--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

@StagFury

Consider 1761 with 120gb SSD and just 570m, overclock IF necessary... Which you might not need to depending on your game of choice. I got a respectable p12000+ vantage score on stock 570m (w/PPU disabled) on my first try.

Adding the 120gb SSD, Steelseries keyboard and OS Gentech has a 1761 for $1368.00. Free mouse, free BF3.

 

I always wonder, how does the warranty work for the barebones O_O?
and the build in your signature is basically what I'm trying to build, maybe minus the blu ray and bigfoot 1103 (kinda want the bigfoot actually) :/ how did you get $1368

 

i'd listen to antiquegamer and those other guys my friend, it is worth buying it from gentech and other vendors listed in 1st post.

i'm sure you read how Antiquegamer had to return his laptop 3 times on amazon. that's probably not a common thing but i would'nt know since i didn't buy mine there.

i know, amazon looks great, but the boutique selling on there isn't so hot apparently.

now if Ken from gentech would sell his laptops on amazon that would really benefit him too. Just sayin'.

His reputation precedes him in this thread as you can see.

i'd have gone with that myself if i'd known of this thread and the fine ppl on it, before buying.

 

The warranty is through the reseller.All warranty repairs will be done by the reseller not MSI.

The build in his signature is nice but you really don't need the 1866 ram.More memory is much better than faster memory.The unit will support 32GBs(winders 7 Pro or Ultimate) of DDR3-1333,16GB of DDR3-1600 and 12GB of DDR3-1866

If you don't opt for a GTX580M because money is an issue with the $399 price upgrade then try for a 240~256GB SSD as the primary boot drive.This size is the sweet spot for SSD performance.

I love my Killer 1103 wireless as shown in my signature.

New on the SSD scene is the SanDisk Extreme.It's using the newest Toshiba 24nm Toggle NAND memory.Toshiba and SanDisk are 51/49 partners in the NAND memory venture.

The 32nm Toshiba Toggle NAND is used in the OCZ Vertex 3 MAX IOPS,Patriot Wildfire and OWC Extreme.

 

Basically I'm just looking for 2670qm, 570m. 12 or maybe 8gb ram, 120gbssd and 720gb 7200rpm hdd, change it to 72%gamut glossy display, steelseries keyboard ,not really sure if I need the 1103 , if I want ir later is it easy to switch it myself?
Also, what's exactly the difference between the barebones and branded version, aside from warranty?
I heard the chassis is different?

 

The stock wireless card,Intel N 130,can be good if you're close to the router and not going through walls and floors.It's single 2.4ghz band 150Mbps.

The 2 antenna Killer 1102 is a very good wireless card that doesn't require opening the LCD frame to install a 3rd antenna.

It should be coupled with a good 300Mbps simultaneous duel-band router.

I put the Killer 1103 with 3rd antenna into a GT780DX.It's not hard at all.A while back I posted pictures and instructions.

Get the unit you desire the most.

Use the stock hard drive until you can get a 240~256GB SSD.

I have a few smaller sized ones I regretted buying after I got a 240GB Vertex 3 MAX IOPS.

As for memory,16GB of DDR3-1333 is dirt cheap so why not have it.

The 1761 has an all plastic shell and stock 1 year warranty.It has no OS in stock configuration.It doesn't have the 2 screws on the bottom of the notebook that secure the keyboard.The Steelseries backlit keyboard is about a $90 upgrade option.

So add everything up to equal a GT780DX-406 and compare the prices you get form your selected reseller.

 

I move around a lot, being an international student and all that.
When I'm in the US studying then yeah I'm next to the router
But when I'm home for holidays the router is 2 walls away how about the Bigfoot 1102, the 2 antenna one?
I think I might just go with the branded one, getting everything to the same spec (keyboard,ram,HD and such) would result them in like a $50 difference, and barebones only got 1 year warranty

 

Yes, no brushed aluminum, and........

http://forum.notebookreview.com/8261336-post5667.html

 

Ah, Now then I'm sold! I guess I'm gonna get the branded version just so I can be a rightful member of this thread

 

Rightful member? I think I put that as, "you then have a rightful place to hang with us, Owner's of the REAL MSI GT780/783's"...... you know, the COOL kids!

LOL!

 

Now the last question, is 120gb SSD enough :/?
basically it'd be just the boot drive and a few games that relies on I/O speed (swtor I'm looking at you ಠ_ಠ , most other movies/music and games would be on the HDD
and why is that if I go primiary-HDD secondary-SSD , the price would be lower than primary-SSd and secondary-HDD O_O?

