The ThrottleStop Guide

No problem. Just like I thought, your Core i5-480M is a 1st Generation Core i CPU. Many of the new features in ThrottleStop 8.00 only apply to the latest 4th Generation Core i CPUs. I think ThrottleStop 8.00 is better than ThrottleStop 6.00 but many users with 1st Generation CPUs are still quite happy with version 6.00. Since ThrottleStop 8.00 was released, there has been virtually zero feedback in this forum from 1st Gen owners so to be honest, I don't even know if TS 8.00 works properly or not. I have been thinking about buying an old laptop to do some proper testing but I have decided to sit and wait for some feedback instead. Feedback is always cheaper than spending money out of my pocket on an old laptop that I don't need.

The Core i5-480M has a locked maximum multiplier so you cannot use software to overclock the multiplier. These CPUs do not report Voltage ID or Package Power or Package Temperature. There is no Limit Reasons information to report, TDP Throttle is not reported and I don't think package level PROCHOT is reported either. I am not 100% sure about that last item so I might double check. I have never owned a 1st Gen Core i CPU and I have only had my hands on one for a few days many years ago. A little surprising that ThrottleStop works as well as it does on these CPUs. Brian over at Tech|Inferno did a lot of testing for me with his 920XM. That is the 1st Generation CPU that you should save up for. It was a beast and still is a beast. If you had a 920XM, a lot more ThrottleStop features would be unlocked and available to you.

SLFM is grayed out because that feature was only available on some of the Core 2 mobile CPUs.

Just for your info; Clock Modulation, Chipset Clock Modulation and Set Multiplier will not work unless you also click on the Turn On button and take ThrottleStop out of monitoring mode and into active mode.

I always like hearing from happy users. I am glad that I took the time to add 6 core support to ThrottleStop 8.00 and it is nice to see that ThrottleStop appears to be working correctly on a computer that is running Windows XP. I don't have access to any computers with this operating system so when programming, I try to be careful so ThrottleStop continues to work properly. I try to keep away from fancy stuff that is not backwards compatible.

I am not sure when or if a final version of ThrottleStop 8.00 will be released. There have been a few minor bugs reported so at the moment, I am planning to release a TS 8.00 beta 3 version and I will probably just extend the expiration date a few more months and continue to search forums around the globe for some feedback. Google translate is my friend.

I don't spend too much time in the summer working on this project. There are always a few more features I would like to add including support for Intel's next generation of CPUs if Intel ever get around to releasing them.

 

Hello Mr. unclewebb

Can i have only for me a expiration date free Version of ThrottleStop 8.00 beta 2 or 3 ?
I know only RunAsDate from Nirsoft for Fake Date. I'm really dependent on your program.

regards xenocracy_2001

PS: XP Mode for Windows 8 or 7

Windows XP Mode
VMLite XP Mode
w-ww.microsoft.com/en-US/download/details.aspx?id=8002
w-ww.vmlite.com/index.php?option=com_rokdownloads&view=file&Itemid=166

more interesting Software:
Infinite_Screen_v1.72.exe (Virtual Display Resolution Expander)
ynea.futureware.at/cgi-bin/infinite_screen.pl

 

Hello @ unclewebb

I'm using a dual core i5 520m (2.40 - 2.933 ghz on turbo) t410 thinkpad but I just can't make this program to work.

I press the turn on button, with the max multiplier available but I can't see any change...






I had to use 'Ts Bench' option to see my CPU go with a 20x multipiler that made a 2.660 ghz clock (not even 2.933 as Intel promises).





Please help!

Thanks and greetings.

 

have you set min CPU state to 100% in the power options?
I own a desktop Core i5-760 - can check the tool too if i can find some time to do so....

 

Sorry for the delayed reply, been working like a maniac lately to earn some extra cash for the family, but digress, I didn't use this laptop for gaming out the box so i'm not sure how it handled a pressure test back then, i use the pea method of thermal compound application to disburse any air pockets, I'm using MX-2 so it's not the cheap stuff, but are your recommended pastes much better than this?

