*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

I found this not doable. When I try to install win7 to my RunCore which is in the USB enclosure that came with it, it says win7 cannot be installed to a disk that is connectted through USB.

 

Can you boot Linux (Ubuntu CD or a rescue USB/floppy?) If so, you could create the initial ntfs *aligned* Win7 partitions using Linux's fdisk as shown here. That might be enough then to allow you to install Win7 from the setup CD?? I say *might* because I have not seen this problem on my setup.

 

Hi,
is there anyone knows about the free usb port on the mainboard of 2510p.
I'm very satisfy with my 2510p but I need to add an webcam.
Any suggestion?

 

UPDATE: I believe the only unwhitelisted USB ports are the two free ones. The bios probes the others for the device type attached so may not be able to be tapped. The exception being the internal docking connector pins which has had a webcam added successfully as noted here.

INFO: Adding internal USB devices by tapping USB pins

The following info may help you to tap USB pins from places other than the supplied 2 USB ports.

1. the mPCIe WWAN uses pin 36 and 38 for USB , but did not work when I connected an external USB or WWAN via a PE4L-EC2C. Appears this port is only activated by the bios upon detecting certain mPCIe WWAN cards.

2. the wifi slot has no USB pins connected.

3. the bluetooth dongle comes up as a USB device, so could tap off it's pins

4. the fingerprint sensor comes up as a USB device, so could tap off it's pins

5. as mentioned, the internal docking connector's USB pins has had a webcam successfully added to it.

Path of least resistence: tap the docking connector's USB pins 33 and 34. See below.


Above: 2510P internal docking connector pads from the 2510P schematic

 

thanks for the quick reply.
can you suggest me some slim webcam mode pulled out from hp laptop can be stick inside the screen like 2530p that using usb connection?

 

Are the Newmodeus caddies specific to each laptop brand? I don't see Sony listed

 

INFO: Upgrade your stock 2GB 667MHz RAM to 800MHz for free

WARNING: This mod can brick your system. I take no responsibility for damage. Observe precautions.

This mod is only useful if you intend to use the same RAM module in another system that requires DDR2-800 RAM, eg: a 2530P. Otherwise the system will bootup and use the same 266Mhz RAM timings (or 333Mhz if have a L7700 2510p) yielding no performance benefits. One unusual side effect of this mod was that Everest reported the X3100 graphics Core Render clock runs at 500Mhz rather than 400Mhz. Seems the X3100 graphics is more overclock friendly too once apply this mod. Warning! If something goes wrong and your notebook will not boot see bad ram flash recovery process. You'll need another notebook with 2 RAM module slots to be able to recover. Right: Supplied HP 2GB RAM module before and after being flashed. PC2-5300's 200Mhz table entry replaced by PC2-6400's 400Mhz entry.

PC2-5300 (667Mhz)

PC2-6400 (800Mhz)

This tutorial applies to the 2GB module the 2510P is delivered with. Mine was delivered with a HP Qimonda 64T256020EDL3SC2 PC2-5300 RAM stick for which this tutorial is written. If you have a 1GB or a different 2GB module, you'll need to find a proper flash-dump for your module. Thaiphoon Burner has an extensive database with a high chance it does have an appropriate flash-dump.

1. Download 14-day trial Thaiphoon Burner
2. Extract and run Thaiphoon Burner
3. Select 'EEPROM'->'Read SPD at 50h'. If doing this on a system with 2 RAM slots, check info shown is correct.
4. Click 'Save'. This will save a dump of the RAM that you can reflash if something goes wrong.
5. Click 'Browser'
6. Click 'Download'. This will download a list of SPD dumps.
7. In 'Search String' write 'qimonda', in 'Capacity' select '2048', in 'Architecture' select 'DDR2 SDRAM', click 'Search'
8. Select '64T256020EDL2.5C2' [this has 266/333/400 timings instead of 200/267/333 as supplied]
9. Click 'Open Dump'
10. Click 'Write', select 'Full Rewrite'
11. Select the right SPD Device Address (see step 3.)
12. Select 'Use the current SPD dump from Hex Editor', click 'Write'
13. After completion reboot and enjoy PC2-6400 functionality.

Acknowledgement. Adapted from Timeline tweaks for implementation on a 2510P.

 

Hi,

help me. I baught a new HDD (toshiba MK1214GAH) for my 2510p. When i insert to my machine and i'm lost the DVD-RW.
If i unplug the hdd, then dvd-rw works fine.
hdd is master on ide bus, dvd-rw is slave

what can i do?

sorry for my bad english

 

Disclaimer: FSB overclocking means faster running frequencies which can result in higher operating temperature. Observe decent cooling precautions. I take no responsibility for any damage.

Saying that, my observation of implementing the steps below found the overclocked state has no noticable increase in cpu or gpu temperature. Certainly not getting anywhere near tjmax of 105 degrees. The DC undervolted/overclocked state runs lower temperatures than default.

