The ThrottleStop Guide

Check the CO% when at idle. If you are using speedshift, you can control the max - but note that at idle, the frequency can go to the max for short term tasks - this is actually more efficient than running it at half speed for a longer time. Best, Joe

 

@Jarenga - The Set Multiplier function still works on the 7th Gen and probably the 8th Gen CPUs too. You have to go into the Control Panel and use the Windows High Performance power profile with the Minimum and Maximum processor state set to 100% and SpeedStep has to be enabled. Set Multiplier will not work correctly if you are using the Windows Balanced power profile. ThrottleStop has always worked like this.

Set Multiplier will also not work correctly if you have enabled the Speed Shift function. Speed Shift is a new way to control the multiplier and it has made the Set Multiplier control obsolete. If I was using a 7th Gen 7700HQ, I would use ThrottleStop to enable Speed Shift. I would set the Speed Shift - Energy Performance Preference setting on the main screen to about 80 if I wanted a lower multiplier when the CPU was idle and use an EPP setting of 0 for maximum performance. When Speed Shift is enabled, you should see SST in green on the main screen. As long as you do not have a lot of crap running in the background, modern CPUs will save power when individual cores go into one of the low power C States, preferably C7. Check your C State activity when your laptop is idle with everything closed. In this state, an idle CPU should be spending about 0.5% of its time in the C0 state and your 4 individual cores should each be spending well over 90% of the time in C7. Over 98% in C7 is easily doable.



If a CPU has a task to do, it should definitely not be chugging along at 800 MHz. CPUs are not efficient at this speed and will end up consuming more power because they will have to spend more time awake in the C0 state when they could be sitting in C7. Disconnected from the voltage rail at 0 volts in C7 wins every time. When idle, concentrate more on C State residency time and not MHz.

As always, post some pictures of ThrottleStop if you are still having problems. Without some pictures it is like going to the doctor and I have to pull each one of your fingers to try and find out which one is broken.

 

Welp I have speed shift enabled, so that explains that.

 

Thank you so much for the replies everyone. I will attempt to put the profile on high performance and see if that fixes it as soon as i get back from work!

On a side note i was able to recover my old account so yay for that!

EDIT: Played around with speed shift - EPP It originally had 128 and I didn't think that was changeable. That was stupid on my part. Now that I have changed the values I was able to scale down/up the clocks as I please.

Thank you so much everybody!

 

hello guys, i need some help, i finded out the undervolt trick the other day and saw some tutorials, but since im new at this, can anyone help me? my laptop gets hot a lot, its a toshiba (you already know the toshiba heat) i got an i7 4700MQ, so, im looking for anyone who understands about the undervolt and wich settings should i put on fivr? and what more should i do? i dropped some temperature already but not much, 3-4º i have cpu core and cpu cache at -150, what should i do more? can i raise the voltage? anyone knows whats the best settings for this cpu? thanks a lot

ps: my pc heats a lot, reaches 90º celcius at some games, even at rocket league, i know about the thermal paste and all that ****, i just need to tweak settings and see if i can get out of the 90º at full load, cus at 92 or something starts throttling my cpu, i already have turbo boost off.

 

Undervolt other components like Analog IO and System Agent to -150mV. Uncheck BD PROCHOT to disable firmware level throttling.
Raising the voltage increases the heat output too by a 5% margin or even greater if the HSF cooling isn't optimal.

 

Did you try disabling turbo? that usually lowers temp by about 8 degrees in my experience.

 

Can someone share their undervolt settings for their AW15 R3 7820HK? I'm new to this, and I've only done what NBC wrote in their TS primer.

Here are my settings. Still running on stock paste. I've just started undervolting. What's a good way to know when to stop undervolting (like, can it be noticed through HWiNFO64 or TS itself)?

EDIT: Here's the result.

 

Dont undervolt the Intel GPU instead undervolt everything to same values incl, CPU, cache, system agent and Analog IO to same value, start with -150mV and elevate the back of the laptop for proper airflow.

 

I do not own AW15R3 but my friend does and he was able to do -135mv on his. But as you know even tho you might have two same model CPUs they can still undervolt differently. These new CPUs usually undervolt very well (-120mv to -150mv in some cases). The only way to know when to stop undervolting is by stress testing the cpu for stability. If your system crashes it means that you went too far and you need to dial it back a little bit.