By co-incidence this is also a Packard Bell EasyNote TS11, how weird is that!!! After my initial application of MX-2 and replacing thermal pads with K5-PRO (after some research I might add), the laptop performed well for maybe 1 month, but after that it rapidly deteriorated to its current state.

It would be great to get any feedback on your mates TS11 now, the fan control in the last few BIOs releases is non existent, its like there isn't a fan in there at times, and the only solution I found was the reduced voltage unlocked BIOS,people did try to probe the bios fan settings but it was a no go with the guys over at BIOS Mods, I could swear the older standard BIOS versions had better fan control though.

I tried tons of programs to get info on the fan but it seem its independent and un-accessible in any form, however a full report from HWiNFO game me the following:

Cooling Device ------------------------------------------------------------

Type: Fan
Description:Cooling Device Description.
Status: OK
Nominal Speed: 2000 RPM

I can tell you that the fan installed is the following as I have inspected it and, cleaned it in the past due to this problem:

TS11 SB-104FR SB-125 SB-125FR

I'm not sure if any of this info helps you guys with ideas, but I really appreciate your time!!!

 

If it's the same as this one, then it's a pretty good fan, actually. Not terribly powerful (1W out of 2.5W max.), but relatively quiet. Sunon part numbering has changed, but think the old "H" (now "1") means it was designed for 3000-4000 rpm peak. Perhaps old bios will report a higher value?

One thing that's sure to help is to clip the tachy wire (yellow, probably); it'll run as fast as it can, whatever the rpm. Need to splice in a manual switch then (or accept the noise). Alternative is to use a higher power fan. Seems there are two options; 2.25W Adda or 2.5W XFR (?). Both are high-rpm as well and will be noisier, but if the original did only 0.5W then even 1.25W would solve cooling issues. Do check the actual sticker on your fan first, not the PB part number; don't want to end up with same fan you have now.

Of course, only proper fix would be a good fan table ...

 

I rechecked the fan, because I never knew they were all so different, they all looked the same to me before you enlightened me, and that was simply a replacement part I planned to purchase many moons ago...

Anyway this is my fan 100% I just opened the laptop and took down the manufacturer, model No and voltages:




Delta Electronics - DC 5V 0.40A Bare Fan KSB06015HA - 7G86

Seems like its really lacking some power, I guess it now makes more sense why the report said 2000 rpm, I really liked the idea of using a switch when gaming but its an old fan anyway and it's probably best to give the bearings a rest and upgrade to something with a bit more juice as suggested.

If I swap in a 2.25W Adda or 2.5W XFR fan will automatically use the designated voltage and improve cooling? or would I need to splice and solder in a switch on one of the wires (Yellow).

This is really educational so thank you for your messages buddy.

p.s. I'm using a Belkin CoolSpot Anywhere Ultra at the moment but its kinda useless, it has 2 fans but it feels like they are hardly moving, its silent but totally useless as a cooling fan since no relevant amount of cool air is pushed i through the vents.

 

It's pretty powerful (and noisy) in theory, similarly a high rpm model. Unless it's defective, those other two wouldn't be much better ... it's not a MagLev though, so it might need grease (if it's seen much use). Clip off the top cover and pull on the blade section, it'll lift a bit and snag. Pull further and it'll be pop free from the tiny pcb, then drop some Vaseline or the like in the bushing. Also try and see if you can make out the markings on the pcb where the three wires are soldered on. Using proper, universally-agreed-upon colours for the different wire functions is, sadly, too la-ti-da in the world of fan manufacturers ... So check red goes to "+" (voltage) first.

Since you have access; hook ~5V battery between ground and voltage, can prop tiny paperclips in the connector to make it easier. The way it's running then is the maximum output of that particular fan. If bios is indeed root cause, then you'll know soon enough; noise and air volume pushed will be quite remarkable. If it's just as whimsy as before then a new fan might just help ...

