--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

Installing a new driver disables Turbo, therefore you can remove the software.
Instead, use MSI Afterburner to overclock if desired.

 

I'd use nvidia inspector as I don't believe afterburner can target the non turbo p1 state.

 

Hey y'all! How is everyone? It's been a while since I was last here, and I am unfortunately always asking question. But I just don't know a lot so I can't really help others


So in 2 months this comp is 2 years old. All is good so far, I've had a BSOD a few times, but not consistently (I've had it for repair once after constant BSODs already for bad RAM and after it returned about... 7-8 months ago I've gotten the BSOD probably about 5-10 times, but never consistently). Sometimes I get something that might be memory, sometime drivers, sometime graphics.

ANYWAY, it's almost 2 years, and I am still satisfied with my GT780! But I think I would like to upgrade it as it's been kind of slow lately, and if I connect a projector/TV through HDMI the picture of my movies/tv shows sometimes lags. And sometimes 720p files lag even though nothing is connected. Also, the start-up is slow, and sometimes it's excrutiating (after I type in my password I get a blank screen for 1-2 mins before it starts the usual load, which usually takes about 2-3 mins) So the start-up is usually about 3-5 mins or so. Mostly 5, sometimes even longer. Also the occasional lags in games that definately shouldn't lag.

So, if I want to upgrade it and speed it up a bit, what do you guys think I should do? I am thinking a good old formating will speed things up. Then I'd like to maybe get an SSD. How many GB's is enough when it comes to SSD? I somehow want a 512gb, but it's expensiiiiive. Do I need 512gb?? Do I need more than 2x4gb RAM? (I don't game too much and I don't do movie editing) Anything else I should consider now? Should I get that Treexy Driver Fusion (NEW!..... and replaces the ever popular, Phyxion 'Driver Sweeper') that's posted oon the first page? Anything else? I don't have a huge budget.

Also, side note: If I wanted to get a new PC, and I paid $2050 for this one 2 years ago (I don't live in the US), what do you think the re-sell value would be for my GT780DXR? ( i7-2670QM, 570M 1.5 GDDR5, DDR3 2x4gb, 2x750GB 7200RPM)


edit: I just tried that thing to get "better colors", and I'm not sure I like it. I'm not saying I don't like it, but I would like to switch back and forth and see what I like more. How do I revert a change of color (I'm talking about this: http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-382.html#post8008892)

 

welcome back bigbadVuk !

first i would definetly give a reformating a try, that's never a bad thing after 2 years especially.

then definetely get an SSD, 256MB is the sweetspot of course in terms of price and space. do give it some 30gigs of unalocated space at the end to keep it purring long time.

If that doesn't get you over the speed bump, then look back a couple pages there's someone talking about adding a new video card to their computer and explained how they did it. So that could be an avenue to take aswell.

As for the black out at logon screen, it happens to me too but i have a sneaky suspicion it might be a network problem or a network drive shortcut on my desktop (or in them libraries in explorer) that might be causing it, since the network is loaded very late in the booting game, idk could be a clue.

as for ram, 8gigs is plenty for anything, but with an SSD its not a bad idea to get more. tom's hardware or anandtech did an article some time ago about more ram better for ssd ? sorry i can't remember the title but i think it sounded like that.

anyway, hope this helps, oh and if you want a good solid SSD to buy, get a samsung 840 pro 256gb. skip the 840 evo is just a 840 non-pro rebranded. here's a quick comparison: Speed Test Samsung 840 Evo 250GB vs Pro 256GB MZ-7TE250BW MZ-7PD256BW

course the evo should be lower priced than the pro, so its up to you. if you don't already have an SSD, go with the evo, you'll never know the diff with the pro, but you will see a huge diffrence with a normal HDD. trust me, i'm never going back to hdd as boot&game drive.

 

Like so many other owners on this forum my GT780DX just keeps purring along.

I almost pulled the trigger on a barebones 1763 with the GTX780M but never did.

