265054/how-to-easily-reinstall-windows-10-without-the-bloatware/

make sure you have downloaded wireless and lan drivers from Gigabyte just in case before re-installing windows.

Not sure what you mean by the "key change".

 

Hey all, does anyone know how to disable the caps lock enable/disable notifications? They seem to cause lag ingame (CSGO) when I enable/disable caps lock.

 

I did the following, it will disable all gigabyte On Screen notifications.

 

Answers:
1. Do this during the installation of win 10.
2. Reinstalling windows does not change the BIOS, the BIOS settings are stored on the motherboard.
3. UEFI is more or less an updated and more advanced BIOS interface, not really important to understand right now.
4. That there is a possibility that things doesnt work like gigabytes recovery program. And other small gigabyte things that they have put in the OS. (SmartUpdate, SmartManager etc. Will still work.)
5. If you are experienced with computers, installing a new windows 10 is not really risky. However, with less experience things can go wrong. Know what you do during the process helps. Unexpected problems with computers can always appear.
6. These days with windows 10, not at all. Your key is registered on the motherboard and windows can be installed from an USB (8+gb).
7. You shouldn't have to worry about that your key should be unique and saved on your motherboard. When installing windows it should recognize the key and windows version you are allowed to have.
8. For the pantone calibration, you can install the drivers via SmartUpdate and configure it with SmartManager

How to install clean windows on Gigabyte Aero15(X) properly:
1. Get an USB (data will be erased) and plug in a windows system
2. Download the tool and follow the steps, eventually let the tool write to the USB you've plugged in (don't choose to update your current system). https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO
3. After getting the USB ready, plug it in the laptop and boot from it by hitting the F12 key at the booting screen.
4.Follow the installation steps and choose 'Custom, install windows only'.
5. (If you want to keep the official Gigabyte Recovery (for safety) , then keep the 16GB Recovery partition). Delete all (other) the partitions (X)
6.Create a new partiton with the unused space and continue installing windows (windows will make multiple partitions again)
7. After installation windows will boot and you can setup windows.
8. Do all the updates first. You might have to restart Windows multiple times to keep the updates going and complete the installations. But it will get most of the drivers! So, search for updates untill nothing pop's up anymore.
9. You can now download and install the latest SmartUpdate from gigabytes website. I might say that the publisher is unknown, but you can ignore the warning and continue installation(Afterwards restart)
10. Install SmartManager from SmartUpdate (to get the fn keys working etc.)
11. Download directx end runtime to fix errors with SmartManager's dashboard
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/...38-db71-4c1b-bc6a-9b6652cd92a3&displaylang=en
12. Download xrite calibration from SmartUpdate to fix color calibration setting (can be found in the first tab in SmartUpdate, Apps).
13. Install, Gigabyte Fusion, TunderBolt driver, Airplane mode driver and Cardreader driver from SmartUpdate
14. Enjoy your system!
(Little advice; Do not update other drivers with SmartUpdate, don't fix it if it ain't broken) windows will update most of the drivers for you.

Hope this helps and shoot me a message if you need help.

Happy New Year!

 

Thanks for the reply, I'll give this a try.

 

Hi, I want to ask if I can remove all of these stickers.

Is it safe? Cause I don't want to remove important stickers like warranty or license stickers.

 

Yes, you can. Those are there just to advertise the laptops features and hardware.
Definitely keep the ones on the bottom of the laptop, since those have serial numbers etc.

 

If anyone's interested, this is the custom fan curve in SM I've been using for a while now:



In Witcher 3, which is my toughest real-world case, it results in 89-92 deg C under heavy load. The area above the keyboard gets almost scalding hot and there's definitely some throttling going on, but I'm maintaining solid 60 fps and the fans are what I would call almost quiet (laptop audio is fully capable of drowning out the fan noise so that it's no longer noticeable). That's with -125 mV undervolt on the CPU, +200/+500 overclock on the GPU, high performance power profile, liquid metal on both CPU and GPU.

I've tried a steeper curve (+4% increments every 4 degrees) and it keeps temperatures below 85 degrees (and I'm assuming there's much less throttling, although I haven't measured it very much), but I'd rather have less noise and tolerate the higher temps. I'm sure there's some middle ground too - I could try alternating +3 and +4 increments, for example.

 

Any battery tips? I can't seem to get past 6 hours on the balanced profile (with battery savings) on the latest windows, whereas I used to easily get 8 hours (10 with power saving mode which apparently doesn't exist anymore).

This is with a 135mV undervolt on the CPU.

 

Are there still keyboard issues on the Aero 15? I had to return one about half a year ago because keys weren't registering.

 

Have anyone tried upgrading the wireless card of Aero 15 from Intel 8265 to Intel 9260? I wish by doing that I can improve the wireless performance throughput from 866Mbps to 1733Mbps using 802.11AC Wave 2 160MHz. Of course I need to upgrade my router/access point at the same time and I am planning to use Unfi AC Pro HD.

 

I just got my Aero 15 from XOTIC PC (no customization), and after opening it I discovered that it had 1x 16gb GSkill ram (F4-2400C16S-16GRS). All the teardowns of the laptop online had some random green RAM sticks. Does anyone else have gskill ram in their aero? I'm not complaining, just maybe it accounts for the additional 100 bucks compared to other vendors.

 

Single module of Kingston DDR4-2400 16GB (CBD24D4S7D8MB-16) here. Which is a shame because I can't seem to find that model for sale in the wild, and I'd like to upgrade to 32 GB.

I doubt the extra money you paid was for an "upgrade" from Kingston to G-Skill. Does yours have the Samsung NVMe drive? That would be worth a premium charge in my opinion. I paid $1699 for my Aero 15, for reference - came with the above mentioned RAM, and the SSD is a m.2 SATA III model made by Crucial.