*HP dv5z (1XXX series) Owners Lounge* **PUMA Goodness**

I have also been having some issues with my battery as well.
Got my laptop around June 08. So little over a year.
Whenever I restart or it does one of its random black screens because of overheating. Itll say that the battery my not be optimal or something for the laptop performance.
I had to get a new laptop charger since the one that came with the laptop died for some reason. So not sure if thats the issue.
But yea...

 

Clearly that temperature is way too high for just web browsing.

The only time I see temperatures like that is when I am video editing or playing the occasional game. While I do keep my dv5z on a cooler I never really see high temps like the ones members on here are reporting unless I am really stressing the notebook. Even when I take the notebook off of the cooler and use it on my lap the highest temps I normally notice are around ~55C (of course I don't do anything stressing while the notebook is on my lap). I don't undervolt and I have never changed the thermal paste.

The dv5's (AMD and Intel) seem to have heating problems in general but some seem to suffer more than others.

 

From what I gather, the main issues with this laptop stems from the thermal pad. I may or may not have stated in my other posts, I have a friend of mine that owns a PC repair shop, and I asked him to give me a call every time he gets a DV5 in the shop. Everyone he's gotten in the shop was over heating issues. We've found that the cooling design on this laptop is insufficient for a hot burning chip like the old turion chip. Seemingly, the thermal pad fails as well. Any mediocre PC guru will tell you that thermal pads are really inefficient compared to tubing.

As I told a friend of mine that told me that I wasn't going to quit until I got a new laptop just for the hell of it, it's not the physical heat that bothers me. I rarely use this laptop in my lap, so it's not that big of an issue. What bugs me is the premature wearing on the other components that I see. When my HD gets hot enough to discolor the metal frame on it, it raises questions. Heat kills everything. I'll never trust this HD again, not to mention the network card that lies directly below the HD that gets the grunt of the heat first.

Now, as a promised update, I sent the laptop off for strike to so to speak. It took them a little longer to get it back to me this time since right before I sent it in, I was involved in a car wreck, and my nephew had it out watching a movie at the time. Both of us were fine, and my truck is already fixed, but the laptop bounced off the windshield a few times and didn't fare well.

When I got it back, the little repair sheet claimed that they replaced the Thermal pad, but a new mobo and CPU in, system board, and wireless card.

I got it back, popped my HD in and booted it up... Nothing. The caps lock key light and the scroll lock key light were blinking simoltaniously. Wasn't sure what was wrong so I began trouble shooting. seems that who ever tore into my laptop didn't lock the CPU down, and during shipping, it had shifted just enough to cause problems. Not a big thing, but just poor quality control I guess. Once I got it booted up, it started running hot once again. I called the number that I posted on the previous page again. There was no fighting, no arguing. They told me that I need a new laptop. They offered a pretty sweet one and I would have took it except for one thing. Here's the specs:
- DV6-1250US
- Intel 2.0ghz L2 cache of 3MB I got excited about this piece. That's still a damn nice chip to have.
- 4 gigs DDR2 mem
- 500 gig HD
- Intel graphics accelerator with 1 gig mem.

That was all nice, but I can't deal with the GPU they offered me. The case manager I was dealing with got my H number and saw that my laptop was a CTO and that I had the upgraded chip. He claims that that will have to be upgraded. I guess up until now, they assumed I had the base model or something. The bad thing is since mine is a CTO, they have to make it a CTO to get comparable specs. The guy I was talking to doesn't know if he can offer the same laptop model since it has to be CTO. I'd be a happy camper if they just threw an upgraded card in the one they offered me for obvious reasons. I'm awaiting to hear from them, and plan on calling in the morning to see what the status is.


Jukams- My battery died about 2 months back and HP has neglected to mess with it. The battery life didn't seem to be hurt, but 7 keeps telling me that the battery is shot. AND the power adapter went on mine about 2 weeks after windows said to replace the battery. In my opinion, this is a classic example of heat distress.

I want to make a suggestion to all laptop buyers. Always invest in an upgraded warranty. ALWAYS. I know for a lot of things, it may be considered a waste, but I've been around computers for a long time, and they always fail at some point.
Trust me on this, I'm a college student too, but I always wait until I have enough bones to buy the extended warranty.



My suggestion to those of you with this laptop out of warranty and suffering from heat issues:

- Pull the laptop apart and cover the heat sinks with some AS5.
- Upgrade the fan
- Keep the laptop on a chill mat at all times
- Cross your fingers and start saving money for a new laptop.

