*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

I didn't findt this version, but found version 3.0 beta3.

update: I found out how to get win7 working on the newmodeus caddy also. read below for info.

ebay caddy:
I'v tested WinXP (remember to align disk) and Win7 flawlessly installed with this caddy. I don't know if Win7's TRIM function is properly supported, but it does pass along enough inforamtion to get the Intel's Toolbox manual TRIM tool to function (a very good thing). You can have partitions normally on this setup. I recomend you install on a fresh disk with no partitions to let win7 (if you install that one) partition it up for you and let it create the 100mb hidden partition (good thing to have). To get this caddy working with the ZIF HD you suposedly (acording to start of this thread) need to bridge pins on it's ZIF connectors. I tried that, and ended up with broken pin 1... so for me atleast I found that solution very hard. Because of that I have not yet been able to use both HD's at the same time.

newmodeus caddy:
WinXP: can be installed flawlessly. remember to align disk first.
Win7: access to both caddys: install win7 on the SSD with the ebay caddy. With only the newmodeus caddy: install win7 on the ZIF HD (align ZIF + SSD, preferable with equal size too on the partition). After one of these 2 installs you need to issue in admin mode in win7: "fsutil behavior set disabledeletenotify 1". Shut down. if you installed on the SSD, move the SSD to newmodeus caddy. if you installed on the ZIF HD, use any clone tool to clone the partition to the SSD. you don't need block by block things. Remember to use BMRWiz to set active on the SSD if you haven't done that before. Use baredit to undo the half speed on slave (important). One other thing... this caddy doesn't support multiple partitions on the SSD in Win7 (it's fine in XP).

Regarding the "fsutil" command above, it seems it affects ALL SSD's that has TRIM enabled in firmware and is connected to sertain PATA->SATA connectors (i.e. newmodeus). Read more up on it here: Disable TRIM on Win7

If you do go for the newmodeus caddy, you will lose TRIM. Currently warp & intel's toolbox tool (and linux also as far as it looks) is currently not able to TRIM raid devices - which newmodeus caddy is discovered as... So what you need is a replacement for TRIM: Tony-TRIM

So after much back and forth, I'v ended up with using newmodeus caddy with WinXP. I haven't tested the Tony-TRIM yet, but the Baredit trick works. With this caddy you don't need to hardwire stuff to get both HD's to work at same time (what I wanted).

I'm also using 4GB memory. With "superspeed ramdisk plus 10" I'm able to setup an ramdisk in the memory not accesible to windows; i.e a 950MB ramdisk without losing any of the memory maximum visible in windows. it supports saving/loading of image on boot/shutdown - so all temp files go there (browser, windows temp, antivirus log files, etc).

Here is the benchmarks for the different setups I tested:

 

A great piece of technical investigative work. +rep. The main difference here:

ebay sata-to-pata caddy: Marvell 88SA8040 sata-to-pata chip
newmodeus sata-to-pata caddy: Sunplus SPIF223A sata-to-pata chip

The Jmicron JM20330 is also used on the Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD.

 

problems with BAR-edit 3.2 (only version I could find). Changing the setting to 1033 as indicated earlier in this thread do work. the 50% slave speed is turned into 100% speed on writes. so yes, workes.

But I found out that the "apply save on startup" doesn't apply on startup. Somehow my settings is not applied on boot. When I clicked "apply save on startup" it created a folder: "C:\BAR_Save" with 2 files within:

BAR_Edit.ini

StartUp.ini

Anyone have a solution for me? Would be very nice to have this setting loaded on boot...

 

copy c:\program files\BAR-Edit\BAR-Edit to c:\BAR_Save

 

Didn't help.
Anything else? change in boot files, registry, etc?

Edit:
Found it out. It had created an shortcut in "start->all programs->startup". I deleted that one, and re-created it from the c:\bar_save location. weird, but that fixed it.

 

might be interesting:
HP 2530p Disassembly instructions
http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalciti...iCountry/disassembly_notebo_2008820191116.pdf

 

INFO: solution to 30 second bios hang when using a caddy

There have been numerous mentions of 30second bios hangs when using a SSD or HDD in a caddy on a 2510P. I did some testing to identify the conditions causing this hang. Results on the right and summarized below: newmodeus caddy: when running as master, would cause the 30second hang with bios F.0E. Downgrading to F.0A saw no more bios hang. Upgrading the bios back to F.0E saw the return of the 30second bios boot hang. ebay caddy: has no boot hangs

caddy +500GB Fujitsu sata HDD​ mode bios​

F.0E	F.0A
newmodeus sata-to-pata	master	30s hang	no hang
	slave	no hang
ebay sata-to-pata	master	no hang

[/TD] Solution: downgrade to F.0A bios from here if affected OR run the caddy as slave, or use a ebay caddy. This solution may also be applicable to pata HDDs as well.

