*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Sure, here you go!

1. eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

2. yep. even the newmodus would not work as master or slave without a drive in the 1.8" bay. Running whitelisted F10 bios in the 2510p.

3. I put the dvd-rw back into the optical bay. I am presuming the 1.8" zif ssd is master

4. I am using the SSDlife tool ( SSD life - tool for solid state drives health and endurance monitoring) and it is reporting trim is supported and enabled. fsutil command is returning a 0 code. I copied a 9gb file to desktop and deleted it (shift-delete) and there was no freezing.

5. Model: LZT-256 Firmware: ZZA3

CrystalDiskMark Numbers: 5pass 1000MB

seq r: 81.08MB/s w: 63.72MB/s
512k r: 68.87MB/s w: 63.64MB/s
4k r: 14.86MB/s w: 21.22MB/s
4k QD32 r: 17.19MB/s w: 27.29MB/s

My Toshiba THNSNS128GMCP 128GB SSD (fw: TPGABBF0) in the msata-ide adapter in the nc4200 has still had a few hangs with a "No System Disk" error. Its CrystalDiskMark figures as follows:

seq r: 81.40MB/s w: 44.37MB/s
512k r: 79.78MB/s w: 44.11MB/s
4k r: 20.32MB/s w: 24.86MB/s
4k QD32 r: 20.45MB/s w: 30.96MB/s

I am going to be getting a 32GB Sandisk msata SSD to use in my n4200 as it only monitors my solar inverter and 128gb is overkill! Will see if that runs more stable.

 

Thanks ! Very good info ! I'll reply in detail soon.
During the last days I've had some really bad experience on the OCZ forum. It's unbelievable how unprofessional those guys are... censorship at its max. No wonder OCZ is going down...

 

Hi folks,
Thanks for this very informative thread on the hp2510p. As others, i would like to buy a caddy with a marvell chip (trim support) which combined with a 128G kingston SSD would replace the 1,8" toshiba drive as the master drive.
As the shipping to Europe from the chinese ebay resellers is not always possible, are there any caddy with a marvell chip sold on Amazon please ?

Thanks

 

Please read this post here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...7-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-103.html#post8861992
You have to spot the correct model.

 

I would recommend a msata->zif adapter combined with a msata ssd. Way more reliable and you get to keep you dvd-rw drive.

 

Thanks a lot for your reply !
1,2,3: I believe that the caddy with 3 metallic vertical stripes on each side is the older variant of the caddy with only 1 metallic stripe on both sides. The 2 caddies are both Marvell-based, AFAIK. Maybe you got a bad caddy ??

4,5: It's great that the LiteOn mSATA SSD (Marvell-based, similarly to Crucial M4 mSATA) works well with the JM20330 chipset in the mSATA-ZIF adapter ! This can only imply that a Crucial M4 would be equally compatible.

Also, the benchmark results are the best I've seen so far (especially sequential and 4K reads). My OCZ Nocti is quite a bit slower. As I already mentioned, the new firmware 2.25 (based on SandForce 5.0.3 firmware) messed up the TRIM when sent through the JM20330 chip (I get full system freezes in Win 7 when I delete several larger files. Win XP works well... because of no TRIM). The older one, 2.15 (SandForce 3.3.2) worked flawlessly with TRIM under Win7. I'm trying hard to downgrade to 2.22 (SandForce 3.3.4), but no luck yet.

Let's see what the new firmware from OCZ (maybe 2.27) will bring.
If not, I will change the Nocti for a Crucial M4 mSATA 128GB. It looks like the new firmware 04MH works well enough.

Thanks again for your good find !

 

I have the same situtaion. KrypteX posted me prevoiusly a caddy seller on ebay, from whom I even ordered the caddy. But during the payment process I got the message from ebay that the "seller did not define the delivery cost for your country, please contact him for total price". It was more than one week ago, and I still haven't received any feedback from the seller. And the item is still in my "to be paid" list, but I cannot pay it.
On another forum I got the following link with the comment, buy the cheapest
ebay

 

Guys, can I please ask you again to read my previous post here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...7-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-103.html#post8861992

You basically have 4 types of caddies out there. You just need to search on ebay for 9.5 mm SATA PATA or SATA IDE caddy and look for the physical details in the pictures (and have all pictures consistent one with another).
Out of those 4 I can recommend the Fenvi type and the one with 1 vertical metallic stripe. Those are Marvell-based.
If you do this, you'll find lots of possibilities to order from on ebay.

