--->The Official MSI GT780/GT783 Owner's Lounge<---

Could be your brick gave out and then the battery drained powering the machine or the machine is so dead that it wont react to an input any more.

 

I guess I'll look for a replacement power brick just to be sure (it would have been helpful if it had a led in the brick itself just to show the status).

Are these chargers pretty universal? I'm not sure how hard it would be to find one that will fit this laptop.

 

Yes, you will want a li-shin or delta or other known brand though. 19 to 19.5V 9.5 amps (9.38 would be acceptable for instance but generally 9.5) or above.

You want a barrel type connector with inner 2.5mm diameter and outer 5.5mm diameter. No other size or type will do.

 

i agree, a small light on our power brick would be very helpfull.

 

If there's no lights on the front of the notebook it means it's not getting power from the adapter or battery.

Has anyone tripped on the power chord recently that caused it to be pulled to the side?

This results in the motherboard soldered on power connector that the adapter plugs into to break free the motherboard.

It doesn't take a lot of force to break off.

A clear view of the connector requires removal of the graphics card.

If this has happened the notebook won't get any power and the battery can't be charged.

If a replacement AC-Adapter doesn't fix the issue then I suspect a motherboard problem.

 

The cord is tucked away behind my desk, between the wall so tripping on the cord wouldn't be the case. I use this laptop as a desktop replacement so it hasn't been moved around for quite some time.

I have just ordered a adapter anyway so it should arrive sometime next week.

There's not much I can do during this easter break so I'll double check the power connector just to rule it out for sure. (Edit: The solder is fine by the look of it.)

If it is a motherboard problem and I'm out of warranty, does that mean MSI can't do anything for me or will they charge me for a repair?

What's the produre of an RMA? If they get you to send a laptop to them will they just replace it with a refurbished unit or will they fix the problem? I'm just wondering what will happen to my hard drives. Though I will definitely back them up before the machine leaves my hands.

 

You would call them up, get it sent in, they would look at it and quote you a cost and you would pay it to get it repaired.

 

My GT780DX recently had the graphics card,motherboard and 2x4GB memory modules replaced under a 3 year extended warranty through AIG.

If I had to pay it would have been over a $1000 out of my pocket.

If I had to pay for the repair I probably would not have done it.

You can sell it as is in the Buy/Sell NBR forum or ebay and use the money toward a new model or working used one.

How much are you willing to put into a 2+ year old notebook?

 

I could probably pay up to around $800. A motherboard + labour shouldn't really be over $1000?
It has been running so well up till now, this was so sudden and out of the blue.
I was intending to use it for 1 to 2 more years.

 

$800, that's the price a used working GT780DX usually sells for now on ebay.

Here's a GT783 listing
MSI GT783 625 Gaming Laptop | eBay

 

Wow they depreciate quickly.

I'll keep that in mind, I suppose I can just swap the hard drives over and it should work without any conflicts?

 

That'snot bad for a notebook too, but it's quite old now really.

Yes a hdd swap would work.

 

Anyone else notice sound improvement with Realtek HD Audio driver R2.74 build 6.0.1.7203

Station-Drivers - Realtek High Definition Audio (HDA) Drivers Version R2.74 (6.0.1.7203)

EDIT:version 6.0.1.7209 available from gigabyte:
http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileL...34gv2-p35k-p35wv2-p35gv2-audio-6.0.1.7209.zip

 

I got the charger today. It's pretty much the same model but ASUS branded and it has a light on it.
When I plug it into the laptop the light on the charger goes off, so it looks like a motherboard problem.

 

Yes it seems something is shorted on the mobo.

 

I sent the laptop to MSI last Friday and have just gotten it back today. It looks like it was fully dead.

They replaced:
Mainboard
GPU
ODD
SSD
HDD

I didn't have any warranty but they didn't charge me for some reason (The price to replace all these parts would be a bit scary). I'm just happy that I have a working computer now.

 

They may have determined it was an inherent manufacturing fault and as such should be repaired for free.

 

This defies logic.

The unit did not ship with an SSD as stock MSI hardware.

MSI never replaces owner installed hardware,only oem hardware that goes bad while still under warranty..

When my notebook went in for repair MSI replaced 2 4GB original NANA ram modules but the 2 Samsung modules I install that they said were also bad were not replaced.They were handed back to me wrapped in non conductive foil.

 

Hello, new member here!

