Found HP Approved Dual Band Wireless-N for dv7tqe

Thanks Ian for taking the time to organize all the info in the original post.

 

installed in dv7-6c95dx. works great. no problems 'cept i used the intel widi feature and want bluetooth. this is more of a media machine so i think im gonna switch it back for the widi feature till something else works.
f.12 bios

 

first adress in my p.m. gets the railink card.

 

thinking i better keep as a spare. (sorry Lefty).

 

I have a dv7tqe-6100 with F.1A BIOS... the $14 card from ebay does work in it. At first I have had some random disconnects but it seems stable now. The desktop tray icon for signal strength says that the same wifi signal is weaker from the same spot as opposed to the old card, but the speed seems to be fine. The range does seem to be a bit less than the intel card but I'm not sure... just a guess. I will be able to test on my dual band router tomorrow to see it it works on 5ghz.

 

I'm still waiting for my card to arrive. Will update soon

 

Just received mine today and installation went great. No problems. I have uninstalled the intel drivers and installed the drivers.

Runing on the F.1A Bios.

Thank you iyshannon, OhioLefty and the rest of you.

 

I ordered the same $14 card from ebay. The range is definitely less than the intel 1000 bgn card. I have tried windows 7 built-in drive, HP driver sp55805 and the driver from Ralink. Interestingly, the built-in driver, which is dated in 2009, is the one that performs the best, both in range and speed.My guesses here are

1. My card is a counterfeit (The pictures posted in this thread and others on Ebay show a black label with writing on it, mine only has a small oval hologram sticker (about a jelly-bean size).

2. Both HP and Ralink suck at writing driver for this card

I have yet to test it on gaming (the intel 1000 bgn drops connection every 15, 30 mins into the game).

 

I installed the RA RT2860 in my dv6tqe F.1A firmware in my sig. The signal quality for 2.4 ghz is less than the Intel 1000 4 vs 5 bars same distance. What was shocking was the range of the 5 ghz radio. It was half of the 2.4 ghz band. It is practically useless for me if the distance is one floor above. I reinstalled the Intel 1000 again checked again. No error. Reinstalled RA again, cleaned contact installed antennas, same thing. Atrocious range and signal quality. I have 2 Cisco E3000 running Tomato and ddwrt for testing. The RA received has no label on the antenna side. But it works fine. For my use and setup I reinstalled the Intel 1000. The RA is useless for me.

 

I am not sure if there is any similarity between the RT2860 and RT3592 or not, but my RT3592 also have short range in 5ghz band (about 15ft shorter than 2.4Ghz band). However, I can get it to connect when I am one floor above my router (WNDR3700 firmware x.x.16.8 NA). I have a Airlink 7025 USB wifi adapter, which ironically, also have a Ralink chipset. However, the Airlink has better range than the RT3592 in my laptop, despite the fact that it does not have 2 extra antennas like the RT3592. As long as it does not drop connection during the game, I guess I will keep it

 

I may have missed something somewhere, but how did you decide on the RT2860? Most cards discussed in this thread have been the RT3592BC8. Mine is working perfectly and the signal strength and range is excellent.



I'm using a Netgear DGND3300v2 Dual Band / DSL Router for what it's worth. Not the latest and greatest but it seems to do an excellent job in my house and home network.

Just curious...

 

5ghz is suppose to be shorter range.

 

My Ralink is identified as a RT3592 but the driver I downloaded from RAlink is identified as RT2860. I tried different drivers. I knew 5 ghz band has trouble going through walls and floors but for my setup it's not useable for me.

 

I just received the card and I can 100% say that it does work on the F.02 Bios. Thanks iyshannon!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

maybe people could update their posts to include which ebay seller they got their card from, and which router they are using. My $14 card keeps causing my 2Wire 2701hg-b to lose DSL and needs to retrain/reconnect. The funny thing is that is card and router seems connected.

I been looking at the 2Wire Event logs, and see A LOT of unsolicited connections being terminated by its firewall... I am NOT necessarily saying this has anything to do with the card, just that they exist. Googling the source IP addresses, typically results in seeing other people experiencing the same thing.

