*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Well thanks for the input guys. Unless anyone else has any other recommendations? I think ill try to see if Eurocom can replace it, if not then ill have to order one from china (cant find them anywhere else).

 

Just to comment briefly on the fan situation:

Our factory fans do come apart pretty easily. Remove the sticker on the bottom of the fan and you'll see the spindle of the fan assembly. The spindle is locked into the housing by a little plastic washer. The washer is cut in one spot that allows it to be split and pulled out of the spindle. I used a tiny screwdriver to open the split in the washer and a pair of tweezers to pull it out. Once the washer is out, the entire fan assembly can also be pulled out very easily. There are two sets of bearings and a spring holding it in position in the housing. Keep track of how it goes back together and use the attached photo as an approximate guide...our fans are pretty similar.

I have had mine apart multiple times to try and change the sound profile of them at low speed. Unfortunately, the interference with the spring and bearings are such that there is little you can do to change the low rpm noise. When you put them back together, use a bit of oil (I used sewing machine oil) and replace the sticker so no dust gets inside the fan.

If you guys aren't able to salvage the fan, hit me up via pm. I have a couple of these fans in my workshop and I don't mind hooking you up. I ended up switching to a Delta fan that is much quieter at idle.

 

@alaskajoel

I have already gone ahead and submitted a service request for the laptop. If I am somehow still stuck with this fan for an extended time I will definitely try your suggestion, and possibly order a replacement from you if I can't get it from Eurocom. Thanks.

 

Do you have the part number for that delta fan? Might try it out myself. Haven't had time to touch my laptop in over a month but once this turnaround is complete where I work I will have some time off and feel like I need to tinker with something

 

What ? compatible new fan/different fans for the F5 ?
Sounds great, count me interested too !

 

I'm interested too (in change fans) ^_^

 

Ditto. Would love quieter fans.

 

I'd like to know that Delta part number as well! Thanks!

 

+1

 

exactly!

 

I had exactly the same issue happen to me a week ago ... my CPU fan would go high then low rpm with no obvious reason, low CPU temperature and workload. My girlfriend laughed saying it is going to die soon ... and so did happen few days after that. I almost fried my CPU and NVME ...
So i ordered 2 replacement fans from china (am am this scared that my other fan will fail soon)... and they don't come cheap at 25$/piece

Could it really be windows related? As there are many people out there complaining recently. And i haven't put much stress to the laptop recently.
My unit was bought before 1 year for the black Friday during my stay in the USA, but now i am back to Europe

I am also interested in the part number of the alternate fan.

 

Yea it's a bit weird they all seem to be failing at the same time. Although this particular fan has been failing for a while in other MSI laptops (MSI GT62VR for example) since March. I don't know though, hopefully it isn't Windows related, unless something in the update triggered an early fail? Regarding your CPU and NVME almost getting fried, that sounds really bad. I guess I will not force it to come on anymore until I replace it. Was that the reason for it almost getting fried? I did wonder if the the constant high and low rpm could cause any other problems.

An update to my issue:

Eurocom got back to me this morning (which is a surprisingly quick response, as I have seen others here have had issues with their response time in the past) so I am really happy with that. I will pay for them to send me a replacement, and I should get credit back once they receive the defective fan back from me. I live in Canada so hopefully shipment should be quick. I think I'll wait to see if the CPU fan develops any further issues, if it does the I will try the alternate compatible fan route. I don't like the idea of having to replace a failing fan every year, especially as I didn't get extended warranty on the laptop. Overall the laptop has been an great purchase, its a shame these fans seem to be so unreliable.

 

Failing fans on newer MSI is a known topic. Not only for this model or MSI GT62VR(I have posted about this in one of earlier post in this thred). Windoze screw up systems, but not the fans. Bad batch or quality problem.

 

Count me in on this as well.

Edit: Perhaps we can organize some sort of group buy where we can place one large order and get a volume discount. Kind of like what they do on mechanical keyboard forums and Massdrop.

 

My 16L13 was supposed to be delivered today, but because of a "weather delay" (I extend a middle finger in FedEx's direction) it'll probably not show up until Monday.

 

lol.

Yeah buying in bulk would be a thing, I'd help, but only if the fans are better quality. What I could do is help organise all my customers to get an "upgrade" if it was proven worth it.

Do we have a better fan to use ?

 

How many times now have you had to send your evoc to get repaired?? I want to order this laptop but i want to know thats its a quality piece considering the price tag attached to it. Everyday i start to lean more and more toward buying a desktop. Its just starting to make alot more sense to me. Do i really want to sacrifice that much for portability?? I can go down the street to micro center and build a friggin monster for the price of a great gaming laptop. Im torn lol

 

It's a tough choice, but from past experience if you are that enamored with what spending that much cash will get you with a desktop, then get the desktop now, and buy a gaming laptop on the crest of the new hardware wave for laptops next year.

New desktop stuff has been rolling out fast and heavy, with great options never before available. Now's the time to upgrade / buy a desktop.

Laptops, not so much - it's all great stuff but it's been out for over a year and you can do better with a desktop as a solid base, and then get the next wave of mobile gaming innovation next year.

There will be a CPU bump with Coffeelake HQ / HK CPU's in laptops 1H next year, and then 2H next year hopefully the next generation GPU's will hit laptops along with the next process bump to 10nm/7nm CPU's around the same time, that would be the time to get a high end gaming laptop.

