*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

been using it since 1 week, the final version that is. runs beautifully on my laptop

I used the MSMG Toolkit to remove Telemetry, Windows Defender, all Windows Store Apps, Windows System Restore, etc......

I basically now just have the OS, nothing else....

thanks to Mr Fox for teaching me how.......

 

Hi everyone,

New here and in need of some help from the pros! Perhaps @Mr. Fox would be able to help. I am wanting to get the EC111 that Mr. Fox said he went back to because the version 113 is no good at keeping the settings stable. I am having the same problem that apparently he had when he flashed version 113 on his F5. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

Long night with the EVOC, what temps should these be getting with a 1080 non-oc? Mine seems to sit right at 89-90c but doesn't appear to be throttling much.

 

Out of curiosity, what are you doing while hitting those temps? Gaming, benching, running multiple apps, browsing?

 

I have both... I posted comparisons way earlier in the thread but this was months ago...

What I recall:

Overall the TN panel is definitely better than average but is still a TN panel... I like the higher refresh rate but may go back to my IPS panel soon to see if i do actually notice a difference. I played at 4k 60hz last night through my tv and I think either my eyes suck, which they do, or I just don't play games where the 120hz really matters.

 

Gaming. While benching the temps actually stay in the mid 80's for some tests, firestrike usually lands @ 79c. They aren't horrible temps and everything is fine for normal use, just not seeing a lot of headroom to overclock without extreme temps. For whatever reason the new mass effect game makes this thing produce insane temps.

 

Also went to black screen on reboot from sleep only. Hard reset fixed for me, no issues since

 

I just installed the Creator's Update last night. Zero issues for me.

 

The always incompetent Cyberpower UK have totally stripped some of the small M2x4 screws on the heatsink of my Fangbook.

I tried the trick with putting a wide rubber band on the screw to get better friction, without any luck. And I don't have any tools to cut a groove in the screw.

I've been looking online for an M2 screw extractor. There a $6 one from Laptopscrews - but it'll cost an additional $60 to have it shipped to Europe.

Any advice?

 

@madeinholt had similar issues with Cyberpower UK. He might be able you help you.


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Yeah, I think he cut a groove in the screw for a flathead screwdriver.

I just ordered one of these on Ebay - hopefully it'll do the trick: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pz57e.htm

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L...AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vampliers

 

Did some more testing tonight. Firestrike 1080 temps stay very low 80's but all games seem to peg it up to 88-90c no matter what after 30 minutes of play. Can't seem to find any answers in this thread if this temp is normal or if I should try a repaste. Anyone have any thoughts? CPU temps are excellent with the delid.

 

I think that's too hot if you're talking about the GPU, for one thing you'll end up with lower boost clocks if the GPU is getting that hot, and generally GPUs run cooler than that, even in laptops. If you've got a K version CPU in there, and you're talking about CPU temperatures, then this is a bit more 'normal', but it's still a bit hot - you might need to repaste and/or delid. If you're talking CPU temperatures, what game is it that you're playing, do you know how high the CPU usage is during your gaming, (over 75% constant CPU load?)?

 

There is nothing wrong with 88-90c for your GPU. PLEASE...Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

 

GPU temps, 1080 gtx. Cpu temps are fine and under control. Games Overwatch, Mass Effect and Nier all peg it to 90 degrees. Other games like MKX or Street Fighter V temps stay in low 80s.

The crazy thing is it only throttles about 50hz down and if you apply some OC it will maintain full stock boost clocks with same temp.

Thanks Donald, just looking for some validation since not a whole lot of people have this model with the 1080 in it. I am loving this beast overall and even with the high gpu temp it still is fairly cool to the touch.

