--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

hi do you guys think i shouuld update my nvidia firmware from 265.80 to latest

 

There's a performance increase in the latest driver from Nvidia, but I've noticed little bigs here and there, like the forward and back buttons in the Windows Picture Viewer disappearing on me last night until I moused over them and they came back. Didn't notice that kind of behavior on the old drivers. But that's hardly a reason to not upgrade.

 

thank you ! thank you! thank you!

 

Hi All

After I shrunk volume c, I can't increase volume d (extend choice is disable) , Also when I try to make a new volume I get this massage :
"The operation you selected will convert the selected basic disk(s) to dynamic disk(s). if you convert the disk(s) to dynamic, you will not be able to start installed operating systems from any volume on the disk(s) (except the current boot volume). Are you sure you want to continue?"

What should I do ?
Thanks all

 

That's what i thought it would happen, but it didn't. I unpluged the toslink cable and the red light still coming out of the plug. It's weird cause the same problem happened with a friend with his M18x.
I've looked everywhere in the realtek icon, but i just can't find the option to turn it off. Could you please send a print screen of where this option is located ?

Thanks !

 

What about unlocked bios for the 783? Also, I can't find the procedure to replace the RAM under the keyboard and I know it was just posted. Apologies .

Last, I just upgraded my brand new GT783 screen to the GENTECH 90% glossy and I a can say is WOW. This is NOT a small improvement. Night and day difference. While smaller, it is on PAR with my 27" Apple Thundbolt Display. Easy to do yourself and not that expensive. I added the 3rd antena behind the screen while I had it apart. I would also add the Ken was amazing to deal with the took time to answer ALL my questions even though his being honest resulted in me spending less money. This IMO, is rare in todays market and I very much appericated it.

Thanks in advance... Joe

 

This has been common with Macbook Pro's, including my MBP. The solution that worked for me is to plug-and-pull a 3.5mm jack into the hole for many, many times (like 100 times). I even used a thin Philips screw driver. Some suggested toothpick.

 

I can't tell ya about unlocked bios;I have no need to use them.

As for the 2 memory module slots under the keyboard see this post.There's no HD video of the procedure,only humble words and photos.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-613.html#post8306476

The problem I had with adding the 3rd antenna for a Bigfoot 1103 was finding a place to put it that didn't interfere with the lcd panel fitting into the lid properly.I settled to the spot on the right side about 50%+ down from the top.Then snaked the antenna wire through the right side hinge and then onto connector #3 on the card.

The middle picture has the Bigfoot 1103 while the 3rd photo has the Intel 6300.

To the left of the wireless card is the lcd panel connection to the motherboard.

 

So, anyone know why this thread is not searchable?

Or am I just DERP?

 

refer here http://forum.notebookreview.com/site-suggestions-help-announcements/645028-why-cant-i-search.html

 

^^
Use Google to search and you will find what you are looking for come up, probably right here in this thread.

 

just curious, are they working on it?

 

Thanks for the info.

 

No, they figure Google does a much better job when it comes to searching.

 

There wasn't any customization w/mine. I generally suffer from the curse of the necessity of instant gratification. However, in this case I really did have a need for "something good now", at that time. The only physical location wherein I could acquire a high-end notebook was from Fry's. They only have the one model (gt783r):
0) 1.5TB (2x 750GB Scorpio Black, Raid 0)
1) anti-glare screen
2) 12GB RAM
3) Intel N-130 wireless card.

I recently, last night in fact, updated the RAM to 32GB. These seem to work well. I will install 2 Kingston HyperX 120GB SSDs (RAID 0) tomorrow/over the weekend.

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the reply I had already done that, however, unless I'mm doing something wrong there is a metal plate under the keyboard. This is a GT783 if that makes a difference. I hope replacing the RAM modules under the ketbord doesn't require spliting the top and bottomcase sections.

As for the 3rd antenna wie I did similar. BTW, does is matter what wire plugs into what spot on the bigfoot? I see in the picture you have one marked.

