*HP HDX 9000 DRAGON Owners Lounge, Part 2*

It's a big to do. You will need to know how to solder and understand your way around a circuit board. Then flashing your RAM's SPDTable requires one of two programs. SPDTool or Thaiphoon burner(32 bit which requires a 32bit OS).

2.694 is nominal 2.7. Meaning that is as high as it gets. Why? 199.5 mhz (FSB) x 13.5 = 2.69x. So you're good. Does it stay that way while you run Wprime?

 

FSLx overclock - FSB to 266Mhz... failed.

Posts, starts to load windows and just before the desktop, where the cursor is seen against a black screen... BSD (blue screen of death).

Don't know what it is. Could be the RAM or it could be that the HDX just doesn't like a 266mhz FSB. Not enough volts to the CPU at 12.5x266=3.325. It probably can't do that @ 1.213v.

 

imo it's cpu's voltage problem.
you can try also with only 2gb of ram.

 

+1. CPU likely needs more voltage. Can overvolt all VIDs of 1.1125V or greater by 0.2V by connecting VID4+Vss. So you'll be able to overvolt b/w 1.3125-1.45V, plenty to get a stable overclock.

Or RAM may need the complete 333Mhz SPTtable entry modified to be the same as 400Mhz SPDtable entry. The RAM should have then have sufficient headroom to accomodate running at the slightly faster 444Mhz speed (@266Mhz PLL).

 

Yep, I believe it's a voltage problem too. Because just before it gets to the desktop, the CPU fan kicks into high. So probably going to try the VID4+Vss trick for the extra .2v. But that requires an additional 2 hours of work since the CPU is on the other side of the mobo and additional disassembly is required.

Since I reassembled the HDX, won't have time for that until perhaps this weekend. Getting to the PLL was easy. Just the top cover, rear cover and keyboard is all that had to come off. A jeweler's magnifier was needed to cut the land leading to FSEL pin on the circuit board. The HDX actually runs fine with the FSEL disconnected. But I soldered a wire to the pin and it's destination, just in case.

 

Ah, yea that sounds scary.. but if I could match or surpass an overclocked X9000 I think I might be less scared to try that over any reported successful GPU upgrade. The difference between what, a snip and software manipulation over a concentrated mod via GPU surgery.

YAY! I CONSISTENTLY am NOW getting 2693.1MHZ! Thank you VERY much for the help 2.0!!! BIG difference. Before I'd be typing and it would lag so the letters would get all jumbled up.. doesn't happen anymore. Use to lag when scrolling through tabs, not anymore. Man.. have been testing and pushing it and I don't think it lags at all anymore anywhere. Wow! It has that extra UMPH I was wanting with the 2.8GHZ via the X9000 which would have it even more so. Makes me want an X9000.. but if the same or even better results could be had without having to spend another $400-$600 on another CPU I'd have to have upgraded.. or another $1800 for another HDX WITH the X9000 via the mod you're referring to, that would be utterly amazing!

I followed the directions and have it set to that rate via Throttlestop from startup and it seems all good.. one thing that may be good to add to the directions is how to make permissions via Task Scheduler on how to make sure Throttlestop runs at start up so that the UAC doesn't stop it like some had with trying to get HWMontray working. Regardless, thank you so much for this! This rocks!

Btw I notice it moves a bit from 2693.2 to say 2693.9 or higher without me doing much. Being overclocked, is that the extent to which it scales now?

 

So it's still possible that it could work then with some more testing? Hmm.. I guess it doesn't sound as intimidating as a GPU upgrade attempt would be.. Would an HP tech be able to tell what you did to it?

 

It's still possible but requires more hardware modification. Need to jump two pins in the CPU socket to get an extra .1 to .2 volts. That's likely why it blue screens. Just like when you undervolt a CPU to low, it bluescreens. @3.33GHz, probably needs 1.3-1.325v. The most it can get right now is 1.213v. If I jump VID3 to VSS in the CPU socket, I can get and extra .1 for 1.312V. VID4 to VSS, then 1.413v. BUt then that's an extra .2v across each multiplier level. Destined to warm things up a small bit at idle. Probably 1 or 2 degrees at idle. On full load, maybe 10 to 15 degress.