It really is no wonder why HP disabled the cross firing ability on this notebook.

 

HEY!
I'm in need of some serious help guys.
Awhile back my laptop started getting very noisy if it tapped something or if i moved it and didn't set it down like a feather.
Its happening on the upper left side of the keyboard.
I'm thinking it might be the fan? Because if I would hit it or slightly drop it against something hard it would go away.
Not sure what it is.
But I came home tonight and it was super loud. And nothing was fixing it. Kept turning off(which was another way of getting rid of the noise). But now that isn't working.
I can't unscrew anything tonight because it's late. But if you guys can give me some advice. I don't really want to buy a new laptop but it seems it might be heading that way.
OH and also now when I plug in my internet cord, I get no internet. -Sigh-
Please help guys!!!

 

That noise that you are reporting is most likely the fan. My old acer had that same problem, sometimes I would be using it and the fan would start to make alot of noise and I would tap the notebook and it would stop. I took the fan out put some WD-40 on it and that worked for a while but eventually I had to replace the fan when it stopped working completely.
Just replace the CPU fan and the noise should go away.
The dv5 can be complicated to take apart good luck!

As for your internet connection that can be caused by a multitude of things...

 

I have a HP Pavilion dv5 and upgraded to Windows 7 I love Windows but the only program I can't get to work is UltraISO v9.35. I upgraded from Vista when UltraISO worked fine.. I get the error message "dvd-r/rw media requires setting mode page to use DAO writing" I tried an other ISO burner and it works fine except I don't care for the program...can anyone help with this problem

 

Just a heads up, found a solution to the HDMI port not working under Windows 7. I assumed for a long time that HP had just disabled mine (long story), but I decided to so a little experimenting last night, and got my HDMI to work.

I went to HP's site and downloaded the ATI display driver for a DV6z and it works perfectly.

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareList?os=4063&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=3915097

Take note, that link is for 64bit, so if you have 32, you need to go back a page and select that.

 

Ya I tried taking it apart this morning Evo.
I took out all the screws but didnt know how to take the back actually off.
So I said forget it.
And as far as my internet goes. I think the side port got pushed in or something but whenever I put my cord in, it doesn't blink green or anything. So I don't know what happened to it.....
Piece of crap overall.... lol.

 

Larmie I have been having the same problem since I went to windows 7 with the HDMI not being detected even when using the official HP dv5 ATI driver. Now that you installed the dv6z ATI driver what does windows 7 detect your card as?

Jukams HP used to have the Media Services Library that would show you how to disassemble your dv5; however in recent months they seem to have locked it down and you can no longer view the disassembly videos unless you are an authorized HP partner.

 

It's picking it up as a Radeon HD3450. Which is what I had put in it when I bought it.

I have noticed that in order to plug HDMI in and to get it to pick up, the lid on the laptop must be closed for some reason.

 

Does anyone have any ideas on how I could fix my internet port?
I plug the cord in and nothing happens.
Seems to be pushed in maybe or maybe it just plain broke.
Having to use a Verizon broadband thing. Pretty crappy internet.
Might just get a router and make a wifi.
Idk....!!

 

^ Bear with me here, but if I recall correctly, the wired internet adapter lies underneath the HD. If so, I'd say heat nailed it. Refer to my earlier post in this thread where there is a picture of heat displacement on the HD. That was caused by direct contact with the net card.... Just pull it and take a look.

 

For some reason I don't think thats it.
I think it somehow messed up when I was bashing it with my hand to try and make the fan to stop being so loud.
But i'm probably wrong.
Idk. The fan isn't loud anymore but i haven't moved my laptop at all really....
sucks not having a good internet

 

It's possible... I'd still pull it and have a look see. There is two wires on it. One gray and one black. They are easy to knock off. Maybe one is loose? Think optimistically....

 

So how to I pull it apart?
I unscrewed everything a few days ago, but didnt see how to pull anything else off...

 

- Pull the cover off the HD cover. (closest to the battery)
- Remove HD, should just pull out and the cable either pulls off the mobo or the HD itself
- Underneath the HD will be a little card about 2X1" in size with one black wire and one Gray wire. There will be one silver screw holding it down. Once that's removed, the card should just stand up a little bit and you can pull it out away from the connection.

 

I may be thinkin of this wrong. But the back part that i have to take off is the BIGGESt piece.
And I couldn't get that off last time.

 

No no. This laptop is a top down laptop. You basically have to take the whole thing apart before you can get to the mobo. What I'm talking about is a little cover with one screw in it up next to the battery. It's an access tray to the HD and the Network card. 2 screws have to come out and that's it.