Here is typical of what I am seeing:

INF 2012-04-03T17:08:12-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=125.45.109.166 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=6 sport=12200 dport=6588 Unknown inbound session stopped
INF 2012-04-03T17:12:03-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=184.151.222.120 dst=192.168.1.66 ipprot=17 (layer 4 info unknown) Unknown inbound session stopped
INF 2012-04-03T17:14:04-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=173.203.204.217 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=17 sport=5060 dport=5060 Unknown inbound session stopped
INF 2012-04-03T17:59:56-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=133.45.184.214 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=6 sport=6000 dport=1433 Unknown inbound session stopped
INF 2012-04-03T18:34:58-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=125.45.109.166 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=6 sport=12200 dport=27977 Unknown inbound session stopped
INF 2012-04-03T18:34:58-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=125.45.109.166 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=6 sport=12200 dport=8085 Unknown inbound session stopped
NTC 2012-04-03T18:34:58-04:00 fw,fwmon: src=125.45.109.166 dst=69.37.94.85 ipprot=6 sport=12200 dport=9000 TCP Port Scan Detected

 

I got mine from ebay user notebookelite and I have the Netgear WNDR3400

 

I bought my Ralink RT3592BC8 from eBay seller notebooklite and I'm using a Netgear DGND3300v2 Dual Band / DSL Router.

I bought mine before the $14 card showed up. Can't be to upset, I spent $15 on the Mega Million and got nothing! At least I got a good working dual band card for my money.

 

I got mine from Ebay seller "itforlove8276"
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

Morning everyone; I haven't had any problems with range because my apartment isn't that big and I'm never more than 50 feet away. I do have an issue once a day where the 5 GHz disappears for a minute, however I am 99% sure that is my router as I saw that exact issue mentioned in an amazon review when I bought my router.

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about the 5GHz band. Note they are talking about 802.11a but it's the same band as 802.11n (5GHz).

Anyone having issues with having to switch back and forth between 2.4Ghz and 5GHz might find my setup useful. First I set a different SSID for each band (i.e. router and router5), and then connected to both networks in order to store the SSID and key in the Wireless Network settings for Windows 7. I put the 5GHz SSID higher in the list than the 2.4GHz so it's preferred, and I set the 2.4GHz network to automatically switch to a more preferred network when available. This way, most of the time I am on 5GHz, but when the signal does cut out, it switches to 2.4GHz very quickly, and when the 5GHz comes back online it switches back.

I saw a post from vrusso123 on the previous page that seemed to indicate he didn't have Bluetooth when he installed the card. Does everyone else have Bluetooth working? I did a short test on mine which was successful but I haven't used it since.

Thanks for the updated reports on working BIOS versions; I added them to the OP. I do know that at least one of the versions I have listed is a previous version, but I don't think it hurts to list it there as some people may not want to upgrade their BIOS for whatever reason.

Ian

 

Short word of caution, there is a new BIOS out for the HP dv7t-6bxx and dv7t-6cxx (F.16). Make sure if you have installed the Ralink RT3592BC8 that it still exists in the new F.16 BIOS.

Maybe Ian can take a look and see?

Link to the new F.16 BIOS

 

The new BIOS looks just fine, the whitelist sections are actually identical.

There is also a new driver update for the Ralink WiFi card, sp56036.exe (version 3.2.7.0) plus I found the correct driver to go with the Bluetooth module on the card. Up to this point, my Bluetooth adapter has been listed as "Generic Bluetooth Adapter" in the Device Manager. Although it seemed to be working, yesterday I noticed some random errors in the event viewer related to Bluetooth, so I thought I should look for the driver. Turns out it's the "Ralink/Motorola Bluetooth" driver which is sp55063.exe. Hasn't been long enough to see if the warning messages are gone, but I do have more Bluetooth services available, for instance I can now play music with my phone and route it over the laptop speakers (not that I would want to do that very often ).

Hope everyone has a great holiday weekend!
Ian

 

Update on the Bluetooth. I already had bluetooth but after I installed this the bluetooth it seems that it installed the one, the drivers for the one integrated is completely disabled but with errors showing on device manager.

The thing I like about the new one is that it is more useful as I don't have to open up the HP connection manager as I have a custom theme installed that would not let it open so was a bit of a hazzle to change theme and open HP connection manger. Now it's an icon on your notifications taskbar that could be easily disabled or enable and controlled from there.

Also the HP Connection manager if clicked to turn off bluetooth, it also turns of the Wifi. So You will still have to disable through the notifications on the taskbar.

