*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

You never know what the future holds bro! Just continue pushing the limits.

 

Just looking at it seems bad enough. It looks rather pathetic without any knowledge of whether or not it would or could work correctly. Everything about it has an abnormally wimpy appearance. Nothing at all like the high quality Alienware parts that you and I were accustomed to seeing back in the day. It seems more like something I would expect to see in an extra thin XPS Ultrabook with a very low powered anemic CPU like my wife's XPS 15.

 

XPS is Mr. Azor's other baby. He is Vice President for both brands Fox. Just compare the wimpy heatsink!! High end cooling!! Saved two screws on the XPS vs the normal 8. And one less screws than the Alienware's seven screws TRIPOD!! Make more cash with less bruh!! Yeah, backwards into the future. May I see 5 next time?

 

Welcome to Olympus. Let all lesser machines grovel in humility before us!

 

It's been about 30 years since I used an EPROM burner, so someone please update my knowledge. Is it possible nowadays for the EPROM to actually block *reading* its data out, so it can be reflashed with the original data in the event of a bricking? Or is it true that, as in my last EPROM burning days, once you have the programmer and the chip connected, the chip is as helpless as a bug on a pin?

 

If anyone gets an IGZO 4K working with this machine, please post here. I'd be interested in that as a long-term upgrade path (I have the stock 4K screen now, and it's good after color calibration, but those IGZO panels are even better). I do a fair amount of photo and video editing, so it might be worth it some day. In any case, information is power, so if it's possible I'd like to know.

 

Does anyone think the AUO B156HAN04.2 (AUO42ED) 120hz IPS G-sync panel from the ASUS Zephurus would be compatible? I'd imagine they should be available second hand soon

Could only find results for the AUO B156HAN04.4 and .1 60hz, and they has 30 pin edp

 

I tote mine around all the time, from office to office and also on business trips. It's my daily driver for work. I'd say it's easily durable enough for that sort of duty. One caveat, which I learned the hard way on one of my trips, is that you need to watch out not to cover its vents when working in unusual mobile positions. Mine went into thermal shutdown one day, and when I realized what I'd done I felt silly. I was working at a standing position in a data center, and for ease of access I had let the front of the laptop dangle a bit off of the surface. It didn't occur to me that I was therefore bypassing the rubber feet on the front of the laptop, placing the bottom hard against the surface and blocking the vent holes. No harm done, but I did have to reboot. Oops!

The screen, as is typical on most modern laptops, is thin enough that you can flex it with your hands, but it doesn't flex by itself. The chassis is quite durable, though.

 

There are some circumstances where in-line flashing is blocked by a resistor on the PCB, but the BIOS and vBIOS on this machine is fully readable and writable with the programmer. You need to use a 1.8V adapter for the vBIOS programming. If you save your firmware from the BIOS and vBIOS, using the programmer, in the event of a brick you can use the programmer to flash back the original firmware.

 

what heatsink is that for ?

I've never seen a tripod heatsink attachment like this before, I mean if it's for the PCH okay, thats fine, but a GPU or CPU - LOL

 

well, your describing EPROM versus EEPROM... no ?

 

You should read more about the TRIPOD WORLD!!

I'm sure you are familiar with the Alienware brand, Woodz

The Tripod heatsink is the main ingredient in all latest AWbook's!! Birth late 2016!! AWbook 13 up to Dellienware's new flagship Aw 17R4.

 

Sort of, but technically not. Some EEPROM cannot be in-line programmed due to interference on the motherboard. In those cases the chip is still EEPROM, but it has to be de-soldered to program it. That's only because of the interference present only when it soldered to the motherboard. I think the only way to find out is to try it. Thankfully, the 16L13 and the P870 system BIOS and vBIOS chips can be programmed with in-line flashing. No soldering is required. Be sure to use a 1.8V adapter for the vBIOS to avoid frying the chip on the GPU with excessive voltage.

