The ThrottleStop Guide

Sorry for not being clear I meant that if you wanted to save power then you must select [Maximum Power Saving]. I will edit my post to make it clear
Writing a guide won't give any benefit if it is widely available on Google you just need to know how to search for it

and what do you mean? couldn't understand your point with this sentence

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To @GreatD it won't cause any decrease on performance at all because this only have an effect while on idle but not while gaming or doing any kind of heavy workload it have very good effect to C States when you put it to [Maximum Power Saving] while being [Off] will go to lower C States less frequently at the end Going lower C States=Less power consumption at Idle= Cooler temperature

At least that's what I observed on my laptop

 

I mean,your laptop is tweaked to the max.I have never seen such a thing.
And how would you OC the iGPU?
Man unlocked BIOSes can really do a miracle.How did you managed to flash it onto the laptop?

 

Unlocking your BIOS=everything is possible I always squeeze every single dip of performance from all way around , on every edge, on everything even my own smartphone I'm treating it the same thing

To answer your questions I OC'ed my iGPU through XTU and also once you OC BCLK it will mainly overclock your whole Laptop like RAM MHz speed, iGPU, and others because it is all connected

First of all.... Mainly it needs disassembly your laptop, using CH341a programmer with SOIC8 chip clip, and deep knowledge for your own laptop specifically because every laptop has there own thing and there own setting even there own terminology of settings usually I always buy ASUS laptops due to it is usually always open for modding and unlocking BIOSs [unofficially of course] they build this reputation due to how open they are

There is always a reason like other vendors AW/Dell,Lenovo and HP to lock down there own BIOS so that nobody would mess with it and get free performance boost or even add more features!

ASUS usually charge $$$ for a unique features that it is already on the BIOS on older models! like for example DTS Audio , NVME SSD support,etc... all that I found it on my own laptop that is was locked from the BIOS which I usually find it on the higher expensive models of ASUS Laptops.. so.. what I did is enjoying all the expensive features that they offer without paying a single money

It is all for $$$.. so as a user.. you must know your own laptop from A-->Z and be a CFP ( Control Freak Person) like me I buyed it to do what I want it to do not the other way around...

at the end... Knowledge is Power

Edit:-Sorry for the long post

 

Hi, I'm a ThrottleStop newbie. I've managed to set the under-volting for my Carbon X1, but I don't understand how to set the TDP limits. The ThrottleStop UI is very terse. I am trying to follow this guide https://www.notebookcheck.net/More-...d-X1-Carbon-2018-ThinkPad-T480s.296752.0.html which uses Intel XTU. I tried XTU but, as others found, it crashes after resume from sleep. In XTU it is obvious how to change the Turbo Boost Short Power Max & Turbo Boost Power Max limits from the very low values Lenovo currently set. But when I look at the TPL screen I'm not sure which of the fields there corresponds to the ones in the XTU screens - the terminology is different.

Is there a guide somewhere that translates from XTU speak into ThrottleStop? I just want to know what are the equivalent fields for "Turbo Boost Short Power Max Enable" and the 2 Turbo Boost Power Max fields. My guess is that the latter 2 are the two numbers in the "Package Power Limits"? But there is a button called "Clamp" - what is that? And there are 2 fields called "Package Power Long/Short" which are both greyed out.

 

Is there a way to configure a schedule in task manager, to, besides start TS automatically at logon, to close it and reopen it after waking up from suspension?

 

I am not sure how to do this. The question I have is, why do you need to do this? What are you trying to accomplish? Is there a bug in TS that you are trying to work around?

Those are the two main turbo power limits. I named these based on Intel's public documentation. They are equivalent to Turbo Boost Short Power Max and Turbo Boost Power Max in XTU.

If these two values are grayed out in ThrottleStop, that is usually a sign that the power limit register that contains these two values is locked. A locked register cannot be changed. Why does Intel let you adjust these values if they are locked? Good question. The same thing happens on my Lenovo Y510P - 4700MQ. I can adjust both of these limits in XTU and originally it gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling that I was actually accomplishing something but in reality, when I checked the values in the power limits register, nothing actually changed. The power limits register is locked solid by the bios.