As for my personal endaeovers, I got a call from HP, and I am officially moving on. Since they had to do a CTO, they ended up giving me a DV6Z with a few extra goodies thrown in. Here is the list.

# • Espresso Black
# • Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
# • AMD Turion(TM) II Dual-Core Processor M500 (2.2GHz, 1MB L2 Cache)
# • 3GB DDR2 System Memory (2 Dimm)
# • 250GB 5400RPM SATA Hard Drive with HP ProtectSmart Hard Drive Protection
# • 512MB ATI Mobility Radeon(TM) HD 4530
# • 15.6" diagonal High Definition LED HP Brightview Widescreen Display (1366x768)
# • LightScribe SuperMulti 8X DVD+/-RW with Double Layer Support
# • Webcam Only
# • Wireless-N Card
# • HP Color Matching Keyboard
# • 6 Cell Lithium Ion Battery
# • No Modem

I should have it by the 11th, so looks like I have some prep work to do.

 

The only thing I hate about that DV6Z config is the 15.6" screen, I absolutely hate 16:9 ratio screens!!!

The turion II should run cooler than the current turion you have but I would have pushed them to see if they I could get the ATI 4650

 

I had to threaten a bunch to get the CPU and the GPU upgrade like I did. Not to mention, I have another trick up my sleeve.

 

Hello Larmie1997, it's nice to heat a success story like yours. I signed up here because I want to get some advice about how to deal HP customer support. I've been dealing with the same problem like many where the battery for my dv5z-1000 has not been functional for the past couple months and I've just been running on the AC adapter. But even then, my laptop overheats greatly and to keep it from going to the blank screen, I keep my power plan on "Balanced" and only do a few tasks at a time. This means I can't, for example, run my browser while playing music without my laptop reaching a core temperature of 90+ degrees Celsius and then the screen goes blank after 10-15 minutes or so.

Should I call that number you posted earlier and try to deal with the Americans? How should I go about it? I'm pretty tired of talking to the Indian folks because I'm so sure of what the problem is and I don't want to to send my laptop in for the nth time just to get the same problems. I had initially bought this laptop for college 16 months back but now I can barely do as much as I would like with the laptop.

 

You can try to call that number, but I wonder if they'll even really talk to you. They might, but I'm not sure.

Now, When did you buy the notebook? If you are still under the Factory 1 year warranty, great!

That blank screen after a few minutes of high heat is from heat distress itself.
Tell me, do you use your HDMI port at all, and if so, when you plug a cord in, the laptop will just turn off? Both of those are classic signs that the GPU is on its way out.

Now, more than likely, if you are still under warranty, you're going to have to call the main repair line in India and deal with them one more time. You need to raise all holy hell and demand to speak with a supervisor there. Demand that the supervisor "Escalate" the case to the Case management division (The people at that number I posted) Then you'll be on your way.

If you aren't under any kind of warranty, then I suggest you either pull the notebook apart and apply AS5 to the heat sinks and replace or upgrade the fan. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then take it somewhere and have it done.

You should be able to get some more time out of it at cooler temps, but in the mean time, you'll be on borrowed time.


EDIT: I just saw that you are out of the one year, so unless you have an extended warranty, you need to do option 2 and start saving for a new notebook.

 

Well I took it apart. And both the cords are still attached.

 

... Okay... Did you have any heat discoloring on it? Did the HD have some interesting heat coloring on it? I'd say that's what fried it. All I have access to is the DV6Z which it's nearly the same as the DV5z. From the manual I have, it says that that card IS the wired network card. If you are sure you don't have a driver issue, then you need to order a new one and replace. There should be a sticker on the card itself with an HP part number that you can look up.

 

I don't know what happen.
Just seems messed up from banging it.
But hey, if I wanted to whipe my computer. What would I need?
I don't think I can do it since I don't remember the laptop coming with any cd's (for installing windows and such).

 

There is a separate partition on the HD labeled HP Recovery, or something like that. You can go into system restore and let it use that partition to go off of.

The better option would be to find a Win7 disk. Either legal or not. If you're a student, M$ offers Win7 for like $30.00 or something like that.

 

All my system restores are recent since I never set any old ones. And it wouldn't help.

Where is it for 30?
I went to the microsoft site and there all 100+.

