--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

I read that the Intel Advanced 6230, by the way a very good product, support up to 300mbps speeds, is that correct ?

Because i am using 120Mb internet and sadly the speeds didnt surpass 37Mb..

Now i know tons of ppl have, and i know myself that the ISP is the one causing problems but i want to be sure its not my part. If This card supports it, then i can safely call the ISP and solve it out.

 

We sell Intel, OCZ, Patriot and Samsung.

We don't have enough experience with Samsung yet to comment, and like many others have to rely on reviews and reviewers who do not have enough long term experience with them to really make intelligent comment. There are always early adopters who wax on with great enthusiasm, but for me, I will wait until we can see some longer term results.

Intel and OCZ have been out much longer and have their scars from the days early in their release. OCZ has worked hard to overcome the early deficiencies with the Sandforce controller, but the latest firmware seems to have conquered all of them. One should be careful to look at the date any particular negative or positive review was written to get a proper prospective as to whether what they are reading is 'old news' or a reflection of the current state of the product.

Our experience with Intel resembles the comments in #20 from the link above, their famous reputation for reliability notwithstanding. In addition, they have always lagged way behind in actual performance.

Since both the Patriot and OCZ products use the Sandforce controller with the same firmware update it is hard to distinguish between them in performance or endurance. For all intents and purposes they are virtually the same product with different labels on them. The OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS and Patriot Wildfire both use 3x NAND for more speed and endurance while the standard OCZ Vertex 3 and the Patriot Pyro SE (which are also virtually the same product but with different labels) and most of the rest of the Sandforce based SSDs use 2x NAND, hence their slower performance and less endurance.

The big advantage Patriot SATA III SSD's have over OCZ is you can update their firmware when using it as your boot drive. This failing in the OCZ Vertex 3 drives, that is, you have to update their firmware when the drive is a secondary drive, instead of being able to do it when booted to the drive, is really very awkward for the user. You either have to remove it and mount it as a non-boot drive on another computer to update the firmware, or have an OS installed on your storage drive if you have two drives in your laptop, boot to that drive and then update your firmware from there. Awkward

One of the advantages of the Marvel controller over the Sandforce is the Sandforce tends to lose speed after a year or two of use...but that is a bit of a false advantage in that the Marvel's start out with slower performance, and even after a couple of years, when the Sandforce has lost some of its original speed, the Sandforce is still faster than the Marvel.

A final word about speed. People tend to focus on the speed of 4k writes (IOPS) which is what most people are doing with their computers. The 3x NAND SSD's boast around 85,000 IOPS while the standard OCZ Vertex 3 or Patriot Pryo SE test out at around 60,000 IOPS. However the rub is that most users cannot write at more than about 1,000 IOPS, or if faster, it is still no where near the 60k or 85k that the drives can actually produce. Worrying about super fast IOPS speeds is kind of like buying a Ferrari to drive around the parking lot.

 

Could be your router settings, make sure set to WPA2 and 20Hz~40Hz auto.

Not that I know of:

 

oh damn " The big advantage Patriot SATA III SSD's have over OCZ is you can update their firmware when using it as your boot drive. "

Patriot im coming for you i think

wait let me consider .... sigh this is messed up and im confused

 

PHP:

As Ken said set the security to WPA2 AES.

In the D-Link Wireless Setup try N only,N + G,40HZ only,20~40HZ and see which is best.

Install inSSIDer and check the wireless networks around yours and find a channel not being used other than 11.The 11 channel is used by cordless phones on the 2.4ghz band.

inSSIDer will also show your wireless signal strength.Move around a bit to find a spot with perhaps a stronger signal.

A 3rd antenna is not difficult to add if you wanted to install a BFN 1103 or Intel 6300.

I could post pictures and instructions if enough of an interest.

Pictured are an Intel 6300,BFN 1103,and 3rd added antenna with wire through hinge.The black wire is the primary antenna wire that is located to the left of the mic inside the LCD frame.The grey wire is for the aux antenna that is to the right of the camera inside the LCD frame.The antennas are the green you see in the picture.The white wire is from the 3rd antenna I installed half way down the right side inside the LCD frame and is copper colored.

 

I am sorry i didnt say it earlier and i should delete it from sig i guess. I am not using the router because the ISP here uses WiFi modems and there is no need for router.

