*HP EliteBook 8560w Owners Lounge*

I know this question has come up before, and I have asked it in a different thread as well, but so far I have had mixed answers.

Can the CPU be upgraded from an i5 (dual core) to an i7 (quad core), without replacing the system board as well?

The reason I ask is because there might be different system boards which do not supply enough power to the CPU.
Since this is 'our' lounge, I was wondering whether somebody has successfully upgraded his CPU without replacing the system board as well. Looking at replacement parts doesn't help really, as these may be specific for those who have a malfunctioning CPU or something.
Additionally, it would good to know whether they used a 'white-listed' CPU or gone to something which is not on the replacement parts list (like a 2920XM or something).

PS I am not worried about overheating, plenty of solutions out there for this. Just whether any i7 CPU's will run properly without frequent shutdowns (or even occastional ones).

 

please delete

 

Sorry, I haven't had any time to look at this, but I did find a fix for the DCOM error:

Event 10016: The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Launch permission for the COM Server application with CLSID {C97FCC79-E628-407D-AE68-A06AD6D8B4D1} - ITExperience.NET

 

@brownmichaelw

Thanks Bro! I did exactly what the solution described and it looks like I no longer see that error msg, which is great!!! However, the shutdown and restart issues still exist!!!

See Attached New Log...

I think this is the culprit error:
|CWLAN::SignalStrengthChanged|Fire_SignalStrengthChanged failed [hr:0x800706BA]

Please Help!

Thank You!

 

Guyz , i know that the new HP 8570w provides a backilight keyboard aslo in Europe .....(witch was not the case with the 8560w that was provided in usa ..)

my question is : seeing that those are the same barebone ...anybody found bakclight keyboard parts for France !! ?

 

Hello
Can I use a Quadro 2000M (Dell brand) to upgrade the Quadro 1000M in my HP 8560W? If it is possible, do I have to flash BIOS or something to adjust the graphic card?

Thanks

 

Hello Guys
Yesterday I TURN OFF my 8560W and today can’t start up, when I press the power button all led light goes on for a second (repeat this 4 time himself) and after that nothing(nothing on screen, not a sound from fan-just nothing).
Is this workstation having some kind of self diagnostic?
Please help……any suggestions…?
Thanks

 

I got notification of this, but can't seem to download it, seems it isn't published as a driver yet. Keep on the lookout though:

SUPPORT COMMUNICATION - PRODUCT CHANGE NOTIFICATION

Document ID: c03497772

Version: 1
NOTEBOOK - System BIOS Update F.28 for 8560w

Release Date: 2012-09-17

Last Updated: 2012-09-19
DETAILS OF CHANGE

Added Max SATA Speed option in F10 BIOS Setup (Computer Setup). This will allow the user to set the maximum SATA speed to 6.0 Gbps or to 3.0 Gbps.
Fixed an issue where the BIOS Power On feature would not wake up the computer from the Off state in certain scenarios.
Fixed an intermittent issue where the optical drive tray would not open when the eject button was pressed.
Fixed an intermittent issue where the battery may not start to charge if it had been fully discharged.
Fixed an intermittent issue where some computers would not boot from Solid State Drives (SSDs).

SUPPORT URL

HP EliteBook 8560w Mobile Workstation -  Download drivers and software - specify product name - HP Business Support Center
REASON FOR CHANGE

F10 BIOS Setup (Computer Setup) quarterly refresh maintenance release.
IMPACT OF CHANGE

By default, the new F10 BIOS Setup (Computer Setup) option, "Max SATA Speed," will be set to 6.0 Gbps.
DATE OF CHANGE

Effective Date: 2012-09-20

Michael

 

@ brownmichaelw Any luck Bro? Thanks

 

Just FYI
The reason 8560w to not start was defect RAM stick Corsair cmso4gx3m1a1333c9.
Someone with updated BIOS to F.28 to conform everything is OK
I mean Turbobost.

 

My 8560w will no longer turn off. This is true whether I initiate a reboot, a shutdown, or even sleep mode. I see Windows shutting down and get a black screen, but the keyboard backlight stays on and the fan keeps blowing pretty hot air. It will stay this way for hours. I have to hold the power button down for 5 seconds to actually cut power.

Running Windows 7 64-bit Enterprise. 12GB RAM. 120GB SSD primary, 500GB 7200rpm drive in Multibay.

Thanks for any assistance.

Nathan

 

If you boot into safe mode (F8 at boot), would Windows shut down correctly from there?

 

I have the exact same setup and the same problem. I will post again if I find a solution.

 

It will in my case. I found in the event viewer that it is a windows problem, but have no clue how to solve it.

 

This is just a long shot but reinstall/update chipset drivers and whatever relates to power management, ACPI, things like that.

