*HP dv6z AMD Llano (6XXX series) Owners Lounge*

Any way to reduce POST time? Just got my Samsung 830 and I want to reduce boot times as much as possible.

 

12.7 beta still getting the unplug power and freeze problem.

Edit:

Ok try uninstalled HDMI driver and CCC , working fine now, so it is either HDMI or the new ccc

ok, somehow my dv6 hate the 12.6 up ccc

 

a few things you can try R3,

1. go to your services one by one. Disable those not needed, for the rest, examine the ones that start automatically and those that are not critical to you at boot, change their start from automatic, to either delayed or manual as required. Also, take a close look at any mfg support proggies you have running, especially crap from Dell, Hp, etc. A lot of this is 'bloatware' tho advertised as customer support software from the mfg, but in actuality it is predominately data mining crap to find out what you're doing, and how they can market that info to make more money off their customers.

2. One of the most time consuming things that occurs during boot is inet connection and the unbelievable amount of bullchit data transfers that occur as your windows system, browsers, "free" proggies etc. all notify the world of the fact that you are now on line, what op system you are using, which ip, what programs you have installed, what are running, and whether you have all the latest advertising, marketing, tracking and general data mining *stuff* installed.

to combat all of this there are several things you can do.
1. don't boot with the modem enabled.
2. go to your startup config and disable, delay, set to manual etc. all the crap you don't really need running at boot.
3. go thru each of your browsers, disable/remove as many cookies/trackers etc. as you can. In this regard note that if you run flash, it stores cookies and equivalents in a different location from that normally expected of your browser. go on line, read about it, and block/disable as many as you are comfortable with.


a few other things to consider

you might try a dual boot install with one of the minimalist linux flavors for those times you want to just boot up fast, quick check news, email, messages etc.. If you haven't looked at linux for a while, you'll be amazed at how much progress has been made, and the incredible number of solid, stable, and user friendly AND FREE distributions there are out there. You can also do it without disturbing your present installs. For instance, I have a memstick with a full installation of TAILS on it, which i can plug into pretty much any notebook, desktop, whatever, and boot in a few seconds, hand have a fairly decently secured and relatively anonymous web presence for surfing, emails etc. While not totally secured from govt/corporate snooping, (NOTHING is *secure* from monitoring by a determined and knowledgeable miscreant, whether govt sponsored or not, and whomever says otherwise is siimply mis informed, incompetent and or lying thru his/her teeth), tails is a worthy step up. You might also look at Liberte etc., puppy linux etc. Check out "Distrowatch" if this suggestion rings any bells with you.

Lastly, you can fool with the settings on your antivirus flavor, windows update configuration, and turn off anything you can start up manually when you need it, and leave it off and dormant when you don't.

All of the foregoing can combine to substantially reduce your boot time.

oh, and you *could* go back to XP heheh.

seer

 

what is this corruption you are talking about ?

weird, I don't get the unplug freeze problem, but I'm also running very old hdmi drivers from 12.1. I never updated the hdmi drivers. But it's good you may have found a workaround.

 

there is some horizontal tearing in madvr, there is a post in guru3d. It doesnt matter much if you dun use madvr for watching video.

Seem to find the cause for the freezing when switch battery/AC vice versa on 12.6 up ccc. let me test once more.

should be related to the CPU power setting , Instead of 100% freezing , become like 50%(after drag the range to 800-1400 instead of 2200), probably conflict with oc pstate or k10stat?

No clue, gonna see if 12.4 ccc works. (12.1 ccc is too old to pair with the driver, missing all the video/game options)

Edit:
12.4 seem to dun have the problem, and the menu for cpu power and overdrive is not there for 12.4

Maybe I did a overdrive once when installed windows and uninstaller didnt get rid of that? Meh, not goona waste my time and beta test for amd zzz.

 

i'm running 12.7 ccc with 12.7 display driver.
no unplug freeze

in the past though, ccc was responsible for fixed mode switching reboot hang.
So CCC is definitely the cause for some problems.
I worked around that problem by installing 12.4 ccc with 12.2 display driver.