 

90's is too hot for a GTX 1080 in the Tornado. Notebookcheck.net reviewed a GTX 1080 version of that laptop and with 60mins of Witcher 3 stress the GPU was stabalised at 79 degC - you need to shave off another 10 degC from those temperatures (higher temperature equals lower boost clock = lower performance), that's assuming your room temperature is about 20 degC - if you live with room temperature of 30 degC+, then those temps are normal. Here's the article on notebookcheck.net for GTX 1080 Tornado, Ctrl-F (find) "Witcher 3 stress" to zip quickly to the bit I'm talking about:
https://www.notebookcheck.net/Euroc...TX-1080-MSI-16L13-Laptop-Review.206710.0.html

 

@Mr. Fox can you please chime in here as the resident expert on this model.

Yes...my advice is to never take the Lord's name in vain.
.

 

Running 90°C is not going to damage your 1080. It is safe, but it's really bad for performance. Pascal GPUs start throttling a little bit around 45°C and around 80°C they start to throttle too much. So keeping the GPU as cool as possible is important to get the best gaming performance.

If you run other games and benchmarks like Fire Strike, Time Spy, Sky Diver and 3DMark 11 if the GPU temps are good it could be an issue with those 3 games. If you haven't already, check the GPU temps with those benchmarks. MKX and Street Fighter V are not very demanding games, so you need a broader set of 3D graphics stress test to help you figure out if maybe the GPU paste isn't right, or maybe the pads are too thick and the heat sink is making poor contact with the GPU die.

With respect to Overwatch, I found this with a quick Google search.

https://us.battle.net/forums/en/overwatch/topic/20744324514?page=1

https://forums.geforce.com/default/.../overwatch-gtx-1080-abnormal-gpu-temperature/

http://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/12/364043054108246138/

You can try changing the settings in NVIDIA Control Panel to set the GPU for PhysX instead of Auto (default) and see if that changes anything.

Also, before doing anything else, be sure your fans are running. Press the far left button on the panel above the keyboard to force them to max and see if the temps are still high. If the temps are still high with max fans, you need to be investigating the GPU pads/paste/heat sink fit.

@D2 Ultima - any other thoughts?

Thanks. Maybe @D2 Ultima has some thoughts as well.

Awesome advice, as always. You never know when you might need His help. And, using it that way doesn't fix the problem.

 

(which was an expanded version of what I was saying effectively)

Not sure I agree with a single Firestrike/Time Spy run being a good indication of maximum gaming temperatures - the tests aren't long enough duration in my experience, real world gaming if the GPU is the bottleneck (ie. 100% sustained GPU load and not using V-sync) is gonna create higher temperatures. If his GPU is getting into the 90's while gaming, that's enough evidence to know something needs to be done to improve the cooling - assuming he's not resting the laptop on a duvet & blocking the intake vents or has a room temperature of 30 degC+. Repasting that I suggested earlier seems like a good idea, as with the checking the positioning of the thermal pads that you mentioned.

 

Search for damaged screw remover on Amazon. I carefully cut a slot in the offending screw and quickly ordered some new ones to replace the lot in stainless steel. I tried pliers but I think the screws you are on about are the recessed ones. God luck!

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If you have a paid version it can be infinitely looped, or just run it repeatedly in rapid succession. Or, run Heaven Benchmark on an endless loop.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Laptop is actually on an antec cooler I modified and I tried it sitting on my desk to make sure it wasn't negative static pressure issues playing into account here.

@Mr. Fox all gaming and tests are run with max fans, those temps are with max fans engaged. If it is the pads, do you know the correct thickness to get? Looks like FrozenPc sells a good range of sizes. I will try the loop benchmark in a few to see what it does.

 

Yes (as long as you loop the Graphics Tests rather than include the CPU tests too, the CPU tests give the GPU a massive break, apart from the 'Combined' tests, and as you say you need the paid version in order to do that. Heaven is good.).

 

Witcher 3 tops out 84c with a laptop cooling pad and fans on max, stock clocks. Firestrike looping gets around 75 degrees max fans.

Going to start with a repaste and go from there before I touch the pads.

Quick edit - just noticed ME and Overwatch use 100% cpu where as Witcher 3 uses about 70%. Explains the temp difference. *confirmed turned on hairworks to put more strain on gpu since frames are locked @ 60. Temps went up to around 88.

