Lenovo Y50 Owners and Information Thread

Virus or something because you never know. You said that you tried everything, except that. So....

 

repaste your cpu and gpu and get back to us.

 

Hmm, makes sense. I guess I'll do that as a final resort then. Thanks!

I'm a total newbie when it comes to such things, I've never put thermal compound on a CPU/GPU before, so I am scared I might mess something up. Also, I couldn't find a guide for replacing thermal compound on a Y50 before, so that's a problem too.

 

LMGTFY: https://www.google.com/webhp?source...=UTF-8#q=repasting+the+cpu+lenovo+y50&tbm=vid

 

Oh thank you very much for..... nothing. Did you check the link yourself? There's nothing about repasting the CPU of a Lenovo Y50.

 

Oh and I just installed MSI Kombustor. I've been running the CPU burner for about 10 minutes now and the highest temperature my CPU reached is 78 degrees, with the average being 74.8 degrees. I'm starting to wonder whether this Kombustor really stresses your CPU. If I had been playing Dota 2 my it would've already reached 90 degrees.

 

Dota uses your GPU as well and MSI Kombuster does not. CPU and GPU share the cooling system so heavy load on the GPU is bound to transfer some heat on the CPU hence the 90°C you saw..

 

Ah, I see. That makes sense. So is there nothing else I can do except repasting to reduce those temperatures?

 

Repasting the CPU with quality paste and regular cleaning of the vents will help. You might also consider undervolting your CPU a bit.

 

I will try undervolting the CPU first. If it doesn't help much, I'll repaste the CPU then.
Thank you!

I also have another question, can you give me a few situations where my CPU would turbo boost? Because personally I've only seen the frequency go to 3.4 GHz once, I don't really remember what I was doing then, though. Most of the time the frequency is 2.8 GHz. I'm worried my Turbo Boost is actually off. Can anyone clarify this for me?

 

from all signs, your temps are too high for turbo boost.

 

That's while gaming, when Turbo Boost wouldn't turn on anyway. But even for normal use, when the temps are around 55 degrees, shouldn't Turbo Boost work then?

 

Sluppo, go few pages back, I gave some hints about repasting Y50.

It is extremely easy to do on this laptop, you remove only two things - bottom cover and then heatsink itself, that has about 6 screws.
Then you perfectly clean heatsink and CPU/GPU dies with isopropylalcohol (preferably), put new paste, put back heatsink, screw down, done. Do not touch anything else and you are fine.

 

Alright, I'll look into it and probably try it soon, thank you!

 

Hello,
I am getting a good deal on the y50 but all the complains about the bad display are holding me back. Just want to have some opinions if the display is 'adequate' given that iam not very picky about these things. I am getting the y50 with tn screen for around 700 dollars and there is no other laptop that comes close in terms of specs in this budget. I have heard a lot of bad things about the display in reviews but i understand that some of these people are tech enthusiasts and want the best display quality. Would you recommend the y50 at this price even if the display is not perfect? Also can i expect it to run dragon age inquisition at medium to high settings (also want to play witcher 3 but iam assumjng medium settings on that would be asking a lot)?

Thanks

 

The display is fine. At least for 1 person, then the angles don't matter, since you can just adjust the screen to how you are sitting, and it's fine.

And Dragon Age Inquisition works great on native resolution on high, with a few items set to medium. I have everything on high except tessellation, shadow, shader, which are on medium. Benchmarks at average 45ish fps.

 

Thanks for the reply. I think that is good enough for me. One more question. How much battery life can i expect (on browsing, office work etc. not gaming)? And anything else you don't like about the laptop? Thanks

 

Sorry, but I don't use it for any work or on battery, just for gaming while plugged in. I got separate notebook for work.

I got no real complaints. It's a good deal for a portable gaming machine, but you do get what you pay for, so build quality isn't the best, but I don't think it's an issue. Also, I don't really like the layout of the direction arrows, but it's not really an issue for gaming.

 

I get 3.5 hours on about 30% brightness and power saver with chrome and word running.

Btw, anyone got some laptop cooler recommendations for the y50?

 

I just got a Y50 to test out and I am for the most part enjoying it. However, I am noticing a ton of keyboard flex on the numpad side. The left side of the keyboard seems good, but the right side has lots of flex, I can even see surround keys move when pushing the 'enter' key for example. Is anyone else experiencing this? If so, is there some kind of quick fix I could do to keep this from happening? Maybe like reinforcing the backside of the numpad area or something?

