*HP EliteBook 8760w Owners Lounge*

Just for security reasons. If your system runs fine on F.62, don‘t update.
There is no way back (but F.66 will run fine, so no worries)

 

Hi mirage_bg.

You were right about the 1333 MHz mobo LIMIT on 8760w - well that's a pity.

Anyway...

I have just installed GTX 980M in my 8760w. All I had to do is to reorganize termopads and add 2 lines in the .inf file of recent NVidia Display Drivers. After this it works 100% on Windows 7 64bit.

Yet there is still a cooling problem during Ultra Gaming - 980M's TDP claims to be 122W - and in my case - even after using a special Liquid METAL thermal paste (highest heat transfer) - the GPU still gains over 80 (up to 87) degrees Celsius - is it way too much ??

Could you share with your temperature reading ?? - please share any tips to cool it down if you have.

I also have an idea to install third heatpipe onto the existing heatsink - I attached the drawing (just photoshopped picture - not actual solution). What do you think about this ?? Is it a crazy idea OR is it too crazy idea ???

 

87C is way too much for prolonged use - I don’t recommend it to leave it this way.
Another problem with 980M is its TDP where it exceeds the HP 8760w’s limit by 20-25W (8760W has 100w TDP limit) and starts to power throttle. What is the ASIC quality of your gpu in gpu-z? You could try undervolting it through modify the vbios.
When I had 980M in my previous 8760W the temps were 79-80C max after hours of heavy gaming.
I was using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on both cpu and gpu. Also you need the right thickness of the thermal pads (I used and am using on my current 8770W Arctic thermal pads)- 1.5mm is what you need on the ram, vrm and mosfets. I lowered the temps even more by adding thermal pads on the underside of the graphic card where the ram modules are located, so the heat transfers on the mobo.
I suggest to try Notebook Fan Control and put the fan to 100% while gaming.
Now my Quadro M5000M is other story - it has way better die’s quality (77.3% ASIC vs 69.4% 980m had), O/C like crazy- 1185Mhz at stock voltage (0.987V), doesn’t pass beyond 93-95W, doesn’t power throttle at all because of this (stays constantly at 1185Mhz) and the temps are insane - with exact same cooling solution it stays at 65-66C after hours of gaming.

You could try to put some thermal pads on the underside of the gpu and try with different thermal paste. Seems like the one you are using now is not very effective or you have uneven heatsink.

Adding a third heat-pipe is an extreme solution imho and should be carefully verified if it isn’t going to rise the keyboard.

 

I did not know anything about ASIC - it is well hidden in GPU-Z - for my 980M ASIC factor is 69,2%.
I did checked the thermalpads - those are actually quite thick 1,5-2 mm. I did intentionally mentioned that I used liquid metal thermal paste - it is WAY BETTER thermal conductive THAN ANY PASTE. The heatsink installs 1-way only because of screws. So the conclusion is..... How did YOUR 980M keep 80 degrees maximum ??

Now I do use Witcher 3 and Furmark to make the most heat...but almost all other games are below 80 degrees.

Actually I was aware that M5000M and 980M are very similiar cards but still we did not mentioned any FPS results I presume that the M5000M is simply undervolted as you mentioned. What do you mean by undervolting by vbios ?? Do you mean - uploading vbios from M5000M into 980M ??

 

No, M5000M is not undervolted, it operates natively at 0.987 because of the very good ASIC quality value. The Maxwell GPUs have specific voltage range for different frequencies of the core and as higher ASIC quality is as the GPU can operate at lower voltage.
As I said - with uneven heatsink/GPU liquid metal will perform worse than the best non liquid solutions like Gelid GC Extreme or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. In your case I am pretty sure the problem with the temps comes from uneven heatsink or wrongly chosen thermal pads thickness. Unfortunately some heatsinks comes slightly twisted right from the factory. You should check if your is ok when you put it on the gpu with normal thermal grease and remove it after that to see on the copper part how the gpu meets the heatsink. If there are places with unevenly spreaded thermal grease, this means uneven heatsink and you should avoid liquid metal based cooling solutions.
By undervolting I mean editing your current vbios with maxwell vbios editor. Don’t flash vbios from M5000M on your 980M by any circumstances - doing so will brick your gpu.
If you are not familiar with vbios editing I don’t suggest doing it as it involves a lot of risk of damaging your card.
In general nvidia chooses to use better die quality for their Quadro line because the stability and reliability is most important there. I would never go back to GeForce, moreover their performance is exactly the same and not it used to be with previous Quadro generations.
For most heat try FarCry 5 with v-sync off.