I know reinstalling windows would work but usually that is just too much work as a first thing to try. Maybe running System Restore to a point where computer worked correctly. If it then shuts down as it should, run all the updates and hope for the best...

 

I have a similar setup using Windows 7 Enterprise 64bit and have the exact same problem and has been present since out of the box and two Windows installations, both 32bit and 64bit and a resent BIOS update. However, I found a pattern in my case. When leaving the WiFi interface on using the WiFi button, I have no problems at all when shutting down. But when turning it off and then shutting down Windows, it hangs. This is also the case even when cycling the WiFi button on/off/on. So my conclusion this far is that it may have something to do with ACPI or something else related to Windows. I'm a frequent Linux user as well and have no problem regarding this issue.

I will contact the HP support regarding this matter.

 

New BIOS Releases available F.28

Someone if used F.28 to confirm that everything is OK with Turbobost pls.
:thumbsup:

 

Sadly, F.28 made no difference. The laptop still cannot power cycle on its own and requires 5-second press by hand.

Thanks for the heads up about F.28 though!

 

This is a little different from my experience...
My out-of-box testing was before booting Windows--never let the boot process start, but booted from CD-ROM to run some disk-image software. What was weird about my 8560w is that holding the power button down for 30 seconds did NOT power off at all. It only powered off when I clicked normally on the power button (actually clicked twice); then the power went off.

So this was a NON-Windows issue in my case. I will boot Windows and try the same test on this fresh machine. I have high hopes for this machine, purchased online from the "Fresh Egg" store, or " Nuevo Huevo", if you will.

In any case, before you do any serious reconfig of Windows, try to run a full backup in case you lose all your disk through some Windows glitch.

__Will

 

What happens when you do a simple short press of the power switch? Does it show any change, or does it make no effort to power off? I'm curious why you have to hold the power switch down for 5 seconds--I realize that is the standard way to PowerOff a system that has hung--because that 5 seconds PowerOff doesn't actually work on my new 8560w.

__Will

 

The power button can be configured to do other things or even do nothing, maybe that is it.

There are 2 places to check:

1) After you hit START in windows on the right inside the popup, what does it say before the little arrow that expands to switch user/log off/lock, etc. I have mine configured to default to sleep.

If you use that menu to "Shut down" does that work?

If you want shutdown , right click the start button, properties, and in start menu tab make sure "Power button action" is set to Shut down.

2) Check your power settings to see what is configured. I found this pretty good walkthrough:
Enable or Disable Power Button in the Keyboard on Windows | Jcyberinux

Michael

 

Just got my refurb 8560w on Monday, popped in 16gb of RAM and an SSD and started a clean install today. Liking this system thus far, but had a couple of questions:

1.) System fails to resume from hibernate - powers down successfully, but upon powering back up it gets about half way through the restore and then restarts and prompts to either attempt to restore from hibernation file again or delete and boot as normal.

2.) What are the recommended video drivers to use? I'm using the ones from the HP driver site at the moment, but on a whim I tried the ATI auto-detect feature and that suggested the Radeon HD 67** drivers. Can you get improved game performance from using the Radeon drivers?

Just curious, I'd much rather get hibernation working than eek out a few FPS on what few games I do have time to play these days. Any other suggestions for a new 8560w owner? I'm running a fairly barebones installation at the moment, is there any guides available that list the importance of the various HP-supplied bloatware? Thanks a bunch!

 

1. Did you update to the latest BIOS? Such problems can sometimes be BIOS related.

2. I assume you have an M5950 GPU, you can get the drivers here: AMD FirePro I can't comment on the standard Radeon drivers since I don't use them. However you can try them and see if they work.

3. I try to keep the HP bloat as low as possible (Hotkey support, 3D drive guard which you don't need since you have an SSD, + all the drivers).

 

Someone which use last version of BIOS F.28 to conform that everything it’s OK with Turbobost PLS, because with some of BIOS update versions he doesn’t work.10x in advance. :thumbsup:

 

Tell me how and i'll happily do it.

 

Turbo worked fine with all versions for me. (i5-2540m)

A lot of people here don't really understand how it works, if you have a dual core CPU and you load both cores you won't see the maximum turbo frequency because that is only when you are using 1 core.
If the CPU reaches high temperatures it starts throttling down (mine usually drops from 3,1 to 2,9).
Same applies to quad core i7 CPU's, the maximum turbo frequency specified is for single core usage not all the cores. The more cores that are in use the lower the frequency since the CPU needs to stay within it's specified TDP.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us...ology/turbo-boost/turbo-boost-technology.html

Also, if you have your fan set to be off you can loose turbo, the cooling must have active cooling policy in windows power settings (and also in BIOS).

