*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

how on earth are you reaching 5.1 GHz bro? Can you tell me the settings? as in, static or adaptive voltage and what did you set it to? what power limits for 1/2?

Is that just an OC to benchmark a few or does it survive an AIDA64 Stress test for at least 5 mins?

 

mind you, when Silicon Lottery says X speed, that's in a desktop computer with proper cooling so your mileage may vary.

Example, my previous Silicon Lottery 6700K was advertised at 4.8GHz, but in a laptop, I could only reach 4.6 GHz stable. I was able to reach 4.7GHz but not survive stress tests. I did 4.6 GHz 24/7 though with 0 undervolt on that awesome Silicon Lottery 6700K

 

What.....the... did all those ridiculous services been running on our Windows OS all this time? Especially the privacy stuff, thats insane.

 

you will be horrified when you see what I am disabling, a stock Windows 10 is basically a legal virus in the form of an OS.....

@Mr. Fox knows best what I'm talking about

 

I'm thinking about modifying the existing bottom cover or 3D print a fitting cover that can house a slim 120mm x 12mm fan or two.

https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-SY1212SL12L/dp/B002CYPWTG


Do you guys expect any issue if I use a pair of 2-way 4pin splitter on this MB to support the stock fans and 2 x 120mm?





*Above mentioned 120mm fan is 12mm thick, but found 80mm x 10mm fans as well. I figured I'd end up using a cooling pad anyways, perhaps built in fans on the bottom cover will simplify things.

 

That is a great idea, but I am pretty sure there is not enough space for those fans. Maybe 3D print a new bottom cover to add an extra 0.25 to 0.50 inch of height to gain the necessary additional interior chassis space. I wouldn't mind the machine being a little thicker. I don't give a rat's ass about thin and light (totally unimportant metric to me). Probably need to tie into the AC adapter jack for a power source. Then you don't have to load any circuits with more power than they were intended to provide.

 

I've asked Donald if I could purchase a spare (If not, I'll just use mine), but I might know a CAD guy who can help make it happen once I get my hands on one. I don't mind it being 10~12mm thicker either, if it makes sense with the possible thermal benefits.

 

Maybe 3D printing a new perimeter frame with 0.5 inch taller sides and using the existing bottom cover could be easier and more effective.

 

I can definitely picture it, with some sneaky work with angles, it might not look like it added too much depth either. I'm not sure how the parameter cover will latch onto the existing bottom though without looking bulky.

 

When HIDevolution gets some of the extra bottom covers, I was going to do something similar to what you thinking. I am going to create a lip bracket to hold the fans in place. Then I will sit it on top of my current modded U3 cooler, three sets of fans working in unison.

I also wish I had an extra heatsink to 'attempt' a liquid cooling mod.

 

That sounds greats. Do you have a picture of your modded U3 cooler you can share?

 

@Rage Set you have an HIDevolution taptop?

 

U3 is the best. I have modded several.

First one: http://imgur.com/a/iZ192
Second mod: http://imgur.com/a/IGq3C
Additional tweaks: http://imgur.com/a/7RmEM

Latest tweak (Vardar fans)...

 

It is a stable 5.1Ghz; it is 5.2Ghz that gives me so much trouble in this laptop. I think my EC is what helps me the most. My EC is 16L1ED61.108 and I don't get any throttling with it.

I'll test the 5.1Ghz for you and post a screenie.

EDIT: I am now dealing with the "black" screen issue.

 

Awesome. I'd love to compare yours to mine for 5.1 GHz.

For 5.2GHz try increasing cache ratio. Cache ratio was causing me fits. If you set the multipliers first, then move to the overclocking menu and core max ratio and cache max ratio both to 83 and let the cache decide for itself what speed to run, that might bring some stability. That worked great on the P870DM3 to get me past the 5.1GHz barrier. I was trying to keep the cache ratio at 42 and 43 and that was bringing the whole system down in an unstable mess at 5.2GHz.

