--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

How common is it for video cards to get burned out in this laptop?

I originally purchased mine in July 2011, my video card shorted in June this year, which instantly killed the laptop, and would turn off the charger if the charger was plugged into it. I sent it in for repair (which took over a month), and yesterday the exact same thing happened. Of course the laptop is now out of warranty (even though it was just fixed for this same problem a few months ago).

I hardly used the laptop at all since the last failure, and when it failed this time I was coding in Visual Studio with only a couple of other programs open (Chrome and Photoshop) nothing hardware intensive at all.

I'm a little annoyed that this failed again so soon after being "fixed' by MSI, and I'm looking for opinions on what I should do. I submitted another ticket to MSI support, but haven't heard back yet. I assume I'd be able to purchase a video card, but would it even be worth it considering the last one only lasted 4 months of light use? This whole experience has really soured me to the MSI name, and my next laptop definitely won't be this brand...

 

It's not a normal occurrence, I wonder if there is maybe a fault in your motherboard, which could be an argument against replacing the GPU.

Where do you live? US? UK?

 

So, reinstalled both, with restart after each uninstall, reinstall, and the P1 button is still turning off after 3 seconds. Anyone go any other idea?

Also got a problem with the touch pad driver: get a message about bad driver each time i turn my laptop on... i never changed anyhting with it, and i can't find the driver on the MSI page (there's only the W8 version, i need the W7 64bit version) :x

Any ideas? :/

 

Did you tried setting NVIDIA OC program to run ALLWAYS as administrator? I had similar problem on Windows 8.1 instalation and it helped for me.

As for touchpad problem I suggest you to download newest driver from manufacter site which i think could be Synaptics.

Cheers!

 

That's an interesting solution to that issue, cheers for sharing and I will keep that in mind.

 

Seems to work... thanks mate.

 

Hi guys, I have been getting BSOD like "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT", most of the times or "PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGE_AREA" and a bunch of other craps. And my chrome's tab would go bad sometimes, especially youtube or google docs.
Does anyone know a possible fix?

 

That's a memory related issue, either a program is making invalid memory writes or you need to check the memory itself.

 

Thank you for the answer I tried re installed my window, but I still get bsod. I guess someone this wrong with the RAM then (I did a complete wipe-out). Do you think buying a new RAM would help?

 

start by testing your ram with memtest86+

you'll need a usb flash drive and
Download - Auto-installer for USB Key (Win 9x/2k/xp/7) *NEW!*

it will ask if you want to format it, meaning wipe it clean, so copy your files off it first if you do that.

then reboot with the key in your usb port, at the boot screen press F11 and choose the key to boot from. it will start memtest. Let it run for a few hours until the top line says 100%

good luck and let us know how you did

 

i'm thinking of ordering up intel 802.11AC wifi card for my laptop, this killer 1103 can barely do 10MB/s through 1 floor in the 5ghz band.

Does anyone have the new intel 802.11AC wifi card in their laptop and using a netgear router like the R6250 or R6300 ?

Do they work well together or is there some incompat problems ?

and are drivers avail yet for win 7 ?

any info would be appreciated

 

The new Intel 16.6.0.8 driver really helped get better performance from the AC-7260 paired with my R6300.

From about 20ft away and through 2 cement walls I show almost a steady 520Mbps connection speed and 5 green bars in Windows WiFi Status Monitor.

If I move to a line of sight position about 8 feet from the router I'm at 866.7Mbps.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/networking-wireless/716325-intel-7260-a-21.html#post9441244

http://forum.notebookreview.com/networking-wireless/716325-intel-7260-a-21.html#post9426534

 

thanks, so through 2 cement walls you can transfer big files at 520mbps (65MB/s) you say ?


that's pretty amazing

 

Transferring large ISO files from the notebook to a desktop pc wirelessly got between 37MB/s and 42B/s with the AC-7260.

Transferring from the notebook to a 16GB SanDisk Extreme USB 3.0 flash drive attached to one of the R6300 router's USB 2.0 ports was only able to get a max of 7.8MB/s

I tried to test using a faster 64GB SanDisk Extreme USB 3.0 flash drive but the router refused to recognize it.

When I had the Killer 1103 with 3rd antenna installed the best I got was 25MB/s from the notebook to the desktop.