Ok, the gpu (gtx560m) on my GT780 fried last night. I have the MS 1761. Now for my question. I'm looking for a "new" gpu. What are my choices? I'm not fond of buying a new heatsink, would like to use the one I have. Since I'm from Sweden I need to get one from the EU. I've found a seller at ebay "mokkin" who sells different types. Does it fit a gtx 770m without modding the heatsink too badly?
Anyhow, I've found these two.
GTX 770M
GTX 560M

The first one I guess is superior to the gtx 560m but also the fact that it is shipped from the UK which is a very good thing for me. Please help me out here, any other suggestions? Got married last saturday and many of the pictures are on the laptop.

 

You can put in the same GTX560M as you had.

If you opt for a NVIDIA GTX770M you'll need to get a different heatsink to fit the cards

The MSI GTX570M heatsink from a GT780DX works without any altering.

With a GTX770M you'll also need to use a modded driver inf that can be downloaded from laptopvideo2go.com

Look in the NBR Marketplace for parts.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/computer-components/751494-fs-msi-gtx-770m-3gb.html

Contact this seller when you have enough posts to PM.

NBR member, majster msi, is the go 2 guy for parts,used or new

I believe he's located in Europe.

MY advice,find a good used GTX560M and put it in.Don't invest too much in old notebook.

 

Thanks for your reply, I will try to contact him when I'm allowed to.
The reason why I looked at the 770 was the fact that I found it cheaper than the 560 on ebay. But if I need to buy extra heatsink and so forth I guess it doesn't matter. Well well, will any GTX560 do?

 

I never installed any new hardware on this laptop. It came with a 120GB SSD and a 750GB HDD. Maybe it is a AU variant or something?
Model Number: GT780DX-489AU

 

Yep, specs and prices differ between regions, WTP needs to remember not everyone is in America

 

I am selling a gtx 560M from a MSI GT780. 150 € card fiunktioniert properly.

 

Although I'm an American I haven't resided there for many years.That will change in about 2 months.

You are right about different regions.

I remember the god awful Transcend TS128GSSD25S-M 2.5" 128GB SSD MSI put in the GT783-625US

 

Darn, just ordered a gtx 460m from majster msi. Couldn't you've been a bit quicker with that one

 

I was just joshing you

 

I would contact majster msi and return the 460M if already shipped and get the 560M mentioned above.

Put new .0.5mm cooling pads on the graphic card before installing it.

 

I could possibly interest at the gtx 460m if the reservation was lost;-) I still have a W870CU without graphic card ^ ^

 

I think I will go with the 460m, I want my laptop to be up and running as fast as possible. Thanks for the heads up on the cooling pads WhatsThePoint.

 

That was the nice thing about the 16F3 generation, you could run them without a GPU.

 

i try realteak r.274 233 realese

 

Newest OFFICIAL Realtek HD Audio driver is version 2.74 build 7240 dated 05/14/2014

Realtek

Install requires 2 reboots
#1 after present driver uninstall
#2 after new driver install

 

Hi everybody

I have windows 8.1 running right now in an SSD by esata port, and I'm thinking about formatting the two original in RAID in order to use them for data.

So the idea was to take out an original HD to put the new one, but then I saw in the BIOS that when you're choosing the sata port to force the start there is sata0 sata1 and sata2. Is there another hidden sata port? or it is reffering the esata. Where is it?


Thank you. I thought it would be much talked here, but I've used the searcher and found nothing.

 

sata2 refers to the optical drive, which you can remove and use a caddy (ebay) to put a 3rd drive in.

i have 2 SSDs right now on sata0 and 1, and an HDD for data on sata2.

no need for raid it's fast enough imho and who needs the added problems.

 

Ah, feels so good to find this thread still alive every time I run in to a problem . Love you guys.

So, my problem is PC lag in a game, that has "recommended" settings lower than my gt780. But even if I play it in low settings, I still get lags. I'm not entirely sure what the problem is. Since I got the laptop 2.5 years ago, I've upgraded only the hdd my installing a samsung 840 pro 512 gb SSD.

Is there any way to test my comp and compare it to what it should be able to do? I have nvidia geforce experience thing installed, and when I look into "optimization" for the games, it always gives me lower settings than what I think I can run, like it thinks my pc sort of sucks. Which I find kind of weird.

 

What sort of lag? Low FPS or occasional juddering?

Benchmarks like 3dmark are used to test a computer.

 

Low FPS, yes. I can't remember having this issue with this game 6 months ago or so. So something must have happened. When there is a lot of things happening on the screen, I get very low FPS.

Ok so this is my problem atm:

So just installed FRAPS. And what's happening is this: I go from 15-70 fps. Like I'm at 65-70 for 3-4 secs, then down to 15-17 for 3-4 secs, then back up again to 65-70, then down to 15-17, and so on... Wat?

