Lenovo Legion Y740 17" 15"

B R A V O !!! /claps

 

imagine the back cover from the factory,brand new.
This back cover internal have some tine plastic spikes that hold the mesh when applied.Then some hot gun heat the plastic spikes and the result is those black dots.
You take a scre driver, an expired credit card , even your own nails and gently remove them.
Be aware to not remove the huge plastic dots holding metal and plastic backover all together.

The black tape is there just to distribute heat to the heat pipes.all portions of that heatsink does not get hot equally.
The only heat you want badly to be removed is the gpu heat one and also the cpu heat one, vrams,moffsets and so on do not matter that much,meaning they can manage their heat and it is removed by the heatsink.
Removing the tape you let the heatpipes do the job as supposed to do and not pushing more heat to them via vrams/moffsets heat.

Removing tape gives you minus 2 to 5C.
Removing the metal mesh almost give you minus 10-30C.

A tip to be convinced by your self.
Run a benchmark with back cover and mesh,as your laptop is now.
Record the temps.
Now open the laptop ,remove the back-over and run the same benchmark..
You will be impressed with the results.

 

Wow thank you very for the help, appreciate it. BTW i already run some aida64 and the results were not pretty and thats with limiting the cpu to 3.6ghz on all cores, i got around 88-90c, and thats with cpu and gpu options checked(left the stress fpu off as with that i am getting 100c on cpu). So it will be interesting to see the results after the mod.

 

Sorry for double posting, finally i have managed to take the mesh out but i didn't noticed a big of a difference on the cpu side but it drop a few degrees on gpu side

 

I am almost certain to order Y740 17”.

Is there an option to control or change cooling fans curve? If not, which bios is best for having silent fans without sudden spikes in rpm’s?

Seems like the entire build is solid, especially hinges should last more than on the MSI GE75.

I am not a hardcore ultra/high settings gamer, I prefer more FPS or just quieter operation with lower settings in games and it seems I should be happy with the Lenovo after reading couple of reviews.

 

just a heads up: i repasted my machine (9750h 2080 max q) twice with my beloved master gel maker (which has been doing awesomely in my ultrabook) now and it degraded after 1 (!) day already reaching mid 90s while playing a not even cpu demanding game. i swore on that paste until today. i finally repasted again with phobya nanogrease and I tell you that my temps are far better with it. so for you guys who still have throttling issues you might give a shot with phobya.

 

I have ordered yesterday:
Legion Y740-17
i7-9750H
16GB
1TB M.2 SSD
RTX 2070 MaxQ
Full HD IPS 144Hz panel
Win10 Pro

Should arrive today and I will test it over the weekend.
I kindly ask anyone to check my previous post on this page and help with answers.

 

No fan curves modification available. You can change "thermal profiles" with the newer bios versions that your machine should ship with. 3 modes available, silent, auto and performance. Silent mode is the best for not having rpm spikes as it limits the cpu wattage to a lower limit.

You can flash an older bios version, that gives you 2 modes, automode and max fans mode. Max fans enables 90W powerlimit for GPU and automode has 80W.
The difference in performance with older vs newer bioses varies alot between users. For older cpu I personally didnt see much of a difference between thermals or performance, as the fans ramp at to max anyways depending on the game. But is still prefer the older bios version, just because I like to just have all the fans at max while playing. In principle the newer bios versions should be better performance vice, BUT you lose the ability to manually max out the fans. So its just a personal preference type of thing at the end... Cant tell you the best bios version for your system, search this thread and i think it is said somewhere.

You need to undervolt the cpu anyway to get rid of thermal limitations. It doesnt throttle THAT much with default settings in my opinion, in sense that you could see it as a fps drop in a game. But if you dont want to have your system at 90C or more, undervolting is a must. And its easy enough for the performance gains that its worth it. Couple of pages back there was a good guide for thermals posted by a1san, see that one for easy help!

