Lenovo Y50 Owners and Information Thread

Hey guys, What's the best way to clean the keyboard? In between the keys is starting to get a bit dusty, as is the small crack between the touchpad and the palm rest. What have you all been doing? anything i should try? or anything to avoid?

Thanks.

Also, I need a longer power cord. (from the brick to the PC) not the other end of the cable. Any suggestions on where to look??

 

Clean the keyboard of dust and stuff with a can of compressed air. They sell them at every office supply store in the world and online. Then remove any grease, Cheeto dust, or whatever with a little rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol (I use the little wipes they sell at the pharmacies for wound cleaning.) You'll now have an almost new computer again.

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You won't find a longer brick to PC cable. They never sell longer versions than the one it comes with (that goes for every laptop.) You'd be best to replace the brick to wall part as those are an industry standard part and can be replaced with nearly any length you can find online. If you're dead set on extending the brick to PC side you'd have to cut the cable, solder or cable nut extra wires into the loop, and then re-heat-shrink the cable. NOT RECOMMENDED.

 

Guys what is the best version of BIOS to update on W10?


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I noticed that the CPU was reaching very high temperatures, so I decided to open the case and change the thermal compound. I already did this when I bought the laptop in August because the GPU temperatures were way too high (around 95°C after 5 minutes playing). After changing the thermal compound, GPU temps dropped. But CPU temps were still high, around 80°C in most games, 95°C on high demanding games like BF4.

This is how I applied the thermal paste:



I spread the thermal compound through all the CPU surface because last time just applied a drop, I think this is the reason why the CPU temps were so high. Do you think I did it right?


This are the temps I got now (after 40 minutes playing BF4. The room temperature is about 22°c):

 

Just repasted today with artic mx4.

Gpu temperatures improved by 15 degrees.

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I haven't had serious temperature issues, but I wouldn't mind improving temps a little. Tiner, is this the stuff you used? I also don't even know what to put it on. Those two spots in phobos1911's picture, what are each?

I've never re-pasted anything, so bear with me.

 

I've used Arctic MX-4, too. But I recommend you to clean the heatsink and the CPU/GPU with this.
Those two spots are the CPU (left) and GPU (right).

 

Thinking about getting an external Bluray drive for watching movies. Does the Y50's PowerDVD10 software play Blurays? If not, any recommendation for good Bluray media players?

 

SSD UPGRADE


HEY
i have bought a samsung evo 850 500gb ssd and a transcend usb 3.0 case...
i need help in cloning my hard drive
since i have bought 500gb and y50 has 1tb storage .. how can i clone my windows drive 100gb and other partition drive so that OKR still works...??
also do i need USB-SATA cable for cloning or i could use the transcend case for cloning...

HELP ME ,,,PLEASE..

 

You can use EASEUS Partition Master to resize the internal drive to 500GB. After resizing the internal drive, connect the case and clone the drive using Clonezilla.
Both tools are free and easy to use. You'll need a CD to burn the Clonezilla iso file or you can also create a LiveUSB.
If there is any sensitive data in that drive, I would recommend you to create a backup before using the resize tool, just in case.

 

wouldn't partitioning it will destroy OKR??

 

Resizing the system partition should not affect the OKR partition and if you clone the whole disk, the partition table will remain the same.

Cloning the drive could be a problem if the OKR partition is located at the end, but I'm not sure because my Y50 doesn't have that partition. I've formatted the drive and reinstalled Windows from disk.

 

Resizing will stop okr but it's very easy to get it back

Okr always stop after any partition resizing because the oem partition will be marked as recovery also
So it's just 3 commands from diskpart and u will get it back working

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yes i know cause i have faced that issue
what commands are to be executed ...can u plzz give more spotlight

 

I cloned my stock SSHD to a Crucial SSD using this cable and this free drive cloning software. I know that's not quite what you asked, but I don't know about that case of yours and I figured this might help anyway.

I've been told that OKR won't work, but I never bothered checking after the switch.

Let us know how things go.

 

well i would be using macrium reflect and i can get the okr working on the ssd when i install okr 8.0 and new windows 8/10
but i have a lot of data+softs which i don't want to install again as i am happy with the current os performance..
let's see when the ssd arrives//

 

Does anyone know if the Y50's PowerDVD10 software can play Blu Rays?

