--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

is there a Sentelic Touchpad driver more recent than v9.1.7.7 from 2011 ?

edit: found this page, for updated drivers, should be the latest: http://www.station-drivers.com/page/sentelic.htm

 

for those who have noticed their music and audio in various websites is choppy

DPC Latency Checker - Very useful for troubleshooting lag or media dropouts

 

Well the NVIDIA GeForce 313.95 beta driver was glitchy and was replaced with 313.96 beta.

313.96 beta is available on geforce.com

 

@axelfoley86 Remove all your ram, test each stick one at a time I had this exact issue which I even posted about a few months back(maybe a little longer ) and one of my ram sticks had failed....all that would happen is you hear the fan come on, no screen, no HD activity lights, and no warning beeps, after slamming my head into numerous walls over a week long period of trying to figure it out it turned out to be a faulty stick of ram so I'd try this before spending money or giving up.

 

Hey guys,
got an RMA after my laptop just died on me after Xmas.
For anyone who has had an RMA before, is there a document supplied with the laptop telling you what the problem was and if anything has been changed?
I'd like to know as I want to take steps to prevent not having to get another RMA in the future.

Also, I'm thinking of doing a fresh install when I get it back. Is there a comprehensive guide on which drivers to install first, what the best way to go about it is, etc?

Thanks in advance.

 

The primary order is chipset drivers / VGA drivers / everything else.

 

I usually do this order

Intel Chipset Installation Software
Wireless Driver
NetFramework 4.5
Graphics Driver
Sound Driver
USB 3.0 Driver
Browser and plugins
Intel MEI
Windows Updates
Run WEI

MSI Utilities

Protection Sotware

For the GT78x series see more info in this linked post.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

 

Awesome, thanks guys! I cannot wait for my laptop to be back. Feel like I'm missing a limb!

 

@WTP: speaking of windows installation, if i move the msi recovery partition off the boot drive to a usb drive, do you know if the recovery installer will find the boot drive after if i need to reinstall?

its about 10gigs and i'm thinking of getting a 16gb usb3 drive to put it on, or even an external hdd in a case.

What i'm wondering about is, if the installer will find the ssd and install windows there, like if i keep the partitions named properly "system, os_install, data" ?

or does the recov absolutelly must reside on the same drive as those partitions?

 

From what I have read there's not much wiggle room for the partitions and partition naming.

You need to make sure your C: partition is called OS_INSTALL and D: partition is called DATA

If you presently have a good working D partition named DATA then why not use the MSI Burn Recovery app and make the disks.

Test the disk(s)/flash drive out on a spare drive before you wipe the partition.

All my MSI notebooks and the ones I setup for others were shipped without an OS so I'm no expert on recovery partitions.

I uploaded the Burn Recovery app to my mediafire account for anyone that needs it
http://www.mediafire.com/?fg6i7z5m2j0jvvo

EDIT:maybe creating an image with Acronis True Image Home Edition is a better solution after a clean Windows 7 x64 installation is done.

 

ah ok, i'll do some tests here.

i've already created the usb key with the win 7 iso from DigitalRiver, i used the microsoft usb/dvd tool too make it, might as well go with the source on this one.

the only down side is having to type the serial key located under the laptop. i hate those things. if only there was a way to get it from the bios or some chip.

anyway, i just installed the Samsung 840 Pro 256GB in my 2nd bay and here are the Anvil Pro rc6 results:



and just for fun here's the Vertex 4 256GB tests , as you can see, the Vertex 4 is left in the dust.



Now if anyone has an OCZ Vector here, please give us the benches, i'd like to know how the Vector fares against the vertex 4 and samsung 840 pro.

 

@smitty

The 4K and 4KQD numbers are the important ones.

You benchmarked the V4 while it was the boot drive in use 1/3 filled with data.

The Samsung 840 was the E drive without any data so it was benchmarded from a different drive.The 840 is showing as 19.5GB in size????

The next time you do a clean Windows 7 x64 installation with the bios set to AHCI don't install the Intel RST;just use the MSAHCI storage driver built into W7.

Just make sure Write Caching is enabled and you're using the high performance power plan while running synthetic benchmarking programs.

SSDs will usually benchmark better when they have no data installed and are benchmarked from another drive booted into Safe Mode.