A CPU will throttle when it reaches one of these power limits. If your long term turbo power limit was set to 10 Watts then long term while running a stress test, your CPU will reduce turbo boost so it does not exceed 10 Watts. When Clamp is not checked, it will only reduce the amount of turbo boost so the CPU will not run any slower than its default speed. When the Clamp option is checked, it will reduce all of the turbo boost and if the CPU is still over the 10 Watt limit, it will continue to reduce the CPU speed as much as necessary so it absolutely does not exceed 10 Watts. In my opinion, the Clamp option is getting kicked where you do not want to be kicked. I would never enable the Clamp option.

If you want to get your hands dirty, you can download and run RWEverything to investigate the power limits register, MSR 0x610. Uninstall XTU, reboot and do not run ThrottleStop. Now you can start up RWEverything and it will allow you to look at the power limits register in an unmolested state. That way I will be able to show you if the Lock bit is checked or not. If you did not use ThrottleStop to lock this register and the register is locked then the bios must be responsible for doing this. Let me know if you need some help with this.

While we are on the topic of XTU bugs, here is one I just found. On the early 1st Gen CPUs, the TDP and TDC were both located in MSR 0x1AC. The Intel documentation clearly shows that the TDP value is located in the lower bits and the TDC value is located in the higher bits.

https://i.imgur.com/iq3rUIN.png

Intel XTU has reversed these two values.

https://i.imgur.com/m5qdBiC.png

A ThrottleStop TDP setting of 190 Watts and a TDC setting of 110 Amps shows up in that register correctly but Intel has switched these two values around and shows it as 110 Watts and 190 Amps. That gets a fail. If the CPU voltage is over 1.0 volt then the Watts has to be greater than the Amps. I love reading in forums. I trust Intel XTU over ThrottleStop because Intel is a big company and they must know what they are doing. Sure they do.

 

You have to try harder. It could be a program or a bad driver but there has to be something and until you get this under control, your battery run time will be lousy.

My laptop used to have a horrible driver for the touchpad. Some dummy at Elan thought it would be a good idea to not sample the touchpad hundreds or thousands of times per second or even something crazy like a million times a second. Instead, they went way overboard and wrote code that was sampling the touchpad at close to a billion times per second. Result. Resting my big fat thumb on the touchpad, without even moving it, created an instant spike on the first thread of the CPU. This is typical old school programming. Locking code to the first thread as if they are still programming on a single core CPU. Just crazy.

For testing purposes, I could not afford a shiny new 6 core CPU so I installed Windows 10 - 1803 on an 8 year old 6 core Xeon CPU. I always hear complaints about how bloated Windows 10 is so I wanted to see how big of a load there is after a clean install. ThrottleStop and Avast antivirus were installed but not a lot else.



This old 1st Gen CPU only needs to spend 0.1% of its time in the C0 state to process all of the various Windows background tasks. The hyperthread for each core is pretty much dormant. I did not have to wait an hour to get this screenshot. I logged the CPU with an old program called i7 Turbo GT and it showed many seconds where the CPU C0% was in the 0.10% to 0.15% range.

https://pastebin.com/pnWrAZNh

When I hear about C0% fluctuations up to 10% or 12%, now you know why I recommend that you look harder and get a handle on your computer.

Open the Task Manger, click on the Details tab, right mouse click on one of the headings and choose, the menu item, Select columns. Check the CPU time option to add this info to Task Manager. Click on OK and then click on the new CPU time column header to organize the running tasks by how much CPU time they are soaking up. Is there a task near the top of that list that is consuming way too many CPU cycles? There must be. If a task is causing the CPU to constantly spike to 12% then it should show up near the top of this list. It could be a driver but there has to be something.

Process Explorer is a great free program to help you search deeper.

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/process-explorer

 

I second what unclewebb says. Check harder. If you reeeeaaallyyy can't find ANYTHING, return it. It's a bad laptop. My previous Aspire F5-572G-595M (Oh hey, I still remember the model number!) had a crippling issue with the audio AND touchpad. On idle, System Interrupts would hog 10% of the CPU. Put a finger on the touchpad, and system interrupts would rise to 20%. Don't accept anything but a FULL refund.