 

I think WhatsThe Point is accurate when he says 250GB is the 'sweet-spot' in SSD performance, but the smaller capacity SSD's will still perform leaps & bounds above mechanical HDD's. To answer your question, 120GB will be fine as a primary OS drive, but for optimum usage, it is recommended you not exceed 80% of the SSD's capacity. You should be fine, but this is something to be aware of and monitor. I opted a 250GB SSD primarily for peace of mind and added head-room...... not that I need 250GB, but I sure like having it.

 

I'd like to stay below $1800 and that would exceed it maybe I'll get one later when SSD is no longer $1.5/1gb

 

Well again, 120GB will be fine..... didn't mean to scare you off the thought. I just wanted you to understand you shouldn't exceed 80% capacity.

120GB X 0.80 = 96GB...... should be plenty.

Yes, SSD's are pricey, but GAWD, once you gone this path, there is no going back!

 

$1368 was ONLY with those 3 upgrades I had listed for you, not my config.

Samsung SSD upgrade will set you back $144 and Max Iops at $154. so it's close to $1/gb as an upgrade.

Whatsthepoint is right about my Hyperx 1866, i bought it separately as an impulse buy and now i trying to decide whether or not to keep it. Although, it did helped my Windows Experience Index max out at 7.9 for memory up from 7.6! LOL But other than that it will negligible for gaming.

Anyone wanna buy it?

 

I'll start my own club with no "brands" allowed! 1761 only...

Seriously though, why has nobody started a 1761 lounge? Guess they are too similar? I mean that's why I'm here.

 

OS+office+swtor is probably gonna 50gb, I guess 46gb left is good enough for me

 

If it's cheaper configuring that way then buy it that way.

When you get it you can open the bottom and move the drives around or just set the bios boot order to where the SSD is ahead of the hard drive.

The Intel 520 SSDs and the OWC Extreme SSD have a 5 year warranty.

The Patriot Wildfire firmware can be updated while it's the boot drive.Most others need to be a non boot drive meaning a Linux method if you don't have another drive with an OS on it.

A 240GB SSD after formatting has 223GB of usable storage space.Now factor in what -=$tR|k3r=- mentioned where you always need to leave 15%~20% as free space so the SSD can perform correctly.

Don't worry too much about SSD synthetic benchmarks.

 

Well, GT780/783's ARE the topic here, right? BUT, you can hang out with the cool kids if ya like. I don't mind. I think you are 'probably' an OK guy..... and maybe even cool enough. I'll just feel a little sorry for you everytime I see MS-1761 in your sig.

LOL!



Oh and BTW, I HAVE encourage some of you folks start a 1761 Owner's Lounge, but none YET has taken the initiative. (hint, hint)

ROFLMFAO

 

​

When I get the laptop, I can just update the driver of the SSD, then grab an ISO of the windows 7, go into BIOS, switch the SSD to be the boot drive and install windows 7 on it with the serial under the battery right?
btw I think I'll get the OCZ Vertex 3 MAX IOPS , is that a good option?

 

I personally like the Intel 510/520 series SSD's, and their toolbox does a nice job of optimization and management.

Intel® Solid-State Drive 510 Series

Intel® Solid-State Drive 520 Series

Intel® Solid-State Drive Toolbox

Managing Your Intel® Solid-State Drive

 

Right now I'm kinda deciding on Samsung 830 or Intel 520 (both 120-128gb)
I've heard some people said that the 830's speed difference between each size is smaller, while 120gb 520 is quite a bit slower than 240gb. So would the samsung be a good choice?

 

I perfectly understand your dilemma. I partly bought mine from NewEgg because they offer no interest payment but in hide-sight I would just bought it outright from one of the guys here. I just want to give you cautionary tales about what I have to go through with mine 780 (and there is at least one other guy here that post about his problem with MSI).

As for wait or buy it now, well that is always eternal question for us tech junkies. Personally I always buy my tech one or two step down from the top this way to me I get the most bang for my bucks. It's not the latest and greatest but it also doesn't come with huge premium price tag. I knew the 580M was around the corner but I went with 570M because the price (for me) is perfect.

Whatever you decided to do best of luck.

 

I was going to say I am doubtful that they would have lemon policy but you could always pursuit that via either your credit card (if you bought on credit card and it has a protection warranty) or your local consumer agency. You could also contact BBB in California where MSI is located and file complain with them. Their customer service is a joke and I doubt at this point you will get satisfactory result, but best of luck to you anyway.

