--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

If you mean the rubber stopper, it's available at rk computers!

 

Has anyone installed a SSD using only the rubber insert that is provided? I was told that you do not need a bracket to install a SSD and you only need that piece of rubber to keep the drive in place.

 

You only need the provided rubber stopper for your 2nd hard drive whether it be an SSD or mechanical drive.

 

Attached is a picture of a complete hard drive bracket kit purchased directlty from MSI service center in Seoul for $10.

Bracket
Hard Rubber Block
2 screws

 

I'm a little confused. I have not received my computer yet but I customized it with only one 750gb HD and was planning on adding a Crucial M4 in a month or two. Do I have to install that SSD into hard drive bay number one that my 750gb currently occupies or can I install it into hard drive bay number two and if I can, will I be able to install it only using the provided rubber stop? Obviously I want to install Windows onto the SSD but I don't know if I can tell the BIOS to boot from drive bay number two. Also, does it matter which drive bay I use?

 

It's the plastic piece that clips onto the disk drive (Not hard drive), it keeps vibrating against the sides of the laptop surrounding the opening.
It only happens when the drive reads disks.

 

Are you talking about the faceplate of the DVD/BD optical drive?

DVD and BD drives spin up to very high revolutions that causes some vibration.A warped disk can cause a lot of vibration

A screw on the bottom of the notebook next to the DVD drive icon in the plastic secures the drive or is taken out so the drive can be removed from the notebook.

 

The boot drive can be in either of the 2 interior bays and your system will boot to it 1st if it's ahead of the other drive in the bios boot order.

I don't like the rubber block cheap solution that's why I bought a 2nd bracket and would recommend getting one or making a bracket.

There's alot of new SSDs coming out with newer controllers and memory.

 

Perfect. This is the information I was looking for. I kinda figured that the rubber stop was just a cheap solution that pretty much just wedged the drive in place. Even though I would think it would be fine for a SSD since it's not moving, the bracket still seems to be the better solution. That way, I know it's being held in place. Thank you for the information. Where did you say I could get a extra bracket from for $10?

 

I'm a transplanted New Yorker working In Seoul,Korea.

I got it here in Seoul at the MSI notebook service center.

 

I have video about the 2nd hard drive and rubber stop, personally I think it's secured when the bottom cover is on:

MSI GT780R/GT780DXR buttom cover off and 2nd hard drive - YouTube

My friend is in charge both Russia and China service center, you guys are pretty close.

 

I just finished spending a few hours working on my my month old GT780DXR. My major problem was the power would shut off it the plug in on the back of the laptop was even mildly tapped. I stripped the unit down quite a bit to where I could solder to the power socket inside the laptop. I was not as hard as I thought it would be to get it open and lots of solder seems to have solved the problem. I do think I will either hot glue or epoxy the power socket inside the laptop and hope for the best. I also swapped out the matte screen for the glossy one of the same model. It is much brighter and it is way nicer in my opinion.

 

I'm one of those guys that's sometimes need to see it for themselves until they can become a believer.

I took the bracket off my secondary boot drive,a V3 MI,and tried different ways to install the drive using the rubber block.

I found that by putting the block in place first and then placing a small kitchen knife between the drive and the block while pushing down and foward on the drive worked well for me.

The drive seems to be very secure with the rubber block in place.

 

Hi

I got the Gt780Dxr through the post yesterday. Everything is working great apart from the backlit Keyboard.
Nothing happens when I press the button on the laptop, if I double click on the Klm icon on the desktop nothing happens there either. I can get into the Klm software if I right click on it In the system tray and click setting.

Any help would be great. Thanks

 

Hi i would to ask you people whether upgrading to Glossy is worth it ?

It cost 185$ over matte screen

MSI GT783

 

Hi All,

I’ve had my GT780DXR-446US for a few weeks now (thanks again, Ken!) and on the whole I am very pleased with it. The S-Bar, however, has been getting on my nerves since day one (along with the KLM and OSD, although those have been to a somewhat lesser extent, admittedly). I’m not really a big fan of that ‘orrible blue star on my desktop and (even worse) if I ever have to alt tab through applications I need to pass over both the S-Bar and the KLM to get where I need to go (which I find frightfully annoying).