 

I've looked it up and the new DV6z-7000 series laptop's backlit keyboard has part number 682081-001, it appears to have the same dimension as the current one we have in the DV6z-6000 series, however it has a separate backlight cable that plugs into the backlight ZIF connector on the motherboard, so it's most likely a no go for people who want to upgrade.

 

Thanks, but I was looking to reduce POST time (i.e. the time before windows starts loading, when the HP logo pops up.) I have a clean install of windows and I've already optimized it. I've looked through the BIOS, but I was hoping that there would be some other way to disable some of the startup checks

 

HT, I saw B156HW01 V.7 is on clearance for $95 now and really thinking about upgrade, if I do which HD cable should I purchase?

 

LOL, sorry R3 wasn't paying close enough attention
Only way I know to change the "POST" duration is to change your bios entries to eliminate some of the internal testing being performed. I'm not aware of anyone having released to the net a streamlined bios but there may be one out there. Perhaps you can get one of the bios mod guys to fix you up with one. You can copy whichever bios you're using and send it to them for a 'clean up". Just so you know, this example for an old Hp vectra, will give you a rough idea of what is going on in a std hp post:

HP BIOS Post Procedures:

CPU Registers in CPU tested with data patterns, error flags are set, verified and reset
ROM BIOS Checksum Checksums are performed on high and low BIOS chips
PIC Test Test timer channels 0-2 then the memory refresh signal. Initialize timer if tests are passed. Check the 8254 chip
64K Test Walking bit and address collision tests are performed on the first 64K of memory. Check for a bad memory chip or address line
Cache Controller The the CPU cache controller and memory
Video Adapter Initialize the video adapter. If EGA.VGA is present, wait for the adapter to finish internal diagnostics. Check for adapter or improper setup if a failure occurs
DMA Test Bit patterns written to all DMA controller registers, including page registers, and verifies the patterns written. If the tests pass the registers are reset and the controller initialized
PIC Test Test mask register of master and slave interrupt controllers. Generate interrupt and monitor CPU to test success. Failure is normally down to the PIC but the interrupt test uses the BIOS clock (interrupt) and the RTC, so check those also
Keyboard Controller Perform several tests on the 8042 keyboard controller then send a series of interrupt request commands via the 8259 PIC
HP-HIL Test Test the HP-HIL (Hardware Interrupt Level) controller with data patterns and verify it
CMOS Test Perform a checksum on the standard and extended CMOS RAM area. Perform a register test and check byte 0D to determine power status. Check the CMOS extended CMOS RAM or battery respectively if a failure occurs
Manufacturing Loop Search for diagnostic tool used in manufacturing and run predetermined tests if found. Otherwise continue POST
Base Memory Test Test RAM between 64K and 640K with several pattern test. The bit failure and bank can be determined by the displayed hex code
Extended Memory Test Test extended memory found. Bank and failing bit displayed by the hex code
RTC Test Test the RTC portion of the CMOS chip
Keyboard Controller Test keyboard controller. Initialize keyboard if no errors found
Floppy Disk Test and initialize floppy controllers and drives found. Check specific errors with the displayed hex code. Check for correct setup or defective CMOS chip or defective battery
Math Coprocessor Test NPU registers and interrupt request functions
CPU Clock Test Test interface between CPU and system at different speeds. Check for incorrect clock setting for system peripherals or a bad CPU or clock generator chip
Serial and Parallel Test Test and initialize serial and parallel ports. Failure here will not halt the POST. The Vectra RS BIOS does not test the parallel port
Boot Initialize the BIOS vector table, standard and extended CMOS data areas and any adapter ROM's present. Then call Int 19 boot loader and give control to it. Failures past this point usually point to the hard drive or corrupt bootloader code
Return to Top

As you can see, there's lots to play with if you can get to them.

seer

 

damn that's a shame but it was expected oh well at least we got a backlit trackpad

 

I downloaded and installed catalyst 12.6, only to discover that it doesn't update the driver for the integrated graphics, causing many problems. Has anyone else seen this or have any suguestions?

 

Use the 12.7 beta. That's what I did. The 12.6 whql doesn't support switchable graphics for some reason.

 

I can't even install 12.6, it downloads and start the upgrade, then during the installation the screen flicks and went blank (still has backlight), waited about an hour and had to hard reset the machine. Then it won't show any image when booting into Windows (can hear logon music), so I had to go into safe mode and restore windows. Now I'm gonna give 12.7 beta a try.

