*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

As a workaround, if your headphones are sufficiently high-impedance you may be able to use the line out jack (the grey one, second from the rear) instead. That is working for me, although the impedance mismatch slightly degrades the sound quality.

 

Yeah, but how many is 32-bit Windows users?

 

Fortunately it was only the 32 bit version that was infected, and not the 64 bit version I use and recommend, and I missed that infected version completely. I've updated to the current 5.34 64 bit edition.

Here is the apology, non-technical and technical explanation by Piriform:

Security Notification for CCleaner v5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud v1.07.3191 for 32-bit Windows users
https://www.piriform.com/news/blog/...eaner-cloud-v1073191-for-32-bit-windows-users

"PAUL YUNG - VP, Products

Dear CCleaner customers, users and supporters,

We would like to apologize for a security incident that we have recently found in CCleaner version 5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud version 1.07.3191. A suspicious activity was identified on September 12th, 2017, where we saw an unknown IP address receiving data from software found in version 5.33.6162 of CCleaner, and CCleaner Cloud version 1.07.3191, on 32-bit Windows systems. Based on further analysis, we found that the 5.33.6162 version of CCleaner and the 1.07.3191 version of CCleaner Cloud was illegally modified before it was released to the public, and we started an investigation process.

We also immediately contacted law enforcement units and worked with them on resolving the issue. Before delving into the technical details, let me say that the threat has now been resolved in the sense that the rogue server is down, other potential servers are out of the control of the attacker, and we’re moving all existing CCleaner v5.33.6162 users to the latest version. Users of CCleaner Cloud version 1.07.3191 have received an automatic update.

In other words, to the best of our knowledge, we were able to disarm the threat before it was able to do any harm."

Further technical info is included, worth checking out...

"Again, we would like to apologize for any inconvenience this incident could have caused to our clients; we are taking detailed steps internally so that this does not happen again, and to ensure your security while using any of our Piriform products. Users of our cloud version have received an automated update.

For all other users, if you have not already done so, we encourage you to update your CCleaner software to version 5.34 or higher, the latest version is available for download here. "

 

Guys, just a normal question here, when you bought your F5 or the 16L-G-1080, did it replace your desktop rig?

 

Sort of. I use *only* the 16L-G-1080 for work (except for the rare occasions when I still need my Mac for OSX-specific purposes). This laptop is actually much more powerful than my tower gaming rig, but I still use the tower rig sometimes because it's permanently connected to a large-screen TV, and my wife and I game together on that setup.

If the underlying question is, "Is this machine a true desktop replacement?", I would say the answer is emphatically "yes" unless you need more than 4 CPU cores or you need SLI GPU.

 

Laptops have been my go-to computers for more than half a decade. A MacBook Pro was my daily driver for more than four years. Only within the last 18 months or so have I gotten back into high-performance Windows-based machines. The power and portability afforded by computers like the 16L13 are rather remarkable, so much so, that for me, I don't think I could ever go back to a traditional desktop PC. The only thing I'm left wanting is for someone to design a slimline 330W AC adapter for these systems.

 

Well you and me in the same ball park here, I don't have a Mac, but my gaming tower rig is head to head with my EVOC machine except in storage and RAM where the EVOC really shines, also the custom Bios with the 7700K wherein my rig has a 4790K and can't OC as much with my 7700K in the evoc.

I basically now let my best friend from high school have my tower to game on it until he can afford to buy his own due to financial stress he is going through. The rig is water cooled and should be abused as much as possible, I barely touch it for more than 9 days a month compared to my EVOC which is now my daily use. EVOC is used also for work.

 

You know, great minds think alike!

 

I would if I felt more comfortable using a laptop as my primary/main rig but I don't. I used my old AW17 for years as my primary PC as it used to be about equal to or more powerful than my desktop and let my friends borrow my desktop or something if they needed to. After a few months it would just start to get progressively hotter all the time, I'd redo the paste and it would run at something I was comfortable with for a while but I wasn't too keen on stressing my main primary machine and having it run at 80 to 90 degrees constantly during long gaming sessions, sometimes 5+ hours at once on a weekend or something, I just did not feel comfortable that it would last me as long as I would want it to if I treated it that way. I also ran out of room on my desk to be able to have multiple monitors and a laptop with a cooling pad.