 

a problem. My screen on 2510p doesn't turn off. Running WinXP SP3

settings:
display properties->screen saver(blank)5min
display properties->power->turn off monitor 5min

after reboot the screen goes blank after 5min (not turn off). If I go into the power setting above and just click ok (without chaning anything) it turns off after 5min instead. I'v tried using screen saver timer before and after "turn off" timer without any changes.

I want my monitor to turn off after 5min without me going into power setting after each reboot.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

2540p hands on !!

http://www.slashgear.com/hp-elitebook-2540p-rugged-ultraportable-hands-on-2875788/

 

Had anyone else tried to use one of these marvels in the 2510p?

I have purchased two off of ebay, both are working like a charm in my Intel945GSEJT based HTPC - but none of them runs in the 2510p. As I'm not using the WWAN module, I have tried to install it there. The notebook starts up, but the card is not recognised - but starts to warm up heavily, while it is relatively cool in the HTPC even when being used.

It would be a great addition, as this is not only asssiting in HD video playback, but can also help flash animations thus lower overall consumption.

Thanks
Tamas

 

Tempting to try to use the spare mPCIe wwan slot, though you'll find the Broadcom Crystal HD card won't be detected in there or even if placed in the wifi slot. Why? 2510P's two mPCIe slots are both bios whitelisted. Worth noting the differences between them too:

- wifi slot (pci-e pins are connected, usb are not)
- wwan slot (usb pins are connected, pci-e are not)

The wifi slot is in effect deactivated unless the bios sees a whitelist compatible card on bootup. For your Broadcom Crystal HD card to be seen, you'd need to swap in the wifi card so the bios sees it during boot, then swap out the wifi for the Broadcom Crystal card. Not too convenient.

Thankfully there is a whitelisting workaround here, ie: DIY VIDock bootdisk + whitelst.bat. With some minor effort the procedure can be integrated nicely into the XP/Win7 bootloader by saving the resultant floppy image and booting it using grub4dos' grldr. Chainloading would look like: grldr -> DIY VIDock floppy image with whitelst.bat -> chainload OS using grub4dos. See here and here for more info.

Great - looks like the chiclet 2540P keyboard and 93Whr 9-cell or 62Whr 6-cell battery might be retrofittable to the 2510P/2530P.

 

These cards were also announced in expresscard 34 form. Has anyone actually seen a broadcom decoder expresscard? I have been looking for them from time to time on ebay, but nothing seems to be available.

TIA for any info you may have.

 

New 1.8" PATA ZIF SSD :c http://www.activemp.com/SSD/18-IDE-PATA-ZIF-SSD-ZT-turbo.htm
Claims 100/80 read/write speed

I've personally just switched to Kingspec 128GB SSD which is quite satisfactory after my Samsung HS122JC just died !
Also upgraded U7600 to L7700 motherboard

 

Active Media has two lines, the newer Turbo line and the non-Turbo line which I *think* is the same as the Super Talent drives. They are only available on Amazon. I just ordered the non-Turbo 64gb version yesterday for $200 which should work on the 2510p. I'll let people know how it turns out.

 

New to forum
Can someone suggest a snug neoprene sleeve for the 2510?

 

Hi

I have a plain factory setup HP 2510p.

I want to get an SSD (to replace the hard drive) for around $200. Which ones work (someone here is using it) for the 2510p?

Specifically, what the hell is ZIF and all these caddy things that I hear about on this forum?

Cheers

Greg

 

Can you post L7700 WEI, wprime32 and Passmark benchmarks like shown here?

Quite high power consumption on the turbo of 0.85W/1.8W-2.6W idle/active. non-turbo runs the same SMI controller as a Kingspec SSD.

Can follow the links from the first post. For a SSD upgrade can suggest either:

1.8" ZIF SSDs as shown here. Runcore ProIV offering high bang-per-buck. Runcore revealing they will be using a new sata-to-pata bridge chip in an updated product here so worth a small wait for likely better compatibility or performance.