 

I don't mind long posts at all.In fact,it's a very good one at that.
So how would you know your laptop ins and outs?
Yourself through trials and errors?Or fron researching online?

 

Actually both it all depends on the type of BIOS you are dealing with for example (Insyde H2O, AMI, etc..) usually modern laptops that I usually see is using AMI Bios but every vendor or OEM have a different version of AMI which leads to different way of unlocking them or by other means modding them . I bricked my laptop like over 10 times.. I can't remember I always test every single settings and with different kind of combinations of settings... sometimes there's a reason why those hidden or locked out settings due to it is not stable or simply it is not possible to use on your current motherboard or laptop due to missing part of hardware that it needs to function properly.
For example mine is an AMI V.5 BIOS type.. so what I do is to search for it and the way of unlocking it.. usually you will find other kind of laptops from other vendors or OEM are using the same BIOS type and have a guide for how to unlock them but it won't be the same at all and you may get stuck. So from there I start guessing and trying and see similar way of unlocking them after finding out or having enough information to begin I start to do trial & error

I always have my CH341a programmer which help me no matter how much I brick my laptop as long as I have my full 8MB BIOS backup.. I can simply remove the word [bricking] from my dictionary or stop worrying about bricking my laptop

By the way if anyone have the same model of my ASUS ROG GL552VX laptop I can send him my fully unlocked BIOS with unlocked fan, cpu, igpu, egpu, ram, power, etc... everything! I will be gladly to send him my BIOS to enjoy the meaning of [FULL CONTROL]

I think ASUS will put me in the top wanted list..

 

It's good that there's still people who care that much to their PC.
Can you pinpoint the guide to flash a custom BIOS,a generic one?
I am so hyped up to tweak mine,an Acer Predator.

 

Thanks uncleweb. This is what I see in ThrottleStop:


Are you saying that if I do change the Long/Short times, they wont take effect because the "Package Power Long/Short" buttons are greyed out? I think when I tried the equivalent in XTU the new limits did take affect.

I think I need to check over on the Lenovo forums to see what values other X1 Carbon Gen6 owners have on the latest BIOS - I am sure some people have quoted much lower values. In this post ( https://medium.com/@n4ru/the-x1-carbon-is-a-fanboys-nightmare-91c86909d79d) it implies the Lenovo defaults are 15/25, but because I ran XTU and then asked it to reset the values, they have ended up being the 25/44, which is much higher than Lenovo set them to. I think I need to reduce them back down to more sensible levels for this machine, something like 20/30, to stop it reaching throttling limits too quickly. That said, I do get good performance on the current settings. I guess it is a case of benchmark and monitor to see the best for my usage.

Can you explain what the values are in the righthand part of the TDP dialog? Most seem to be greyed out:


Thanks

 

I see look... how about to give me a backup of your BIOS and upload it for me? that will save time for you & for me to know what kind of BIOS you have and to know it is moddable or not

First use download AFUWIN from this link https://ami.com/?AMIBIOS_and_Aptio_AMI_Firmware_Update_Utility.zip and choose Aptio V under
[AMI Firmware Update Utilities] section then it will lead you to the download link
Search for a folder named [afuwin] and extract it... after that open afuwingui.exe and click [save] button and give me the file that you saved it... this is your backup BIOS.

But first of all before getting into this game... read about it from this link
https://www.win-raid.com/t286f16-Guide-Flashing-modified-AMI-Aptio-UEFI-using-AFU.html

 

Crap I have an Insyde BIOS.
Mine is an Acer Predator Helios 300 with an i7-7700HQ and GTX 1060.