2) Because the router is from USA and i cant connect it to electricity here in EU it has totally different pins and sadly i didnt find any dealer selling reductions.

Same with laptop i had to use a power cable from old monitor because the original adapter is from USA.

I didnt know that USA uses different pins

 

Thank you for the explanation. Do you know if the Samsung SSD's can be updated while being the primary drive? Why would OCZ or any company for that matter not allow you to update the firmware while in the primary slot?

 

What I was really wondering is if most cases made for 17.3" laptops will fit?

 

Omg which SSD !!???

Im seriously confused.. recently i thought vertex 3 max iops or without was the best in the market but 2/3 of them complain about crashes and bsod

 

The Vertex 3 and every other OCZ. I don't think you can really crown any SSD "The best in the market".

 

Hello, I have been considering buying a Sager NP8170 for a while, but the various MSI 1761 rebrands have caught my eye recently because they offer a lot at a competitive price point (namely a matte screen and a GTX570 for just around $1100). While I am very tempted by the brushed aluminum lid and such and a 6990M upgrade on the Sager, this took me closer to $1350 (and it would be another $200 to add a matte screen), which is stretching the budget. So I'm very tempted my the MSI, but I have a few questions and I figured this was the best place to ask since the 1761 is pretty much a stripped down GT780.

How is the cooling at idle and load? A single fan cooling solution just makes me nervous when I'm used to seeing dual fans (or more) in high performance notebooks. Reports on fan noise would be appreciated too. While I know that very few laptops are quieter than the G73, I'd just like an idea how much more noise I could expect.

How sturdy is the build? I'm really kind of tired of the amount of flex in the case of my G73 and the way the screen rattles if I carry it anywhere with the screen closed. I'd also like to know if there is any reputation of problems with the power connector breaking, this is known to be a common issue on the G73 and I really don't want to have to worry about something like this anymore.

If anyone knows, the case has been described as matte in several reviews, and I just want to make sure it's matte plastic and not a hard to clean rubberized surface like on my Asus. Not sure if anyone can answer that since the GT780 models have more metallic surfaces where the 1761 has plastic.

Lastly, is it possible to upgrade to a 6990M later down the line? I know the 580M is compatible, but the more options the better. And best of all would be if next gen cards are still compatible . . .

 

He1p - you have a PM

 

The Sager and its dual fans actually run a lot hotter than the MSI. I think the Sager build with the 6990 hits 104 Celsius on Furmark while the 570 in the MSI hits 76 Celsius. I was also told by a very reputable dealer that the Clevo's use cheap fans and are louder than the ones in the MSI.

 

How hard is it to install a SSD after the fact? I've never had experience with SSD's.

I want to order the MSI GT780DX-406US, but I want to order the SSD (Patriot Wildfire 120GB) from newegg to save $85 after rebate

 

Installing an SSD or mechanical hard drive is the same because they are in the same size case with the same screw holes.

So the answer is yes, it is easy to do.

 

2/3 of WHO?

If you listen to every yo-yo on the Internet you'll never buy anything.

It is the best but others are just about as good or close.

Any SSD should be better than a platter hard drive.

There was a small amount of owners of the V3 MI and regular one,as there is with every known piece of hardware and software,that had issues.They reported BSODs.

Firmware 2.15 fixed issues that were actually related to the drivefor the vocal few.

I experienced NO bsod with any of my 3 Vertex 3 MAX IOPS SSDs,so one would have to wonder how many reports because of corrupted systems,pilot errors,user inexperience,bios support or actual bad hardware.Any way it's been fixed with a firmware update as have the Crucial M4 issues,Intel issues,Corsair issues etc etc etc.

If you get a new SSD do a clean Windows 7 installation on it for best results;don't clone from a hard drive to an SSD to avoid possible problems with TRIM and MBR issues.

A good source for SSD info:
Optimization Guides - The SSD Review

BTW,with updating firmware when the drive is not the boot drive lessens the chance of lost data and data corruption.

It's harder to update when the SSD is your only drive with an OS.

 

So do you recommend vertex 3 or max iops

 

The best SSD based on what? Reliability? Speed? I'm just having a hard time understanding how it's the best SSD for speed when Maximum PC and PC World both reported that the Samsung 830 series only lost to the Vertex 3 in one speed category. Not to mention, Samsung hasn't had to deal with any of the reliability issues that OCZ has dealt with in the past. I would rate the Crucial M4 in front of the OCZ Vertex 3 as well. I believe it is more reliable.