 

installed evo 850 ssd

didn't use cloning software as i was almost certain that okr would break
installed fresh win 10 on ssd and okr 8.0
ENABLED Rapid Mode in Samsung Magician (it's using ram 1- 3GB now)
BOOT time from power on to desktop is 6-8 sec BUT loading application(at startup) makes the boot time to go upto 28-33 sec (measured with bootracer )

STARTUP APPLICATIONS-

1. BITDEFENDER INTERNET SECURITY 2015
2. CHROME (WITH 10-15 EXTENSIONS)
3. NVIDIA GEFORCE EXPERIENCE
4. INTEL HD GRAPHICS
5. SAMSUNG MAGICIAN
6. REALTEK HD AUDIO MANAGER
7. INTERNET DOWNLOAD MANAGER
8. LENOVO ONE KEY THEATRE
9. LENOVO ENERGY MANAGER
10. MOBILE PARTNER(3G DIAL UP DONGLE)

I NEED TO ASK THESE THINGS
1. I AM UNABLE TO DISABLE RAPID MODE AS I HAVE COME TO KNOW THAT IT REALLY DOESN'T HELP(I CAN'T DISABLE USING SAMSUNG MAGICIAN SOFTWARE) so tell me how do i disable rapid mode
2. IS THE BOOT TIME GOOD ?? AS 30-35 SEC IS A LONG DURATION

 

1) The only way to disable Rapid Mode is in Magician. However, if you think it doesn't help you're smoking something. Do some research or just use the Magician's built in speed test.

2) If you want it to be faster stop using third party A/V's as all they do is slow computers down. Use common sense and built in Windows Defender and you'll be faster and fine. Also, loading Chrome, a butt load of extensions, and other unnecessary boot stuff takes time. Either uninstall or disable them at startup or live with the time it takes stuff to load.

 

1. i get performance optimization not supported on win 8 or higher..(TRIM IS BY DEFAULT ON WINDOWS 10)
2. i have enabled maximum reliability on OS OPTIMIZATION
3. managed to disable rapid mode by this (done myself)
*stopped magician and the rapid service from task manager
*in system32 there is a folder named RAPID ...RANAMED it and moved to another location
*restarted and then disabled the rapid mode from magician(it was saying rapid mode could not be enabled ..click on disable)
*worked

 

TRIM was a part of Windows 8 and 8.1 as well

 

Hmmm I could check (I have a y410p, but the POWERDVD software is still available for download), but as far as I know the only free software that plays Blu Ray well is VLC. Here's a bit of an explanation on how to get VLC to play Blu Ray: http://www.ufusoft.com/free-way-to-play-blu-ray-disc-movie-with-vlc-in-windows-8-64-bit32-bit/

 

i've spent some time with my laptop screen settings this past weekend.

i have the touchscreen 1080P screen. So swapping the screen is currently not an option unless i intend to change the connector, which i'm not willing to.

no matter how i calibrated, everything that should look green, comes out yellow.

i have yet to see any videos of touchscreen removal. or screen replacement for touchscreen Y50s.

i am throughly dissapointed at this screen. i used to have a 3 year old asus Q550lf with a 1080p IPS screen which looked absolutelly stunning for a laptop.

anyone with the touchscreen has had any luck in replacing their screens?

Also, i just noticed no displayport or miniDisplayport. such a bummer. got a Asus ROG swift Gsync monitor that i can't even connect to my laptop. DP to hdmi adapters don't work with this monitor. Meh, i guess it's gonna stay for desktop use only.

other than that, i played some rise of the tomb raider (very taxing game, even for my gaming desktop) and the laptop handled it quite well. i'm impressed at how much gaming power this laptop has.

 

My Y50 won't boot when is connected to an external display by HDMI. I have to disconnect the HDMI cable, turn on the computer and connect it again when it's on the Windows login screen, otherwise it will show a black screen. Someone else has this issue? It's running Windows 10.

 

It helps if you grab a q-tip and cut one end off...use that stick of the q-tip and slowly drag it across the top of the chip and get a nice thin layer spread with good coverage.

Try to prevent an air bubble being trapped under the heatsink.

You can just glob it on but I've noticed more consistency when the compound is spread smoothly across the chip.

Take your time and be patient with it.

-Sean

 

I have Asus ips 1080p monitor connected to hdmi port in Lenovo y50 works very good. Selected as the main and extend in display settings. Windows 10.

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I was planning to buy lenovo y5070 gtx960 FHD , but i read reviews that talk about hinges,its getting hot quickly,screen flickering,fan noise ,blue screen and that it has hardware issues .
So i need help is this laptop has this problems or not and if it is worth buying?
Please I need your experience with this laptop

 

1. I'm owner y50 i5 4200H 8gb memory (now 16 gb) gtx860m (gpu overclocked 135core-300mem all the time) undervolted cpu (in TrottleStop 8.00) -90.8 mv - stable. My brother have the same laptop but cpu i7 4710, cpu undervolted not over -50(60) mv, otherwise not stable under heavy load. The main issue with this cpu in Lenovo they not holding turbo boost all time under heavy load. All games and video rendering only stock mhz (i5 - 2×2800, i7 - 4×2500) when using ThrottleStop program and set multiplier all the way up, i5 can handle turbo boost, but I noticed that when gaming (BF4) with turbo boosting, i5 cpu usage 95-100%, when set cpu at stock (2800) mhz cpu usage 60-80%. I don't know why. I7 cpu in turbo mod only 3100 (default turbo 3400mhz) and slightly going down.