I am kind of in the same situation now, my laptop is quite a bit more powerful than my desktop, but my desktop is still a beast by all means and handles anything I throw at it and try to play. I'd be too afraid to use my laptop as my only/primary computer I think just due to temps and the 15" screen would be a little too small for me to use as a second monitor and I don't have room for 2 monitors plus the laptop on my desk. I'd also prefer to not be disconnecting and hooking the machine up every night I get home from work, granted I could get a TB3 dock or something and have my monitors plugged into it and only have to swap over power and the TB3 cable, since I use this for work I kind of prefer to keep it in my backpack and use it as my mobile power house when I need it and keep my desktop hooked up all the time for when I am at home doing stuff.

The thought is always in the back of my mind however since I spent so much money on this machine I feel like I should really be getting more use out of it, so maybe I will go back to using a laptop again and take my cooling pad back from my brother but for now I don't really need to change anything up.

 

I haven't owned a desktop since Windows XP SP2.

 

I've been having a fan issue for a few days now, and wanted to see if anyone else has the same thing. My machine seems to be running perfectly, but the fan on the right side frequently spins up to near-max RPM for just about 5 seconds at a time, then spins back down to almost a stop, then repeats this for a long time. Eventually, it will stop doing so and return to normal.

Monitoring temps on CPU, GPU, and even individual CPU cores using HWinfo64, I see nothing over 41C, which usually leaves my fans basically quiet.

I've done a power-cycle on the machine a couple of times, but no joy. Any ideas?

 

Hey there is a docking system that uses the USB C thunderbolt 3 port and it has HDMI and USB ports, makes it a breeze to move the laptop from office to home and vise versa.

 

Can't say why you haven't since then, was there a machine with a CPU powerful like the desktop ones back then?

 

No particular reason. Wan't into gaming too much then, and PC was average at best. Only played a couple of RTS games then like Starcraft, AoE, CIV

Was easy to migrate to above average laptop. Some Sony Vaio with very nice screen (random assortment of #'s and letters I can't remember).

First gaming machine was an Alienware m17x R1 with 280m Intel Quad QX9300. Never cared to play current AAA tiles (even now unless on big steam sale) as I'd rather pay 1/4 price 2 years later.

 

[email protected]

 

I have one of those, and it works nicely.

 

Will do, but I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone said, "Well, you dummy, you need to change ___ setting as all the smart people already know how to do. Duh!!!"

EDIT: Ticket submitted via HID Evolution support web page.

 

I think offset 98 controls the fans. I forgot. Look up one of my older posts.

 

Thanks, but I'm not sure of the context of the word "offset" here. Are you talking about a memory address offset in CMOS, or something else?

 

RW Everything, EC RAM.
Pretty sure the exact same structure is used on the GT73VR and the 16L1, just different values. MSI is lazy, or maybe efficient...recycling assets saves money.

 

My first proper gaming rig was a laptop, the Alienware M17XR2, before that I used to play on Desktop rig with an Nvidia IGP video card, that was around 2000-2006 and mostly played ragnarok online....when started my first job I bought a 1500$ HP laptop and it was good for gaming, used to play Final Fantasy 11 MMORPG but then came in the monster M17XR2 and I do remember meeting @Mr.Fox here in NBR forum for the first time, I think it was in 2011 if my memory serves me right. Had that unlocked bios for 5% CPU OC *I think the CPU was an 820qm or something.

With my current games library I'm now in the same boat, rather wait to buy it later, so many unfinished titles, some are untouched....

 

Yeah it is great, makes it a breeze!

 

Assuming that the Thunderbolt 3 port is connected to the GPU, could you use a dock that has DisplayPort output and still be able to take advantage of G-Sync on a compatible external monitor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ah, thanks. I just downloaded RW Everything now, and looked at the EC RAM. So, a hex editor for system parameter tables and NVRAM -- cool! Hex editors are intuitive to me because I originally learned to program in hand-assembled binary (this was back in the 1970s, so don't laugh!). So figuring out how to use RWE's user interface -- no problem.

That being said, I see where offset 0x95 contains 0x03 as its current value, but is there somewhere I can find a table of what the bits in that register do? I don't know what the value *should* be. Alternatively, could someone who is not having this fan issue please tell me what their value is for EC offset 0x95?

 

where?
sorry but I never hacked at this level

 

Offset 98 should be the fan, not 95.
If it's not, though, please be careful changing values in other offsets. You might wind up doing something bizarre like turning off the AC adapter.

 

The offset is a hexadecimal number. The leftmost column, with numbers 00, 10, 20 and so on, represents the first digit, which takes you to the correct row. Then you select the column based on the second digit (0, 1, 2....8, 9, a, b, ...f) of the number.