 

Alienware ? Who pays attention that stuff anymore... I saw a BGA lineup coming out a few years back. Never looked back again. All I have are memories of flagships like M18X-R2 /AW18 and M17X-R4 and AW17 and M15X.

 

Does any one have the vbios for the 1080 for higher TDP


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Hello!

I'm new to the custom laptop world, currently seriously considering building my own laptop from a whitebook and parts. I came here because it's literally the only details on a barebones brand I could find, though I only spent an hour or two on looking so I probably missed some.

I have some questions, if there's anyone willing to answer?

First - what are the options on the table? Again, this seems to be the only laptop whitebook I can find - what's the competition like? Even if I end up choosing the MSI in the end I'd like to make an informed choice. (Especially since it's not clear that we can get a version of the BIOS compatible with Kaby Lake...)

Second - I notice that the 16L13 boasts desktop CPU support, but I'm more than a little concerned about heat. Someone who's owned one of these - could you tell me how hot it gets running on your lap, assuming casual use? I don't mind breaking out the cooler pads for the gaming and rendering if necessary. Also, how hard would it be to swap in a desktop-standard liquid cooling setup? (Total newb here, so I don't really have a good sense for what's difficult yet.)

Lastly - Where can you actually buy it? Eurocom only seems to sell the post-customized version - I really want the "blank" version with just the chassis/monitor/motherboard and maybe a CPU attached. MSI's website doesn't seem to advertise their whitebooks at all, too.

 

Depending on how you build it, this laptop can either be really hot or have manageable temps. The 7700K needs to be delidded to keep temps down or you can go with the 6700K delidded with slightly better temps. The GTX 1080 can get pretty hot also. Your temps will be easier managed with the 1070. My build is the 7700K/1080 and I wouldn't trade it for anything. I'm really strict with my own temperature guidelines. I never run my system above 80 C. So it definitely is manageable. I never run this laptop directly on my lap either though. I don't think you are going to be able to do too many desktop cooling tricks on this guy. Get creative and prove me wrong. What seems to help the most is delidding, proper application of a high quality TIM, cutting holes in the bottom panel beneath the cpu and gpu, and a decent cooling pad. This is only really necessary when running very demanding applications. You can max the internal fans for most other things and forget about your temperatures.

Other things to consider. This is the only 15 inch book that will run the GTX 1080. It runs at 150 watts with the standard vBIOS. HID offers a fix for that and for many of the other restrictions in the BIOS. A few other retailers do as well. In my opinion, this option will greatly extend what you'll get from this book.

Hope this helps. Good luck. You're looking in the right place so you're off to a great start.

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You can find them on ebay as a barebone. But it is much cheaper to get it with the GPU than to buy them separate.
Clevo is another custom laptop brand also.

 

You can get the chassis on ebay

@woodzstack is one of the only people to sell new MXM video cards. Otherwise you have to source a MXM video card from MSI or 2nd hand for a big markup.

I think @woodzstack and most everyone here would agree, that buying the system pre-built from him, HID evolution, or Eurocom will be a much less expensive choice.

Most importantly, all 3 of those re-sellers offer unlocked BIOS (Eurocom charges for it though) , which would otherwise be impossible without a hardware flashing kit and some advanced know how.

 

Hey guys. It's been a while since I've checked in on this forum. I tried searching but there are 700+ pages atm, but is it possible to overclock the standard 60Hz g-sync 1080p display (Eurocom model)? Is there any word on if/when the 120Hz 1080p display will get g-sync certification/compatibility?

Another legit question. Is this scenario normal? I tried running Battlefield 1 unplugged on battery power and was only able to hold 12 fps. I plug the power supply back in and boom right back to capped at 60fps. Is there a way to hold max performance while on battery power? (I tried downloading Geforce experience but it no longer has the battery saver options to be toggled on/off)

Thanks guys!

 

Another mini question to add to the discussion:

Does any undervolt in throttlestop remain in place after a shutdown/reboot. Do you have to open throttlestop after rebooting to re-apply the undervolt? I'm using adaptive voltage so I can't rely on whatever static voltage I see at startup.