I have 3 SSDs in my GT780DX with the DVD removed.

I do clean installs about every 3 to 4 months mainly because I like to clear junk off,have it so I can do it rather quickly plus I have the time.

I spend most of my time now on my Windows 8.1 installation but Windows 7 still has a place in my PCs.

SSDs are the way to go.Hard drives are just too slow.

I've owned 13 SSDs but if I were to buy an SSD today the SanDisk Extreme II would be my 1st choice.

AnandTech | SanDisk Extreme II Review (480GB, 240GB, 120GB)

My next SSD will probably be a SATA Express model.

I hope the next generation of notebooks have SATA Express and USB 3.1.

 

Thanks for the replies, you can almost always trust in one of the two of you replying here Thanks!

Yeah I think a reformat is in place, it's been about a year or so since the last time, I just gotta get a W7 copy. (Should I go over to W8, any point in that?)

How do I give it unalocated space, or actually how do I install it at all? There are prob some good guides online, even specific to the gt780? If I remove my primary HDD (the one with w7), and put in a SSD, I then put in a Win-cd and "all is good"? I can leave the second HDD untouched and access everything afterwards?

Interesting about the "black outs", as I connect to some network stations on start-up (which I can't connect to without a VPN). Maybe removing them will fix that.

Do my RAM sticks have to be same model? Same size? Can I have one 4gb and one 8 gb? Or should they be 4+4/8+8/6+6? I see we have 4 slots, if I have 2x4 already, can I put in 1 8gb and be good, or should I put in 2x4 more, so I have 4x4? Is 4x4 better than 2x8? Does it have to be in pair? Can I have 3x4? There's a ton of different RAM sticks out there, how do I know what's the best (and cheapest)? Oh so many questions.

Right now I have installed a few games, but I also have about 290gb of games on my C drive, as my D drive is full. And I still have 238gb left of 698 (but it's a 750gb HDD). Does that mean I have used 698-530= 168gb OR 750-530= 220gb, incl Windows? If it's the latter, 256 might not be enough for me, if it's the former then I think I'm good.

 

To get a proper W7 iso to install, legal and free, refer to this post for good clean installation steps by Whatsthepoint. its all in there just follow it to the letter.

i did my reinstall like that and no problems whatsoever.

As for disc space, do you really need all those games all the time ? I'd do some spring cleaning and keep just the ones that i actually play. you could move them to some external usb drive, now that you'll have a spare hdd maybe? i saved my steam backups like that, and it saves me from having to redownload them when i feel like playing them. which is almost never.

it came with 2x500 hdd's in raid when i bought it now i have 2x256 ssd in here (no raid)
and one of my 500gb HDDs is now in a caddy and serves as a backup to my SSD drives. i simply removed the blueray and bought an HDD caddy on ebay to put in there. best 10$ i put on this thing. lol

1 ssd is for os and work/docs. The other is for games. You don't have to have 2 but i had already bought 1 ssd last year because i wanted to upgrade my Crucial m4 to a Vertex 4 for more speed. Then earlier this year i bought a samsung 840 pro to test their claim and i decided to keep it, best 230$ i spent. its cool to run with both SSDs now one 500gb hdd i use as a backup for these 2 SSDs and the other as a spare usb drive for whatever.

Never can be too carefull with computers especially if you work on your laptop. so back that sh*t up everyday ! thats why i opted for a hdd caddy. i wouldnt have to always plug the usb in everyday. i also have a nas that i sync my backups to for redundancy but that's just me, my work files are too important to loose.

anyway, give it a try and let us know how it went.

 

Do you know if there is a bios that allows to fully control cpu tdp ?
Mine already gives full access to ram, but can't touch anything but bclk in xtu

 

I'm working on a Windows 8.1 post with installation instructions similar to my Windows 7 post #4973 in this thread fpr the GT78x series.

It should be up soon?

