*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

You would be better off with two sticks of 8 than one stick of 16GB. With one stick the memory runs in single channel mode. It could save you money in addition to having a huge increase in bandwidth going to dual channel mode. If that is the case, see if you can match the stick you already have or maybe @Donald@HIDevolution can sell you one more matching 8GB stick.

 

Just email me what 8GB piece you have, and I will send you a quote to match it if possible.

 

Here is an example of why I said that... notice the difference in read/write/copy speed.

 

is that the 8GB HyperX Impact ? Or the Micron ? Or what ? I might be interested in buying it for a customer who has asked me to look out for decent price on RAM so long as it's relatively trust worthy, new, and I test it before hand etc... if your departing with it, we can take this to PM, otherwise sorry to bring it up - always trying to help people make the most of what they can here and such, so do not mind me

EDIT - nevermind, just saw you had something arranged with Donald from EVOC - totally my bad..was not that far ahead in the thread . Donald from Evoc is a good guy, can't go wrong with them either. Cheers !

 

So not to specifically link someone else's store or anything, but has anyone tried this :
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Skylake-Kaby...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

some guy from Poland I think selling custom IHS all copper.

Bitspower ones seem to be hard to find, and I never could snag one for a 7700K (only 6700K).

Anyways here's picture so you do not think it's click bait, can just see it instead.

What do you think ? Worth trying out and lapping and seeing if it compares well or better than stock IHS ?

(for the record you know I'm gonna try it, and offer it to someone for free when done.)

 

Does anyone know how to disable all of the accelerometer stuff in Windows 10? I don't see a BIOS setting for it.

If I tilt the laptop in any axis more than about 40 degrees it freezes and I have to hard reset. Sometimes it's even less, like if I'm repositioning it on my desk. I only have SSDs so it's no use to me.

 

Hooray! HID Evolution shipped me out a replacement fan under warranty (I paid extra to get overnight shipping, but it was worth it since it's my work machine). I'm up and running for about an hour now with the new fan, and so far all is well. For all my chasing EC and driver issues, it appears to have been a simple case of a bad fan. Props to @Zoltan@HIDevolution for getting the new part ordered quickly.

 

Check if you have tablet mode enabled in the notification center. If so, disable it and see if that fixes it.

 

wait, what ? No one else I have heard from has this issue.

But like @saturnotaku check if your in Tablet mode.

 

Another thought would be to check and see if your SSDs and RAM are fully secured in their slots/bays. Perhaps something is loose or not making good contact, resulting in resets when jostled.

 

There was also that fella earlier (a new user on notebookreview forums) that replied to you saying that he had same identical problem & fan replacement fixed the problem.

EDIT: oh yeah, it was @KamikazeGV

 

So as was pointed out to me previously, it looks like that HP adapter may not be as much of a size difference or improvement over the standard PSU as I would have liked and would require additional work to make it even usable. I have sold some virtual pubg items and came into some extra cash so I will be looking at ordering the Dell docking station to try out I believe once I move the money over to paypal/my bank account. If everything works well once I get it and I keep it and decide to use it and my laptop how I intended I would be looking at a spare PSU for the laptop as well. Can anyone give me any advice if there are any cheaper alternatives or places to buy other than just HID or something? No offense to them or anything I'm just not trying to spend $200 on a power supply if I don't need to if there a other vendors or used ones people recommend. I know the 1080 model is definitely best with a 330W supply, but if I bought the 220W or whatever that has less power, would it still be "good enough" for basic gaming on the go and using the machine for work and just not give it the full power or performance if I was trying to do demanding stuff?