 

Oh crap. I forgot to remember what the original value was for the Intel GPU. Is it 0? I was just following the post over NBC. Why do we not undervolt the Intel GPU?

If you look at the album from my last post, I've updated it. I'm currently undervolting the core and cache at -129.9 mV. I don't know if I'm doing well. I tried tested it for about 30 minutes while playing Dota 2 just to see the performance. I think I'm at around 82°C for the CPU this time. That's a 15°C drop from the last time I tried a similar test.

EDIT: Still gonna rant about how it's hard to get a hold of TG Conductonaut and Fujipoly thermal pads here in Toronto.

 

Yes its zero offset for iGPU. You get major stuttering on Windows 10 if undervolted too high on iGPU, sice Nvidia is my preferred GPU so undervolting iGPU is of no value to me because its just of degree lower than zero offset value.
Get arctic thermal pads which has more value and softer than TG and Fuji, so multiple repaste doesn't require thermal pads to be replaced quite often.

 

Now that you mention Dota 2, why don't you disable turbo? that should save you about 8-10 degrees when playing. you should still be maxing it out with that setting. I have an i7700HQ which is inferior to your processor, and what I do is i disable turbo, check the speedshif-EPP box and set the number to 180 when I play dota 2. I still maintain the framerate but my CPU maxes at 65 degrees instead of about 80ish if i play with turbo on and no speedshift. Give that a try!

 

I’ll look into thermal pad alternatives. Can you simplify the reason why NBC wanted to do a small undervolting of the Intel GPU? I’m trying to make sense of their logic.

What does it do again when you disable it? I know that the greater Speed Shift, it seems like the harder the CPU works (I can’t quite contextualize it, but that’s somehow the gist of what I initially learned).

I might just make a profile like that when I know more intuitively about what things do with TS depending on what game/proccess I’m using. I know that some games are either CPU or GPU-intensive likewise the top games probably do both. I have yet to find a list like that which is why I’m undervolting in general at the moment.

 

Got my Inspiron with the i7 8550u zero throttling issues as it gets to ~75c under full load (max is 98C) it does hit the temp limit while running at 3.8ghz as dell actually set the max power limit on this laptop to 44w, will look at maybe doing some tweaks when I have some more time Log file attached.

This CPU does 2.6ghz sustained full load with a 17W package power

 

Out of nowhere Throttlestop is now appearing minimized and in the tray when I boot up. I went to options and removed the "tray icon", though when I close the window the process is no longer running... doesn't matter if tray icon is on or off... This wasn't happening before, it's pretty odd. Does anyone know how I can get it back to just have the process start up on boot without the window showing up?

I also have another question. Since Obsidian Tools is now paid for I decided to just use Throttlestop and Speedshift always shows 128 and there's no way for me to change it. I own a P650HP6, with Obsidian's profile for my laptop it used to show a much lower value, is there a way to change that?

Thanks

 

Did you click on the Speed Shift - EPP box on the main ThrottleStop screen? You should be able to change the EPP value from 128 to whatever you like.

For your first problem, is "Start Minimized" and "Minimize on Close" checked in the Options window? Tell me exactly what you want ThrottleStop to do and post a screenshot of your Options window and maybe I can suggest what you need to change.

 

@unclewebb: Today I had strange issue with TS. When Win 10 activates screen lock due to inactivity and after login, TS disappears from Notification area and I need to start TS again. Any ideas how to fix it? I'm on creators Update.

 

@Vasudev - Did you try clearing the Windows Icon Cache?

http://www.digitalcitizen.life/how-clean-notification-area-icon-cache

Most Notification area icon issues can be solved by doing that. If that doesn't work, you will have to wait for the next version of ThrottleStop which should be out before the end of the month. I need to update my programming tools to try and get around the random notification area icon issues that have long plagued ThrottleStop. Using a 20 year old version of Visual C++ just isn't cutting it anymore.

I have a desktop computer that is using Windows 10 version 1709 build 16299.15 and the ThrottleStop icon is working correctly after I lock the screen or log off and log back on so try the above fix.

I noticed one interesting thing when testing out Windows 10. Not sure when this first started to happen. When using the Task Scheduler to start ThrottleStop, I have checked off the "Run only when user is logged on" option but this is no longer working correctly. Here is what is happening. When I initially boot up and my computer is just sitting there, waiting for me to log on, in the background, Windows is already starting tasks that are not supposed to be started until after I log on.