I'm using laptop cooling pad (Cooler Master U3) without fans. Temperature during gaming (i5 cpu set turbo 3400mhz, gpu+ 135core, +300 mem. mhz) cpu ~80-85c°, gpu ~68-72c° I can say temp is normal. Laptop fans is not loud.

2. Very bad 1tb +8Gb nand sshd. Very slow down laptop performance. Every time blue screen. My already dead. Now using my old 320gb HDD. Laptop works good no blue screen.

3. Screen is ok. My non tuch, no ips , 1080p. No flickering. For me is ok. I'm using external monitor I like this laptop, jbl speakers, slim profile, s/pdif optical audio out. What I missing is display port .

 

Hello y50 owners!


I've seen a good deal on this laptop, and I am tempted despite all the negativity about the screen (it's got a non-touch FHD).

On paper, it would be a significant spec upgrade for me, and the aesthetics (red accents, mmh ) are damaging my decision-making ability (Also, proper speakers!). On the other hand, it is 2 years old, and my last machine has crapped out at 3. So...how dumb is this plan, exactly? TIA for answers

 

should be alright as long as you maintain good temps all round for the laptop. the screen is seriously not that bad, yellows are perhaps 'slightly' off, but just mess around with the intel settings (particularly the gamma and whatnot, and you should be alright. if worse comes to worst, 20"+ monitors nowadays aren't too badly priced). pretty solid laptop, the hard drive is not that great, depending on what version of the laptop you get (i had the standard 1tb+8sshd, not too great, subsequently changed to samsung ssd). it may be 2 years old, but there are a few variants of it (ones with an upgraded GPU, more ram, SSD included, etc... depending on what original product you looked at). i would recommend it.

check the post i made here for reducing temps (mainly for games)

 

Hello guys,

Do anyone have a video or tutorial of how to repaste the CPU and GPU for a regular Y50? I'm getting really high temps such as 60 Celsius when idling and high 90s under load... I'm thinking it might be the thermal paste


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on what kernel are you right now?

 

You mean the OS? Windows 10. The BIOS is still the OEM and my nvidia driver is 355.98




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okay
i tried thermal paste but it didn't help for cpu but gpu temps were improved(reduced)..
the cpu is the real culprit for throtlling and if you would like to try ...try this method
link

 

Thanks for the answer, I repasted the notebook but the temps are still the same... I'll try that and see what I can get.

God, I will never buy any other lenovo under no circumstances, this notebook is crap


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Does anyone reading this thread happen to know:

1. Does the 4K UHD display with multi-touch differ from the 4K UHD display without touch? I think I read somewhere that the multitouch may be samsung and the non-multitouch may be LG, and that the former is glossy while the latter is matte finish. Does anyone have data on whether the SRGB is better on one vs the other? Among other things, like brightness and overall quality.

2. new gtx 960m 2gb and 4gb versions, is there going to be a worthwhile performance difference of 4gb over 2gb on a laptop with this i7-4720 cpu and 16gb of ram + ssd? asking this because I've seen two configs, one with non-touch ips display with 16gb ram and 4gb vram, the other with touch display, 8gb ram and 2gb vram. i can always upgrade the ram but not the vram. Trying to determine which is the better choice since they both would cost me the same price pretty much.

3. does 48hz panel limitation mean that you'll run into issues with 60fps video playback?

 

Hey guys, I recently noticed that my Y50 has a tiny crack around the left screw closest to the hinge. I have not dropped the laptop or damaged it in any way. It is a non touch version, however could this be related to the known hinge issue? I've had the laptop for over a year and this is the first time something like this happened. Of course I can buy a new bottom case off ebay, but I am afraid the issue will replicate itself and there will be another crack on the new case. What do you think caused this and are there possible fixes to this? Did anyone also get this issue apart from people on the official Lenovo forum? Thanks, ryzz

 

That isn't the hinge issue but lenovo is known for overtightening those bottom screws which cracks the case.

 

Here is a picture of the crack.
I am afraid it will crack and come off completely soon. Also the part around the right side of the speaker (where the crack is beneath) is kinda uneven and when I touch it there's kind of a bump, as if the bottom base did not fit it perfectly and it is under it. Can you please confirm or is it my machine?