 

Power consumption numbers in gaming with Clevo (6700K - 1080 single and SLI)
1080p Gaming:


3K Ultra-Wide Gaming:


4K Gaming:

 

My experiment with the Dell TB16 was pretty much a total failure. While getting it to work wasn't all that complicated, once everything was up and running, I noticed a number of issues:

1) The USB ports on the dock don't initialize until at least 10-20 seconds after the machine boots up, meaning I can't use my external keyboard to access and manipulate the BIOS. This isn't a huge deal, but it's pretty annoying since my standard 7-port powered USB hub doesn't have this problem.
2) The built-in Ethernet port was giving me slower speeds (30-50 Mb/s) than the built-in Killer card and its WiFi counterpart, which take advantage of my full 125 Mb/s connection.
3) The audio quality on the built-in jacks is terrible, though this is probably more a function of the Realtek drivers than the box itself. I didn't feel like investigating further.
4) This is the biggest problem: While my external G-Sync monitor seemed to work correctly when connected to the mini-DisplayPort output, my GPU was running at least 10-15 degrees hotter than when it was hooked up to the laptop's built-in port. With the monitor connected to the laptop directly, the GPU idles at 40-45 degrees; connected to the dock, it was idling at 50-55 - not acceptable.

I also finally got around to running some stress tests. My CPU was clocked at 4.7 GHz out of the box with a -80 mV undervolt. Under an AIDA64 load, I was seeing a bit of throttling - not much, mostly downclocking to 4.4-4.6, which wouldn't have been a big deal, except that the fans would speed up and slow down around the around the 90 degree threshold, which was more irritating than anything else. I dropped the undervolt to -100 (anything lower results in the machine not booting), then installed MSI Silent Option to adjust the fan curve so they spin up faster and sooner. That seemed to help, bringing temps down to the low-mid 80s under an AIDA64 load. I may also drop the OC down to 4.4-4.5 GHz to lower temperatures further still. I don't do e-peen benchmarking, and I don't think that extra 200-300 MHz will make a difference in gaming.

 

We have 180W, 230W, 330W and a 780W as well as adapters to combine 2 x 300W or 230W if needed.

 

@Papusan Thank you for rep, lol, you just pushed me past 1,000!

 

Damn well that is extremely disappointing to hear. Audio does not concern me too much as I will be sing a USB DAC/Amp to power my headphones (assuming the USB ports worked properly with it) but something like the ports taking that long to initialize is a pretty obnoxious thing to deal with. I know some reviews I read said it was very software dependent. I am assuming that is the time it is taking for the software to load up and start detecting everything? Ethernet is not a huge concern for me at this current time as I have to run off WiFi currently but who knows if in a year or 2 I may move and have the ability to run Ethernet. I may still buy it and test it and see how I like it since I can probably just return it to walmart but that's a little upsetting to hear = \. I just went out today and sold a couple of my rare PUBG items so I could have a chunk of change to spend on various things....now I feel like I rushed into it to try and buy this dock and should have held out and waited and gotten more money and found a better options. I just feel like I need a dock with more USB ports and more video ports than what most of these $300 docks come with...some of them have 2 USB ports and a display port and then rely on TB for video. Back to the drawing board now...

 

To be honest, I could probably have dealt with the first three issues, but the high GPU temps were the deal breaker.

 

Sounds like you got an ebay lemon. or maybe the TB16 has some sort of compatibility issue. I assume you downloaded all the drivers (3... which happen to be USB Extended Host Controller, Ethernet, and Audio)?

http://www.dell.com/support/home/us...t/dell-thunderbolt-dock-tb16/drivers?os=wt64a

I have the smaller Dell WD15, and it has none of those issues. (except for 4, I do not have GSync to test)

I will test to see if I am indeed running hotter, but I doubt it, I Idle at 39C with dock to external 3.5K display. Might be a G-Sync only thing

 

I do not have a Gsync monitor, however I would be running 2 1080p monitors off of it, one @ 144HZ and the temperatures already concern me a little bit so I'd be hesitant to try something that may increase them even more if it was not Gsync related, but again I guess I can always return it to Walmart if it does not do what I need or want it to. But temps are one of my big concerns about switching to using this as my primary PC even at home, so I don't want to make them higher than they already are or idle at.

Complaints 2 and 3 are not too deal breaking to me as they are not currently applicable to me, but potentially could be in the future. 1 and 4 definitely stand out as concerns however.

