--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

where can you buy parts for msi gt783 ?

Ebay is risky , rkcomputers do not care about old parts

 

New Official WHQL NVIDIA GeForce driver version 320.18

Windows 7/8 x64:
Drivers | GeForce

http://us.download.nvidia.com/Windows/320.18/320.18-win8-win7-notebook-release-notes.pdf

Post #4973 updated.

 

anyone know why did my GPU card went boom ( fried )

I was playing World of warcraft in the morning in a 22c room and plugged in power

I did not overclock the gpu and i did turn on the P1 and cooler boost

The temperature was alright ( around 75-80c ) Normally if it reach 85-90c my GPU program will sound a alarm and i will just stop playing

T just went blackout and the gpu fried

 

I would like to know as well, exactly the same happened to me on 4 days ago, was playing WoW, and suddenly the laptop shut off. to be honest i didn't see the temp, i don't use the P1 or the cooler boost

Already send it to MSI for and RMA and returned on the next day (Actually went to pick it up, since I live in the area), My AC power apparently also fried they change it plus the GPU, use to have the Nvidia GTX 560 and they change it for the GTX 670.

On a different note, which configuration you had on WoW video settings? I'm having trouble with some fps dropping to 10-7 when usually I'm at 35-40 with Ultra settings.

 

Ebay is not that risky if you pick know people.

 

@He1p,There's been many reports of GTX580M failures in GT783 models.

Isn't your GT783 still under warranty?

Maybe you can just send the bad card to your reseller if you're certain it's the graphics card that's the problem.

What's the shipping cost vs new card cost from your location to the MSI service center in the US or your reseller?
_________

BTW,the new 320.18 WHQL graphics card driver seems to have fixed the "graphics card has stopped responding but recovered" and mouse pointer freezing I was experiencing with beta 320.00 and 320.14

 

MY reseller told me to go to a msi service centre based on where i live and i did

The service centre is taking quite long to repair saying that they are waiting for the replacement ( 2 weeks already )

The staff also said that i am under warranty so i do not need to pay anything ( hope thats true )'

i CHECKED with DHL and the quote says around 30-50USD to my reseller

 

Some GT783 owners got their repaired notebooks back with a new GTX670M graphics card while others have gotten a new 1762 motherboard and a new GTX670M.

With the original 1761 motherboard there won't be any Optimus with a new GTX670M.

 

Ehhh? So those who had 1762 able to upgrade to gtx 680m ?

Wow that's so lucky

 

Anyone want to take a new Synaptics Touchpad driver for a spin?

If your GT78x was made in Nov 2011 or later you most likely have the Synaptics Touchpad

The downloaded exe file from station-drivers is in French but the driver will install in many languages including English.

Right click on the downloaded exe and put the files into a new folder then open the folder and choose x64 or x86.

Open the correct folder for your OS,click on the setup.exe.and follow the instructions.

It worked on my W7 and W8 installations.

Synaptics v16.6.1.3
Synaptics drivers

 

hello guys, maybe the query i will ask to all of you will be outdated, but due to forum pages are already over 872page, i still opted to ask you guys..

i have a msigt780 laptop i5, 1.5G gpu nvidia gtx560, 500G hdd(2slots, 1vacant)..

my query is... what kind of hdd/ssd is compatible for addition to another slot..

the website below:

http://www.msi.com/product/nb/GT780.html#?div=Specification

750GB SATA 7200rpm+ Intel 120GB SSD
500GB SATA 7200rpm+ Intel 120GB SSD
750GB(4K sector)*2
750GB SATA 7200rpm*2
500GB SATA 7200/5400rpm*2
320GB SATA 5400rpm*2

are these the correct combination?? meaning only a 500G is compatible for my 500G hdd laptop?

 

@sweetnightmare

you want to put a 2nd hdd or an SSD in the 2nd slot ?

since you only have an hdd, i'd put an SSD as boot disk in 1st slot (aka P0), not as a secondary storage.
use your current hdd as storage.

its a really good upgrade and not too costly.

The 256gb SSD is the sweet spot , just leave your non-essential big files on the hdd.