Here you are some comparision shots of M5000M and GTX 980M, both on 8770W:


GTX 980M:


M5000M:


Here you can see the FPS difference between both.

 

I truly doubt that I could mount my 980M on 8760W any different way that it is possible. It is identical card in identical slot of a identical laptop with 100W heatsink screwed the same same way. In fact those 4 screws regulate the mount force and it is very solid in my case. Although the under-thermalpads might raise up your GPU closer to the copper sink but still the heat under GPU was not actually transfered anyway so it stays hot under as well. The liquid metal paste (Thermal Grizzly) actually worked only for 1 month (I had 77 C instead 87 - but only in the very beginning) , any other paste also gave 87-89 C.

I think I will try with Maxwell vbios Editor and some copper additions - heatpipe and maybe a large copper backplate under the GPU.

Fan Control ?? Fan is always high because I use 1-pipe CPU heatsink (instead of 2-pipe). I may be mistaken but in 8760W two heat sources are spread outside in two directions - so the CPU heat does not mix with GPU heat when the FAN is working - IMHO CPU heat does not interfere much with GPU heat in separate radiators.

In general - more copper inside the laptop case - the more heat would be spread within the Copper itself - leaving whole notebook hot.
Thus the conclusion is.....then PURE COPPER RADIATORS Anyone disagree ??

If there only a Faster Fan existed.... standard is 5V 2.5W anyone knows stronger Fan for 8760W ??

 

It’s true but remember it is only one fan for both. This can generate a heat on mobo which transfers over the cpu and gpu.
I don’t mean that you mount the heatsink wrongly. I mean that in some cases the copper part of the heatsink is twisted by 0.02-3-4mm and no matter how you fix the heatsink, it still doesn’t meet the gpu entirely. I had this problem with 980m (I think the card itself was also a bit uneven when you look it from aside.)

The fan from 8770W is faster. It spins at 4165rpm, whereas the one from 8760w reaches 3860rpm. This lower the temps by another 2-3C.

 

Yet it still seems to be the same FAN model for 8760W and 8770w except mobo (BIOS ? ) just adds some rounds in 8770W...

as for the heatsink mount - I disagree - The copper heatsink area is much bigger than the DIE - so you can't miss it

 

No, it’s different, you need this one:





About the heatsink unevenness you simply don’t understand me. One side of the copper comes lower than the other side comparing to the magnesium part of it.
It could be the copper part is soldered slanted in the factory, thats all. You can’t spot this with naked eye.

 

Is that the 8770w fan? Does it cool signficantly better? Ive been seeing my thermals get a little higher than normal with my 780m and 2920xm and was trying to think of creative ways to get them down. I was going to drill out the air inlet holes a little larger on the bottom and possibly add copper plates to the heatsink assembly if I could.

I ran into the issue of my thermal pads being too thick on the memory and VRMS and it would never mount the heatsink evenly. It took lots of trial and error to get a thermal pad arrangement that worked for me.

 

Yes, this one performs better as it spins around 4165rpm at 100% which is around 300rpm more than the one 8760W has.
I don’t think adding a copper plates/sinks on the heatsink is a smart move as it will most probably hold the heat inside even more once the heatsink and the copper plates head up.
I do actually like the idea of this guy, several posts ago, who was thinking of adding third heat-pipe. If there is space enough under the keyboard it would be great to have three heat-pipes for CPU and GPU.

 

I don't remember where I saw it, (maybe on the 8740w thread?) but I remember someone had added a bunch of copper plates (I think he used RAM heatsinks cut to size) to the top of the cpu cooler all along the heat pipes and attached them using two part thermal adhesive. I was thinking of doing something similar with lots of copper cooling pads like the ones sold as cpu cooler spacers. Basically build a finned heat sink by stacking these very thin copper pads on top of each other and offsetting them. I also remember someone had added a fan to the optical upgrade bay area, but that wouldn't be an option for me now that I am using a pair of SSDs in RAID 0 and still want a spinner running in the upgrade bay.

 

Here I checked my temps under hour and a half of Crysis 3:



The max of the CPU was 86C, for the GPU - 68C.

 

I was also thinking of this sort of solutions, but now my temps are really fine with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I don’t see a point of doing this.

 

I bought the adhesive and thermal pads to play with (cant beat a hundred for a few bucks lol) last year for my 8740w but my temps were okay enough for me so I decided not to bother and then swapped the card into the 8760w. Interestingly enough when I pulled apart my 8760w I found no thermal paste or pads at all on the CPU or GPU like it had been wiped clean with alcohol. I was getting CPU spikes to 200F yet the laptop was completely cool to the touch.