 

I have read about the BIOS thing and possible downgrade - I was worried the newer version lowered the max rpm but if they are the same then it should be fine for me.

I have got the a1san guide already bookmarked, thanks for mentioning it.

Couple of other questions:

1. Is it possible to undervolt RTX with sth like MSI Afterburner?
2. It is my first panel over 60Hz. Is it possible to lock 144Hz to work all the time as 75 or 100Hz in Windows and then play games with lower settings with v-sync on? Or is it better to turn off iGPU and go for G-Sync? My first time with G-Sync and high refresh rates.
I wonder if running G-Sync and RTX all along will result in higher temps in idle and overall work with Windows etc. besides when playing games.
3. I use a notebook as my daily driver and desktop replacement, only in my house and always running from PSU so I am planning to remove the battery while adding additional 2,5”hdd.
Is it possible or is there any feature preventing turning on the system without battery present inside?

 

I dont think the bios version changes the max rpms, only that you can control it to max if you want.

Other ones:

1. Yes, youtube full of easy guides on that. Also in this thread are same values posted by others
2. Yes with a custom resolution, but why would you want to lower your refresh rate? You can turn of the iGPU by turning off hybrid mode, yes. With hybrid mode off you can choose if you use g sync or not. For example if playing games like CSGO (fast paced competative shooters) its better to turn of gsync for minimal input lag. G-Sync doesnt make more heat. G sync is best when playings some game that doesnt run close to the 144hz mark. Leave your refresh rate at 144hz and let gsync do its thing if you have like 70-80 fps or lower.
3. Dont know about that..

 

Patient arrived.

Just skipped through Win10 setup and did the evaluation of the display. I was prepared to send it back for swap like 3 times but I think what I received is totally fine and there is nor reason to push my luck.

Here are the photos of the screen bleed comparing to the current Probook 470 G2.

Left: Probook 470
Right: Legion Y740

All photos taken in manual mode with same fixed settings.
The vertical light bar on the 2nd screenshot on the right is unfortuantely from the hard light coming through the blinds. I will take another photos if somebody wants later in the evening.







I am very happy that the Y740 came with Samsung PM981 1TB SSD - I was worried they would use sth like basic WD drive.

 

I am fiddling with the Debud BIOS and there is an option to control fan speeds.
Also you could use the bios to apply undervolt without throttlestop if anybody would need it.

I will fiddle with it later, see how the fan speed can be controled (depending on the CPU temp scenario set in the BIOS).
I think you can configure it that it is completely silent in idle and first level of fan speed starts up after certain temp is reached depending on your chosen values.

 

Any alternative to 1GB Corsair iCUE to control keyboard backlight?

 

unfortunately no

 

Hi everyone, for those with the 9750h IRHg version with the rtx 2060 90w, can you send the vbios with gpu-z? I found this flash guide https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Gaming-Laptops/Unlock-your-RTX2060-GPU-to-90W-for-Y540/m-p/5007542
but it doesn't work for the Y740 iCHg i7 8750h ...
Thanks in advance

 

Grr... my power issue has returned. Hybrid mode on, have a 32W idle power discharge rate (According to batteryInfoView). Tried resetting power plan to default, no results. CPU is drawing 6-7W around 1Ghz at idle according to HWinfo64. Laptop is hot, the entire underside is hot as if gaming.
Normally, with hybrid mode on, I have a 11W power draw and 3-4 hours of battery. Now the laptop is hot, and I'm lucky to get 1 hour. Are you guys using the intel video driver from lenovo site or the latest video drivers from Intel's site for the 9750? (I believe UHD 630)

 

Is anyone know why my storage appear more than 1 with different value capacity like this?

 

Can I ask you how do you have the ram overclock option? because I don't see such option in my vantage software

 

If you use RAM with XMP profiles, it will show ram oc option on vantage

 

Interesting, And what kind of speed do you get when toggling it on? And also does it matter for gaming?

 

My RAM speed is only 2666, the XMP profile just change the timing to 18-18-18-38.