Perso i would reinstall windows/games/etc from scratch and put the hdd in 2nd slot after. Follow Whatsthepoint's install instructions (check above or prev page), works like a charm.

That's what i have right now, samsung 840 Pro 256gb + wd black in 2nd slot.

 

You gotta be kidding me? 670m upgrade?! Something fried on my laptop with 1 month left on warranty and I'm about 2 days from finally receiving it after not having access to a decent pc for almost 4 weeks (took one whole week from where i live to the CA rma center)... They haven't told me anything or what went bonkers. Can i be expecting a delicious surprise or am i wishing too hard? le sigh... time to budget up for the gt60 for now. btw, has anyone have had a BIOS issue where when you enter BIOS and see 100+ boot device listings of the same device? e.g. "ST500blablabla" over and over.

 

If a reboot didn't fix the issue here my be a problem with the Seagate hard drive or drive corruption.

I suggest you download and run Seagate's Sea Tools to test the drive

SeaTools | Seagate

 

i think this problem can occur if you swap out the hdd/ssd a lot.
The cmos keeps the drives as different ones in memory.

A simple CMOS reset should work to clear the list.

Unplug the laptop from the wall
Remove the laptop's POWER battery
Unplug the CMOS battery wire

Press the power button for 10 seconds to drain all the capacitors

Replug the cmos battery wire, put the POWER battery back in the laptop and plug it back into the wall

Power it up and go in bios, load defaults and make sure your raid/ahci settings are back how they were before.

 

I don't think many people swap out drives more than I do.

Every time I swap a drive or drives I need to reset the bios boot order and more often than not chkdsk will want to run after the swap.

The drives in caddies installed in the optical bay run very well and it's impossible most of the time to know the SSD in the optical bay is only performing at SATA II speed compared to when they're in the internal SATA III bays.

The MSI bios has an issue with a Vertex 2(7000+ hrs) cold boot recognition in AHCI where other brand notebooks and desktops don't have theV2 issue.

 

true, that gets annoying at times, but i usualy just leave the hdd in P1 while i swap out P0 but, it has happened to me on a couple occasions to see multiple drives in the bios. i just reset the cmos and it worked out.

 

Hello, i'm the happy owner of a GTX780 DXR (i7-2670QM, GTX 570M, 16GB RAM, 2x500 GB hard drive in raid 0) for around a 1 and half a year, a for a couple of months i'm having issues with MASSIVE fps drops in game that didn't lagged a couple of months/weeks back (GW2, Planetside 2, BF3)...
Everything is running smoothly, but a slightly verying intervals (that are pretty small, a couple of minutes max) FPS drops to very low ammounts. changing graphics seems to have no impact of the intervals and ammounts of drops. What may be wrong, as before there was no such issue (the fact that everyone claims to be running BF3 on high detals with much FPS, and i can barely run it on low is another story)?

From what i've seen the GPU tem idle is beetwin 40 and 50 (rather higher than lower of the 2), and while stressed can go to the higher 80's.
Also, any way to trun on the P1 button's turbo without the laptop's utility bar, as the button seems broken (turbo turns off 10s automatically 10s after truning on).

 

smitty123, I have had tried all the mentioned unmentionables etc., however even after cmos power reset it still rememebered all of my external hard drives including the repeating listing of the boot drive, meaning it didn't reset anything at all despite the power drain/reset/plug/unplug. Later, there were about 200+ listing of the same boot drive listed and even after i delisted them it all came back. later on it took so long in bios to boot (Assuming going through 300+ drives listed) it shut down never to open its eyes again. completely bricked.

i just got it back from rma and it works fine now but i'm still worried, though i'm hoping the motherboard they replaced was the culprit and it'll never happen again.

 

Just from the symptoms, it sounds like your gpu is toggling down power randomly instead of staying fully powered during gameplay. Have you checked your power management settings/modes in nvidia control panel and or windows? high 80s 'C is not unheard of on laptop gpus. Mine is about your temp. I doubt 570m runs any cooler than 560m. Don't know how much you know so i'll just ask, have you tried cleaning the vents? repaste gpu etc?