Then there is the issue of flashing RAM's EEprom for the appropriate timing. I did the CAS6 only on a PC2-6400 DDR2 RAM with 6-6-6-18 timing. Perhaps I should just try it with the original PC2-5300 flashed to CAS 4,5,6 from 3,4,5 timing.

Would an HP tech tell what was done? Yes and no. In the PLL area, no, not unless he had a magnifying glass and looked for it. But jumping pins on the CPU socket, if the CPU had to be removed, yes.

 

This is actually harder than a GPU upgrade. You REALLY need the right tools. Ohm meter, small soldering iron, jewelers magnifier, etc. You have to score the PCB to break the land from the FSEL pin on the PLL. Then solder pins 57 and 58 which grounds the FSEL signal which jumps the FSB from 200 to 266mhz.

The CPU jumperstep for VID3 or 4 to VSS is easier though.

Plus you will have to flash your RAM using SPDTool. Mess up and bye-bye RAM... per se.

Yeah, I forgot about those using UAC.

Totally normal.

 

Based on ark.intel.com, the T9300 has a voltage range of 0.95V-1.25V, giving the VID table as shown below.



We see the RED VID4+Vss is all that you require. That would increase Throttlestop's 1.1125-1.25V listing by 0.2V to now actually be 1.3125-1.45. So you'd bootup at [email protected] and could then use Throttlestop to lower down to 1.1125 (which is really 1.3125V) once in Win7 if it's stable at that low level. That's plenty of overvolting range to get you a stable overclock at your highest multiplier.

All voltages b/w 0.95-1.10 will be unaffected since they already have VID4=0, so your battery life will be unaffected. Though you'll probably want to test for the highest stable multiplier at the lowest voltage to get best undervolted DC profile as well. Would require fine tuning because of the 200->266Mhz PLL overclock.

If you did a VID3+Vss mod, then the VID3 entries BLUE entries would see their voltage increase by 0.1V. I wouldn't anticipate you requiring such a mod.

 

VID4 to VSS it is then. Thanks for the table Nando.

Though, now that I think about it, an X9000 in the HDX can do 3.4ghz @ 1.25v and 3.6ghz @ 1.3v stable. If I chose VID3-VSS, then the top voltage of 1.30 should do. I don't mind the low end coming up by .1v as battery life isn't relevant other than that it is used as an UPS.

 

Yea.. that's exactly what I thought should be done.. duh 2.0. Lol.. I think I understand like every forth word in the above reply you posted.. but it does sound cool Lol. Joking.. sort of. So wait wasn't there a concern that it could possibly fry or overwork other components if it does work?

Is the removal of the CPU like the last resort as a solution? What would they see, that the thermal paste was taken off and another was used or something?

 

LOL. No, it won't fry anything since the PCI-e bus is not affected by the FSB O/C.

It's a necessary evil to get at two pins - VID3 or 4 and VSS. Need more power and they supply it. Basically, you use a very small wire that will be inserted into the CPU socket. Then you put the CPU back into the socket.

SO if an HP tech needed to take the CPU out, he/she/it would see the wire and know you did it.

 

Just a FYI I have been running [email protected] non-stop for months now without issue. That is the max I felt safe with the VID. I was able to run Prime95 overnight with these settings and never broke 76c.

 

Check what the highest (default) bootup VID is for the x12.5 multiplier. If it's 1.25V then VID3+Vss won't do anything. Would need VID4+Vss to give you a +0.2V overvolt.

 

VID4 it is then.

Big job breaking the HDX all the way down, them redoing the thermal compound, then testing open, then putting it all back together again. Might have to wait until after the Holidays before I go back in again.

 

Voltage regulator overvolting mod instead of CPU pinmod?