 

I got a problem at the back of the computer next to the charger there is this "lock" hole. I recently bought a universal safety lock (as is says on the box) and it doesnt fit. Is there any solution for this since i tested it with the other laptops around the house and it fit in all of them. Sorry for any grammar mistakes and such cause english isnt my native language

 

check anti-aliasing for that game. maybe its bumped up too high ?

 

Happens when I have it on lowest of the low settings, and when I have it on highest of the high. Maybe my comp is too warm, and I need to clean it out a bit? CPUs are at around 56-62 C when idle. And 65-70 when under stress (with some max temps, according to hwmonitor, hitting up towards 90, even a 100 on "package")... which seems very high, but it says max was 100, but keeps around 70. GPU at around 55, 66 max.

 

You may have hit it on the head with high temps. 56c idle is not bad but could be lower imho. could be room temps are too high. a lot of temp trouble start during summer with the AC units not yet plugged in.

when i game it stays in the low to mid 70s celsius too. i don't want my board to hit anywhere near 100c that's when trouble starts.

So give it a shot with the cleaning a bit.

Another avenue if you're good with tools could be to check the thermal compound. might want to buy something good to put in there to replace the factory TC.

btw, you should list your laptop specs in your signature it'll make it easier to help.

 

I'll try and do that. I think the problem is mostly in this one game, so the game itself might be causing it. Will test with a few other games as well.

Basically stole your signature, I hope we can still be friends.

 

lol no problem

 

Well, crap. Its not that one games fault. It happens in all my games, the others just don't demand as much. I've cleaned out the comp, and it wasn't really that dirty either.


Hmmm, so what to do? My fifa14 goes from 180 to 100 fps (So I don't feel the problem), nba 2k14 goes from 120 to 50 (and as low as about 44) fps, so I can notice that, and in HoN I go from 65-80 down to like... 12-19, making it unplayable. So what the heck is the problem, any suggestions?


edit: Weird thing is that this happens no matter the settings (low vs. high) and regardless of what's going on the screen (me alone doing nothing vs. 10 people fighting at the same time with tonnes of effects).


edit 2: Hmm HWMonitor is showing... ok temps I think, but there are 2 outliers here:

THRM reached 101 C !! And under load was jumping from 66-90, and was mostly steady at 80-90. Under CPU, Core 0 also reached very high temps, and actually after playing for 5 mins, it went down (started at around 85-90, went down to 65-70), was later back up. TZ00/01 are at 28C/30C.. What does this mean?

 

The GPU/CPU temp/usage graphs are not showing any strange behaviour?

 

Where do I find that? Task manager? It's weird I see these higher temps, as my comp feels very.. not warm. It's even blowing "cold" (not really, but more like.. mild) air.


edit: Ok, maybe this is a problem: CPU-Z says that core #0 (I can't seem to look at it for other cores??) is at 798.10 mhz, then after a few secs up to 2992.33 mhz, and the multiplier under it goes from x8 to x28, and that goes up and down. 800, then 3000, 800 then 3000. By eye measurements it's happening ca. at the same rate as the FPS in-game goes up and down.


edit 2: So, disabling intel speedstep seems to have somewhat fixed the problem. At least nba 2k14 is running pretty stable at over 100 FPS, and HoN is running around 55 FPS (but this could maybe change with lower settings). BUT, I don't feel like disabling speedstep is a great idea. Is it? I feel like I'll shorten my components or something?

 

You need to download programs like GPU-Z, intel XTU, Core temp etc, the heart of any system analysis.

Your processor jumps up and down in frequency millions of times every second, your eye will usually not be able to tell what is going on.

The processor will jump a lot when at idle.

 

@ bigbadVuk
Power Option = High Performance
Speed stepping = disabled

NVIDIA Driver 337.81 Beta
Station-Drivers - Forum - Sujet : Nvidia GeForce 337.81 Beta (1/1)

Fan Control App:
http://www24.zippyshare.com/v/93756320/file.html

You might also want to try the MSI NOS Utility from the GT70 20D
This app uses power from your AC Adaper and battery at the same time.

 

I turned on high performance, didn't help. What helped was (as I stated.. I think) turning off speedstep. But reading about online it felt like "yeah turning off can make it go faster BUT YOUR PC WILL DIE". So I got a bit worried about it. I'm on the previous driver, but sure, why not. Not really sure what the fan control app does. I'm guessing it controls the fan, but don't truly get how this is useful. To cool it more or what? Thanks for your help anyway!

Also, how often do you guys redo the thermal paste?


edit: I seem to be getting an error when opening the .zip, "unexpected end of archive". And then I can't unzip.