--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

Happy Holidays to you too!

Thank you! It was much easier than expected. The speakers seemed to be fine, so I just put a velcro strip under the keyboard and the vibration is now apparently gone .

 

so which one is best for the GT780DX?

 

Many cordless phones operate on the 2.4ghz band and can interfere with notebook wifi on the same band.They're usually on channel 11 so avoid the channel of your wirelss phone if you have one.

The GT780 series Intel130N stock wireless card is a 2 antenna 150Mbps single band 2.4ghz wireless card with Bluetooth 3.0.

It can easily be replaced with an Intel Advanced N 6230 300Mbps Duel Band wireless card that also has Bluetooth 3.0

Without Bluetooth the 2 antenna 300Mbps Duel Band choices are the Intel 6205 or the Bigfoot Killer 1102.A USB Bluetooth dongle can be used for the times when you may need Bluetooth.

To replace the wireless card it's a simple procedure of poping up the control bar carefully as not to disconnect the ribbon cable that's just to the left of the power button and wireless card that are in the center>remove 1 screw holding down the wireless card and disconnecting the 2 antenna wires.

Use a plastic tool,guitar pick or knife,so not to mar the plastic.

Put the new wireless card in the mini PCI-e slot that you removed the old card from,replace the screw and attach the 2 antennas....Black wire(primary)on connector #1 and the gray wire(aux)on connector #2.

Put the Controll Bar back.

Check your connection strength with inSSIDer program and speedtest.net

http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/

http://speedtest.net/

You can test your download speed by getting a Windows 7 ISO from Digital River.

 

i picked the 3000 and it works great, look pleasing to the eyes also.

 

Exact same issue I'm facing with my GT780R!
MSI keeps telling me to report to warranty, although that's what caused it!
Poor reassembly from the useless warranty claim I passed through..

UPDATE:
Opened it up the same way Ken wrote, It seems that the sound is gone as soon as the keyboard gets out of its bed, but as soon as it comes back, the sound returns.
My guess is that the keyboard isn't stable from the corners. (See pictures)








I can't think of a way to fix that, except with double sided tape, which I wont use.

 

Bought the 3000S!

Thanks

 

Thanks so much, I didn't realize replacing the nic was so easy. I'll upgrade asap.

 

Hey guys!

Just got my new GT780DX, and everything works like a charm!

I just have one question though, wondering if someone could help me. When you press the function key for volume control, a pop up always shows up. Is there any way this could be minimized, or not shown up at all? While gaming, it pops up, and minimizes my current game, or while watching a video, it blocks the whole screen.

Thanks for the help!

 

This is an issue with MSI's brillant star-dock idea. Unfortunately, disabling the star-dock also disables useful functions like ejecting the dvd drive. Poor design in my opinion.

 

I agree, but I have it disabled and the and still can use many of the functions. The only one that I miss is the dvd eject button, which I only use a couple of times a year anyway.

 

Again. you don't need the S-bar to eject the drive.

Just go to My Computer and press your DVD drive icon and it will automatically eject (if you don't have any DVD in it).

 

If you like and use the popular CCleaner program but find it always removes the S-Bar from the Start Menu and the Star from your desktop try adding it to excude in the CCleaner Options.

In Options>Exclude>Add>Drive or Folder>browse to C rogram Data/Microsoft?Windows/Start Menu/Programs/S-Bar

Click OK

*If you don't see the Program Data Folder then go to Control Panel>Folder Options>View

Here you need to check 'Show hidden files' and uncheck 'hide extensions for known file types'.

 

If you don't care how it looks, many of my customers use the standard optical drive bezel with eject buttons, so they don't have to use S-Bar program:

Blu-ray Bezel Faceplate Front for Laptop Optical Drive | eBay

 

I wouldn't mind that using that bezel if it actually fit the slot. However, as the slot on the MSI is more of a wedge, I can see this having a wide empty space near the back.

 

Hello All....I am very close to preordering the upcoming MSI 783 from xotic....either that or a Sager...one of the things I absolutely loved about my Sager was the solid solid build quality....Even 3.5 years after I owned it..the lid hinges were still tight as can be when opening...can anyone here give me any feedback on how the MSI's measure up?? To all who have owned one.....what can you tell me? Thanks in advance!

 

Anyone having sound skipping issues with the latest Realtek drivers? I'm playing BF3 and it seems like every few minutes I get a skip & wicked squelching. Didn't seem to happen until I installed the last version.

 

Actually I did (assuming we had the same problem). -- GT780DXR as well.

After my reformat (Win7 x64) whenever I installed the latest sound drivers I was getting audible pops and crackling each time that there was a GPU frequency change.

I ended up downgrading to the drivers that came bundled on the driver disk that came with the machine, and my issues went away (no other driver changes).