 

Both are good choices but I prefer drives with the Toshiba 32nm premium grade NAND flash memory as in the Patriot Wildfire,Corsair GT and OCZ V3 MI.

I like drives that have over provisioning.

I prefer drives with synchronous NAND flash memory rather than slower asynchronous NAND flash memory.

I wish there was more information about the still unavailable Intel 520 series SSDs.

Top 5 Most Frequent Drive Accesses by Type and Percentage( http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb896646)
.
-8K Read (7.60%)
.
-8K Write (56.35%)
.
-1K Write (6.10%)
.
-16K Write (5.79%)
.
-64K Read (2.49%)

Top 5 account for: 78.33% of total drive access

So the sequential read and writes you see in Crystal Disk Mark are important about 1% of the time and the 4K most of the time.

 

Yes...EXACTLY the point!

 

This review just seals the deal. Samsung 830 it is. If you don't want to read the whole review, skip to the real world tests in which the 830 owns SandForce. Or if you don't want to read the review at all, Toms Hardware crowns the 830.

60/64 GB SSD Shootout: Crucial, Samsung, And SandForce : Which 64 GB SSD Is The Best?

 

That's 64gb

 

Donald hit the nail on the head;installing new drives,changing drivepositions and removing drives is fairly simple.

Just remove 7 screws that secure the bottom cover onto the notebook and then lift it off by grasping it where it meets the rear of the notebook and pull up.

Pictured are a single stock WD 750GB 7200 hard drive in the primary drive position,duel hard drives,a single Vertex 3 MAX IOPS in the primary drive position and duel SSDs.

The last picture is of 2 different MSI drive mounting options.There's the standard metal bracket that's attached to the primary drive when shipped from MSI,the hard rubber block that was in my box and the stepped hard rubber block that was included in a puchased metal bracket mounting kit from MSI.

 

I see that.

Bottom line. These top SATA III drives are faster in some areas while slower in others. Truth of the matter is, you will never see a difference in real world performance. Where you will see a difference is reliability and so far, every single review I've read seems to say that Samsung's SSD's are one of if not the most reliable.

This quote from Amandtech says it all:

"Samsung is a dangerous competitor in the SSD space. Not only does it make its own controller, DRAM and NAND, but it also has an incredible track record in terms of reliability. Samsung SSDs were among the first I reviewed and while they weren't anywhere near the fastest back then, every last one of those drives is still working without issue in my lab today. It's also worth pointing out that Samsung SSDs are also one of the two options Apple rebrands and delivers in its Mac lineup. To continue to hold on to Apple's business for this long is an impressive feat on Samsung's part."

 

Folks, is it possible for this thread to get back on topic, re-directing SSD discussion where more appropriate? A few SSD queries are understandable, but the thread has gotten off-topic for several pages now. Please consider continuing such discussion here:

Solid State Drives (SSDs) and Flash Storage

Thanks!

 

I own a Crucial M4 and I'm satisfied about it. The difference between SATA 3 brands is insignificant in a daily use. You will notice the difference in the testing softwares but in real life, hmm... not so much.
As for the Samsung, I think is too early to say that is one of the best on the market. It's too soon to say such thing. In 1 year yeah, we may say something relevant about it. In the meantime M4, 510 and V3 are on the market for a longer time and all owners may confirm that all of them are reliable and fast. It depends on your liking.
There are a lot of comments on Vertex 3 that is not reliable. First of all the reason for bad reliability is due to bad utilization. Another reason is the faulty firmware which was fixed long time ago.
Every product when is launched has a risk of bad/faulty hardware/firmware.
Nevertheless the most popular SSD throw the SSD enthusiasts are intel, ocz and crucial.

ps: some of you are concerned about upgrading the firmware... in this case my question is: do you intend to upgrade it every day? No, you will probably do it once or never if the product is for a while on the market.

 

is samsung using Sandforce or the parts intel and crucial is using

 

Again, Please take the SSD discussion here.......

Solid State Drives (SSDs) and Flash Storage

Thanks!

 

Okay so i was wondering in the gentechPC configurations.