Why? I guess Microsoft is doing this to give the illusion that Windows 10 is starting up faster than ever but it is all fake. When I enter my password, many startup programs have already been running for a while. This will have the average Joe thinking that Windows 10 is the fastest operating system ever. Perhaps this is a good feature but it is bound to screw up some software that thinks "logged on" actually means "logged on".

 

Thanks so much for the reply.

Yes, I did. I'm gonna post some screenshots.







Regarding the boot up, as you can see in the previous screenshot, everything is selected as you specifed. It just starts minimized in the taskbar, where as previously it just started the process in the background, so now, I have to keep it in the taskbar because if I close it the process no longer runs.

 

@Sptz - To the right of where it says Speed Shift - EPP where it says 128, can you not click on this number and change it? Most people can change the 128 to 0 and go from a balanced kind of profile to maximum performance regardless of load.



For your startup issues, check out this guide.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-514

If you are using the Task Scheduler and you want ThrottleStop to run in the background, double click on the ThrottleStop task and make sure on the General tab that "Run whether user is logged on or not" is checked. This should let ThrottleStop start when Windows starts but you will not have any access to the GUI when this option is checked. I will do some Windows 10 testing later to make sure this still works correctly.

Edit - I would avoid using the Clamp option in the Turbo Power Limits window. That's just another throttling method that is not needed.

 

@unclewebb Does speedshift not work when using manual voltage?

 

@Falkentyne - Speed Shift and manual voltage are two different things so they should work OK together. Are you having any specific problems that I should test?

Some CPUs might not support manual voltage but offset voltage should work. I also know that some Asus desktop boards can control the CPU voltage independently of the CPU. When this option is enabled in the bios, ThrottleStop will not be able to control the voltage.

 

@unclewebb when I use manual (override) Vcore on my MSI GT73VR, it runs full speed all the time and does not downclock at all. I just started using manual vcore yesterday.
Setting speed shift to 0 or 255 makes no difference (yes it's in green SST).

Manual voltage itself works better and is actually more stable AND uses less heat if you use a small amount of LLC (called AC loadline and DC loadline in the Bios, in mOhm (what's this?). 25/25 worked fine so I set it to 10/10 which ran even cooler.

With Adaptive voltage, speedshift works perfectly.
I switched to override manual because the power draw is VERY whacky with adaptive while being less stable to boot unless LLC is set to "auto", then adaptive is stable but the power draw and heat is sky high (the VID shown in HWinfo and Throttlestop seems to be completely wrong as the "VID" is lower (1.1v) yet draws a lot more heat. But as @sirgeorge found out, LLC at auto acts weird and draws absurd amounts of power.

I set 1140mv, 10 mohm AC loadline, 10 mohm DC loadline, and the vcore is 1.14 idle, 1.17v in Prime95 (avx disabled) while running COOLER and more stable than Adaptive with auto LLC (which showed 1.12v but ran much hotter!).

But speedshift doesn't seem to do anything with manual override...system runs full speed all the time. I can force downclock by lowering the max speedshift multiplier (e.g. min/max=8 forces 800 mhz) but this is not automatic....

 

If you want a tray icon then un-check No notification Area Icon.
@unclewebb On W10 Creators and above a startup task would run successful or triggered when user selects Run only When logged in and Start a Task at Log on instead of When Computer Start.
Tray icon didn't disappear after cleaning Icon cache. +rep added!.

 

@Falkentyne - Thanks for the info. On my Asus desktop board, manual voltage and Speed Shift work OK together.



Using a Speed Shift setting of 64 drops the MHz when lightly loaded while CPU-Z reports the same fixed voltage (1.15V) regardless of MHz. The reported VID is lower but this information is being ignored by the CPU. The fixed voltage setting in the bios is in charge of the voltage.

I do not have any experience playing around with load line settings.

Are you using Adaptive and Static (Fixed) voltage in ThrottleStop or are you doing both of these voltage adjustments in the bios?

Does CPU-Z or any other software report the correct voltage on your motherboard? On some boards if the actual voltage cannot be read correctly then CPU-Z will switch over and report the VID voltage instead. Not sure what other monitoring utilities are doing.

Edit - Are you using the Core C7 C States? Usually this can help keep power consumption and heat down when lightly loaded even at full MHz but on your board this might be ignored.

 

Good morning @unclewebb
Using manual override voltage settings in the Bios (unlocked Bios; would not be accessible otherwise).