Why don't you try this one ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/270708545...21&ViewItem=&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&afsrc=1
or this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-5mm-IDE-O...bles_dapters&hash=item43b127eea8&afsrc=1#shId

 

Oops, sorry! I missed that somehow. I'll check it. Thanks again!

 

Thanks KrypteX ,
I just bought Amazon.com: Micro SATA Cables - 9.5mm IDE Optical Bay Hard Drive Adapter Caddy: Computers & Accessories which should be similar to your second recomendation 9 5mm IDE Optical Bay Hard Drive Adapter Caddy | eBay

It won't get delivered before 20 or 30 days but i'll tell you how it goes once i get it !
Thanks again.

 

Tell me about it... that seller is no good anymore.

Just received my caddy from that seller you have been linking to. Opened it up:


I was not happy, to say it mildly.

 

Oh shoot ! I'm sorry, man. The seller did not send you the one in the picture at all. It has those 2 holes on the bottom, which is clearly SunPlus-based. You should ask for a refund.

At this point we can't be sure what we are to receive from eBay...

 

Not your fault... I'm not blaming you

You are correct, this is nothing like the pictures... misleading as hell.

I will see what the seller says, and if he makes a fuss about it I will contact PayPal and try to get my money back

 

2510P, U7700 (1.33Ghz), 2Gb RAM, Intel 320 SSD 80GB using the SunPlus caddy. Windows 7 Ultimate with trim disabled. ZIF drive removed. F.0F BIOS

Result:



It's quite snappy... what do you think of the speed test?

 

today my renice ZIF ssd died from one moment to the other. it is not recognized any more, neither by zif-port on 2510p / nc2400 nor with USB caddy.

fortunately I already ordered a week ago a zif-to-msata adapter with an msata SSD, so the waiting-preiod with the harddisc in the notebook is not too long. hopefully this construct will last longer than 1.5 years. :-/

 

Which Zif to msata adapter did you go with ?

 

I am awaiting this one: New cable Adapter f Sandisk PCI-E MSATA 50MM 3.3V SSD to 1.8" CE/ZIF PATA 40pin | eBay

 

pity they are all sold out !! 10 on offer 19 sold

 

50mm New 1 8" CE ZIF PATA SSD Convert Adapter for PCI E mSATA SSD 3 3V | eBay

Here is another one.

 

1..2...3...mine ... think ill give my old 2510p a new lease on life

great little Laptop ... have a 64GB mSATA doing nothing + 20€ and all set

+ 1 rep2u

 

The bench is acceptable, except for the writes. Sequential write could be a little higher (60-65 MB/s) and 4K writes around 15-20 MB/s. Maybe it's because of the smaller 80 GB drive and the SunPlus caddy. Anyway, it should feel very snappy. From now on, the laptop is limited mainly by the processor, which is great !

 

_Cyber_ and Nobackup,
Could you tell us exactly which mSATA drives do you have and post some benches with the mSATA-ZIF adapter, as soon as you have them ?

 

for sure. today the ZIF-to-mSATA adapter arrived, still awaiting the SSD.

 

Got the Marvell caddy from the seller yesterday, had some problems installing it... had to cut away a piece of the plastic located below the pata connector. After that I was able to get the caddy into place. Took the entire yesterday evening troubleshooting that problem... :/

Anyway... did a new benchmark with this caddy:



A bit snappier

 

Nice ! The 4K writes are where they should be: 18.2 MB/s (Marvell) vs 13.3 (SunPlus). That's almost 40% faster !
And sequential speeds went up quite a bit (by 10-20%).

1. What firmware are you running on ? Still on F.0F ? Are the benches run on an overclocked 2510p ?
2. Where did you get the Marvell caddy from ? The same seller you got the SunPlus ?
3. Did you check if TRIM works in Win 7 with SunPlus and Marvell ? Delete 10 GB worth of movies or ISO's and see if you get a lockup.