 

@UsmanKhan In case you missed it........ Windows 10 Creators Update Bloatware Free Edition

 

That's very interesting. I have been keeping my cache ratio at 42 for 5.2. Thanks for the info bro!

 

Thank you for sharing. I travel often and thought about portability of carrying a cooling pad such as U3, but it might not be as practically as modified bottom cover I believe. I know you've done tremendous amount of research on thermals, where would you recommend is the best place/places to position these slim fans (preferably 80mm x 10mm since its thinner than 120mm x 12mm) if I went ahead with the 3d printed cover?

Also, how much drop in temperature do you observe while using U3? Trying to get an estimate of how much drop in temperature I can expect from adding these fans to the bottom cover.

 

I emphatically would not, but damn, it looks boss!

 

I use my laptop for my primary work machine, and deliberately buy it myself rather than having the company pay so I can get the very best tools for my livelihood. Get a good machine, then keep it longer, and you pay about the same amortized cost per year for hardware -- but you avoid the agony of moving your files, your configs, your personalization, etc., from one machine to another to another to another.

Not all laptops -- and certainly not this one! -- are throwaway tech. My wife and I bought almost-twin IBM Thinkpad W700 machines more than a decade ago, and both of those machines are still usable as workstations today, even though their CPU and GPU are slow by today's standards. I reluctantly allowed my W700 to be pried from my hands when it was six years old (!) because I finally needed a performance bump.

The feeling I have so far on my EVOC 16L-G-1080 is that it's going to become "my next W700", the machine I'll fall in love with and hold onto until I absolutely must give it up some day,

 

I am stable at 4.7 GHz on all four cores, FWIW, and I'm very conservative about my settings because it's my work machine. Let's face it, 100 MHz in this range is only about 2%. Although I was able to push mine to 4.8 GHz, I backed off slightly to get more stability and lower temps, and I can't tell any observable difference in responsiveness.

 

No manufacturer would ever do this, because of perceived litigation risk, but on your own machine you would not actually have to have any grille between the fan blades and the outside air, on the bottom of the machine. Maybe print a bottom cover that has *gaps* for those slim fans, so they occupy the thickness of the cover itself? All the techies here know that those fans are not going to sever anyone's fingertip, but you'd never convince a lawyer of that. (Disclaimer: If you try this suggestion, and the razor-sharp blades of the fan amputate your arm at the shoulder, it's your own damned fault for listening to me.)

 

What's causing the black screen issue again? It seems whenever I install any Nvidia driver, I get the black (aka dim) screen. I uninstall the nvidia driver and everything works.

 

Are you using @j95 driver mods and having black screen problems, or the latest cancerware for BGA crapbooks from the NVIDIOTS? Maybe try one of j95's latest mods and see if that nonsense still happens.

 

I used the overclocking references that @Mr. Fox posted a few pages back, looks good so far and even the temps were way lower this time!!

 

I've had this issue ever since I first got the laptop, almost a month ago. I've had completely black screens, and a very dimly lit screen as well. I'm highly contemplating returning this model and requesting either a Clevo with a 1080, or I don't know. I'm beyond frustrated.

Sometimes the screen works, sometimes not. Sometimes if I plug in an external display and unplug it, the main screen comes back, and sometimes it doesn't. It's happened while idling on the desktop, browsing Amazon, and playing WoW.

Which screen option do you guys have? I've got the 120hz panel. Have y'all figured it out? I have a day to decide before my 30 day return period is up.

Edit: this is happening on both driver releases from April, March, and also last October. Would my issue be solved with the 60hz panel?

 

I believe someone stated it before, but it is the 120hz panel and our inability to adjust the brightness. If I fool around with the brightness level through the display options, it immediately goes completely dim/black. I can get it to come back when I scroll through the display outputs (mirror screen and etc).

Something is causing it to go completely dim upon restarting the computer but I haven't been able to narrow it down yet. I have not installed j95 driver mods but I have a feeling even those drivers will suffer from this issue. I bet if I switch back to the original 60hz panel, it will eliminate the problem. So the question is, when will we be able to get brightness controls for this panel?