 

ah, thanks so much for the info. Your speeds look better than my paltry 10-15MB/s (8ft direct sight) on this killer-N and 5Mb/s 1 floor up. And i'm assuming you're not having dropouts on a regular basis or problems of the kind.

Do you have the 7260HMW ?

I did a little research for fun, during the famous launch in April 2013 there were 3 variants: 7260HMW, 7260HMWDTX1 and 7260NGW.

And the newest variant according to wikidev is : Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 (7260SDW)
FCC approved on Nov. 7th 2013

But this quote from wikidev "Most useful FCC documents are under short-term confidentiality until 05/06/2014" leaves me to think we won't see a refresh until 2014-Q3, or late Q2 at best (next June).

i think i'll take the plunge with the same card you have and hope for the best
So i guess all i need is your exact model, there are so many variants.

Btw, i too have tested my Netgear R6250 with usb 3.0 port via wired and barely got faster than 25MB/s with 4 different usb drives (flash and hdd caddies). The N-gineers told me the chip inside is just not powerful enough to go at true usb 3.0 speeds.

But according to several reviewers it leads the pack in terms of usb speeds or that generation. i would just prefer netgear would just label it a true usb 2.0 port with usb 3.0 compatibility. but instead they labeled it usb 3.0

Why they advertise it as usb 3 then, is anyone's guess. But if i knew there was a class action suit against Netgear for false advertising, not that i have anything against Netgear, but a court settlement could teach their marketing department not to play dirty games like that.

lol

 

there's this one that's tempting, 7260.HMWANWB | | 7260HMW | Intel 7260HMW IEEE 802.11ac PCI Express Bluetooth 4.0 at ComputerValley.ca

SKU: 7260.HMWANWB
Product Model: 7260HMW
Manufactured by: Intel Corporation
Availability: More than 10 available.
Condition: Genuine and factory sealed in box.
Warranty: Valid for Canada only.

and at only 25$


oh and look at that, AC1900 routers have begun to roll out
AC1900 First Look: NETGEAR R7000 & ASUS RT-AC68U - SmallNetBuilder

onward and upward eh ?

 

As always with tech, as always.

 

Did anyone bought a GTX770M with green pcb like this one.

I don't know wich one I need to buy, GTX770M with blue pcb or the green one.

With blue pcb.

~70EUR diff.

 

Installed NVIDIA Driver version 331.93 BETA on my GT780DX with GTX570M and so far no Kernel crashes.

I'm on Windows 8.1 and every previous driver caused a freeze up and Nvidia driver kernel crash.

Sometimes it recovered within a few seconds while other crashes required a reboot.

I'll try it on Windows 7 next.

Other Drivers Installed.
Realtek HD Audio build 7083
Realtek Card Reader 6.2.9200.39052
Realtek Lan 8.21.0909.2013
Intel Wireless 16.6.0.08
Intel Bluetooth 3.1.1309.390
NEC/Renesas USB 3.0 2.1.39.0
Synaptics Touchpad 17.0.18.8
MEI 9.5.10.1538

 

Well good luck, those annoying driver issues can be the worst sometimes, if the graphics drivers influence the problem then they are likely the cause.

 

Hi guys,

Bit of an odd problem.
I have a GT780DX-406US with the backlit keyboard and am running Windows 7 64bit.

For some reason, a few days ago the keyboard LEDs decided that they weren't going to be controlled by the KLM any more, that is to say, they stay either one of two ways:
upon reboot, they turn to their default colour scheme (light orange, dark purple and light purple for me, not sure if it's the same for all) but if I press the soft touch button they turn to white and stay white.
The KLM shows my other colours, e.g. blue, red, etc but the colours don't change on the keyboard at all.
I didn't install any updates before the problem started.
I have tried: reinstalling the .NET Frameworks 4.0 and 4.5, reflashing the EC, reinstalling the KLM, resetting the EC, reinstalling the S-bar, removing the keyboard driver (which reinstalls itself upon restart), removing and replacing the keyboard.

I have literally no idea what the problem is. I know that all the LEDs work because they display colours across the keyboard upon restart after an EC reset, they also change from coloured to white full->white gaming-> off upon pressing the soft touch button. If anyone has had this problem or has any clue what could be causing it, I'd be extremely grateful.