The tachy/yellow reports rpm to the bios/ec, using a fan table it increases or decreases voltage (or, perhaps, amps) until the fan reports the rpm the fan table deems appropriate for a specific temperature (applies to 3x-wire type only; 4x/5x use pwm). If the table says ' 90°C = 2000 rpm' ... well ... not so good if the fan that's hooked up needs, say, 4000 rpm to push the most cfms. In this situation, the best fan is the one rated for the lowest rpm, but still uses ~2-2.5W. If so, best find out what each is rated for (Delta, Adda and XFR) and get whichever has the lowest max. rpm.

To be sure; bios/ec are 'blind' to whatever's plugged into the fan connector; could attach anything 5V with a tachy, e.g. a USB-powered windmill thingy (USB is also 5V). Without tachy might also work, but not all systems are happy with that; my Clevo assumes the worst if it powers the connector and doesn't receive rpm signal in return. In this situation it'll auto-shutdown after 10x blinking, so clipping the tachy wire is not an option.

Laptop cooler won't help; air pressure against heatsink has to be as high as possible and it's much too far away to do any good. Try a hair dryer up close (set to 'cold'); much better .

 

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Core_... I5-520M CP80617004119AE (BX80617I5520M).html

Intel only promises that when 2 cores are active, the maximum multiplier will be 20. That is what ThrottleStop is showing you. The 22 multiplier is only available when a single core is active. It is impossible to get the 22 multiplier when both cores are active. There is nothing that ThrottleStop or any software can do about that. Your only option would be to buy a different CPU with that feature. The Extreme CPUs were specifically designed for this purpose but CPUs like the 520M do not have an unlocked multiplier feature.

When lightly loaded, the multiplier in these CPUs constantly varies as the CPU continuously adjusts the multiplier based on how many cores are active at any instant in time. This is happening hundreds if not thousands of times per second. With an unlocked CPU you can get a steady multiplier when lightly loaded but you will not see that when using one of these mobile CPUs. These CPUs also have individual threads and cores rapidly entering and exiting various low power C States.

 

It's strange. I made it work yesterday. I mean set x20 (too hot temps) or x18 wothout variation. But... now just it does not work now...

And how can I set min CPU state to 100%?

Thank you so much.

 

Go into the Control Panel - Power Options



Remember to use the High Performance profile.

ThrottleStop can be used to control your CPU multiplier if you are setting it to a value less than the default value. On many CPUs, you might not have the same control when you are trying to control the CPU multiplier when Turbo Boost is being used. Some CPUs only allow two options; full Turbo Boost or no Turbo Boost. The 1st Gen Core i CPUs were like this.

 

Hi,
Thank you for this great software. I am using it with my Lenovo Y50 which has a throttling problem. CPU is 4720Hq. My first question is what will be the safe multiplier for this cpu?
Second question My OS is Win 8.1 I cant find a way to start throttle stop in tray.
I apply the steps for task scheduler that are mensioned in the forum. It works fine but I want to minimize it to system tray not into the taskbar. I've checked the settings 'minimize to taskbar' and 'minimize on close'.
Kind regards...

 

Concerning changing profile to "high performance" I WOULDNT RECOMMEND this way when you use notebook PC ...
There can be many other things linked to profile settings which may have great impact on performance/powersavings balance (e.g. display, wifi power, PCIe, graphics e.t.c. and other vendor/hardware specific features) ...
IMHO better usage scenario is to use power-profile change depends on active TS profile...
There are cool feature called "Run program after profile changed"
Just put there command "powercfg.exe -s {GUID-OF-DESIRED-PROFILE}" to automatically activate it...
Then you can adjust power savings in this profile in DC and BATTERY mode (processor performance range in % as well as other devices, you can even limit number of cpu cores active like https://bitsum.com/parkcontrol/ does)
In this case DONT USE POWER SAVER FEATURE of ThrottleStop utility as it would conflict with windows power scheme)
This usage scenario gives you a lot more flexibility & balance your performance and makes TS powersaver functionality redundant but favor other settings provided by TS.

if someone interested - I can do more detailed post about such configuration ... (for intel 4xxx series processor)

 

Under "Options" window select "Start minimized" & "Minimize on close" checkboxes to be happy

 

To start TS automatically please in "schedule tasks" create task according attached images

 

more attachments

note yellow marked settings as it could help maintain TS app through different system states
Probably change to "Run whether user is logged on or not" to allow it to run at system start ...
event there are corresponding trigger i'm unsure if it really start or not...