 

Oh it was expected I was hoping the opposite... (AMI)... I'm sorry to say this but Insyde BIOS is really locked down due to they have rewrite protection

I really wish that I can help you but it seems it went out of my hands

It looks like your only way is through flashing it physically by disassembling your laptop and use CH341a programmer to flash you BIOS by force... If your BIOS is moddable wish is highly unlikely

 

You tried your best.No need to be sad.
I saw a guy with an G3-571(mine is G3-572) have his BIOS modded on biosmods.com.
Can you explain what is the CH341a programmer and the SOHCI8 clip(sorry if I butchered that)?

 

No, you didn't butchered at all It is a device that is used to erase BIOS from the chip on the motherboard and write the modified BIOS without triggering any security measurement or by other means bypass the security and the SOHCI8 is a clip that is used to attach it to the chip that have BIOS data.

You can bring this device from Amazon or ebay.. it is widely available

Usually you can do some research for your laptop and to fully disassembly your laptop & find which chip that have the BIOS

About the BIOS mods for Insyde.. for older BIOS it was moddable & can easily be edited even easier than AMI due to you can flash the modified BIOS without checking if it is signed or not but it was prone to bricking your laptop even if it is made correctly but for newer versions of Insyde.. it is impossible really due to rewrite protection The only way is through CH341a programmer.

 

I dont think its a TS bug since it also happened with intels XTU (and also had the same problem with a previous laptop, MSI too, same model, but older), but everytime I wake up the laptop from suspension, the undervolt gets reset, and I have to reapply it (I actually have to apply a different voltage first, since TS/XTU think the current undervolt is set)

I see those programmers are pretty cheap on aliexpress. Do you know any tutorial on how to use them?

 

Well.. about how to use CH341a programmer.. it is all found on YouTube you just put [CH341a programmer] on Youtube and you will see thousands of ways... you just need to test for yourself and find which one works with your own laptop.. every laptop doesn't work the same way your real problem here is how to find which chip that contains your BIOS

This method works for me.. although it was used for different purposes but it worked for me

 

Can you post a screenshot of the FIVR window after you resume? How do you know the undervolt has been reset? Are you looking at data from XTU or some other monitoring program? I know XTU has a problem with re-applying the voltage after resuming but I cannot remember seeing this problem in ThrottleStop. Post any info you have to verify this problem so I can see if I can get it fixed up.

 

I noticed because at the start of summer the games I used to play, lagged a lot. I saw higher than expected temperatures on HWInfo, and then later I noticed the UV wasnt getting applied after resuming the laptop.

Spoiler: FIVR

As you can see,the Apply button is greyed out, so I have to set the UV to -124,apply it, then -123 again and apply it again.

The other day, I noticed the UV was still applied after waking it up. I dont remember doing anything special, besides resuming the laptop while connected to an external monitor. If I remember correctly, when I realized the UV was still applied, I suspended the laptop and wake it again, and the UV was gone.

 

@Temp1234453 - I was going to tell you that I remember someone else reporting this problem but the person that reported it last month was you. I still do not have an explanation or a solution. I assume you are using Windows 10 - 1803 with the latest updates. Are you using connected standby or some other Windows power related feature that you can think of?

The way ThrottleStop works is that when a computer resumes from stand by, Windows sends out a signal to inform software that it has just resumed. ThrottleStop says OK, time to re-apply the voltages to make sure they are correct. In your case, it seems like Windows is not sending this message so ThrottleStop does not check or update your voltage. I do not have a laptop that supports connected standby so I have not had a chance to do any hands on testing of this Windows feature but it could also be some other Windows feature (or bug) that I am not aware of. The overwhelming majority of ThrottleStop users are not having this problem or have not reported this problem.

Do you have Intel XTU installed? If yes, have you tried uninstalling XTU and only using ThrottleStop?

When you resume from stand by, can you open the FIVR window and watch the monitoring table. Wait a minute and just watch to see if the reported voltages in that table ever get around to changing.

Are you having any problems with ThrottleStop saving any other changes? For a quick test, check the BD PROCHOT option, press Save, now clear the BD PROCHOT option and exit ThrottleStop without pressing Save. Restart ThrottleStop and see if BD PROCHOT is checked or not. It should be checked after this test.