INFO: 2510P Performance Toolkit 1.0c for Windows

This toolkit integrates Throttlestop, setfsb, baredit and hdparm from articles below into a set-and-forget automated installation to increase performance and extend battery life. Overclocking in Windows Undo the slave PATA 30MB/s sequential write speed capping Manually setting ZIF/IDE transfer mode and standby timeout Features being: an overclocked AC and undervolted DC profiles, automatic switching between them depending on power source and re-applying the profile when resuming-from-standby/hibernate.

In AC mode, Throttlestop will show in the system tray
In DC mode, Throttlestop will remain active for 5 seconds in the system tray during which it will setup your specified voltage and dividers, then exit so as to consume as little resources as possible. The audio device is disabled by default in DC (Win7) to save even more power.

[email protected] 2510P's results above show it delivering SU7300 1810T/SU9400 X301. That's an impressve free performance upgrade. More OC benchmark results and suggestions here.

Installation instructions: confirmed working on XP/Win7 64-bit

1. Set your x3100 graphics' Power Settings using igfxtray to the more overclock tolerant "Maximum Battery". The key option that allows higher overclocking being "Intel Rapid Memory Power Management".

2. Download and install a dualIDA modded 2510P bios. This will provide an extra multipler giving more overclocking headroom.

3. Download 2510P-OC-Toolkit-1c.exe and extract it to c:\faster.

4. In Power Options -> change advanced settings -> Processor power management -> Minimum processor state, set "On battery" = 100% and "Plugged in" = 100%. This ensures then that Win7 will not interfere with the Throttlestops' multiplier selections.

5. (Optional) Edit c:\faster\params.bat setting the div specific to your 2510P's CPU divider. Defaults should be OK.

Code:

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:: CPU table params=[dualIDA on/off, cpu multiplier, freq_ac, freq_dc]
:: The multiplier is the native one of the CPU                      
:: Appears video driver kicks up power consumption with FSB > 160
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:: For U7xxx ensure FSB < 166 and total freq < 1600
:  For L7xxx ensure FSB < 222 and total freq < 2000 (guess) 

if %cpu%==U7500 set params=on,   8, 166, 166
if %cpu%==U7600 set params=on,   9, 160, 160
:: if %cpu%==U7600 set params=off,  9, 178, 178
if %cpu%==U7700 set params=off, 10, 160, 160
if %cpu%==L7500 set params=on,   8, 222, 222
if %cpu%==L7700 set params=off,  9, 222, 222

Optional: unset audio_dev if don't want it disabled when switch to DC mode. Unset wifi_dev if don't want it restarted on
AC<->DC switch. Placing "hdd_set=off" in c:\faster\params.bat disables hdd_set.bat. hdd_set sets the slave channel to work at full > 30MB/s write performance plus can set standby parameters of your second HDD.

Code:

set audio_dev="HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_11D4&DEV_1981&SUBSYS_103C30C9"
set wifi_dev="PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_4229&CC_0280"
set hdd_set=on

6. Place a shortcut to c:\faster\resume-faster.vbs in your Startup Folder to provide automatic AC/DC profile switching on startup and after a resume-from-standby/hibernate. This will be seen as a process wscript.exe in task manager running as a loop consuming very little cpu.

7. Place a shortcut to c:\faster\2510P-restart.bat on your desktop. Use this to restart your system. This will downclock your system to the 133Mhz default FSB, then restart your system. Restarting without this will otherwise see you lose your wifi. setfsb takes 10 seconds to downclock (!!).

8. If using "hdd_set=on" then install BarEdit now, which will require a system reboot.

Now just enjoy the higher overall cpu/ram/x3100 and full slave PATA performance, including longer battery life

Optional Steps for tweaking the default params.bat overclocked settings

1. Test your overclock by using Orthos or Everest System Stability Test. Consider too setting lower dividers in TS so can increase the FSB without hitting CPU overclock walls.

If wanting to try > 178Mhz FSB, suggest writing CAS=5 in the 267Mhz SPD RAM table using Thaiphoon Burner as otherwise it will be flakey.

2. Once satisfied with your highest stable AC overclock, set your preferred AC and DC frequencies in params.bat. The DC frequency will be limited by (i) how far can downclock (ii) highest overclock at lowest stable voltage. On my system I've just set Throttlestop to run a DC profile with the same FSB as used for AC but limited the multipler to x9, so it's [email protected] (160x9).

BUG #1: Frozen PLL after standby/resume workaround

A resume-from-standby/hibernate might result in an Frozen PLL Error, unique to the TME-locked 2510P PLL. Clicking OK then do another suspend/resume to unfreeze the PLL.

After applying grub2 bootloader OC [I OC to 1.44Ghz there] and the quiet_fan ACPI mod, and 2510P Performance Kit I now no longer get the frozen PLL after resume-from-standby in XP/Win7. This suggests to me that the PLL state is saved by ACPI during startup.

BUG #2: Must have battery installed: if don't have battery in the system when resume-faster.vbs starts up, then will have a startup error line 26, char 1: Invalid procedure call or argument, since it requires the PowerManagement module to do AC/DC profile switching. Install the battery to correct this error.

_______________________________________________________________________________________
[Advanced Users] Details about the AC/DC profile of my u7600-1.2

Kit above is designed for any user to be able to install and benefit from. For advanced users wanting to know more...