 

Hi vas thank you for your answer. I've followed the steps and created a schedule task. It is working fine. After I log in software starts and throttlestop windows appears. Then I minimize the window. It stays in both taskbar and notification area. When I try to only uncheck the 'minimize on close' setting, software closes totally. I tried the other way (check/uncheck start minimized) around too nothing is changed. I think I have to live with that.

 

Hi again vas,

Can you explain the process?

 

Do one more change: uncheck "Task bar" on the TS main window

 

First of all get the list of available power profiles you have:
Then make settings similar to the screen bellow:

Note "default profiles" section which allow you to set automatic profile switching based on current system state
as well as "Run Program After Profile Change" (put proper profile GUID for every profile from 1st step. use UP-DOWN arrows to switch between profiles)

Optionally assign keyboard shortcuts to switch profiles so you can easy switch current power plan & TS profile without leaving currently running app

 

Main settings leave like this (do it for every profile):

Notes:
1) do not enable "power saver" feature to avoid conflict
2) do not set multiplier to specified value - do it through power-plan settings

optionally enable/disable throttling (clock modulation) if you want to

Then configure voltage FOR EVERY PROFILE. Mine looks like:

Your's FID/VID settings may vary depends on processor

Select appropriate turbo ratio limits to avoid thermal throttling.
Most of time you can get higher limits for "WORK" profile than "GAME" ...
cos of WORK tasks load usualy have short load peaks and CPU wont overheat during 15-20 sec of full load.
GAME profile could use multipliers which guarantee CPU temp less than 99 Celsius (else CPU start throttling)

 

I am very happy for your great help. Thank you again. Unchecking taskbar option solved everything so simple is that I am sorry for my simple question.
For all above I will try to apply the settings. I ve some questions about settings.
1- Some Y50 owners told that I've to uncheck BD prochot do I have to uncheck it?
2- I ve 960m nvidia gpu Do I have to check Nvidia GPU setting?.
3- You have 4900mq pretty fast cpu and I think you dont need to change the multiplier
I ve to set it something like 30T

 

1 - you don't if you not suffer overheat
2 - yes, check it
3 - I didn't. as you can see - I left it at 100 x 38. but turbo multiplier for 2,3 and 4 active cores I tuned up.
actually this CPU cant run even at 100 x 40 - it BSOD sometimes even in stock voltage ... (as you can see I can run it at 100 x 38 little undervolted and absolutely stable)

 

What laptop do you have that lets a 4900MQ hit 90c+ at 3.4GHz with a 85mV undervolt?

 

it's been a while since I've checked this one ... and obviously may need to upgrade since I'm still using v4.00

glad to see unclewebb is still on top of it though

 

Possibly an HP Envy 15.

@vas The i7-4900MQ default VID table is for up to default 38x multi therefore if you try to run 40x at defaults it will use about the same voltage as 38x VID. To use 40x try adaptive or fixed voltage. Nice post with powercfg. Tip, using aliases where possible instead of GUID makes it easier to remember and read.

For example for minimum power savings (max performance)

instead of "powercfg -s 8c5e7fda-e8bf-4a96-9a85-a6e23a8c635c" one can use "powercfg -s scheme_min"

List of aliases can be found using "powercfg -aliases"

 

Thanks @vas for showing us how to use ThrottleStop to change Windows power profiles.

Thanks @Dufus for the simplified approach. Here is a list of power profiles that my laptop supports.

http://i.imgur.com/ApOg3nk.png

 

Throttlestop does not work under windows 10. I just got the update a short while ago.
I guess back to Windows 8.1 for me

Any ideas when you will support Windows 10? I was on throttlestop 7.00 beta 3

 

See the first post and try TS 8 instead.