Thanks.

 

I'm using this KLM version on my GT780DX

MSI Global – Download Center

When I run into issues I can't easily find a cure for I usually opt for a clean Windows installation.

In the long run it saves a lot of time and aggravation

 

A clean installation would probably fix it, but with both HDDs having less than 20GB free, it's unfortunately not an option for me :/

 

black friday weekend and cybermonday are a good time to get an SSD for cheaper than normal.

@deadhound17 : i'd say now would be a good time as any.

 

Those drives must be really slow.

Eventually you're going to have to do something to fix your issue(s) and get better organized using available storage space.

Internally I have 3 SSDs(no ODD) with 3 different OS and a very large external USB hard drive that handles most of my storage collection.

I also have 3 x 64GB SanDisk Extreme USB 3.0 flash drives and several smaller flash drives.

Your primary boot drive should be fast and not go over 80% full.The less on it the better and running processes should be limited to what needs to be running.

Move things to a storage drive if it's not being used regularly.

Delete what's not being used especially programs and apps that can be downloaded again from the source if needed.

Installed games should be limited to one or two that you're playing th most.

 

You could invest in an external drive to help shift off some data

 

i just received my 7260ac+bt today and installed it with intel proset 16.6.0.8 and bt drivers.

i get a solid connection of 866.7Mbps at 8 feet away on 5ghz and 300Mbps on 2.4ghz

The upload 8 feet away from router is between 30MB/s and 31 and downloads between 49MB/s and 52MB/s on 5ghz. haven't tested at 2.4ghz.

i'd say its a very nice improvement of 3 times the N speeds

 

Latest Intel Bluetooth driver/software v3.1.1311.400

Station-Drivers - Intel PROSet/Wireless Software for Bluetooth® Technology Version 3.1.1311.0402

 

Hello,

New owner, got this sweet rig off craigslist for $600! With a wireless mouse(MX510) too. Its in perfect condition, windows 7, no issues, no dust anywhere(i opened it up). I just happen to be in the market for a $600 laptop and saw this and was amazed it wasn't stolen or a POS. Just a nice guy trying to give someone a good x-mas deal, lol i brought a thumb drive with prime95 and furmark to test it... I ran them a couple minutes each, i could tell by the guy this thing was taken care of, and figured it was good enough. I've never seen a 2 year old laptop this clean, yes he bought it brand new, had the receipt, for 1800 2 years ago.

I've played BF3 on ultra( anisotropic 16x, no ambient occlusion or Anti-Aliasing both) at 1080p @45-55 FPS for 3 hours straight with no issues. The GF (Who i bought it for...not me... lol.. i may use it here and there ) played the Sims 3 maxed out v-sync 60fps for 8 hours, tabbing in and out while checking facebook and stuff with no issues. I overclocked the GPU @700/1400/1700 and the GPU and CPU only got to 80C both sessions and thats in my warm living room thats @72F. The MSI afterburner works perfectly with the turbo button. I set the overclock with the P1 Turbo button on, and then when i turn it off it goes back down to 500/1200/1500.

Im in love, its my first gaming laptop, been a desktop user for my whole life(25) so im pretty excited to learn i can upgrade the GPU. What GPU can go in this, does the 680m fit? Going to be getting a SSD here after the holidays, was going to look and see if there was any better ram to put in it?? So far all i could find was the GPU was upgradeable to a 580m but all those threads were before the 600 series came out. I may redo the thermal paste when i toss the SSD but other than that this thing should be great for quite some time. Its not my main gaming rig but its a very nice laptop that will hold its weight for a few years i suppose.

Can you change what program opens up when you press the media pro button?? I hate windows media player... Other then that i cant find anything i don't like about this laptop. Its actually better than my current desktop, Overclocked E8400 @4.2 4g ddr2 gtx560ti oc edition. So now i can sell off the parts of this build and build a new setup with a i7 and a gtx770.

Any other thoughts or tips you guys have?

 

@ l_scheres

Did you fail to mention which model you bought?

GT780 w/GTX560M,GT780DX w/GTX570M or GT783 w/GTX580M????