- my u7600's default CPU voltagers/dividers are x6=0.85V x7=0.875V x8=0.9V x9=0.9V. The CPU can accept voltages: min=0.85V and max=0.1V in 0.125Mhz increments. Voltages above 0.9V are unlocked by Throttlestop.

- I have used another 2510P that had higher tolerances. With CAS=5 set, it was able to overclock up to 1.75Ghz when it would BSOD. A 1.65-1.7 stable overclock being possible. It's higher idle power consumption meaning it supplied more power to system components. Higher power means higher overclockability. I believe my systems is on the lower power/lower overclockability end of the spectrum.

- Under Linux I run a 1.42Ghz overclock. 1.5Ghz will freeze under heavy load. Appears related to the X3100 graphics. The xorg driver doesn't offer a more overclock tolerant "Maximum Battery" X3100 option.

I would anticipate each system having a unique set of parameters, with the ones supplied a good general purpose fit to do further investigation from. Specific voltage requirements and dividers can be setup by "turn off" Throttlestop, applying settings, then turning it on again.

highest u7600 overclocking settings found

Previous OC testing using a x9 multiplier found my U7600 cpu hits an instability wall at > 1.67Ghz. Stock RAM timings were good for up to 1.6Ghz (178Mhz FSB). Any more required CAS=5 written to the RAM. I found that the 178Mhz FSB would also intermittently freeze the X3100 graphics on startup. Seems like it needed time to warm up to get a 100% consistent overclock. For that reason I reverted to a 160x10 dualIDA overclock instead with no such inconsistencies.

I did further FSB overclocking limits testing. The cpu multiplier was locked in rmclock at x8 so the CPU was not the wall, and RAM's 266Mhz SPDtable set for 200/400Mhz operation so could go beyond 200Mhz FSB if the system could do so. I found the rest of the system (northbridge/X3100 graphics) becomes unstable > 195Mhz FSB, parameters which cannot be tweaked. So my particular 2510P's profile is:

- u7600 CPU is unstable > 1.65Ghz
- stock RAM timings are OK for up to 178Mhz FSB. Any more needs *just* CAS=5 written to SPDtable.
- rest of system can support up to 194Mhz FSB. Any more gets random reboots.
- x3100 graphics needed to warm up if want > 160Mhz FSB.

These three constraints then mean I have the following stable maximum u7600 overclock options:

* 1.60Ghz@FSB=160 (CPU multilpler=x10, RAM: no changes -> required dualIDA modded bios)
* 1.60Ghz@FSB=178 (CPU multiplier=x9, RAM: no changes)
* 1.63Ghz@FSB=181 (CPU multiplier=x9, RAM: CAS=5)
* 1.55Ghz@FSB=194 (CPU multiplier=x8, RAM: CAS=5)

The first is the easiest to setup as works with stock RAM timings and is stable. The second is slightly faster but might be problematic. The third and forth require the RAM SPDtable to be modified with Thaiphoon Burner to have CAS=5. Compared to 1.5@166Mhz FSB, 1.5@187Mhz sees Win7's WEI desktop video and ram increase by 0.2 points as shown on the top of this post.

 

Can you boot XP without the optical drive installed, then hotplug it and do a "Scan Hardware"? Does XP see it and allow you to use the optical drive? If so, that means they can work concurrently together and only hiccup is the bios.

In which case I'd suggest isolating pin 47 of your optical drive with cellophane tape to hard set it as slave as shown here. Hopefully that then prevents any miscommunication of the CS pins between both devices. I recall reading some ZIF HDDs receive an inverted CS signal for master to save power.

 

Help please

After huge problems getting the RunCore Pro IV SSD, it finally arrived. I worked out how to fit the zif cable.

Firstly I put the SSD into the laptop thinking I could format it etc, as I have the Samsung HDD in the caddy as the primary drive at present. However the laptop would not boot at all.

I then put it in the caddy that it comes with.

When I plug the usb in, the "new hardware recognised" happens but after that I do not see the drive listed in my computer.
I have gone to disk management and again it is not listed as a hard drive. If I click on removable storage the computer management program just hangs.

To test the caddy I put my old HDD into it and it works fine

Any suggestions????

Tudorlaptop

 

The 2510P bios will not boot if your Samsung HM160HC and Runcore ProIV are both set as master. To correct this:

1. Jumper your PATA Samsung HM160HC as slave. The HM160HC thread tells us:

Samsung HM160HC User Guide shows this pictorally. You'll know when this is done successfully as hitting [F9] on bios boot will present only "Optical Disk Drive" [slave].

2. Attach the Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD. Flick the ZIF stiffener to make cable insertion easy. The Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD runs as master by default.

3. Hit [F9] on bios startup, boot from "Optical Disk drive" [slave - HM160HC]

4. Device Manager should find the Runcore SSD which will allow you to format it.

In addition, I would *highly* recommend using Windows 7 setup CD to partition the SSD as it aligns partitions to 1MB boundaries for best performance. See Partition Alignment. Also Linux instructions can also do this alignment.

