*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Thanks, p0intman !

I'll go ahead and order the Marvell-based "Fenvi" caddy made of metal, from the seller "cityeliter", this one:
9 5mm PATA IDE to SATA 2nd HDD Hard Drive Caddy DV23 | eBay
This seller seems to also have the 12.7 mm version for my older Toshiba A200 laptop. I hope that also has a Marvell-based chip inside.

The other seller, xiao2huan, doesn't ship to France, even though the Topda caddies are quite cheap there.

The metal Topda and Fenvi caddies seem to be identical (except 2 small holes on the bottom and the obvious marked brands), do you agree ?

 

Thank you so much for reply
I have now bought a "Fenvi" from the Seller "cityeliter"
Later if i have the Caddy i write what chipset there is inside
cu, Ruddi

 

Yes, I think they are identical.And from what I understood Topda is a replica of the Fenvi caddy.

 

@Kriptex

My bios version is Hewlett-Packard 68MSP Ver. F.05. 26/07/2007

 

@elcontador,

That's a very old firmware. Update to F.10 from here:
https://mega.co.nz/#!V8tn0aLb!FR-0jCn09YTZocVcuwiVljYH4F99i03Gha30yZB0828
Do NOT update to the official F.20 or F.30 from the HP site. You will not be able to go back to this un-whitelisted, overclockable BIOS F.10.

 

I've tried to update the bios though your link but now I have an error message when I booting "there is failure about update bios". I'll try to repair it. I'm at work now, I'll update this post next week when I'll coming back (day off in France)
Thhanks.

 

Could you please post the complete message? Anyway, last week I fixed a HP2510p with a similar (or same) problem. To fix it, you must update first to F.0E official, then F.0F official, and then to this non-white-list BIOS.

The official BIOSes can be downloaded from HP website. I don't know if there's a way to update the BIOS without a USB floppy drive, but I saved the BIOS file to a floppy disk, and connected my USB floppy drive to the notebook, and turned it on using Windows key + B pressed. It will automatically read the BIOS from the floppy, update and reboot. Do this procedure with the F.0E, then F.0F, and then the custom BIOS.

 

elcontador, I agree with EduardoLM's post. I didn't know that flashing from the older F.05 to the newer F.10 would be a problem. In my case, I had F.0A and went directly to F.10 without any issues.
I hope you will sort it out with a USB floppy disk (maybe you need to borrow/buy one).

 

Hi KrypteX
Please send me the BIOS F10 (268) + F10(269)
The MEGA-Link is no longer available.
Thanx

 

When I asked earlier how to remove the BIOS chip from the HP 2510p, I was stuck with this exact problem. I was considering removing it to write the chip with an EPROM programmer, but in the end I managed to fix the issue with the USB Floppy technique.

But still, if anyone can explain how to open the strange BIOS socket to remove the chip, that would be nice. I'm afraid to force the socket the wrong way and break it. Once I learn how to do it, I can help anyone with this problem, stuck due to lack of a USB floppy: just mail me the chip, and I can write it and mail back. The cost would be just the shipping and a beer.

 

@ KrypteX
The error is:

I've installed, again, W8 on this 2510 and it works but now, when I'm booting, I've always this error.
I think I'll order newmodeus cady. They seems better than my original caddies. What do you think about this?
2nd Hard Drive/ Optical Bay Caddy for HP Compaq 2510p & nc2400 [HP-2BAY-2510p] - $42.00 : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks

 

@elcontador

Re-flash again to F.10, maybe the error will go away.
newmodeus are based on Sunplus chip, they are not that good (no TRIM support, if you use SSDs inside). And Sunplus is also slower performance-wise than Marvell.
How do you want to use the caddy ? As a secondary HDD ?

 

OK, I'll do that tonight. I'm gonna use a traditionnal hard drive. All i want is the new caddy is recognized by the HP. Currently it's not the case, only the dvd caddy works.
I would like to use the caddy as master, as first hdd. I'll will take away the micro 1.8.

 

elcontador, check your Private Message !