 

the 20gb partition was made so i could benchmark the drive. i've since deleted it and made a 214gb single partition with 23gb over-provisioning free space.

i'll do some tests with a fresh windows install.

but the vertex has always benched lower than 500mb/s and at 409 i'm not surprised. when i got it i did the same tests and at best it read a 470mb/s and wrote lower than 400. disappointing to say the least. i told myself atleast it writes faster with incompressible data.

i've read some comparison articles on Samsung's 840 Pro Series SSD reviewed - The Tech Report - Page 1

now my question is should i flash with the new firmware or not... i want to know if flashing it will improve or atleast not lower any scores. i'm still on the fence at this hour.

anyway, good tips my friend !

edit: well, after reading that review more thoroughly, its clear the new firmware DXM04B0Q gives better performance than the original on the drive, it brings the dirty speeds similar to freshly erased speeds.

 

fresh windows 7 install (not msi recovery)



AHCI in bios and no intel rapide storage tech installed.

WTP: i used your installation instructions, i do have a missing driver tho: smbus controler.

and i can confirm the killer gaming network manager for windows 8 installs and works fine on windows 7.

 

I installed the MSI Super Charger utility on my GT780. When I connect my girlfriend's Iphone 4 the app launches and charging begins at it's faster than normal rate like it should.
Question is: can I enable the same mode when I connect my Galaxy S3?
I searched around but could not find anything useful. This way would be very convienent as you could only take the data cable with you.
I think it should be possible since at MSIs page it says "smartphones". Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Is the power option set to high performance when benchmarking and the notebook left at idle for 10~20 minutes before benchmarking for trim to do it's magic.Did you run the Microsoft WEI to optimize the OS for an SSD.My WEI is 7.3.

The smbus controler driver is installed when the Intel Chipset Installation Software is put in..Look in Device Manager>System devices>Intel 6Series/C200 Series Chipset Family SMBus Controller-1C22

I'm using the Atheros 10.0.0.221 driver for the 1102 in a netbook and the 1103 in the GT780DX on W7 and W8.

On some bootups using the Killer 437 driver/software it would take almost a minute for a red x on the wireless icon to turn yellow then all white bars.With the Atheros I don't have the Bigfoot Network Manager to fine tune the connection but the connection is always made as soon as the bootup reaches the desktop.

I charge my Galaxy Note 2 using a USB 3 port with iCharger while the notebook is on AC Power.

It will also charge using a normal USB powered port without the charging app installed and the bios setting made.

 

high perf yes , idle for hours when i took the snapshot, right now its a secondary drive in the laptop.

The samsungs wei index is 7.3 but that's only b/c of the vid card. The Samsung's perf is 7.9 and so is the vertex. cpu and ram 7.5 and 7.6 resp.

Anyway here's the screenshot of Anvil Storage on it, freshly secure erased with the ocz toolbox, cold boot and rested for a good ~30mins.



not too shabby, but not quite samsung speeds yet. These new screens have just been taken on a bare drive with a secure erase after 1st set of tests. my 1st test with 0-fill had dismal speeds 416MB/s yuck!

So the 2nd erase must've unlocked something. i'm kind of happy with those seq speeds. the 4K and 4K QD4 are a tad higher than the samsung's yet i think it boots faster than the vertex 4. i'm going to clone the samsung on the vertex and do a quick boot racer test to verify this.

first thing i did was install intel_chipset_9.4.0.1007 from intel drivers pour chipsets
but i think they might be missing something, now when i try to rerun the setup.exe from the zip it says i don't have the minimum requirements the installer will stop. Guess i'm screwed, gonna have to install intel_inf_9.3.1.1009 which might lead to system instability since i can't remove them from the control panel.

i have the KillerSetup_6.1.0.437_Win8_64bit drivers installed, i'd say maybe 5-10 seconds, 20 at most. i'd just rather not have the manager installed at all i want all my apps going fast. but for now just testing if these could be installed, i'd say a definit yes!

the killer win 7 drivers v395 have a bug in them that stalls in certain configs so i didn't want to use them this time, Unusual Connectivity Issue for Wireless N 1103 but there is a work around with beta drivers.

However the win 8 don't seem to be affected by that bug.

idk if i like the killer manager or not yet, i tried the atheros but i don't remember if i had same throughput and fast connect.

