*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Could unsolder the socket and add a replacement. Though if in the US, there's some 2510P for parts units on ebay sitting at US$20 from which you could salvage the systemboard from to save you the trouble.

Swapping out the systemboard is quite easy. Just need a T10 torx and small phillips head screwdriver to do it + thermal paste to redress the CPU.

 

I just bought a toshiba 240GB zif drive to install into my 2510p. When I install it the system doesn't recognize the drive. I either get it saying a 1780 Disk 0 - Run Startup Check. I did the check and said all was fine however I was not able to install an OS because it cannot find the drive. Help please

 

As explained here:

Consider then a smaller "compatible" 120GB ZIF HDD or go an optical bay caddy solution instead. 9.5mm 2.5" PATA HDDs go up to 320GB, 2.5" SATA HDDs go up to 750GB in capacity.

 

Thank You. I should have asked before I bought the drive.

 

I wanted to ask again for it .. is this even possible? (Do you know the offset for DSDT fan entrys in F.0A? - I just need the 40pct fan mod.)

The newmodus caddy does work in slave mode without bios hang, but it hangs after it about 20-30 seconds bootin ubuntu with an sata timeout. I will try if this also happens with F.0A later.. I really begin to dislike these sata caddys.

Edit: Here some Dmesg Logs from Boot:

As you see, it hangs about 32 seconds. Does anyone (nando?) know how to correct this? Is it because of slave? If i put it in master mode, it hangs in bios for 30 seconds .. so basically no real difference, just the point where it hangs. Is Vertex 2 too fast for 2510p? ..

 

the fan in my 2510p is begining to be very noisy. like it's scratching something now and then. also I'm in thailand where it's hot most of the time, so it's most of the time on full fan speed. so noisy..

so I was wondering:
1) where can I get a spare fan (link and partnumber if possible). if more than one type, any silent but still good cooling ones?
2) is it easy to replace? by the look of the chasis it seems hard - i.e open it all.... any one done it before? any guides to how it it's done?

 

See disassembly guides on the first post. It's pretty easy to do once you've done it once. Fan part number will be in the Maintenance And Service Guide.

It may well be that your screeching noise is due to the protective plastic around the CPU lifting, impeding the fan rotation. I had that happen. Sticky taping the black plastic down gets rid of the noise.

Confirmed. The SF1222 based Renice X3 also has a hang with the newmodeus caddy when set as master. Not sure why. The ebay caddy has no problems.

 

I am trying to upgrade the memory in my 2510p. I got a 4GB DDR2 PC2-5300 667MHZ SODIMM 200PIN memory chip. This appears to be the correct one from crucial et al. It only shows as 2gb in the bios and in W7 64. I upgraded the bios and this did nothing. Any suggestions

 

Have you tried the RAM in another system to ensure the module is in fact 4GB? There are two successful 4GB 2510P upgrades on the first page so it certainly is possible. There's a small chance the bios is storing old data to do with 2GB so worth unplugging all power sources, unplug/replug the RTC/CMOS battery in memory compartment, press and hold the power button for 30 secs then try again.

 

I unfortunately don't have another system that can use that memory. I have to suspect it is failed memory, but would have suspected memory would work or not work - not half work.

I did the steps you recommended but it still sees 2g. It had a 1g stick in it and showed 1g until I put the 4g in - it just then showed 2g. I was hoping there was a cmos or other setting or maybe this particular configuration couldn't handle it. I do know I have win 7 64 running and it doesn't complain (other than swapping)

 

Strange. A possibility is it could be populated with 4GB but have a 2GB SPDtable entry. To confirm that download Thaiphoon Burner and use it's database to lookup the RAM SPDTable details to ensure it really is a 4GB module.

Other way would be to ID the size of the individual chips on the RAM, add them up and ensure it's actually got 4GB of chips onboard.

Easiest way to diagnose if the problem is with the 2510P or the RAM would by to just put the RAM in another system and see if it comes up as 2GB or 4GB.

 

Hi!
I have a question: anybody tried to swap cases between 2510p and 2530p. I saw that keyboard is fully compatybile so maybe cases too?
Anybody tried something like this?

Should manuals tell me the truth?

 

Closest being a reverse of what you want - a 2530P systemboard swap was attempted into a NC2400 here.

There is a different latch on the 2530P meaning you'd it's LCD + top cover. The webcam mod means that the 2530P's webcam could be connected.

Would certainly be interested in your results if you did try this.

