Modding - dv6t/dv7t Quad Edition (2011)

It's good to hear that you are actively working on this. Can I ask how much you paid for the screen?
As far as the bezel goes...you have to be really steady and patient. I broke the "thingies" that hold the corners on, but its not that bad. It looks normal and only has a little wiggle. The real hard part is the bottom on the bezel. I haven't found a technique to take it off; you just have to wiggle and play with it. When you put it back on, you should start with the bottom first. One side of the bottom it loose, but it still looks fine.

Good Luck


@Beradon: Good work, too bad we couldn't get the backlite working. Do you think you can take off the lite panel and put it on the standers keyboard?

 

Damn speedking, I thought u managed to get it off without breaking the "thingies." Also what do you mean that you haven't managed to take of the bottom of the bezel? Did you not manage to remove the whole thing like i thought you did?

Looks like I may have to try the long way, which is to take the whole thing apart, per the manual. I'm wondering if there are any warranty tabs in there. Can someone answer that question?

Also, even if I get cold feet, these things are not being produced anymore, and the next batch from AUO is all 60% gamut, so I can resell it very easily.

 

NoNoNo listen:
You will have to take off the bezel the same way either way. The thing is secured well, so it is tricky to get off. Removing the bezel wont be any easier with everything removed. The only thing that may be easier is the swapping of screens part. The first time I got it off fine, but the second time I took it off I was a little less gentle. Trust me, you wont notice it is borken. Anyone would thing it was just loose.
I said that I didn't find a repeatable technique to remove the bottom of the bezel. I got it off, but it required a little bit of "playing." I'm sure you will be able to get it off fine.
Review this old post for what I did.

 

First, I will not be OK with anything being loose. Nevertheless, I still think your method may work. Basically, as we mentioned before, jumping straight to page 96 on the manual seems fine. My only issue is how to get off the bezel without breaking the thingies. So, page 96 says to "flex" the inside edges. What the heck does that mean? Also, will I be able to "flex" the bottom edge since its attached to the base?

We shall see. BTW, those pics are freaking awesome. Hopefully that sticker can be removed w/o HP noticing if it needs warranty work one day.

 

This is what I did:
I dug my nail under the inside rim of the bezel on the top and 2 sides. I pried up until I heard the adhesive pop up. After that the top and sides should snap off pretty easily. Now the hard part (for me), the bottom: I gently twisted the bezel until the bottom loosened. The fact that it is next to the base does not affect it all, or at least I'm pretty sure.
When are you expecting to get the screen/be able to do this?
Hope this works and good luck.

 

1) There was adhesive?

2) Will it all snap back in and be snug w/o reapplying adhesive?

3) I'm scared, hold me.

Should be getting the screen in 4 biz days, assuming to customs delays.

 

I was talkin about that in the owners thread as well. I've considered it but I dont wanna break my known working original keyboard. The ENVY17 keyboard is currently on ebay, but if it doesnt sell I might try to find a replacement standard keyboard for this laptop and try it with that one. I'd have to pry off all of the keys on the ENVY17 keyboard and transfer them over (the letters/numbers keys on the backlit keyboard are semitransparent, ours are not). I've tried it, they do come off in a somewhat scary fashion, but they pop right back on quite easily. I did it to 5 or 6 keys to see if I was lucky/stupid or if that's how it was supposed to work..

 

This might be an obvious question, but: I have the 6091NR, so if this works for you it should work for me, right?

That's too bad. I would rather have had this work than the new screen. Oh well.

 

Can anyone tell me where to buy a standard keyboard for the dv7tqe 6100? The ebay listing is almost over and it hasnt sold so that's my next step anyways.

 

Well, from what I understand, that will have to do with the connector. I will gladly take a look at it while I have it open. Tell me what I should be on the lookout for.

Also, so the adhesive is sticky, I'm guessing?

 

Damn DHL is fast, I got my screen from Taiwan within 2 days of when it was shipped.

