--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

That's exactly what I was about to suggest

I disabled that bios setting on day one.

 

Many thanks, I disabled SpeedStep. Now Turbo Boost is off and I don't get 2.6 ghz like before, but, when I play games, performance won't drop because of Energy saver.

 

Hi again, I have another problem with my new gtx770m. It works well in W8 x86 with modified drivers.

Some time ago I installed W8 x64 in another partition to take advantege of the 6GBRAM. But There is no driver in laptopvideo2go that works with it. It always says NVDIA installer failed after 30 secs of installation. In device maganer I have Microsoft Basic Display Adapter. I have tried many W8 X64 drivers and I have replaced the inf. I have tried clean installation and nothing.

What driver did you use for GTX770m Win8 x64 bits? How did you do it?

 

OK, I found the solution. I had o disable driver signature enforcement. I know that this was commented before. But I didn´t know that I had to install the driver before shutting down the computer after i disabled driver signature enforcement. I had disabled it, but it was yesterday, so i had to disable it again and install the driver before shutting down.

 

gacu13 there has been similar complaints about IC Diamond Karat. Luckily I searched the term " IC Diamond Karat problems" before deciding on which thermal paste to buy and the search result came up with this: Avoid IC DIAMOND thermal paste!

Though you cannot trust everything written on the net just because someone says avoid xyz product as it may be the user's own fault etc. but you can draw your own conclusion reading and comparing different reports and decide to whether take the risk or not.

It always helps if you search for a products problems on net if you're buying anything that probably has user feedback registered on the internet.

Basically IC Diamond Karat gives best temp results but eats into (so to speak) your heatsink and your exposed chip surface. You will notice that when you decide to remove the heatsink for any reason.

I went with tuniq tx-4 eventually.

 

So little TC is actually needed when properly applied I can't see any possibility of damage.

I'll take a bit of staining any day of the week to get the best heat transfer.

If it yields very good heat transfer results....use it and don't worry about a bit of staining.

I've had ICD 24K on my CPU for almost a year with very good results.I didn't notice any staining or abrasions the last time I repasted.

My graphics card was recently replace by MSI so I'll keep their TC for the 3 months that it's under warranty.

BTW,I've tried Tuniq TX 2,TX-3 and TX-4 some time ago with TX-3 being the hands down best of the 3 closely followed by TX-2.My results were not as good with the newest TX-4

I have very good results using MX-4,AS5 and ICD 24K.

Naturally,your mileage may vary

 

You guys with the Sentelic Touch Pad head over to station-drivers.

There's a new driver posted,version 9.4.5.8 for the Finger Sensing Pad.

Station-Drivers - News

 

Hi everybody

Im sorry if it is very repeated right here, I tried to search a bit but it is quite a big thread.

I have a 780DXR since 2,5 years. Im upgrading right now with a ssd, and decided to go with win8 also. But Im having lots of problems when trying to install, and these problems are always very strange and different each time. Is there some kind of incompatibility with anything?

BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. E1761IMS V3.0B, 15/08/2011

Now, in the meanwhile Im back at win7. What is the utility to give back the control for brightness and volume to the FN cap?

Thank you

 

@ botijero,welcome to the forum.

Don't bother with Windows 8,install Windows 8.1

I've been running Window 8.1 x64 Pro installed on a 240GB SanDisk Extreme SSD since the RTM was available at the end of August 2013.

Your bios is an old version and should be updated to 30H
http://www.msi.com/product/nb/GT780DXGT780DXR.html

I use bios version 30H set to AHCI since I don't have a RAID array.

Bios 30H by default is set to RAID so if you don't have raid it needs to be set to AHCI

If you are moving from 2 HDDs in a raid0 array to a non raid system the raid disks should be made to non member disks in the Intel raid utility to avoid problems.Once the RAID array is broken you can no longer use it.The disks can each be used for different operating systems or storage

All the drives except the new SSD should be removed before beginning a clean Windows installation

I start clean installs by resetting the bios to it's defaults and then change to the settings I want>boot order,time/date and AHCI or RAID mode

I have the Windows 8.1 installation files unpacked onto a USB 3.0 flash drive using Microsoft USB/DVD Tool and a "good" Windows 8.1 ISO image file

In a few days a major update to Windows 8.1 will be released by Microsoft to the general public

PM me if you need more help once you have "at least 5 posts"


EDIT:to search this thread go to post #1 and click on SEARCH THIS THREAD

 

Thankyou Whatsthepoint for the fast answer.