 

I had this exact same message, and flashing F.10 only did not work. The only way I found to make it work again was to flash F.0E, then F.0F, and then F.10. The message mentions "sequential BIOS updates", and that means exactly this: to update one version at a time, starting in F.0E.

 

Please can someone send me the Firmware BIOS F10 (268) + F10(269)

Thanx

 

The solution is here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...87-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-55.html#post6969848

 

Hi all,

I would like to say sincerely "thanks" to Kriptex who helped me to resolve my problems. There are still few problems but they are not important.
his advice were efficient and he explain clearly what do you have to do.

I summarize my problems:
I've ordered three 2.5 Sata caddies for my HP 2510p ( eBay | New Slim 9.5mm SATA 2nd HDD Hard Drive Caddy for HP Compaq MultiBay 2510p nc2400 ). When I've received them, I've put one in a laptop: don't work. the caddy was not recognized by the PC. 4 days later Kriptex send me a mail and he resolved my problems: my bios wet not updated/. I've had to updated it and remove the 1.8 hard drive.

Now my laptop works well with my caddy. I'm sorry, my english is not very good that's why I cannot explain all the details about my problem. I just want to say "Merci" to Kriptex.

I've took some photos.
Sorry, you need to login with your account:
http://sdrv.ms/10Hi7Jv

 

And me, please

 

Here is the modded F0F & F10 Firmware (from KrypteX, THX)

2510P-F0F-SP49695-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct
2510P-F10-SP52914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct

But Note:
- install the original firmware F.0F from the HP site
- then install the modded F.10.

If you don't install the F.0F from HP first, and only then F.10, you will get a boot error all the time...

Best regards !

 

Hello people, I'm facing a VERY strange problem: I recently bought a mSATA KingSpec SSD drive, model KSM-mSATA.5-064MJ, plugged to the 1.8" bay thru an eBay adapter.

I installed windows XP on it, and it's working like a charm. I know KingSpec is a chinese brand, but it looks quite ok.

However, this weekend I tried to install Windows 7, and the install crashed during disk format. After the crash, a regular Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn't work. It looks like the whole SATA interface dies after the crash, even BIOS doesn't recognize the HD. I have to do a full power cycle (power the notebook off and on again) to make the SSD work again. To make a long history short, I tried several scenarios, tried to do a manual format, heavily googled on the problem, but found no solution. I always have the same results: a crash, and the disk goes undetectable.

I finally could load Windows 7 to the notebook by first installing it to the original regular Toshiba HD (luckily I still have it), and then making an image backup of it and restoring it to the SSD, using the EaseUS Todo Backup utility.

But here goes something even more intriguing: I partitioned the SSD into a C (contains Windows 7 install) and D (for data) partitions, and tried to format the D partition while running Windows 7, in Disk Management. It crashes the same way! The SSD goes completely dead and Windows goes for an ugly BSOD. A Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn't work, have to do a full power cycle, just as before.

So, I ask: why can't I format this damn SSD under Windows 7? And why the sucker works so well with Windows XP, and even with Debian? (Yes, I installed Debian with a full KDE, XFCE and LXDE desktops, all worked flawlessly).

Is there any BIOS setting I have to change? Some driver to load? Should I do a BIOS update in the notebook, or a FW update in the SSD? I'm using the modded F.10 BIOS on my 2510p, the same Ruddi just posted here in the forum.

Well, any help anyone could give me will be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot!

Eduardo

 

EduardoLM,

I do have a full response to your problem, which is mainly due to TRIM not being passed properly.
I've tested several mSATA SSDs in the ZIF-mSATA adapter and I have found only 3 SSDs to work correctly under Windows 7.

The ZIF-mSATA adapter has the JMicron JM20330 chip (SATA to IDE bridge), which doesn't pass the TRIM command correctly in combination with SSDs such as: Intel and SandForce-based ones (OCZ Nocti, for example).

For me, TRIM worked only with Samsung (PM810 and PM830), Toshiba SSDs and Crucial M4/Micron C400 (firmware 000F). Also, the OCZ Nocti worked acceptably with some hicups only on firmware 2.15. As soon as I updated the Nocti to 2.25, TRIM stopped working. I've also heard that LiteOn SSDs also passed TRIM correctly through JM20330. It's not a surprise, since both Crucial/Micron and LiteOn are Marvell-based SSDs.