2.5" sata SSDs via a 9.5mm sata-to-pata optical bay caddy, recommending ebay caddy for higher SSD compatability. You forfeit the use of the optical drive. Indilinx based SSDs like OCZ Vertex/Agility giving faster 4kb read performance than Intel SSDs for our single queue application. 1.8" HDD can be jumpered as slave to be used as an additional slow storage repository.

 

I'll try to find some time to make the benchs...
Regarding Kingspec SSD, note that it comes in two flavors : one with SMI controller (70/38 MB read/write) and one with Jmicron 602B controller (71/52 MB read/write) both in 128MB capacity. Tried both and Jmicron makes the difference.

 

Bad news - AMP 64gb ZIF SSD does not work on the 2510p. I get a disk read error asking for reboot using Windows Vista...once I reboot I can get into Vista but disaster happens and the screen is all messed up. Windows XP doesn't work either.

I think the AMP may be the same as the Super Talent, and visually *looks* the same as the new Bullet Proof drives from My Digital Discount. Until someone verifies a working config, I would avoid these 3.

 

I must be going blind because I simply can't find anything like that on my newmodeus caddy, if I power the laptop with the caddy in then I can't boot, if I remove the caddy then it boots, that's whether I have multibay enabled or disabled.

Can anyone let me know where I am going wrong?

 

Check if your circuit board is Rev_A or Rev_C. The newer Rev_C as shown here has the slave jumper. You could mod the Rev_A circuit board attaching 3.3V via 10K resistor to pin 33 (MSSEL) as described in the jm20330 datasheet to set it to slave. Though easier to ask newmodeus for a replacement board.

 

Well I have the Rev_C board but no pins for the jumpers. Makes sense now as to why it wouldn't allow me to boot.

Waiting for NewModeUS to get back to me but tbf their QA process needs some work on it.

 

The jumperless newmodeus sata-to-pata caddy you have defaults to Master mode. It will allow your sata SSD or HDD to boot if you either:

- disconnect the 1.8" Toshiba ZIF HDD
- or set the 1.8" Toshiba ZIF HDD to be slave by wedging a wire between it's pin1+pin2 as shown here

 

Hello Everybody,

Does Driveguard works with a 2,5" harddrive in Multibay?

 

Above: 1.8" ZIF HDD as master and 2.5" sata HDD in newmodeus optical bay caddy as slave

We can see that driveguard is active but doesn't support the 2.5" 500GB sata HDD. So I would suggest a sata hdd would need it's own free fall sensor to offer some protection. Can anyone volunteer to check to see if their pata hdd does come up as supported when using a pata optical bay caddy?

Revised US$24-shipped 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy by Notebookelite with 'fenvi' label

Right: notebookelite's revised product with stronger metal chassis and faceplate to previously reviewed ebay caddy. Link has been updated with these images.

 

Hi, I followed the instructions on the first page to overclock the u7700 processor on my 2510p.
However, it does not seem to work. The processor cant be overclocked or underclocked no matter what settings I changed. The correct clock generator ha been selected. Even downloading the entire zip package and running the script does not work. Any idea why it is so? Am running Win 7 Home Premium.

 

Not clear why this is the case. As strange as it may sound, suggest apply the quiet_fan as one positive side effect is I now now longer get a frozen PLL after resume-from-standby. Suggest:

1. Cold boot system and try setfsb overclocking as shown here using ICS 9LPRS355BGLF PLL.
2. If doesn't work, suspend/resume the system and try again.
3. If unsuccessful, capture setfsb's Diagnosis window as shown here and post. That will confirm SMBUS communication and also show if there is some discrepancy with your PLL.

There is always the pinmod PLL overclock option: TME_unlock, FSLx or FSLx+BSEL described here, shown here. FSLx or FSLx+BSEL would require attaching a pull up resistor to the PLL's FSLb pin57. Such an overclock would take your U7700-1.33 to 1.66Ghz.

 

Hi Nando,

First off...thanks for all the great work you've (and others, but you're getting singled out ) done with the 2510p. From the looks of my Googling...you've been at this for a while.

I love the 2510p for its size & performance...but lately, it seems like its taken a nose dive.

1) PC has been operating (in the dock) at stable 60C-65C and sometimes higher with the fan almost always buzzing, no matter what the processor load. A variety of the temperature monitor programs yielded that he HDD (I have the original Toshiba) was also running farily warm, 60+C.