 

You'll probably won't get the benchmark results that are seen on review sites that mostly benchmark clean drives with 0% data on them from a boot drive in safe mode.These are also done on more powerful desktops where C States can be turned off in the bios resulting in higher numbers.

The newest Sansung 840 Pro review I found is on techpowerup
Samsung 840 Pro SSD 256 GB Review | techPowerUp

You can stop the Bigfoot Network Manager from running by unchecking the box in msconfig>startup.

You don't need it after the initial Killer wireless card setup

I got Anvil scores of 4300 on an empty 240GB SanDisk Extreme with MSAHCI but with data on it the score dropped to 3900.More than half full it dropped to 3700.

The Samsung 840 series suffers from inconsistency.

 

well the clone was done and rebooted on to the vertex now, the bootracer times are roughly the same as with the samsung, maybe 1 second diff.

i'm in the process of windows updates. yet i just know this is going to affect the boot times *sigh*

as for inconsistency, idk yet where did u see that?

 

well now i'm impressed with the vertex 4, look at these boot times, and that's even after windows updates

 

question to all: what do you think of ASUS Turbo 3.0 for usb 3 speeds and does msi have something like it ? (or can we use it on msi laptop?)

 

Hi guys,

I just upgraded to windows 8, and got a problem with my WIFI disconnecting and reconnecting, after installing the most updated drivers the problem was gone.

Just a heads up in case someone else is having a hard time with this.

My Adapter is an Intel Wireless N 130, and the drivers I used were from intel's page directly http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=22005&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%208%2C%2064-bit*&DownloadType=Software%20Applications

I only downloaded the drivers wireless_15.3.50_De64.exe, for some reason updating the software either from Intel's page or Station Driver was not working for me.

Regards!

 

WTP: i saw a rom update for raid chipsets on intel drivers pour Raid/Sata/Ata/Ahci

i'm trying out raid 0 right now with both my SSDs, its pretty smooth and i get good speeds loading up games and such, tho boot times is still in the 10-12 second range for booting to login. i did get great 7-8 second boot to login with all my SSDs in single and just AHCI no IRST. so that is cool. so i'm just trying out the raid for fun, i know its risky and need to constantly back up the puter, but i'm just messing around, it won't stay raid, its too risky.

anyway, so my OROM is v10.1.0.1008 in the raid config screen just after the bios screen.

how do i update this ? and is it safe to update with this version 11.5.0.1347 or are there bugs ? mostly i'm already using a raid setup is it safe or will it break something ?

 

I made a post about this awhile back for someone else in this thread.

The OROM on station-drivers is not the newest.
AHCI/RAID ROM modules for BIOS modding - already extracted - BIOS/BIOS-Modding - Win-Lite Forum

The usual way to get a newer Intel Option Rom update is in a new bios version from MSI but it seems there will be no more bios updates for the GT78x series.

The OROM has no exe file or update utility.The only way to update your OROM is to mod a bios rom with correct tools or have(pay) someone like SVET from the Official MSI forum do it.

If you want to try it yourself here's the tools and instructions.
BIOS-Modding: How to update PCI ROM modules of an AMI/Phoenix/Award BIOS - BIOS/BIOS-Modding - Win-Lite Forum

 

Okay - I've done the searches and nothing worthwhile seems to be showing up. I have a stock gt780dx and the trackpad makes me nutz. Is there a way to disable the trackpad when there is a usb mouse plugged in? I'm tired of just the disable button which only stays disabled until the computer is rebooted. I almost always use a usb mouse so that's the ideal option. However, there is no indicator on the control panel to "disable the trackpad when a usb mouse is plugged in" like other Windows 7 laptops seem to have...

 

thanks my friend, but i think i'll just pass on this, i'd rather not brick my laptop for a little experiment

it depends which touchpad you have sentellic or synaptics?

if the synaptics mouse driver is already installed, double-click the icon and go in the last tab to put a checkmark in the checkbox

if sentellic, use v9.1.77: SENTELIC drivers

 

Its Synaptics but there is no box to check. The last tab is hardware and the only option is Microsoft PS/2 Mouse...

 

yes my bad, i sent off the mesg without linking to the instructions properly : read here if you want to disable the touchpad

 

For you guys with Samsung SSDs there's a new version of Samsung Magician,version 4.0,dated February 5.2013.