 

I had the same thing.Screen went black but i couldnt boot anything and i had to make an boot disck to repair my windows.Then i intalled it again and it installed to the end but it shows the catalyst version number 12.1 and the video driver is an early one im thinking of trying 12.7 tonight...if i have time,hopefully it wont freeze on me.

 

I'm thinking about getting the dvz-7000. Anyone think it can last a good 4 years or should i get a sony?

 

You could be said either ASUS or thinkpad and I would really think you are right but no, HPs and Sonys, the former not so shiny as the later, never the less I think with proper care any laptop can properly last way longer.

 

If you want to get an HP definitely get an extended warranty. Everybody I know with a dv6 has had problems with the fan within a year of purchase.

 

true that. all my laptops have lasted years with care. I have an 8 year old dell still working. 3 year old msi.

proper care = mainly cleaning out the heatsink regularly, and not dropping the laptop with your butterfingers.

but sonys are so overrated and overpriced.

 

My past laptop (Inspiron 1501) lasted 6 years , in the end it was sold to somebody that wanted a reliable XP machine for automation purposes, that thing was quite nice to use and even ran Win7 x64 (had 4gb ram) with aero enabled and no lag. It didn't ran to much games but nonetheless it was a great (*first*) laptop for me.

 

I already have a year with my laptop by the way, it was almost the very first batch of the dv6 with llano processors. Fan is running quiet and steady or FAST like hell and steady, no problems at all with it.

(It's a Sunon as every other manufacturer of laptops with very rare exceptions)

 

yeah. fan is sealed ball bearing.

those who have fan failure didn't clean out their fan. Probably have junk in it, causing it to seize up

 

huh, just notice one thing kind of funny today, the fan seem to work less if the notebook is tilt too much ~~ I use a ~1.5" plastic under the battery and the cpu get hotter than just laying flat.

edit 60s C just browsing grr, I need a AC.

 

Getting the "Catalyst Control Centre: Host application has stopped working" error message in my dv6z llano (dv6z-6135dx with a8-3530mx and 6750m and 1080p, one of the initial models).

Any idea of how to fix that? Device manager does show the 6620g and the 6750m, but I can't seem to open up the Catalyst settings. Can adjust the resolution through windows. Not really stressing the system out though - all I do is play diablo II over and over, browse the internet, and do the occasional word document.

I do have a 120gb ocz agility 3 coming in (a $75/$65 after rebate deal), so I am thinking what I could do is (re)back up my files to an external drive and then install the ssd and use the windows 8 system restore dvd that came with my order (it was free of charge at that time). But it doesn't seem necessary for what I use the laptop for.

 

A friend I know with a different model DV6Z (metal finish like most of you guys) had his fan die on him a few months ago... however mine still seems to be going along fine ... Only thing is I broke the "Z" key -_- lol. At least its like a 4 dollar fix. (and entirely my fault)

New sunon fans on ebay are like 10 bucks too!

 

It costs $4 to buy a key cap ?

 

sounds about right after a quick check on google. at least he doesn't have to replace the entire keyboard. then again, those were cheaper per key.

 

Yeah I was considering buying an Arabic keyboard for 18 bucks (it is a lot cheaper lol) but naaaah.. might as well just buy the single key+rubber nub+hinge.

 

hehe, but you need to factor in labor cost.

 

I had that error message before after failed 12.4 ccc update, what version of CCC are you running?

 

Fresh reinstall( yet again , new windows every 2 month, I hate this machine grr)
12.6 sb
12.7b ccc

1.HDMI bug still exist (Using extend if that matters, gonna test more)
2.AC/Battery freeze is definitely CPU OC'd related, I believe if you load pstate after ccc start, It get cranky.
3.My dgpu opengl seem fine with minimal software installed, after I load my usual stuff get the weired thing in opengl again (sign)

 

I actually did a fresh install too, with 12.7b the HDMI bug was due a bad HDMI driver, just remove that and install other from another version and you will be fine.

12.6 beta is actually quite nice, so I installed that and 12.6 sb

No problems with OC, most of the problems with OC had to do with very high frequency values and lower voltages, when I changed profile sometimes this was too sudden and my laptop froze... nonetheless that was long, long time ago, I don't have those problems with my current voltage values.