 

I havent upgraded to win10 yet. Is TS8 is working under windows 10? I cant find the answer in fisrt post, thanks...

 

Are you running the official version of Windows 10? ThrottleStop was working OK on one of the Windows 10 beta versions that I was using but that was a while ago. If Microsoft has decided to block ThrottleStop then there is nothing that I am going to be able to do about that. The end of an era.

As mentioned, you can try ThrottleStop 8.00 from my sig but it probably doesn't work either.

 

I am running Win8.1x64. But planing to upgrade win10. If TS is not working I wont upgrade
I have another question. I've set up TS with vas's suggestions. But when I set the multiplier at 32T TDP icon flashes cpu down clocks at 3000-3100mhz. Attached the screenshot. I only undervolt my cpu about -49.8mV which is the closest to -50mV as you said previously on the posts. What should I do?. I am not a gamer just sometimes play games. I will be using my laptop most of the time rendering. What will be your suggestions? My computer is Y50 with 4710hq...
Thanks. Great work Unclewebb, Lenovo should pay you...

 

@methyn - The Intel website shows that the Core i7-4720HQ CPU has a TDP of 47 Watts. Intel designs their CPUs so they will automatically throttle, adjust the CPU speed, so power consumption does not exceed this 47 Watt limit. The Limit Reasons tool shows that PL1 is in red so that means your CPU is throttling because it is trying to exceed the 47 Watt TDP limit. ThrottleStop confirms that you are up against this wall because it is showing 46.9 Watts. The multiplier being reported for each thread shows an average of 30.93 which also confirms the CPU is doing a little bit of throttling. That's too bad because it looks like the heatsink and fan are capable of cooling a CPU with a higher TDP limit.

You could try lowering the voltage a little more. If you have only lowered the CPU Core voltage then I would suggest also lowering the CPU Cache voltage as well as the Intel GPU voltage. This will help lower power consumption so the CPU should be able to run a little faster before throttling sets in. -50 mV is a good place to start but some CPUs might run reliably at -60 mV or -70 mV or -80 mV. Every CPU is unique so this kind of tweaking is all trial and error.

If anyone else has upgraded to Windows 10, can you try running ThrottleStop 8.00 as well as ThrottleStop 6.00. In the TS6 download from TechPowerUp, ThrottleStop.exe was signed so maybe this older version will work with Windows 10. If that is the only thing limiting TS8 from starting up, it will be easy to solve this problem. If Windows 10 does not like ThrottleStop because it uses the WinRIng0 driver, it might be a while before there is a solution. WInRing0 has been out of development for many years.

Edit - If you are trying to get ThrottleStop running in WIndows 10, make sure you specifically use the Run as Administrator option. Right click on the icon and see if that is an option in the menu that pops up.

 

HP Envy 15T j100 with recently updated theremopaste can run stable at settings above and never hit more than 95C even under benchmark.

PS: On stock thermopaste (1.5 years old) it wasn't able to handle 3.0 GHz without throttling under ~1min heavy load. So it always an option to refresh thermopaste as well as remove dust from cooling system

 

Thanks for your suggestions Unclewebb. I tried to undervolt my cpu, cpu cache and gpu core voltage to -95mv. And with the help of a coolermaster notebook cooler I render about 45min cpu only down clocks about 15-25 seconds to around 32T-31.2T. Other than that stays on the limit 32T. Should I need to set the voltage of cpu, cpu cache, gpu core as the same about what will be the safe limits. Is there another setting should I set?

 

Try bumping your CPU current limit a bit and see if it helps this be steady. You don't need to undervolt CPU cache for the most part, I think, if it causes any instabilities.

 

Thanks for the reply I will set it today at home...

 

Is there any reason you set your limit to 32 T? For my 4700MQ, I use the overclocking feature. My multipliers look like this.



Now that you are doing some under volting, you might be able to raise your multiplier. There is nothing wrong with the CPU doing some throttling based on power consumption. That is what these CPUs were designed to do so I just run my CPU wide open and if it needs to throttle, so be it.