Are you going into stand by mode and coming out of stand by mode into the same ThrottleStop profile? Let's say you go into stand by in the Game profile which is using your offset voltage and then you resume and are now in the Battery profile or some other profile where you do not specifically have an offset voltage set, that would make sense that the voltage is not being applied. For testing, only use a single ThrottleStop profile.

Just doing some brain storming. Hopefully you get lucky and figure something out.

 

I wish you would have posted that picture when you originally asked your question. It would have saved me from going way off on a tangent.

Your ThrottleStop picture shows that the Lock option is not checked. This means you can adjust your power limits using ThrottleStop or Intel XTU. If you plan to use ThrottleStop, I would uninstall XTU, reboot and then before starting ThrottleStop, delete the ThrotteStop.INI config file. Now when you start ThrottleStop, it will show the warning message and it will read the values that the bios set your CPU to. These values will be shown in ThrottleStop. If the bios set these to 25 / 44, you can lower these in ThrottleStop. If they are at their default values, you can try using ThrottleStop to raise them.

The low power U CPU series supports configurable TDP (cTDP) Up and cTDP Down. These values cannot be changed. ThrottleStop just shows you what they are. TDP Level 0 is your default TDP Level. The CPU will use the factory 15 Watt value in this level. TDP Level 1 shows that your CPU can drop down and instantly become a 10 Watt CPU. During good times, it can enter cTDP Up and instantly become a 25 Watt CPU. This allows manufacturers a lot of control. These CPUs are sort of like 3 completely different CPUs in the same package that software, usually a driver, can instantly switch back and forth between. Great idea but it would be an even greater idea if users had full control over this. Consumers are at the mercy of manufacturers. The exact same CPU model might run like Jack the Bear in one laptop and run like it is running in molasses in another device. ThrottleStop also reports that the default multiplier changes when the CPU switches between these profiles. I think HWiNFO reports what TDP Level a CPU is currently in.

Your screenshot shows that Power Limit 3 was probably locked by the bios and it is not being used. It is just one more throttling method so locked and unused is the best state for it to be in.

 

Could someone help me pls:
Just wanted to increase Power limit for my Cube Thinker i35 with Core M3 7Y30.
Default values are 15W short Turbo boost and 7W long. I want to increase the last to 9W.

It works well with Intel XTU. But I don't like it due to its size and how it saves profiles till the next system start or sleep.

When I launch TT - it can modify voltages, upper Power Limit (15W) but it can nothing to do with long Turbo boost Power limit which is 7W by default and I want 9W.
BTW it shows proper value of Long Turbo Power, which I set up in Intel XTU, but changing it by TT does nothing (neither decrease or increase).
I tried to delete XTU, TT ini file, launched TT as Admin - but no result.

Thanks for you replies!

 

Then you will have to continue using Intel XTU. ThrottleStop does not have access to some of the power limits that XTU does. If this is the case, adjusting the Package Power Long in ThrottleStop will have no effect. The next version of ThrottleStop might offer more control on a wider range of devices. Stay tuned.

 

Hello unclewebb, I have acer nitro 5 laptop with i7 8750h CPU and 1050ti GPU and undervolted to -150mv on core and cache and -100mv on iGPU and everything has been great. I actually faced one problem where screen shows some artifacts (green pixels) and that happens only when intel graphics is set to balanced mode. It doesn't happen when it's set on maximum performance. Reducing undervolt by a little bit helps, but i'd like to know why that happens?

Another thing which i'd like to know. I tried increasing power limit (both long and short) using rweverything but it didn't have any affect. Does increasing ppo current limit work in this case, or is it impossible ? Also, does it increase cpu temperature by a huge margin? Thanks in advance.

 

-I dont have XTU installed anymore, never used both at the same time
-The voltages dont change after waiting some minutes
-Afaik, I dont have connected standby (had to google what is it), I just press the power button and the laptop suspends/sleeps.
-I have Windows 10 updated
-The BD Prochot test works
-The profile is always the 1, just undervolt.
-I have a custom power profile (which is just high performance with min % cpu set to 5% instead of 100%), but I just tested the default balanced one, same problem.