 

Hi guys, I opened my F5 and upgraded my ssd. During the process i had battery removed. After I put everything back, now it says "Plugged in, not charging" on my battery icon in task bar.
I can run my laptop fine in battery mode, but I can't have it charging. Tried to uninstall microsoft ACPI control method battery driver and ac adapter driver those methods but still not working.
Anyone know how to fix this?

 

Mine does that off/on all the time since the day it arrived. It does not seem to affect anything for me so I ignore it. I think it is a Windows error. Does everything work OK?

Got to love all of the stupid/wonky battery saver filth and the ungodly emphasis on it. Is it any wonder that even 2 or 3 notebooks are left that are actually worth buying today? The TF5 has some of that cancer nonsense in the BIOS courtesy of the nutjobs at MSI.

 

LOL. Yes everything works fine. I hope it's an On/Off issue. The first time i received the laptop, the orange charging indicator light was on though when I plugged the AC. Not sure when the things went wrong...

 

Mine does this as well, however only between 90% - %100, try running below 90 and then plug it back in. I remember reading somewhere that this is a built in "battery health" feature or something on some notebooks

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Thanks i'll try it now!


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That's by design to protect your battery from overcharging

 

oh man it works...lol.. I got it to 89% then plugged in the AC and now it's charging...
Do you know if this battery health feature was done by Windows10? Can't believe they can be this thoughtful...

 

Yeah, that is exactly what it is. That is probably the one thing I dislike about this model. I don't care about the battery. All I care about is performance. The battery will last longer than it needs to without turdbook features like battery saver technology gumming up the works. I never needed these worthless gimmicks with the M18xR1/R2 and the batteries lasted as long as I owned them (years).

The important thing is that it runs off the AC power exclusively without any need for the battery to be present. As long as it has no functional reliance on hybrid power bullcrap like some of the BGA turdboooks do the notification error message is just an annoyance, so I ignore it.

 

Yeah I remember you never enabled the FlexiCharger on your Clevos

 

Heck no... Don't need any silly gimmicks like this. Works better without it. We should be able to disable this crap on the TF5 as well with BIOS unlocked. I have seen a few times where this silly stuff threw off my benchmark scores when it switched charging modes on me in the middle of a run.

 

This is true. It's bad for a battery to be at 100% charge constantly. It's also bad for a battery to be fully discharged and recharged. Battery life is measured by discharge cycles.

The best way to "store" a battery is at about 70-80% charge. If you run plugged in nearly 100% of the time like I do using that BIOS feature for "battery saver" is the best way to prolong the life of the battery as it's akin to storing it at 70-80% charge.

 

Why should we? I have never used in my laptops. Of course... The battery in my now 7 years old Clevo is dead by now But will the battery in all the JOKEBOOKS last equal long with the widespread Battery Turbo Boost features?

 

Okay, so, I have to say something is indeed wrong.

Overwatch doesn't make GPUs that hot.... in-game. The main menu however, without an FPS limiter... well, even though I do not have the pads yet to do the adjustments (thanks newegg sellers for giving me multiple sets of 0.5mm instead of the 1mm and 1.5mm I needed!) here is max fans with a -115mV undervolt on my CPU (laptop is slightly propped up with my beloved toilet paper mod). The day is not the hottest, but still pretty warm:

That was a little under 3 minutes of main menu time. The game does not go above 300fps. According to my power brick, I was sucking 402W sitting here.

On the other hand, with the same settings but playing a game, I won't even hit 70c on either card. The CPU wasn't undervolted in that video, nor was I attempting to play properly, so you can ignore both CPU temps (though consider that since the heatsinks are connected, this is added heat onto my GPUs, even slightly) and my gameplay, just focus on FPS being very high and the temperatures

Street Fighter V on the other hand, will not even HIT 60c if I use auto fans. I recently was gifted MK X but I have not run it yet; I cannot be certain what its temperatures would be like. But those games are 60fps locked and SF V was maxed-out capable on one 780M; it should not nearly be hitting a 1080N to that temperature.