This is for those that had bluetooth already.

 

The F.16 bios upgrade went well on my dv7t-6c00. A quick look at the bios setup screens did not reveal anything particularly new (or I missed it). But it is running fine.

And I already had the 3.2.7.0 driver installed for my recently acquired $14 Ralink card. The Ralink runs fine at 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

But I do have an ongoing curious situation with bluetooth. My original specs on this notebook included bluetooth. It was an Intel 1030 card. I never used the bluetooth but it did show up in the Device Manager. Since installing the RT3592 card I have yet to see any evidence that bluetooth still exists. It is not listed in the Device Manager.

Is it possible that my version of the RT3592 does not include bluetooth?

I tried installing the sp55063 bluetooth driver mentioned above, but it balked - suggesting that I need to enable the bluetooth hardware before I can install the driver. I have no clue how to accomplish that. Anyone know?


UPDATE: I figured it out. Had apparently long ago disabled the bluetooth radio in HP Connection Manager. And it remembered that through the swap of WiFI cards. I re-enabled it and now I do have bluetooth again.

 

I just got the part from HP parts and it works great with my HP dv7t-6b00 CTO with the BIOs upgrade to F.16.

 

Hey guys, I have a dv6tse I believe (how would I double check to make sure?), and I'm interested in upgrading my wifi card to this since currently my wifi is terrible. Would this work in the dv6tse, and how complicated is it to open up the laptop? Or would it be good enough to just purchase a USB wifi adapter such as Amazon.com: Sapido AU-4912 Mini USB 2.0 Network Adapter, Wireless N 150 Mbps Wi-Fi 802.11n Nano Adapter w/ One-Touch WPS and Wi-Fi Multimedia Technology to Eliminate Lag: Electronics Thanks for the help!

 

To double check what you have is you can press fn+Esc and get your product number and look it up on HP's website or in the System information dialog it would probably say on there. I think if you are comfortable opening your laptop by all means go for it. HP makes it easy where you can just open the service door and replace the WLAN card, memory card, hard drive,etc...I would prefer to change the WLAN card but if you are not comfortable you should probably get the USB wifi adapter.

 

I just ordered that exact USB adapter. Will let you know how well it works. Should be here today I believe.

 

Thanks for both replies! I will just wait for now then. I'm pretty comfortable with opening laptops; is the wifi card just plug in? Or how complicated is it?

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk

 

It's not that difficult but you still need to be careful of the antenas.

SO you take off the two Antenas black and white(remember where they go), take the two screws off and take out the card.

Then Put in the new one and put the screws and antenas back. That's all.

 

Depends on the card, not all cards have the black and white antenna leads oriented in the same position. The Ralink card has numbered triangles for proper connection. White antenna lead on white triangle, black antenna lead on black triangle.



Gently pry up on the antenna lead connectors to remove and then to install, line them up and gently snap them back on.

Good luck...

 

I always thought it went by number as the antennae had numbers. Didn't know it went by colors.

 

On the card that came with my dv7tqe, the #1 and white triangle were on the right hand side and the #2 and black triangle were on the left hand side so I had to reverse the antenna leads and my new setup works perfect.

I just stayed consistent with the color coding because my antenna leads didn't have numbers. Not sure, but maybe it doesn't matter. Wire is wire and the computer can't tell what color the insulation is.

Anybody else have an opinion?

 

First of all, great thanks to HTWingNut for selling me the card!

I can also confirm, it works perfect in my dv6-6b55eg with F.16 BIOS.

For antennas matter; on the card I got there are no numbers and no colors, but judging from pics here in this thread and on the internet the cables have to be reversed. I think you are right OhioLefty.

 

Uhm guys, where can I buy this wifi module? I have searched ebay, amazon, google, none left

 

I was going to do it for you but it was so easy I just couldn't bring my self to do it. Go to the very first post and click on the "ebay listings" link. There are literally six (6) sellers with plenty of stock, even the $14.00 seller with Free Shipping.

It doesn't get any easier than that!

*EDIT* I just couldn't help myself, I had to "Google" (like you said you did) "Ralink RT3592BC8" and hit number two (2) and three (3) brought up links to ebay that led to the Ralink card. One of these links led to a card that had already been sold but at the bottom of the page there was "other items like this one" that were available.

My apologies for the rant, but c'mon!