Btw, Unclewebb, I noticed my TDP Level 2 shows 0, is this normal? (7700HQ)

Spoiler: TDP

 

I think only the U CPUs have a cTDP Up and cTDP Down mode. It looks like the 7700HQ supports a cTDP Down mode to 35 Watts but the higher TDP option is not used. I will keep putting some thought into your resume problem but I am running out of ideas of what might be causing this.

You answered your own question. If you are seeing artifacts then the iGPU is probably not getting enough voltage. Add more voltage, artifacts go away. In iGPU performance mode, the iGPU might be locked to its maximum frequency. Your under volt reduces the voltage at the maximum frequency and everything is good. The problem is that when the iGPU is in Balanced mode, the iGPU frequency and voltage is already being reduced. Throw an under volt on top of this already reduced voltage and the end result is not enough voltage and iGPU artifacts.

Good news everyone. I recently had some new code sent my way and I have just finished adding this new code to ThrottleStop. This will finally allow TS to access the two power limits in memory that it previously did not have access to. Good times ahead for those that need this feature. Lots of testing to do still but I am hoping to have a new TS version with this and the IccMax feature available in the next few days. I also changed some terminology so it will be easier for XTU users to switch over to TS.

 

Hi there, I'm wondering if there is a way to make a profile change based on the alarm a permanent change instead of a temporary one. Right now when the temps reach my threshold it will change the profile over to the failsafe profile, but then a second or two later it just changes it back to the original which causes large fluctuations in the clockspeed. I'd just like to stay on my primary profile, then automatically switch to the failsafe profile when it hits the alarm, but I'm not sure if this is possible.

I guess in an ideal world, I would be able to tell Throttlestop "Please automatically set the clockspeed so that the processor reaches 90C, if it goes under this raise the clockspeed until it reaches 90C, if it goes higher then reduce it until it maintains 90C", but as far as I know this isn't possible as the profiles are based on a target clockspeed rather than temperature. Setting a failsafe profile will bring the clockspeed down, but that doesn't mean temperatures will reach a certain value, as the temperature depends on the environment, it only means the temperature will be reduced relative to what it was. If the temperatures are brought lower than the alarm threshold, the profile switches over to the original and then the cycle of overheating > switch to failsafe > low temp >switch back to primary profile continues (Sometimes over a period as short as 1-2 seconds), rather than maintaining a steadier clockspeed based on a target temperature.

 

That is basically thermal throttling.

90C is a perfectly safe temperature. So is 99C or whatever Intel deems as safe. The rest of your computer will fail long before running your CPU at 100C.

What is your PROCHOT temp?

 

From that definition yes, the ideal case would be to run the highest clockspeed possible and stay at 99C all the time, but there's no way to do that, so setting a target maximum temp would be reasonable, like how AMD set their R9 290 to maintain a target temp of the highest clockspeed that can be maintained at 95C. The problem is that the "highest clockspeed that can be maintained at 95C" is a variable clockspeed, based on ambient temps, rather than an absolute value. We would need to be able to set a temperature target, that's what would be great to have, in an ideal world.

From my perspective, thermal throttling would be clocking the CPU down by large amounts even when reaching lower temps, like 75C, rather than temps like 90 or 95C where you're basically close to maxing out what the processor can do performance wise.

The default BIOS for the 3830 throttles to 1.2GHz at 85C IIRC, the modded BIOS I run doesn't do that, mine just goes as high as I let it and will just shutdown when it reaches Tjunction at 100C.

 

Yes, when the various Pascal GPUs I've had are on the limit of thermal throttle (usually shortly after receiving the unit and shortly before taking it apart to improve the cooling), clocks are extremely unstable, varying by 30 to 40% from second to second.

I also find even near the maximum of cpu overclocks, overall higher performance is attained from a slightly lower multiplier and voltage rather than an absolute maximum where it bounces off a limiter of some sort, thermal, current, etc.

 

Sorry if this has been asked before, I have undervolted -100mV on CPU core and cache voltage on Windows 10 and was wondering will doing Windows update affect Throttlestop or the undervolt?