As for my 780DX, I got it from NewEgg and I RMA the notebook via NewEgg and not MSI. While NewEgg policy said exchange only on notebook they did offer me money back (which I should have take then). By the time I start having more problem with my 2nd replacement it was out of RMA period, thus force me to deal with MSI.

I had similar experience with Alienware few years ago (this was just before they were bought out by Dell). I bought desktop computer from them (I used to build my own in my younger year) and continued to have problem with them and they keep fixing it until the warranty ran out and after that they said oh well too bad. My friend (who was the one told me to go with Alineware, had the exact same problem with his laptop, I remember he literally used it as a doorstop because it too was out of warranty after sending it back for months and months).

Again best of luck. My next computer definitely I will go with one of the vendor here and hope for better quality built or at least a better customer service.

 

Code:

Tell me how it goes. I'm having a similar issue.

Would you accept a 80% refund?

 

having 2 120gb SSD's in 2 machines i'd say go for the 250gb drive instead, its kinda tight with just the os (swap and hiberfile included goes up to 30gigs wasted if you leave them) and steam 30+gigs depending on your games.

i'd say go with the 250gb drives its both the sweet spot and just enough room for everything for a long time. add a 500 or 750gb hdd and you've got a good set up.

 

There's so many great SSDs out in the marketplace now with performance very close to each other that we need to look at the extras that manufacturers are adding to get people to select their offerings.

Free games,cloning software,toolboxes and longer warranty are some of the things I'm seeing.

Intel's 5 year warranty and their toolbox are 2 very good reasons to buy a 520 series.

Choices,choices choices;the more we have the harder it is.

I have 3 Vertex 3 MAX IOPS and 2 Vertex 2(34nm) SSDs but I don't know if I'd buy another OCZ V3 MI today if I were in the market for a new SSD.

I like what I hear about the new SanDisk Extreme SSDs but the lack of a toolbox would make me hesitant.

The Plextor M3 Pro looks good on paper.

The memory is the fuel of SSDs.

The memory used varies greatly.

 

Oh thanks, I think now I'll just go with the Intel 520 240gb then

 

trust me ... i just experienced mine

Reliability > performance

I am quite regret that i did not go with Crucial M4 or Intel 510 ... I could have gone 520 if it was released that time i bought my GT783

 

I originally updated my primary drive to a 128GB OCZ Vertex 3 and updated the firmware immediately as recommended. Since then I acquired a Samsung 830 512GB from J&R and set it as my secondary drive. I have had no blue screens whatsoever and continue to travel (travel = fly) with this unit every week since purchase. (June 2011)

I travel all over the country for work. (USA) On the road my PC is my form of entertainment. I currently enjoy Skyrim and Eve Online. One of my daughters is trying to get me to sign up for Guildwars 2 beta.
I was lucky when I purchased my 780R thought Newegg after returning an ASUS through Amazon when the original INTEL chipsets were recalled. I had no troubles with my NewEgg except for the bright ALT-GR and CTRL keys on my Steel Series keyboard. When the time comes I will definitely purchase my next system through one of the providers here to assure proper function and performance. This thread continues to be an awesome benefit.

 

I have the same experience and completely agree.

I have used various models from these manufacturers, Crucial , Intel, OCZ and Samsung ssd's. The only one that I do not trust at all is OCZ. I have had a number of issues with there V2 drives and gave up on them. The V3's might have a little better record but I will let someone else risk it.

I would find the cheapest or best deal between the Samsung 830, Crucial M4 or Intel and get that. They are all very reliable and whatever speed difference that is presented on paper will never be noticable in real life. Of all of the ssd's I have used, they all seem IDENTICAL in speed regardless of what some benchmark might say.

 

BAREBONERS RULE, BRANDERS DROOL! <--(tosses pebble femininely and runs away from mob back to my lounge...)

 

Torches and sharpened pitchforks for sale!
Or cakes we can offer you cakes to defect to us

 

NICE! Appropriately replied in your new thread..... run along now lil' girlie!

http://forum.notebookreview.com/8371288-post4.html

LOL!

 

What exactly is wrong with your 240GB Patriot Wildfire?

You seem to be unhappy with all your purchase choices.

 

I've had my WD HDD for about 4-5 months now. It has started to do loud click-noise.

I google'd "click-noise HDD" and found that it accures when HDDs are about to die.