Thanks again.. Joe

This is a pretty complete video I found FWIW: MSI Notebook GT780 --- Disassembling - YouTube

Joe

 

Antenna wires:
Black = primary antenna to connection #1 on wireless card
Gray = aux antenna to connection #2 on wireless card
White = added in 3rd antenna to connection #3 on wireless card.
____
Memory Under Keyboard:
After the Touch Control Bar has been taken out of the shell remove the 5 exposed screws across the top of the keyboard.

Now slide the keyboard about 1/4" toward the screen so the 6 appendages on the bottom of the keyboard clear the shiny U shaped plastic that surrounds the keyboard on 3 sides.

Under the keyboard are 2 ribbon cables.A small one under the left CTRL key and a large one in the center.

Tilt the top of the keyboard up so the keyboard is perpendicular to the notebook to reveal 2 shiny pieces of black plastic film.

Under the black film are the 2 memory banks.

Also see Ken's post.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-227.html#post7851396

 

Most excellent sir! Thanks. If I'm only using two DIMMS instead of four, which one on each side will allow me to maintain my dual channel DDR status?

Thanks again for all the help.. Joe

 

hi i need help

May i know how do you know whether your ram is running 1333MHz or 1600MHz?

I bought 1600MHz but i dont want to dismantle everything just to see the ram spec

 

You can run Memtest86 or CPU-Z (Google for them and download) and they will tell you.

 

Open CPU-Z and click on the memory tab. Whatever it says next to "DRAM Frequency", double it. That's your memory speed.

Attached is an example. The memory in my computer is currently clocked at 1068MHz, so it shows up as 534MHz - which is normal. So in your case if it says 667MHz, it's running at 1333MHz. If it says 800MHz, it's running at 1600MHz.

 

what does everyone use as their laptop cooler? would a 220mm fan be better or dual 80/100s? noise isn't an issue for me

 

whoa !! Thank you Whatsthepoint!

 

If you have only 2 same size so-dimms now,put them both under the keyboard.They will run in duel channel mode in memory banks 2 and 4.

This will make a future upgrade easier when you add memory to the other slots accessed through the bottom of the unit into banks 1 and 3.

My Unit shipped from MSI with 4GB x 2 of Nanya DDR3-1333 under the keyboard.

My dealer's free upgrade to 16Gb put 4GB x 2 of Samsung in the bottom banks(slots).

 

ok, how do we use it?

 

Hope this helps you.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/8295289-post6014.html

 

thanks it works !

 

I guess Intels specs aren't always telling the whole story as this processor should only run RAM up to 1333Mhz



Daz

 

Finally determined the problem. It was the printer driver for a networked Brother 2170W printer. Fixed by deleting the printer and manually installing the driver which I downloaded from the Brother site. Initially, Windows 7 detected the printer and automatically installed the driver.

Determined this to be the problem by noticing a "normal" message in System event viewer that the printer driver was preventing something to do with power. Don't recall the message and I've cleared the event logs.

 

Welcome to the forum Dazouri

Yes, this has been discussed many, many times. The Intel specs were originally published showing only support for DDR3/1333 and they refuse to republish updated specs.

Dazouri, please resize your pictures to fit the page. It makes it awkward for everyone when you include a picture that requires horizontal scrolling. Notice that the veterans always use thumbnails or links to pictures, or have their pictures sized to fit the page.

 

My GT783 has Nanya Technology Memory? PC3-10700 (667MHz)?

That sound right?

 

Hi All

After I shrunk volume c, I can't increase volume d (extend choice is disable) , Also when I try to make a new volume I get this massage :
"The operation you selected will convert the selected basic disk(s) to dynamic disk(s). if you convert the disk(s) to dynamic, you will not be able to start installed operating systems from any volume on the disk(s) (except the current boot volume). Are you sure you want to continue?"