 

Yes, I remember. I hadn't replied yet because I wanted to wait and see if the fan also fixed the issue for me. When @KamikazeGV suggested contacting MSI, I already had the ticket open with HID Evolution, so I didn't act on the suggestion right away. I wasn't meaning to disregard the post, I just didn't yet have the info to make an intelligent and useful reply. Apologies, no offense intended.

 

Temps on the MXM GPU's inside the F5 ? If you do not mind me asking, what were the temps and videocard, or was this an external solution via thunderbolt 3 etc ?

 

I'm encountering black issues with the monitor after display driver installation. Anyone encounter the issue and have solutions? It works in safe mode and on a 2nd monitor, but the main 120hz remains black on normal startup.

 

many people getting issues like this recently, not sure if it's temps or recent NVidia driver shenanigans

 

That's a shame, thanks for the clarification. It's bizarre it works fine upon installation, but reboot is when the problem occurs (seems the backlight for the laptop monitor is turned off). I thought it'd be a bios or hardware issue. Any driver version that's confirmed working/reliable?

 

wait - not sure if thats a driver issue. That's something I do not know. But someone here I think had similiar issue, but not sure what became of it, in my opinion, i would check cables and put things at defaults and install latest drivers for all hardware, like OSD and hotkeys and chipsets and such too.

 

The temperature of the internal GTX 1080. I was attempting to connect just a Thunderbolt port expansion dock to the computer, then hook up my Ethernet, USB peripherals, and monitor.

 

Yep, tried that, even reinstalled the OS several times. Seems the only driver that seems to max the brightness after much research is 378.92. The newest ones since have issues with brightness controls and the monitor looks nearly pitch back due to the issue (except 385.69, which doesn't recognize the laptop monitor at all), and any attempt to use brightness keyboard shortcuts defaults the backlight brightness to 0. I know 120hz have issues with brightness controls as far as I know, but not being able to turn on the brightness is concerning.

 

maybe there are some tricks we can do to help you lower it's temps.

You could lover it's voltage, or underclock it just slightly enough that voltage is lower and strikes a balance without changing performance really noticeably at all.

Maybe you could add some copper to it, or repaste it, or even try improving the contact with the heatsink and maybe mirror shining it to a perfectly flat surface thus it makes better contact on a molecular level.
There are tricks you can do to the fans too, like overvolt them, either software or hardmodded.
Do you have one of these nice bottom panels that EVOC offers ?

Maybe some thermal pads under the card to make extra contact between the card and chassis to bleed some extra temps too.

I know the pipe connecting to the CPU and GPU can be a pain in the butt, because if both are hot, it's not really effectively doing anything, you could isolate the connection with insulation to an extend and not screw it into the CPU portion and put cardboard or something inbetween them or heck even cut the pipe in half but I do not recommend it.
That said, you could add extra copper to placed in the laptop, just make sure to isolate anything conductive from touching anything electrically sensitive or being too close to the coils or specific components, and like just semi hook some extra pipes up to this.

Maybe a fan or two attached underneath the laptop to a docking station or laptop mount/tray/stand etc.. you know what I mean, right ? Like targus has a cheap one thats decent, aluminium painted black on surface, plastic underneath,m 2 fans, connected+powered via USB, and the platform is angled slightly.

 

Seems like a driver related issues. Have you submitted a bug report with Nvidia?
http://www.nvidia.com/object/driverqualityassurance.html

 

Are you on 1080 Gtx?
On my Tornado F5, the best and stable driver on Win7x64 with no issue seems to be the 382.53.

Here short list of drivers checked in the past with issues encountered:

378.78 no no bright
378.92 no no bright, no watt
381.89 ok no watt
382.33 ok no watt
382.53 ok ok
384.94 ok no watt
385.12 ok no watt, desktop j95 mod
385.12 ok no watt, desktop
385.41 ok no watt

 

Have you encountered this issue before ?