 

Yep, same here. Recently noticed high power drain with Hybrid mode on and just Chrome or Outlook being used. Maximum 1 hour usage, on battery. Before used to get around 3 - 4 hours. I have Quit selected in Vantage and Balanced selected in Power Options in Windows. (9750h/RTX2070) Latest Intel Drivers 7985 / Nvidia 445.87

 

You can overclock RAM very precisely by accessing debug bios.

 

Yes, I ran my RAM with custom timing 17-17-17-36 via debug bios

 

Wow, very interesting, seems I am not alone. Did you also install Intel Graphics Control Center? This issue is huge

 

Can you link a guide to RAM timing adjustments?

I was in there but dont know what to change, lots of numbers and what not.

Got a screen shot of your RAM settings??

 

I did a stable undervolt of -149 on CPU and so far I am gaming with driver locked 90Hz refresh rate and with disabled Turbo in TS (2.4Ghz).
BF4 runs in Ultra and I am hitting 68-70C while playing on my lap in bed.
I am more than impressed with this CPU and GPU performance.

 

Can u explain the reason for the 90Hz lock? Because I dont understand it Why would you limit the refresh rate? I could imagine that BF4 would run faster than 90 fps?

 

Because 90Hz is enough for me and there is no reason to waste more CPU and GPU resources rendering more frames which can relate the higher temps.
I have played with unlocked refresh rate 144Hz, locked 120, 100 with G-Sync in BF3, BF4, AW and I did not benefit that much over 90fps which is totally and enough smooth for me. Maybe CS GO players want constant 144Hz but I am not one of them. I would rather keep lower temps especially when I use my notebook 100% on my lap.

This should also translate to higher lifespan of all internal components which won't be stressed by the temps.

If there would be an option for a better screen with wider gamut, better backlight uniformity and only 90-120Hz I would be first one to take it.

 

Okay.... I just use the 144hz with g sync. While playing BF5 temps might get high, so sometimes I limit the CPU to 35W TDP or so. Temps are around 80c max and the cpu still clocks to about 3,3- 3,5Ghz. This way I can get (on low settings) like 130 fps, and the gsync makes it smooth. You could still limit your fps to 90 and have the screen at 144hz with g sync on. Just seems like a weird thing to limit your refresh rate when the screen has all those features to make it smooth no matter the frames.

I mean lowering to 90Hz with the panel would get you better battery life. But if that works for you, cool! Still smoother than 60 Hz

 

And you are right but...
I have myself experienced degradation in my Probook, Dell XPS 17 and Vaio F12 which all came with pretty high end mobile i7 in their class. Because of the usual 90-100C cpu temps, PCB itself and soldered component like screw socket for cooling plate started to show micro racks and then fell apart. Same with the screw springs pressuring cooling plate for cpu - because of the prolonged high temperatures they just lost their tension overtime which transformed to worse cooling ability.

CPU is rated for 100C sure, but not all other things surrounding it can sustain such temperature. Sure, I could overclock GPU a bit, game without limits on the cpu and screen but I am not that confident that the rest of the components like VRMs, mosfets and capacitors etc. can actually live that long under stress. Especially when we live in era when product should suffice only the warranty period. Overall it is still just a small notebook where everything was cramped inside. Desktop RTX can have 500-1000g cooling stuff added on it and much more components just to make it work better, cooler and with more power over long time. I am a bit skeptical about the potential dreaming in a high performance notebook solution when it comes to its internal build quality.

And just to be clear, I did not bought the notebook to run in constantly locked at 2.6Ghz and 60Hz - I am going full power when converting audio or movie files, working with PS or editing a movie. As I have almost 15 years of demanding games backlog, so far I am gaming much better than expected and there is no performance limitation so far. Maybe if I get to 2020 games locked 2.6Ghz would not be enough and then I will have to turn off the limit and even then gaming on max settings will still yield less than 90fps.