What should I do ?
Thanks all

 

I know this really doesn't have much to do with any topics at hand...but if anyone needs a quick laugh..check out this listing on Ebay...please tell me the price is a mistake LOL!! MSI GT780DX-406US Gaming Notebook 9S7-176112-406 CUSTOM + 16GB 1333MHZ LAPTOP !! (816909090239) | eBay

 

LOL! Good O'l BtoTech..... why am I not surprized?

 

Hello everyone,

i am dealing with a problem here....Sometimes when i play games, the sound will starts producing crackling sounds and the game would immediatelly drop to 5 FPS. This lasts like 10 seconds and then it returns to normal.

I was wondering what could cause such crackling noise in the speakers and was wondering whats wrong...Sound settings ? Maybe ? Or the game might not support high quality sound ?

I tried reinstalling the Relatec drivers twice and it didnt help...


By the way i am using 5.1 settings in Realtec drivers, but i unchecked the Center and Rear Pair which in my opinion makes it pretty much 2.1 - I did this because i havent found 2.1 maybe i should use Stereo. All i want to know is if that can cause the problem. If yes i switch back to Stereo.

Thanks for any advice and sorry if it was answered already.

 

Hi folks, been a long time since I last visited NBR.

Got some thoughts and a couple of questions (that have probably been answered, but the 'how to google this forum' thing just dumps me at the last post in this thread, no idea why...) before purchasing this laptop.

I'm eying up a GT780DX (need to turn into a road-warrior for a few months, but don't want to lose the ability to game!) and the few concerns I have focused on the keyboard and a couple of other issues - people reporting dodgy keyboards concerns me as I'm really demanding about keyboards. However, that worry has been lessened somewhat by WhatsThePoint mentioning (somewhere dozens of pages ago in this busy thread) that he spoke to MSI and the DX (which seems to be a sort of 'version 1.5' of the GT780) has an improved attachment system so is less likely to suffer from being 'loose'.

The version I'm eying up (GT780DX-609UK) apparently has the fancy backlit keyboard - which may explain why 'hitting right on the edge' of the key fails to register a keystroke... laptop keys traditionally have had extremely short travel distance; this is a space saving measure, but also means that typing on a laptop keyboard is nothing like typing on a good-quality desktop keyboard. This is especially true if you're used to mechanical keyboards which can have large amounts of travel and can require a certain amount of force to get them to even move, let alone register.

Basically, I'm left with the impression that as long as the keyboard doesn't ship disconnected/broken, I'll be fine with it, because while I'm not a heavy typist and do type at a moderately fast pace it should cope. I always hate a keyboard for the first couple of days use anyway, until I've become familiar with key 'feel', spacing, travel etc. Small carriage return (Enter) key might cause me the most issues. I'm used to UK keyboards.

Time will tell; I'll have seven days from it arriving to test thoroughly and if not happy, it'll be going back and the etailer will be annoyed. I wish I could see one in real life, but in the era of dying-brick-and-mortar-stores, it's really hard to get hands-on experience of most technical equipment.

Next concern was lack of a physical eject button on the optical drive. It still has the emergency-eject-via-paperclip hole if the videos and photos I've seen of the laptop are accurate, so I'll have to learn to live with the software-eject-button, no matter how bitter a pill it is for me to swallow.

The requirement of software for various essential hardware functions of the system to work is likewise... particularly since it leaves stuff sitting on the desktop. Which brings me to this post;

I read a few pages after this, but didn't see any indication that anyone had tried it out - have they?

Seems the perfect fix for me (barring MSI deciding to support hardware calls in hardware which is unlikely) as it would remove the 'overlay' (star) the OSD popups (words have yet to be invented to describe my distaste for OSD popups) but keep the buttons working. And on an SSD (even if it is a lower-end one in stock form) on a quad-core CPU and with 16GB of RAM... even I can't get too grumpy about overhead... so long as it's minimal and the S-Bar software doesn't go eating half a gig of RAM.

Huh... just read that, and realised that it's mostly thoughts with one question. So lets continue...