 

Ok, so after quick research, what I need:
Top lcd case: http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/6391/1418044991.jpg
Inside lcd case: http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3245/46604367.jpg
palmrest: http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5162/1418045752.jpg

Price: 30$ for used, shipping included so worth trying

And the most important thing bottom part, and I cannot find it. Because of different latch and screw-holes on the bottom side probably will be problem with fitting motherboard.

If there will be any progress I will let you know.

2530p motherboard:
http://nokotion.en.alibaba.com/viewimg/picture.html?picture=http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/390794149/492551_001_492552_001_2530P_motherboard_withSL9400.jpg
2510p motherboard:
http://nokotion.en.alibaba.com/viewimg/picture.html?picture=http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/390803572/451720_001_451719_001_2510P_motherboard_with.jpg

In fact CPU and GPU are in different places, ram. I will wait for answer if there is a bottom part, and decide what to do. Will let you know.

 

Before you over capitalise, consider there are 4x SU9300-1.2 2530P units on ebay-US for < $350. Might make more economic sense to sell the 2510P and buy 2530P. You'd get dual-RAM slots, SATA, 45nm Penryn CPU and newer chassis, maybe even a webcam.

 

I also upgraded my 2510p RAM to 4GB from crucial.com - worked under XP(32b) and Win7(64b), recognized max allowed by OS.

 

nando4,

I recently purchased this BIOS SPI programmer on ebay to hotflash my bios to unlock the setup password. My bios chip is ATMEL 26DF321, which is supported by this flasher.

What do you think?

 

Never had to do this, but I've added an entry to the first page on how it should be possible to unlock the password:

• Resetting a forgotten bios password - requires a $20 master password OR try the free utilities instead.

Please report if this works for you. Using the SPI flasher would work also if you can get save a eeprom dump from a non password protected 2510P and copy it to your eeprom. You'd just need to use the DMI utilities on the first page to update it with your systems serial/model details.

 

nando4, I don't know how to get that lock code from entering wrong password three time. When I boot up the system and press F10 to enter ROM Based setup, it asks for password, but it doesn't give me any code, just an asterisk. Am I doing something wrong?

Also, should the update bios image from hp download work? I don't know whether the flasher has the capability to copy image from the bios chip or not. Is there a utility somewhere that can save a copy of my unlocked bios? i have two 2510p.

Thanks.

 

The free utilities page says

Otherwise your SPI eeprom burner will have software so you can save a dump of your non-password protected 2510P bios chip. Then can copy that dump to your password protected bios chip. Before saving a bios image, consider erasing or setting dummy model/serial details using the HPDMIFIT utilities. Then you can upload and link to this forum so others can use it in the future if they need it.

I believe the HP BIOS file supplied for the 2510P can't be directly copied to the bios chip using an eeprom burner. The flasher does some rearranging of the data.

 

Did you actually try the F2 or F12 key on the 2510p? Mine doesn't have that options to enter bios setup. All I have are F2(boot menu) and F10(ROM Based setup). F12 key directs me to network booting.

 

I have a Dell XT laptop, WIN7 Pro, Core Duo 1.3, 3gbRAM, 60% HD Free, Zif-Pata HD connector. Just installed the Renice Kevlar E (non-TRIM) SSD,64gb (my digital discount $129.99). My Winodws HD Score is currently at 5.9

It definetly is an improvement over the 4200 RPM HD i had in there before, but the difference isnt mindblowing. I ran some test and they dont compare favorably to the ones I have seen online.

I was wondering if anyone can take a look and tell me what I should do to get better performance. I will take advice, run the changes and post results here. I did run a Sdelete on the C drives Free Space (took over 1 hour). It is new only 1 week old. Here are the results, let me knowwhat settings/software is available to make this baby fly! Thanks

Test Results: http://tinyurl.com/4n2o7a2

 

Perform the ICH8M tweak discussed here here.

 

thanks nando, i downloaded Baredit and installed it (win7-64bit) as per website it is supported.

When i double click the icon it displays an error
"The Driver TVICPort cannot be found!"

 

thanks nando, i downloaded Baredit and installed it (win7-64bit) as per website it is supported.

When i double click the icon it displays an error
"The Driver TVICPort cannot be found!" , anyway to resolve this issue (i did reboot) thanks

 

Hello.
A friend's 2510p laptop was damaged in an accident and no-longer worksd but the HDD appears intact and working. Can you advise if it would be possible for me to extract the HDD and put it in an external disk enclosure? If so, which external disk enclosure would you recommend?
Many thanks,
Garrie

 

Any ebay 1.8" ZIF to USB enclosure will do what you want. Can choose what appearance and delivery time you want from those listed.