As many of you are no doubt already aware; the S-Bar application is required to use the touch sensitive keys for the NVIDIA Overclock Tool; the turbo fans and the eject button, etc. Whilst you can minimize the application (via taskmgr or whatever) to hide that awful looking star and its associated menu, you can’t actually remove it (or stop it from running) without losing the functionality of the touch bar and the function keys.

It seems that I’m not the only one who is a little miffed by this; the official MSI forums are awash with complaints and I was unable to find any kind of resolution for this issue (I see that some people have even contacted MSI support directly about this, again without success).

Anyway, after a bit of head scratching and OS tinkering I have found a way to keep the functionality of the touch sensitive buttons, the function keys and the KLM whilst losing the star from the desktop and the S-Bar and KLM programs from the ‘Applications’ menu of taskmgr (i.e. when you hit alt tab they will no longer appear in the list of choices) and the Notification Area. Basically, you can achieve this by running the two applications as services within Windows 7, rather than as startup applications.

Please note, however, that YOU WILL LOSE THE OSD FUNCTIONALITY if you do this. If you like having the OSD then this “fix” is definitely not for you (having said that, this process is very easy to reverse, so you may wish to try it out anyway if you consider this to be a small price to pay). Also, you will need to start the KLM application manually if you wish to change your color scheme (as it will no longer be in your System Tray).

Also, YMMV in doing any or all of this: I have a very “plain vanilla” clean re-install of Windows 7 64-bit on my GT780DXR and I do not have the ability to recreate all of your installations. If in doubt, DO NOT TRY ANY OF THIS (especially if you’re not very technical; whilst all of this is very easy to undo you don’t really want to be messing with services if you don’t understand some of the fundamentals behind all of this).

Anyway, with all of the above in mind, on with the show…

1) Download the attached ‘NTRK.zip’ file and extract its contents to your desktop (all this archive contains is the instsrv.exe and srvany.exe files from Microsoft’s ‘Windows NT Resource Kit’; if you’re overly paranoid about Interwebz downloads and you want to get the official package, you can point your browser to http://www.microsoft.com/download/en/details.aspx?id=17657).

2) Navigate to C:\Program Files (x86)\ and create a folder called ‘Windows NT Resource Kit’ (hypothetically you can create this wherever you want and name it whatever you want; knock yourselves out if you have a preference).

3) Copy the unzipped instsrv.exe and srvany.exe files to the new directory that you have just created.

4) Open a command prompt as an administrator (i.e. go to ‘Start’ -> ‘All Programs’ -> ‘Accessories’, right click on ‘Command Prompt’ and select ‘Run as administrator’ .

5) Type ‘msconfig’, hit enter and then navigate to the ‘Startup’ tab of the window that appears. Uncheck the boxes next to ‘S-Bar’ and ‘MSI Keyboard LED Manager’, click ‘OK’ and then choose ‘Exit without restart’ (this stops the “standard” S-Bar and KLM applications from loading when a user logs in; we’ll be setting them up as services so that they are actually running at system boot for everyone).

6) Back on the administrator’s command prompt type the following, including the quotes (obviously replace the paths if you’ve put the files elsewhere):

“C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\instsrv.exe” “MSI S-Bar” “C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\srvany.exe”

You should see a message stating ‘The service was successfuly added!’ at this stage. If you do not see this message my ability (and availability) to troubleshoot your issue will be very limited and you’re probably better off hitting up Google. I can tell you, however, that if you put instsrv.exe and srvany.exe in a “funny” location (i.e. System32, like a lot of people recommend) you may experience issues (hence why I suggest a sub-directory of ‘Program Files (x86)’ instead).

7) To set up the KLM application as a service, type the following, including the quotes:

“C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\instsrv.exe” “MSI KLM” “C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\srvany.exe”

Again, you should see ‘The service was successfuly added!’ (and yes, Microsoft have indeed made a spelling mistake here).

8) Back on the command prompt, type ‘regedit’ to open the Registry Editor (you do know that you should back up your registry first, yes?)

9) Navigate to ‘HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services’ and scroll down to the new keys (they’re in alphabetical order).

10) Right click on the ‘MSI S-Bar’ entry, select ‘New’ -> ‘Key’ and then type “Parameters” (without the quotes) in the new entry that appears.

11) Right click on the new ‘Parameters’ key, select ‘New’ -> ‘String Value’ and then type “Application” (again without the quotes).