 

There was something where if you touch the brightness just 1 touch it goes on, or when at full it goes off instead, something odd with the 120Hz AUO panels, but it was much further in this thread.

 

Sorry man, can't answer on that because this is an OEM system, but if it's reproduce-able then we can assume that it is a driver issue. Also, I would say contact vendor or MSI directly to request for newer version of BIOS/EC updates.

 

I appreciate you wanting to help but there is no benefit for me to do anything you suggested when simply reverting to the setup I was using prior to getting the dock works perfectly well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

On a 1070. I can imagine it being a bios issue as the time I had purchased it, Eurocom just offered 120hz monitors with the caveat there's no brightness controls. I've only been encountering it now as I had just picked it up after nearly a year after sending the original back as a lemon.

 

I can't make up my mind! I know most people here are all laptop enthusiasts and using laptops, I wish I could make up my mind if I should replace my desktop with this or just keep using my desktop as a home computer since I already have it and it is already built. There seems to be so many mixed experiences with the docks out there anyway, ugh decisions decisions.

 

Ditch the desktop, you know you want to. LOL

 

Hi Everyone. My Tornado F5 has arrived and it worked at first to BIOS and I chose XMP1 profile and did reset.After that screen is completely black but fans keyboard lights turbofan working
Can you help me how fix this black screen ? @Mr. Fox @woodzstack

 

Well I installed my Samsung 960EVO nvme ssd and I removed it. System worked and opened. I installed it again and system opened but when I wanted to install W10 SSD is not on the list for boot.

 

In theory I would love too but I don't know if I have enough confidence in the cooling of laptops in general to go back to using one 24/7 as my main computer especially with these parts in it. Thinking about it now makes me want to sell my desktop and remaining PUBG items I have and just build a whole new desktop. Why do I do this to myself when I don't even need any of it, but I feel like I need better computers!

 

What would be a good stand/cooler to pair with this? Notepal U3?

 

Did you just need to wait longer for the memory training on XMP 1 to complete or is it still messed up?

Open Diskpart in admin command prompt, select the disk and run clean command on it. Then convert gpt command. After that it should be visible to Windows Setup.

 

You have to make sure things are ACHI/or RAID and UEFI properly depending how you will use it, also the bios can be a bit tricky. You should find a menu to load CMS and it should work.

 

After long try I made it with change SATA option to AHCI.
I made some basic XTU ( -85mV) benchmarks and with delidded and custom bottom cover CPU hits 95 C on 5 minutes stress test.
With turbo fan 85 C is max. I think its little bit high for a delidded 7700K.

 

Well, it was not me who did your delid and repaste so I have no idea what to expect in terms of your temps.
Who did the delid ?

Also, you could go further, like -0.125 all the way up to like -0.175 depending on clock speeds too and temps.

But - atlas, 85C is still OKAY, you would end up at like 75C under full stress and load with the further underclock generally so your not far away. We also have no idea what clock your at or what your total voltage is, or if your on Auto or what.
Show us a HWmonitor shot to see your temps when idle, and maximums and voltages too. Heck I think it will even show you your fan speeds, so you can see if they are indeed on max.

 

Best advice is do what makes you happy. Desktops don't make me happy. Much more fun to tinker with laptops in my opinion.

At what clock speed?

Seems Extremely high if stock (4.5 GHz). Mine hits about 67C Max with -130mW @4.5

I get about 85C @ 4.8 GHz with -90mV

Make sue you heatsink is tightened correctly

 

I dont know who did my delid and I have no idea how can I learn who did it ? Also Is IHS glued after delid ? If not I can do re-delid but not sure if it effects warranty.
I will try further on undervolting. Just making all programs are installed and ready for games as well.

Its at stock. Do you get these temps with non-turbo fan ?

 

Yes, and no cooling pad. Just an air-conditioned room at 21C (70F)

My fan profile (150% is max turbo fan) It seems to max at 70% for my 4.5 GHz + undervolt profile

 

Out of curiosity, what does your GPU fan profile look like?