I only had unlock adjustable in throttlestop for CPU cache so I could set the cache ratio 3 lower than the multiplier (it says static 0.0000v so its not being overriden). But disabling that makes no difference.

BTW
Going into throttlestop, going to unlock adjustable voltage, setting it to adaptive there, then Speed shift works perfectly and downclocks perfectly (SST=0=full speed, SST=255 heavy downclocks). It just refuses to work if static is enabled.

I have speedshift disabled in the unlocked Bios. I have not tested enabling it within the bios to see if this changes this strange behavior (I'll try that later).

This seems like a bios or design issue, not throttlestop.

*Edit* Set speed shift to enabled in the Bios. No change.

*Edit* All of the C states are enabled. They were never touched. I did unlock "CFG Lock" but I dont know what that does. One of your old posts says something like "Package C-state limit-locked", which that seems to remove. Don't know how to make any use of that.

 

Thanks for all the tips!

Regarding the startup issues, I'm not sure if it was a Windows 10 update or not but it used to work perfectly, it just started the process and that's it, no tray icon, no taskbar icon. I just did everything you told me and it's not working... really weird, I'm gonna do some further testing and check back in.

 

@Sptz - I created a folder for all of the ThrottleStop files called C:\Program Files (x86)\ThrottleStop

I can then run ThrottleStop.exe while in my account, get everything setup correctly and then I can use the Task Scheduler to auto start ThrottleStop.exe

Depending on what options I select, ThrottleStop.exe will either run within my account and create a system tray icon or it can run in the background with no icon and no access to the GUI like you used to have. I just tested this while running the latest version of Windows 10 and this continues to work 100% correctly. If you are still having problems, delete the task you created and create a new one. Follow this guide exactly.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-514

 

I didn't know TS can work like that. That explains it whilst following your guide I happen to notice TS process in task manager but no icons in tray, so I thought it was a Zombie process that Windows created.
One thing I want to bring it to notice was, whenever I select AMD GPU in Options it simply turns gray whereas nvidia GPU doesn't. I'm talking about laptop with switchable GFX from AMD. Any ideas?

 

Hi all,

I've been playing around with ThrottleStop (great work btw unclewebb!) since I got my new laptop last week (Dell Precision 5520, if that's relevant). I've been using TS to undervolt my CPU, to keep it cool(er) and keep the fans quiet.

But I'm having some trouble understanding what the Turn On/Off button actually does. Or rather, it seems like TrottleStop is always on, even when it should be off. I tried booting fresh (power down completely) with TS disabled. When I start TS the taskbar icon is green, meaning it should be off (right?) and monitoring only. However when I open TS and select a profile, I can see my CPU speeds responding to it, even though I haven't touched the Turn On button yet. Can anyone shed some light on what exactly the On/Off button does/doesn't control?

Another issue I'm having is when playing a game (Cities: Skylines). When I run TS in the background, even with voltage settings at default, my entire system freezes and reboots when the temperature of the CPU and GPU get to 70-75C. As soon as I hear the fans kick into high gear the system crashes. When I run the game without TS everything seems to run fine, albeit somewhat hot. I initially thought maybe the CPU needed more power than I was letting it have (because of the undervolting), but if I look at the logs the package power right before the crash is only around 11-12W. And even when I run a profile with voltage settings at default, the crash occurs. It can't be the temperatures either, since it runs fine without TS.

Anyone have an idea what might be causing this?

 

Please provide the CPU specs? Is it ULV chip?

 

Oh right, sorry. The CPU is an Intel i7-7820HQ.

 

Thanks. Did you update the BIOS to latest one available as of now?

 

I did. Just checked if I'm on the latest version, which I am (did a BIOS update last week).

 

So, uncheck BD PROCHOT option in TS and play that game again and see if it fixes issues like strange stutters or throttling.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually my default profile (and the one I had running when the crashes occurred) already had BD PROCHOT unchecked. Also, it wasn't stutters or throttling, it was a total system freeze out of nowhere, with the game running like a dream just the second before...

 

You're undervolting right?
If the CPU is only using 11-12W, it means that there is almost no CPU power load, and thus the CPU is downclocking. If you are using ADAPTIVE VCORE, it means that the adaptive voltage is also being set lower. If you are undervolting, then the undervolt applies to BOTH the idle voltage and the load voltage. It's possible that at (low load) idle one of the voltage steps is unstable because of the undervolt. The way to fix this is to reduce the undervolt by a little bit.