 

No, at least in theory it should always remain. However sleep and hibernate have been reported to mess with it sometimes. And unexpected shutdown will reset it.

You can follow the guide in my signature to set XTU to undervolt and never have to open it or worry about ever.

 

I woud recommend you stick with ThrottleStop. It's a great program. You do have to set it up on Windows task scheduler to start on boot up to have your settings applied automatically. Otherwise, your settings aren't applied until you start up ThrottleStop.

There is a ThrottleStop thread on this forum which is actually maintained by the incredible individual who wrote the program. He has a how-to for all the things you should truly need to get the program set up correctly.

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you can overclock the 60hertz panel but max it goes is 3-4 more hertz so not really much benefit. im not sure about 120hertz display.
it's normal for any gaming laptop to get worse performance without power, coz the max the battery can give is 85watt(i think). so with battery the processor and gpu runs at much lower frequency hence low fps. you cant do much to improve the performance unless you drop the graphic settings of the game.

 

Hm. Well, I'm not entirely opposed to saving myself some work. @woodzstack - How much would, say, the motherboard with an i7-7700 and 1080 pre-installed run me?

 

Thank you. I just wanted to confirm that this was working as intended.

 

Gaming on battery is a no-go on just about any system with full-powered discrete graphics. The battery cannot handle the power demands of a discrete GPU under 3D rendering load. If you try to force it, all you will do is (potentially) damage the battery and you will otherwise get nowhere fast with having a nice gaming experience on battery power, so let it work normally, as it is designed to, when running on battery power and only do demanding games on AC power. (You can play most of the cheap java, browser-based and standard Windows arcade, cards and puzzle games on battery power, but that about it.)

 

Thank you. BTW, I was thinking about trying to get the unlocked Tornado F5 bios. Are there any immediate benefits considering I have a non-k version 6700(would I be able to overclock)? Also, also would you happen to know how I could get it without having to send my system back in to Eurocom?

Sincerely,

Terrell J. Cheeks

 

There are advantages to an unlocked BIOS other than overclocking, so it's definitely worth having. In fact, overclocking is possible without it if you have an unlocked CPU. The advantages to having it go way beyond overclocking. You'll have better control over UEFI/Legacy, SATA and Boot options, CPU power and voltage, memory controls, Thunderbolt controls, and other features. And, if you get a 6700K or 7700K later on you will be ready for overclocking.

Please contact @Eurocom Support directly about how to get it. They may be able to remote flash it rather than having you pay shipping both ways to have it applied.

 

don;t run this on your lap with a 5.0Ghz OC.
Just saying... anyways you found me on discord, I have gone through dozens of these F5's - feel free to ask me anything you like.
If your trying to make one laptop more rugged, and brace it for prolonged abuse, this would be a great laptop to do it too, as I suggested we could mod the chassis with various metal epoxy's and braces, and use locktite on the screws/bolts or even change them for higher grade steel ones.
like steel hex bolts like this for example :


though maybe M3 is not the perfect size, for the current fit, I buy these for various projects for simpits and such.

 

Yeah i was pretty much saying exactly that earlier on discord.

 

Thanks for the info. I hope we never reach the point where even a hardware EPROM programmer is blocked.

 

We are already there. And soon people will realize that.

 

Hi guy!
i'm check on website, the option 120Hz AUO Screen not support with Gsync.
my Tornaldo use 60Hz LP156WF6-SPB1, can i replace with orther 120Hz support with Gsync ?

 

I haven't seen a 15 inch 120 Hz panel that supports Gsync by Nvidia offered for this book.

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Can anyone confirm that the following panel is compatible with this laptop (Eurocom Tornado F5) ? Panelook says that it has a 40 pin eDP connector like my Samsung LTN156FL02-L01. The panel that i'm looking for is the following: SHARP LQ156D1JW04 .

Thank you in advance.

 

@Phoenix, I need some windows tweaking help, if you don't mind later.