Look in the SSD forum for info and link or head to Samsung Support.

 

My GT783R shuts down when playing games. I have cleaned the fan and heat sinks for both the processor and the GPU and put new thermal paste on. Its gotten worse over time, and is still occurring.
My GPU is between 70-80C when the problem occurs, and the CPU is in the 50s. I have noticed a slight wax burning smell coming from the computer off and on. I did try swapping the memory out, but this did not fix the issue.
I see this problem mentioned a few times in this thread, but without the resolution.

So for the people that have had this issue what was the resolution? I'm really close to buying a new GTX580m card, but hate the idea of throwing parts at the laptop until it is fixed.

 

I'm having a similar issue, but its not limited to games GT783-625us is a few months short of a year old. I'm getting a shutdown and restart issue randomly, could be while in a game, could be while sitting on the desktop or just browsing the net. I've got no error messages aside from "Your computer was not shutdown correctly" All temps are normal or better(like my room real cold), I cleaned out any dust (removed cover and used air compressor not a can) I run Win7 Pro 64bit, and I have not done a fresh install since I received the laptop. I am a bit confused by this, so any tips or thoughts are appreciated. Oh, and upon purchase the CPU and thermal paste were upgraded by Xotic PC so that should be ok I would think, and like I said all temps are well within range or better. Also, I don't over clock, never even use the P1 button even though Its suppose to be safe, I've always gamed without it with no issues. I will also add I game like a mad man, 8-12hrs at a time sometimes normally 3-6hrs 2-3 times in a 24hr period.

 

When was the last time a clean Windows 7x64 installation was performed?

Have you used registry cleaning apps or system optimizing programs that sometimes remove important pieces of registry entries or system files?

Is the power plan set to high performance and no setting for saving power?

AC Power Adapters are only warrantied for 6 months and sometimes fail to deliver enough power for gaming and even normal web surfing.

 

Never done a clean install, no registry cleaning, I have tried different power settings, including running the processor at 50%, but the different power settings don't help. I have run battery only and this fixes the issue, but of course the 580 is running in some sort of low power mode. Is there an easy way to eliminate the power adapter, without buying one? Is there any internal power supply that could be at fault?

Also what do you think of the burning wax smell. I think it may be the special tape attached to the heat sink but I'm not sure.

 

Something's overheating for sure, 70c in game is ok, but what's your idle in just windows ?
i'm thinking your repasting didn't take, too much i guess, or too little TC or you dropped some on a component nearby.

After 20mins idle and no big progs running (no antivirus etc), does it also idle in the high 60-70's celsius ?

if so, i would start by redoing the paste using good TC like Arctic Cooling MX4 or any other mentioned here in prev pages. but when you remove the heatsink look at where the paste didn't go that's a clue to fix your previous attempt. you'll have to clean it off and retry.

Have a look around maybe you smeared some TC without knowing on some component. that might account for the smell.

Here's the thing, the less TC you use the more the plates need to touch to transfer heat. there's a point where you don't want too much TC either, when you have a mattress under there its too much lol. basically its just there so the air between the 2 plates is filled up. Get those plates touching !

So i would start with a spread around with your finger like WTP says here: Helpfull guide to applying TC: http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-808.html#post9043560
basically its ok to see through the paste at the cpu. that's how thin you want it. no gaps just spread thin.

WTP and my post also offers some youtube/info on how to do it: http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-808.html#post9043474

Too much TC won't transfer the heat properly, so if you need like a mattress under there (lol) you might want to change the pads so your heatsink plate is closer to the cpu to use less TC, as suggested by Meaker here http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-808.html#post9042501

@Meaker do you have any suggestion what/where to buy for those 0.5mm pads?

You should have enough TC left in your tube do a test: to drop a a pea size, spread it around and clamp the heatsink down on the motherboard with the screws like if you were to actually do it, then lift it off and see where the TC didn't go or if it spread, if there's a clean spot on the heatsink you can bet that spot isn't making contact with the cpu since the rest of the TC is basically acting like a cushion, you need to spread it around better if that's the case or add a bit. it takes a couple tries to figure out for each cpu+heatsink combination out there. the TC should allow you to lift off once, its ok to clamp it back down for good but if you ratther clean it and restart its your dime.