 

Thanks for this. I will give it a go.

If I want to be able to dual boot either from the Runcore SSd or the Samsung HDD, how do I do this?

Tudorlaptop

 

Easy. Just hit [F9] during bios boot and point to either the master or slave drive, noting HP Bios naming for each:

- select [Notebook Hard Disk] to boot the Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD (Master)
- select [Optical Disk Drive] to boot the Samsung HM160HC HDD (Slave)

Only problem could arise if you decide to clone your HDD to your SSD and it keeps the same UUID for partitions on both drives, in which case HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\MountedDevices might point to the other drive so your bootup uses both *drives*. Can map mounted partitions, their UUIDs to physical drives by viewing the Administrative Tool -> Disk Management and comparing against the MountedDevices registry settings.

If the registry gets swapped as part of such confusion, can correct by with regedit->File->"Load Hive", pointing to \Windows\system32\config\system . Alter the MountedDevices key under the keyname you assigned to the loaded Hive. Ensure you File->"Unload Hive" to commit the changes to disk.

A fresh OS load will avoid such UUID duplication.

 

Hi,

I have some good news for you guys.

Yesterday I had a telephone call with someone from HP Switzerland and he confirmed me that the HP 2540p will be released in march 2010.

Can't wait for this!

spiridow

 

Thanks for the heads up. Look forward to seeing the specs. Hope it's a substantial tech update from a 2530P.

Could the new keyboard and higher power 9-cell be a retrofitted to a 2510P/2530P?

 

i havnt windows xp. but if bios block only on the cdrom, than works on linux
i think im isolated the pin 47 and dont work henceforward

 

OK! Have both drives installed. When I boot from each disc the Booted drive becomes C, and the non-booted drive is D. Ideal!

For the new Runcore SSD I loaded the original Acronis image that I made and kept when I first got the PC. The only programs in the image other than XP, is MIcrosoft Office. I thought this was easier because all the HP drivers etc would be included

How will I know if I have UUID conflicts?



Thanks

Tudorlaptop

 

Still no webcam? I'd stick with my 2510p much longer if I had 3 things: webcam, sata port and a touch screen/tablet.

Haven't posted in a while, but have been busy with work and my trusty 2510p with SSD is my companion all the way. I love the quick boot and shutdown and with my 6cell battery I can go a long way without recharging.

I also upgraded my wifi with an Intel 4965AGN mPCIe. This was before Nando4 figured out a way to address the Bios white listing. This was a cheap (now <$15 on eBay) and easy upgrade. Just open the wifi hatch and replace the old 802.11g wifi card. I'm getting consistent 130MBps connections with my Dlink DIR-655 on 2.4GHz. I'm sure there are newer and similarly cheap mPCIe cards out there for the 5GHz band.

---

Configuration/Upgrades:
# 2GB DDR2 Sodimm
# Windows XP Pro (Installed from Scratch to remove the HP bloatware, Win7 was still in RC when I finished my SSD update, haven't had a reason to upgrade yet)
# Upgrade: 6-cell battery (good for 5-8 hours, sticks a bit out, nice compromise between size and weight)
# Removed: DVD/CDRW drive
# Removed: Internal Toshiba 80GB 4200rpm ZIF drive (noisy, slow, saves on power)
# Upgrade: eBay Optical Bay Caddy with OCZ Vertex 60GB SSD (Indilinx, fast <60s boot, <30s shutdown, better power consumption)
# Intel 4965AGN Wireless G/draft-N mPCIe (running 130Mbps w/ Dlink DIR-655 router, need fast WiFi for streaming files off my network server)
# quiet_fan SW (great mod for quieting down the my noisy fan)
# BatteryStatus.exe from PocketGeek for monitoring battery usage
# Viking Cardbus CompactFlash adapter (used for transferring photos from DSLR to my notebook, doesn't support DMA mode so get a Delkin if you need DMA)
# 4GB Transcend SD card

Pictures:
# eBay caddy upgrade project

Tried but didn't use:
# SW Overclocking, I think I got up to 1.4GHz but I didn't need the speed. Tried underclocking, but didn't see a major improvement in power consumption.
# ZIF to CF adapter w/ 8GB Transcend 300x card. Worked great initially but 8GB is not much space. I also started getting OS crashes. CF cards and the flash they use do not have the more complex controllers or higher endurance NAND that are used in today's SSDs. They are more prone to data loss and lack wear leveling. Unless running Linux or Windows embedded get a real SSD and skip this.
# Installed Win7 on my ebay caddy + OCZ Vertex using a bootable USB stick. Looks promising, but I don't have much time to configure it and get it ready as a work replacement. Heard that it uses more battery and I was seeing some slow down on writes (I was running CDM on battery). For now I'm restoring my WinXP and will come back to Win7 later.

Wishlist:
# Built-in Webcam
# SATA port
# Touchscreen
# 4GB RAM
# Internal 64-128GB ZIF SSD (e.g. Runcore Pro V)
# Run TRIM through caddy (currently I have to connect it to a SATA port on an external PC)

To Do Projects:
# OC'ed SSD benchmarks (requested by Nando4)
# Replace noisy FAN (bought Silenx IXP1114 iXtrema Pro Fan 40mm x 10mm, not sure it will fit and the HP fan is a pain to remove).