 

Yes I understand that when talking about temps and performance.
But Iam talking strictly about the screens refresh rate. That it could run at full 144Hz with G sync on still if you get 90 fps in a game. It might even look smoother with the full screens capability. Thermals and performance would still be the same, the screen would be just faster.

I think we mixed up FPS and Refresh rate here I was talking about your screens refresh rate and how g sync manages to make games look smooth even when your fps would be lower than your refresh rate. You could still limit your FPS to 90, but run your screens refresh rate at 144Hz. Just saying. But if you think that it looks fine, then go for it! But some people doesnt see any difference in different screen refresh rates, so that can be it.

edit: answered in a earlier post.

 

Ok, now I understand. I have a limit set up only for games, desktop and windows is running with 144Hz refresh rate.
Indeed running the panel capped at 90Hz in every scenario especially when using system and browser would be a waste

 

thats most stable i can get with my ram now.
But for daily I only use 17-17-17-36.
Nothing particular, just change main timing.

 

Nice, I do the same but at 100fps. Are you using Rivatuner for the lock? I find that to give the absolute best fluid motion since frametimes(the time between each frame) are constant.

 

Can you share the 90w vbios for your RTX 2080 MaxQ?

 

No need for Rivatuner, there is an built in option in Nvidia Control Panel->3D Settings-> Max Frame Rate

You can configure it per program or globaly.

 

Oh interesting, I wonder if this is better, worse or equivalent to Rivatuner. I'll try it out and take a look to see if frame timings are constant.

Edit: Frame times seem constant, nice. (I've locked it to 100fps and frame time is between 9.9 to 10ms. Rivatuner seems to keep a constant 10ms but that difference is impossible to notice)

 

Managed to tighten stock RAM (Ramaxel) timings for fun: from 19-19-18-43-467-2T to 17-17-17-38-467-1T

 

What difference will that provide?

Any benefit for gaming?

 

~1GB/s more to memory bandwidth. As for games I didn' do any tests. I just did it because I could.

 

Oh, hmm...
I notice Vram speed has zero effect on framerate in any/every game I play.

So I underclock VRAM 1Gb/s so my gpu can clock higher with the limited power budget.

I wonder if this is also true of system RAM?
(Just wasting power and making CPU power or temp throttle more)

You notice the cpu get hotter or anything?

 

How do you underclock GPU RAM by 1Gb/s? Makes no sense.

System RAM has nothing to do with CPU throttling or temperature.

 

Maybe he underclock his GPU VRAM speed via MSI Afterburner.
But I do agree if VRAM speed has almost zero effect in FPS and even in benchmark result using 3DMark.

But I don't agree with reducing VRAM speed method to pursue higher clock speed, at least for my RTX 2070 Max-Q. Because in real world usage when gaming my GPU clock speed ranging between 1440-1530 MHz (No matter how much speed clock limit I've set on Afterburner).
And when benchmarking or doing some stress test, the clock speed hovering around 1710-1785 (no VRAM OC Applied). If I push my VRAM +500Mhz, My clock speed hovering between 1685-1740 before it hits Power Limit.
Conclusion : Set my GPU clock speed higher than 1500Mhz has no effect on game FPS, only affecting my benchmark score. If I set max clock @1500Mhz, 3DMark Timespy I only get 6900-7000, but if I set max to @1650 Mhz, I can get 7300-7400.
So for my daily use, I set my clock speed max @1650Mhz with +500Mhz VRam.

NB : All tested using Silent Profile (80W GPU), I don't like using Performance mode (90W) because I got bad thermal when using this mode. I like to keep my CPU temp under 80C and GPU under 70C at all condition.

 

Are you saying RAM chips do not get hotter with higher clock speeds? Thats odd isnt it?

I use MSI afterburner to underclock VRAM the max.
(Slider all the way left = effective -1Gb/s)

I lock fps at 125 in my games, with any VRAM OC fps becomes unstable and loses its "locked flatlined fps".

But underclocked its rock solid with no dips.