 

im sorta scared to do it now.
since my internet connection doesnt work.
im on a verizon broadband thing.
but i dont know the password because its under my uncles account. (dont know if he still has the disks or whatever.)

but im also thinking of getting a router tomorrow. and setitng that up. so I guess it wouldnt matter since I would have wifi..
whatever ima do it.
i got my iphone if i need anything.

 

Unless you specifically either went in and used the 10gig or so partition of the HD to do your backups, or you flat deleted them, then it is the factory file base in that partition.

As far as the discounted Win7 deal, here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=438493 Main thing and most important is you have to have a .edu email account.

 

ya i downloaded that on my crappy internet. took ALL night lol.
but now it wants me to burn it to a cd.... but i dont have dvd cd type ones.
and realy dont want to have to go buy some.

 

Do you have a flash drive with a storage capacity larger than the image file?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=419296

If you already downloaded the student discount Win7, then why did you ask about it if you already knew about it?????

 

Idk.
I think its making me burn it since I'm going to be doing a clean install.
Cause how would something install itself if everything is whiped from the computer?

 

I'm sitting here trying to figure out where you are confused at.

If you do a complete new OS install, Windows installer will take all of your old files and put them in a folder labeled Windows.old. This includes the previous OS, and any files you might have laying about.

Since you haven't said anything about the recovery partition, I'm going to expand on this.

HP along with other major brands have started making a 10-20 gig partition on the HD of the notebook with all the factory software and sys files. They are doing this for two reasons: A. It cuts down their cost of having to send you a recovery disk. AND B. It saves you from having to keep track of said disk.

Now, as I said earlier, unless you specifically went in and erased what's in that partition, it IS there. (See pic)


Now, I never used this since it contains all the bloatware and other crap that I don't want/need. As far as I know, you should just be able to go in under system restore and tell it to go back to factory specs.

Even better, I'm spoon feeding you at this point.

Straight from HP's website on how to use that partition:

Recovering from the dedicated recovery partition (select
models only)
NOTE: If your computer includes an SSD, you may not have a recovery partition. You will not be able
to recover using this procedure. Recovery discs have been included for computers that do not have a
partition. Use these discs to recover your operating system and software.
On some models, you can perform a recovery from the partition on the hard drive from either the Start
button or f11. This restores the computer to it's factory condition.
To restore the system from the partition, follow these steps:
1. Access Recovery Manager in either of the following ways:
● Select Start > All Programs > Recovery Manager > Recovery Manager.
– or –
● Restart the computer and press f11 while the “Press <F11> for recovery” message is displayed
on the screen. Then select Recovery Manager.
Recovery Manager opens.
2. Click Advanced Options.
3. Click System recovery, and then click Next.
4. Follow the on-screen instructions.

Simple.


The only reason Windows makes you burn the image file is just that: It's an image file. It will only work once it has been mounted to a disk and burnt that way.

So, if you want win7, you have two options.
1. Go to Walmart or some other chain store and spend the $5.00 for a 5 pack of disks and burn the image file
2. Make a bootable flash drive via the link I gave you in a previous post.

 

Ahh Okay. I was going through System Restore and it just had dates that were this month.
I don't know if I want to do that now since I already downloaded W7.
And don't feel like downloading it all over since im on pretty much crappy internet and it took forever the first time..
And I thought I fixed my problem by buying a router today and everything for wifi since my internet connection doesn't seem to be working..
But when I get home. My step-dad says he doesn't want wifi since "it opens up for virus'"...
I really hate the dude...
So now I have to return it all and i'm stuck with more shatty connection...

 

And ps.
Thank you for all your help.

 

Well, first off, having a wireless router doesn't open you up to anymore virus risks than what a wired connection to the net will. Now, yea, they can become nice little gateways for people to log into the router and send stuff through your network, but a nice little password protection code will stop that.

Another thing, unless you all are already doing a network between comps in the house, putting a router on your ethernet connection will leave their supply alone. The only way any other PC in the house could get a virus from the router you just bought would be if they were connecting to your router.

As far as downloading win7 again, you don't need to. If you still have the image file on your PC then that's good enough. You can still open it up and burn it or copy it over to a flash drive and boot from that. Not a big deal.

If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't be doing a full recovery just yet anyways. There really isn't a benafit to doing it, and I assume since you are using the Verison broadband that it required some kind of disk that had drivers on it to make it work. You torch the drivers and can't find the disk then you are out of luck unless you have access to another PC with internet access in the house.

On another note, are you out of warranty on this laptop? If you aren't, just send it in and have that net card replaced.

If you don't have a warranty to fall back on, that card shouldn't be too much to replace.