Start er up and check your temps, if it idles below 50c then you'll know you've done it right.

By idle temps i mean go into msconfig, hide M$ services and disable anything else. Same for startup progs in the next tab.

Remember: too little or too much TC won't transfer heat well, it's only there to fill in the gap of air between cpu+heatsink, too much and it'll bleed around and you don't want that either. i suspect that's that waxy smell you have, but i could be wrong.

Here's something WTP and i wrote previously on method to using the thermal paste: http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-808.html#post9043599

 

I believe that my idle temps are OK, After 20 minutes my GPU is 40 and CPU is 46.

 

my gpu at complete idle is around 34c and my cpu is usually around 48-52c. Crysis 2 on ultra my GPU still only hits about 76 cpu is usually around 69-72c, ive had these temps since I purchased back in april 2012.

never used a reg cleaning prog, and never did a fresh install. My issue is random, gaming or not, browsing or not. When I posted my original message it had happened 5 times in an hr period, its been on and stable for about 6hrs now with no issues.

A friend of mine suggested ram, I attempted to check ram for errors using the windows memory diagnostic but in 2hrs time the program was stopped at 10% on first pass so I canceled out of it. So I usually can figure out my issues but this one has got me

 

Also, assuming i was willing to through parts, what are my options? I found the 580 here:
MSI Genuine MS-16F2, MS-1761, GT783, GT783R Nvidia GTX 580M 2.0GB VGA Card 607-1W051-06S

Is there a cheaper option?
Where's the mother board available?

 

i think you might have nit the nail on the head with the ram,

if you have 12-16gb then you have 3 or 4 ram modules, typically you'll have 2 rams under the laptop and 2 under the keyboard. the 2 ram modules under the keyboard are a P.I.T.A to remove so just remove the bottom 2 rams and test the 2 remaining rams.

if they pass then you're in luck, you won't have to remove the keyboard. if they don't pass then imho you'd be better off getting an MSI tech to fix it for you.

if they pass then one of the 2 removed modules might be defective, so put 1 in and test it, then put the other in and test it. at that point you'l have 3 ram modules testing at once. but start with just the 2 under the keyboard by removing the 2 easily accessible rams under the laptop.

 

Why buy parts?

Isn't the notebook still under warranty?

 

It is and I have an RMA in place, But it's worth 100-200 dollars to me to not lose my laptop for weeks. If I could just replace a RAM chip and keep working, I would do it.

 

So I finally got to test my ram (Windows Memory Diagnostics would not work for me at all) so I used MemTest86, checked each stick individually with no errors......I'm lost now, could an SSD maybe starting to go cause random reboots? Or even just something screwed up in windows? I'm considering putting in an extra HDD that I have laying around to test the functionality and see if anything happens (before formatting and reusing the SSD). Personal thoughts are appreciated, I honestly am in the same boat as redrum about RMA'ing my system on account of the time it takes but I would in the most extreme conditions but if I could fix it myself I would rather. Thank you in advance

 

well if u want to test if its your ssd or windows, using another drive is the way to go.

However, why not just backup your current windows, use acronis or Reflect from Macrium Reflect Backup and Hard Disk Imaging for Windows 7, Vista, XP and Server 2003/2008 and make an image of the whole drive. i tried norton ghost but it messed up the restore, so i don't recommend it.

Then create a Win 7 install on a usbkey (4gb i'd recommend an 8 gb for more space) with the Microsoft Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool here: Microsoft Store Online

and get your drivers too from the msi website or Station-Drivers before all that. you should have enough room fo the important drivers on your 4gb usb key.

You could do a wipe of your ssd with parted magic, but i think it would be best to delete your partitions from the win7 installer and let trim do its thing a few mins before installing. Parted magic will wipe internally which is fine but i heard it will also reset the damaged cell count, which if its true, means resetting bad sectors to good sectors but they'll still be bad, so more corruption even before you install windows. i'll have to ask patrick verner this.

let us know, and btw, with a usb key installin win 7, is less than 7mins done overall with the all reboots the installer requires. so its quick and easy. i tried this on a usb 2.0 key, i'm awaiting a usb 3 key anyday.

 

What do yall think of the Kingston Datatraveler Ultimate G3 32GB? (DTU30G3/32GB)

Goes at 150mb/s read - 70mb/s write, and of course the reviews are raving about it and ys it can do those speeds according to those reviews.