Can anyone recommend a good cooling pad to buy for this thing? I usually play games sitting on my bed with the laptop either propped up (to make sure the vent holes are exposed) or on my leg with the fan inlet sort of hanging between my legs and it's getting to a point where the laptop itself is very heat soaked and I want to try to cool it down quicker.

 

Completely unrelated question... I know that with a dock I can drive 3 monitors with the laptop closed. If I am using the HP Advanced Dock (the one with the optical drive bay), can I drive a 4th monitor through one of the docking station ports? Or would I need to use one of the ports on the laptop itself? Or would it not work at all? I want to do this with the laptop closed, meaning the built in display will be disabled.

 

Cooling pads are pretty useless for this model. The bottom cover is solid magnesium without much of a wide holes and the air circulation is pretty limited when it comes to cooling pads - 5V fan is simply not enough to let the air get inside the body and to cool the components to degree, worthing the money. In my case I’ve tried several cooling pads and all delivered zero improvement.
If you buy any, you should use it with 12V fans connected directly into the socket via voltage-adjustable adaptor.

 

Actually I havent tried the third heatpipe yet but looks like the space is slim but its exact. Besides some thermal tape might use on top of the cover so the plastic wont melt in direct touch with the heatpipe.

I also found another idea. Except it needs to be manufactured from a hand design in China (everything is possible on Aliexpress -
the radiator made from pure copper. Imagine such 100% copper 1:1 copy radiator - would this decrease the notebook's temp ?? What do you think ??

 

For sure!

 

Would this particular 8770W fit into 8760W ?? What do you think ??

 

Yes, I’ve tried it- it fits like a glove

 

Regarding the 8770W fan that might fit into 8760W, I think this one is on Aliexpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...pm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.40f03c009vNnu3


And ... Just for anyone willing to make a precise hand measures of the radiator and send it for example to a seller that allows custom designs, like this one:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bJrAn2nn

I would do such drawing as soon as I dissasemble my 8760w...

 

Just for the interest - How can I read fan's high RPMs by software ??

 

HWInfo64

 

I measured peak RPM on my 8760w...yep this may make a difference,

 

Yes, big one. 2-3 degrees is an improvement.

 

Don't hate me for I would like to SUMMARIZE a OVERHEATING 8760w 8770w with GTX 980M post
as we mentioned here couple of ideas to check/verify/fullfill and everyone willing to experiment on its own.

HOW TO DECREASE TEMPERATURE OF MY 8760W 8770W ELITEBOOK OVERHEATING from my POV:
- proper heatsink - there are 1-heatpipe and 2-heatpipe heatsinks available for GPU and for CPU separately
- proper thermopad layout and thickness - too thick pads make die distant to the sink
- proper heatsink screw mount - a slanted sink unequally screwed absorbs heat worse
- thermal connection - a good paste / liquid metal (demands caution and securing space around the die) / graphite pads (heard about on Youtube)
- crazy idea #1: third (or even fourth) heat-pipe on-top of the two - best way to dismount them from the identical heat-sink as it is the same shape; may demand some grinding to save 0.X milimeters and some thermal tape isolation from the plastic cover and yet I have no idea how to solder these; over the CPU there is no space for such idea
- a specific FAN model with symbols: "688762-001" and "FB6W" - it may have an RPM boost (some say even up to 300 RPMs more)
- crazy idea #2: 100% copper radiators - absolutely crazy idea but quite real - you need to make/have measurements of your radiator and search Aliexpress for "copper fin radiators" and see seller allow custom design - a good CALIPER may also be handy

For the sake of handmaking, experimenting, customizing
All of the above ways may save numerous Celsius degrees - how many ??

 

Good job!

 

Thank you for your clues !

 

At least in my case the issue seems to be more with CPU temps, not GPU. Also, beyond that, IMO I don't think the problem is the transfer of heat from the die out to the heatsink (via heat pipes), I think it is more that the heatsinks cannot dissipate heat through the air vents fast enough causing the whole notebook to heat soak eventually creating a situation where the whole thing is hot and cooling efficiency is dramatically decreased due to the lower Delta T.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

I would say at least 10-12C, can be even more.
I am really interested in three-heatpipe solution together with full-copper heatsink.
This alone could drop a good 5-7 degrees.