So for 0x98 offset, look in row 90 and column 08. Your example has a value of 0x06 in that field. (In case you're not familiar with the notation "0x" is a prefix meaning "hexadecimal number follows" in many programming languages.)

 

Uhhh....yeah. The other place to NOT MESS AROUND is in that "write disk (raw)" area. Eeeeouch! As we say in the Linux/UNIX world, "Your gun, your bullet, your foot, your choice."

My data value at offset 0x98 is 0x06, same as @aaronne, unfortunately. So much for an easy fix.

 

Press the cooler boost button and see if that value changes. Then you know it's safe to mess with it.

 

There exists a good alternative already; the HP Firebird's 350W adapter is less than half the size of the 330W Delta ( 1.03 vs 2.27 L).

Problem is finding one; these were (and are) very popular with SFF-builders. Did find one HP parts seller that listed it (under different part nrs.), but iirc they no longer had a stock or asked something like $200 shipping. Gave up in the end and switched to 2x240W Dells instead, which is about the same size as the Firebird's or even a bit smaller. That does require using the AC-100 or AC-200 splitter in order for them to balance the load evenly.

 

This thread is going to hit 1,000 pages eventually. Insane.

 

Good thought! I did so, and the value goes reliably between 06 with cooler boost off, and 86 with cooler boost on.

Setting the MSB to 1 (that is, hex values of 0x80 through 0xff) seems to force fan max, but as far as I can tell values with MSB of 0 (that is, hex values of 0x00 through 0x7f) don't seem to help the symptoms.

 

Totally! Like we almost need a thread that's a guide to this thread. I wonder how many words this thread would be? Maybe we wrote a book!

 

If there is other software that is used to control the fan curves, see if you can use that and then check in RWE what changes. I dont know if the 16L1 has some program like that or not, but if something writes to the EC to set a lower constant fan speed, that may help. I don't even use dragon center on my Gt73VR so I don't know if the value next to it controls curves or not. And frankly I'm afraid to check...

I don't know how the automatic settings work at all. Whether that's controlled by the Bios or not. Sorry.

 

Oddly speaking, there are guides created from content published here in this thread, so in a way your dead on !

 

I haven't used a desktop in.. wow.. 11 years? Hard to remember exactly.

 

I think very well that desktops would be gone as technology advances rapidly.

 

nah, Dekstops will always be here to stay and have things portables will not have IMO.

However, the mobile world is looking increasingly more promising. I bet within the next 20 years people start wearing more and more computer tech and making it part of thier body in some fashion or another.

I for one, look forward to becoming a house pet to a computer AI.... don't tell Elon Musk, who is against us becoming "house cats", he'd be ashamed cause we're both canadians.

 

I've checked my systems, even though I didn't have the 5.33 version 32 bit installer that was infected, and didn't find any registry traces.

CCleaner Command and Control Causes Concern
http://blog.talosintelligence.com/2017/09/ccleaner-c2-concern.html

Below are indicators of compromise associated with this attack.

Spoiler: Details...

Installer on the CC: dc9b5e8aa6ec86db8af0a7aa897ca61db3e5f3d2e0942e319074db1aaccfdc83 (GeeSetup_x86.dll)

64-bit trojanized binary: 128aca58be325174f0220bd7ca6030e4e206b4378796e82da460055733bb6f4f (EFACli64.dll)

32-bit trojanized binary: 07fb252d2e853a9b1b32f30ede411f2efbb9f01e4a7782db5eacf3f55cf34902 (TSMSISrv.dll)

DLL in registry: f0d1f88c59a005312faad902528d60acbf9cd5a7b36093db8ca811f763e1292a

Registry Keys:
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WbemPerf\001
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WbemPerf\002
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WbemPerf\003
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WbemPerf\004
HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\WbemPerf\HBP

Stage 2 Payload (SHA256):

dc9b5e8aa6ec86db8af0a7aa897ca61db3e5f3d2e0942e319074db1aaccfdc83

CCleaner Malware Infects Big Tech Companies With Second Backdoor
Wednesday, September 20, 2017 Mohit Kumar
http://thehackernews.com/2017/09/ccleaner-malware-hacking.html
Removing Malicious CCleaner Version would Not Help

Spoiler: Details

"Just removing the Avast's software application from the infected machines would not be enough to get rid of the CCleaner second stage malware payload from their network, with the attackers' still-active C2 server.