The VID4+Vss mod sends a signal to the Voltage regulator (VR) to add the 0.2V. If the VR is more accessible then consider setting the corresponding VID4 pin to GND there instead. Examples below to help you along:

Overclocking laptop Core 2 Duo P8400 Mobile CPU: mod in a voltage divider to provide a % increase to all VIDs.
Acer 1810T undervolting via voltage regulator VID pins

 

there is pcmcia or expresscard in dragon?

 

Hi, does anyone knows cheap way to add two extra monitors (dell 1920x1200) to hdx? Thanks

 

Can do a $114 DIY ViDock using a HD5450 + 12V AC adapter. Connects up using your expresscard slot.

$65-shipped PE4L+EC2C
$40-HD5450
$9 12V/72W AC adapter

Can even add a third monitor if get a displayport to DVI adapter. Eyefinity supported on HD54xx or newer cards.

There's USB 2.0 DisplayLink solutions as well, but don't expect any decent framerates even for basic web browsing.

 

That thought did cross my mind but I'm pretty sure it's on the other side of the MOBO near the CPU. Would save the trouble of having to redo the thermal compound on the CPU.

 

ExpressCard.

 

I believe you can dual out with VGA to one monitor and HDMI to the other.

If not, Nando's solution is an option.

Anther option is Matrox dual head: Multiple Monitors for Laptops | Multi-monitors

 

Ah ok sweet!

So you do have to take out the CPU in order to do the mod.. Hmm.. Can you list the reasons an HP tech may take the CPU out? Or is that something they might do like 40-50% of the time?

 

That's phenomenal! If I may ask, which exact CPU did you get, SLA_ or Engineering sample?

 

So far, yes, unless the voltage regulator is located and the circuitry is easy to follow. The CPU jump is the easiest to do and undo. So that makes it best.

Only reason they would take it out is when exchanging what they think is a bad mobo for a new one. They would transfer your old CPU and RAM to the new one. That is when they *might* notice the little tiny wire that is jumping VSS and a few pin holes over, to VID4.

 

I have an OEM version. I got lucky back when the Ebay supply was more than the demand. Only paid $260 and sold my 8100 for $100.

 

No reply up here:

and no reply up here, what have I just done?

Well then I answer myself

1.No, the limitation of the CPU in Battery Mode is also retained despite ThrottleStop.
(T9300 max 6x199,5 MHz FSB or approximately 1200 MHz CPU)
But: - If one of the options ThrottleStop "Unlock Bidirectional PROCHOT enabled and then the main window," BD PROCHOT "sets, HDX runs on battery with no CPU limit. :laugh:

Unclewebb describes "BD PROCHOT" as follows:

Anyway, it works on the HDX for full power CPU in Battery.
The GPU is limited, however, still at 383 MHz max.

"ThrottleStop" and "moddet F40E BIOS" the best use of tools is a long time.
Many thanks to Unclewebb and Nando4! :wink:

2.My settings and results for VistaHP32 and Win7Prof64 with T9300:

Performance: "Set Multiplier" x13.5, "Voltage 1.0250"
This voltage is sufficient for me, even under load.
"Voltage 1.0125" gives me a BSOD.

Results with 1.0250 V:

wPrime32M = 32.526 sec
wPrime1024M = 1034.08 sec (CPU fan stays quiet even at Bench, Temperature under 50 C)

When voltage is over 1.0250 (1.0500 or 1.1000) CPU fan rotates at wPrime benchmark higher. Temperature over 50 C)

3DMark06 CPU 2.7 GHz to 1.0250 V, GPU 650/1040/1625, Vista 32 with NVidia 257.21:
3DMark Score 10111.0 - 3DMarks
SM2.0 Score: 4735.0
HDR/SM3.0 Score: 4425.0
CPU Score: 2433.0

For more information on "ThrottleStop" on the HDX:
1. Auto Startup of the Prg. I do not recommend. The reason for this is not always correct voltage setting at startup.
Although not untervoltet (no BSOD danger), but the voltage is happy times on the set value. If Auto Run, Take control with tool like CPU-Z voltage!
My tool is always HWiNFO32.

