--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

Please help on #6394

Thank you

 

i just got 14.3k in 3dmark06..that seems a bit low. what's everyone averaging on that? I ran everything default minus the resolution. 1920x1080

i have the msi gt780dx model. everything standard, 12gb, 750gb hd

 

LOL! To see how gorgeous the notebook really is, you'll have to remove all that shipping protective film.

Honestly, I am not seeing a problem there, and the protective film is distracting. Do you really have a problem with the control bar there? Or is it more, that it doesn't sit as flush or 'perfect' as you would like?

(geez, I hope this is not another case of customer OCD)

 

I can be as fussy as the next guy..I will admit that! But in this case I say customer OCD for sure! LOL...

 

Just ran 3DMark 06 and got the following score:

Version: 1.2.0
SystemInfo Version: 4.0
2/24/12 7:37:11 PM
Id: 16491303
Score:
18656 3DMarks

This is on stock, so I feel pretty good about it. I actually think it was a little better than my 560TI AMP Zotac Desktop card from a few months ago. Very pleased by the results.

Yep, just checked my 560TI:


Latest results

3DMark062/24/12 7:37:11 PM
18656 Intel Core i7-2670QM Processor
Details

Delete
Generic VGA
Add to compare
3DMark Vantage11/25/11 4:20:38 PM
P18003 AMD Processor Model Unknown
Details

Delete
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti
Add to compare


Not sure why 3DMark06 isn't picking up my 580M and the drivers... but overall, a pretty decent jump from a desktop card to my notebook card. Pleased.

 

I wish all of you the best of luck and thanks for the assistance. I bought a 780dx-406us a month ago and returned it because it was crashing and failed a memtest86+ with over 300k errors. I got the replacement unit which worked for a week without issues, and passed the memtest86+ on day 1. After a week it started crashing with BSOD. I reran memtest86+ and it also had immediate errors. I am assuming that the RAM overheated and got damaged somehow. I ended up returning it and buying an Asus G74sx. This is a shame since on paper, the MSI has better specs.

Good luck to all.

 

Good luck with that. that is really rare to get to notebooks with the same problem, almost impossible. But just keep in mind that if this problem occurred with an Asus notebook, you would still be waiting for the first one to come back, with the same problem, unfixed or worse. I speak from experience.


@He1p - you cannot see anything with the plastic there, remove the plastic film and retake your pictures.

 

Not sure how these scores work out, but just did 3dmark and got 19194. This seem about right for a 580M?

 

Seems about right to me. A little higher than what I got. I'm actually tweaking and going to rerun again shortly.

Edit: Are you 3DMark06 or Vantage?

 

hey guys i'm trying to update my MSIGT780DXR-446us to windows 7 ultimate 64 only problem is I've never worked with raid befor and don't really want to go screwing up so badly I mess it up for good any good advice btw I'm doing fresh install no updating so if anyone can send me an ISO of the Drivers cd since my laptop was not shipped with one that would be amazing. Thanks for any help!

 

I buy from amazon only, the replacement is on its way before I even send back the first one.

 

running 3dmark06

 

Your 560ti is way morepowerful than Your 580m stock, 3DMark06 is very cpu dependent.
Check vantage and 3dmark11 instead

 

That's very odd. I don't think I've seen anyone with the memory issues you had. Do you remember what re-seller you purchased it from. Also, do you remember what RAM was installed? Although, whether or not I wanted to try another GT780 or not, I probably still would have gone with something that had a little more oomph than the 560m. Prior to my current set up, I had a Asus G51 for 2 years and I loved it. In fact, I sold it to a co-worker and its still running strong. The only thing that kept me from buying another one was the fact they don't offer the 570m/580m and they solder the GPU's onto the motherboard. I like having the option to upgrade my GPU in a year which I will be upgrading to the 680m.

 

do i really have to remove the protective films ?

Do you guys wipe or clean the surface ?

if yes , using which kind of cloth

 

You don't "have" to do anything. Just odd seeing all of it still on there. It looks a lot better with it off. I did however leave the plastic between the keys on the keyboard intact, don't want dirt and debri in there... lol. So I kind of see why you're doing it.