12) Right click on the new ‘Application’ entry, select ‘Modify…’ and then enter the full path to your S-Bar executable (i.e ‘C:\Program Files (x86)\S-Bar\S-Bar.exe’, but do not include any quotes as I have).

13) Repeat steps 9 -12 (above) for the ‘MSI KLM’ registry entry and make sure that in step 12 you supply the correct path to your KLM executable (i.e ‘C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI\KLM\KLM.exe’ .

14) Close the ‘Registry Editor’ and go back to the command prompt: Type ‘services.msc’, make sure that both of your new services are all present and correct and that their ‘Startup Type’ is set to ‘Automatic’.

If all appears to be well, reboot your laptop. When it comes back up you should find that your keyboard lights up correctly, that all of the function and touch bar buttons work (and light up correctly, etc.), that alt tabbing doesn’t show the applications anymore and that your OSD has ceased to work (a somewhat unfortunate side effect that may be a deal breaker for some of you; I personally can live without it).

Incidentally, if you decide that none of this is for you (or if you encounter problems after reboot, etc.) simply do the following:

1) Bring up an administrator command prompt (see point 4 above) and type ‘services.msc’: Stop both of the ‘MSI S-Bar’ and ‘MSI KLM’ services.

2) Back on the command prompt type ‘msconfig’ and then recheck the boxes next to ‘S-Bar’ and ‘MSI Keyboard LED Manager’ (under the ‘Startup’ tab of the window that appears). Select ‘OK’ and then ‘Exit without restart’.

3) Type the following back on the command prompt (hit ‘Enter’ after each line):

“C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\instsrv.exe” “MSI S-Bar” REMOVE
“C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit\instsrv.exe” “MSI KLM” REMOVE

4) Delete the ‘C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows NT Resource Kit’ directory.

5) Reboot your laptop.

Your system will now be back to how it was originally, with no harm done (the above should even remove the registry keys in question). You could even just stop the services and set their ‘Startup Type’ to ‘Manual’ if you only want them to be running at certain times (i.e. gaming). You could then manually start the standard KLM and S-Bar applications and use them as normal, and then switch to their service incarnations when you wish to.

Hopefully this will be of use to some of you, either now or in the future (although I do apologize for the length of this post; it was somewhat inevitable).

If the eagle eyed amongst you spot any typos in any of the above, please let me know so that I may update this post accordingly, thank you.

PS: Please note that any posts along the lines of "omgbbq u broke my comp" will be duly ignored: If you don't understand half of the above DO NOT TRY THIS!

 

There ya go Ken! Don't forget to add a butter knife to the GT780/GT783 tool kit arsenal! Post another pic of your tool kit, LOL!

 

It depends...... and is a matter of personal preference.

The glossy screen is highly reflective. Can you live with a lot of background reflections? Many find this annoying, and find the matte screen a blessing in this regard. Matte screens do take a bit of getting used to, as color will appear somewhat washed out (almost gray-scale) by comparison, however the color is still nice, and looks good with videos or gaming.

If deeper, richer, more 'eye-popping' color is more important (and you don't mind spending the extra money), then I would suggest the 90% color gamut screen over the matte screen.

Personally, I would opt for the 95% color gamut matte screen (like the GT683), if it were available in 17.3". That would be a nice 'best-of-both-worlds' option, but presently just wishful thinking.

It's a 'trade-off'..... background reflections vs. color depth appearance. Which will it be? You could always save the money now, see what you think of the matte screen, and swap out to a glossy screen later if need be. Many find the matte screen wholly acceptable.

 

Been waiting on the Samsung 830 series 128GB drives to become readily available from a reputable retailer. Got an email from B&H that they have them in stock and ordered one. I know several on here were interested in this particular drive.

 

Ken, thank you responding. I completely trust your word and am glad to see that the rubber stop works well. You just saved me $35 as I was about to order the bracket. I now fully understand how the rubber stop works.

Now get my computer done before I call you again asking to add something else.

 

a heads up for Crucial M4 users like me:

 

$185 for the glossy screen over a matte screen is a rip off. They are actually worth the same. I know I will be getting another glossy screen hoping it wont have dirt trapped in the TN layers. That will cost me abut $150 delivered maybe a bit more. I do think it is worth it in the value of enjoyment you will get but that retailer sounds like a fly by night crook unless he is giving you the matte screen in a box with it.