However, I play games and listen to music on my HDD and there are no lockups or "corrupt stuff" on the HDD. But the clicking have become more frequent and louder. NOTE: OS IS NOT INSTALLED ON THIS HDD, IT'S ON THE SSD AND I'VENT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH WINDOWS ITSELF.

Some say it's because the WD HDD goes into "sleep mode" that it starts clicking. Any opinion on this?

Let's say the HDD is beginning to destroy itself (and I've done absolutely nothing to make it so).

My laptop was "defected" right in the beginning but my localstore keeps telling me the laptop is very healthy;

- No DIRT3 game/code
- Corrupt keyboard
- HDD starting to fail within a few months?

So does anyone know if the clicking is because the WD HDD going into sleep mode or if it's starting to fail?

 

I'd say backup your data and expect the unexpected.
One can never estimate the life of a HDD.

 

I'll take it as the harddrive is failing then

 

You can try to force it to "stay awake" permanently by fiddling with your settings under Power Options>Your Active Plan> Hard Disk> Never Sleep. If that doesn't get rid of the noise contemplate backing up all your pertinent data, and attempt to get the HDD replaced via warranty. Absolute worst case scenario you'll have to shell out about $100 to get a new Hdd if the noise isn't solvable and becomes unbearable.

 

80% refund? Do you know how I can get one? I paid $1800 back when the GT780R-014US just came out last summer, I'm sure by now the price has dropped 20% and I could get a better machine for $1440.

I know what my problem is and what has caused it (RMA Dept was replacing my RAM and took it upon themselves to replace my fan and now my keyboard makes a Rice Krispies static noise at random times). Unfortunately, I am not tech-savvy enough to know how to fix it myself and when I send it back for RMA they claim they can't hear the noise and refuse to open it up and just check the fan!!!

Anyway, I'll be sure to update on this board once my machine comes back.

 

First run winsat disk from an elevated command prompt to see if your drive is reading and writing well.

Then,

Detecting a Failing Hard Drive with S.M.A.R.T.



If any of the sensors have a yellow triangle or any of the five sensors listed above have a non-zero event count, you should backup your data to another drive and run other drive tests.

http://www.aplusperfect.com/files/GetSMART.zip


Western Digital Diagnostics;
WD Support / Downloads / WD Scorpio & AV-25 / WD Scorpio Black

 

does anyone have the links the correct drivers for my gt783r.

 

Post #1

 

Any particular drivers you need?

Post #4973 has many links to drivers and software.

The drivers,utilities and software for the GT78x series are all just about the same for all models with Windows 7 x64 with SP1 installed.

 

I just had to send back my 780GT-406 back to GenTech since something was wrong that caused it to continue giving me BSODs. It would start with some weird corruption stuff in Win7, and then blue screens. Ken gave me some tips to try, including pulling some of the memory, and I reseated the HDs (2 750GB drives, not raided), and I even wiped the OS and reinstalled Win7. I have had the PC for a month, maybe 2 hours of actual use during that time where the laptop was acting OK. The rest of the time (~15-20 hours) was spent trying to get the thing to run right, or leaving it powered off because it would blue screen so what was the point.

I hope GenTech can fix it. My cost per hour usage so far is abysmal Hehe.

Kev

 

Will let you know what's wrong with the unit after we receive it.

 

Hi Kev & Welcome to the Party!

Not to worry...... you are in good hands. Though a hassel & inconvenient, there is NO DOUBT Ken will straiten this out for you, and your issue will be resolved expediently. Sounds like possibly a memory issue, and there have been a few complaints with the stock ram..... but for most, the stock ram has been stable and error free.

Good luck, and I am sure you'll have your 'error-free' system back shortly.

 

I have no complaints about GenTech, I went with them because of all the positive feedback about them on this forum/thread. Ken has been great to deal with, I just hope this is something that is easy enough to diagnose. I am pretty good with PCs, and I was getting frustrated! The problem I was having could be narrowed to so many things...memory, hard drive, mobo, etc.

When the laptop was running right, it was good!

 

ok guys, been pondering on this one. ive heard some ppl say that its better to get an ssd instead of upgrading the cpu. so performance wise which is the better option and budget wise too. gt783 2670m gtx580 16gb 750gb hdd bigfoot 1103

 

Well, to make it easier, if you upgrade your CPU you might jump your WEI rating by .1 but if you upgrade your hard drive you would be going from 5.9 with standard HDD to 7.6-7.9 with the SSD where would you spend your money for the biggest gains?

I would recommend upgrading to an SSD and save yourself the money unless that CPU upgrade is about $50-70, then I would give it some consideration.