 

Ya. That's what I told them. Just make a password and we'll be fine.
But yea...
And that was one of the reasons I didn't want to do a whipe just yet, because I would need disks for the Verizon internet.
But what was going to deal with it when I got wifi..but since that isn't happening. Idk.
And nope. Its out of warranty.. I sort of just want to get a new laptop.
Since my fan is sorta gone. Been fine for awhile. But still acts up every now and then. And my battery has been bad forever.

 

Still want to get this thing crossfiring but hey ho... Anyone worked out the best settings for NFS Shift or know where I can go to get them?

I have the HD3450 with 512MB and z82 2.2 dual core X64 ultra. (laptop cooler stops this thing overheating!)

When running max rez at 1280*800 Full screen: (I first set my desktop to 800*600 - seems to give better game framerates?!)

I seem to get the best with the following (up to 20fs in fraps)

NFS Shift Patch 2 installed (wow what a difference!)

D3Doverrider: triple buffering on vsync off

Catalyst Control Centre Settings (Mobility Modder applied):
CCC 9.11 (the beta one that allegedly has NFS - shift stuff in it? Can't wait for 9.12 which is suposed to make alot of improvements for the game!?)
CCC triple buffering
CCC Vsync off
CCC all settings on performance
CCC aa aplication managed (box)
CCC aaa application managed
CCC ai Advanced (stops stuttering and 5fps more which is a big difference at these low fps!)
CCC Adaptive AA off

in game settings:
windowed off
aa *2
aaa *2
vsyc off
car detail high
shadow off
track detail high
motion blur off
texture resolution high

When in 800*600 I can set things quite a bit higher and get about 25fps

Any help as I'm enjoying the game now the patch from EA has made it playable!

(By the way re the overheating thing I have taken this laptop to pieces (have photo's of 3450 and 3200 on motherboard) and removed the vent stickers which look like they block 50% of the airflow.)

 

Firstly anyone set up Windows 7 64 bit on the DV5z 1213em and noticed any performance improvement over vista 32bit as I'm thinking of getting it? My Vista has always been stable and fast, I must be one of the lucky one's or Windows Patches are finally doing their work!

Secondly the Miniport or whatever its called underneath near the southbridge chip, I understand I can install a "readyboost/superboost" type ram thing there to also improve performance. Anyone know if this is true, have you done it, is it worth it? ... I have 4GB of the HP Factory fitted Ram. I currently get 4.1 avg on Windows score which is held back by the HD3450, obviously, but everything else hits about 5...

Thirdly, anyone know if you can "un-solder" the HD3450 and put in a better GPU chip and if so what is the max the motherboard will take?

Fourthly I have the dual core AMD Turion Ultra 64 2.2Ghz... can I put in any faster chip i.e. Phenom II or is this motherboard maxed out.

Basically like most of us I always want more performance and even though I'd love to buy a balls to the wall laptop I can't afford it!

Thanks.

 

Turion Ultra is using socket S1g2.

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Turion X2 Ultra ZM-82 - TMZM82DAM23GG.html

Turion II (the new ones that just got out) are Socket S1g3

Desktop processors are different....no luck

You're out of lucky dude.

I'm posing here, because my DV6z has the same heat production issues as you guys DV5z (same Turion Ultra furnace)

 

Thanks for the info. So as I see it I could upgrade to a ZM-88 but probably isn't really worth it as HD3450 is bottleneck in the system?

 

Pomme, I have the 64bit version, and after a month of ownership, I threw Vista Ultimate on there. As soon as I got my hands on a Win7 Ultimate copy, I through it on. One of the best upgrades you can do to this laptop. Win7 actually allows the notebook to run a little cooler- not much, but it is noticeable.

As far as upgrades, Just max the ram out if you hadn't already and be prepared for it to be good for nothing more than a web surfer in a few years. It sucks, I know, but it is reality. Hell, every time I've bought the best of the best of the best in a PC, it was outdated as soon as I walked out the store. Part of the reason I build my own towers now.

 

So... I have decided that I'm going to buy a new laptop lol.
This one is just UGH to me now.
With the fan..the battery..it doesn't even get to fully charged while I have it plugged in while I'm on it. Sad...
I'm thinking of getting a Sony FW series. Anyone know if those are good?

 

OK thanks Larmie I'll go and get windows7!