EDIT: In hindsight, I probably should've tried playing around with the PCI Latency setting in bios. It may be worth reinstalling them for the sake of seeing if dedicating more time to a device helps.

 

Thanks for the link Ken.

The above suggestion by Sammyc51 is good enough for me, I think I have only opened the dvd drive 2 times since I received the notebook in June.

 

Wondering what types of temperatures that you guys are getting in your machines.

Since people often seem to speak of even overclocking the 570m in the MSI GT780, that seems to indicate that there's headroom in terms of temperatures. ... Which has me slightly concerned of my GPU load temps.


MSI GT780-DXR
Intel Core i7-2760QM
GTX570m

--So far the only two games that I've played on the machine are Crysis 2 and Deus Ex. The following are at stock clock frequencies with an ICD paste applied by GenTech.

Deus Ex, highest settings @ 1920x1080, Turbo Fan ON:
GPU temp after extended playing (2 hours), 79c

Crysis 2, extreme @ 1920x1080, Turbo Fan ON:
GPU temp, 83c


Are these normal temperature levels for full fanspeed? (ambient temp is 70F)

I'm currently using a Zalman NC2000 cooler and expecting that I may need a more beefy cooling pad.

EDIT: cooling pad actually doesn't seem to make any difference in temps. (1c)

Reason I ask is I see all these posts of people saying that their system never exceeds 70c under load. *However, I also suspect that their definition of load isn't games like Crysis 2, heh.


Granted .. I doubt Crysis 2 should make a laptop as hot as Prime95 + Furmark or other artificial stress test scenarios.



EDIT 2:

Forcing the 570m to 500mhz seems to help keep temps under control, and gets them down to 74c in Deus Ex (while still getting 60fps). Can't seem to touch voltage with MSI Afterburner or NVidia inspector though.

Is undervolting possible without bios modification? For games that don't need horsepower, I figure slowing down the card is best.

EDIT 3:

CoolerMaster SF-19, or NZXT Cryo LX? Both seem like they'd do a good job with the laptop due to having massive airflow towards the top of the cooling pad.

--I'm hoping for / aiming to get peak load temps in games to 70c. (so that the laptop has a decent lifespan)

 

I have been playing BF3 with the gpu overclocked at 710/1420/1800, after 4 hours the max temp that reach is 84°c. Turbo ON, turbo fan ON, WIFI ON, stock termal paste.

I think It is a good temp for such a demanding game, but better I consult you guys

Its a good temp or will reduce the gpu's life?

 

The general saying is that every 10c hotter that a component runs reduces its life in half. That said, 84c isn't going to kill a GPU, but it's getting up there..

--I personally wouldn't feel comfortable over 80c if the machine was used as your primary gaming computer and on a 24/7 basis.


Other thing to keep in mind is ambient temps that you're getting that at. You may want to use an onscreen display with MSI Afterburner for instance, so that you can track temps if gaming mobile and anywhere warmer.

 

Intel state on their 45nm process a high temperature product will wear out after 5 years, 7 years for standard. In a desktop with a massive cooler you are looking at 12 years.

That's running at 100% load for the entire life of the chip.

 

Well, I phoned the company I bought the MSI laptop from.

I explained my keyboard problem and they said that there is a possibility that the keyboard has a "short circuit".

Now it will take them TWO up till THREE weeks to just replace the keyboard which I personally think is a disgrace.

The only problem is that I don't wanna wait that long for a keyboard replacement....but I can't live with this problem....

 

Call MSI and make them send you a replacement keyboard.

 

For anyone on the fence about buying one of these laptops, I say go for it. Screen, amazing. Loading speeds, top notch. Speed and detail in games, unbelievable.
I've been playing Skyrim, Borderlands and the Witcher 2 so far, Skyrim and Borderlands play in ultra with no problems, the Witcher 2 I need to crank up the overclock a little bit but it still runs brilliantly.

Anyone who has problems with the eject DVD button, it might not be just the S-bar, but if you have any program that creates virtual drives and you don't turn them off, that could be the source of your worries. And also, turn off any programs using the optical drive first or it won't open.

I got to open this beast up on Xmas eve and having stopped playing with it since, it's brilliant!

Much thanks to Ken for his help in my order, great service.

 

Thanks for that, I hadn't realized that the default CDRom drive changed whenever I installed PowerISO. (virtual CDRom took the lower drive letter)

--Swapping around the lettering allowed the eject button to function with S-Bar.

 

I am thinking about ordering the GT780 from Best Buy since I got about $1000 worth of gift cards there from Christmas. I do have a couple questions regarding it however. I understand that I can upgrade the GPU down the road but will it only be upgradeable to the 500 series or can I upgrade to the 600 series? I also see that quite a few people have had problems with the keyboard. Has that been fixed or is it still a issue? Lastly, the Best Buy version has the 570m with 1.5 gb of DDR5. Is that going to be a problem or is 1.5gb enough for the current games? I was planning on upgrading the card in about a year or so.