Now, you have to understand that Windows 7 deletes some files during the installation, hence TRIM is activated each time afterwards. Also, it TRIMs the data when a partition is created. If TRIM doesn't pass correctly from the IDE interface on the motherboard to the mSATA SSD, then you have a nice BSOD or at least a serious freeze.

The solution is to disable TRIM in Windows 7 (can do only after it has already been installed, so you might need to image a Win7 installation from a regular drive to the SSD) or use a Samsung/Toshiba/Crucial/Micron SSD.

You can disable TRIM in Win7 in the command prompt with the following command:
fsutil behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 1

You can check the status of TRIM activation with:
fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify

If the response is 0, TRIM is NOT disabled (=active=enabled, so the OS sends TRIM to the drive after a file is deleted).
If the response is 1, TRIM commands are disabled (similarly to Windows XP).

You can reenable the TRIM command at any time with:
fsutil behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 0

Hope this helps.
PS: I suppose that your KingSpec is a SandForce or Phison-based SSD and the JM20330 bridge doesn't like it.

 

Kryptex, thanks a lot for the detailed reply! I must apologize: after I read your reply, I found you guys already talked about this subject in the past, here in the forum.

Well, about my problem, yes, my adapter has the JM20330 controller indeed. And I followed your suggestion on disabling TRIM commands.

However, before changing, I checked the value with "fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify", but the value was 48! Very strange. I changed it to 1, tried a format, and the computer crashed the same way as before. Then I did a reboot, tried the format again, and this time the computer didn't crash, a great improvement!! However, it was not able to format my D: partition, Logical Disk Manager gives me an error. Mistery. To format it, I have to boot the Windows XP CD and use it to format the D: drive. Then I interrupt the install process.

So, even disabling the TRIM command, I can't format under Win7! But at least the computer doesn't crash anymore, and the drive interface doesn't "die" anymore.

Another point: I read about the TRIM command, and it sounds like it's really important for SSDs. No TRIM command may slow down writing performance, and also shorten flash cells life. That makes me sad, I would really like to have this all working well, without disabling an important feature like TRIM.

But I thank you very much for all the help, I will keep using your suggestion until I can afford a SSD brand that talks well to my adapter, or even a 1.8" ZIF SSD, avoiding the mSATA + adapter route. And a last comment: I only wish there were other adapters available, perhaps based on more standard compliant controllers, but it seems the only one is this JM20330 based.

 

The value 48 for the DisableDeleteNotify parameter is indeed very strange ! I have checked and other people have seen 48 before. But non one really knows what that means. Normally, 0 means TRIM enabled and 1 means TRIM disabled.
Anyway, after you set this value, the system needs a restart in order for it to be effective. Maybe that's why the first format you did (without restart, I suppose ?) resulted in a crash.

Why you can't delete the D partition is also strange. You might try using Paragon Hard Disk Manager to delete/create partitions. It's a very good program.

The mSATA-ZIF adapter comes only with JM20330, which has these strange incompatibilities with certain SSDs. I suggest selling the KingSpec SSD and buy another mSATA drive (Crucial M4 or Micron C400 worked wonders for me. Also Samsung and Toshiba function perfectly).

There is another solution: change your DVD writer in case you don't need it and replace it with a Marvell-based 9.5 mm SATA-to-IDE caddy (Fenvi or Topda brands). The Marvell chip passes TRIM correctly to any regular 2.5" SSD.
The caddy costs around $10 and the 2.5" SSDs are less expensive than the mSATA ones.
Anyway, I would still go with a Crucial M4 or a Samsung 2.5" SSD for the caddy.

Hope this helps.

 

Hi Kryptex, thank you once again! I didn't know about Paragon Hard Disk Manager, I'll look into it, let's see if it works for me.