Sorry I double posted, it sounds weird but could you slide your finger on the right side of the laptop when you open it? The part where the curvy part of the bottom case meets the body of the laptop. The part where I have it uneven is right above the speaker, it goes slightly down to meet the bottom case. Anyways I am getting slightly irritated at this laptop. All I actually do is solve one issue after another and I cannot lose the laptop for over 1 month to get these ridiculous things fixed. I did open the case before so its maybe my fault for positioning the bottom case differently, but i reopened it today and there is nothing i can do to make it even. The left side fits perfectly tho, no problem with that and there is also no cracking at all.

 

I'm wondering.. Does anyone else have random screen flicker sometimes?
I've had the problem since the beginning I had my Y50, I returned it immediately under DOA and got a new one with the same issues, it only happened less often...
Because it were the same problems I assumed it was driver-issues and tried to install different versions and wait a bit for Lenovo updates.

But nothing solved the problems, so I've send the laptop in for repair a little while ago. When it returned the problem stayed but even got worse.

It's a random screen flicker that occurs very randomly, the delay between each screen flicker is between a 10 seconds or so to a day or 2 of usage. (before the rapair more like 1hr to 2 days, after it the repair it always happens multiple times a day, while writing this article I got it about 3 times) After the repair I got patient enough to wait a bit to see if it happens in the BIOS screen, and I can confirm it does, I saw it 2 times, one I captured on camera (I could upload it if anyone is interested, but it's harder to see on camera than on the laptop itself).
Every so often the entire screen glitches out (weird colors/unusable screen) which requires a force-shutdown. It happened more often on the first Y50 (immediately the first day 2 times), only happened 2 or 3 times on my current Y50 and didn't happen after the repair yet.

I'm wondering if I'm that unlucky, or others experience similar issues?

 

Try to install a newer BIOS version to see if it works.

 

I'm on the newest bios version (v3.03 I believe). (lenovo wouldn't repair it until I was on the newest version)

 

I thought I was the only one. Exact same spot for me. Though in my case it might be my fault for screwing that one back in too tightly.

 

Owners of the Y50, Can you please let me know what Synaptics/touchpad drivers you're using? Also, what version bios?

After a bios update from lenovo warranty repair, my FN+F6 combo to disable the trackpad no longer works, so i'm trying to figure out what drivers i need. the ones from lenovo's website don't fix it. nor do the default ones windows installs.

Any help would be amazing. my palm brushes the trackpad and moves my cursor when typing. It's really starting to anger me. I just want to be able to toggle it off via the Function key again.

 

okay i think i solved the throttling!!!! without intel xtu, throttlestop,or any cooling pad
last night this is what i did...
1. opened the back panel and and repasted the thermal paste on both processors...( i did this 2 tym BEFORE also but with no luck to solve throttling)
MOST IMPORTANT
2. this tym i removed the net like structure from the back ..peeled out the portion where 2 fans are located and then folded the net...

BELIEVE IT OR NOT TEMPS HAVE GONE DOWN TO THIS

DYING LIGHT THE FOLLOWING
**EARLIER USING THROTTLE STOP @ 18 MULTIPLIER
CPU 95-97 DEGREE CELSIUS
GPU 92 DEGREE CELSIUS

**NOW USING THROTTLE STOP @ 35 MULTIPLIER (MEANS NO USE OF THROTTLE STOP)
CPU 63-65 DEGREE CELSIUS
GPU 70-73 DEGREE CELSIUS

NOW I GUESS THE CULPRIT FOR THE WHOLE TIME WAS THIS PROTECTIVE NET FROM DUST..

YOU CAN ALSO TRY IT ,,,AS THERE'S NO HARM IN DOING THIS LOUSY THING
AND PLEASE REPORT BACK IF ATTEMPTING AS THIS MIGHT CONFIRM THAT THE PROTECTIVE NET IS THE MAIN CULPRIT AND WE WILL BE FREE FROM THROTTLING ONCE AND FOR ALL...

 

You mean you removed the dust filter from the bottom? I don't quite get you. Could you post a photo?


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POSTED
SEE THE EARLIER REPLY

 

Okay thanks, I will try that asap.

If the temps go down then this is a huge design flaw from lenovo...


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That used happen to me as well, but it has stopped now. I used to think that it may have been a connection issue, where the connection might have not been perfectly in. But after update thing bios, and nvidia driver, it has went away, at least for me it did. I'll let you know what my bios version, and nvidia drivers are when i get home.

 

Sorry, i dont really understand the problem, do you think you can post a picture of where it is curvy?