So, I just received my B156HW01 v.7. I will be giving the installation a crack tonight. If you have any requests for information now is the time to make them, and during the process I will note what you want noted.

 

That's great to hear. Pictures are definitely good if you can. Also can you take a picture/write down the serial number on the cable.

Here is my cable for comparison:



I wish you the best of luck and I'm sure you will do fine.

 

OK, so I did it. The screen is the craziest thing I have ever seen. Colors so vibrant and warm, it feels like the screen is giving my eyes a hug. Only problem though is that there is one dead pixel. It doesn't annoy me all that much, but I wish it weren't there. Thoughts?

Also, I was as careful as humanly possible and I still broke some of the notches. Its a little loose in the upper right corner, but nothing a little rubber cement won't fix. The thing that annoys me the most is the dead pixel. Is that a big deal?

Will post pictures later when someone tells me how.

 

Good job !!!

Look at the control panel above a new post and click insert image looks like a small mountain on a yellow background

There's a difference between a stuck pixel and a dead pixel. Dead pixels cannot be recovered, They are usually a light green-blue colour. Stuck pixels are black.
if you google this there are some fixes that work.

 

Great to Hear!!!

I post pictures by uploading to photobucket. After uploading you can share by copying an image code that you can paste here.

Have you tried gaming or anything that is graphics intensive? I heard that people on some other system were able to change the screen but it caused glitches do to the cable. Lets hope everything is good

Can you tell us where you got the screen from?

 

Did you do a full disassembley or just the monitor face?

 

So, it is a genuine dead pixel. But it is only one. They just offered to send me a new one, or give me 15% off. I really don't want to reinstall another monitor, it was like defusing a bomb in terms of the nerves and I'm not totally crazy about the possibility of breaking more notches. Before I tell anyone where I got it, I need to know if ya'll think its worth it to return and go through the hassle because of one dead pixel.

Edit: I did just the monitor face.

Edit: Speed king: I was going from 1080p to 1080p. I have the 6100 already. I just wanted 95% gamut and 270 nits brightness, so there is no issues with gaming cuz screen was fully compatible. But let me tell you, I never could have imagined the differene I am seeing, it is night an day. Colors are SO vibrant!

 

can you post a screen shot so we can see where the dead pixel is? press prtsc then alt v to save then upload photo
if is not that visibale in the screenshot save to paint then highlight with an arrow

 

Congratulations on the installation. I bet it was nerve-racking! As far as returning it goes, I would say no. To put it in perspective, you still have 2,073,599 working pixels.

 

Pixels are physical, not software, a dead pixel wont be visible in a screenshot, he'd need to take a picture with a camera.

I'd love to see the final installed product also

 

I am pretty sure a screen shot will show the pixel as I have seen it before
I could be wrong but do not think I am

 

I was hoping that it was 720p to 1080p
maybe the cables will be the same? (hope not too high)

 

Screen shot won't capture it ya'll. Will have to get pictures up tomorrow, getting late. More people comment on the dead pixel. Is it a deal breaker? Beradon, speed king, all ya'll, respond

 

Exchange or not, hmm...
I think that all depends on how difficult/intense it was for you. One a scale of 1 to 10, if it was higher than 6, its not worth it. Is the pixel near the center or is it very bothersome? If not, I would take the nice 15% off.

 

I've sent back more than one monitor and a couple of laptops over the years over dead pixels, but mostly because I knew where they were and it was in my field of view most of the time. If its on the edge or in the corner I wouldnt be terribly concerned, but if its eye-level mid-screen then I'd probably go insane. My last monitor had a dead pixel right where the border of the taskbar was so I couldnt see it most of the time, so I didnt bother with replacing it (was out of warranty before I even noticed it).

Many monitor makers have a no dead pixel policy up to 30 days or so (sometimes lifetime), so even if you cant get the seller to replace it for you, you might be able to get the manufacturer to do something about it.