As for Mass Effect, I can't say; I know it's unoptimized badly though. NieR I have seen people on desktops get hot temperatures with it; the game is just pretty unoptimized on PC. But I still find 90c a bit off, unless 4K is the resolution for each game?

Are we certain that his GPU contact is good to the heatsink? Something sounds off. There was a time when my thermal paste pumped out on my 4800MQ and my temps raced to, and stuck near, 90c almost under any load. Playing hearthstone? 90c. Streaming hearthstone? Still 90c (with near 90% constant CPU usage pulling about 50W). Playing Black Ops 2? 90c. There was BARELY any thermal paste and it seemed by the time the CPU hit the high 80s the thermal transfer started working but it never got any cooler. So that is indeed one thing I'd suggest checking, unless using higher fanspeeds was never done.

 

Remember, though, that no matter what speed your LCD panel, the other reason for getting a beastly GPU is VR. Experts recommend frame rates of 90 FPS in the VR headset, and that typically has two eye screens at 1080p resolution each. So a GPU that can do two monitors at 1080p is approximately what you need for VR. (Not exactly, though -- the game engines are smart enough to share a lot of the render pipeline, such as occlusion culling, between both eyes.)

In other words, even if you opt for the 4K panel and have "only" 60 FPS on your screen, you won't feel you wasted a GTX 1080 when you start running VR games with a headset.

 

Ah, I may be able to shed some light on that (pun intended). On my EVOC, that was caused by undervolting while having different clocks for different core counts. I had (approximately) 5.0 on one core, 4.9 on two, 4.8 on three, and 4.7 on four. Under heavy load, things ran at 4.7 or 4.8 and were stable. When I was under light load -- notably, coming out of sleep -- only one core was in use, it tried to run at 5.0 GHz, and it black screened.

After someone on this forum ( @Mr. Fox, I think, but maybe @Phoenix) pointed out the error of my ways, I started running all core counts at the same speed, 4.7 GHz, and at a less aggressive undervolt. I can get the higher clocks if I'm willing to apply higher voltage, but then the temps are higher than my mental comfort level. So for the past roughly 10 days, I have been using this machine full time for work including 3D content creation, lightmap bakes, etc., mixing heavy and light CPU, in and out of sleep mode, and zero problems.

...All of which only demonstrates just how awesome this forum is!

 

That seems hot to me. My 1080, even under benchmarks like Firestrike, never really gets above 80C and usually stays in the 70s.

 

LOL! I basically regard the "battery" on this class of machine as "a built-in uninterruptible power supply."

 

Really awesome reply, thank you for the leg work. I bought some 1mm pads off Amazon, are both 1mm and 1.5mm needed to replace the stock ones? I haven't opened it up yet because my grizzly kryonaut will be here tomorrow, but I am really hopeful it is just a bad paste job and nothing else. Would a copper shim help here if the heatsink is not making good contact or the pads the way to go?

 

Yes, that was yours truly...

Doing MOAR with more is better than doing more with less.

Exact-a-mundo

 

That's so true! I do want a nice VR headset pretty soon after I buy this. I think I've pretty much decided on the IPS screen for the best color and viewing. I think for me 4K on a 15" screen is overkill. Did you get the 4K?


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Yes, I got the 4K, but as noted in my other posts, I have work-related reasons for needing it. My machine is 75% work and 25% personal use.

 

I can't really say. If there is bad contact entirely, a shim may help, but I would quicker contact HID if you got it from them first.

 

Oh yea I remember those. That's my only chocking factor now is to bump up to 4K or not. I have had a MacBook Pro for a lot of my life and really love the higher res screens. But as of late, after I sold my MacBook I have been on a little dell until I could save up for this one. So I will be bumping up from this to the 1080P. Also my office mate has an ASUS with a 1080P IPS and it's beautiful. So that's where it gets me to just stick with that.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Now IPS vs 4K? @Mr. Fox @Phoenix


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If never use a 4K screen on a laptop even if you paid me. Period.

 

Certain reason for that?


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