This is one of the problems with dynamic voltages. You can see the same thing happen with Pascal video cards. Set a certain overclock when NOT locking the voltage (if the voltage is locked with control L on a point, the vcore will only be reduced when hitting power limits or the temperature throttle -13 mhz steps), the card might be stable for hours at full load and higher heat, but when first starting a game, it may crash in the first minute, as the temps are low and the voltage hits a certain voltage step which winds up being unstable at that core clock.

The "on/off" button only controls the power saving options in the main window (Speedstep, C1E). Not the profiles or monitoring.

 

Thanks for your reply! Yes, I am undervolting and your reply sounds plausible. I'll have to try it out later tonight. I'm pretty sure that I tested with a neutral normal volted profile too and saw the same results (crash), but I'll double check that too.

I'll report back when I know more. Thanks for the replies so far!

 

Okay so I tested some more. Changed the game profile so there's no undervolt happening, made sure BD PROCHOT is unchecked. Yet the same behaviour occurs: a couple seconds after the fan kicks into high speed, the whole machine crashes and reboots. See the screenshots below for the settings I used, and the last couple of lines from the log right before it crashed.

Code:

   DATE       TIME    MULTI   C0%   CKMOD  CHIPM   BAT_mW  TEMP  GPU     VID   POWER
2017-10-11  21:00:51  27.51   21.4  100.0  100.0        0   68    63   0.9310   11.4
2017-10-11  21:00:52  28.47   21.5  100.0  100.0        0   63    63   0.9349   11.9
2017-10-11  21:00:53  27.94   20.9  100.0  100.0        0   65    63   0.9296   11.3
2017-10-11  21:00:54  27.70   21.8  100.0  100.0        0   64    63   0.9143   11.6
2017-10-11  21:00:55  27.57   21.3  100.0  100.0        0   68    63   0.9158   11.1
2017-10-11  21:00:56  27.74   21.7  100.0  100.0        0   68    63   0.9523   11.6
2017-10-11  21:00:57  27.50   22.0  100.0  100.0        0   67    64   0.9578   11.5
2017-10-11  21:00:58  28.01   21.8  100.0  100.0        0   65    64   0.8909   11.5
2017-10-11  21:00:59  27.41   21.7  100.0  100.0        0   67    64   0.9009   11.3
2017-10-11  21:01:00  27.54   21.6  100.0  100.0        0   67    63   0.8856   11.4

Any ideas?

 

Looking at my own reply I see the CPU cache is still undervolted, even though it says in my settings it isn't.... I'll see if I can reset it and if that changes things.

 

Never undervolt iGPU. Any monitoring apps like HWINFO or HWMON running in background? Disable any Dell Command Center or similar.

 

Thank you! Apparently the Dell Performance Optimizer was running in the background. I had no idea it existed, but there you go. The DPO and ThrottleStop were (probably) getting into a fight, resulting in the crashes. You live and learn

Also, the undervolt on the game profile is a no-go apparently. Or at least not as much as I had it on. I tried setting the undervolt back while the game was running and it crashed instantly

Thanks a bunch for the help guys! Sorry for asking newbie questions, it's a complicated piece of software but I'm starting to get the hang of it.

Btw Vasudev, you said never to undervolt de iGPU. Can I ask why?

 

@Beempje - The Turn On - Turn Off button only applies to the Clock Modulation and Set Multiplier features. It dates back to the early days of ThrottleStop when users were too scared to use the program. Some day I plan to move that button and group it with those other settings so it is more logical.

When using ThrottleStop to undervolt, if you clear the Unlock Adjustable Voltage box, this does not automatically reset the CPU voltage. The CPU will be left in its current state. If you want to reset the voltage offset to 0, It is up to you to do this first, before disabling this feature. That is probably why your cache is still undervolted in the screenshot above. Keep an eye on the monitoring table in the upper right corner of the FIVR screen when making adjustments. It is updated in real time so you will know what voltages the CPU is getting.

When I see -125 mV for your cache undervolt, that makes me think that you started ThrottleStop, dragged the CPU Core and CPU Cache sliders all the way to the left and away you went. If that is the case, you need to undervolt in smaller steps and you need to do lots of stability testing along the way. Some CPUs can only be reliably undervolted -40 mV or -50 mV. When testing, don't just run a single game. You need to run a wide range of stability tests to make sure the undervolt you have selected is stable.