Second thought: Is it truly 'dead' or is it just stuck? There are a number of methods out there on 'unsticking' a stuck pixel. Just google it. I've also done these and they do work, but they require patience.

I've never sent back TVs that I knew had dead pixels. My Samsung LCD has a few, but you cant see them when not at point blank range, and my Mitsubishi DLP tv has 2 mirrors that arent functioning (essentially looks like dead pixels), again, not worried about it because if you arent licking the tv you cant see them.

 

I have the sec4251 (1366x768) screen and i want to update to a full hd, i see you guys mention the B156HW01 V7, it's plug and play? I asked to a ebay seller if that screen was compatible with my laptop and he asked what's the original screen, then i replied and he sayd that's not compatible..

 

Uch, I just noticed that the screen also bleeds a ton of light into the bottom left corner, from both the right part of the bottom and the bottom part of the right. CS at this company was so nice and guaranteed me no dead pixels and all this crap. It wouldn't be such a big deal to return the screen if I wasn't almost positive that I'd break more notches on the bezel taking the freaking screen out. I don't know what to do. Really really annoyed.

 

Congratulation on your new screen, you finally did it

Regarding the array light, i remember having the same thing in my screen, but they are gone now, and if the dead pixel is really annoying, then the best advice is to replace your screen, hence you already did the assembling once, the second time will be much easier, if you are hesitated why don't you ask for a technician do it for you, that way you will be in the safe side.

 

Where on the screen is the dead pixel? I mean the screen is the one thing you use every single second you are using the laptop =/

 

OK, so the backlight bleed really isnt that bad in the end. Its only really there if you the screen isn't angled quite right. The pixel is off to the left, and I never even notice it unless the screen is solid black. Great screen, nothing in life is perfect. Happy enough camper. thanks for the support ya'll

 

Good choice.
As far as the bleeding goes...I heard countless stories about people complaining about new iPhones/iPods/iPads having bleeding for the first few days. This happens because an adhesive (or something) is not fully dried yet. If this is the case for you, then it should go away in about a week.
Again Congrats

 

Could be psychological but the bleeding seems to be going down a bit already. Even though this screen is not new (ie, it was prob manufactured several months ago) perhaps these screen needed to warm up or something.

PS speedking, I took a bunch of picks and I can't believe it but I forgot to take the one pick you asked me to take.

To all who want the screen, I got it from Brinvo. They have a website and an ebay store. Eventhough my screen was a bit not perfect, there customer service is really good. They are in Taiwan, which is why they have access to these screens. Unfortunately, the only V7's they have left have a dead pixel or two (told to me by CS) which is not enough to cause it to be defective, but also not really a big deal. I personally would shop with them again.

 

Do you needed any other cable to link the display?

 

I've got the I already had the 1080p 6100, so no.

 

I have the sec4251 (1366x768), don´t you know if i purchase that 1080p i'll need other cable?

 

Yes, we will need a new cable to upgrade the 720p screen to the 1080p screen.

 

Do you know what cable is or where can i buy it? Thanks

 

We are assuming that the cable from the DV6-61XX line will work, but no one knows how to get a hold of one. HP will probably sell replacements but charge like $30+ for it.

 

Does anyone know which 1080p screen is being shipped on the latest Dv7's and is anyone else thinking of changing up from the 900 res screen. As I understand it the original cable should work and I think a new screen would just be a straight swap. Maybe wrong but any comments would be appreciated. The screen I have is the AUO 139E which could be better. I should add I like the rest of the machine.

 

Guys, I looked through the bios mod website and couldn't find a request for the dv6t-6100.
Could someone with the new model please go to the following link and provide me with the RW-Everything report, I can then submit it. If you can, please confirm its SLIC 2.1 as well.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...xxx-series-owners-lounge-640.html#post7615049

 

has anyone opened up their dv7 with the 720p screen? does it have the dual band lvds cable thats compatible with the 1080p?

anyone know the exact model number of the 1080p screen for the dv7s?

id really like to replace my 720 for the 1080 but i want to make sure its a completely compatible and easy replacement.