35$ at various stores is a bit pricey but i guess i don't mind paying 1$/GB for that much usb 3 speed, it's faster than the WD HDD that came in this laptop.

 

Thanks for the tip smitty, I will try that when I'm ready. I do have another question, is anyone familiar with MemTest86? I tested each stick individually in the same slot with no errors, now that I have all 3 sticks in I'm receiving errors during the Block Move test(50 errors on 2 passes), I'm getting mixed info that the errors might not be an issue or they might be so its hard to know for sure, I'm gonna go ahead and retest in a different slot, my biggest fear is that one of my mem slots on my MB is bad or is going bad which I hope its not....

 

memtest86+ is the latest, but as i said previously if you can remove all mem sticks and do them one at a time, you'll know which has the problem.
or you could just test that 3rd one in another laptop alone. it might be the one.

you have 4 sticks, remove 3 and test 1. then remove that one and test another 1 and so on. each separately.

But that also means taking out the keyboard right WTP ? so if you don't want to get into that you should RMA it to msi.

 

no no thats what I mean, I did test each one, I removed them all then tested each 1 in one of the slots under the computer no errors. Upon putting them all back in, 2 under the keyboard 1 in the bottom I am now receiving errors, all my latency numbers are correct and voltages are all normal according to cpu-z. I'm gonna go on long night quest and test each stick in each slot, I got all the tools so the keyboard removal is better then not having my computer for a month I only have 3 sticks Corsair Vengeance 1866mhz 12gb

 

ok so when all 3 are connected you get that problem, and your voltages are steady ?

i'm starting to wonder what else it could be, if the voltages aren't steady then atleast we could have a clue, it could be the power supply.

try a fresh windows install with 1 ram, then add more rams. it might be something in windows.

 

There's a few USB 3.0 flash drives with SandForce controllers just like in SSDs that can run Windows 7 and 8.They are a bit pricey.

Kingston High Performance Ventura Ultra
Imation Workspace
Kingston Data Traveler Workspace
Super Talent RC8

I have a USB 3.0 32GB Transcend JetFlash 700 and ADATA 64GB N005 Pro.

The ADATA is a bit faster.

The 2 slots under the keyboard are one channel and the 2 slots in the botton are the second channel.

While more ram is always better than less ram sometimes there's lower performance when more than 2 slots are occupied or there's other anomalies.

I usually recommend filling 1 channel with 2 sticks of same menory or all 4 slots with same memory.

Try with only 2 sticks under the keyboard or 2 sticks in the bottom.

 

Ok so here are my findings so far, All sticks of ram are the same CORSAIR Vengeance 4GB 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM 1866Mhz 10-10-10-27 1.5v x4, for this im gonna specify slots 1 & 2 for bottom and slots 3 & 4 for under keyboard. I was originally only testing 3 of them because I thought one was fried months ago, but when I saw moving one of the others to a different slot caused a no boot issue as well I figured I'd try the one I thought was fried again and long behold it booted in a different slot. I will finish testing tomorrow, I'm exhausted this testing is tedious as hell lol

Thank you guys so much for the tips and responses, once I finish testing each stick in each slot solo tomorrow, I'll try the 2 at a time keyboard, then bottom. Then from there I'll try with all 4 in proper locations to see how that goes as well.

Stick 1: slot 1 no issues, slot 2 no issues, slot 3 no issues, slot 4 MemTest kept freezing on test 4, tried 3 times

Stick 2: slot 1 no issues, slot 2 won't boot, slot 3 no issues, slot 4 no issues

Stick 3: slot 1 errors, slot 2 no issues, slot 3 errors, slot 4 no issues

Stick 4: slot 1 no issues, slot 2 wont boot, slot 3 no issues, slot 4 no issues

I am running with sticks 3 & 4 under keyboard right now with no errors, I am going to attempt to add sticks 1 & 2 in the bottom and test. worse case at least I've got 2 error free under the keyboard and I can stop torturing myself playing houdini with my fingers

 

I had also ram from CORSAIR Vengeance and after while of playing at any 3D game just my laptop starts restartig, and before i had Kingston no problems at all when i put diffrent ram everything start works without problems poor service from CORSAIR and no more CORSAIR products !