If I remove the laptop from the dock...the fan slows down pretty fast. The temp of the CPU's drops and the HDD temp plummets. It does oscilate up in temp to similar states, but much less oftern. All is well. Could it really be just being docked that causes this issues? I know its one poorly designed dock, but that bad?

Connected to the dock is a 24" Dell display...could that be causing the 2510p GPU to drive extra hard? Is there anyway to monitor how the GPU is doing? Is it the HDD (this way people go to the Caddy other then just data transfer)?

NOTE: this isall after I've performed the DSDT table Quiet Fan mod.

2) Leads me to Q 2...this didnt always used to be the case. The 60-70% speed fan used to come on occasionally when docked, not like the 90% of the time it is coming at the high RPM now. Is this more likely dust/gunk clogged up in the inside? I've tried to blow everything out without opening 'er up...got some stuff out...but do I really need to take everything apart? At that point, should I be swapping in new thermal paste?

3) I read up on undervolting...looked good to me, knock the power consumption down (and get lower temps), why not. Using RM Clock. Seem to be able to run the normal 1.2GHz clock @ 0.850V no problem. However, im still not noticing a substantial drop in CPU temp. At full voltage...stress testing for over 10min was yield ~82C. Now @ 0.850V, the same stress test is getting it down to about ~76-77C. Should it be lower?

4) Process hogging, up until I started doing all the tweaking the last few days...if I closed all my apps and let the 2510p idle...it would eventually get very low on the process task bar. Now, theres contanst (and repetive) overall process spikes...almost like a very fast sawtooth wave.

5) Battery Life - lastly, thought that by undervolting I was going to get a bit more battery life. I used to get 4-5hrs (6-cell battery) no sweat when travelling, even at modest brightness. With all the same settings...post undervolting, the 2510p was getting <2hrs of juice when on DC power? Could I have screwed something up in undervolting it that causes this much drain?

Anyways, your help and expertise is greatly appreciated. Once I clean the bad boy back to a good state, its hopefully time to start looking into the much more advanced mods ive been reading up on.

Cheers,
Tifosi Jeff

 

Recent x3100 video drivers can cause high CPU utilisation after ~3 mins of usage on XP

Something that was duplicated on my 2510P with recent X3100 video drivers. Here explains high interrupts with assocated 30% cpu utilisation after a few minutes of usage and here explains driver downgrade to 6.14.10.4926 ( 7ld140ww.exe) corrects the issue. I run that version and confirm no reoccurence of this problem. First thing I'd suggest trying on your system to see if it corrects your problems.

 

Hi Nando,

Interesting. I will note that I am (and have been using for quite some time) and older driver downloaded from the HP website. 6.14.10.4831. Do you think this issue could have existed before? Since I hadnt had an issue before all the tweaking and havent updated the driver recently I would suspect it not to be the culprit. However, might be a good time to get up to recent driver. Would you recommend the Lenovo one over something of HP's website?

Is there a program you would recommend for really pickng out what is causing CPU% drain?

However, the more intriguing items for me at the moment are how to nock this damn fan noise down...which I believe is related to my CPU, HDD or GPU temps. Is it "normal" to have CPU temps in the mid-60C's? Even after and undervolting?

Cheers,
Tifosi

 

Microsoft's Process Explorer can identify the cause of high CPU utilisation at idle. Suggest too disable rmclock altogether and do a cold boot. It alters C3/C4 states which play a large part in keeping cpu in an idle state. Oh, and suggest use Flashblock to ensure Firefox/Explorer isn't churning away on background flash-based webpage.

 

Thanks Nando.

Looks like RM Clock was acting as the culprit. BTW, what are typical CPU core temps on your 2510p...at idle and at max CPU loading?

When setting/editng the DSDT settings...do all BIOS FW's use the same values for the temp/fan points? Or will different versions have different defaults?

Also, for BIOS...I assume all are not created equal. Which one do you currently run?

Cheers,
Tifosi

 

F.0A and F.0E have the same DSDT table. I'm using F.0E. F.0A downgrade useful if getting a 30sec bios hang with a caddy described here.

[email protected] overclocked sees ~60/62 idle/light load with warm ambient temps, 56-58 with cooler ambient temps. That's with a 1.8" HDD and 2.5" sata HDD running, both USB ports in use. Can hear the fan start up when it gets to 68degrees under CPU load occasionally. Win7's Aero interface causes slightly higher temps due to GPU loading as well. See maximum 79 degrees under Everest Stability test with the HDD, CPU, RAM all being heaving loaded.