So, affected companies that have had their computers infected with the malicious version of CCleaner are strongly recommended to fully restore their systems from backup versions before the installation of the tainted security program.
"These findings also support and reinforce our previous recommendation that those impacted by this supply chain attack should not simply remove the affected version of CCleaner or update to the latest version, but should restore from backups or reimage systems to ensure that they completely remove not only the backdoored version of CCleaner but also any other malware that may be resident on the system," the researchers say.

For those who are unaware, the Windows 32-bit version of CCleaner v5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud v1.07.3191 were affected by the malware, and affected users should update the software to version 5.34 or higher."

Piriform Notifications

Thursday, September 21, 2017
Update to the CCleaner v5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud v1.07.3191 Security Notification
http://www.piriform.com/news/blog/2...ccleaner-cloud-v1073191-security-notification

Security Notification for CCleaner v5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud v1.07.3191 for 32-bit Windows users
https://forum.piriform.com/index.php?showtopic=48868

Security Notification for CCleaner v5.33.6162 and CCleaner Cloud v1.07.3191 for 32-bit Windows users
http://www.piriform.com/news/blog/2...eaner-cloud-v1073191-for-32-bit-windows-users

CCleaner v5.35
http://www.piriform.com/news/release-announcements/2017/9/20/ccleaner-v535

Avast Notifications

Progress on CCleaner Investigation
https://blog.avast.com/progress-on-ccleaner-investigation

Update to the CCleaner 5.33.6162 Security Incident
https://blog.avast.com/update-to-the-ccleaner-5.33.6162-security-incident
------------------------------------------------

The Talos article is worth reading in detail:

CCleaner Command and Control Causes Concern
http://blog.talosintelligence.com/2017/09/ccleaner-c2-concern.html

Another report on the overall situation:

THE CCLEANER MALWARE FIASCO TARGETED AT LEAST 20 SPECIFIC TECH FIRMS
https://www.wired.com/story/ccleaner-malware-targeted-tech-firms/

"...On Wednesday, researchers at Cisco's Talos security division revealed that they've now analyzed the hackers' "command-and-control" server to which those malicious versions of CCleaner connected.

On that server, they found evidence that the hackers had attempted to filter their collection of backdoored victim machines to find computers inside the networks of 20 tech firms, including Intel, Google, Microsoft, Akamai, Samsung, Sony, VMware, HTC, Linksys, D-Link and Cisco itself.

In about half of those cases, says Talos research manager Craig Williams, the hackers successfully found a machine they'd compromised within the company's network, and used their backdoor to infect it with another piece of malware intended to serve as a deeper foothold, one that Cisco now believes was likely intended for industrial espionage.

"When we found this initially, we knew it had infected a lot of companies," says Williams. "Now we know this was being used as a dragnet to target these 20 companies worldwide...to get footholds in companies that have valuable things to steal, including Cisco unfortunately."

Talos EP 13:A Vast CCleanup, Strutting Your Stuff, and the Ex$ploit Economy Podcast...
http://blog.talosintelligence.com/2017/09/beers-with-talos-ep-13a-vast-ccleanup.html

Earlier Talos post:

CCleanup: A Vast Number of Machines at Risk
http://blog.talosintelligence.com/2017/09/avast-distributes-malware.html

 

That's such a nice adapter, I would love to try and find one instead of using this massive brick. Do you have the part number by any chance that one might be able to try and find something by?

As far as replacing desktops go, does anyone recomend any TB3/USB C docks that can be used for essentially almost everything? I have my Asus 144hz monitor I connect via DP, and I have another HP monitor that I connect to my desktop via DVI, are there any docks that support multiple video outs in one dock and anything with DVI or would I need an adapter to go to hdmi or something else? Thinking about it makes me want to go back to using a laptop as a primary computer at least temporarily until I rebuild my desktop in a new case and or upgrade it but still not 100% sure but since I spent so much money on this beast I know I should be using it more lol. My other concern is just how expensive these docks are, I already invested a lot of money into the computer, ssd etc and then it looks like a lot of TB3 docks are in the 2-300 dollar range . I don't know if I can keep dropping money into the machine right now heh.

 

Problem with a lot of non-OEM-specific USB-C/TB3 docks is that they're designed with the Mac in mind. However, this Cable Matters one claims compatibility with a wide range of Windows machine - it even mentions Sager/Clevo.