 

I have gotten a y50-70 that runs quietly and cool. However I have noticed that if I press left shift in the up most right corner it falls off. I am reluctant to send it back because of this since I have had y50-70s before that have not run as quiet and cool. Is there any solution to this? A new shift key or maybe glue the current one into place (a bit afraid the glue will stick to something else)?

 

i bought this lenovo y50 from India. I am facing some problems with graphics at some point of performance. When an app is installed to it its a kind of blur, except games and all stuff runs well. And i am also a bit disappointed with the touch pad it has. The build quality is not that good as expected, pretty much disappointing .
Any idea to fix the Graphics Prob of getting apps displayed blur. The drivers are up to date....

 

Nope, there's very very little to no flex on my Y50 keyboard.

 

Right-click the application, and click Properties. Now, under the Compatibility tab, check/uncheck the 'Disable display scaling on high DPI settings'. If it's checked, uncheck it, if it's unchecked, check it. I don't remember very well so I'm not sure but doing either of those should fix your problem. You'll have to do it for every application that's having this problem.

 

Hello, anyone got Dragon age inquisition to run in fullscreen on their y50? It runs fine but only in windowed mode. A quick search shows that it seems to be a common issue on the y50 or 860m but still havent been able to find a fix.

Also the volume controls and other fn key functions dont work when I am playing a game but work fine on the desktop. Is this normal? Thanks

 

Never had any issues with Inquisition.

 

Every once in a while my bass (over the headphone jack) is suddenly much weaker. I have no clue why other than that this sometimes happens after the Y50 is woken from sleep.

Anyone else been frustrated with sudden lack of bass? Any fixes?

 

Got mine in the mail, immediately backed recovery partition to usb then installed my 500gb 850 evo ssd and installed, removed all junkware, now downloading some games. Coming from y510p (got this as a warranty replacement! ) and so far so good, audio is light years better with the subwoofer, gets a little bit warmer on my stomach (when lounged) so i guess my next step tomorrow at my shop (it tech) is to replace stock thermal paste with IC Diamond. Will post before and after temps with GTA V!

 

I was hoping someone could help me decide what is the better model to go for.

i7 4720HQ
16GB RAM
GTX 960M 4GB
1080p FHD IPS NON-touch display
1 TB SSHD
$698 plus tax, $741 with tax (refurbished by Lenovo)

or

i7 4710HQ
16GB RAM
GTX 860M 2 GB
4k UHD IPS NON-Touch
256GB SSD
External DVD Burner
$899 plus shipping, about $930 expedited (new from Amazon)

Struggling with gauging the value between the two, the UHD is enticing.

 

UHD is pretty useless in a gaming machine with a single 860m. It will not be able to run games well at that resolution .

 

I have problem with this laptop, i got jumps to very high temps while gaming.
Its like average temps 60 degre and then BOOm max temp 86, its underwolted, using cooling pad and still that bad, i need some help lads.

 

by FAR get the 960M 4GB.

the CPU doesn't matter because it's basically the same;
the GPU simply consumes less, but has 5% more power AND more Vram;
supposedly Lenovo fixed the bios throttling on the 960;
The screen on the 960 version Is what many of the people in this forum changed it to, while the 4K is yellowish, bad angles, will stunt your FPS in games, and most games will force you to run in a small window.

The only thing the 860 version has in advantage , is the SSD, but you can buy a SSD with the money remaining from the 960. (I strongly suggest the SanDisk Extreme PRO).

in other words, I'd swap for the 960, if I could.

 

Underwolted, cooling pad, new thermal paste and still, plaing TW: Arena



Need some help guys.

 

I actually found a great deal on Amazon for $999, which is the Lenovo model 59444165. It has the i7 4720, 16GB, GTX 960M 4 GB, and FHD Touch with 512GB SSD. I ended up rolling with that. Can't beat it for $200 more over the refurbished one. Thanks for your recommendation, the more I read about the UHD model the more I got scared away from it, plus the fact that it had lower specs.

 

That's some good deal you got here!