About selling the KingSpec, indeed, that would be a good solution! My only problem is that it's hard to find a seller or store shipping to Brazil. Once I find somewhere willing to ship any brand of working SSD here, I will surely do that!

About that 2.5" caddy, I already ordered one at eBay last week. I got a Topda, but it's plastic made, I couldn't find anyone shipping the metal one here. But I think it will be ok, and in this case, I plan to use a regular mechanical HD, not a SSD, to lower the costs. If I use a 7200rpm HD, I think performance will be very good!

 

EduardoLM,

You can buy a Crucial M4 or Samsung mSATA SSD on eBay, maybe you find someone who is willing to ship to Brazil.
Anyway, if you already have the Topda 2.5" caddy, the best solution for you is to:
1. Sell the KingSpec SSD
2. Buy a Seagate Momentus XT 500 GB drive (500 GB of 7200 HDD + 4 GB SLC cache) or the newest variant Seagate SSHD ST500LM000 (500 GB of 5400 rpm HDD + 8 GB MLC cache)

The Momentus XT or SSHD drives are very fast and give almost SSD-like performance. You also have 500 GB of usable capacity. The price of these babies are that of a 128 GB SSD, more or less. So it's your choice. You also don't have to worry about TRIM for these hybrid drives, so you can use any caddy you like (even a SunPlus chip will do it). The Topda caddy should, however, be based on the Marvell chip.

Finally, could you please take some photos of the inside chip found in your Topda caddy (take off those 4 screws, if you will and pop the lid off) and also link us to the seller on eBay you got it from (to see if it's indeed a Marvell chip inside)? I would very much appreciate it !

 

Finally got my Samsung mSATA disk...

Connected it together with the ZIF to mSATA adapter and the zif cable from the original disk.

Secure Ereased it and installed Windows 8... almost got everything working... it was fun trying though

Now installed with Windows 7 x64, everything working. Partition aligned correctly, latest Intel INF drivers installed and everything seems really fast and stable.

Ran AS SSD Benchmark but was slightly disappointed with the result:


What do you think, is it ok?

 

Yes, great results for a 32 GB SSD ! Very similar to my 64 GB Samsung SSD tests.

 

Ok

I just updated from the official F0F BIOS to the modded F10 BIOS and ran the test again... this time I got this result:


Strange that the Seq write speed went down but the 4k write speed increased?! What's more important?

 

4K write speed is THE most important parameter for an SSD.

 

Thanks once again, Kryptex! My 2.5 caddy didn't arrive yet, and be sure I will post pictures and confirm it's chipset once it arrives. For now, here goes the eBay link:

New PATA IDE to SATA 2nd HDD Caddy Universal 9 5mm CD DVD ROM Optical Bay 4A | eBay

Item price is $11.30, but the seller accepted my $10.00 offer. By the way, thanks a lot for the tip on the 500GB HD, this one seems to be an awesome disk to have in any machine! I'm also looking around for a "good" SSD to use with my mSATA adapter, and I found something strange: some Toshiba SSDs have a SandForce controller (saw that in pictures around the web), but you mentioned that SandForce based SSDs will have the same TRIM trouble with the adapter, so I'm in doubt now: will Toshiba work, even with a SandForce on it??

 

If it's a SandForce chip, then I'd abstain from it. Usually, Toshiba uses their own, "Toshiba"-branded controllers.

The idea is to have one of the following controllers on the mSATA SSD (to work with the JM20330 SATA-PATA bridge):
- Marvell (found on Crucial, Micron, Plextor, LiteOn SSDs)
- Toshiba (found on Toshiba and Kingston SSDs)
- Samsung (found on Samsung SSDs)

From my experience, the following controllers have issues in combination with the JM20330 bridge:
- Intel
- SandForce

 

I will follow your suggestion and avoid any SandForce SSD, Kryptex, thanks again! Here is an example of what I said, zoom in the second picture:

Toshiba 64GB mSATA III SSD | eBay

The controller is Toshiba, and also SandForce branded! Quite strange... Perhaps a controller SandForce made specifically for Toshiba? Go figure...

 

That's a really interesting find, Eduardo !