2. The individual profiles are shared with the HDX not readily available. If you want to use this, so begins one's preferences with the best "EIST" field. So the Prg.Window. IDA should be switched off at low profiles.
In addition, under clock settings are only possible if the energy savings plan allows. For example, balanced energy profile. (Lowest processor state 5%)

3. A Manual editing of the "ThrottleStop.ini" is not necessary!
In version 2.89 and 2.90 beta 4 of the IDA startup mode is indeed activated in the options menu.

4. To access the HDX factory clocking, must before closing ThrottleStop following are enabled: "SLFM", "EIST".
The turbo must be enabled. (Hook delete)
And to not accidentally to run on battery without limitation, must be "BD PROCHOT" be set!
Profile, voltage, and multiplier are irrelevant.

5. More stable profiles:
Game Profile: x12.5 at 1.0125 V = ca 2.5 GHz
Internet profile: x10 at 0.9500 V = ca 2.0 GHz
Battery profile x8 at 0.9500 V (x6 with Vista to be able to capture SLFM) = 0.8 GHz, or 1.2 GHz (x6), or 1.6 GHz (8x200 MHz) As I with "EIST" capture as desired.

 

RickiBerlin!

I can't believe I missed that you were in NY! Totally missed that post. November was a busy month.

Anyway, I was trying to figure out the battery settings but you beat me to it. I got sidetracked with working on FSB overclock.

You're 3Dmark06 score is impressive. I got 9713 w/CPU @ 2.7, 610/975/1525 on GPU.

Have to try out 1.025V. Currently @ 1.100V

I'll revise the setup post with the content of your post later today or tomorrow.

 

I drank your beer itself. Next time....

I'm At an advantage. Do not need a flash RAM, I have 8GB PC2 6400 800 MHz 6/6/6/18. I had a good instinct. Maybe later working on FSB. Now I reach 2.7 GHz.
Vista32 with pagefile.sys on RamDisk over 4GB of 8GB (PAE). DualbootWin7 64 with 8GB without pagefile.sys. Good thing I had not bought a 667 MHz 5300th

At 1.0125 V of the crash is in idle, so even without the burden of wPrime etc.
(Test individually on Vista32 and Win7Prof 64)
1.0250 V at no BSOD. Stable on V and 7, despite several runs of wP32M, wP1024M and 3x3DMark06.

 

Perhaps Berlin in summer?

I have 4GB of PC2-6400 6-6-6-18 RAM to play with that I took out of my DV5. Maybe towards to end of the month I'll try again but with VID4-VSS CPU socket mod for the extra .2v that it seems to require.

I can get down to 1.050V with no issues. I'll try a bit more later today. See if I can get down to 1.025V.

BTW, I changed my GPU setting to 625/1000/1600 and get 9953 on 3DMark06.

 

:rolleyes2:

we must have brother chips! I was working with 4.0 until the casual rpm jump noise became annoying. Also, up to 80 C under heaviest load was a bit too stressful, which I'm sure is why you refrain from it besides its negligible help in gaming

 

OK, I'm looking forward to you !

I always wanted to over 10,000 points. For whatever!??! To play I do not use this setting (650/1040/1625). While 3DMark is indeed a kind of game for the brain.
Please do not destroy your GPU!

What do you want to increase the voltage !?
I'm done with FSB overclock. I must be only the second core modest.
T9300 4.1 GHz CPU at 13x304 MHz FSB must be enough.
And this with 1.0250 volts. See snapshot HWiNFO32 .....



Yes, this is a real picture of my HDX.
Unfortunately, only a snap.
So please do not cheer just a little fun.
Who uses HWiNFO32 will occasionally see this value. (For 22μs, I was faster )

 

Very impressive. Can you elaborate on how you achieved this? Presumably you've done a TME-unlock so can then use setfsb to overclock to 304Mhz?

 

Double post, only for information and perhaps better explanation.
(Yes I know, a link would have been enough)
Sorry! Is important to me for all ThrottleStop Auto Runner ".
Who wants to run for a long time already 2.7 GHz "V at 1.2125.
This may shorten the life of the CPU something.
So always check, even if it is mostly ok!

