*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Jobs a good-un! 32GB showing in CCleaner and all the other places the 2 x Kingston KVR24S17S8 wasn't showing

Off now for some memtest action whilst I do the school run and dinner.

Yipee!

 

Great, get the same speed and capacity, a brand name isn't important except in very rare cases where a user has a biased opinion out of experience. I'm running samsung sticks, no problems.

 

@Mr. Fox man the battery was a pain to remove, then the small fan connectors which are very tiny and hard to remove, are there any tricks to slotting those connectors from their ports? My fingers hurt....

 

Are all your sticks Samsung?

 

Glad the Crucial sticks are working for you. I've always had good luck with that company.

 

The ones in my laptop? Yes they are.

 

Eurocom support responded to one of my comments on YouTube and have stated they now have a solution for full brightness control on the 120Hz display. I assume we will hear or be given this solution very soon.

 

I just got my laptop back with the new unlocked bios, How is the steps to overclock the memory. These unclocked bios are hard to read out

 

@Mr. Fox has an excellent YouTube video detailing a custom bios and what most things do. I'm not sure if it's the same one you're using, but I'd imagine it's a good place to start.

 

cool thanks, didnt know he also had a unlocked bios video

 

I ended up with this one, then modded the enclosure on the 4TB 2.5" notebook HDD to accommodate the connection, removed the USB 3.0 adapter and connect this directly to the SATA port.

Funny thing is the read/write performance is notably faster than the 2TB HDD permanently installed inside the chassis of my Tornado F5.

 

So after trying something else from Zoltan which seems not to be working, I decided to go all out. To my surprise my EVOC had a copper shim on the IHS, didn't know that!! @Zoltan@HIDevolution @Ted@HIDevolution @Donald@HIDevolution
Guys you should list it on your site, deleidded, undervolted & copper shim on CPU! Awesome

 

Hot damn I made it! Thanks to @Mr. Fox for his tear down video! So is just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes enough to reset the Bios?

 

I'm pretty sure a copper shim is not awesome though, if you can manufature a heatsink that fits properly without a shim then you get better results - a shim just means that there's now an extra layer of paste between the 'extra' interface created by the shim, this slows down heat transfer.

 

How do I remove this battery? It is stuck in there.....

 

Look at how it is made. It slides in parallel to the motherboard (sideways). Unplug it. The connector only fits one way. Observe the position of the connector as it relates to the socket.

 

If @Mr. Fox Is using one, then I'm using one too. He is my teacher.

 

The thing is, it's too hard feels like if it is glued in there or something......

 

Well, it could be that the heatsink doesn't make optimum contact without a shim, but that doesn't mean shims are awesome, they're a workaround, not an ideal solution - ideal solution is a heatsink that fits perfectly without the need to use a shim - this will provide the best heat transfer & the lowest temperatures. Not saying you shouldn't use a shim in your case though, sounds like the heatsink won't fit properly without it for whatever reason.

 

I get what you are saying, but... Seems rare that any notebook is made that well in today's world. It's awesome that HIDevolution makes an effort to correct the mistakes of lazy ODMs with half-ass engineering and poor quality control; which is, sadly, the status quo. All brands of notebooks are made with serious flaws today. Most will benefit from simple mods like this. It would be ideal if they were just built well from the start, but good luck with that. Wish in one hand and poop in the other one and see which hand gets filled first.

 

Well it's finally out.....damn it I need a drink!

 

When should I reconnect the battery? Should I reassemble everything with CMOS battery disconnected, just make sure to empty the capacitors then do it all over?

 

Yes, it snaps in very securely, but it is not glued. There are tabs on the side of the plastic connector on the end of the wire. See if you can "grab" those with your fingernails and pull it out.

Only disconnect it for a few seconds, then put it back. Waiting is not necessary.

 

Now you can see the tremendous value in my extension cord mod. Another example of ODM engineering stupidity at it's best right here, LOL.