 

XM CPUs are dirty b....s, very hard to cooling off.
My previous 2920XM reached 92-93C, next one-2960XM was up to 97-98C.
I refused to buy XM for my current 8770W when I upgraded it from my previous 8760W precisely for that reason.
Decided to stay with the best QM for 3rd gen.- 3840QM and didn’t regret - the temps dropped off by 12-13C. Now it reaches 84-85C at max.
Thats why I recommend 2860QM for 8760W, because the native cooling solution of the last is simply not enough for XM CPU. Besides our systems don't support O/C and XM CPU is pretty useless.

 

You found my interest as well - Let's make it FOUR heat-pipes

 

i7-2860QM has almost the same parameters and it's 10 Watts colder. If you don't use overclock - it may be a way to downgrade :|

I still use 2620QM as it is 35W only so my GPU can make more heat, slowly I learn to move CPU jobs to GPU (hardware video encoding using CUDA).

 

I think an all copper heatsink would be a great place to start. After that the question is what is our limiting factor, the heat transferrability of the heat pipes or still the surface area of the heatsink?

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Can be both to some degree, our system is crying for second fan, but...

 

2860QM is actually better than 2920XM at stock speeds (O/C is not possible on 8760/8770W in anyway)-3.6GHz vs 3.5GHz turbo boost and 2.5GHz base for both. Thats why in my opinion 2920XM is just wasting of money and it is a heat generator, if not used in a system which supports O/C.

 

Forgive me the joke, but the $3 Dollar winning solution is here

 

How have I missed that - this is going to solve all of our heat related problems ))

 

Well that's interesting... Wish I would have known that when I bought my 2920xm. I paid $60 for it on eBay and a quick search puts the 2860qm around $80+ today. I wonder if I could tweak my CPU with throttlestop to perform the same as stock but within the thermal envelope of a 2860qm.

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The pure copper heatsink is not a good solution here. The copper stores much more heat and if not vented - it would keep it for long time - making whole notebook a pancake pan. The copper should be actively vented, and the heat should be transfered away from the hottest spot into the vented area. That is why I suggested copper radiators.

 

AFAIK Throttlestop is pretty restricted for our Workstations. No matter what you do, it can't lower your CPU's TDP and 55W in your case (peaking to 64W) is simply way too much for this cooling solution. It would make a lot of sense if you sell your XM and get 2860QM. XM can be sold for 85+$ and you are fine to go with 2860.

 

Sorry I think we got terms crossed there. When I said heatsink I was referring to the "radiators" that dissipate heat from the pipes to the air.

The part that touches the die and connects to the heat pipes I would have called a thermal pad or something

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Guys, don't block the vent-holes on the underside when using the laptop. Rise its backside with something if using it on table. It makes huge difference.
I am using it this way:

 

No, the heatsink collects heat, radiators - emit the heat outside using it's increased surface. If you don't use your graphics too much then you may try a economic solution first:



Instead of the orange arrows - get a measured thin heatpipes from a store (flat 2 or 3 mm high) to transfer some CPU heat to the GPU radiator. Dont mind it goes over the fan - the fan sucks air from below and dont touch the fan's fins. The position of the arrows is almost exact but the pipes should touch over even be soldered to the CPU heatsink's crest.

A disadvantage for that is you would need to dismount ALL heat system and all screws everytime to lift up if you need to change anything.

 

Now that is a good idea to start with. I'd need to do some load testing and then check it with my IR thermometer to see where the hot spots actually lie because the difference in temp between the CPU heatsink and whatever I end up connecting it to is what will determine the rate of heat transfer. I also wonder which radiator is getting hotter in my case, the GPU or CPU.

What's interesting is in the past I've played a very CPU intensive game that's light on the GPU (Kerbal Space Program) and lately I've been playing more modern graphics heavy games and it's been getting significantly hotter so I guess now my issue could be the combined TDP of the CPU pinned and GPU actually getting used to it's capacity.

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One could determine how much space we have to work with between the heatsinks/heat pipes and the lower layer of the keyboard with some modeling clay pretty easily

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The heat-pipes should be modified as the CPU heat-sink comes lower than the fan. Otherwise great idea.

 

How are you using RAID 0 without TRIM support? (8760W doesn't support TRIM on SSDs in RAID). Isn't your SSDs losing performance this way?

 

I literally just set it up this past weekend. I was not aware that it didn't support TRIM... I don't think it's an issue for the short term but long term that might come back to bite me. With Windows 10 fresh installed I got 995 mb/s on sequential reads and writes weren't far off that either.

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