 

Oh, the reason I couldn't find it is that I've searched for "Ralink 3592BC8", not "630813-001". Thanks man

EDIT: I've already posted that I searched for "Ralink 3592BC8", which is posted in the very first post. And not for "Ralink RT3592BC8"...

 

Thanks prebuss, you were right, I had missed the "RT" at the top of the very first post; I changed it so no one else has the same issue.

OhioLefty, I'm completely clueless regarding antennas - all I know is that some cards have two connectors and some have three, and my laptop has two so I made sure the card did too. I'm thinking that my old card had the connectors numbered on the circuit board and I just used those numbers; I didn't even notice the triangles until you pointed it out.

Having taken apart a number of laptops in my life, I will caution anyone that's never messed with those antenna connectors that it's pretty easy to start bending things when you reconnect them if you aren't lined up right. I had terrible luck with my last laptop: spilling things on it and dropping it an incredible number of times, so I took it apart pretty frequently to fix it. By the end of its life the connectors were very loose from all the reconnecting.

Ian

 

I think the #3 connector is for computers/cards that have WiMax (internet connection via 3G/4G option). Your computer needs to already have the third lead installed otherwise the card acts like an ordinary WLAN card.

From Wiki:

WiMAX (Worldwide Interoperability for Microwave Access) is a wireless communications standard designed to provide 30 to 40 megabit-per-second data rates[1], with the 2011 update providing up to 1 Gbit/s for fixed stations. It is a part of a “fourth generation,” or 4G, of wireless-communication technology. WiMax far surpasses the 30-metre (100-foot) wireless range of a conventional Wi-Fi local area network (LAN), offering a metropolitan area network with a signal radius of about 50 km (30 miles). The name "WiMAX" was created by the WiMAX Forum, which was formed in June 2001 to promote conformity and interoperability of the standard. The forum describes WiMAX as "a standards-based technology enabling the delivery of last mile wireless broadband access as an alternative to cable and DSL".[2] WiMax offers data-transfer rates that can be superior to conventional cable-modem and DSL connections, however, the bandwidth must be split among multiple users and thus yields lower speeds in practice.[3]

 

Ok, here's what I found out aboat antennas;

I have a Linksys E2000 router at home and I picked up 3 different spots in my appartment where I tested the internet connection via speedtest.net and signal strenght with the latest version of InSSIDer.

In my case with dv6-6bxx laptop it DOES NOT MATTER, how I connect the antennas. The signal strenght is IDENTICAL and I get same speeds.

Funny is however, that in general my signal strenght is now a little bit lower than with previous Broadcom BCM4313 1x1 WLAN card... Drivers?

 

It doesn't surprise me that the antennas work either way, it does make me wonder why manufacturers go to the bother of labeling some cards with the numbers and color coding or both.

 

My Ralink RT3592BC8 ($14 Ebay Cheapie) does not have the identity sticker on the card face.

The antenna wires are labeled black 1 and white 2. I replaced the wires in the same orientation as with the original card (Intel 1030) that came with the notebook from the factory.

 

I have the EXACT SAME card (with this funny XZ sticker)!

What did you find out? Is your WiFi signal also weaker than with Intel 1030?

 

The signal does seem to be weaker than with the Intel 1030 card. I do not do any streaming. I have a Netgear WNDR3400 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router and just wanted the capability for the choice between 2.4 and 5 Ghz bands.

I get better signal connection and speeds with 2.4 over 5 Ghz. Seems to me that 5Ghz should be at least as fast if not faster but it is not. I may have been mislead by marketing hype. I am not sure what made me think that.

I have a neighbor with WEP (apartment) that has a better connection than me and I am 20 feet away from the router.

 

It is completely normal that 2.4Ghz have better signal connection over 5Ghz. It is physics . The advantage of 5ghz the amount of channels it offers thus less interference.

make sure you using WPA2-AES, some other encryption decrease signal strength.

 

anyone had any luck getting a BigFoot Killer-N wireless card working with the HP dv6? BIOS F.12?

 

The new driver ver. 3.2.12.0 is out:

Ralink-A MEDIATEK COMPANY

 

Can anybody provide a direct link? I can't find version 3.2.12.0 through the provided link.

Thanks...

 

I have a DV6-6091. I'm confused, do I have to mod the bios for this?

 

No you do not need to.

 

ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp56501-57000/sp56942.exe