Those 3 voltages are the most productive ones that you can adjust to lower power consumption. They do not have to be set to the exact same values. Any values you choose will be safe but if you go too far, the CPU will no longer be stable. It might crash when fully loaded but is more likely to crash when lightly loaded so you need to check for both when lowering your voltages. If you get a Blue Screen, you have gone too far.

I think the Lenovo Y50 has the current limit set appropriately. I know my Y510P uses a limit of 85 A which is more than enough. The 47 W limit is what holds my 4700MQ back. If current limit is a limiting factor, EDP will light up in the Limit Reasons program but his screenshot does not show that happening.

Where are the ThrottleStop Windows 10 testers? Come on guys, the suspense is killing me. I hope someone gets this working.

 

Wow, that's pretty good. My default is 72A, and I know I needed to raise it when I was undervolting, so I was just making sure his is set decently.

I'll have a friend test (aka I'll harass him) for us soon. I need to check if Win 10 has issues anyway with the CPU load like Windows 8 has. I refuse to touch Windows 10 until I can get it fresh-installed without hassle (likely with a new key as well, as I'm not giving up this win 8 key for nothing, and upgrading REQUIRES you to use the upgrade tool and not clean install).

 

No, upgrading is not required.

See:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10


Run the program after you download it and select create ISO (or use a USB disk) to do a clean install.

 

Unclewebb, I think there is something wrong with your attached image. Can you post it again. Thank you for your help...

 

Upgrading is required if you're coming from Windows 7/8. You have to do an in-place upgrade first so that your activation gets transferred to 10, then you can do a clean install with the ISO.

 

http://i.imgur.com/C1axeQw.png

I only posted the left side of the FIVR window. It shows the turbo multipliers that I am using. No need to show the whole window.
Maybe I am working on some new features so the right side is still a secret.

 

As @octiceps said, it is for license transferring. I'll be getting a separate license for Win 10 in the future; I'm not giving up my Win 8 license especially that way. Upgrades ALWAYS.
ALWAYS.
ALWAYS.
Screws something up. Even if you don't notice right away, it does. I remember vista > 7 was a pain, and 7 > 8 caused slow boot times and even left Microsoft Security Essentials installed, and I couldn't uninstall it to go to win 8.1 because the installer was required to uninstall and the installer would see I'm on Win 8 and refuse to run (even though the program was indeed functional on Win 8 in its entirety). Among a whole host of other issues I had that I didn't even notice were issues until I had freshly installed Win 8. Even upgrading from Win 8 to Win 8.1 is not good. It's preferable to clean install a fresh 8.1 copy.

 

Okay, I'll stand corrected.

And to be 100% clear; I don't EVER recommend upgrading from one O/S version to another in any case.

(Use the download link to try it (you can install it clean with no key...) and if happy; buy a new license).

 

[QUOTE="unclewebb,
Maybe I am working on some new features so the right side is still a secret. [/QUOTE] I am excited about the next version...

 

Latest Throttlestop is working fine for me with Windows 10.

Gesendet von meinem XT1032 mit Tapatalk

 

Thanks, that is great news. I appreciate hearing that and I am sure a lot of other users will appreciate hearing that too.

Windows 10 looks OK but I hate being a lab rat. Microsoft discovered a new way to beta test their software and this new way doesn't cost them anything. Thanks for saving me some time and a lot of downloading. Someday I will join the herd but this month, I think I will use my bandwidth for Netflix instead.

 

@unclewebb I wouldn't take W10 problems with TS personally, has also created problems with other users trying to install XTU and even when some have succeeded apparently XTU drops some options that were previously available.

@D2 Ultima some of the W8 updates for incoming W10 may have already screwed your W8 system with corrupt files. Check with DISM / SFC. I was eager to upgrade to W10 but given some of the posts out there I'm now reluctant to the point of downloading Fedora and Android for x64 just in case, will see what the next week or so brings before deciding.

 

Well ACTUALLY... I have become a mini Mr. Fox XD