 

This seemed to do the trick to get the Ubuntu/Kubuntu LiveCD to boot on my new MSI GT780DX. I registered just to say thanks for posting your details and to confirm that it works! You saved me a lot of time and headache.

 

Hi this is my desktop monitor , is it a glossy or a matte ?

I had been used this for 5 years

 

Time is money.

When you have someone do the purchasing and labor for you it has a different value than if you did the ordering and installation labor yourself.

There's only a certain amount we can do ourselves.After that we need to employ others to do the work,and that comes with a price.

What's the true cost of 1 hour of labor after the worker and government get their due and the owner makes a profit so he can keep his doors open?

 

Hi this is my room set up

I have 4 dim lights above the wall

each in 1/4 of the celling

Windows in front of me ( a very bad designer did this ) But i mostly close it to avoid sun light

It will be more tidy in front once i get rid of my old desktop.

Please help me whether i should go for a matte or glossy.

I actually want both non reflective and superb colors

 

I agree. When I just got done building my MSI bare-bones through Gentech, they had a Glossy Display upgrade for $35 which is what I decided on. The difference between the $35 glossy display and the $185 glossy display is the color gamut. The $35 is 72% and the $185 is 95%. I am not a designer nor do I need super accurate colors so in my opinion, $185 is a rip off but if you are a web page designer or someone who edits a lot of photo's, I would say that the $185 display is a good value. Bottom line. My current display I've been using for 2 years is only 60% color gamut and I think it looks great so going to the 72% is going to be a upgrade in my eyes.

 

The $185 is to upgrade to the 90% glossy...it's only $35 to upgrade to a 72% glossy from xotic...which I think has been worth every penny! But I agree...the $185 was just too much for me...

 

A craftsman is only as good as his tools.

Order your MSI rubber block installation butter knife from your favorite MSI reseller.

 

Put the screen to face directly to the window on a sunny day and see how much you can see on the screen. A glossy one will be very...i dont know reflective? (sorry as i couldnt find a word to describe it)

 

Take a close up picture. This is to far away to tell. If I was a betting man, I would say that monitor which looks to be about 5-6 years old is a matte type display.

 

I can see that is matte

If only theres a selection to chose 90% ntsc anti glare .

 

There is no windows behind you so glossy should be fine for you.

 

But there are 4 dim lights above me... is it safe ????

 

LOL!

Naw, I was talking about adding the butter knife to THIS tool kit!

 

Okay since glossy is 90% NTSC

How bout MAtte ... how many % falling behind ?

Did anyone of you bought glossy ?

 

That kit as pictured is not available in my region from MSI but the Asus and Sager ones sold here are similar to it.

 

Thank you Striker for the help to that guy.

Let me just give you a quick tip on how to get the colors back to "live" again. Its easy step to do, requires ANY Nvidia drivers. Beta, Official, injected or whatever.

And may i also ask Striker to post this on the first page because as you can see it got burried and no one, expect me, remembers it. So here you go :

To fix the washed/grayed colors go to the Nvidia drivers and to the following :

Navigate to Display > Adjust desktop color settings > Go to 3. Apply the Following enhancements > Digital Vibrance > CHANGE IT TO 70%

Also check the following :

Navigate to Video > Adjust Video Color Settings > With Nvidia Settings :

Brightness - 45%
Contrast - 55%
Hue - 180
Saturation - 50%
--
> Adjust Video Image Settings > Noise Reduction > Use Nvidia Settings > 40%


Notes :

BLACK SQUARES APPEARING IN THE DARK AREAS OF FILMS/VIDEOS/GAMES CAN BE REDUCED BY 95% - Reduce the Screen Brigthness by using the Fn+Arrow down key and reduce screen brightness to 0. As for me, its too dark, but when you watch video on Youtube in Fullscreen and/or movie its much better :

PLEASE TEST THE MATTE SQUARES ON THE FOLLOWING VIDEO : E.T - Katty Perry Ft. Kanye West | Youtube - I recommend you test it yourself to see the effects of these settings.

TO TEST THE COLOR SETTING GO TO THIS VIDEO : Ke$ha - Take it of | Youtube

TO SEE THE COLORS IN THEIR FULL BEAUTY FOLLOW THE SETTING ABOVE AND USE THE FN+UP ARROW KEY TO INCREASE BRIGHTNESS TO 100%.