At the beginning, Toshiba used controllers from JMicron, later branded Toshiba, but still the same chip. Those were quite problematic. Lots of bugs.

Then, Toshiba switched to their own controllers, which worked out to be quite good, series THNSNC, such as this one:
THNSNCxxxGMMJ (THNSNC064GMMJ, THNSNC128GMMJ, THNSNC256GMMJ) - Toshiba SPD - Product Detail
I did test this THNSNC series and it worked correctly in the JM20330 mSATA-ZIF adapter. However, this series doesn't have NCQ support (not that it counts in IDE settings, such as connected to the JM20330 chip).

Then again, Toshiba switched to Marvell, look at the THNSNF SSD review here:
Toshiba THNSNF256GCSS 'Thin Sniff' 256GB SSD Preview :: TweakTown

And now it seems they switched again, to SandForce this time, namely the THNSNS series that you found on eBay and also in this review:
Toshiba THNSNS SSD Review (HDTS112XZSWA 120GB Upgrade Kit) | StorageReview.com - Storage Reviews

So... take it with a grain of salt.

 

If the caddy is what the picture shows then you have ordered the exact same caddy that I have at home. It's a marvell chip in it... and you will have to trim some of the plastic below the connector for it to fit correctly. When I used this caddy with an Intel 320 SSD I got alot of BSOD because of the caddy being to loose in the chassie.

I tried a 500GB HDD with a SunPlus caddy before I got my Marvell caddy. It worked like a charm... I think the chip in the caddy only really makes a difference if you are going to use it with a SSD.

 

I confirm p0intman's observations !
I would only add that the performance of the Marvell caddy is a bit better (10 % faster overall) than the SunPlus caddy.

 

Thanks for the info, p0intman! In fact I read all your info about the metal and plastic caddies, but sadly I didn't find a Topda metal caddy that could be shipped to Brazil. In fact I've found some metal ones, but they were not Topda, so I had to choose, and my choice was for the brand. About it being loose, I will study it once it arrives, and if necessary, I'll fabricate some holes on it, or glue some nuts to firmly fix it inside with the screws the CD-ROM already uses. I hope it works!

About trimming it, thanks God it has nothing to do with that damned TRIM command, lol! When I first read your post and saw "trim" on it, I immediately tought "oh , here we go again with more TRIM trouble!". At least this is a kind of "trim" I can do with old fashioned tools!

 

That's funny !

 

Hi, Apologies for a long first post..
after following the conversations about SSD in SATA/PATA caddy, I went to get one via ebay to use with a Sandisk Extreme SSD 240G ( which has Sandforce controller)

The caddy has a Marvell chip.. but this is were the good news seems to end. - Maybe there is someone on the forum that had success or failure with a SanDisk extreme SSD)

've removed the internal HDD prior to installing on SSD
Trying to install Win7 fails as setup can't seem to format disk.
Worked around by formatting SSD via gparted
Install Win7 worked....
Disabled trim as per above (just to make sure not to cause issues)
Installed SP1 - ok
On restarts it seems that system can't boot and trys to start system repair. On ctrl-alt-delete it usually starts windows ok. (happens pretty much on every restart)
Installed 105 recommened windows updates - ok
After restart (with above mentioned ctrl-alt-delete treatment) 14 more updates were installed (some win7 security fixes and some .NET 4 fixes.
And now the trouble started.
On restart system fails to detect various hardware components. (in particular the wired and wireless network) Code 31 - trying install drivers show error (parameter is incorrect)
on other restarts (including safe boot). other components start showing the yellow bang in device manager.
On one of the restarts it started redetecting the SSD , ACPI, graphics card, USB hib etc..

I actually did not browse anywhere. only windows updates.. Scans with malewarebytes is clean...
Did some manual restore points along the way..
But can restore as system restore says can't find file.

And I have done this twice now.. Right now to me it looks that some of the updates I'm installing are breaking the system somehow.

I'll attempt another round tonight - but stop short of those set of 14 and see if the system just stops working...
The only other thing I haven't tried is trimming the caddy - it looked as if the connector is seated properly- but maybe its not.. need to look whether i need to trim something and where exactly.

thanks in advance to those who read the post to the end...