The P1 thing sounds interesting. I'd like to know too just in case.

 

Power Management set to High Performance?

Try turning off Speed Stepping in the bios.

Turn off all unnecessary running processes or use a program that does it for you.

Do you have at least 20% of your boot drive empty?

Have you done a clean Windows 7 installation recently with newest drivers?

As for the buttons on the touch bar you'd need to lift the whole touch bar up carefully from both ends and see if the ribbon cable is fully attached.

You can use a thin plastic knife or guitar pick inserted between the speaker's outside edge and the groove to lift the edges up.The touch bar is only snapped in....no screws.Don't lift up more than an inch so not to detach the white ribbon cable.

The P1 needs the NVIDIA OC Tool installed

BTW,do you have access to another AC Power Adapter in cause yours is not delivering correct amps steadily.

 

glad you had it fixed, sounds like the problem is resolved and it shouldn't come back now

 

rw-everything has been updated to v1.64 choose 32 or 64bits version.

rw-everything is used with the quiet fan profiles here Serum's gtx570m noisy fans solution

Changelog | RWEverything

 

is true a notice thats msi gt780dx/dxr is compatible with 770m gtx?????? one user anothe forum have tested and works fine ....stay tuned

 

Well pau1ow tested the 780m in a gt60 and it works which bodes well for other models. Would be a nice upgrade you could even look at getting the new cooling system.

 

new cooling system ? tell me more plz

 

I'll add the answers in color for more clarity.

 

Look at the pictures from the new models.

 

nice guys there at gentech they made a video showcase of the gt60 , the new system is showed off at the very end of the video:



now my question is, the all important noise created by the cooling system fan, is it lower or same as my gt780dxr , for 1399$ i could go for a newer laptop if i can sell this one first.

 

Same at load, the bridge lets it idle much quieter.

 

The new cooling system looks like itll hook up fine to the GT78x series laptops, are the plugs the same? To use a nVidia 780m I'm assuming at minimum I'd need the 1762 motherboard since all I got was the GT675m card w/ a replacement 1761 mobo? I really wanna do that if I can!

I'm honestly REALLY disappointed with the GT675m, my GTX580m worked much better (aside from the dying factor) I was able to OC it to 700 core and 1565 clock on my 580 with no issues, anything above 628 cor and 1300 clock cause a driver crash with the 675m with REALLY sucks.

 

As far as I can see the new heatsink mounting is the same yes.

 

Any idea whether I will have trouble if I just hook up my old SATA 3 HDD from an old laptop without any formatting? Since I still have a drive slot left on my gt783 and I was thinking to expand with my old drive.

 

its sata so it should work fine.

if you're really worried you might want to backup your stuff to another drive before doing it.

 

I've read on another thread to use trottlestop to monitor to power consumption...
From what little i understand of all the TS is showing, aparently, from what i've seen during a FPS drop while playing guild wars 2, my VID (Voltage ID) dropped from ~40W to under 10W. Do you think it maybe the cause of my problems, or more like a symptom... and do you think its because of a broken adapter, or something else?

Also, should i set my processor power stable? I've noticed its running up and down from ~2 GHz to ~2.6 GHz (i7-2670QM, system shows its normal power is 2.2 GHz)

 

Your CPU would also show lower wattage when throttling itself due to temperatures.

The drive will likely be reusable just watch the chipset drivers.

 

What should be the temperatures my CPU should be running at? According to throtlestop, idle the cores temps are beetwin 60 and 50, stressed in the 80's, with the max temp for one core reaching up to 98, even though i never saw it.
Here's the pic:

 

tis warm, you should make sure all the dust is cleaned out from underneath to make sure there is proper airflow. if the numbers dont improve with that might be time for a repaste of the chips

 

Is there a special reason you don't want to format it and start fresh?

A clean OS installation while it's the only drive in the system is the way to go to avoid possible issues down the road.

Is it from other than an MSI notebook and has drivers,software and utilities for the old installation taking up space?

Either way,let us know how it works out.