I was trying with 8.1 versions and had the AHCPI done.

My doubt is if I can really discard a BIOS problem. It feared me a bit to flash the BIOS cause I didnt think that was the problem

The SSD is Crucial m500, 240Gb

Tried in both sata ports

With 4 or 5 different isos, most of them 8.1 and one was win8 (pro, core, enterprise and even one custom, x64 and x86...)

Tryed to install that win8.1 in other laptop with this SSD and worked fine

SSD works fine with win7 in MSI

M+ test of RAM and several HD tests



Any ideas would be appreciated

 

I've done all my bios flashing using the MSIHQ Tool

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=108079.0

In the bios Main Menu:
EC Version 1761EMS1 v4.19
EC Build 11/22/2011

Correct Time and date Settings

Speed Stepping Off

Boot Order - Make sure the Realtek PX is last or disabled

 

Hi guys,

having a bit of trouble with my GT780DXR atm.

I was playing a bit of DotA2 yesterday when it randomly turned off about 5 minutes in. My immediate thoughts were the motherboard playing up but I'm not entirely sure. I took it apart, reapplied thermal paste and put it back together, which seemed to work for about 10 minutes until it happened again. I know it isn't completely dead as it boots for about 1/4 of a second before switching off again. The hard drives are fine, gpu is fine, etc. Any ideas what the problem is? I'm out of warrantly and haven't the funds to get a new one, so if it is possibly the motherboard I could always try and replace that myself.

Thanks.

 

Figuring out whether an issue is hardware or software related is a starting place.

Have you installed any new software before the issue appeared or did any registry cleaning?

Does it boot into and run in safe mode?

Have you tried going back a previous restore point?

Have you run sfc /scannow as administrator to check file system errors?

If you have a spare SSD or hard drive you can take your raid disks out of the notebook and do a clean Windows install on the spare drive.

If the clean install on the spare disk works OK the issue is probably software or with the raid0 array.

If the clean install has the same issue then it is probably hardware.

Is your ac power adapter still the original?A bad adapter is a known cause of the issue you're having.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

I only ran sfc /scannow after the issue started happening, it managed to complete without dying, repaired a few things and then the laptop did indeed randomly power down again.

Based on what you've said, I think that the current issue is most likely hardware orientated as it won't boot for more than 1/4 of a second with or without a HDD inside.

The power brick is indeed the original, perhaps the laptop is auto-shutting down during the first of its 2 power cycles; the one that checks if everything is ok?

The times that I have managed to log in everything has run fine up until I tried running something that was power intensive - a game of DotA. Would you say it could be that the power bring is faulty and not the motherboard?
I could actually afford to buy a new charger, a motherboard would be more of a pain both in cost and locating one.

Thanks again.

 

If you run the notebook on battery power does it crash?

Does the adapter charge the battery to 95%~100%?

Did you try running in Safe Mode?

 

I tried turning it on with just the battery in, safe story; keyboard lights up for 1/4 of a second then dies.

When I had it running it would charge the battery to 98% I believe.

I can't get to the boot screen so can't try safe mode unfortunately.

 

If you think it could be or is a bad adapter:

From MSI or MSI reseller like Gentech a new MSI 180W power adapter is about $85

There's cheaper Delta ADP 180HB B ac power adapters on Amazon and ebay

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...=MSI+180W+ac+power+adapter&_sacat=0&_from=R40

My GT780DX is 28 mos old and I recently had the motherboard and graphics card replaced through an AIG warranty I purchased when I bought my unit.

My power adapter is original and seems to work well but my battery is near the end even though it was only used once a month doing a run down to 10% and a recharge conditioning.It charges to 100% but only lasts about an hour.

 

I'm thinking it might be the motherboard after all, as it doesn't boot even with the fully charged battery.
I've read that the symtoms my laptop is showing seem to be a power problem, we know that. Is there anything else that could cause power problems besides the charger and the motherboard?
If there's no soldering involved I'm confident that I could replace the motherboard myself.

Do you have any idea where I could buy a new one? I've had a look online and can't seem to find reliable links.

 

Is it worth the out of pocket costs to fix or is the money better spent on a used working notebook or putting the money made selling it for parts together with what you would spend fixing and get a new model?

A new 1761 motherboard is not cheap and may not be easy to find.

Putting in a newer 1762 would require other parts to be changed also.

Someone else recently asked about a motherboard also.

