*HP EliteBook 8760w Owners Lounge*

You can just unscrew the screw and put some thin plastic piece on the upper side to make it bend a bit down. You have to remove the screen bracket first.

This is DC assembly:

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/genuine-hp-elitebook-8770w-whole-lcd-1791563038

 

Ouch, definitely seems more involved than I want to get at this point. I don't want to mess anything up as it works fine as is it.

Thank you for the link on the DC assembly--seems decently easy to replace but still more than I want to do for sure.

 

Yeah, and it is definitely not a cheap move too... 500€ is the minimum you can get it and it’s damn hard to find..

 

W7170M?

 

Yeah, that's multiple times more than I paid for the whole 8760w!

 

Ehrm, yes please! Want to try on a 8740W to be honest.

Only Dell VBIOS I can find online.

 

That would be really solid upgrade too! The power usage is less and the performance is literally double:
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/quadro-m1000m.c2739
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/quadro-3000m.c1429

 

Yes exactly my thoughts.. But the original card is a Firepro M7820 (with half of memory overheated/broken which results in texture failures)

 

Definitely would be an improvement for you.

 

wonder what the situation on the X bracket will be though...

This dude here is reporting some problem; https://386sx.tistory.com/2 .. M1000M is thicker. Its on a 8560W (= 15 inch), not 8740W. No idea how spacious the MXM slots are on the 87x0W models, never paid attention to it.

Or actually.. There was the same problem with the other card swaps I made in the past. Cannot exactly remember anymore what the problem was but I simply used the X bracket from the old card. No idea why he didnt do that.

 

Probably because the card didn't come with it. Otherwise that would have been the best as those small metal filings would have been a strong bit of concern for me.

 

It seems that we had same situation with Zbook G2 and Dell M5000M before I flash HP vBIOS. At that time, my vBIOS version was 84.04.6D.00.08(DELL). Similarly, if CSM is disabled, the internal display can't work at boot but the external display works well. With CSM enable, the internal display suddenly becomes black once the driver is installed or loaded. I had also tried several vendors' inf files, but the results were same. At the same time, the external display can work normally and I found that M5000M can't detect the internal display in NVIDIA Control Panel. The differences are that you use DreamColor but I use a 4K panel(B156ZAN04.1, AUO) with an official display cable(DC02C00A100, 40pin at panel side, 4Lane eDP), and your vBIOS version is newer than mine based on vBIOS build date. Finally, I found an HP M5000M vBIOS from ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-k4100m-k5100m-overclocking-vbios-mod.784164/) whose version is 84.04.8D.00.03. Since I flashed this vBIOS, the internal display will not blank any more after the driver is installed or loaded.

Then, I could normally use M5000M with this panel, though it remains problems like external display can't work at boot until the driver is loaded and the internal display flicker after it resets sometimes(such as closing lid, modifying resolution, etc. Manual configuration in NVIDIA Control Panel can solve it). I found the vBIOS you uploaded and this discussion while I was seeking a better vBIOS for M5000M, but it does not suit our problem according to your description. I hope my experience could be useful to you if you still keep your Zbook 17 G2 and are willing to try further.

 

Does anyone know where to find the latest Windows 10 drivers for USB, Nvidia Quadro for Dreamcolour panels, chipset etc for an 8760W Elitebook with a Dreamcolour panel? On HP's website you can only find some ancient Windows 7 drivers which are kind of old.

Thanks

 

HP 8760W doesn’t support Win 10 officially.
You have to use the drivers for Win 8.1

 

Hello everyone. I have an issue. I have an 8770W on Windows 7 with a 3920XM(3.5-3.6 Ghz) and a GTX 980M(I have the Clevo model). the Nvidia driver is 361.43(I modded the NVCVI.ini) and I have a 230 watt adapter. the bios is on UEFI with CSM. GPU-Z shows 0 as the default boost clock but 1127 for the current boost GPU clock. when running any GPU intensive task the the laptop shuts down instantly and restarts. looking into the Event Viewer shows no errors on Windows part besides notification of immediate shut down which implies hardware/power issue but not sure(the clock speed is about over 1000Mhz when the shut down happens).

However, when running Furmark, no shutdown occurs, but the core clock speed is reduced to about 700,perfcap in GPU-Z reason is "PWR". im leaning towards a power issue but need a second opinion if its anything else and what I can do to fix it(GPU clock speed is unnaturally high, GPU/CPU combo draws too much power etc) I appreciate all insightful replies

 

GPU’s VRMs overheating or faulty power brick.
Are you sure you have used the right the right thermal pad’s thickness?

 

The thermal pads I used are what came from a Clevo 780M(light blue). I have 2 power bricks, one is a HSTNN-LA12, bought brand new about 4-5 months ago, the other is a 200 Watt smart adapter that came with the 8770W, both shut off. The heatsink is from the K5000M unmodified. The Clevo 980M has one more VRM than the 780M and K5000M, its a bit of a tight fit in the K5000M heatsink but it fits, Your saying that is causing this issue?

