It's all good. I don't use my laptop outside anytime so have no potential issues with that. TBH though, I've been so accustomed to the POS factory screen that anything seems a major improvement!
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This question has been asked many times but never answered properly. But here it goes again. What is exactly the difference between -100 and -110?
and about the led thing? Someone said you should solder a jumper harness or something? But wouldn't it be easier just to buy a 40pin ribbon and connect that to your lcd screen and motherboard. Then buy an led inverter and you're done? -
the -120 differs in being matte but also would have had a different digitizer attached to it.
if there is a major design change, the part number will change. the revision number only defines a difference in the configuration of minor parts. -
Hey guys -
I know I'm late to the game here, but if anyone is still interested in this upgrade, I have access to all three panels (100, 110 and 120) and am thinking about doing a comparison thread that literally "shows" the difference between all three. Could be fun. Whadaya think?
shu -
Bring it on.
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I didn't want to spend alot of money getting a new screen so it was a good thing that I found the -100.
I still think that you could just buy a 40pin lcd ribbon and a led inverter instead of soldering it yourself and use a led screen instead. Anyway I got documents of the specifications of the hv121wx4 and wx5 which shows you the exact parts (partnumber and manufacturer) they use for the interface connectors and also the layout of the 20 and 40pin connectors.
I thought it was easy to just google those parts and find out what i exactly need and buy them from ebay. But it wasnt that easy. Then I just tried to search for spare parts of a x200 with LED screen but the prices were too high for a inverter and a ribbon cable.
So it was just more cost effective to buy a -100 -
That would be amazing. Does anyone know if the AFFS screen will keep its brightness as long as an LED? Because someone told me that LEDs do not automatically mean increased longevitiy. If a good CCFL screen is used, then it can maintain brightness for a long time as well. I have a Dell ccfl lcd monitor that is half a decade old, and it's still plenty bright and does not seem like it's lost any visible brightness. -
CFFL screens can dim over time. Every screen is it's own story. Some look very good after five years while others have dimmed a lot. It's really luck of the Irish or unluck as the case may be. The AFFS CFFL screen in my X200 is slightly brighter than the one in my X200t, though both offer more than enough brightness for indoor usage.
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For your x200t, which I have seen before, are you talking about the LED x200t or the ccfl x200t screen? The LED x200t screen looks plenty bright to me. -
I have the Hydis HX121WX1-110 LED. I have no problems with the brightness. I prefer to use it at 4-5/15 for the brightness level.
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People watching movies together on the X20x LCD? Puh-leeze!!!
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"Hm.... the horizontal viewing angle is pretty narrow, you should come closer and you'll see much better..." *yawns and stretches hands in attempt to hug her from behind*
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Actually, before I swapped my T400's LCD, I preferred to watch movies on my X200. I'd rather use my larger notebooks now, but it'll work in a pinch. -
Any idea if there is possible to buy a jumper harness? Or is it nearly to do the mod at this point? -
I think you need to buy the cable and the inverter for the CFFL screen, then you're good to go.
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Thanks! I don't want to give up on AFFS screen - I bought (finally!) the matte version!
Oh, if anyone happens to know part numbers for these things, it'd be great! -
They're all in the Hardware Maintenance Manual.
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Thanks. -
I bought it off eBay, for $210. I didn't know I'll have to buy the other two parts, they came out to be around $35 total on eBay too.
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Thank you.
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Is it just mine, or the AFFS screen (HV121WX4-120) has quite a bit yellow tone to all colors. For example, gray colors look clearly brown ? :-/ Also, the estimated battery life dropped down by half with the new screen....
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going from LED back to CCFL can drop overall runtime anywhere from 30~45 minutes.
a yellow tint to all colors means something is dying.
it's an unfortunate risk one takes when buying used panels. -
Well the seller (on eBay + the guy was here on the forums) said it was new.... and looks pretty new as well. I'll pop him an e-mail... I think the guy is honest.
Maybe I didn't explain it quite right. It's not actually yellow tint to all colors. The white looks really really white. And blue looks really blue. It's only I think grays that looks brownish. The screen overall does look much better than the AUO stock (or whatever that... thing was).
Thanks! Your estimate is pretty close, actually. I restarted and now Lenovo battery bar shows ~4:30pm, while with the old LED screen it shows ~5:25pm on full battery. -
adjust the gamma value and the colour temperature of your LCD.... with my old X200, the yellowish tinge is prevalent under all conditions, and especially noticeable with a white background.
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Yeah still tinkering with it, it looks a little better now, but not quite exactly as I want it
On top of that, it looks like the LCD ribbon cable I got from eBay has a malfunctioning ThinkLight. Already e-mailed the seller.... sigh.
The screen is not even close to RGB LED, but quite a bit of improvement from the stock one. And most importantly, matte. But viewing angles are insane and video playback comes quite close to RGB LED. Probably the best matte (or non-glossy) I've seen. And yeah it actually has a real black color! I took tons of pictures when I was replacing the screen and swapping the LED board with the inverter for CCFL, so I'll post exactly how to do the replacement properly with LED-based X200. Some steps were just plain painful. -
This is not how it is supposed to look like, right?Attached Files:
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i don't know what i'm looking at here besides a black screen and what appears to be a stuck pixel in the center and the tip of a cursor in the lower right-hand corner. the bright spot is typical of IPS/AFFS/PVA displays. some are better than others.