If the AMD Catalyst driver installation fails... one is doomed, 12.7b crashed with me because I had my HDMI port connected to the tv and my laptop froze, had to restart just to discover everything started very slow... had to reinstall windows and the problem went away instantly.

 

Also brought the FHD cable (which should be shipped to me yesterday, probably my bro hiding it) and order the v7 FHD screen today. Hopefully get it swaped WED.

I had did around 5+ windows reinstall on this machine..(brought in NOV) now I can get my self back to normal workflow within 2 hours counting from plugging in Windows USB lol

 

what mod are you doing ???

what's so good about this v7 fhd?

 

I'm also in the process of receiving my cable but the screen will have to wait...

 

Not really a mod, just switch the cable and screen. the b156hw01 v7 is the dell XPS one I believe 95% NTSC glossy. I have my external matte for paperwork and long time staring.

Many people here did it before I think.

 

laptopscreen.com ship to euro aswell, v4 is around 85 USD now.

I really should remind myself about tution I not yet paid for next semester

 

All kind of brands fit to our HPs? i was going for the screen LP156WF1(TL)(F3)... but I don't know if there are other better 1080p options available for this laptop...

 

I dun think brand matters, it is the placement of the connector that should matters. The dv6t display thread have many people go for the b156hw01 v4 matteand v7glossy (which should be the best possible TN panels out there)

I have a chi mei in my $100 ebay semibrick dv6z. My 6135dx have a samsung.

 

Sad to wait until the end of the month for buying an screen, but oh well is well worth of the effort.

 

I don't really think I will be keeping this laptop long enough to warrant the 1080p screen upgrade.

Screen prices have gone up too. The LP156WF1(TL)(F3) used to be 69.99 and now it is 83.19. It would have been more economical to do the upgrade a few months ago. :S

 

Not sure, been trying to figure it out. Can't open CCC, and I want to say 12.4, but I am not sure.

I am probably doing a reinstall in a few weeks, once my ssd shows up. Figure I'll be able to do a minimal install from reinstall DVD and follow the instructions from there. Just need to figure out the best way to transfer certain game files and then I'll just do a reinstall from there, and maybe do some overclocking as well.

 

Just picked up a few more games. Everything is great in my little world. 12.1 or 12.1a I believe, mayhaps I shall attempt another update when I have enough time.

One of my friends checked in last week. He apparently lost his job and got into Best Buy for now. Says the m6-1035dx has been selling like crazy and is now back-ordered as of the weekend. Cheap/backlit/Diablo 3 seems to have resulted in a critical mass of buzz among the local college-bound youth. Sure, you can get more for the money online...but he won't chase away customers and it seems like many parents still view BB as a go-to for electronics.

 

would love to see someone do a speaker mod , would be a nice upgrade when im not plugged into my system. something like this
Laptop speaker replacement - Samsung R610 - YouTube

 

I would really like to put a buffer on my laptop but I haven't found a Way to do it...

 

got my 1080p in, the black is as black as the brezel !

hmm All black screen look so black it is like shut off ~~

Edit: But now have 2 768p screen gathering dust under my bed. NEED FIX OLD dv6 xD

 

Tried a calibration with my $20 dollar DTP 94 off ebay, result is meh with green hues. Wide gamut is 2 much for it ~~ 100% sRGB, 9x%aRGB confirmed though

Edit: all the sager profile = fail. Time to find a cheap colormunki....

 

I seriously considered this upgrade before dismissing it, for a couple of different reasons, but nothing really to do with cost.

What was most disappointing was the poor quality of the stock screen. Online calculators and experts will tell you that, at this resolution and screen size, there is relatively nothing to be gained by this upgrade...but that doesn't take into account quality of picture, viewing angle, color, etc.

However...most of the time, my computer is hooked up to my HDTV, bypassing the laptop screen. So...I couldn't use screen quality as a justification.

Second of all considerations was ease of upgrade. WHY HP's vendor decided to go with a combination of screen and cable that would require replacement of both to upgrade (without making this clear to people). A cable is extra expense, yes, but the replacement of the cable is far more difficult than popping a screen out and in. (Not difficult for experts, and I AM one...but my plate is full, and building/modifying is no longer a satisfying hobby for me.)