Thank you

 

A recent order of mine (for xmas) has some pretty major keyboard problems. Yet, this could've simply been luck of the draw.

--That said ... it seems to be a mixed bag between people that have problems and those that don't (some people swear by the keyboard and call it excellent).

Ken is getting me taken care of (GenTech), yet I can't really say for certain if it's a fluke or not until I get a replacement keyboard to test with.


The thread I'd created is this one:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi/634622-keyboard-skipping-gt780dxr-looking-confirmation.html


All said and done, it's a very nice machine. Certainly worth it, yet there's no guarantee that you won't run into similar issues. Granted, all computer parts have occasional defects & quirks.


>> I understand that I can upgrade the GPU down the road but will it only be upgradeable to the 500 series or can I upgrade to the 600 series?

--If the 600 series is the same type of module, and has similar thermal / power requirements, it may be possible to pop it in there. (this isn't something really easy to predict far as future compatibility)

>> Lastly, the Best Buy version has the 570m with 1.5 gb of DDR5. Is that going to be a problem or is 1.5gb enough for the current games?

1.5gigs is enough for even Crysis 2 in 2560x1600 with the high res texture pack. You should be fine driving a second monitor in addition to the laptop display, or a 1600p monitor, in ALL current games on the market at maximum settings. (more than sufficient frame buffer space)

I wouldn't worry about it personally as you probably won't be able to find a > 1600p display that can be driven by HDMI anyway. Even if you did, the 570m wouldn't have sufficient horsepower to drive resolutions where memory is a problem.

 

Hey guys, need a little help. Maybe it's silly asking here, as people here will most likely like MSI better than the ASUS, as you fellas are probably biased, but here it goes anyway:

I wanted to buy the ASUS g74x for a while now, but some circumstances have come up, maybe preventing me to do so, so I was looking at the MSI 780DX ( With the 2.2 i7-2670QM, 6gm ram, 1.5 gb 570m, 750gb 7200rpm hdd, matte screen).

Now the g74sx is: 2.2 ghz i7-2670QM, 8gm ram, 3gb 560m, 2x500 gb hdd, glossy screen.

Now problem is, these two look very alike to me. BUT the asus, imo, looks better, and costs about 10000NOK (about 1700$), while the MSI is a bit uglier (though I like this one a lot more than the previous!) and costs 13000 NOK (about 2200$). I mean, the leap in performance is not worth 500$ is it?? The better graphics card in the msi, but is it that much better? Matte screen is something I would like, but it even has 2gb less ram, and 250 less gb of hdd-space.

What do you guys think? I think I'm paying some extra $$ just for the msi name, and that sucks. Also is there space in the comp to install an ssd-drive in addition to the 750gb one that's already in there? And is this easy to do for someone who's never done it before?

I mean, I probably won't get the ASUS, but I'm not sure if I have the conscience to let my mom pay 500$ extra for the same/worse comp? Maybe I should just drop the whole project and get some other, cheaper and worse, comp?

I don't buy laptops often, and I just want one that will "easily" (meaning, I won't have to think about low settings in anything, and be able to enjoy the pc, and not think about needing new graph. card, faster cpu etc.) last me for 3-4-5 years, and not one that will kill my soul in 2, and then I'll fight through the 3rd year and then get a new one hopefully after that (like my last 2 comps).

EDIT: I just saw under specs that the RAM speed (or whatever it is?) is 1333 Mhz for the ASUS and 667 Mhz for the MSI, so it's 8gb ddr3 1333mhz vs 6gb ddr3 667 Mhz now. I have no idea what that is, but 667 looks a lot like half of 1333 Mhz, haha. What is this, and should it worry/interest me?

 

DDR3 running at 667mhz = DDR1333mhz (hence Double Data Rate)

 

Yes but, the one spec says SO-DIMM DDR3 1333 MHz (G74sx), and the other: DDR3 667 MHz (780dx). Aren't both DDR3?

Maybe the store wrote it wrong? I am guessing the ram hasn't gone downwards in their new machine.

 

DDR3 333mhz (666 DDR) does not exist.

 

Is it just me, or the keyboard on this laptop is most terrible, despite all the advertising around it?

The issue I'm having is that some keystrokes, especially closer to key edges, just don't register even though there is tactile feedback. That is, it feels like you pressed a key but you actually didn't. This generates TONS of typos all over the place.

Here's a little video of what I'm talking about: Keyboard issue on MSI GT780DX - YouTube . I checked whether same would be true for my work laptop (HP), and it's not the case - you can't "kind of press" a key, when you feel you pressed it it registers.

P.S. This happens to all (or most) keys, so it's not like my Q key is defective. Whenever I type a sentence, I see that I missed like 5 letters all over the place. Maybe my keystroke is light, but hey, I have no issues on other laptops, and then again, the key does go all the way in...