Next notebook: Acer 1420p/1810 11.6" Dual CoreTablet
No immediate plans to upgrade, but this would be my desired next notebook if the rpice ends up in the ~$500-600 range.

 

Edit...This post originally started: Help help help!

Screen is blank and will not boot. Power is on and fan is whirring

Earlier this week installed the Runcore Pro SSD. Have had the Samsung in the caddy for a few weeks. Tonight turned off so I could boot to the SSD and disaster. Power comes on and then off. Then is comes on again and the wireless light, sound mute light etc come on. However the screen stays completely black.

Have tried removing battery and holding down power key and starting again. Have tried removing caddy and booting just from SSD. Have tried removing SSD and booting just from HDD in caddy. Same thing. Black screen, fan whirring and nothing else
Tried booting with external screen plugged in, nothing.

Edit:

I then remembered that this happened once before. I had resolved it by borrowing a HDD from someone at work with the identical laptop and putting theirs into my case. Do not know why it worked but it did. So as a last resort I put the old original HDD back in its bay and hay presto, up came the BIOS and the laptop booted up. In some ways it is just as well I now have the "spare" HDD. On closer recollection the problem started when I pressed the power button to shut down when the laptop seemed to be "stuck". Something obviously gets stuck in the BIOS that changing HDD cures

TudorLaptop

 

@TudorLaptop - only way we're gonna find out the sata pins is if someone has a BGA blowgun, can remove the ICH8M I/O chip and trace the sata pins in the lower left corner to nearby solderable vias reporting their results here for the rest to benefit from. HP have put some sort of red wax around the chip so can't readily do BGA pin probing as described here.

 

small update.

recap: bought newmodeus caddy and a intel g2 80gb. Tried installing vista and win7 without luck, ubuntu installed flawlessly.

Had some time the previous weekend to test some more, and installed windows XP without any problems. Couldnt upgrade to win7 from within windows xp.(Do I have to upgrade to vista first?)

ill post some quick crystalmark results (slave mode still)
-5 tests
-100mb

before &after baredit hack. with crystalmark 3.0 (beta)




whenever I try to have it on master the booting get stuck.

Even if the SSD cant operate on its fullest, it still is a nice performance boost. XP with bios boot time is around 20sec. Access time is still far greater than that of the pata. The pata drive works now as a storage dump ^^

 

Above X25M G2 benchmarks with "1011" and "1033" show the value of 0:31:1 54h (IDE Controller). The "1011" is the ~30MB/s write mode. The "1033" is full speed write slave write mode. See here for full explanation. The 89/58 with 14-15MB/s 4kb reads is duplicated using a Marvell caddy and X25m G1 here.

INFO: Extending Battery Life

Monitoring battery usage and cpu load

The u7600 consume as little as 5.8-6.2W during in idle with LCD brightness at 3 bars, wifi on and HDD in idle. Here is another comparative u7600 system consuming 6.5W at idle. If yours is significantly higher at idle consider investigating any runaway processes or devices adding CPU load and reducing battery life with tools below. There will be some variation between 2510Ps as well, but you should definitely be < 7W idle.

Tools: batterybar | battstat | process explorer

Suggested Power Saving settings

1. X3100 graphics is set to Maximum Battery. The performance settings appear to use 1W more power. XP X3100 4990 graphics driver caused unusually high cpu utilisation after ~3 mins of usage, so I rolled back to version 4926 found on a Lenovo website which has been very reliable.

2. SoundMax audio driver

In XP I set it to High Power Savings. Found this sometimes needs to be set to "None" then "High Power Savings" after a resume-from-standby otherwise it gets stuck in an intermediate mode.

In Win7/64, I manually press mute button on the touch panel to get some noticable power savings, though it was inconsistent. I uninstalled the the Sounddriver back to the Win7 default "High Definition Audio", then I disable it. This saved 0.4W at idle.

3. 4965AGN wifi driver

Set AD-Hoc power management. Set your power levels to the minimal needed to get a good signal in your area. Might also cause power spikes, so I disable then enable the driver.

4. Disabled VPRO using 'hpbi103 write vpro.vpro_state disabled' as described here. This then unlocks the "Network Interface Controller" enable/disable option in bios, saving somewhere between 0.5-1W power. With VPRO enabled, disabling the NIC in XP doesn't appear to offer same power savings.

5. Use an undervolted DC profile using the 2510P Performance Kit. So instead of running 0.9125V@x9 divider I run 0.8625V@x9 divider and all other dividers at the lowest 0.85V setting. Extends battery life and lowers temperature.

6. Apply quiet_fan mod to decrease fan power consumption.

7. Install flashblock Firefox add-on. Flash based pages kick up CPU utilisation/power consumption.

8. Have no battery-sucking USB devices attached when running on battery.

9. Install a 93Whr 2540P 9-cell battery offering a 12% battery life improvement with newer hi-cap cell technology than the 83Whr 2510P/2530P 9-cell, or 69% better battery life than the 55Whr 6-cell. See part number details for the 93Whr battery here.