 

Hello,
Has anyone else had a malfunctioning battery charging circuit on his/her HP 2510p? I haven't identified which component is faulty. I replaced the AO4407 MOSFET but this didn't fix it. Any hints?

GarriePowers: If your friend is getting rid of his/her motherboard; I'm interested! Please contact me by private message.

Many thanks,

Thomas

 

Have you already tried replacing the battery as a faulty battery can produce the same symptoms but you may have already done this if your looking at swapping out the MB.

 

Folks,

Gone a bit quiet on here so I hope someone notices this!

Will one of these work as an upgrade for the slow HDD?

SuperTalent MasterDrive GF PATA 1.8" ZIF SSD

I just want to be 100% sure before I splash the cash.

Thanks in advance,
Rick

 

It will probably work, but why not get the better SuperTalent ZT2 with the Eastwho EWS720 controller for $135 instead? Can be had for even less if can find a superbiiz coupon like the -$15 one they had a month of two back. See

$135 60GB Super Talent 1.8 inch 64GB DuraDrive ZT2 ZIF Solid State Drive(MLC)

More info and comparisons are in http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...-1-8-zif-pata-ssds-available.html#post6861746

 

Thanks for the quick response, it's much appreciated.

Ah... I was tempted by the ZT2 from MemoryC for £20 more, but they are out of stock.

Unfortunately by the time I add shipping + VAT to the drive from SuperBiiz, it comes to £140 ($231) which is more than I want to spend.

Am I right in thinking that despite not being the cutting edge, the MasterDrive GF is still going to blow my socks off after suffering the original HDD for over a year now..? If so, I guess that'll be good enough... unless any other UK suppliers have the ZT2 in stock. I couldn't find one.

 

In that case may I suggest a £$114 (inc VAT, or £$122-delivered) 60GB Renice K3E (EWS720)? Can read about it: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...e-ews720-zif-ssd-user-review.html#post6952134. Buying that unit from Futurestorage(UK) means you'd be within budget, get a local warranty plus and an extra 1.8" ZIF USB enclosure.

The Masterdrive GF's performance specs match that of a ZIF SSD using a Jmicron or a SM controller. The former with write performance issues, the latter with high power consumption. The EWS720 controller being significantly better on both fronts.

 

Nando4, it's ordered! Thanks for the excellent advice, as ever.

 

Hi everyone,

What a fantastic resource this forum is! I never guessed there would be som many people out there wanting to keep there 2510p's on the road.

I've decided to give mine a new lease of life, and hanving read a lot of the advice here am planning the following upgrades:

• 
  mx-nano 120GB ZIF PATA ssd as new primary drive
  upgrade to 4GB ram
  upgrade from Vista Business 32bit to Win7 64bit

That much I think I am clear on, but I would welcome some advice from you more knowledgeable souls out there as to the best sequence for upgrading the disc and windows; specifically which should I upgrade first - the hard drive or windows?

I know that by going to 64bit Win7 Pro, I will have to do a fresh install of windows whatever order I do things in. To me, it would seem neatest to swap the drives first, then install Win7 on the empty SSD, install programs and copy across my data. But I'm not sure if this will be possible because I am planning on buying a Win 7 upgrade version (which does allow upgrade from 32 to 64 bit). Does anyone know if that means I have to install it on the same hard drive that has Vista installed, so that the upgrade is recognised? If so, I don't think I can follow the sequence I have described above.

Many thanks in advance for your advice

 

try this method - http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...ive-6510b-dvd-bay-improved-5.html#post7468783

worked on my hp 8710p with newmodeus caddy. 8710w is almost identical as 8710p.

 

Hi chaps, I'm having a few annoyances with my 2510p.

When docked (in the ultralite dock) I find that the machine switches off intermittently, it does get quite hot so is clearly some kind of failsafe, but is it poor design by HP for the docking station, or is there any fix I can use to stop it switching it off?

Thanks

 

The horrible Samsung HS082HB HDD has finally failed, so I've purchased a 60Gb MX-Nano to replace it. However, my 2510p does not even recognise that the drive exists.

Is this an hardware incompatability, a failed controller issue, a simple ZIF pin tweak issue, or something else causing this?

Current plan is to sell the nano and get a Renice K3vlar 120Gb which is guranteed to be compatible.

 

I am freshman!

And I want to know witch driver of X3100 is the fastest one in win7??

 

I did once have an issue with a new 2510P ZIF cable itself. While it worked fine with my HDD, connecting my Renice KEVLAR-E SSD resulted in no detection of it. Swapping it with my 'old' ZIF cable saw it miraculously work. Something to consider.

The standard X3100 Win7/64 driver is fine. Could also try the Sherry drivers when they are released in the coming weeks.