 

Well it is a good experience overall. I have learned from it. Now I hope the laptop will boot up fine without any problems. I'm going to add a tiny bit of Arctic 5 thermal paste, I don't have any ICDiamond with me. Then I will try the zero default MV with a 1.100 ovveride.

 

This little dude saved my bacon. Highly recommended.

 

Mine arrived yesterday!

 

I'm back in action baby! Just had to set the mode to AHCI in the bios as it was reset. I need now to go set the override voltage in the bios to 1150 just to be safe, I'd hate to have to open up the whole laptop again!!

 

Well, this has certainly tidied up my U3!

 

Did you replace the CLU with Artic Silver?

Did you happen to notice where the CLU had run off the side of the shim? That's why they have the Kapton tape there. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZFQNT6

CLU and Conductonaut are truly awesome and NOTHING works as well, but it definitely requires caution and diligence. If you slam the laptop around a lot and have a rough and tumble lifestyle, using it carries greater risk. For something that is not moved much, the risk is very low. The CPU and GPU point downward and gravity would carry the leakage onto the heat sinks, not the motherboard. On machines that have the CPU and GPU on top of the motherboard, like Alienware and perhaps others, using liquid metal carries some greater risk and warrants extra caution. It's always good to do something like the Kapton tape or some other type of dam to keep the liquid metal corralled and confined to where it needs to be.

 

Oops... I missed off the arty farty side shot!

 

ok, I think I will settle with 1100 Override in the Bios for now, at least until I get the CMOS battery mode from HIDevolution with extra ram sticks and another 960 EVO 1TB SSD drive to run it with the other one in RAID-0. I added some thermal paste to Both CPU and GPU, I hope it helps with the temps now, off I go to try BF1. Oh wanna laugh now? Today I had my desktop running while I was asleep, I woke up at a power outage! I asked my sister what happened and she said there was 2 power outages today, seems my desktop got the middle finger syndrome too....so I was a guy with 2 machines down and an Iphone 6....I don't take such **** lightly, Tornado it is!!

I'm gonna strip down that desktop out of a 1TB EVO 850 SSD and shove it into my EVOC. I want to sell that desktop now, so pissed at it! It won't work with the display port screen unless I hooked up an HDMI or a DVI screen after a power outage to reset it, this is stupid!!

 

I only added a tiny pea drop on the center of the ship and spread it around with a card, same on GPU, I didn't remove the original one as it seemed alright IMO.

And god no I didn't focus on that little bit!! Is it really bad? Please don't tell me to remove the heatsink again >.<

Excuse my ignorance, but this is the first time I see such a tape, what are it's applications?

 

I would not take it apart again until you have the CMOS battery extension. It is not hurting anything being on the Kapton tape. That's why the tape was placed there. It did its job effectively.

I just thought it was a good example to show why using caution with liquid metal thermal compounds is important.

Conventional wisdom would not advocate mixing them like that, but sometimes conventional wisdom keeps us from moving forward and discovering new things that work well. If your temps are OK with the mixture of CLU and Artic Silver do not worry about that either. It should cause no harm. I have never seen the effect of having a mixture of thermal paste like that, so I will be interested in knowing what the temps are like. Please share than info.

 

I shall share that info as soon as I test Battlefield 1. I'm also curious....
I used this thermal paste to be exact
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silve...34&slotNum=0&imprToken=Md2ueaTyra3YihnHr1Nosg

 

Interesting information, with broad applications: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

Specific to electronics...

 

I will buy one roll of it.

 

Here are my results with a 1100 override after playing BF1 for around 2 hours stright. Still toasty, I'm going to try with a 1050 and see how it performs tomorrow.

 

What kind of surface is the laptop on while you are gaming?

 

are these on auto fans? or you running with max? maybe the mixture didnt worked well, or maybe the laptop on a surface that blocking air?
just for comparison my 6700k remains within 90c during high-end games bf1, witcher 3, ashes of sing etc @4.4 ghz. and here we have ambient over 30c. make sure your laptop is place on well ventilated surface. and maybe define custom fan curves so they maybe actually usefull and still wont make much noise.