 

Hello dazulrich and welcome to the forum !

Your problems are pretty serious and at this point I can only suggest and ask a few things:

1. Please take a photo of the caddy or at least point us to the ebay seller you bought it from. I'd like to see which version did you get (to see whether or not you need to trim any plastic from it).

2. If you have another PC, I would first run a full scan on the Sandisk SSD. You might have some bad sectors or some other issues. Check SMART and make sure you have the latest firmware update for your SSD (R211 for the Extreme, if I'm not mistaking). I had the 120 GB version of the Extreme once and it worked flawlessly in a Toshiba laptop.

3. If you have access to another empty 2.5" HDD, try to use that one for a while in the caddy. Install windows, updates, etc and see what happens. This would give you an idea if it's the SSD, the caddy or the 2510p itself that's giving you headaches.

4. Check the BIOS version and report back. If your system is not stable, do not attempt to update the BIOS.

5. Try to make a clean install of Windows 7 + SP1, but do not install any updates afterwards. See if you have issues with this setting. Then install the updates and see when do the problems appear.

6. After installing Win 7 + SP1, install Avast Antivirus immediately and update it. It's free. Never work in windows without an antivirus.

7. If you can't find the problem, try to install a Windows XP SP3 on the SSD. It doesn't have TRIM and it should work perfectly.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks KrypteX.

your reply is much apprechiated.

the caddy looks like this one: 9.5mm PATA IDE to SATA Caddy
can take photo later, assume you need to see the connector.

Will scan SSD on PC, I did check SMART etc before and didn't show anything suspicious.

Don't have spare 2.5 SATA disk unfortunately.
FW should be latest you mentioned (but will double check to be sure)

Bios, will check.. I had win7 installed on internal disk before (same bios) and was stable... (just slow and needed more space)

Will do fresh install + SP1 and then AV and backup.. at least that will save me complete restart...

----------------

Edit: full scan and SMART done. no error, SSD has latest firmware
BIOS on 25010p is F10 nowhitelist fan40pct..

formatting disk now and retesting later.

/daz

 

daz,

From the eBay link, I can say that you have a caddy-to-PC connection issue. You need to trim the plastic at the bottom of the caddy in order for it to fit securely to the IDE/ATAPI connector inside the laptop. Please read this post from p0intman:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...7-hp-2510p-owners-lounge-124.html#post9180701

The problem comes from the fact that both yours and p0intman's caddies have a plastic surrounding the caddy margins and may be in excess at the connector region. I think those "plastic" caddies are built for Thinkpads and not HP/Toshiba laptops.
That's why I recommend buying the fully metallic Fenvi or Topda caddies. They fit perfectly without issues.

 

Best would be to test with another disk in the 2510p, too see if it is the disk or some other hardware in the machine. But, then again you said that there wasn't any issues with the original ZIF disk. Must be either the caddy or the disk, or a combination of the two.

The problems I had with the plastic framed caddy was that you really couldn't fasten it to the laptop, it was secured in place by the connector... and every now and then it came loose and Windows crashed with a bluescreen because of that. Also it didn't boot to Windows when it wasn't 100% in the connector, so I had to press it and then hit CTRL+ALT+DEL to get it to boot into from the drive.

Some of your problems seems to be the same as I had, but not all...

 

Thanks both ffor the ongoing suggestions.
Did gut away some plastic - and it looked for a while as if it did improve things. I.e all the misdetected devices started to work again on next reboot,

Did a a clean install, included AV early on to be sure and get a lot further before it fall over again.. Also my caddy had screw holes use the two brackets from the original optical caddy to secure it.. this btw doesn't make any differnce to the reliability of the SDD / cady combo - but makes me think the caddy sits properly in place.

While I am thinking of investing in a Fenvi caddy, as this is also Marvell based, (as min ebay caddy is), this may actually not improve anything, if the problem is Sandforce/ Marvell combo.. unless there are differnt Marvell chips in differnt caddies.. .

I'll try the SSD in a different netbook and see if i can install Win7..