 

my dv5z just told me that i should replace my battery. the damn thing gets so hot and i've read others have had the same issue. it's been slightly more than a year. damn HP. suggestions on what i should do here? just get new battery? feels like it will just fail on me again because of the poor heating management

 

What cooling solution do you have in place? Are you using a notebook cooler or do you just leave the notebook flat on a table? My battery is never hot to the touch since I use a cooler with my dv5z. More than a year after I got my dv5z now and the battery wear is still less than 10% so heat definitely kills lithium batteries.

 

i used a belkin laptop stand on top of my lap. I've pretty much replaced using the HP with an asus that runs much cooler. now i'm left with this spare HP laptop that i'm wondering what to do with.

 

Huge temp drop!

WOW! I saw a guy mention this a while back in this forum but I never had the guts to do it. But, I was getting so fed up with the heat thing! I was getting 100degrees, even saw 103degrees celcius (on speedfan) the otherday (whilst alt tabbing out of nfs-shift) and had had enough. This was whilst on a dual 120mm laptop cooler! Major problems. Kept shutting down on me and gameplay was starting to jitter.

I have taken the laptop apart before and decided to do it again but this time I have replaced the crappy thermal pads and splat/dollop /mess of thermal paste on processor from mfrg (real ugly & sloppy work) to thermal paste (Zalman Super Thermal grease (couldn't get arctic silver) and wow what a difference! YEEEEHAAAA! On high performance whilst I write this and running amd overdrive's benchmark my temps are 66 & 69. massive drop of 20-30degrees C! On idle now they are sitting at around 50-55dgs C! Before temps sat at 75-80deg C. Woohoo! This is with the notebook cooler off which should bring it down by another 5degs at least!

On power saver and idle temps quickly dropped to 48 (can't be bothered to see how low it goes just happy it's cooler) and I saw my first ever green tick in speedfan (have checked these temps in overdrive and readings are the same).

Guys all I can say is if you haven't done it. DO IT, JUST DO IT. And if you can't do it take your laptop to a man who can.

A very happy (after 9 months of ownership) dv5-1213em owner. Question, why am I having to do this as a consumer of an off the shelf mass produced laptop from an allegedly sound manufacturer. (still gutted about puma platform not offering full potential!)

BTW anyone know if the new AMD Quad Core Mobile chips are backward compatible with the S1 socket we have?

Yours,

Currently on 53degrees on high performance!

 

mistake post pls delete

 

Right, now my temps are OK as I'm an idiot and don't know when to quit I've managed to work out how to overclock the GPU (allegedly better gaming performance or by under-clocking better battery life)and under-volt the CPU (allegedly cooler running & better battery life) by reading these forums - so all honors go to these guys, I'm merely copying what they have done:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=4763081#post4763081

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=323153

Thing is all I'm doing is equivalent to cut and paste in word as I really don't know what I'm doing and expect things to blow up any minute so anyone out there a Guru who can give us the ultimate settings! Or should I steer clear of this!

FYI this is what I've done to make it all work

Re overclock GPU:

1) Completely uninstalled CCC 9.12

2) used mobility modder to mod ccc 8.9

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/modtool.php

3) Installed CCC 8.9 (I had to and you allegedly have to do this so you can fiddle with the clocks - read forums above) from here:

http://fs5.filehippo.com/6303/80c39017be974910a34c7e8904c053bb/8-9_vista32_dd_ccc_wdm_enu_68905.exe

4) Installed AMD GPU Clock Tool

http://194.71.11.69/pub/games/PC/guru3d/ati/amdgpuclocktool-9.8-[Guru3D.com].msi


I can now adjust the memory & GPU clock MHz using AMD GPU Clock tool and it defo changes as GPUZ shows the change and 3d mark 05 runs a lot faster framerates... (until it crashes as I have no idea how little to increase the frequencies!) I know I know.... HD3450 is "welded" to MOBO so I can cook the whole board... that's why I'm asking for help!

Re CPU undervolt.

1) Downloaded Griffin Control service and set up everything as they said.

http://amd.goexchange.de/GriffinControlDialog32bit.exe

http://amd.goexchange.de/GriffinControlService_32bit.exe

http://amd.goexchange.de/files--config,DLL,sys,help.zip

2) Now undervolt both CPU's from 1.075 to 1.05v when on high performance settings by moving the Voltage Identifier slider from 38 to 40.

Warning again I read somewhere this can really screw things up and only to slide that slider to that position if you don't know what your doing... which I don't.

So can someone who knows all about this stuff have a play and give us some good "safe" settings so that we can squeeze the some more out of this laptop.

Again a few people on this forum went off and bought another laptop but I can't afford to do that!

Pls help... or tell me I should give up!