10. Perform hw_undervolt to undervolt by up to 0.1375V.

Measured Battery Life

XP's battery life indicator oscillates based on instantaneous power consumption. It shows an unrealistic up-to-12hrs battery life. I don't bother to use it so have it permanently disabled. Instead I use BatteryBar whose historic measures accurately predict total battery life.

BatteryBar shows 7.5-8hrs total battery life from a 9-cell at 66Whr capacity when doing surfing/admin work. A brand new 83Whr 9-cell would give an extra 25% (2hrs), 10hrs total. That's with the Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD, no HDD in optical bay, wifi on, LCD brightness at 3 bars brightness in XP. Impressive for two-gen old tech.

 

Is there a way to monitor the wattage usage of different programs under XP?

Been also having some problems with the intel toolbox. It wont let me run it, complains that im in raid mode.

 

INFO: Retrofitting the 2530P keyboard Could a US$20-delivered 2530P keyboard fit onto a 2510P? My visual inspection suggests the 5 screwhole mounting points line up exactly. The 2 ribbon cables and overall shape being identical with only the cosmetic differences b/w them. The 2530P keyboad having a less busy, understated, contemporary appearance with rounded-off touchstyk buttons.

2510P 2530P

2540P keyboard? doesn't fit as shown here. I've seen comments suggesting the 2540P keyboard is a step backwards in terms of look and feel anyway. So 2530P is a better option.

 

Computer: 2510p (updated to latest firmware)
SSD HD: X25-M G2 (updated to latest firmware on anothers computer - not able to do this on 2510p)
caddy: newmodeus (jumpers on it as it came - hasn't touched those yet)

Preparations:
* Ultimate Boot CD for windows (not the normal UBCD)
* obtain "snapshot" and "diskpar" (not diskpart) to be included on the usb stick (below)
* Use "Ultimate Boot USB" to convert the "UBCD win" to bootable from usb stick

Prepare HD's:
* boot from the usb stick (above), and align both (using diskpar) the 1.8" HD and the SSD HD, and both to 51200MB (quick format NTFS, 4096) . i.e. both identical partitions and both aligned
* use MBRwiz (from the usb stick) to activate boot on the SSD
* on the 1.8" HD, partition the remaining space and format it to FAT32 (needed for snapshot image)

Install:
* take out the SSD
* Install win 7 pro on the 1.8" HD - all the way. also reboot to test all ok
* turn off computer, put in SSD, boot from the usb stick
* use snapshot to take image from 1.8" HD and put it to the SSD
* we should have an working image of win7pro on an aligned bootable SSD...
* turn off computer, disconnect 1.8" HD, turn on computer and boot from SSD

This takes me to one of either
1) "Welcome..", and just freezez there
2) "Welcome..", and then black screen and freezez there
essentially I stil can't get win7 to work... I also tried with both HD's connected and boot from SSD, but with same result.

One of my first approaches before this was to try to install win7 directly on the SSD, but that only freezez up early in the install no matter what.

I'v tried tinkering with settings in BIOS without luck. My next approach will be to switch the jumpers on the caddy (need a small screw driver first to see if that helps.

I read earlier in this post about earlier bios version on 2510p. any1 got any luck to downgrade the bios? I wonder if it might help my case.

 

The Runcore ProIV SSD folks are having Win7 install issues, and they too use the Jmicron sata-to-pata chip as in the newmodeus caddy. I'm not familiar with the imaging tools you are using so can only suggest using Linux to do an exact copy of your 80GB ZIF HDD if it's working successfully, ie: booting up without problems.

That is, after booting a small Linux distribution on USB, proceed to:

Identify which drives are which

Code:

hdparm -i /dev/sda
hdparm -i /dev/sdb
hdparm -i /dev/sdc

Do a block-for-block copy from the 1.8" HDD to the X25M G2 in caddy

Code:

# dd if=[src] of=[dest] bs=4k
dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb bs=4k

Then disconnect the 80GB ZIF, jumper the newmodeus caddy as master and it should boot and run without drama. I have performed block-for-block reimaging countless times with great success. Earlier 2510P bios versions will not make any difference here.

 

[...deleted...]

 

recap: 2510p (latest bios), Intel SSD 80GB X25-M G2 (latest firmware), Newmodeus caddy, trying to get win7 on it...

what I'v done since last post above...

I made an USB linux stick (using unetbootin w/ubuntu-9.10-desktop), and then using hdparm & dd (actually had to preced the keywords with 'sudo' to get access). To 1.8" HD was successfully cloned with linux's DD to the SSD. Turned then off, disconnected the 1.8" HD, set the newmodeus to master and booted.

And.... win7 was booted up !! it said by baloon tip that the SSD was successfully installed also.
but now the downside.. whatever I did / clicked on, made the mouse pointer into an waiting state, and after about a minute or so gave an blue screen (error) and then the computer auto-reseted. At this point the SSD is not detected by the system, and I have to turn the computer off and then on to try again. Trying again doesn't help - just the same result. I also tried to go to safe mode - with same result (although no blue screen, but still not able to do anything). I also tried to reset settings in bios - with no help there either.