 

From what you experience, the first thing I would do is to borrow another drive from someone (standard HDD and/or another SSD - non-SandForce) and try that to see what happens.

You might have a damaged caddy (the Marvell chip comes only in one flavour/model and it's the best out there, so no worries). You also might have an incompatibility between the SandForce controller and the Marvell chip...
Maybe you can wait for a few days, I could test an SSD in my caddy, different than the Crucial M4 I have now. The problem is I don't have a SandForce-based SSD lying around for the time being...

1. You should check the SMART values on the SSD and post them here. I would like to see them. You can make one with CrystalDisk Info or HDTune (snapshot).

2. Can you please tell us how far did the installation go before everything went south ?

3. If you have access to another laptop with an IDE connector, you could try to test there the 9.5 mm caddy with your SanDisk SSD.

 

Hi.
Can someone send me the modified 2510p white list bios?
All the download links seems to be taken down.

 

Here goes: ---LINK REMOVED---
(this is a dropbox link, please download it ASAP, I will take it offline in some days, to avoid trouble)

I prepared this ZIP file with BIOS F.0E, F.0F and F.10 modded. Flash them all, in this sequence, using the supplied (and modded) hpwflash utility, to avoid the booting problem. IF YOU DON'T FOLLOW THIS ADVICE, YOU MAY "BRICK" YOUR HP 2510P, AND WILL BE ABLE TO FIX IT ONLY WITH AN EXTERNAL USB FLOPPY EMERGENCY FLASH PROCEDURE.

More info at: dual-IDA/quad-IDA BIOS for HDX9000/87x0/85x0/6x10/27x0p/25x0p

Edit: Nando reported the link to DropBox, causing the file sharing capabilities of my account to be suspended. Well, I'm disappointed, he could just PM me, I would remove it immediately, there was no need for that. Besides, I included his "readme" file in the ZIP, giving him full credits for the mod.

Thanks for that, Nando, I hope you're happy with the mess you did to me.

 

Hi,

I've put normal HDD into the caddy and all is working... Installed Win7 all patches up to date. not one single boot failure or bsod.

Installation with the SSD usually started failing after the SP1 update.. but during my trials sometimes if failed straight after SP1. The ONE thing that always happened - I could NEVER boot at first attempt. on every reboot/boot windows wanted to load the recovery console. Ctrl+alt+del warm reboot and win7 booted ok.

Can't plug the caddy into differnt laptop - won't fit.. But I'll try to install on SSD in external USB enclosure on this laptop and other laptop.just to see if i can format disk as part of install / boot first time.

Below SMART values copied from Chrystalinfo (conencted via usb enc)

-- Controller Map ----------------------------------------------------------
- ATA Channel 0 (0) [ATA]
- ATA Channel 1 (1) [ATA]
+ Intel(R) ICH8M Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 2850 [ATA]
+ ATA Channel 0 (0)
- ST9120821AS ATA Device
+ Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller [ATA]
- ATA Channel 0 (0)
- ATA Channel 1 (1)

-- Disk List ---------------------------------------------------------------
(1) ST9120821AS : 120.0 GB [0/2/0, pd1] - st
(2) SanDisk SDSSDX240GG25 : 240.0 GB [1/X/X, sp1] (V=04FC, P=0C25) - sf

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(2) SanDisk SDSSDX240GG25
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Enclosure : SanDisk SDSSDX240GG25 USB Device (V=04FC, P=0C25, sp1) - sf
Model : SanDisk SDSSDX240GG25
Firmware : R211
Serial Number : 122875400980
Disk Size : 240.0 GB (8.4/137.4/240.0/240.0)
Buffer Size : Unknown
Queue Depth : 32
# of Sectors : 468862128
Rotation Rate : ---- (SSD)
Interface : USB (Serial ATA)
Major Version : ATA8-ACS
Minor Version : ACS-2 Revision 3
Transfer Mode : SATA/600
Power On Hours : 140 hours
Power On Count : 229 count
Host Reads : 487 GB
Host Writes : 651 GB
Temparature : 20 C (68 F)
Health Status : Good (100 %)
Features : S.M.A.R.T., APM, 48bit LBA, NCQ, TRIM
APM Level : 00FEh [ON]
AAM Level : ----