My Window 7 x64 installation guide.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

 

BIOS update tool and unlocked bios, what is that? Do I need that? I've read a bit about it and got scared of updating bios cause I read everywhere that I might my comp up forever with it.. Also, any advantages/disadvantages with Ultimate/Professional/Home Premium/Basic? Let's say I have a key for all, which should I take OR if I can get only one key, which one should I get?

 

the bios update tool is for the firmware of your computer.

it has nothing to do with windows keys.

best to check the bios version before going any further and posting it here, see if the gurus advise you to update it.

 

OK Guys, I've been playing BF4 and for some reason I'm getting CPU spikes which brings the FPS of my 770M from around 70-90 to 30+ for a few seconds, the it goes back up. Everything on low by the way... So I'm not sure if changing my CPU will work but I've been looking at the i7-2860QM, which has basically the same specs as the i7-2920XM but will use less wattage (45w vs 55w) to run.

Questions:
1. I currently have a 2670QM. Is the upgrade to 2860QM worth it in your opinion? In other words, will it make much of a difference with my CPU spikes?
2. Will the 2860QM require a BIOS update? Currently running E1761IMS.10E - Build 10/19/2011. The latest BIOS found on MSI's support site only says it adds support for the GT783. http://www.msi.com/product/nb/GT780DX-GT780DXR-.html#?div=BIOS
3. If anyone has upgraded to the 770M and tried running BF4, are you getting CPU spikes and dropped FPS in the 30+ range?

Thanks guys...

God bless,

wreelsw

 

No help from anyone?

 

I can't be on all the time

Is your CPU temp ok? If it throttles it would cause the symptoms you are seeing.

 

Try unparking CPU cores

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20v3lZuUi1s

Click show more in the YouTube 1st post.

Unpark_CPU_App:
http://www.coderbag.com/Uploads/Unpark-CPU-App.zip

 

lol Thanks Meaker... Yeah, I did check my temps earlier today they were getting up to 98c so I cleaned of the chip and put new thermal paste on it. So now, it gets to about 65c+ at full BF4 load. Still getting the CPU spikes and dropped frames in game.

 

Thanks WhatsThePoint. yeah I had already unparked the two cores that were parked. That seems to only benefit with Win7 users. I'm running Win 8.1 but I did it anyway and no difference.

 

In Windows 8.1 are you experiencing any cursor freeze ups or graphics driver crashes?

I'm using NVIDIA driver 331.65 and Realtek HD Audio 2.72 build 7071

I think the only reason we have Windows 8 and now 8.1 from M$ is the Store.

IMO,if you don't need the store then you don't need Windows 8.

Windows 8.1 has no WEI to run so you should run the "WinSAT diskformal" command as Administrator to optimize especially if you have an SSD.

Then Control Panel>Admin Tools>Optimize Drives

From there you can manually TRIM or schedule optimization.

Also run "bcdedit /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy" command as Admin to get back the f8 Safe Mode option.

 

Thanks for the tips. I was wondering where that safe mode went. lol I ran the optimization and the safe mode command.

Now... any answers on my original CPU upgrade questions?

 

Upgrading an old notebook is not something I would do but as with all money spent it's a personal choice.

An aging motherboard is my main concern and no warranty left on it.

I'd look at selling what you have and put the money together with what you were thinking of spending on upgrades and get a new notebook with a new warranty and hardware to run your software.

On my SSDs I also turn off hibernation to gain back 13GB of storage space with admin command "powercfg -h off"

 

I guess I was asking if the performance difference is worth it and would it make a difference in BF4.

 

Gaming is usually mostly about the graphics card ability,so yes,I believe you would get a big boost if the GTX570M is swapped out for a 770M

Online gaming adds in other factors related to your home networking.

I haven't installed BF4 yet.

I've been trying to get a handle on the cheap but buggy Takedown Red Sabre single player.

 

lol... Dude, I already have the GTX 770M installed. I was asking about the CPU but ok, I' guess I'll just do some more research on the I7-2860QM and make my decision. thanks anyway...