 

Thanks for fast answer Repman
I’m with - I7-2670QM and AMD M5950GPU, and when I buy my 8560w the BIOS ver. was F.03. and TB work fine reaching the 3099MHz for short period an after 2.9 like yours.
After update with F.22 and F.25 it has never cross 2200MHz.Not touch any settings of fan CPU etc.
Now with F.26 everything is the same like in the beginning .So I don’t want to have the same issue.
And actually I see the turbo frequency when he load all 4 cores running on 3099MHz.

 

It could be that only the quad core i7 were affected, I can't try anything since I only have i5's in all of my machines.

Mine runs at 3.1GHz on both cores, but when running single core load it hits 3.3GHz. But since 3.1GHz is maximum for your CPU it has no problems staying in the 45W TDP range.
However if you had a quad core with a turbo of 3.4 or around 3.6GHz it would probably work at around 3.1GHz with all cores and hit the maximum turbo with less cores.

I didn't check but it's maybe possible to downgrade from F.28 to F.26 if the turbo isn't working...however if you can't downgrade then you have to decide for yourself if you will take the risk of loosing turbo.

 

Hi all,

I'm new on this forum. Just went to share my experience on this PC.
I recently went for the new Corsair GTX 240Gb and it flies compared to the stock Samsung 240Gb (according to the benchmark). Find below two Crystal Mark print screens of each:

The Samsung:


The Corsair:


On an end user perspective, I'm not sure I really make the difference...

 

Not sure what Samsung you are talking about, but here is my Samsung 830 running the same test on my 8560W. And maybe could get slightly better with a clean boot, this was running all my normal apps in the background.

 

Hi,

It was the PM810 256 GB (MZ7PA256HMDR-010). I didn't know the Hp 8560w could receive the 830. That is a 6Gb/s, my 810 was 3Gb/s. The Corsair is good at writing and that Samsung 830 is one of the best at reading.

I need to check if there's a firmware update for the Corsair though. Since the controller if of a new type, it might be the case.

Cheers

 

Hi again,

I wanted to share with you a little adventure that happened to me, in case it would help someone else.

I had several times to suffer the PC going to sleep on its own, without any reason. After attempts and researchs I discovered that without the keyboard in place it was ok. I suspected then a cable not connected correctly, so I remove and reconnected all of them (2 for the keyboard and 5 for the top cover).

The PC was running fine after that, and one day, while I was testing a program to overclock the Quadro, it happened again. So I tried again my trick, to disconnect-reconnect everything. To be honest I was wondering if there wasn't something worse than that, and if the first time it wasn't just luck that it worked again.

The ZIF connectors in this PC are really cheap. I don't have a recent other pro laptop to compare with, but I remember my old DELL had much better connectors. Anyway, trying to remove the power button ZIF connector, all the connector went out, not just only the part to secure the cable. That was the beginning of a nightmare.

Here are some pictures to illustrate. The PC opened first. I located the connector with the red arrow:



Closer view:



And of course, when I tried to put this connector back in place, I broke the left pin, the one shown by the arrow here:



I removed it (no way I can solder something that little) and tried my chance by reconnecting everything.
This is to show you how little it is:



After having reconnected everything, the PC went alive again. In fact that little thing is powering the LED light of the power button only, the rest works fine, I was lucky!

Wait a minute, lucky yes, but the screen was black (only external screen was working) and keyboard+touchpad were not effective. I thought I screwed up something when reassembling the PC, or that my overclock test killed something else. And then I had the idea to verify the cable itself. I found this (it is the cable that is used for the power button):



The cable itself was kind of dead. As I had to change my (broken) cover recently, I took the cable and button from the old one, and replaced the cable. Everything was back to normal. Me happy

The cover I bought on ebay to replace mine was a used one. I suspect the owner had the problem I described above and decided to sell his computer in several parts rather than searching for the real issue. It was not that bad, as you can see but kind of complicated to identify the root cause.

Cheers

 

Nice work, and thanks for sharing this. I haven't had any problems like you have but if I do I'll remember this

The factory these laptops are produced in here in China is just down the road from me a ways, and they are having (and have had in the past) serious labor issues. Lots of turnover, lots of unpaid overtime, lots of management problems, so I am not surprised that these laptops are falling apart despite being supposed Elitebooks... HP would be wise to reexamine their CSR policy.

As far as actual hardware issues, unit construction QC and DOA rates, Dell is well ahead of HP in their top end models despite being produced at the same factories. Dell doesn't sell as many Precisions as HP sells Elitebooks so the workers are under less pressure.

Also, as an off-topic FYI, if you're panning on buying an iPhone 5 anytime soon, I would wait a couple of weeks as the main FC factory producing them is having major problems with worker dissatisfaction.

 

Read this, solved my problem.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...55065-hp-elitebook-8560p-wont-shutdown-2.html

 

I just picked up one of these bad girls as a factory second (minor scratching on the lid) for just under $900 AUD delivered. I'm very impressed so far - 16GB RAM, I7 quad and Quadro2000m flies. It has the non-DC display, but it is pretty solid for a TN - and is 1920x1080 at least.