@shadejedi Ask your reseller if you can switch panels. Those with the 60hz panel don't seem to have this problem.

 

I have 120Hz panel and I am not experiencing the black screen problems with W7 or W10. I do not have brightness controls, but the slider does nothing. Although I leave my display panels on 100% brightness at all times and lack of brightness control is of no consequence to me, I would like it to work because it kind of bugs me knowing it is broken whenever I think about it.

@j95 uses desktop drivers and removes a bunch of useless garbage that adds no value. As a result, there are many registry keys that are eliminated along with the worthless dross. Perhaps this is why I have no black screen issues. I use @j95 driver mods exclusively. Otherwise, I have no explanation for my apparent absence of these problems.

Edit: At the end of the day, my gut feeling is the reason for the issues is NVIDIA greed and incompetence. I suspect that it probably has something to do with them going to great lengths to make sure that G-Stink can't work for anyone by accident if they haven't paid the ransom fee for it. Since these machines are G-Stink ready with the default 60Hz panel, I suspect their cancer drivers are "fighting" the 120Hz aftermarket upgrade to ensure their precious G-Stink features remain non-functional. God forbid that someone might get something for nothing, even though they've already paid for it... after all it's not a G-Nazi approved panel. Life was simpler and most things worked better before they invented all of these silly cash-for-trash gimmicks.

 

Then it could very well be the drivers.

 

It is because of Windows forcing us to update our Nvidia drivers. Even if you turn off MS updates, it will still update your nvidia through Windows for some reason that I do not know. I noticed it was Nvidia because when I go system restore, it shows Nvidia being the affected programs. I have the 120hz and encountered that problem few days ago. This is what I did courtesy of @Papusan linking me the ways to go through it and found a temporary fix for it.

https://www.howtogeek.com/263851/ho...from-automatically-updating-specific-drivers/

The guide will show you how to stop updating a specific driver. I think it needs Windows pro though.

All the steps I did below are in safe mode and I created a restore point before and after just incase of mishandling:

1. Uninstall Nvidia using DDU
2. Install Nvidia
3. Follow the guide in the link

 

Here is a link to @j95 profile from where anyone could go grab get from his thread the latest drivers. If you like it and find it useful please don't forget to donate and say thanks to him.
https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/profile/878-j95/

@Mr. Fox I printed your overclocking refrence sheet and Laminated it/plastic wrap it and kept it in my bag, it will be always there for reference,.

I used the new benchmark tool for Final Fantasy XIV: Stormblood on 4K Maximum, scored 6612 points (Very High Performance Result) with max temps on GPU is 81 and CPU is 79, AVG for CPU was 66 and GPU 73.

I forgot to take a screen shot but I will do it again.

You can download the benchmark tool here:
http://na.finalfantasyxiv.com/benchmark/

 

Don' forget its something called Donations. Although it's free, support those who trying make things easier for you all. Grab is a awful word

 

I put credit when it's due time, I'm still yet to try or download his drivers, I just wanted to point it out for people who were looking for it. Post is edited.

 

Oh neat! I do not play Final Fantasy games (as I do not care much for the genre) but I do like their benchmarks.

 

Well I don't know also if you like space sims, I'm a dedicated Star Citizen player/backer, in a matter of fact I met the creator of Star Citizen Chris Roberts and his brother Erin Roberts in their Manchester studio Foundry 42UK. You should try it by End of June this year, it will blow your mind away.
Here is their latest video on how far they have gone into making Star Citizen:

 

Not so much. I am an old school gamer and it is very rare that I enjoy anything that is not a first-person shooter. I am just weird that way. There are few exceptions (Max Payne and Mortal Kombat franchises are some of the rare exceptions). RPG and MMORPG, strategy, open world third-person exploration games (GTA and Skyrim, Fallout, etc.) and the like generally bore me and I lose interest in playing very quickly.

The only games I really enjoy greatly are the non-stop, pulse-pounding single-player campaign action titles that go light on storyline.