I can't find much information about the SSD in the 609UK model - like what manufacturer/model it is. MSI's website likes saying Intel SSDs, but they're all 120GB models, not the 128GB listed. Can anyone help with that one? If it's an OK model (ie: supports TRIM/garbage collection) then I'll probably just leave it in there for the time being and go with a bigger, better drive when I start to feel cramped on it.

From reviews I've read the laptop seems to run cool... I'm not too bothered about fan noise, as fans move air, usually through heatsinks which restrict airflow... and that means turbulence, which means noise. Fact of life. As long as it doesn't sound like a leaf-vac on steroids or whiny mosquito, I'm not too fussed.

...

I think that's it for now, really. Any insight users can throw up on those issues would be grand. Hopefully I'll be as pleased with the system as I want to be, because I've been bitten by laptops appearing great on paper and then being terrible in-the-flesh before; although with a different manufacturer who shall remain nameless.

Cheers all, apologies for the long post.

 

You're doing this on logical drives, and Windows has been installed on C:, right?

I believe it'll be best if you do a clean/perfect resizing before installing an OS, for any OS. So shrinking/expanding logical volumes should be avoided as much as possible, IMO.

Anyway, try using Partition Magic, or GParted.

 

HI I'm new and just bought a newish gt780dxr446us off of a certain website it did not come with the cds that are originally there to restore the oem software I was wondering if anyone could possibly post an ISO of the cds or point me in a good direction I don't want to have to call the manufacturer for them but I will if I have to. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

@Paradigm Shifter - The keyboard issue was resolved last year. For the dvd drive just open windows explorer and click on the drive and in opens. Nothing else is needed. I do not use the s-bar software as it is not needed for anything important. The 16gb's of ram is ridiculous, you will never need more than a few gb's, no matter how much crap is running.

@PhiberMatrix - They are on your hard drive. You have a MSI software backup program preinstalled on your notebook that will allow you to create an image of the factory install than you can save as ISO's or burn to dvd's.

 

I need help this is emergency , I left my computer on and come back , I turn it on and it turns black screen and says reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media

 

Go into the bios and check that your primary boot drive is listed and set as the 1st boot device or second when the DVD/BD is first.

If it's there but you still can't boot to it,it could be a corrupt Master Boot Record and Windows will need to be reinstalled or restored from a backup partion or disk.

 

The problem is I cannot even go to bios

 

Try taking the secondary drive out of the notebook and then booting up.

Do you have the Raid bios 1761_30x or the none Raid Bios 1761_10x ?

 

No when I bought it I select. No raid

 

I need to take all the screws out in order to take out the shell ?

I took out the second drive still the same

 

Is it just me or does it seem like RAID does more harm than good?

 

Hi shifter,

i have the GT780DXR and if you're looking for a better keyboard ithink the DXR with backlit Steelseries will do just fine.

i haven't had problems with ghosting or loosing key presses in game. i think its really a superior keyboard.

As for the eject button on cd, you can eject in bios if you're not booted yet, you can eject in windows but not while its loading. idk why it doesn't work while booting windows but it works in the bios.

As for the model with the SSD i can't comment but i'd like to know the drive model and specs myself.

i put my own SSD in there, Crucial M4 and wow that thing boots to the desktop in 9 seconds flat.

i'm sure you'll be happy with your purchase, i am, just the fans well they are loud for my ears, maybe you're not as sensitive to airflow as i am.

 

There's 7 screws that need to come out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmUOPBAt1PI

 

How are you attempting to go into the BIOS?

When it starts up you should hit the Del button as soon as you see the MSI logo.

 

hi, that 1st problem you mention about increasing D is a windows problem, did you try another partition program like MiniTool Partition Wizard Home Edition 7.1

you'll get much better partition control using something like that than windows disc management, it is very very basic.

If you shrink your C 1st with Partition wizard it won't stop just at the 1st bit of file at the end of your disc like windows does, it will move it so you can use all the free space.

then you can increase your D much more.


As for the error message i think its because your system might be in RAID ? not sure, lets see what others think of it.