 

1. Yes, still on F.0F
2. The same seller sent the correct caddy once I e-mailed him with pictures of the one i got.
3. TRIM is working, just deleted a 9 GB big zip file and no lockup at all.

I had TRIM on with the SunPlus caddy, everything lagged and Windows 7 behaved really sluggish... disabled TRIM and restarted and it went away.

 

Thanks for the replies ! Any reason you're still on F.0F and not F.10 ?

 

No, not really. Just haven't had the time to update to F.10.

 

Hi all,

I upgraded my 2510p with a L7700 based motherboard from ebay. I have overclocked my U7600 (1.2 -> 1.5 Ghz) under Linux earlier:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...87-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-87.html#post8443250

...and the new motherboard uses the same PLL chip. The only problem was that the lfsb sources contained the FSB overclocking table until 200 Mhz what is the original FSB of the L7700. I checked the needed bits with setfsb under Windows and I don't think so that anybody else would overclock a L7700/2510p under Linux except me, but who knows...:

{210, 0x49, 0x11}
{215, 0x49, 0x1D}
{220, 0x49, 0x2B}
{225, 0x49, 0x35}
{230, 0x49, 0x41}
{235, 0x49, 0x4F}
{240, 0x49, 0x5C}
{243, 0x49, 0x63}
{247, 0x49, 0x6D}
{250, 0x49, 0x75} // -> this is ~2.0 Ghz
{252, 0x49, 0x79}

the needed additional values for ics9lprs355.c.

I run the L7700 at 1.6 -> 2.0 Ghz now.

 

Hi guys,

I'm running the 2510p with a Micron C400 mSATA SSD 128 GB (equivalent of Crucial M4 mSATA), on firmware 000F (I won't upgrade to 04MH) and it's working great with the mSATA-ZIF adapter ! This thing is fast in every aspect and TRIM + Secure Erase works flawlessly. I highly recommend the Micron/Crucial drives for the 2510p.

Anyone else running this ?

 

Hi gents,

I have a 2510p with the ol' blank display problem.

Three motherboards, the original, a replacement and another one just off eBay again. Nothing.

We've tried the whole Windows+B / Fn + F keys and checked the BIOS chip. We are stuck.

I did take the laptop apart on the first mobo to fix a dodgy power connector. (Where do these clowns get these ideas on building power jacks? Just mount it on a tiny board which is attached to the case and has wires going to the mobo...geez. Oh wait planned obsolescence nevermind)

I didn't do anything funky, so I'll await your responses.

 

Sounding out there...Anybody, anybody...

 

If you connect an external screen to it? Do you have a docking station for it?

 

Hello,
I would download the modified bios 2510p-F10-SP52914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct.rar but the file is not available, someone could provide me?

Thank you.

 

No output to an external display, and no docking station.

 

Here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...7-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-104.html#post8887451

 

whats wrong here?

 

Possible explanations and things to consider:

1. You didn't secure erase the drive. You should secure erase with latest Parted Magic iso, before installing the OS. If the Internal Secure Erase command asks you if you want to do an "Enhanced Secure Erase", choose No. Just run the basic, standard SE.

2. The operationg system was interfering with AS SSD, it was doing something else besides the benchmark. Try re-running AS SSD without any other programs running

3. Missing drivers. You should install the latest Motherboard chipset driver, the so-called INF Update Utility 9.3.0.1026, here:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=20775

and then (after the required restart) the video card (integrated in GM965 chipset) here:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Det...g&OSVersion=Windows 7 (64-bit)*&DownloadType=

4. Did you underclock your processor ? Or severely overclock it ? Is the processor temperature higher than 80 degrees ? Make sure the processor is running OK.

5. Post a SMART report of your SSD with CrystalDiskInfo or HD Tune. Is the SSD in perfect working condition ? Any BSODs or freezes ?

6. Which BIOS version do you run ? Did you restore to BIOS defaults before installing the mSATA SSD ?

7. Run AS SSD with the laptop charger connected to 220 V. When running only on battery, I experience slower speeds.

8. Check if TRIM is running. In command line (started with Administrator rights) type this:
fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify
If the result is 0, TRIM is Enabled in the OS.

Hope this will clear up things,
KrypteX

 

Thank you !

 

kryptex, thanks for your detailled answer. I really appreciate it!