16GB DDR3 1600/PC3 12800 Dual-Channel

May i know is this kingston hyperX or other brand ?

 

We currently using Crucial.

 

Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out with this.
I bought my 780R back in July, and now I'm having problems with charging.

The contact between the cable and the receptacle on the back of the laptop is being very finicky. I have to angle the plug just right and provide slight tension on the cable in order for the laptop to continue charging. This is a significant problem since I mostly use the laptop on my lap.

Has anyone had a problem like this? Am I having a problem with my cable or the receptacle? What can I do to fix it?

Thanks!

 

Hey guys I'm having trouble with the Realtek HD Audio Manager.

I'm using 5.1 headsets with a mic, and when I set the Realtek configuration to 5.1, it doesn't recognize my mic. When I set it to stereo, it does.

My headsets are built for 5.1. So I don't quite understand why its not working.

Any ideas? Is it the sound card or something?

 

It doesn't take much to break the soldered power connector on the motherboard.

Most of the time it's broken when someone trips on the power cord thusly the power cord jack plugged into the notebook goes sideways and brakes the soldered on motherboard connector.

Some other manufacturers have "L" shaped power cord jacks that may be less prone to this depending on the force placed on the jack.

If it's broken on the motherboard it's best to RMA the unit.

 

It would be much appreciated. I want to upgrade to a 6230 manually and any instructions on how to do so would be much appreciated!!

 

Also I have noticed that when typing, once every 6 sentences(best way to measure it) or so, an alphabet or two don't get registered when typing on the keyboard. The key works if I press it again but I don't like backtracking every now and again to fix errors.

My unit(GT783) is just 1 day old and to be honest, this is quite frustrating being a touch typist.This problem seems to be more software than hardware but MSI Australia say otherwise. Is anyone else experiencing this problem?

P.S:I've had to correct this post about 10 times already :/

 

Yeah,touch typists and speedsters will encounter problems on many laptop keyboards compared to desktop keyboards where you have 1000s of choices that you can attach.You can attach the desktop keyboard to a notebook but who wants to do that.
_____

Swapping out the stock Intel N-130 wireless card and replacing it with an Intel Advanced N 6230 wireless card is probably the easiest of all wireless card exchanges because both use the 2 existing antennas,both use the same driver,both fit the same mini pci-e slot and both are Bluetooth 3.0.

Newest WHQL Intel Wireless Driver v14.3.0.6
intel drivers pour chipsets Reseaux (Lan) & Wifi (Wireless)

****Remove the power cord and battery before working on the notebook!****

To access the wireless card the control bar that includes the power button and speaker covers needs to be lifted out of it's snapped in position.

Then the N-130 card will be exposed in the center of the notebook.

Remove the 2 antenna wires from the N-130 by grasping the connectors where they attach to the card and pull staight up.

Now remove the single screw that secures the N-130 into the mini pci-e slot and slide out the card.

Now attach the 2 antenna wires to the new 6230 wireless card.The primary antenna black wire goes on post #1 and the gray aux antenna wire on post #2.

Slide the 6230 into the mini pci-e slot and secure it with the screw.

Now before putting the control bar back make sure the white ribbon cable is securely attached to both the control bar and motherboard.It often comes off when removing the control bar.There's little black levers that secure the ribbon cable.If not secured the power button and control bar functions won't work.

OK,now snap the control bar back into the notebook.

Pix #1-Use a thin guitar pick or plastic knife to lift the end of control bar up on both ends.
Pix #2 6300 with 2 antennas attached,ribbon cable

 

Thank you very much for that! It looks simple enough. I was just not sure about the antennas. Never played around with those before :/.

As for the typing issue. Yeah, I type about 100 wpm. I GUESS I can get used to it. I'll just keep googling until someone else can tell what's wrong with it or if they have a quickfix or something. It doesn't seem like a normal issue though.

I have to fix every 2-3 sentences now. I'll have to get it serviced sooner or later anyways. Thanks for the input though.

 

Hi Ken. I just ordered a system from you. Can you let me know what the model number of the crucial RAM is? I have to find many ways to occupy myself while I wait for you to deliver my system...

 

As far as typing goes I'm more like slow poke Rodriguez than speedy Gonzalez so my keyboard is fine.

Solid contact needs to be made with each key on the Steelseries backlit keyboard.