 

It is a driver issue. Using DDU and installing an older driver on my friend's laptop fixed the issue.

Any idea when Eurocom will be releasing a BIOS update to fix the brightness issue?

@Eurocom Support

 

Final Fantasy Tactics was my favorite FF back in the day

 

Hey Phoenix, I flashed your ISO on wife's laptop and the first thing that popped up was Cortana's wonderful voice, as well as bunch of options asking if I want to give away my rights and privacy. Just want to make sure everything is still gravy, I assume the actual services are removed right?

 

AIDA64 CPU Stress



I will stress more as soon as I get this black screen problem solved. It is randomly going black now....

 

That is correct. That's just a video during setup to entertain Windows 10 fanboys and not really Cortana. The digi-slut is truly dead when you use the toolkit to exorcise her filthy witch butt into oblivion.

 

I tried the hotfix 381.78 drivers that are supposedly designed to solve the issue but these drivers give me the same problem.

 

Still haven't tried the @j95 driver mods yet? There has to be a reason I am not having the problem, and that would be the most obvious explanation. I'm also not using the latest cancerware from the Green Goblin even though Brother j95 has the latest and greatest versions available.

Overall, I get a much better experience with older drivers even though the exact opposite should be true. The goons at NGREEDIA don't know when to quit farting around with a good thing and it seems like more than half the time all they succeed at is buggering up their drivers. I tend to find a good one and park on it until something better surfaces, even if that takes a long time.

 

@Mr. Fox , I noticed from your previous picture of IHS installation that you used some yellow tape around the CPU socket. May I ask what you are using there?

 

Certainly, bro. That is Kapton tape. Depending on what photos you looked at, you can see that I also have it on the GPU on the PCB surrounding the die.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZFQNT6

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

Kapton is a polyimide film developed by DuPont in the late 1960s that remains stable across a wide range of temperatures, from −269 to +400 °C (−452 to 752 °F; 4–673 K). Kapton is used in, among other things, flexible printed circuits (flexible electronics) and thermal blankets used on spacecraft, satellites, and various space instruments.

 

Ah, I thought you were using gold foil or something initially... Were you using it during the thermal paste application to keep things clean or do you actually leave it like that??

 

I actually leave it there in case some of the liquid metal thermal paste drips off the side of the CPU. Don't want that stuff getting on anything to cause a short. It is also super thin but super strong. It is so thin, in fact, I think you could even put it on top of the edge of the IHS and likely have no impediment with contact between the IHS and heat sink with most thermal pastes. While I do not use liquid metal on the GPU, the surface mounted components around the GPU die need to be protected no matter what kind of thermal paste you use. It makes a nice non-conductive barrier for that. Electrical tape will also work well for that, but the Kapton tape is much thinner and cleaner.

 

Love it, performs amazingly. Temps are great, I even have my fan profile set to be on quieter settings because I game on my couch with my wife next to me haha. ( I keep the laptop on a cooling pad on my lap, but the cooling pad is never on, just keeps the vents propped up).
Only downfall is the Nvidia filth that locks me out from truly overclocking the 1070.

 

Brilliant, I'd never heard of Kapton tape, seems perfect for the job, if I ever delid my CPU and use liquid metal inside the IHS then I think I'll use that to cover the area surrounding the core chip - it would be good for that right?

 

I would not recommend doing that. You only need to cover the gold metal circles under the IHS. Liquid metal on the silicon PCB does not hurt anything. A tiny piece of Kapton tape, just barely large enough to cover them is all you need. Or, you can use a thin layer or RTV silicon or a thin application of clear fingernail polish only large enough to cover them, or even Scotch tape. Kapton would be the best choice, but there is no point in covering the entire PCB and doing so would lift the IHS off the die if it gets between the part of the IHS that rests on the PCB. If you get a Bitspower IHS, you don't need to do anything. There is a small pocket carved away from those contacts and the rest of the aftermarket IHS rests on the entire surface of the PCB to provide extra support. It's very awesome how they made it.