Its only dedicated video out is DisplayPort, so you would need a USB-C to DVI or HDMI adapter to connect the second monitor. Even so, it allegedly will support up to two 4K/60Hz screens or a single 5K one. I wish it had at least one more USB-A port (it only has two), but I can get around that with a cheap, passive USB-C adapter. At $180, the dock is pretty cheap, though it looks like it only comes with a 0.5m TB3 cable, so you'd have to plan an additional spend if you need a longer one.

 

Yeah I would definitely need more than 2 USB ports, especially if I am trying to replace my desktop and try to switch back to using a laptop as my primary PC. my Keyboard, mouse, DAC, and microphone are 4 usb ports right there and I feel like I may have another device or 2 plugged in plus needing ports for external drives and flash drives when necessary however those I could always plug into the laptop on a as needed basis. Do these docks have any issues running a DP monitor at 144hz or would that not be an issue. In theory if I could find a dock with 4+ USB ports for all of my devices to stay plugged into permanently, a DP for 144hz and a way to keep my other monitor connected, and a way to cool the system properly for long term use, I may just make the switch back to that if I could just keep my cooling pad on my desk, plop my laptop down into it and plug in the 1 usb for the cooling pad and TB3 in the back for everything else that wouldn't be too bad...

I just ran FS on my desktop and I got a 12.3k compared to my laptops 18k. What's the point of even having/using my desktop anymore. Granted I still prefer them for at home use I think they are little bit more reliable in the long term and have better cooling/water cooling options etc but when I am sitting on this much power it just hurts me to have it sit in my backpack most of the time I am home and not at work.

 

That's my main question, as I have a 144 Hz G-Sync external monitor. I'm hoping someone else would be a guinea pig, but I did fire off an email to Cable Matters asking about it. Their customer service is supposedly pretty good, so I'm hoping to receive a reply in fairly short order.

As far as USB goes, you could always pick up a hub that also includes an HDMI or DVI output so you could effectively kill two birds with one stone. It might not exactly look elegant, but it's a solution nonetheless.

 

I use a Dell Thunderbolt Dock, so I know dell docks are compatible, and they look very good. Minimalist flat black cubes. Audio is very good (usually bad on TB docks). Also 240W

I would suggest the Dell TB16. It is currently awesomely priced at $187 on Wallmart's Webpage. Dell Sells them for $350

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dell-Bus...5035&wl11=online&wl12=486618950&wl13=&veh=sem



It has a dedicated TB cable out of the left side

 

That looks like a pretty nice deal, I like the additional video ports on it and 5 USB ports. I may go with that after doing a little research and verify 144hz will actually function on it.

 

So in regards to this adapter, I found a site that looks like it may have one for sale for ~$190 but I haven't gone through the checkout process to see if they will try to jack up shipping charges. I notice this is a single pin typical HP connection, is there an adapter one would need to convert it to the Clevo/MSI 4 pin style all of these laptops tend to use? Anyone have a link for it by any chance?

If I think about making the move to using my laptop at home I'd love to have the smaller/lighter voodoo PSU to keep in my backpack to carry around with me and leave the big brick 330W at home on my desk.

 

I have one from Cable Matters that looks almost the same as the one you linked, and it works perfectly with this machine. My port complement is different, though: Mine has one GigEthernet,, one USB 3.0 A, one HDMI, and one VGA. I needed the clunky VGA because I sometimes have to do a presentation at a customer site where that's all they support. I have my own 1080p projector but don't always take it along.

 

As it's being sold by Walmart, you should be able to return it to one of their stores if it doesn't work as expected. I'm tempted to try myself, but that would then mean having to deal with a third bulky AC adapter around my work space (laptop, monitor, TB dock).

 

Good searching! Was it some obscure, government-supplier-looking website?

And no, there's no adapters. These are usually rated up to ~150W anyway, so they wouldn't be very safe to use. Soldering and heat-shrink wrapping is the way to go. If you want to keep both adapters then you'd need another 4-pin plug; either pull it from that $50 splitter or this $29 Toshiba Cosmio adapter (thanks to @Aswang for finding that option). Locating the plug singly is analog to asking the moon, as @Mr. Fox can attest to. That 180W Cosmio is perfect though; might recycle it for a different laptop or use it for testing purposes.

When soldering new plugs; use a multimeter and set it to resistance. That way you can find out which pin on the plug or barrel corresponds to the inner or outer wires in the DC-DC cable. These are usually not colour-coded, so you want to be certain you've got the polarity correct.