As a keyboard in a gaming notebook it fits the billing.

My complaints are small ones.I'd like an "L" shaped power cord plug and an eject button on the DVD faceplate and maybe a better touchpad for the few times I do use it.

I'm 98% satisfied with my purchase.

BTW,in Q3 this year there will be new wireless products rolling out that are 802.11ac

The TrendNet TEW-811D wireless router with gigabyte wireless speed was announced at CES.

They'll be backward compatible on 5ghz only.The 802.11ac standard will only use the 5ghz band so no 2.4ghz band that the GT78x series stock Intel N 130 wireless card uses.

http://www.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/Shop/ShopDetail.asp?ProductID=13019
http://www.netgear.com/landing/80211ac/
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2481...ter_prototype_your_router_cowers_in_fear.html
http://www.engadget.com/2012/01/10/d-link-802.11ac/

 

I think it's the receptacle and it's soldered on the mainboard. I suggest you contact MSI to have them replace the mainboard for you.

Sure I'll let you know tomorrow. Also if you want to know the status of your order you can PM me your order number.

 

I may be about to own an MSi GT 783-625us and I'm worried about a few things (as I've never owned a laptop before) :

1. Is the keyboard problem that bad? Does it affect the new 783/783R's? I've been reading around and as someone who will mostly use the laptop for gaming but can reach upwards of 90 WPM, I'm kinda worried about feeling incoherent when typing.
2. How's the feel of the keyboard? I've read anywhere from solid without give when pressing to solid around the WASD keys but slight give under the num pad, to slight give all around. Clarification, owners?
3. How is the general reliability? Does the build feel cheap? Plastic? I may be traveling across the world soon (US to Singapore) and would be very appreciative if someone can volunteer their experience.

Thanks for any input! I didn't know if I should post in this thread or start my own..

 

I just wanted to personally thank Ken from Gentech for going above and beyond what he needed to do for the past week while my system was being built. He spent over a hour total on the phone with me talking about different things and telling me which upgrades were worth it and which ones weren't. I also felt it very refreshing to talk with someone who seemed honest and didn't try selling me on things I didn't need. He told me what was reliable and what wasn't. For the past two days, Ken was personally going over my system with a fine toothed comb. He made sure every key registered on the Steel Series Keyboard and also ran Furmark to see if all temps remained within normal limits. He told me that my 570m was topping out at 73 celcius and never went past. Is 73 celcius on Furmark normal for you guys or what?

Anyway, I can't wait to get this beast on Friday. In two years when its time to upgrade, I will be going back to Gentech and giving Ken a call.

Thank you Ken.

 

Hey Ken,

How about a recommendation to MSI that they use the right-angle plug. I know they used it for the GT735 and it was great. The new cord is quite thick, as is the plug itself. They both stick so far out the back that they provide a lot of leverage force. As such, any little pressure on them could be very damaging. A right-angle plug would solve this.

This would be especially useful to me in particular. As I work at many different stations per week, it's nothing for me to plug & unplug my computer 30-40 times a week. That amount of use compounds the problem in my opinion. I'd pay to have a right-angle power brick just to save myself the headache in the long run.

 

Just noticed that some sites sell the GT780 and 1761 with a 180 watt power adapter and others sell them with a 150 watt adapter. Is it possible that that 150 would be insufficient for the power draw under full load?

 

Depends on the GPU......

150W = GTX-560M

180W = GTX-570M & GTX-580M

 

That's what concerns me. Been looking at a 1761 barebone with a 570m on XoticPC, but it looks like all their MSI models have the 150 watt adapter, even those with a 580m.

 

I think it depends on the supplier, especially if it's 180W adapter there aren't many to choose from.

 

Not sure about the barebones units, but that does not sound right. I would check with folks in the barebones threads, and double-check with the reseller. Like the GT780/GT783, seems the barebones units would be the same...... maybe that particular reseller needs to edit their barebones listings.

150W = GTX-560M

180W = GTX-570M & GTX-580M

 

I emailed them and they quoted me the specs sheet here and still said 150 watt: FORCE 1761 / MSI 1761

Unless of course it's an error on the specs page . . .

 

It is probably just a mistake on their website...all of the current MS 1761 barebones (like our PowerPro R 12:17) come with 180W AC Adapter.