 

braindancer:

That's pretty worrying as that's EXACTLY the same issue that most keys on my keyboard have. I can't code worth a darn with VS, because 30%+ of my keystrokes don't register.


In my case however, I should add that it's not the light-ness of keystrokes. Keys don't register regardless the power in the press.

 

SO-DIMM -- small outline dual in-line memory module

It's basically just a compact memory module, a smaller form factor for notebook computers or SFF PC's (such as Nettops).

-In the case of the G74SX and GT780, both should use the same type of memory, yes. The listings are just different.

 

I think you're right, I just double-checked and if I press a corner of a key, it doesn't register no matter how hard I press.

I think what's happening is that the surface of the key goes down at an angle, and while the corner (where I press) is all the way down, the center (where the sensor sits) is not. This is very poor design. The way the keys on other laptops are designed, the top surface is actually smaller than the "foot" of the key, so there is no way you can actually put your finger on the actual corner.

Here's a crude schematic of what I think is wrong with this keyboard. (I know it is actually more complex than a simple spring, but that's not the point.) The "good keyboard" is just one of the possible solutions that HP has used, but there are others that work as well (IBM, for example, uses sloped sides of keys, so each key is basically a trapezoid.)

 

Interesting consept braindancer.

 

I may be completely off, but what I do know is that the keyboard is barely usable. Even writing this two-sentence comment required an extra proof-read.

 

Well, regardless what's wrong I somehow have the feeling that most users would be complaining if they had our same situations (which clearly isn't always the case). I'm hoping that we're just the unlucky minority.


There's a new keyboard enroute (for my laptop), and that may very well clear things up. I'll post the hopefully good news within a few days.

 

Ugh this is getting incredibly frustrating

My laptop charger stopped working, and playing with the cord and having it at the right angle solved that problem for me
It's getting increasingly worse and I need a new charger
I called MSI, they said they are out of the accessory and want me to send in my laptop
I can't send in my laptop, so fine I'd rather just get a new charger from some store

Problem is I can't find a laptop charger to fit this machine, so anybody know where online I can order one or what would be a good one to buy?

 

WHQL Intel RST v11.0.0.1032

intel drivers pour Raid/Sata/Ata/Ahci

www.station-drivers.com &bull; Afficher le sujet - Driver: Intel RST Version 11.0.0.1032 WHQL

Release Notes:
Intel® Rapid Storage Technology

Intel also released their first USB 3 Controller drivers.

See the Read Me in the unpacked 7Z file.
intel drivers pour chipsets

 

Joined the forums today after 4 months of owning the MSI GT780R; love the computer but it's been having some problems since day 1 that have gotten worse lately. I've run memtest pro a few times discovered one of my sticks of ram is bad, since i have 4 sticks i had to open the case and check each one (was the last one i checked..>.>) I've got the bad ram pulled; but now i have a new problem. The console above the keyboard has this one strip of wires connecting it to the case, and it got pulled out somehow. I can push it back in and give the console power again but I can't close it up again without it losing power. Can you give me any tips or ideas how to keep the strip secure?

 

There is a locking piece on the top of the socket for that ribbon. Once you have the ribbon reseated, make sure you push that lock down.

 

I feel like such a 'tard, thank you so much. However, there's a second problem. Windows only sees 8 gigs of ram, it should be seeing 12 gigs. To be precise it's only seeing the ram under the keyboard. I'm checking again now that the console has been fixed if that may have been the issue.

 

The ribbon cable under the control bar connects to the motherboard and control bar and is secured in place by little black levers.

If the cable comes off stick it back into the slot and then press the black lever down to lock the ribbon cable in place.

In this instance small fingers are a good thing to have.

Many owners lift up the control bar to remove the keyboard or replace the wireless card.If you lift the control bar off the notebook too far the ribbon cable will come off.

Wow,looks like I type much to slow.It's already been answered.

By having 12GB of memory in 3 4GB modules the 2 modules under the keyboard are running in duel channel mode but the single 4GB module in the bottom slot is in single channel.

 

This is the one time I'm glad for having small fingers. It's locked in place and everything seems to be working; except for the not seeing the ram under the computer; but if that's not an easy fix I think i'll live with 8 gigs of ram until i get someone who knows what they're doing.

 

I have 16Gb(4GB x 4).

I just took 1 module out from the bottom and I have 12Gb now when I right click on Computer icon>properties.

Try taking the one in the bottom out and then reseat it fully so the side holders are in the notches in the sides of the module.

If it doesn't show up it may also be defective.

 

I'll have to check again tomorrow. I've got work in the morning and already put everything back to together. Thanks again for the help; I'll make sure to put an update tomorrow.

 

Ha,it's already Thursday 2PM in the afternoon here in Seoul.

 

I'm not sure, but don't they have to be in pairs?