 

I would like to try out setfsb and i need pll (clock generator) name. Where/how can I find it.

 

I played BF3 and I never had that problem with 2670. Did you try using throttlestop yet.
Anyway I7 2860QM is a good choice if you need more CPU power.

 

Hi. I have the gtx770m, i7-2630qm, 12GB ram, samsung 840 evo 256gb. GPU Overclocked to core +135 Mhz Memory +300 and BF4 runs great. 1920x1080 everything ultra 4AA on 64 player map never below 30 averaging 35-50 sometimes goes up to 60 ish

Im using throtlestop for cpu and msi afterburner for gpu.

With turbo cooling on MAX CPU temp 75
MAX GPU temp 70
Paste Arctic MX-4

Playing with headphones so dont hear the fan

 

Thanks for the feedback Edvis22. That helps me know what to expect. I'm starting to think my cpu isn't the issue. If you're getting 35-50 on ultra and 1920x1080 then I'm probably having a driver/game issue with the CPU spikes. I'll wait to see what happens with the next patch and drivers that are released. I'm using Throttlestop as well, set to performance. I'm not really sure how to boost anything in that software, other than the presets. Not even sure if I'm doing it right. lol

Thanks again and God bless...

 

I'm still thinking a background process is acting up.

 

Microsoft Admits Windows 8.1 Update May Bork Your Mouse, Promises a Fix

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...ading-to/85c28c06-b13c-43be-8282-88528c42e400

Microsoft Admits Windows 8.1 Update May Bork Your Mouse, Promises a Fix - HotHardware

 

Fresh build of Win 8.1. Was having the problem before the fresh build. Nothing that I'm aware is running in the background.

 

Did a TS Bench in Throttlestop for 1024M on my i7-2670QM and the turbo boost only goes up to 2.8 GHZ. Is there a reason it wouldn't go to the 3.1 GHZ that the chip is designed to turbo boost to?

http://valid.canardpc.com/x0cltx

 

So I have the possibility to get one of these two (have legal keys for them):

Windows 7 Professional
Windows 7 with Service Pack 1 Debug/Checked Build

Not really sure what the last one is, but should I just go for Professional? And if I d/l it from my own source, can I still follow WhatsThePoint's guide on a clean install?

 

You are experiencing the normal behavior of turbo, but I thought ThrottleStop could help to enable all cores to reach the max turbo.
Did you adjust the turbo ratio manually?

 

Windows 7 Professional is a valid edition, but have not heard about debug/checked build however I found the information below of their differences.
Whats the difference? Windows 7 SP1 vs. Windows 7 SP1 - Microsoft Community

 

Why would it only turbo to 2.8 ghz when it's supposed to turbo to 3.1 ghz?

Also, I have no idea how to enable all cores to max turbo in ThrottleStop.

 

Intel designed the 2670QM to use the 31 multiplier only when a single core in the CPU is active. If all 4 cores are active during the TS Bench test, the maximum multiplier decreases.

Click on the TRL button in ThrottleStop and that should show you the maximum multiplier your CPU is capable of when 4 cores are active. The 28 multiplier sounds about right when 4 cores are active.

This limitation is hard coded into your CPU. No software can change this.

Some of the non-Xtreme CPUs support a feature called limited overclocking where you can raise the turbo multiplier up to 4 notches. Both the chipset and CPU have to support this feature. Unfortunately, I don't think the 2670QM supports this limited overclocking feature.

 

Wow, this is an honor. Thanks unclewebb. If I were to upgrade my cpu with the 2860QM, would the 2.8 ghz turbo boost cap still be in place when all cores are working?

 

According to this Intel Core i7-2860QM Mobile processor - AV8062701065200 i7-2860qm will boost to 3.4Ghz on all 4 cores

 

OK, so that I'm not misunderstanding how it works. Is that like getting another 600 MHz per core; essentially another 2.4 GHz of processing power over the 2670QM?

Thanks Edvis22!