 

I don't know, but the dimensions are different

Samasung: 359.5 × 223.8 × 3 (H×V×D)

Sharp: 367.98(H)×218.31(V) ×3.14(D) mm

http://www.panelook.com/LTN156FL02-L01_Samsung_15.6_LCM_overview_23360.html

The extra 8mm in height could be a concern. You may be able to mod the bezel area though

 

PM Sent

 

Thank you, brother.

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I got it so we will find out soon if this is the king of non-metal paste or not. Marketing material on the package sounds impressive, but it may not be accurate. So, we shall see. Hopefully, it's all true and they are not full of crap.

Spoiler: Phobya NanoGrease Extreme

 

So, three things:

If I buy a new copy of windows 10 Pro and install over the old one, will it reset my location?

Can you obtain all the various utilities that the F5 is shipped with from Eurocom?

Does anyone have a recommend laptop sleeve for their F5? I'm kinda worried about it being damaged in travel.

 

Here http://www.eurocom.com/ec/drivers(384)TornadoF5
The KLM and SCM and other MSI bloatware is in the 'Hotkey' download.

Any decent neoprene sleeve should offer nice protection. They are dirt cheap and easy to find for 15-inch laptops.

You should be able to do that without an OS reinstall. Better yet, disable (or remove) the geolocation tools completely. If you have Windows OS X Home, then by all means go Pro. Home sucks worse than Pro does. If you already have Pro, no need to buy it again. Don't waste your money. It should automatically activate for you, and you should already have a Pro product key if that is what came preinstalled on your system.

If you don't have Pro, you can get it here for under $30 https://www.kinguin.net/category/19429/windows-10-professional-oem-key/ Or, even better, get Windows 7 Pro (available same place) and/or dual boot it.

If you are going to reinstall, do it right. This video will show you how. Also see info in the description.

 

show us the cable, it should be 30/40 pins but I forget if it's IPEX or what not.

Anyone helping you ?

Did you purchase yet ? If so who is your seller ?

 

fortunately this "BLOATWARE" is actually really good and useful and looks good too.

 

Yeah, nothing wrong with how it looks, and it does serve a purpose. I know some people use it and have a use for it. It can be installed and disabled from starting with Windows. (That's how I do it.) Then you can launch it only if and when you actually have a reason to. I use the fan button for max fans and the KB light button more than I use the software. After I launch KLM and change the keyboard to all white, I never need to launch it again. If the keyboard lighting were white by default I would never need to have KLM installed because I never want the keyboard to be a different color.

I prefer to not have most any software running in the background and starting up during Windows logon. But, I think the same thing about almost all software. Hardly anything needs to start with Windows automatically. I call everything that starts with Windows automatically without my input bloatware. If I haven't manually configured it myself to automatically start with Windows, to me it's bloatware. Clevo Control Center is the functional equivalent and I consider it to be bloatware as well. The nicer thing about Clevo Control Center is that it's only one app versus multiple apps that have to be installed and managed individually like the MSI stuff.

 

Ok how do you disconnect the battery safely? Lol I am always pulling it from the cable because there is so little space and the black tape in there.


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Damn, I'm so unlucky :'( !
Thank you!

 

Great. Haven't seen much people have tried this thermal paste. Will you test it on the graphics in your Msi? If so, what other paste has been tried on the graphics? For the comparison numbers sake. What do you think about the softness/viscosity of this paste?

 

I have not applied it yet. I will likely test this weekend. It has almost new Kryonaut on it now, so I will do a temp comparison of GPU with Heaven Benchmark. Besides Kryonaut, I have used IC Diamond, Gelid GC Extreme and CoolerMaster Master Gel Maker pastes and see no meaningful difference in GPU temperatures using those pastes. Kryonaut might be a tiny bit better, but not more than 1 or 2°C difference compared to those others mentioned. I will also validate this on the DM3 because I think the MSI heat sink reaches a cooling capacity limit or saturation point so that it makes minimal difference which paste is used as long as the paste is good enough to effectively move the heat from the GPU to the heat sink.