One special thing is that when newmodeus caddy is set to master it is detected as 'notebook computer' - i.e. master (that is when the 1.8" is disconnected). But having it on master makes the computer hang about 30-60sec on boot... Setting it to slave the hanging disapears, although booting to win7 is the same (can't do a thing).

Any more suggestions to what I should try?

 

found this link for someone else who had similar problems (different computer, etc):
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1458251

if we (2510p owners) should do a similar approach, which drivers should we download?
(this is reagrding my approach to get win7 to work - see post above)

 

Boot-hang after changing the master drive

There are some drive signatures that get stored in bios eeprom that appear to require overwriting to get rid of the hang. A couple of ways to try: (i) remove battery+AC power, press and hold power button for 1min to clear CMOS settings (ii) try to flash downgrade to F.0A (iii) remove CMOS eeprom chip from it's socket in the 1.8" drive bay for 1 minute, reinstall.

Some other random suggested steps to overcome your Win7 hang:

1. Disable all unnecessary devices in CMOS setup , boot Win7 and see if makes a difference. Could even disable Vpro/TPM which allows NIC to then be disabled in setup.

2. Try ebay caddy with Marvell sata-to-pata bridge chip. Hardset it to master. Set 1.8" HDD as slave or just disconnect it while testing. I have confirmed this 2.5" + 1.8" setup using my 500GB sata HDD and ebay caddy and believe newmodeus return policy would refund you due to incompatibility if found to be the root problem. The Marvell chip is also slightly better performing, but uses 1W versus 0.8W. Order ASAP if wanting to try as the shipping takes a while.

 

updates of what I'v tried:

This did not make any change about hanging long if ssd is set to master

No difference

I did not see any new options to disable the NIC in bios after this. Win7 now goes blue screen almost instantly if booted from the ssd.

 

Have you ordered the ebay caddy? w0lla also has a X25M G2 in a newmodeus caddy, working at least with XP and Linux. Perhaps w0lla can assist?

 

Well I had (have) the same problems as rr3636. Its just vista/7 which gives problems, Xp and ubuntu installed without problems. Having the caddy on master, gives the bios boot hickup, with and without the 1.8 pata installed.

 

Pew, things aren't going too well with my Runcore IV 128 GB PATA. I am now on my 3rd one, after two RMA to MyDigitalDiscount:

Disk 1. I got it, and started to run the clone programme. It then showed to be only 64 GB, despite that it clearly said 128 GB on the label and all numbers was for the 128 GB. Weird! Anyway I sent it back and received a new one. Proper 128 GB this time.

Disk 2. Installed Win7 after some troubles. I went via the original Vista recovery disks to reformat disk. I then installed a fresh Win7 on the disk (no upgrade). Worked fine for a week. Fast and nice. I made all sorts of driver updates and program installations on the way, and suddenly it started to freeze soon after windows loading. Again and again and again. I then fresh reinstalled everything, and loaded all drivers with the help of HP SoftPaq Download Manager. But really soon it started to make trouble again, freezing right on or immediately after windows load. Interestingly, it works all fine in Safe mode. Despite trying (loading the disk hard) I have not been able to get it to freeze in safe mode. Anyway, after having some (good) contact with the Runcore support ("probably bad blocks"), I made yet another RMA to MyDigitalDiscount.

Disk 3. Got it today. Installed Win7 again via formatting from original recovery dvds. Started to load all drivers through HP SoftPaq Download Manager. Plus windows updates. And AntiVirus (Norton). Then....again... freeze after reboot and Windows loading. Aaarghh! Again, Safe mode works fine.

This leads me to think that maybe it isn't a hardware thing after all. Is there a conflict with the antivirus? with the regular Win updates? With any of the HP drivers? Can any of you others with Runcore 128 ZIF PATA confirm if you have used the HP SoftPaq Download Manager and installed all recommended drivers with success?

Any other ideas?

 

Since it works in Safe Mode, sounds like a OS build problem. Could confirm that by loading the OS+software and testing on your ZIF HDD, then when satified it's all OK, clone it to your Runcore ProIV SSD. 64GB ProIV has worked very well for me.

 

That would be a way of doing it. I'lll try to try it it if this fails again. I have Win7 on my original 100 GB HDD, but that was a Win7 upgrade from the original Vista. Maybe if I did a fresh install on the HDD it would hang as well... Hmmm, somehow I am quite happy to have one disk (!) that works, and doesn't feel like experimenting too much with that

I have not been able to clone the disk to the SSD, with any of my three attempts. Just doesn't work (lack of patiens perhaps, I haven't got the time to track down why it won't clone. I find it easier to just do fresh install).

Anyway, I can update that I have now run it for a full day with a minimum of hardware drivers installed besides those originally installed during Win 7 installation (only adds from HP are Synaptics and WWAN drivers (incl. wireless assistant and Sierra watcher). And i skipped Norton for Win Security Essentials instead, just to test. Besides that I only installed Firefox, Thunderbird, MSOffice 2007 and Adobe CS4 software so far. And, as said, it works great so far.