 

My prior laptop (which still works but runs very hot in games 100+c) is a Asus G51vx. The MSI 780dx-406us was from Amazon. The reason I went with the Asus G74sx was because Amazon has such a great returns policy and overall customer service. Amazon just did not have anything with a better video card. I am finding that so far (12 hours or so) the Asus is working well, and runs a whole lot cooler than the MSI. CPU temps max out at 67c with Prime95. GPU temps max out at 71c with Furmark. It is also incredibly quiet at 100% load. Even during the stress tests, the fan was barely audible.

 

If your unit has Windows 7 x64 Home Premium preinstalled then you can use the Microsoft Anytime Update to change to Ultimate x64 using your serial key.

The driver CD that ships with notebooks is outdated as are most of the drivers on the MSI download sites.

If you deside you really want to do a complete clean raid0 Windows 7 x64 Ultimate installation then I suggest you switch to AHCI in the bios>save and exit.

Then using the Windows installation disk format and delete all partitions on both drive using the built in disk utilities.

After both drives are clean change back to raid in the bios>save>reboot.

While rebooting press CTRL + I to enter Raid setup.

Setup your array and reboot pressing the f11key and select to boot from the Windows 7 x64 Ultimate Installation Disk(USB or DVD).

Then you can follow these installation instructions.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

****Some people say it's OK to just delete the raid array and then create a new one and wiping the drives is unnecessary.Deleting the array only removes the directory and not the files.I believe starting with clean disks helps to get the best installation and problem free operation.

IMO,a single SATA III 240GB~256GB SSD as the primary boot drive is way better than a raid0 array using mechanical hard drives.

 

My G51 (Best Buy Model) would max out in the high 80's. I did do a cooling mod on it by drilling holes all throughout the fake sub woofer on the bottom plate. I don't think I ever saw it get close to 100. My MSI with a 570m which is overclocked gets between 66-69 Celsius when playing Battlefield maxed out at 1080 and maxes out at 73 Celsius after running Furmark for a while. I'm sure the IC Diamond thermal paste has something to do with it as well. I think I've seen most people in here max out in the high 70's when using the stock paste. Every once in a while, I'll see someone report their maxing out in the 80's but very rarely. MSI actually uses some of the best, if not the best heat sink/fans. The temps on the MSI's with the 570's/580's are pretty damn good considering all of the power it is drawing. From what I've seen, the Sager's seem to run much hotter. If your MSI's were running much hotter than what I just reported, I would say you definitely got a bad batch. Do you remember what the re-sellers name was who was selling it through Amazon?

 

2 bad decisions:

First-you didn't buy from resellers that know their products inside and out and customize the units for their customers.They are listed on the 1st page of this thread.

Second-Why did Asus deside not to put GTX570M or GTX580M in their G74?
Their so called quiet cooling wouldn't be quiet since those GPUs would need better fans and heatsinks.

Your bad luck caused you to make IMO bad decisions that started originally by choosing Amazon for a gaming notebook that should have been a customized unit put together and tested by the hands of experts.You got pot luck units that turned out to be bad either by the factory or the pilot.

 

Very good point if I may add. I completely forgot to tell him if he had purchased his MSI from a reputable re-seller, it would have been gone over with a fine tooth comb to make sure everything was within working order. If his MSI was running that much hotter than what he's reporting with his Asus, I am pretty damn sure the thermal paste on those units was not applied correctly.

 

The sticker is on the bottom of the fan.

There's only 1 screw holding it in when the backplate screws are removed.

The fan can be taken out without removing the power connection.



****News for Sandforce SSD owners.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...pacity-sandforce-driven-ssds.html#post8337577

 

Anyone know how to make the steelseries keys to a programmable macro ?

Like press alt gr opens firefox and 8 different website in tabs

 

Is that going to mess up the heatsink's thermal paste ?

 

Going back to this quote, is this still the case? I'm getting ready to grab some to replace the Nanya memory... didn't know if I should go back w/ the current 16GB or if it would only work w/ the 12GB of 1866 still?