 

Actually this and my desk are the only 2 things under my laptop. And actually i may REALLY need to repaste. I've looked closer, and its the 80's only when the additional ventialtion is on, without it it climb very fast to the higher 90's, with the CPU throttling while reaching around 98-97 while under even medium load (guild wars 2, borderlands, planetside 2, preferred not to test BF3 nor shogun 2).

And no, its not even overclocked... though it may be overclocked by default, as i doubt my CPU is reaching 2.8 GHz all by himself (actually its jumping beetwin 2.0 to 2.8, getting under 2.0 only while throtling)

I guess almost 100 degrees isn't good, huh?

 

does that pad push air up or pull it down? I've seen multiple people using the wrong coolers if it pulls air down, its the wrong cooler. If you have not yet, you should really remove the bottom cover of the unit and blow out any internal dust and try. I mean, you'll have to do it anyway before you re-paste so it won't hurt anything. The P1 buttong engages a factory OC for the graphics card. Also try in bios to disable speed step to see if your processor stops throttling.

 

It's a HDD from another brand of laptop, ACER to be specific. I've just been reading around that I might need to flash the bios for it? Which I was not quite sure why. But I'll give it a shot in a few moments and post results.

I also don't want to format it YET. Mainly because of data on it, and I currently have no external HDD to back it up to. Also, yes it has old drivers on it, mainly ATI drivers and old Intel drivers.

 

I think its putting the temps down, the temperatures were a bit lower since i started using it. Where do i find speed step to disable it?
Also, i'm not sure about opening it... its still on guaratee and the seal isn't broken...
Also, i put a limit of 2.2 GHz on the processor and its not going over 80 degrees on heavy load.

 

I'm pretty sure removing the bottom panel does not void warranty, theres no other way to properly clean it and you will have to remove it to re-paste. Speed-Step is in the BIOS F10 or F11 when it first boots up, I think its under the advanced section.

 

In some regions,Russia for instance,breaking or removing the sticker does void the warranty so I suggest gently peeling it off by placing a thin blade of a cutter under 1 corner.If warranty service is needed,return it to original shipping hardware and put the sticker back on.

Besides turning off Speed Stepping in the bios and setting power option to performance for gaming you can also set the notebook's appearance settings to performance settings in Control Panel>System>Advanced System Settings>Performance

You will lose all your eye candy.


____________

There's a new 2.71 build 6914 Realtek HD Audio driver.
Realtek drivers Audio

After a clean Windows 7/8 installation I suggest 1st installing the Realtek HD Audio driver from the MSI site and then updating to the latest on station-drivers.

After updating the driver the Realtek Audio Manager needs to be setup again.

After setting to 5.1with the settings in my attachment from the default Stereo test that the subwoofer is working.

 

I was wondering what cooling pad would be best for the GT 783 currently? Any suggestions?

 

I have a GT780DX plus many laptops before it and have never found the need for a cooler.

If you're experiencing high idle and load temperatures first clean the fan and exhaust fins and properly reapply a quality thermal paste before investing in a cooler.

A cooler doesn't cool the air in the room so whatever your room temperature is is the same as the temperature of the air being blown by the cooler is.

Cooling the room if possible on hot days is the best option

Raising the back of the notebook up a bit may allow better air flow to the notebooks internal fan.

 

Thank You Sir.

I was thinking of upgrading the CPU to i7 2960XM 3.7Ghz. The HM67 is compatible, but what about other issues such has heating etc?

 

If it were me I'd save the money and get a new model when I had enough together with the cash from a sale of what is presently being used.

A new Haswell CPU gaming notebook or a future model is where you should make the investment.

My GT780DX is handling everything I throw at it so I'm in no rush to pull the trigger on a new model....yet....but I will sooner than later.

I normally buy during the fall refresh but....

My homework is not done yet.

 

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was there any restriction on what combination of HDDs needed for msigt780 laptop?!?!

i have an MSI gt780 laptop with only one HDD... now my warranty has already expired and i was able to open the backside of the laptop... i have seen another HDD bay capable for additional HDD.

here is my specs:
i5
500G HDD
gtx560m nvidia
ultimate windows 7



can i add another 500G? is it capable up to 1T HDD?? or 750G??

lets just leave the SSD option later.. thanks