*keep the hopes up*

 

One more thing,
When I try to do the quite-fan-mod I get an error at the end of the cmd process "Error: could not access the registry path: System\CurrentControlSet\Services\ACPI\Parameters\DSDI\HP___\nc2500\00010000"

Do you happen to know why? And would it be possible to do the mod in the registry directly, or somewhere else? Cheerio.

 

listings of ebay 2510P pata or sata-to-pata caddy have stopped

UPDATE: If you were contemplating the bargain ebay pata, sata-to-pata or DVD-USB enclosure, perhaps a good time to jump in now as two of the big suppliers have stopped ebay listings. Not sure if it's a temporary or permanent arrangement. See comment here.

The ebay caddies are about half the price of their newmodeus equivalent, with the sata-to-pata being slightly faster and *might* have less compatability issues with the X25M G2 SSD + Win7 than rr3636/w0lla have had here with the newmodeus caddy. See full comparison.

Try running 'load.bat' with a user that's in the admin group. Sounds like you don't have admin registry write access.

 

Thanks Nando. I was logged in as administrator, but I also had to disable UAC completely to get it to work. But it installed successfully, and should work now. And true enough, it is silent as a mouse. Great thing!

 

I just orderd a newmodes drive caddy, if i understand correctly it will not work with windows7 ?

 

No problems reported when used with a harddisk. Note Win7 issue here and here when using this caddy with a Intel X25M G2 SSD. Appears due to the use of the Sunplus SATALink sata-to-pata chip.

We are not clear if the Marvell sata-to-pata equipped ebay caddy has the same Win7 SSD problems. None were reported by sfsilicon who used an OCZ Vertex with ebay caddy.

A great SSD deal: 60GB Agility 2.5" sata SSD for $129 after MIR + US$27-delivered ebay sata-to-pata caddy.

 

update:
I ordered the ebay caddy (only 1 week delivery time , and installed windows 7 successfully on it on first try (from usb stick). so far no hickups.

so conclusion:
Intel X25M G2 SSD + 2510p + Win7 + newmodeus caddy = no go
Intel X25M G2 SSD + 2510p + Win7 + ebay caddy = success

one thing thought, I had to screw of some parts on the ebay caddy to make it fit. It's not obvious if you don't have the newmodeus caddy to look on. ebay caddy is not so pretty installed either, so I will try to make the cover from the newmodeus caddy to fit on the ebay caddy.

 

While the ebay caddy's faceplate doesn't taper, I found from the normal viewing angles it looks OEM. Only when the system is flipped over, the faceplate gap reveals it is not OEM. Also, another 2510P owner had mistakenly inverted the rear eye bracket on the caddy, so it would appear to fit, but the faceplate was slightly forward. Correctly placing the bracket allows a flush fit. If you post photos it will be possible to identify if that is the case.

Could you please post some benchmarks with the X25M G2 in the ebay Marvell caddy please? Would be useful to compare against w0lla's newmodeus caddy results here. This thread has made great strides disproving earlier claims of the caddy not working by supposed 2510P owners would appear, post, then disappear. Now we have legitimate 2510P owners showing these newmodeus/ebay caddies do work with the latest SSDs with great performance. This extends the longevity of pata systems.

 

Should I be worried? I have RunPro SSD ZIF and the Samsung 160Gb in the caddy. I am running XP

I have had two messages of corrupt files on the Samsung that needed CheckDisk to fix. While running chkdsk I got messages such as "deleting corrupt attribute (128 ""), deleting orphan file record, deleting index entry.

I do admit that I am sometimes booting from the SSD and sometimes from the Samsung HDD. Could this be causing problems? The SSD was loaded with XP fresh and the program fresh, but the Samsung HDD was an image of my original HDD before I removed it

Thanks

Tudorlaptop

 

Found!
..........

 

As linked from first post, see Purchasing a replacement 2510P-specific ZIF cable.

 

I tested this command, and I see that I had access to udma6 on the SSD disk (only udma5 on the ZIF disk). I changed the SSD to udma6 and did a benchmark with no change from previous benchmarks. So does this help at all? what's the purpose of changing it? (both disks was set to udma5 before I did something).

I tested the baredit trick to change the SSD slave modus write speed to double - and it worked.

but back to the dhparm above. beside changing udma mode I saw that you could set standby mode on disk. Could this mean: SSD disk on full power & no standby, and the ZIF disk on standby after 5min? (this selection is not possible in the normal power options in windows).

 

THe 2510P's ICH8M I/O controller can do up to UDMA5/ATA100, 100MB/s read and 88.9MB/s write. UDMA6 interface speed is not available.

Yes, hdparm gives a lot more control over HDD standby than Windows power management. Example, you could run 'hdparm -y -S 12 /dev/sdb' to set standby timeout on the slave HDD to 1min and to standby now.

Could you post your X25M G2 SSD + ebay (Marvell) caddy crystaldiskmark 3.5 benchmarks please? Would like to compare against w0lla's X25M G2 SSD + newmodeus (Sunplus) benchmarks posted here.