 

hi

I used to get stable 40++ FPS in BF3 until the new patch for BF3 came out ruined my FPS

It always happens with a fps spike , how do i get back my stable fps

 

He1p brother, you've had more problems in the early going than anyone I've ever seen, ha. I would uninstall the new driver if it's been happening since then, and download the older driver that you were using prior if it seemed to be running smoothly.

Back on the topic of 1866MHz memory... I just purchased 4 4GB Sticks of HyperX PnP 1866Mhz Memory (Gray heatsink/spreader). Once it gets here, should I just install the 12GB, or have those issues limiting usage to 12GB been resolved?

 

Sorry for the delay. Removed them, tried those things you mentioned - I guess I will see what happens. What do you think the next step could be for me? Sending this to MSI and getting destroyed with a repair cost? Shame I got this on Christmas and I feel like it's already ruined. I wish Newegg was selling these with SSDs at the time.

I also often get "AVG UNSPECIFIED ERROR" randomly when the laptop is on.

Any other thoughts would be awesome.

 

the film is meant to guarantee that you get a clean machine from the factory, not to be there forever. It is up to you, but there is no valid reason to leave it. I have cleaned the surface of my notebook with water, ammonia based cleaners and non-ammonia glass cleaner using everything from soft lint free clothes to rough as hell paper without issue. The materials used these days are a lot tougher than you would think.

 

what repair cost? its still under warranty.

for avg: uninstall - reboot - reinstall

 

More is better than faster.

Sandy Bridge memory controller still will BSOD with more than 12GB of DDR3-1866 HyperX PnP so-dimms.

The Ivy Bridge memory controller will probably have much better DDR-1600 support so possibly better DDR3-1866 also.

You could put in 16GB,4GB x 4,of HyperX PnP(gray heatink)DDR3-1600 and will be better off than with 12GB of DDR3-1866.

 

I broke the sticker on the underside to install the SSD. I'm removing AVG now, rebooting, then re-installing.

Will I be able to contact MSI, send this back, have them repair - eventhough I have installed the SSD?

 

I just removed AVG, re-installed, and there was an instant "WINDOWS EXPLORER HAS STOPPED WORKING" message. Man, since the first SAMSUNG 830 SSD, to this CRUCIAL M4 - I must have reinstalled Windows 6 times. What is the deal here! Been modifying and building machines since 2001 and I have NEVER had problems like these.

 

Did you take out any other drive first?It's best to have only the drive that will receive the OS physically in the notebook during the installation with the bios set to AHCI.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

No,it's only a plastic fan.The thrermal compound is on the chips and heatsinks.The fan cools the heatpipes(copper tubes) that conduct the heat from the heatsinks(aluminum) to the fan.

 

Well that stinks. But then again, since a normal user won't go anywhere near 16GB unless some extreme multitasking, I'm assuming that the quicker memory will be beneficial, right?

Say I'm just running Skyrim or Batman: AA, is there any reason to go over 12GB?

I may just hold onto the 1866 until I eventually upgrade my processor... but if the reviews on Ivy Bridge aren't stellar, may just sell them and go w/ a 1600MHz HyperX setup.

 

I would go ahead and format your OS drive. Then when you re-install Windows, make sure you remove the HDD your using for data. After you install Windows, then put your secondary HDD back in.

I am using a Samsung 830 in conjunction with the stock 750gb HDD and everything has been running smoothly. I haven't had any errors or BSOD's.

 

hi there is something wrong with my TDE P1 button

IT turned on and turn off by itself

Recently i installed back my old driver


FIXED <---- By restart

 

For those uses there is no reason to go over 8GB DDR3/1333.

 

Money > Knowledge.

 

I dont think any games go over 4GB other than MMORPGs

 

sure, the way i understand it is the warranty will still be valid if you don't play with the motherboard/cpu/gpu including the fan(s). But hdd/wifi and ram is fine.

There may be something wrong with avg itself, i stopped using it years ago, i'd suggest avast or nod32. Maybe it doesn't like win7 or getting uninstalled.

 

its probly just avg getting its hooks out of explorer, does this happen again after your reboot?

did you remove all hdd before installing windows on the ssd with your recovery dvd not the F3 procedure?

that's how i did it and my M4 works fine. you can plug the other hdd back in after installing windows.

again, make sure your bios is set to ahci and for this one time use your dvds.