 

anyone had any similar overclocking success on the nc2400?

 

Hello

I'm having a bit of trouble with my 2510p

Bought it about a year ago and installed a Kingspec 64gb in it - first one was DOA, but second one worked. Have been using it with no problems since.

Until 14 days ago when it just stopped working. At first it just slowed down and made the laptop use several minutes for booting. But after three reboots it could only load the Win7 logo and then nothing happens - tried to format it with no luck..

Last week i got a new Kingspec (which by the way seemed to be better quality in a new casing) - i've been using it for a week until today when it died - just like the one 14 days ago :s

Could it be the laptop killing the drives?? In my mind it makes no sence - it should either work or not?

 

By the way I have a CF-ZIF converter with a 2GB CF card running Linux Mint - so far no problems..

 

Likely the SSD itself has inferior quality flash modules. Could RMA it and get something from the selection here or go a ebay sata-to-pata caddy + decent 2.5" sata SSD. New 1.8" Runcore ProIV Redux ZIF SSD, when released soon, should be the highest performance MLC ZIF SSD on the market. The Photofast G-Monster V4 ZIF SSD proving to be very reliable but at a relatively high cost.

 

I have the Runcore SSD ZIF which I installed December 2009

Yesterday everything was fine

Today could not boot from the SSD, but could boot from the HDD in the Optical Bay.
Tried restoring image of the drive from yesterday's Acronis back-up. Will not boot. When I boot from the HDD, the Runcore SDD is shown. I formatted it and can then transfer a file or folder to the SDD and it seems to be fine. Then tried restoring again from Acronis and still will not boot from SDD

Decided to try loading Windows afresh. Removed HDD and ran Windows install from drive that is now in an external caddy. Seemed to go through all the process and then got blue screen error message that disk was corrput and need to run chkdsk /f The error code was as follows
STOP: 0xoooooo7B (0xF78D2524 0XC0000034)

CAn anyone explain what is going on

OK now editing my own post

Booted into HDD. Restored Acronis to SDD again and got messages about disk problem. Then went run/cmd then Ran chkdsk /f on the SSD (when I remembered how to change the drive chkdsk would work on)
Suddenly long scrolling screen with rolling messag that "Replacing invalid security id with default security id for file ...." I let this run for a few minutes until it finiished
It all seemed to work except the bluetooth and the wireless did not work. I tried lots of things to get them to work to no avail. I decided to reload the image again to see if that would cure things. This failed saying there were bad sectors on the disk.

Now I cannot access the SDD in any way and I cannot reun chkdsk as the disc in not seed

Seems like the SSD has indeed broken

Maybe I'll buy a new laptop



TudorLaptop

 

Not sure if anyone can help me with this, and please let me know if I post this in the wrong section.

I have a 2510p that I use for work. Recently had the LCD replaced in it and also Win 7 upgrade done (I didn't do the actual work - company IT staff did)...

Anyways, the issue I'm having is that if I attempt to lower the brightness using the function keys or in Windows, once I get below about 60%, the screen goes almost black. In other words, in a single "step", it goes from bright enough to a point where you can barely see the screen (and the left of the screen is darker than the right).

Ideas/suggestions ?? I know they grabbed the LCD from a similar HP laptop (but not necessarily a 2510p).

Thanks.

 

Try disabling the LED ambient light sensor in the bios and try again. Otherwise could be is a unique circumstance introduced by the third-party LCD panel as my stock supplied HP panel does an incremental decrease in brightness when pressing Fn-F9.

Appears the SSD is faulty -> consider RMAing it and/or waiting for a Runcore ProIV Redux SSD to be released.

i-core based 2540P, Lenovo x201, Toshiba R700/705 or Acer 1830T all worthy system upgrades to a 2510P.

 

I changed my os from Windows to Ubuntu 10.04 and have the first big problem...

in 10.04 you can't load dsdt tables anymore, for using custom dsdt you have to recompile your kernel and do this at every new kernel.

This is no good solution at all ...and it is annoying of course.

Can we maybe just patch the dsdt in a bios file and flash a patched dsdt directly into bios?

or do you think of any other solutions? fan is annoying loud without custom dsdt table

thx, best regards
andreas

 

This 2510P bios is compressed and checksum protected, so binary changes to it are not so easy. semi could help if that was required. A kernel recompile would be easiest to add the DSDT override capability.