 

Hey does anyone know the type of bracket for mounting an ssd into the drive bay? Or a compatible one? I seem to have misplaced mine...

Edit: Scratch that, found it. Carry on gentlemen

 

It's on an air cooler pad, single big fan. Laptop rear end is lifted up high on a 45 dgrees angle.

 

The 7700K runs hot, everywhere on the internet I see it....
I'm using this one:
https://www.amazon.com/iMounTEK-Portable-Laptop-Table-Cooling/dp/B018WNXPEE
I'm playing on MAX fan speeds, noise isn't an issue as I play with headphones.

My guess maybe further voltage adjustments and MAYBE a full repaste....I need some new IC Diamond tubes.

 

Yes, 7700K does tend to run hot. It seems as if your machine is running a bit hotter than some and it could be the paste. Since you just put fresh AS5 on it (not my favorite) I am a little surprised it is this hot with max fans. If you did not add paste underneath the shim, that could also be an issue. The amount of CLU that was on the top of the shim did not seem like enough. If the underside of the shim is the same, it could be as simple as having poor contact from not enough thermal paste. When you get the IC Diamond, remove the shim and clean up the old CLU with cotton swabs, lint free wipes and isopropyl alcohol. Pull the CLU toward the center of the CPU to avoid having it drip off the edge. Just for kicks, try leaving the shim out when you repaste. If the temps are hotter you can always put it back in again. My Tornado F5 has good enough contact without a shim.

These are very inexpensive and work really well for cleaning up thermal compounds as well as other small cleaning jobs on computer parts. This is what I use. You can use any brand, just make sure there are no ingredients except alcohol. You don't want anything with aloe vera or skin lotion, or floral scent because those will contaminate the surfaces that need to be clean and oil free. Using cotton swabs with 91% isopropyl alcohol works well for bigger clean up tasks, then you can do the final cleanup with the prep pads to remove any cotton fibers that may have been left behind.

https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/w...s-isopropyl-alcohol-70/ID=prod6169504-product


You can also find 91% isopropyl alcohol at the same place. https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/w...1-first-aid-antiseptic/ID=prod6056576-product

 

Those are some high temps and this after a delid?

 

Come on now!!

When you don't have a heatsink that fits properly, and you just ship it that way, as so many do, that is one thing. When we take the time to figure out a better way to do it, at no additional charge, I would think you would let someone say they thought that was awesome, without raining on their parade.

 

This reminds me of the variable clock + 16Mhz 68000 mod I did on my Amiga 500, ran leads to a toggle switch so I could switch between a glorious 8 and ~14Mhz. 14Mhz was great until you executed something that required exact timing, which a lot of Amiga software did. It was fantastic for heavy processing tasks though.

 

And lets be honest, of course the added layers of TIM and another metal surface will theoretically impede heat transfer, but if the materials are top notch and the workmanship is sound we're talking margin of error. The flip side of not doing it when it's needed, as you pointed out, is far less optimal.

 

Yeah, it's good that you fixed it, I think that's great - I was just stating the fact that the ideal solution is a heatsink that fits perfectly without a shim, which I mentioned because one of the guys here was going on about how awesome it was to have a copper shim, copper shims aren't awesome, but you've done a good job to address the lack of perfection in the original heatsink. Like I said before a shim slows down heat transfer due to an extra interface & an extra layer of thermal paste, but in the case of a somewhat poorly manufactured heatsink that doesn't fit optimally then a shim can improve physical contact & reduce temperatures. It is awesome though that you went the extra step to fix the issue. (Nothing wrong with me stating these facts, because you don't want people having the wrong impression about shims & just using them willy nilly to lower temperatures just because they're in the mistaken believe that they magically lower temperatures in all situations - when in actual fact they raise temperatures in all situations apart from ones where the heatsink previously wasn't making good contact with the chip.)