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Uh ok wow. I used CCFL screen (on Dell XPS laptop) quite a bit but it never looked like that. Is it normal for the screen to "leak" the yellow all over the screen, when you open the laptop lid? (so basically using minimal pressure on the screen)
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there seems to be quite a lot of light leakage around the top right corner... usually the light leakage are close to white colour, your one has yellowish tinge.
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Yeah, and it's not only the leakage that's bothering me. So I tried to take another 2 photos. One (left) is just laptop sitting, the other (right) is me gently closing the lid with my hand and taking a photo with my other hand. You can't see my hand on the photo.
Both of them taken from the same spot with the same camera settings (ISO 1600, f/5.6, 1/4 sec exposure) just to show the difference. Sorry its blurry, but that's what I meant when I said the yellow leaks when I touch the screen. It's the same photo I made in paint (just black image). It just doesn't seem normal. Also thanks for all the advice! I really appreciate it as this is my first AFFS screen so I'm not really sure what to expect and what is considered OK. The screen is not blue in reality - the blacks are really good this is just photography artifact - but the yellow leak on the photo is identical as what you would see in reality. -
It looks pretty normal just sitting there. Are going to use it with your hand on the back of the screen?
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No, of course not!
My only worry about it, is that this (if it is a) defect may become worse with time.... and that it will look like the picture on the right without me touching it.
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I think if I had a crystal ball, I'd be a lot richer.
You can always get another screen or put the old one back. Why get fussy before there's a problem? -
Well, mainly because I bought it of a guy through eBay. And there may not be a support if a problem develops in a month or so. In that case it's also harder to prove you didn't cause it. I'm fussy because when I spend $200 on the screen, I expect it to be working good.
But yeah, I have put the old one with the LED board and the cable on the shelf as a backup. -
such light leakage when you try to close the LCD means either there is lot of pressure on the LCD or that there is some defects in the panel itself.
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Yeah, I don't like how it looks. I contacted the seller and he offered the full refund if I return the screen - the guy seems honest enough. So I'll be returning it. I'll keep the inverter and the CCFL cable, just in case I reconsider at some point or find a great deal. CCFL cable will go for the replacement as the ThinkLight doesn't work (the seller agreed to replace it if they have another one).
After two days of using this AFFS screen, I just switched back to stock screen. Here's my brief summary in comparing these two screens AFFS BOE Hydis HV121WX4-120 (matte) and AUO stock (keeping in mind I might have gotten a "different" screen?):
AFFS pros:
- Excellent contrast and black levels
- Very good color saturation
- Amazing viewing angles, where black stays "black" almost 0 to 180 degrees (it doesn't turn into "reflective" blue or white)
- matte screen just shines under bright conditions, I used in the very bright classroom and every tiny bit of the screen was perfectly readable; this would also be amazing for the tablet
AFFS cons:
- A bit lower max brightness (~by 20% or so)
- Colors are quite a bit more inaccurate than the stock screen. I just haven't been able to get a good color profile and I really, really tried tinkering with everything.
- While the black color looks really good, there's also noticable yellow leak on the edges. Apparently this is normal, but just looks ugly and especially noticable on dark images as the blacks are really black here
- 20-40% reduction in battery life with CCFL over LED. For me, that translated into a whole hour of battery life at minimum up to roughly 2 hours at max! Doing regular tasks like writing reports with Maximum Performance power plan I get around 4.5-5.5 hours with LED screen and 2.5-3.5 with AFFS / CCFL. -
discreteuniverse Notebook Consultant
The IPS display on the x200 interests me, but the ones I've seen for sale are glossy and I'm just not interested in glossy displays. Can this mod be done with a matte screen?
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Yes. The screen part number HV121WX4-120, but you're looking at spending at least $200 if you can find one. They do occasionally come up on eBay in the $200 range. The glossy versions are much more plentiful and less expensive.
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discreteuniverse Notebook Consultant
Thanks. I don't have an X200 yet, but it's good to know the mod is possible.
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Yeah the mod is possible. In case you have LED screen, there are two other parts that need replacement (LCD cable and CCFL inverter).
I had "120" matte version, but I ended up returning it. I didn't have glossy versions, so I can't really compare them... but $210 is how much I paid + $35-$40 total for the other two parts. Including the huge amount of time I spent trying to calibrate it properly (yes, I know I can buy a professional calibrator for >=$100), which was eventually unsuccessful. I really couldn't justify spending that much, but I kept the inverter+cable in case I find the screen very cheap and the time to play with the mod. IMO, the upgrade is worth $50-$100 total (max). Even if it was perfectly calibrated, the screen is light years away from RGB LED screens you can find in other laptops. I used the affs screen for 2 days, then went back to stock screen and it didn't really feel like a lost that much (besides good black colors). -
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I'm planning on doing the AFFS mod soon, I have a x200 with part#42T0714 and FRU#42T0715 for the panel. Can someone tell me what back light it uses? I was under the impression that all x200's had ccfl back lights, but some googling leads me to believe the panel on my x200 is a led backlight. Thanks
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Pictures of X200AFFS-X200 equipped with Flexview screen
Discussion in 'Lenovo' started by zephir, Mar 27, 2009.