I did not secure erase it before, I did now with cipher /w:C: (which does mainly the same as partition magic, zero all blocks, whereby cipher then does FF all blocks and afterwards random data all blocks) and the results are the same as before.

only AS SSD was running, I have disabled manually a lot of services of windows 7, so I think that's not the problem. also I have tested with windows XP as Part from USB key, same results.

I will update the drivers tomorrow, mine are about half a year old.

neither underclocked nor overclocked, I am running it at stock.

that's mambe the most important point.
I got this SSD in this state:


for sure it was declared in ebay-auction as used, but in good condition.
SSD live:


I also saw one reallocated sector in smart-status.
this was all before doing cipher /w. now, the SSD looks like this:


strange? I expected now an increase of the reallocated sector count, like I know it HDDs are doing (that's the state where I sell HDDs )
but:


more strange!
"reported uncorrectable errors" increased by one, it was before writing the whole SSD also at "1".
I am struggling with myself, throwing away this piece of hardware. But it was not as cheap with 55$, shipping from austria to china makes complaining not cost-efficient. I think I will keep it until it dies ... :-/

the modded F10 bios, I did not restore it. will try it tomorrow.

I was benchmarking at battery, will try it tomorrow plugged-in. but it was soooo much more confortable lying on couch ...

trim is enabled and working correct.

Kryptex, do you have an source for an maybe more recent firmware for te SSD? which firmware do you have installed on?

Thanks again for your help.

 

_Cyber_,

It's great to have the answers to all my questions ! There are a lot of things you could do to solve the issues. But first of all some important things:
a). Internal SE is not the same as writing zeros or FFs to the SSD. Internal SE is a command sent to the drive and the drive erases all sectors to factory defaults. It usually does it in 10 seconds to 2 minutes.
If you fill the drive (no matter if 00 or FF), you will get the worst possible scenario. So you need the Parted Magic iso to do an Internal Secure Erase. Parted Magic is NOT Partition Magic.

b) Your SSD has some issues, so we have to full read, then full write the drive, and then secure erase it (External, i.e. zero-fill, and then Internal)
c) The Samsung SSD you have is on the latest firmware AXM18D1Q. I had this same drive, with the same firmware (from Dell), worked great.

So, do the following steps:

0. Plug the computer to the 220 V main plug. Don't run on battery only.
Enter BIOS and restore it to defaults. Save and exit. Be careful in this type of BIOS, changes are made on each page only if F10 is pressed (read carefully the infos at the bottom of each BIOS windows/menu)
Then Turn off computer, take out the battery and the adapter. Wait 1 minute. Push the start button on the computer in order to drain out the capacitors. Wait 1 more minute. Put battery + adapter back and boot up the current windows.

Info: When you want to boot from various specific media (CD or hdd or USB drive), use the F9 boot menu when the laptop starts up (you probably already know this)

1. In the current Windows you have, run the Full Scan in HD Tune. Notice if there are any new Pending Sectors or "bad sectors" (red blocks)

2. Burn a CD/DVD with the Parted Magic ISO from here:
downloads
You should get the 2012_12_25 version

3. Boot the Parted Magic CD/DVD. On the desktop you'll have "Erase". Start that and run External Secure erase first (the first one in the list, I think). This should be a regular 0-fill. After finished, turn off the PC.

4. Boot again Parted Magic. Run an Internal SEcure Erase (the last in the list). If it says the drive is in Frozen State, then do what it asks (basically a Standby and then resume from standby). Standby+Resume will get the SSD out of the Frozen State. Notice that not all SSDs are in Frozen State, I don't remember if the Samsung mSATA 64 is or isn't. If the Internal Secure Eraser doesn't say anything about Frozen state, then it will allow you to directly erase.
Then, if it asks something like "This SSD supports Enhanced Secure Erase, Do you want to run Enhanced SE instead of Regular SE", choose NO. So you run the Regular SE. Note: Enhanced SE can erase the SSD serial number (happened to me before on a Samsung 830). So be careful here.
Turn off the PC.

5. Install Windows.
Check the SMART status of the SSD.
Run a Full Scan in HD Tune to see if everything looks OK. You shouldn't have any new pending sectors or red blocks.