See this linked thread
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi/746749-ms-17621-ms-17611-motherboard-compatibility.html

 

hi people its been 2 years already lol


anyways anyone know why my sbar is broken and touch panel are not working anymore ?

Tried to reinstall sbar and still having same issue

 

Which version did you download and where from?

 

i download from gentechpc last year

Release note:
********************************************************************************************
Version: 21.011.11023
Author: Peter
Release Date:2011/11/02
Support OS: Win 7 32bit&64bit

 

My battery will not charge as welll and i dont want waste $ on a notebook is out of warranty anymore.

 

What wear level is the battery at?

 

it stops at 0%

And notebook will just poweroff if no AC adapter is plugged in and switch on

Any hope fixing the sbar ?

 

I have no need for the SBar utility so I don't install it.

My GT780DX has the original battery(Nov,2011) that has only been used once a month to draw down to 10% remaining and then recharged.

The rest of the time I'm on ac power.

The MSI Battery Calibration utility has been run about every 6 months.

The battery charges to 98%~100% but only lasts less than an hour surfing the net compared to over 4 hour when the notebook was new.

I suggest to everyone that recently received a new notebook that mainly use ac power to remove the battery and store it.

My experience has been that the battery does deteriorate if it's left in the notebook.

I put the battery back in>it charged to 100%>after 54 minutes on battery power I got low battery warning(10% remaining)

 

Every discharge ages the battery; the deeper the the worse.

 

Has anybody bothered with upgrading their MSI GT780DX (I own the 406US) to Windows 8? Ever since I made the switch, it seems like the colors on the display are washed out or just feel different? Was this something MSI changed in the Windows 7-shipped environment? Any tips or suggestions?

 

You could change the digital vibrance controls in the nvidia control panel which is the likely cause.

 

Welcome to the forum.

I have Windows 8.1 .1 Pro x64,kernel 6.3.9600.17041, on 2 SSDs and Windows 7 x64 Ultimate on an SSD in a caddy in the optical drive bay on my GT780DX(406)

You can tweak your color in Control Panel/Color Management or apply a color profile created for the stock screen and GTX570M graphics card.

You can find an ICM profile to improve the image quality of the matte display for GT780/GT783 notebooks (Chi Mei N173HGE-L11/21) in post #1 or #3819 in this thread and apply it in Color Management

 

So basically the next time i buy a new notebook ... and i use ac power often

I need to remove battery ?










Hi i was wondering if a notebook itself came with only a 1TB HDD with the OS and softwares

is it possible to clone or anything to a mSATA SSD ? but how ?

 

Cloning to an mSATA SSD is the same as cloning to a hard drive or 2.5" SSD but I never recommend cloning.

A clean install of the OS is IMO always the best way to go with all the newest drivers,utilities and software(no bloatwear like as you would get restoring from backup partition).

Cloning transfers any and all present known or unseen issues to the new drive.

Give Ken at Gentech a call and he'll tell you if what you want is doable.

1TB hard drives are 5400 and 7200 flavors or are you interested in a 1TB Samsung 840 EVO mSATA SSD

In the 1TB class the Crucial M550 2.5" SSD looks good also.

I like the 480GB SanDisk Extreme II 2.5" SSD.

SSD Consistency Testing - 18 Drives Tested for Real-World Performance - Final Thoughts

SanDisk also ships the Extreme II with a nice 5 year warranty.

 

But how do you install a fresh OS from the built in OS ?

buy another windows key/cd ?

 

You don't need to buy a new key. msi provides many activations for our laptops. don't worry about it. And you can download an iso image of the real windows installation cd.

it's really best to follow WhatsThePoint's instructions in post # 4973 of this thread, here's the link
http://forum.notebookreview.com/msi...t780-gt783-owners-lounge-498.html#post8177509

Basically make a boot key from the files in the windows install iso or dvd , start with that.

scratch that lol, start with this: #1 rule in Windows reinstallation: Backup everything to a spare drive before proceeding with the install. (try Macrium Reflect or Accronis, etc)

Then make a boot key (4-8gigs) with the windows install iso and download all the drivers to the boot key in a single folder for easy installation after you're booted.

But if you don't have room left on the key for all of them, at least download network drivers, those will get you up and running to be able to do the rest of the driver downloads and windows updates.

it is not advisable to refresh windows 7 from inside windows or do an in-line upgrade from within windows to windows 8. You'll be adding problems to your windows.