 

Yes, such a restarts are pointing on VRMs overheating...

 

Im assuming there is no way to check the VRM temps on this setup. The only thing I can do is modify the heatsink by grinding away some metal where the two VRMS sit on the top left side of the card. there may be too little space since it was designed for one VRM anyways even though they still fit barely, or maybe its not sitting entirely flush(though the GPU die is in contact with the copper core.) the heatpad I also used for the far left VRM is about 20-30 percent smaller, leaving the outer perimeter exposed.

 

Don’t do this.
980m fits perfectly with our heatsinks.
I had it and I know there is absolutely no need of any grinding.
Just make sure you are using soft 1.5mm thermal pads for the inductors and 1.0mm for the mosfets. VRams are 1.5mm too.
I would try another 200/230W power brick first.
As I saw you’ve tried two different power bricks already and the problem seems to be elsewhere, I would also consider a faulty GPU...

 

double post

 

Faulty GPU??? you scaring me. I just bought it new from a chinese seller. I have a 8740 with a K5000M in it and both power bricks work fine on that(tested with Prime95/Furmark) I also have a 780M as well but right now there is an issue with it(its clock speed wont go past 192-212Mhz, which is whats read from GPU-Z/Afterburner with any driver under 361, Linux terminal display settings show a clock speed of 33Mhz with 64 bit bus width..?? It works aside from that and can be bios modded and overclocked still) and I cant use it as intended. I can cut a bigger heatpad with the far left VRM and/or put the 980M in the 8740 and see how it runs.

What I have done right now is reduce the clock speed by 135Mhz and it seems to run fine as far as what ive tested(running benchmarks). Now from what I know, the VRM temps are about 15-20 degrees hotter than the GPU core if im not mistaken. sometimes when I start a benchmark the PC reboots way before the GPU even heats up, but now at about 987Mhz, I get up to 77-80C and no shut down occurs,so does that still point to an overheating VRM?

 

Alright.. It took some time to find the right card for a nice price on Ebay but I made it! In the end I found a M2000M instead of the originally planned M1000M which performs +25% better and has 4 Gb instead of 2 Gb. Produces 55 Watt instead of 40 Watt but the laptop can cope with this heat production.

As this is a 8760W thread and I am talking about a 8740W, I updated this thread

Enjoy the day and thanks for the motivations

 

I don’t want to scare you, but I would test the GPU in other system, just to be sure everything is working ok from its side.
Make a photo and send me here when you take the laptop apart, I would like to see the thermal pads arrangement and thickness altogether with gpu contact with the heatsink.

 

I just forgot the Heatsink I have for the 8740 is for the FX 2800 and it wont fit the 980M flush because there is space for only one Choke on the top left side of the heatsink when facing down, I would have to grind the dividing part away almost entirely(the part that makes contact with the small black rectangular part of the VRMs between the Chokes) so unless I get another heatsink OR install is anyways with uneven contact with the CHokes I cant do it. Here are some pictures for you of the 980M and with contact to the 8770w heatsink

the top MOSFETS and the RAM chips have heatpads too, just stuck on the heatsink. the heatpad strips for the top right MOSFET and middle right one extend past them a bit onto the part where no MOSFET is, just a solder point

 

Your thermal pads thickness is way too much!
Here is the pic I made for you to see how it should be:



You don’t need thermal pads for the capacitors, they don’t tend to get that hot:




Arctic pads worked the best when I had gtx 980m/quadro m5000m

 

Hi all I need some good advice.

In short: For a year I have been using 980M with my 8760W succesfully reaching 81C
but from a month
I cannot cool this card anymore - it reaches always 88 C and throttles down. Beside the thermal paste nothing could physically change.
I changed the paste though also replaced a fan as well as all heatsink. Tried different GPU heatsink screw combination.
I even mounted extra heatpipes on top.

Even though it always grow up to 88 C in Furmark burn-in test.

What could possibly happen ?? any ideas ? power issues ? Windows ? Drivers ? what else ??

 

dust In the vents perhaps?

 

Okay so the pads I have, are they 1mm or 1.5? They do seem pretty thick they might be 2mm is that why the vrms are overheating? Well the K5000M seems fine with it(It does throttle down bit by bit though when running benchmarks to a point IDK if that's normal) I can buy some .5mm ones still and see if that solved the issue.

 

Your current ones seem to be 2mm

 

Okay so I ran an OCCT power supply test on both the 8770w and the 8740w. dispite the 8740w GPU temp being about close to 90c and the 8770w GPU temp being about 80, the underside of the 8770 was MUCH HOTTER in the GPU area then the underside of the 8740w. Mind you the 8740w had like a black sheet where the GPU sits and the 8770w doesnt. it only has a very thick squishy thermal pad to hold the GPU up from the about an inch from the top side where the VRMS are(it was there when the K5000M was installed) AND allot of the screws holding the faceplate where the keyboard sits along with the keyboard have been out sometime due to changing out GPUs and some testing for stability. Im assuming the VRAM is overheating on the back since nothing is covering it transferring heat, what do you think?