 

Has anybody torn apart the display yet?
I wonder how easy it is to tear apart so we can put some transparency paper in front of the logo on the front to make the logo different colors.
I've seen it done with Macbooks.

 

Hi Veets
I was looking at the same thing for my dv7 which has a 900 res screen not a 720? My understanding is that the cable on the 900 res dv7's is 2 channel lvds which I believe is compatible with the 1080p screen. The actual screen on my machine is auo b173hw01 v.3 . If you read this thread:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/del...l-swapping-xps-17-l701x-screen-thread-74.html

it would seem the screen to go for is b173hw01 v.4 which is 1920x1080p. These seem to be in very short supply and you have to be very careful where you get it from as it seems suppliers will advertise the screen but then only send out a similar, but probably not as good, compatible one. You will see from the first page of that thread only a couple of suppliers are recommended. As for actually removing the screen you can see some videos if you google hp screen change. It's not for the faint hearted but can be done. The bezel is secured by two screws at the bottom behind the rubber pads and then it's just a matter of carefully but firmly easing the bezel away from the rear cover. I started midway down the right hand side putting my nails between screen and inner bezel edge. After you hear some of the plastic tabs pop clear of the rear cover you will be able to get something like the edge of a credit card between the outer edge of the bezel and the rear cover and gradually work your way around. I found the danger areas were the top corners. Just take your time. What appear to be the silver metal hinges at the bottom of the screen are infact simple plastic covers for the real hinge - these plastic covers are part of the bezel and come away with it. I managed to break one off but it glues back on simply enough! The simple solution is of course to order the 1080 screen in the first place and to anyone contemplating buying one of the machines I'd say it was a must.

 

Hello everyone,

I have a Pavilion DV6T-4000 CTO (the silver one) and I'm running into some issues. The CPU (i7-2630QM) idle temperatures are ~60C and I think that is acceptable... But under load (playing games like crysis 2 or starcraft 2) they go as high as 97C!!!
So I'm going to reapply the thermal paste in it. I have decent experience with general computer hardware but I never took apart a notebook, so I was hoping one of you guys could walk me through it.
A few questions first:
Do I need to remove the keyboard and the screen in order to reach the fan/heatsink?
Removing the bottom cover is not enough to reach it??
Also, is Arctir Silver 5 the best thermal paste or is there any other I should be using?

Thanks in advance guys.

EDIT: Well problem solved:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7CEtfJtu_Y&feature=related

 

The 1080p screen in the DV7T is the LGD0283 panel, the same one used in the in the Envy 17. An excellent review is posted here: AnandTech - HP Envy 17: HP's MacBook Pro Killer?
From my own experience, it is a phenominal screen, with excellent brightness, contrast, and nearly perfect color accuracy. It doesn't oversaturate as well as some to achieve a higher color gamut, but is much more accurate overall. The antiglare (matte) version used in the DV7T has some of the best viewing angles and least falloff, I've seen on any LCD panel as well.

 

so the screen to get for the dv7t would be the LGD0283..and it should fit perfectly!!

 

How hard is it to replace the screen in a DV7t-6000? Do you have to pretty much gut the thing or does the screen come off semi-easily?

 

So I just ordered the dv6tse with the 1366 x 768 screen. Will I be able to upgrade to the B156HW01 V.7? Can anyone with the 1080p version supply the part number of the 1080p display cable?

 

You CAN buy replacement bezel, etc bits. Not sure how cost effective it would be if you needed to do so, though.

- Qlippoth

 

Will I need a replacement bezel upgrading from 720p to 1080p? Also, after some looking, I found the part numbers of the 1080p display, and the 1080p display cable, but I don't seem to be able to buy them. For anyone who's interested, these are the numbers I found:

FHD Display: 653378-001

FHD display cable: 656805-001