6. Install drivers
a) INF Update Utility 9.3.0.1026 (for the Motherboard):
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=20775
b) and the video card (integrated in GM965 chipset):
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Det...g&OSVersion=Windows 7 (64-bit)*&DownloadType=

Install all other drivers if needed.

7. Run AS SSD and post results here. Also post a SMART report (Please stretch the HDTune Health Window to see all SMART parameters, before generating the snapshot)
For reference, the SMART of my Samsung SSD PM810 mSATA 64GB looked like this (the last time I've saved a SMART report):


Cheers,
KrypteX

 

plugging on AC power already solved the speed issue.

I will watch the smart info, after another full writing the ssd there were no differences, also I do not have any bad sectors for now.

 

That looks OK to me !

 

this is the same SSD with the same ZIF adapter in my nc2400 - I have just ordered another ssd and another adapter, much faster than the kingspec zif ...

 

Oh, that's great ! You might consider buying a 120 or 128 GB mSATA SSD. The Crucial M4 / Micron C400 (000F firmware) and the Samsung PM810 128 GB drives work amazingly well.

 

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I would like more information about the HP 2510p AC adapter, or more specifically, the plug pinout.

I just bought a second hand HP 2510p at eBay, but it came with no AC adapter. I already ordered a new one (HP original), but it will take 2 weeks to arrive, so meanwhile I can't turn the notebook on.

I have one of those universal power supplies, that can be set to 19V, but the connector is different, doesn't fit the 2510p. I would like to try hooking it up to the notebook to check if it's alright, but the plug is confusing: it has a tiny hole in the center (for a pin, I suppose) and a an outer round place to fit the connector body.

So I would like to know: how many contacts there are? 2 or 3? Is the center pin the positive, and the outer ring the negative? Is there a third signal? If so, what is it?

Thank you very much for any help,

Eduardo

 

The connector is the same as the one in the 3rd picture here:
Right Angle Converter for Dell and HP Laptop Power Adapters - LC90B

The connector is 7.4 mm thick (outer diameter), with a central pin. It has 2 contacts, the center pin is positive, the outer cylindrical tube is negative.
You should find such a plug on ebay, for your adapter (19 V), something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DELL-HP-Laptop-...Accessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item3a7d3a2ad3

Regards.

 

Thanks a lot, Kryptex!

Now I'm a bit worried, because I tried sticking a thin wire into the pin hole (positive) and a thicker wire in the outer ring (negative). After tying these wires to my 19V PSU and powering it on, nothing happened, but according to your info, it should at least light the power on led. I know it's risky doing this wiring thing, but I'm anxious to see my 2510p working...

One last question: is the inner wall of the tube "active"? I mean, is there a third contact in there?

Thanks once again,

Eduardo

UPDATE: after a careful examination, under a bright light and a loupe, it seems the connector is also a switch. In the outer ring, I can see connections in the outer edge (negative) and some connections in the inner ring. Hower, these inner ones seem more to be spring action prongs, that get pressed when the connector is fully inserted. After pressed, I suppose they may make contact to the inner pin (positive), internally, closing the circuit. The purpose of such a switch would be to avoid an external electricity spark when inserting the connector. With this mechanism, the spark would happen inside the connector, which is much safer and professional.

If this is all correct, this may explain why I can't power my 2510p on: the prongs must be pressed to close the "internal switch". A simple wire sticking there won't be enough.

Could anyone confirm if my deductions are correct? Many thanks!

 

Yeah, you're absolutely right. There is an internal switch activated by the plug when fully inserted. It won't work with only wires connected (I've tried that myself once on a Toshiba laptop, didn't work due to the same reason).

Maybe you know someone who has an HP laptop and borrow the adapter from him. There are a lot of HP models having the exact same adapter (19V, 4.74 A, with 7.4mm x 5.0 mm plug).

Regards !

 

Thanks again, Kryptex!

Now I'm more confident the notebook is ok, I'll wait until the new PSU arrives to test it for sure. About other HP notebooks, sadly I don't know anyone that have the same power plug model. I have a NC4000 and an older Compaq N410, a friend has a HP 530, my sister has a Compaq Presario C700, but none use the same plug. Anyway, it's alright, I'll just wait!

Best regards!