 

2670QM = 31/30/29/29
2860QM = 36/35/34/34

There is always a bit of a jump between the lowest quad and the next up in terms of frequency, the 2860qm is another step above that so yeah 500mhz of difference or 17.2%

 

Is anyone aware of a tool that will tell me if the 2670qm is botttlenecking my GTX 770M while playing BF4? I suspect that it is but I want to be 100% sure before I plunk down cash for the 2860QM.

 

It's going to help but not sure how much boost you are going to get though.
Clock Speed 2.2 GHz
Max Turbo Frequency 3.1 GHz
Intel® Smart Cache 6 MB
vs
Clock Speed 2.5 GHz
Max Turbo Frequency 3.6 GHz
Intel® Smart Cache 8 MB

 

You can use task manager to look at your CPU load and GPU-Z to monitor your GPU load.

 

Have you guys been experiencing this problem that I am randomly having?

"Display driver NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 331.65 stopped responding and has successfully recovered."

Could this be software or hardware issue?

Kindly advice me what I should do, I hope it isn't hardware, this rig of mine is 2 years old and I'm planning to go with this for another 2 more years =(

 

It could be the graphics chip, but are you sure it's random?

 

I got the NVIDIA driver crash every day on my Windows 8.1 installation using every driver version released for 8.1 including v331.65

On my Windows 7 x64 HP installation the last stable driver without crashes is v314.22

What you can try is to uninstall the all the NVIDIA entries that appear in >Control Panel>Programs and Features.Then look in C: drive that the NVIDIA folder is gone.Next run the registry cleaner that's in CCleaner and get rid of NVIDIA entries...Reboot.

Now do a CUSTOM installation of 331.65 and only install the driver part and check the clean install box.Don't install the PhysX or any of the other options.

This has worked for a lot of people.

My NIDIA driver doesn't crash if I do the above installation of the graphics driver only


For anyone interested there's a new Official Realtek HD Audio driver version R2.73 build 7083
Realtek

 

Ya, it's pretty random.. Once it happened with Mozilla and I know that was Mozilla's fault, but still once in a while I face freeze issues from doing other things like playing games or watching movies or even doing documentation work.

Pretty odd if you ask me 0_o

I see, I shall try this out first and see if the issue is solved, I guess it will take me weeks of testing to clarify that the problem is gone.

Don't install PhysX at all? Wouldn't that reduce a lot of graphical effects in games?

Aside from this, is the GPU temp of 52 celcius normal at idle? I use rainmeter & objectdock plus, would that temperature be normal?

It's Malaysia, it's kinda hot but just curious =x

 

Hey again. I think I'm actually gonna go for the 500gb 840 EVO, as I've read a bit about the EVO vs PRO now and the amount of boosts you get on PRO are relatively insignificant to me as I'm a pretty casual user. Most my time is spent browsing, watching movies/tv shows and the casual gaming here and there. And the price increase in the PRO just doesn't justify that for me.


The sundisk is not available here, but that thing WTP posted about sundisk also made a pretty good case for the 840, so I think it will be a good decision. It seems to be the cheapest as well (there is something called A-Data XPG SX900 - 512GB available, but that's like $7 cheaper than the 840, and the 840 seems to generally be loved).

So I have the oportunity to buy 840 Basic and 840 laptop kit. The LK is about $12 more expensive, but doesn't really seem to have anything special, there's some cd in there and some usb-connector thing as well. I can probably just google this, but in case you know anything about it which should I go for?

Also when doing the installation:

I just shut down my comp, take out my current "C:" disk, put in the SSD, then start it up with a windows CD/USB plugged in, and everything should work?

Thanks!

 

cool, go with your budget eh

the ssd kit is to clone your current windows installation to the ssd, then you stick it in the laptop, or viceversa. i'd just go with a fresh new install myself.

btw, you might find the Sandisk drives easier if you typed Sandisk instead of sundisk.

 

I've heard it both ways...



Potato potato

They don't have either available!