 

Thx for your help. Will try this - even if it is annoying...

 

I signed up to thank Nando4 for the "INFO: Almost silent fan using a custom ACPI dsdt table" mod. My 2510p has had the noisy fan problem since I got it (refurbished) from HP. I will be taking the bar exam later this month, and needed to solve this frustrating problem before I go and sit in a room with hundreds of people who would be very annoyed by it (first of all, me). I loaded the fix yesterday, and my laptop has been blissfully quiet since then.

 

I bought a external USB enclosure for 14$, but not like http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-compaq-voodoo-pc/352887-2510p-owners-lounge-32.html#post5622281 without bezel, I bought one with a bezel. If someone is interested in picures/howto/test ... pls say it.

Also you can put me in your list in the first post, i've got the ebay ide caddy working with a WD Scorpio Blue 250GB Pata (WD2500BEVE).
Edit: I have nothing in my 1,8" Bay, so you can but "none" instead of "???" there
Edit2: And i have a custom dsdt table (but with -for me- better values than you put in. My fan doesn't go from 30% -> 70% because 70% is very loud (and sometimes i reached the 70% for a short time). I did a slower step like 30% -> 50%. This is better for me.)

But one thing is not good, there is this little latch between the caddy and the HP ... did someone ever try to replace the caddys faceplate with the one from the Multiburner?

 

My Enclosure came today!

To say this one first: It fits nearly perfect and the quality is very good.

Here is the album..

Next step is to put the old faceplate on the harddrivebay adapter to close the latch.

 

HP BIOS F.0E bug? 2 healthy batteries stopped charging, orange LED continuously on.

Hello 2510p lounge,

The problem started 10 days ago: nearly 3 years old 6-cell battery would not recharge beyond 31% although a few days earlier it was fine with over 5 hours available. Orange "charging" LED remained on. Status (in Vista and Ubuntu) indicated it's charging. But the battery's charge never went up. I tried draining it completely until the laptop shutdown. Here I was with a 0% battery that would not charge itself. As dead.

I then bought a brand new (pricey) 6-cell battery. Plugged it in: 37% charge, supposedly charging. Next morning: still 37%!
My BIOS was F.04. I noticed a BIOS upgrade on HP's support site:
HP Compaq 2510p Notebook PC- Download drivers and software - HP Business Support Center

Si I upgraded BIOS to HPQFlash F.0E. ...and Hurrah! Both batteries then loaded to 100%. 5.5 hours of usage available again with my 3 yrs old battery.
Did the HP battery check software test: both batteries healthy.
But it was only a short hurrah

I then discharged the battery to 35%. Plugged the charger back in. Same problem as before: no real charging (Vista & Ubuntu), just the usual lie. I tried with the newer battery too: discharged to 93%, plugged charger: orange LED on, "battery charging", but in fact the battery is not charging at all.

I also tried the sequence: turn off, unplug. remove batt, plug in, boot, shutdown, unplug, insert batt, plug in, boot.
No success.

I reflashed the BIOS again with F.0E. No effect this time. No success.
Did the HP battery check software test: both batteries failed the test. I checked contacts with voltmeter. Voltages look good both at battery and laptop connectors.
I see other people with other HP laptops have been experiencing similar problems:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-compaq-voodoo-pc/187337-hp-new-bios-update-charges-battery-2.html

Does anyone have an idea what's going on? How can I get my 2 healthy batteries to charge again nicely like they did the night before, less than 24 hours ago?
I like the wifi's blue LED... does my laptop need Viagra?

 

You probably just need to reset the battery's internal calibration. Easiest way to do that is uncheck the "Critical battery alarm" in Power Options then run your system on battery till the battery is completely flat and powers off. Then proceed to charge it which will now accurately know it's "full charge" which is likely a lot less than it was indicating previously.

If upgrading batteries to a 9-cell suggest check if the 2540P can be retrofitted. Visual inspection from youtube/web pics indicates it might be. It's a higher 93Whr spec as opposed to the 83Whr spec of the 2510P/2530P 9-cell.

 

Thanks Nando4 but I've tried your suggestion before and stayed with a flat battery (the older one) at 0%. Also, the new battery is stuck at 93% and there's no reason why this one would need to be calibrated.

Thanks again for your attempt to help.

 

is there any progress in patching a custom dsdt table directly into bios? Kernel compiling is annoying.

or any other way of controlling the Fan?