 

ye found a great deal.
While you wait for it to arrive, search on YouTube "update your lenovo y50 drivers" or something like that,
go to lenovo site and download the BIOS updates,
then go to ninite.com and choose your free³ programs

 

Alright guys so I'm back and I've finally applied new thermal paste on my CPU and GPU. So I posted here a while back that my CPU was reaching really high temperatures (90-95 degrees, and it even hit 98 once in a while) even for games like Dota 2, which isn't really a resource hungry game. So I was suggested to apply new thermal paste and I finally did it. I used Noctua NH-1. I'll describe the process step by step just because I haven't found any other guides or videos online when I needed them.
Alright so I bought the paste, and then I was wondering where I could find Isopropyl alcohol to clean off the old thermal paste. I live in India so it's pretty hard to get over here. So I read somewhere that nail polish remover works too, so I went and bought one. I had ear buds with me, so I was planning to use those for cleaning. So I was all set and I started to remove the back panel (12 screws), pretty easy, I did this before to clean the vents and the fan. So next, I identified the heatsink from the photos online, and the screws on it. There were 6 screws in all, each numbered. They weren't completely inside the screw holes, they stood out a little, but that's how they're supposed to be, so don't worry. I unscrewed the heatsink and lifted it off. Damn, was I shocked (though I did expect it, because of the many videos I've seen online) when I saw that the thermal paste was splattered so horribly all over the CPU and GPU. If I ever find the bastard who did that I swear I'll kill him. Anyway, so it was a big mess, on the CPU, GPU, and the heatsink. I didn't think it was gonna come off. But I took a earbud and started anyway, on the heatsink first. It was actually easy to clean, I must say. The paste was very thick in consistency but not really hard or dry. I could take off a lot of it with the earbud. I kept using them until I could get most of it off. And then I thought, maybe I'd have to use the nail polish remover to completely clean it, as there was still a thin grey-ish layer on it. So I dipped the earbud in the nail polish remover and started using it to clean the heatsink, it worked, it cleaned off the whole thing pretty nicely, I must say. It smelled a lot too. Anyway, after cleaning the heatsink with the nail polish remover I was really wondering if I should use this on the CPU too, because I couldn't use just a 'little' of it, no matter how much I tried the whole ear bud would be soaked with the thing and as soon as I touched the heatsink with it it would spread all over the place. So then I simply used the ear buds without the nail polish remover to clean the CPU and GPU. I kept cleaning them, and after some 20 buds, they were finally squeaky clean. At least just the CPU and GPU heat spreaders, the shiny surfaces. I couldn't clean the rest of the processor fully because they had these protruding little pin-like things, that would not let me clean them with my earbud properly. So they weren't completely rid of the old thermal paste, they still had a small layer of it over them. I thought it wouldn't matter anyway because the heat spreaders were now shiny clean. So I was finally set. I took the Noctua NH-1 tube, and put a little drop on the CPU first, then thought maybe it was too little and then put some more, did the same on the GPU, and finally removed what I thought was excess with another ear bud. I then put the heatsink back on top and screwed it on. I put the whole thing back together and played DotA 2 on Ultra settings for about 40 minutes. The max temperature was 82 *C, with the average being 77 *C. This was a huge difference, compared to my old temperatures, which maxed at about 98 *C, with the average being 90 *C, even with most of the settings turned off, except for the textures. Almost 15 degrees difference. I'm really happy about this, though the original temperatures when I had just bought the laptop were somewhat better, with the temperature being around 72-74 *C when I played BF4 on Ultra. Not that big of a difference anyway, I don't mind.
Oh, and I just noticed I haven't mentioned which temperatures I'm talking about. It's the CPU temperatures, my GPU was usually around 10 *C lower than my CPU. The GPU temperatures have improved as well, they used to be in the range of 80*C before, now they're in the high 60s - low 70s range.
Thanks to everyone who helped me solve my problem, and especially Riotstarterr, who gave me the courage to do this, as I've never done anything like this before in my entire life. The closest I've gotten was clean my desktop CPU (which was around 8 years old).
If there's anything else you'd like to know, please ask and I will try to help you.

 

Are you using Throttlestep? If so, at what multiplier?

 

I cannot seem to get the subwoofer to work on mine. Does anybody have any ideas? I have reinstalled two different realtek drivers and have the sub volume at max.

It was working before.

 

for future reference,

i'm glad it worked out for you! good job.

for future reference, use an old toothbrush if you have thermal paste splattered all over the cpu/gpu pins.