 

You guys are talking about AVG

What happened ?

 

Which Ssd should i get ?
Is this one gonna work on my laptop ? GT780DXR

Amazon.com: Samsung 830 - Series MZ-7PC128D/AM 128 GB 2.5 Inch SATA III MLC Internal SSD Desktop Kit with Norton Ghost 15: Computers & Accessories

 

Works on mine great. From what I've read online from numerous websites is that Samsung and Intel currently make the most reliable SSD's bar none. Most all SATAIII SSD's are going to be around the same speed. Some will be faster in some areas while others are quicker in others. I purchased my Samsung 830 series based on Samsung's SSD track record, their good Magician Software that optimizes Windows for it and the ease of firmware updates. Some SSD's don't allow you to update the firmware while in Windows which just makes another added step I don't feel like taking. I just like clicking "Update."

 

Intel 520 Ssd

 

I've been running a 120GB OCZ Vertex3 and 500GB WD Scorpio Black for about 5 or so months now. Not one problem with either drive I will add.
I got what I think was a good deal on a Samsung 830 512gb and it should be in hand soon.

I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to configure the system. Just the one 830 drive or replace the WD Scorpio with the 830 and leave the OCZ primary? Or perhaps something else?

Thanks!

 

FredS asked,
"I've been running a 120GB OCZ Vertex3 and 500GB WD Scorpio Black for about 5 or so months now. Not one problem with either drive I will add.
I got what I think was a good deal on a Samsung 830 512gb and it should be in hand soon.

I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to configure the system. Just the one 830 drive or replace the WD Scorpio with the 830 and leave the OCZ primary? Or perhaps something else?"

You could put the 512GB SSD in the primary boot drive position.

The 120GB SSD in the secondary position and maybe use it strictly for gaming.

Put the WD Scorpio Black into a caddy in the optical drive bay.

Move the optical drive to an external box for the times when you may need it.

 

There'a alot of very good SATA III SSDs available with a few different controllers.

With the SandForce 2281 controller I like the drives with the Toshiba toggle 32nm premium grade memory like the Patriot Wildfire,Corsair Force GT,OCZ Vertex 3 MAX IOPS and OWC Mercury Extreme Pro.

The new Intel 520 SSD,Kingston HyperX and SanDisk Extreme with 25nm toggle memory also deserve a good look.

Non SandForce drives are few in number.The Samsung 830 with Samsungs own controller and Corsair Performance Pro with the newest Marvel controller are the newest drives and the Crucial M4 with an older Marvel controller gets honorable mention.

The SSDs with 240GB~256GB unformated capacity are considered the sweet spot.

The Intel 520 SSDs and the OWC Mercury Extreme have a 5 year warranty

For security on my GT780DX I use MSE 4,Emsisoft free antimalware and Sandboxie.

While surfing the net I'm always sandboxed with Sandboxie

MSE 4 Beta:
http://www.nawzil.com/files/MSE/mseinstall-amd64fre-en-us.exe

Emsisoft Antimalware Free Edition:
http://majorgeeks.com/Emsisoft_Anti-Malware_Free_edition_d4281.html

Sandboxie:
http://www.sandboxie.com/index.php?DownloadSandboxie

 

I had a Patriot Wildfire 120GB SSD as my Primary...and was very satisfied...but wanted something larger...so I just recently swapped it out with a Samsung 830 256GB.....both drives are MORE than fast enough...I really haven't had the Samsung long enough to compare the two in real world speed...but so far..it seems it MAY lag just a tiny tad behind the Wildfire...but honestly I'm not sure..and if it does...it is negligible thus far. Also, the reliability of Samsung is supposed to be spectacular..I was going to actually get an Intel 520 instead..but I just can't warrant the enormous price premium of the Intel drives...the Samsung's reliability track record is just as good...the speeds are comparable and the price was WAY more attractive...so much so that I have a second one in hand waiting to replace my 750 mechanical drive...which I'll put in an external enclosure...so I would say:
Samsung 830 or Intel 520 or Patriot Wildfire or Crucial M4.....those are my pics....good luck!