The most gains in X3100 performance can be had by performing a 200Mhz_bclk mod or just do software overclocking.

 

So does the MC8781 work on a whitelist-modded 2510p/2710p? I want to purchase a WWAN card for my 2710p and the MC8781 seems to be only a bit more more expensive than the MC8775 and does feature GPS which would come in handy sometimes.
On the same matter: Does anyone have experience on the reception quality in comparison to a WWAN-usbstick?

 

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the good work, I just picked up a cheap 2510p and built it up. Should have bought the Renice SSD though. I got the ZT2 Supertalent, and I'm a bit disappointed by the benchmark. It was only $135 so I can't complain that much, it is pretty snappy. Still can't get the ebay PATA to SATA to work as a slave, but otherwise I have the SSD and AGN 3200 Wifi working.

 

I can't change my FSB speed in Throttlestop and can't set more than a 9x clock multiplier even with the dual ida enabled. Don't know what's wrong. I believe I have the right modded bios flashed.

 

I never got to test my MC8780 with my 2510P, but it does work with my 2530P with a no-whitelist modded bios as shown. Key was to isolate pin20 with cellophane to get it detected. The 3G reception is pretty good. GPS quite useful. Can use Google to navigate/tell you where you are. Only dilemma was that wifi was getting intermittently switched off and the WWAN adds power consumption overhead. The former probably needs the common wifi/wwan LED pin cellophaned as well, the latter solved by using devcon batch file to power on/off the WWAN device + associated USB controller on demand.

Congratulations on your 2510P purchase and welcome to the 2510P Owner's Lounge.

We see from the Marvell pinout that a logic 1 (3.3V) needs to be applied to pin33 to make it run as slave. This was applied to my Topda branded ebay caddy as shown allowing it to run my 500GB HDD (slave) concurrently with my ZIF SSD (master) in my 2510P.

You'll know if the dual-IDA modded bios is active if EIST is not grayed out in Throttlestop. Proceed to enable dual-IDA as described here, skipping steps 1 and 2.

Increase the 2510P's FSB using the freeware setfsb, selecting the ICS9LPRS355BKLF PLL. Described in more detail here.

Try a Tony Trim to increase your SuperTalent ZT2's write speed. It should get up to the 52MB/s sequential writes that I saw with a 60GB Renice K3VLAR-E. Both these ZIF SSDs use the same EWS720 controller.

 

Thanks for the tip Nando, but in the end it wasn't the cable - it was me! Confession time:- when started up with my new mx-nano SSD installed, I got a message saying something like "a bootable drive could not be found, check cables, etc", I jumped to the conclusion that my drive wasn't detected. In fact it was, it was just that the drive was totally clean so wasn't bootable! When I finally twigged that this might be what happening, and booted from my Windows CD, the drive was there and it has been plain sailing from then on.

Now to check my benchmarks, upgrade bios etc etc.

 

Hi Glen,
As you will see above, I got my mx-nano 120GB working. In fact it was probably never not working - it was just me thinking it was unrecognised when it probably was. A couple of tips if they help:-

1. the zif cable goes into the connector with the metal contacts facing UP, AWAY FROM THE DRIVE. I think this is different from most drives/connectors where the metal side would face down towards teh circuit board.

2. The cable inserts only 1mm or 2 at the most

3. If your new drive is blank, you will have to boot from a windows cd or another bootable device. This is the 'dummy' thing that caught me out!!

Good luck

 

OK, I've run the benchmarks on my new MX-nano 120GB. The read results look ok, but the write performance seems poor compared to the standard benchmark results for this drive on the 1.8" drives thread (copied below for comparison.



Can anyone suggest what might be the problem here? The drive was clean, then I put a custom install of Win7 x64 onto it. I formatted the drive at the start, using the utility that is part of the Win7 installation process. O ther than that I have done nothing to it, or my 2510p, which is otherwise as it was when I first bought it new, except for now having 4GB of RAM.

I haven't written much to the disk apart from Windows and office, so I wouldn't have thought I would need to use Tony Trim etc yet?

Any suggestions, anyone, please?

 

Will this DIMM work with the 2510p and is this a good price?

4GB DDR2 1066mhz Sodimm (1x 4GB) - Dino PC Ltd

Just got a used 2510p. Flashed SLIC 2.1 Bios with whitelist removed and installed Win7 x64. Its all working fine but the Toshiba MK6028GAL HD is a bit of a drag.. I have managed to get a cheap 80GB Samsung 5400RPM drive but want a SSD, just can't affort it at the moment.

Andy