 

Read this post carefully and you will have what you need
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-37#post-7231834

It will simply delay switching to profile to whatever time you want it to delay

 

Not at all.. but be sure your undervolt is stable so that it won't crash while on the middle of update

 

Hey unclewebb and community of Throttlestop. Would PL2 flag on the CPU every 3 or 4 days during startup and on idle be a hardware related fault or is it normal for some M.B to do so even when the CPU is cool and and not stressed while gaming for example. Thanks and apologize in advance if I repeated myself but I dont have a clear answer. I'm hoping the new version of TS will eliminate PL2 throttling on startup and idle. Thanks all, I would appreciate any assistance possible. Btw fantastic work unclewebb, I love your app. Thanks for all your hard work and time

 

Thank you for explaining One more thing i observed is that when laptop is running on battery, speed shift value isn't applying. No matter what value i select in throttlestop, it shows as 127 in fivr table. This happens on balanced power plan. If i change power plan to high performance, then speed shift becomes 0. It works fine when plugged in though. Can you please explain why it happens? Thank you and can't wait for the new update.

EDIT: Somehow my power plan is always set to high performance by default on laptop startup and it obeys throttlestop's speedshift value. As soon as i change it to balanced plan, the value changes to 127. Moving the battery slider after clicking battery icon on taskbar changes the value simultaneously (0 on best performance and 85 for better performance) I'm on latest windows 10 1803 btw.

 

ThrottleStop does not start until after Windows starts up so it will not be able to help you with that problem. Maybe the new features will help when idle but is zero throttling when idle important? Throttling when trying to use my computer is what annoys me.

Your testing confirms that on laptops, the latest Windows 10 versions are using Speed Shift technology. I could probably write some inefficient code that hammers away at the register that controls Speed Shift and if TS writes to that register faster than Windows does, maybe ThrottleStop can regain control. It would be a lot easier if you just use the Windows High Performance plan.

@ajnauron - The best thing you can do is improve your CPU cooling. You might also want to try lowering the CPU multiplier or lower your turbo power limits so they are better balanced with the amount of cooling you have available. ThrottleStop sampling your CPU temperature and speed every second and trying to balance those two variables is not a great solution.

 

Even if im navigating though Windows Explorer it flags PL2 in red under limit reasons and Youtube in chrome? It sometimes does it though, would it be classified as hardware fault on the M.B if it doesn't do it all the time?

 

It is unlikely to be a hardware fault. Likely the guy that wrote the bios forgot to setup one of the power limit registers properly. It will be interesting to see if TS 8.70 can fix this problem for you.

 

welp, I liked hehe

 

Hmm, I've installed the latest drivers from the Dell website for my notebook. APM is not available for my SSDs—both are PCIe NVMe x4 drives.

@unclewebb and @Che0063 —thanks for your inputs. I get a feeling it's the touchpad driver, too, but I can't be sure. This is the power draw, with ThrottleStop, HWiNFO, PowerPoint and four tabs open in Chrome:


Here is Task Manager's Details Page with CPU time enabled:


And here's Process Explorer's CPU usage window:


And this is an expansion of what System uses:


At this point I am completely lost.

 

Can you post this tab from task manager? Processes then Processor.

 

Thanks, understood! Looking forward to updates.

One thing also noticed, that when Windows 10 starts, something overrides Power Limits settings even if it set in BIOS.
For example, I change long power limit from 7W to 10W in BIOS - BIOS shows 10W long power limit accordingly.
Then after Windows Starts fresh installed XTU shows 10W as Default, but only 7W as Active, which is weird. Then I can manually adjust Active Power Limit to 10W in XTU, but it will drop down on the next system boot.
The only measure I found is to set 10W in both BIOS and XTU and then on reboot - lock in BIOS Power Limit adjustment - in order not to allow any of Windows services move it back to 7W. Now I have stable 10W.

I don't know what service except XTU and TT may effect Power Limits in Windows (I have reinstalled both of the utilities), but it may be a reason why TT cannot change the Long Power Limit.