Sorry, I know exactly what is to be set. Only my English is poor.
Try to explain it again ...

Start ThrottleStop "with the following settings (always 100% identical conditions) [EIST, SLFM" on "etc] -see this:




And now, behold, the voltage in CPU-Z ! (HWInfo32 shows the same value):


The voltage is not correct. Stand firm on the maximum value. Without my control it would be a high CPU load for a long time.

This happens only every 10th start of "ThrottleStop.
In general, the start is with the pre-making of me voltage of 1.0250 V.
sse this:


Attention: I do not need help! Yes, all combinations have been tested.
(V, 1,100 or others, "BD PROCHOT" on and off, and others)
Believe me, tried everything!

Would like to point out. And thus the need for a voltmeter in "ThrottleStop.

For reconsideration Info: If you do this---> <--- klick!, have not read, here is an excerpt:

BD PROCHOT raises the HDX, the CPU limitation on Battery.
Thus, therefore, to 2.7 GHz on battery possible. (Previously max 1.2 GHz T9300)

Thank you with your work gives me a lot of fun. :yes:

 

You have not read what is written under my picture!
The four lines above the picture is rubbish. (Wanted to perplex 2.0)

Sorry! However, thank you for modded Bios!

 

...and answer from unclewebb see this ---> many thanks!

 

Very nice indeed. That was a good suggestion of yours. Though I couldn't reproduce the issue you had with VID going to 1.213. And I have EIST set to off.

Unless you mean when on battery. Something I haven't tested since I only run battery when the power goes out.

 

Anyone have any experience with/knowledge regarding this OPTICAL TO HD CADDY?

Looks like a way to get 12.5s into the beast.

 

Is this the non-overkill stable layman maximum for the Dragon?:

 

Most folks go with the ones made by NewModeUS : Optical Bay HDD : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks

Specifically these HDDs: HP Hard Drive Caddys

As for fitting a 12.5mm HDD, you'd have to contact NewModeUS.

 

Each CPU is different with different tolerances to overclock. Run Wprime 1024 test and Intel Burn Test to determine. If it bluescreens during either test, then it is too high.

 

There's also the US$19-delivered 12.7mm ebay "Fenvi" sata-to-pata caddy. Has a swappable faceplate as shown here. No reason why a 12.5mm HDD wouldn't fit in one of those.

 

That's nice and nice price too! Good find.

I figure with the open top, as long as there is at least 1 mm clearance in the HDX, it should be good to go for a 12.5 mm HDD. The casing itself is 12.5-12.65mm in total thickness as most optical drives are.

 

if someone bona-fide's 444 going on RAM, I may just put my T9500 back in!

 

Absolute gold!

 

This makes me wish HP made the optical drive top-loading since there's so much face space available. Either way, time to test a three-way SSD!

 

The caddy that was linked is a sata-to-pata. I believe you have a PATA optical drive, as was the trend with ICH8M-based systems.

A third SSD could be used in place of the optical drive, but consider the performance limitations across a UDMA5 PATA interface: you'd lose sata's NCQ multithreaded reads/writes, reads would max at 100MB/s and writes at 88.9MB/s and the sata-to-pata bridge would add a 0.8-1W power consumption overhead.

Can see example performance of sata SSDs across a sata-to-pata bridge here.

 

See below.

You are correct sir.

I was thinkin' more in terms of using the newer, larger (capacity and size) mechanicals for inconspicuous copious internal storage.

 

Hey Folks!

I'm in need of advice with my keyboard. First thing is some play has developed on the bottom left of the keyboard. When a key is pressed you can see the keyboard flex. Not a big deal, but it makes the keyboard feel really "klunky". Is it possible for the keyboard to warp?

Second thing is, for example if I need to scroll up or down a document, I would push one of the arrow keys and when I release it it continues to scroll like the key is still being pushed for a couple of seconds. Happens with other keys as well. It doesn't happen all the time, and when it does happen restarting the computer temporarily corrects it.

Not major problems, but it's starting to get on my nerves. Do I need to ask Santa for a new keyboard?