All testing includes and requires Cinema Pro to be turned on. But i think thats logical.

You could test it without Cinema Pro and tweak the sound but my time is golden and i dont see enough hands up so i will dedicate my golden time somewhere else, especially when my effort and time i put into this the last time was not even noted.

I hope this time it really helps someone and i am asking Striker to put this on the main page. If folks ask we can just tell them to look on the first page, its better then re-writing this every time someone asks without reading ( But i have read all of the hundred pages.... ).

If you still wonder whether its Matte or Glossy, then i guess the only way to know is buy the laptop in the first place or go into some computer store and look at Acer 3D Monitors. I think its clear that Matte screen is better, you can do all the work duting hot summer day outside and in a nice warm blowing wind and laugh at folks building a castle of books to block the sunlight or hide inside in a dark corner of their flat

 

Oh an a side note - If you think the music is G*Y or whatever, turn the volume down or turn it off completely.

The videos are for testing purposed only.

E.T by Katty Perry for itd dark atmosphere and testing the black squares and Ke$ha - Take it out for it mid to late colorful performance, thus good way to test the colors.

Thanks for reading

EDIT : Testing done at 4:57 in the morning, GMT+1 European time in completely darkened room

 

Also,

In post #3819 in this,the Official GT780 Owners Lounge,there's a custom ICC color profile for the stock GT780 series matte screen( Chimei Innolux Corporation - 17.3\"FHD(N173HGE-L11/L21)) and GTX570M combination made with a Spyder 3 that you can try.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi/584869-official-msi-gt780-gt783-owners-lounge-382.html

There's also instructions on how it apply it if you don't know how.​

 

I myself is using 22" LCD dell monitor matte for 5 years and I really don't see anything reflected so I don't know about glossy but there are 4 yellow dim lights above me

 

@ MrShadowness & WhatsThePoint:

I have added the Spyder calibration ICC profile to the lead post.

Thanks for the discussion and contribution guys! Good Stuff!



I'll be trying the ICC profile on my wife's notebook soon, but mine is currently having it's screen replaced with the 90% color gamut glossy. LOL! I have been assured, once I see this screen, there is no going back.

 

I dont see mine posted, but at least noted. Thanks

 

Striker are u using glossy or matte

 

Sorry MrShadowness, no intent to diminish your post.

Quite simply it was 'MrShadowness vs. Spyder Calibration', and Spyder won. Look at it this way, if it were not for your thoughtful post, WhatsThePoint may not have ever reminded me of the ICC profile.

Thanks!

 

I have and use both, but my aging eyes are quickly annoyed with highly reflective glossy screens.

Glossy screen - Dazzling color
Matte screen - Greatly reduced background refections

My GT780 is matte, but will soon be the 90% color gamut screen, glossy. I have been assured that this screen makes the 72% color gamut matte screen look grey-scale by comparison, and once I see the new screen, there is no turning back. The recommendation comes so highly, that I am willing to sacrifice lack of background glare, for eye-popping color. I'm a color junkie..... love my games, love my videos, love my pics...... in dazzling color.

Chances are if you have been enjoying a matte screen for 5 years, you will find the stock screen acceptable.

Most notebooks today have 70 to 72% glossy screens. Why not go to a local retailer and have a look, and see what you think? I am sure you will immediately see the differences in glossy screens vs. the matte screen you are accustom to.

 

Thanks for the reply

I went to a local shop and compare

Matte and glossy

The matte type looks greyish just like my old one but the glossy lcd monitor looks superb , its like watching in the cinema .

The color difference is easily noticeable

i think i will go with the Glossy

 

Do you guys think is it worth to spend 100$ on a upgrade ram ?

From 16GB DDR3 1333MHz to 16GB DDR3 1600MHz ?

or

8GB 1866MHz


My usage is quite above average but not high

Usage goes for games, music editing and simple video editing ...

and i run stuffs on background a lot , like 8 of them at least and the others in the taskbar.

 

I am definaly going for SSD as primary drive because some " being late " issue in class and home.

OCZ vertex 3 with MAX IOPS or without?

Pariot wild fire or SE ?

Intel 120GB 510 series ?

 

Take a peek at fellow member SIG's!