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr Raw Values (7) Attribute Name
01 120 120 _50 00000000000000 Raw Read Error Rate
05 100 100 __3 00000000000000 Retired Block Count
09 100 100 __0 1DF7F40000008C Power-on Hours
0C 100 100 __0 000000000000E5 Power Cycle Count
AB __0 __0 __0 00000000000000 Program Fail Count
AC __0 __0 __0 00000000000000 Erase Fail Count
AE __0 __0 __0 0000000000005B Unexpected Power Loss Count
B1 __0 __0 __0 00000000000000 Wear Range Delta
B5 __0 __0 __0 00000000000000 Program Fail Count
B6 __0 __0 __0 00000000000000 Erase Fail Count
BB 100 100 __0 00000000000000 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
C2 _20 _39 __0 00001000270014 Temperature
C3 100 100 __0 00000000000000 On-the-Fly ECC Uncorrectable Error Count
C4 100 100 __3 00000000000000 Reallocation Event Count
C9 100 100 __0 00000000000000 Uncorrectable Soft Read Error Rate
CC 100 100 __0 00000000000000 Soft ECC Correction Rate
E6 100 100 __0 00000000000064 Life Curve Status
E7 100 100 _10 00000000000000 SSD Life Left
E9 __0 __0 __0 000000000000D9 Vendor Specific
EA __0 __0 __0 0000000000028B Vendor Specific
F1 __0 __0 __0 0000000000028B Lifetime Writes from Host
F2 __0 __0 __0 000000000001E7 Lifetime Reads from Host

 

Yeah, I also had to deal with the guy, I was looking for the modded F.10 firmware without the slower fan and he asked for money.
I think the guy's a bit nuts for doing all he can to issue DMCA takedowns on every possible site containing his super-duper BIOSes...
If I really wanted to, I could just give you guys a direct ftp link to my own server. Nobody can take that one down... But anyways, that's his own problem, not ours.

And yeah, Nando, if you read this, keep that BIOS for yourself dude... I hope it brings you happiness in life.

 

Well, my topda caddy has arrived several days ago, but only this weekend I had time to finish installing it to my 2510p in a secure way. Here are some pictures of it dismantled, and a close up picture of it's PCB:



Please note the second picture: with the top metal cover removed, the caddy fits nicely inside the 2510p, with no need to do any trim anywhere. So I left this cover out, it has no function anyway.

As pointman stated, this caddy is plastic and it's not ready to be fixed securely to the notebook's chassis, but I have noticed something interesting: the caddy has mounting holes for many screws engraved all around. If you want, you can use some tools to drill the holes and install screws there. Please see this picture, it shows the caddy on top of the original 2510p DVD-ROM, showing the rear metal mounting part for the screw. Please note the holes in the plastic caddy, they align perfectly with the screws on the DVD-ROM:



Now see this one. I finished drilling the holes already marked in the plastic, and simply screwed the metal mounting part on it:



I must admit it doesn't fix very well, and installing a nut inside to secure the screw would be very important. But since I didn't want to remove the mounting pieces from the original DVD-ROM, I put it back where it was and did something different. I drilled a hole in the front of the caddy, for the front screw, but first marking the exact spot with a needle, with the caddy inserted. See the needle mark in the red square:



After drilling a hole in this place, it's easy to use a screw (longer than the original one) to firmly secure the topda caddy in the notebook chassis. I went a bit further, and glued a metal nut with epoxy glue to the opposite side seen in the photo. And before gluing, I heated the nut with my soldering iron and forced it to the plastic, to "sink" it in the caddy chassis. That way the nut was very securely fixed to the caddy, and since it's in the opposite side, the tighter the screw is, the more the nut is pushed against the caddy, making it all very strong.

But be careful, because the caddy's led is monted very close to where the hole will be.

I left the rear loose, and someday I may install a metal piece there to make things even stronger, but things appear to be very solid with only the front screw.