Also sometimes happened, that changing Short Power limit (15W) below long Power Limit (10W), for example to 6W in TT, effected both of Limits (that it's logical that Long Limit couldn't be greater than Short), but when putting back to 15W, Long limit also changed to 10W for a while (1-2 min of OCCT) and then suddenly dropped to it's manufacturer set 7W. So looks like something in Windows overrides user settings (XTU was deleted in this case).

 

If TS 8.70 doesnt then would my M.B qualify for a issuing RMA request as the M.B is still under warranty because I recently replaced it? Or would BIOS issues not qualify for issuing a RMA? Also it doesnt PL2 on startup all the time, with registers not being set properly be issuing a PL2 all the time. I have intermittent PL2 throttling, it's not a constant issue.

 

Still your screenshots shows or leads that it is a driver issues due to Packages C states residency are having a hard time to go lower C States.

One small little advice... Never ever install drivers from OEM ! (in your case DELL website) because they never update them and they're always old and outdated drivers and they cause problems and even BSOD!

Best way to obtain the latest drivers is from
https://www.station-drivers.com/ind...ntainers&id=5&sort_order=0&Itemid=353&lang=en
and https://drivers.softpedia.com you just need to know or learn how to search

OEM drivers are always $hitty drivers unfortunately it is the truth... except BIOS's & software's that is made for your laptop models then it is ok but drivers.... don't touch them

Using Chrome will always have high power usage because firstly Chrome will force your windows to use timer resolution to 1 which will cause higher power consumption due to entering C States less frequently.

Secondly... task manager [If you put refreshing speed to high] will always use cpu cycles so take that into account and As I can see your [System Idle Procce] is 98 which is fairly good... so to my point of view this is a faulty drivers.

I know that because I experienced those problems. At the end it's your choice

 

With all due respect, here is the driver download page for the Precision 7530:


Regardless, I am inclined to agree that it is indeed a driver issue.

Here you go:


Compare the C0 in ThrottleStop versus the readout in Task Manager.

 

Okay, well I think it is clear now thaht it is not your CPU causing that 15W drain rate. Your C0% and C7% are horrendous but your CPU should be the least of your worries. If you have two PCIe SSDs, maybe they are causing the issue. How much does the power consumption drop by (if any) if you take out your non-boot ssd? Did you enable HIPM/DIPM/DevSleep in power settings as per my guide?. What is your screen brightness percentage? On full brightness whilst idle my laptop drains about 7W (300 nits). Do you have any devices plugged in? A mouse, or a hub? What if you disable wifi/ethernet or sound or backlight? Are your fans running? If so, consider changing the fan curve if possible.

I mean I can't think of any possible reason for a laptop draining 15W whilst having the CPU using only 2W. The CPU by far is the most energy hogging device. Your CPU idling at 44C is a tad interesting. Unless you are in a room that has 30+ room temperature, your CPU should be idling in the low to mid 30s. Are you SURE the dedicated GPU is off? It should read 0C. Maybe it's just poor cooling, idk.

Driver issue? Maybe. But certainly not related to the CPU, because that would be visible in a high CPU power drain.

 

Believe me.. Dell information is all wrong & never trust them , all those drivers on 3 September 2018 is the date that they posted it on there website but not the latest drivers

I'm just gonna give you some quick examples those drivers that are posted on Dell website compared to what I have on my own laptop :-

Look at those driver versions and others.. and do the same with other pictures too






All those are just quick looking.. what about if I keep looking deeper... oh I'm very sure it will be such a disappointment , OEM in general not just only dell.. will never care they are ready to lie to you that it is the latest version while it is not

and just to let you know.. all those example are only Intel drivers! what about Realtek,nVidia,Qualcomm, etc... I'm sure they are outdated too if I looked deeper

OEM=Full of lies! and that is why I am saying again and again... look on your drivers and update those old drivers

Exactly !

Knowledge is Power

 

After selecting high performance plan, speedshift values are applied correctly. It's the nitrosense app which is changing power plan and somehow that is interfering with throttlestop settings. It seems to have solved now. Thanks once again