A Speed Shift setting on the main screen of 128 is probably going to prevent your CPU from reaching its full potential. It can also lead to instability when you are undervolting. For maximum performance, a Speed Shift - EPP setting of 0 is recommended.

Your CPU supports overclocking which you can enable in the FIVR window. You bought a high performance CPU, Intel built overclocking into your CPU so you might as well use it. Your temperatures seem OK so far. I would overclock first, adjust the voltage and then do some testing. ThrottleStop shows that you can increase each of your Turbo Ratios by +4. When first starting out, you might want to keep it simple. Check the Overclock box and set the 4 different core ratios equally to 39. You can increase the 1 Core Active multiplier as high as 43 but it will take more playing around with voltages to get this stable.

@Vasudev probably doesn't recommend under volting the iGPU for stability reasons. When gaming, I assume your laptop has and is using the Nvidia GPU so under volting the Intel iGPU is probably not going to make a significant difference to power consumption or temperatures. Not worth risking stability.

 

Hi unclewebb, thanks a lot for your extensive reply! Let me go over each of your points.

Yeah I figured this out by the end of my testing. In hindsight this was probably more related to the crashes than the Dell software running in the background. I initially tested using a profile where I had disabled the Ajustable Voltage Box, not noticing that the undervolt was still applied. So effectively I was constantly running with an undervolt during my tests, which is why the crashes occurred every time I ran ThrottleStop.

I did actually start out with a much more conservative undervolt, and built it up (down?) from there. However I did not test the stability of each step using games. My laptop is primarily a development machine, so I tested the undervolts with some heavy compilation tasks and some benchmarks (including the built-in TS bench). When I hit -125mV I figured I was pretty low already, so I didn't try to go any lower. I didn't expect the load for gaming to be heavier than the activities I had tested with, but the higher CPU temperatures (and the crashes I ran into) say otherwise

I set the Speed Shift to 128 on purpose, to try and keep the CPU from getting (too) hot. My main purpose of using ThrottleStop was to try and keep the temperatues down (by undervolting), so the machine's fans don't need to kick in as much (since they can be very noisy). It's a laptop with very compact body, so heat can be an issue. I figured if I can lower the voltage a bit, then the CPU won't run as hot, meaning less fan noise. But I'll try a Speed Shift setting of 0, see how that goes.

I'm quite new to overclocking, so I'll have to read up on that first. Last time I overclocked my CPU was my (then new) Pentium 200, so it's been a while ;-) I presume overclocking the CPU will make it run hotter, right? I don't really need higher performance, I'd rather keep the system a bit cooler where possible (as long as it doesn't cost me any performance either). But I'll read up a bit first.

You are correct, for gaming the Nvidia card is used. And thinking about it I see your point, the iGPU isn't really doing any hard work, so no point trying to keep the consumption or temp down. I'll remove the undervolt on the iGPU.

Thanks again for the help guys! Really appreciate it

 

Thank you @unclewebb
@Beempje: There nothing wrong with undervolting iGPU, but the downside is whenever there's a high load on iGPU (Windows UI) it comes with a freebie called "stuttering" wherein the entire system experience strange glitches. XTU does undervolt everything to same value where your undervolt will be unstable because of iGPU. TS is far superior and gives the users the power to disable iGPU undervolting.
Also, you can tweak Intel Power Balance and set major power distribution to CPU and less to iGPU, so that dGPU can take over that heavy graphics based task from iGPU.

 

What are the settings for that? My default is 7 CPU and 11 GPU.

Another question, i am getting a red flag under edp current every few seconds. Is that related to the primary plane power limits values in the TPL window? These are the settings I have

 

My sister has the same CPU, so set the CPU to 25 and GPU to 15. Uncheck TDP level control and BD PROCHOT in main window. You can increase the pp0 turbo time limit to 8.

 

Thanks!
I will take the opportunity and share the rest of the settings to check if everything is fine

 

Hello, I'm fairly new to the overclocking/undervolting scene, especially with Throttlestop. I just have a few questions about what you guys would recommend for my processor. My specs are:
Intel i7 6500u
Intel 520
As you can tell, I run on a potato more or less. Which was why I wanted to upgrade the performance of my laptop for gaming. If you guys could give me suggestions for what to select, disable, and values for certain things that'd be great. If I'm looking in the wrong place, maybe a link or such to help me find what I need would be just as helpful.