Best to do like the pros and wipe the drive at the install screen then start fresh.

Windows 8 has a built in refresher but even so... i'd use the method above.

 

I did fresh install on my GT70 when I changed the HD to SSD. But yesterday I cloned my old Asus, Win7, with Easeus Free as Samsung migration software wouldn't do as my HD has some error (reported uncorrectable error, fixed with HDD Regenerator) that doesn't show in normal use in any way. Cloning done with success to an Samsung Evo.

 

Hello everyone!
I have tried to search for my particular issue but couldn't find much - I apologize in advance if an answer to this already is lying around here somewhere.
So.. basically, after almost 3 years I finally managed to spill some juice on my GT780DXR (dear god...)
The computer is all fine, surprisingly enough, except that the keys where the juice managed to squeeze in (CTRL, Fn, Alt and Space) are now really sticky because of the spill, and requires more "strength" to push down

And so my question: how to disassemble the keyboard for cleaning/washing? Yes, I have seen a few videos around, but they are for non-backlit keyboards. Knowing that, I instead thought of just taking off the affected keys, but when I realized doing so might mess up the lighting system of the keyboard.. no. And finally, if I do manage to get the keyboard out, how to properly clean considering the lights; or are the lights not part of the actual keyboard component itself? (meaning, when disassembled the lights aren't a part of the component)

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, and I thank you all in advance.

Anthony

 

Removing Keyboard:

 

Hello,

Maybe it would sound stupid but from my own experience you can easly wash your keyboard underwater. I mean you can sink it in bath or bowl filled with water even if you have backlit one. But first you need to remove all keys (take a photo before doing that) and then wash it and leave for about 3 days before reassembling, let it dry. It is also good idea to use hairdryer to heat it up once a day for about 20 mins. I have done such washing twice with my backlit keyboard and also with my old asus laptop and both are working perfectly, all diodes are still giving light with no issues. If you are not afraid give it a try.
Good luck and cheers!



Wysane z mojego Nexus 4 przy uyciu Tapatalka

 

I would not remove the keys for the MSI keyboard.

 

hi anyone know how much does my GT783 worth ?

Used 2 years , no warranty left and battery is dead.

 

But what if i buy a new msi notebook with 8.1 and not it is not windows 7 ?

Cant you install the drivers from the DVDs in the box ?

 

I'm not sure if WTP has made a win8.1 post like that one it's up to him maybe he will if you ask nicely

But the basics are there, you'd only need to download a win8.1 iso and the w8.1 drivers will usually be on the same page as the win7 ones.

You can of course use the built-in rescue partition, it's not a bad thing but it will need to update the drivers after its done.

 

Could you tell why?

Wysane z mojego Nexus 4 przy uyciu Tapatalka

 

They are not easy to remove and even harder to put back without damaging

 

Yeah you are right. Mostly because of "scisor" mechanism! Because of that thing i wanted to throw out my keybord of my apartment through the window. Damn I remember when i had to put about 20 of them into place. Almost sucide mission

Cheers!

Wysane z mojego Nexus 4 przy uyciu Tapatalka

 

Yeah you are right. Mostly because of "scisor" mechanism! Because of that thing i wanted to throw out my keybord of my apartment through the window. Damn I remember when i had to put about 20 of them into place. Almost sucide mission

Cheers!

Wysane z mojego Nexus 4 przy uyciu Tapatalka

 

Please delete. I made those posts because of tapatalk app...



Wysane z mojego Nexus 4 przy uyciu Tapatalka

 

Hi guys,

I've been lurking this thread ever since I got this laptop back in December 2011. I've been pretty happy with it and had no problems until now. I just wanted to pick everyone's minds to get some info.

I was using my laptop yesterday for a few hours doing web browsing until it suddenly shutdown.

I tried to turn it back on but it wouldn't power up. I checked the ac adapter and it was still warm from being used so the battery should still be full (and Windows would of told me that the battery was going to run out if the AC charger stopped working). I tried different power points as well.

I opened up the laptop to see if there is any visible damage but I couldn't see anything out of the ordinary (but that's just me, I only know how to replace parts). It is hard to troubleshoot if it can't turn on.

I don't think I have warranty anymore since it has been 2 years and 4 months since I got it.

What do you guys think has happened to it? What are my options?

 

Does the charging battery light come on when you plug the adapter in?

 

I was wondering at the time if a led was supposed to light up when plugged in, but no there is no light.