I wouldn't mind picking up a dock for it. I was given one - a KP080AA but it seems that the interface has changed since then (oh well, I got a spare power brick out of it at least). I've found lots of cheap docks on ebay, and the compatibility information seems fairly limited. Is there an easy way to tell if they have the current interface or the old one?

 

That's a 2008 docking station, you need the 2011 or 2012 model, check the HP site for the proper partnumber. (HP site is a mess or I would have done that for you.)

 

HP 2012 230W Docking Station A7E34UT#ABA USD $175
HP 2012 230W Advanced Docking Station A7E38UT#ABA SmartBuy USD $219 or A7E38AA#ABA or A7E34AA#ABA

Here is the URL for the US options:
http://h30094.www3.hp.com/af_searchresults.asp?type=0&pricegroupid=SMB-BOOK1&catid=63&subcatid=3163&prodid=1042398&hidden=0&pagemode=af&prodtype=&pagesize=20&rank_dir=&rank_on=sasssearch&isSortBy=&price_min=-1&price_max=2147483647&search_id=214&dept_id=&filter_keyword=&mfg_namelisting=&resetSearch=0&storeList=-1%2C12%2C22%2C10%2C27%2C16%2C4%2C1%2C5%2C23%2C6%2C25%2C17%2C9%2C11%2C3&storelistPre=-1%2C12%2C22%2C10%2C27%2C16%2C4%2C1%2C5%2C23%2C6%2C25%2C17%2C9%2C11%2C3&ScrollTop=0&bn_mfg_id=&bn_mfg_name=&user_search_id=&user_dept_id=&product_features=&EtilizeProductIDs=&brand=&cvp_first=1&cvp_total=5

 

Ditto for me. Thank you thank you thank you!

 

Hello all,

Has anyone updated the processor to the unusual 2840QM? This one has never been released but we can still find some samples (QS).

Thank you

 

Ok, since there was plenty of positive feedback on my question about the 2840QM, I decided to go for it

The CPU has not been recognized by Windows 8 (it was still boosting at 2.9Ghz max, like the previous 2630QM), so I had to manually delete the drivers for each of the 8 processors in System Device, then reboot, and it was ok.

Windows Performance shows a progress from 7.5 to 7.7 which is a miserable 3% increase... and Pass Mark test shows a progress from 5592 to 7641 which is an impressive 37% increase in performance...

Also, HWMonitor showed a pick of power consumption of 55W, to be compared to a pick of 50W for my previous 2630QM:



See the difference with the 2630QM:



I know there's been some discussion about the TDP of this CPU. I'm afraid I still can't reply as to what is the theoretical max TDP of this CPU (let me guess 50W)

BTW, you see that HWMonitor is confused about the model, thinking it's a 2760QM.

On his side, windows sees the correct name:



ThrottleStop confirms it is not an Extreme Processor since the typical options for Extreme CPUs are not here:



And CPU-Z shows the processor as an ES one (it is in fact a QS) but no surprise here. It also shows two models for the CPU, 2760QM and 2840QM. Finally, CPU-Z shows the CPU as a 45W one...:



Cheers

 

New AMD FirePro driver is up.

Get it here: AMD FirePro

 

Too bad there isn't a new Win8 driver up.

 

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this

How much was the new proc?

 

Hi, I paid 300$ shipping included.
Still working great after couple of weeks now.
Cheers.

 

Was the price worth the speed bump? Is it an actual noticeable speed bump for that matter?

 

To be honest, yes it is, but that all depends of what you do with the PC.
Cheers.

 

I only ask because I am currently working mainland China and those processors here are pretty expensive. 350 USD before shipping, and that's the second-hand price.

99% of my work is designing print graphics in Illustrator CS6, so any speed bump would help

I wonder if the Quadro 2000 will work in these?

 

It also depends on which processor you have now. I have a 2670QM, so going to an 2840QM, I would only see about 1/2 the improvement (roughly) as someone going from a 2630QM (the +2MB cache making the difference in most cases, not the frequency).

Once you start talking upgrading both CPU and video, well, you might as well just spend a few more bucks and get an 8570w.

Michael

 

I have the 2630 too, and I kind of need to keep the 15" model for relative portability.

 

Hi guys!!!

in this moment im writhing with my new backlit keyboard (German)!! For install i watched this tutorial: HP Customer Self Repair Services Media Library
The problem is that the keys do not light up!! I tried push Fn+F12... Fn+barspace....but nothing!
I tried install the software "HP Backlit Keyboard Controls" but nothing....
Does anyone know how to turn on the backlit keyboard?? An option in the BIOS??

Sorry for my bed English!