Im a 1% low gamer, I cap at 1% low to remove 99% or so of dips.

CPU is also power limited to 45W when gpu loaded, so why wouldnt it make sense taking power from RAM = more available power for CPU??

Maybe you saying system RAM power draw is not part of CPU power budget?

Also, who knows where the power sensing resistors are on 2070 maxq?
Would be interested to see what a small power shunt to GPU could get us.......

 

I am referring to system RAM, not Video RAM from GPU. And I did not overclocked it even by 1Mhz - I just tightened timings. Please quote me precisely.
RAM voltage has nothing to do with CPU power limit scenarios. No offence but you have no idea how the system works, especially in terms of voltage. CPU, GPU and both system and video ram chips have their own voltage lines and operate on different voltages. You can underclock your ram as much as you want, it still uses same voltage it was designed to operate unless manually adjusted.

 

Dont get confused.

1. I know you are talking about system RAM obviously lol. (I had a brain fart and meant i uc 1GHz not Gb/s lol)
I was simply questioning if there could be a similar effect to vram oc/uc.
I also wonder what effect increased bandwidth has on power draw? If any?

2. I have never quoted you.
Just asked for clarification and questioned your assumptions.

3. Please tell me how you know the power budget for the CPU package does not include system RAM power draw?

4. Voltage is simply one part of the power draw equation.
There is core power draw and package power draw which adds together, thus I again ask how you are sure RAM draw is not included here?

5. Voltage doesnt = power.
With locked Voltage you will draw more power with higher clocks.

 

1.You can calculate DDR4 power draw on Micron technologies website if you want to go into such details.

2. Then don't assume that I meant "Are you saying RAM chips do not get hotter with higher clock speeds? Thats odd isnt it?" because I nowhere said that, especially when I was not even referring to overclocking and have not changed RAM frequency. Also, higher frequency RAM can run cooler than lower frequency RAM both idle nad full load, you can even find review with thermal data.

3. Read articles about Intel CPU power specification by Intel. System RAM is controlled by a separate and dedicated VRMs and is not governed by same complicated power logic like CPU and GPU where applied voltage is fluid rather than constant like with RAM. Also it totally make no sense from electrical point of view to include system RAM in the same line as CPU since they are two different units. You can either study publication about motherboards building or go easy way and watch some YT videos breaking motherboards down to every single electronic component with explanation how the system works and what each of the unit does.
Also, if you don't want to watch videos, then you can always check power draw of your system with 4GB DDR4 stick and 2x16GB sticks and bench your CPU.

4. Package = Intel CPU and all components on it, sometimes it could be a multi chip package when CPU and PCH are physically in the same package, for example: i7-7600U. Also first sentence in 3.

5. Of course, I have not said anything different. It was for comparison that RAM operates on constant voltage and not variable one like CPU which can lower it dynamically while operating at lower frequency. Also DDR4 RAM power draw is very small, usually around 4W per stick and lowering frequency by 50% will not translate in 50% less draw so it really does not make sense but again, you can test it yourself by physically measuring your system power draw from the wall.

 

Repasted today again with artic silver 5.

This time I replaced some of the thermal pads as I have a sheet of 0.5mm Arctic pad.

Instead of little individual pieces I have tried applying strips across components, and extended some pieces past the heat sink to touch adjacent components.

I also bought a raspberry pi heat sink kit and added 2 tiny heat sinks to the CPU heat pipe, and one to the shared heatpipe.

I also added a small copper plate to join the two heat pipes as the temp difference was excessive.

(My laptop cooler blows straight on the heat pipes and CPU die)

So far so good. Temps extremely low at idle (30's) and
under 99% GPU Load max gpu temp is 61C.
(With low cpu load)

About to stress the CPU in COD MW, it usually gets the CPU into the 90's so I will report back soon!

 

I want to power shunt the 2070 maxq.

I think the sense resistor is R005.

I will try and upload a pic.

Anyone confirm where this may be?