 

Darn, i thought i put it but i guess i forgot in all my excitement. gt780dxr-095us 2630QM GTX570M

 

Anyone know what thickness the thermal pads are? I need them but didn't realize there were so many different thicknesses. Thanks.

 

1mm is mostly used out there and it's usually very enough.

 

Thank you sir, I appreciate the response.

 

0.5mm is used for the best performance.

 

You're welcome.
Regarding the thermal pad used in MSI systems, it is 1mm throughout all heatsinks whether if it's CPU or GPU, see attached image.
Its only purpose is to provide heat transfer but nothing else, therefore such thickness is reasonable for such application.

 

0.5mm is the size I recommend

 

Which one do you use?

 

This is what I have now but have used 3M and Blue Thermal

Phobya RAM Thermal Pad - Ultra 5W/mk - 120mm x 20mm x 0.5mm (19052) - FrozenCPU.com

 

Overall Heat Transfer Coefficient

To help you guys understand why the thickness is really important. It's also the cooling of the core that you care about the most.

 

Liquid thermal pad are even better:



It provide better contact to the heatsink.

On the Haswell GT70 / GT60, completely remove the thermal pad on the heatsink bridge and put IC Diamond instead cools much better without the thermal pad.

 

It depends on the distances involved but as stated you are not looking for improved thermal performance for the vrms. It's the core which is important.

 

WhatsThePoint: i'm wondering which of these firmware (if any) i need to install on my laptop ?
Station-Drivers - Station-Drivers

 

I have done a few upgrades to my lappy,my next one is thr GPU,seems the easiets option is the gtx 770m.What will I need,just thr card and new heatsink?Trying to follow this thread,but very difficult.

Thanks for reading

 

hmmmm so I was never able to find any thermal pads/tape locally I appreciate all the responses and information you guys shared. WTP, will that link you posted cover the amount I'll need for all the pad location or should I get a few? I honestly think w/e size was used was WAY to thick because the tape literally was crushed and spread apart. I had it apart and was not able to get any, so I kinda pushed it all back together and carefully put the heatsinks back in to ensure contact. How much difference temp wise do these make?

I'm getting in the low 80C (was in the 90's on the processor prior to repaste a few days ago) on a couple of games on VGA and Processor which I'd say a month ago the same games would only hit 76c tops on the GFX and I honestly never recall seeing my processor go past 69c while playing gfx heavy games like Tomb Raider or Bioshock Infinite. I did re-paste and it honestly dropped my numbers down atleast 4-6c on both the VGA and Proc. but its still higher then It was and where I feel safe playing continuously.

 

what paste are you using ?

there not all the same, some have better thermal values than others.

 

my fault, arctic silver 5. I meant to put that to. I mean, I had put fresh paste about 8 months ago right after I got my comp back from MSI cuz the temps were high and it fixed it. I hadn't gone above 75c on gfx and I don't recall ever seeing anything past 69c or so on processor. A couple of days ago, processor hit 91c so I figured it won't hurt but the pads are pretty much shot. So I figured that is probably my issue. I mean, I game A LOT I think one time I played Skyrim for 16hrs straight so that will give you an idea lol.

 

its a good compound, i wonder if you might have put too little or too much 8months ago.

and yeah if your pads are shot, that's not good. you need better pads if they got fried in 8months

Also room temp also affects the effectiveness of air cooled computers. might want to bring the thermostat down a couple degrees and see if it helps.

 

well, in general my room temp when I was getting the lower temps avgd about 73F and since its winter Im getting in low 60's and high 50s as my room temp. Thats why when I saw 91c I was like "WTH?" as for the paste, I'm pretty sure I did it just right because I did get a decrease of about 4-6C on both the GPU and CPU, GPU temps arent getting passed 80c which its never constant IF it does hit that. The CPU is getting to around 83-85C sometimes but it seems to stay around 81C when gaming which is to high. I was considering either the pads WTP posted up a few posts or these but I don't wanna spend the money if its overkill.

Fujipoly Extreme System Builder Thermal Pad - 1/4 Sheet - 150 x 100 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 11.0 W/mK - FrozenCPU.com

 

hmm what you say sounds right, the temps are too high on the cpu side.

a repaste on the cpu should definitely be done, it's not normal that it burns out in under 8 months.

They say practice makes perfect, keep trying til you get it just right