 

I used thermal pads on the bottom side when I had gtx 980m and quadro m5000m.
You need 1.5mm thickness to transfer the heat from vrams to the motherboard (don’t worry, it won’t damage the mobo).

 

Okay I dont know what this black sheet is on the bottom GPU area of the 8740w, is that a graphite sheet? can I use something like that?

 

No, this is an insulation for safety - the protruded elements of the gpu not to touch something on the mobo. You can use scotch 33+ super or kapton tape

 

Okay well the laptop still shuts off im trying to find out where all of that heat is coming from on the back of the

I'm Running OCCT gpu test right now and as usual the underside is hot(cant sit it on your lap hot) The GPU core is at about 898Mhz, GPU-Z perfcap reason going from idle to pwr(sometimes sticking under I'dle for about a Several seconds) just under 80c and it hasn't shut down yet and it's been well beyond an hour and super hot, hotter than it was the last time it shut down while running a benchmark. Still pointing to VRMs?

 

Did you replace the thermal pads with Arctic 1.5mm?

 

Yes I did(well I used the thermal pads I have now, the ones that came with the 780M, those might be the 2mm ones) . It still shuts down. And now it appears the monitor is dead though I'm not sure it doesn't turn on at all. Maybe some blunt force from a family member damaged it(it sits safely on the edge of a large table, rubber feet keep it from slipping, closed when I'm not using it) IDK you would think if that was the case it would still turn on just be damaged but nope no back light or nothing, everything else works fine, using external monitor. It fell about maybe 2 feet from being dragged off the table by a child from being accidentally pulled from a keyboard wire while I was there but it was closed and landed on its front bottom(near the hard drives) so I don't know if that did it or while I was gone somebody hit it too hard while it was closed on the back of the lcd.

But main point is yes it is still shutting down instantly(when on 987Mhz+ or boost clocks under max load)

 

I set the boot to UEFI in bios and thought the UEFI options are pitifully limited, it works. My prblem is I need to temporarily set it back to Legacy and no matter what I do in the bios the machine refuses to honor and retain the legacy boot setting, as soon as I restart it's back in UEFI.........is the UEFI setting a one way trip in this bios?

 

and finally does the w7170m work in the 8670w?

 

I wouldn’t bet on it. Even if it works (which is not entirely sure as Sandy Bridge is very picky about GPU upgrades) it won’t control the fan automatically.
Better look for GTX 970/980m - there are good deals on feebay

 

I have a question. Do you think the bios version has any significance to this issue I'm having. My bios version is 68IAV Ver. F. 32 from 2012 and I've read that the way the bios controls power delivery as well as heat/fan curves effects the GPU and a bios update will correct some issues.

 

I would suggest to update it to the latest version.

 

Okay I updated the bios, still same initial issue. What I've found is when running any benchmark besides OCCT or Furmark, Looking through GPU-Z The gpu voltage fluctuates between .9710 and 1.0430 on any gpu load past 90%. Also the perfcap reason switches from idle to power showing red and greed stripe patterns on the diagram.(as far as I've studied from GPU-Z) When the laptop shuts down those things are present. Any load under 90% and everything is fine, no perfcap and voltage is stable at 1.0430

When running Furmark or OCCT the voltage and GPU clock drop immediately from 1038-1126Mhz/1.0430V to 885.9-923Mhz/.9006-.9370V while perfcap goes from pwr to idle. No shut down occurs but the gpu voltage does fluctuate between .9006-.9370 in the beginning and then stabilizes at. .9180-.9310 shortly after. No shut downs.

Is that normal? Is the voltage supposed to fluctuate at over 90% load adding a perfcap going from idle to pwr. And the default boost clock on the Graphics Card tab in GPU-Z still shows 0. Corrupt bios perhaps?

 

I am starting to think there is a faulty/dying mosfet on your card
This would explain the sudden shut downs on high voltage, when the load on the GPU is high.
Try it with another vbios, if the problem still persist after this, the card has faulty mosfet/s.

 

Well my 8760w lost all it's bios information and the two most commonly touted fixes don't work .............. Basically I can get an 8770w for the cost of of a new MB but gosh......I had this machine humming along perfectly .......damn

 

What happened?
You need new USB 3.0 board, new Audio board and new touch pad and fingerprint reader in order to get 8770W update fully working.

 

I powered on and was greeted by a programming mode 1 message. All previous bios information was gone (HP's do this on rare occasions, I've fixed one before) Normally the fix for this is to download an HP utility and add it to freedos boot disk, boot from that and manually add the values to your bios. However it seems mine has some foxcon motherboard the utility does not recognize...

 

I ordered an 8770w would this work in it? What else would I need? And would it work with the GTX 980m I'll be moving over....

 

No, this panel would not work alone without color board and cables for DreamColor (the cables are different from the ones for FullHD/HD+ normal TN screen)

 

well I knew that I would need extra stuff. I was just trying to find out *what* extra stuff so I could get some idea what it would cost