 

Who, me? I don't use Throttlestop. I don't want to mess with that stuff, at least not now, I'm pretty content with the laptop's current performance. Oh, I also forgot to mention, mine is the i5 version.

 

Thanks!

I can simply use the toothbrush alone? Would I have to use some solution or can I just use it by itself? I'm afraid the bristles might damage the processor or something. I really don't know which parts are safe to handle normally and which parts need to be handled with care so I handle the whole thing like I'm defusing a bomb. 'Oh no I pulled too hard on that screw! Oh no I pushed it back too hard in! Oh no I pulled that wire accidentally, is this gonna blow up in my face now?!'

 

This might be able to help you, somewhat.
I've always had a problem with the combo jack or whatever you call this special jack, it gives low static when I connect my headphones (since they don't use that wombo combo jack) so I asked another friend who had the same laptop for help, he suggested me to disable the Realtek driver (or whatever driver makes the subwoofer work) and use the default audio driver. The woofer never really satisfied my anyway, it always sounded so flat... probably a manufacturing defect or something. Well anyway, so I switched the audio driver to the default one. So that might be your problem, because only the Realtek audio driver makes the subwoofer works. The other driver disables it. To be sure, check whether you have a red light coming from your mic jack. That's a sure sign that you aren't using the Realtek driver. I don't really remember where that setting was though, that let you switch between your audio drivers.
Okay **** I need to know where that setting is too. I was messing around and accidentally deleted that sound driver, had to install the Realtek ones that came with the laptop.
Please help. :'(

 

@Sluppo

I repasted mine, with the same temp problems, and temp stayed the same... over 90 in some games...
I underwolted, use cooling pad and still geting CPU hot as grill :/

 

I don't see a light coming from my mic jack at all. I know the realtek software is running in the system tray though.

 

You know the Maxwell (4Gb) 860 is the exact same as the 960 besides 50mhz on the core clock, right?

But yeah, stay away from the Keplar (2Gb) version. It is much weaker and more power hungry.

This is what I have in my windows audio options, I get no sound at all with only the sub turned up. Where do you mean a light on the mic jack? I haven't seen that at all.
http://puu.sh/ie9eM/c0146a9480.png

 

Oh, I see. That happened to me yesterday during the second reboot after my repaste. It got hot as **** (70 *C) on just idle. I noticed that there was a process that did that. So I restarted again and the temps were fine, back to normal. So it might be some process that's eating up all your processing power.
Or maybe, you need to clean the whole laptop. Have you cleaned the fans properly?

 

Oh so that means your driver is not disabled then. Because when the Realtek driver is disabled your mic jack will give off a red light. Well I don't know anything else that could help.
But wait, if you're this persistent to get it to work, then your subwoofer works well? Does the bass sound real deep?

 

@Sluppo
I cleaned whole laptop, its really clean inside, i repasted with X method both CPU and GPU, what whas that process that ida that to You?
Cuz i really need some help, my CPU is hot as hell, 75++ while typing this (only chrome working)

 

which thermal paste did you use? and x method i would think in a smal die situation such as this i would use a spread with as little as possible or go with small pea sized amount (im a pc repair tech as background) but thermal paste used plays a role. but using too much will actually have an adverse effect.

personally i would wipe clean and start fresh, first things first the cleaning process. use a papertowel and get as much as you can. then a paper towel with 91% isopropotol alcohol getting any remainder. then a coffee filter (leaves no lint behind) with a small amount of alcohol, lastly polishing any remaining alcohol with a dry FRESH no particle coffee filter. on both the cpu/gpu die as well as heatsink in each of these steps. once clean with NO particles (lint, hair, dust etc) use a small pea sized amount of thermal paste, remember again less is more in the case of tp. you want just enough to make a paperthin cover of the die, hover the heatsink directly over the die lining up the screwholes before ever coming into contact with the thermal paste. then slowly and evenly lower onto. screwing into with the numbers so thatt even pressure is applied allowing to spred properly. and then that should do it.


personally as for thermal paste for temp sensitive items like direct dies i use IC Diamond (VERY VERY TOUGH but works GREAT) but even in this case i think arctic silver 5 should work but remember it IS conductive! so be careful, i revived a laptop today using good ol AS5. computer (hp g6) would shut down due to overheating after 10 minutes of use. after my repaste it was able to do 2 hours of stress test.

anyways, hope this helps!