So...I just couldn't justify the expense/time/trouble for an upgrade that really wouldn't give me any more bang for my buck...especially after reviewing some screenshots from Arkham City at both resolutions and admitting to myself that, if I was PLAYING the game, I'd probably notice no diff whatsoever because you're not paying attn to minute visual details while playing an action game.

So, here's what I opted for as far as possible stock performance mods. (You guys that go nuts with the Dremel are to be admired...LOTS of good mods...but I hate doing anything that's going to NOTICEABLY void my warranty!)

HP DV6-6135dx

8GB DDR3-1600 G Skill CL9 RAM (upgraded from 1333 due to Wingnut's results...which results in a CL8 @ 1333 speeds)

Bigfoot Killer N dual-band wireless card (which requires a BIOS mod to incorporate)

120GB SSD, SATA III, replaces original HD

Replacement HD caddy for the optical drive bay (for 60GB SATA II SSD leftover from old setup)

External enclosure for the Blu-Ray drive - (Cheap, was a USB 2.0 interrface, but I later ripped out the interface and modded the case to accept miniSATA connector. Easy, solid, and it looks great.)

USB 3.0 to eSATA active cable (necessary because the dv6 doesn't have an eSATA port)

USB3.0 to miniSATA active cable for external optical drive

Wireless mouse and dongle for USB 2.0 (when using laptop)

Wireless mouse, keyboard and dongle for USB 2.0 (for HDTV and HTPC remote use)

2TB External eSATA/USB 2.0 HDD - all backup, video, audio, and storage

Notes:

So, essentially, all four my external USB ports are full. If I need more, I can get a hub later if I need one...but that's doubtful.

Moving the optical drive up from USB 2.0 to USB 3.0 interface was a HUGE improvement in BD playback, though it should not have been, since optical is SATA I speed (though the laptop connector for the optical bay is SATA II). I blame the cheap USB 2.0 interface that came with the external enclosure...that gave me great pleasure to toss in the trash.

USB 3.0 still goes up and down a bit (according to the seemingly random reconnection to the external HD that pops up on screen occasionally), but that's far better than getting USB 2.0 speeds on an external drive capable of SATA II. I can't express my satisfaction with the USB 3.0 interface cables enough. (And, when you think about it, $25 for an active cable beats the price of a new drive plus passive cable, or even what a good USB 3.0 enclosure for the old HD would cost.)

On the road in the hotel, I disable the wireless and use the ethernet service provided by the hotel. Often, I have found, the slowest wires are faster than the fastest wireless...besides, with everyone going wireless these days, I am finding a lot more bandwidth available on the hotel wired ethernet. (Sure...I can't move the laptop to the bed when it's tethered by an ethernet cable, but the TV interface with remote keyboard and mouse makes moving the laptop anywhere unnecessary, and with the HDTV screen size and remote full keyboard and mouse, actually makes it all much easier to use for productivity as well. I'm 6'2", 200lbs, and my hands aren't delicate.)

If anyone wants links to my purchased external equipment, just ask.

 

For gaming, probably not worth it, but viewing photo and video is huge difference. I wouldn't do the upgrade if people had not find a cheap cable and the b156hw01 v4.v7 is available. Those v4/v7 used to cost 150+ a pop( and you need to find from forum member or pray you get the exact model). Now can easy get for ~100.\

Edit: I use my laptop screen as digital photo frame /video screen when hook up to external hence i pick gloss.

 

Yeah, but the main difference is in the QUALITY of the picture, not the increased resolution. I have seen both screens side-by-side, and there's a HUGE difference in quality and viewing angle...but resolution looks pretty much the same until you REALLY stare at it. (I was thinking about getting a cheap colormunki just for this reason. Can improve color and contrast at least, even if resolution and viewing angle can't be changed...for free.)

Glad you're happy with yours, however...it's just not a performance upgrade(As a matter of fact, it'll lower video performance at native resolution), which is all I care about, and how to get performance for the least amount of money.

The way I use my laptop, my laptop screen and keyboard are usually really nothing but a system console anyway.