The Coffee Lake Z390 8 core 16L13 and 17" version will be out 2H 2018 according to @Eurocom Support so there's that to consider.

But, if you want to move your gaming PC around to various gaming spots in the house, there really isn't a desktop substitute. Moving the computer around can work, I've done that, but it gets old fast.

It's a tough decision, but if your heart keeps wandering back to a desktop, I'd follow your heart.

 

Only once on the 16L13. You're probably thinking of my former Clevo P670RS, which had to have the motherboard replaced due to a BIOS update gone bad.

 

Noise, no, but after I removed the old fan I noticed that its bearings seem to be sloppy, and there is a distinct tactile bumpiness as I rotate the blades by hand. it feels approximately sinusoidal to the touch (that is, smooth bumps not jagged), which would in rotation translate to a rumble or low whine rather than a screech, depending on the rotation speed.

In my case, though, I've replaced both CPU and GPU fans now. I didn't detect any unusual noises before the fans failed; they just stopped rotating, at first intermittently and then totally. HID Evolution stepped up and got me the new parts to self-repair my machine (good on them!!!), but MSI is not speedy about shipping these parts.

Mine have both failed, and I don't have the Creators' Update installed yet. Also, I use my laptop in a very clean environment, and both of the failed fans I removed were still immaculately clean coming out of the machine. It's a problem with the fan manufacturing, not dirt or excessive wear. This laptop is an awesome machine in every other way, but I think MSI got a bad batch of fans from upstream.

 

I got my replacement fan yesterday installed it last night. GPU was at 90 playing assassin's Creed unity at 4K with auto fans. I definitely notice a subtly annoying whine to the sound characteristic with this fan that the previous GPU fan didn't have.

Hopefully @alaskajoel comes back and informs us which Delta part he's using. I tried to hunt it down myself but I can't find anything. Unless he used the AAVID housing and put a different fan inside it.

 

I finally delidded my CPU and here are the some results and thoughts.
Firts of all in 1 month period stock CPU and GPU temps did not change with dust.
I delidded CPU and little bit dissapointed about Eurocom Delid process.That because I clearly saw that IHS is removed but delid has made with some thermal paste that not liqiuid metal, not even phobya nano extreme, Kryonaut or IC Diamond. It is white thermal paste but Im not sure what it is.I did not understand that what is the reason behind that delid actually. After I delidded with Conductonaut, stock 4,5Ghz 7700K reaches 75 deg max with 2400rpm. (I did use Kryonaut on IHS and undervolted to 1,1V and -0,35mV offset.)
I also changed paste of GPU with Kryonaut. Temps are pretty smillar with stock IC Diamond. I overclocked to 2Ghz with non undervolting and max temp at %80 fan speed is 73 C.
Maximum power consumption is 203 W. Im using 230 W psu for now and will buy 330W in future.

 

So I went digging around decoding some things..

The AAVID part is 97mm x 97mm x 35mm .. 0.65A @ 12V


EDIT: this is actually pretty hilarious.. AAVID's part number decoder says this should be
97x97x35
https://www.aavid.com/product-group/partbuild-fans

But this is clearly 22mm tall. So the below delta part probably isn't going to work.. hmm..

This Delta part looks the closest to that:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/delta-electronics/BFB1012HH-TP48/603-2037-ND/6580727
http://www.delta-fan.com/Download/Spec/BFB1012HH-TP48.pdf

Might be able to fit that in there somehow and see if it's better quality. It looks like we're stuck with ball bearing type, all the sleeve bearing fans are much higher power requirement and I'm not sure if the spec of the power delivery for the fan will be able to handle a 2-4x output. That might not even be a bad thing based on this great analysis here:
http://www.nmbtc.com/fans/white-papers/fans_ball_vs_sleeve/

Looks like ball bearings might be better off at higher speeds anyway, as long as the fans are good quality.

 

Hi everyone, ended up having to sell my EVOC 16L as I do not need a gaming laptop as much as I need a new Insulin pump

 

You got sick?

 

No, Have type 1 Diabetes. Born sick so to speak. I broke my insulin pump out of warranty. Insurance will cover a new one, but I have a really high deductible

Thanks for the concern

 

No problem. I didn't know insulin pumps were that expensive until I searched it. Gaming isn't important than health. Take care.

 

I started a new thread specifically for fan discussion here.

If you want to try another stock fan, let me know. I can send you another one to try out. I'll never go back to the stock AAVIDs.

 

Thanks!!

No, I'm looking for new solutions, the stock fan replacement is louder than the original one, sort of like a grindy type signature at medium RPM. I miss my Sammy Gamer 7, that thing was near silent at full load. Maybe I'll take that apart and see what fans were in it.

EDIT: bought the GPU fan you suggested in the thread, thanks again.

 

That sucks. Be well man.

 

Hmm... Is it typical for the GPU to be running at 90C while gaming? I don't want to bother taking it apart and reapplying some TIM if that's common.

So far I've only tried Assassin's Creed: Unity and Everspace, but they were both at 90C.

 

If we are talking about stock voltages and frequency, I think its little bit high. Mine was hitting max 76 with +150 core, auto voltages with IC Diamond. Generally it was around 71-73 Celcius. Now I changed paste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and max temp in same conditions is 73C.

HTC One cihazımdan Tapatalk kullanılarak gönderildi

 

I was expecting my machine to be returned today, but tracking still shows it as being in transit. I've reached out to HID to see if they can chase after FedSux.

 

It appears to be running stock voltages. I did get the Prema BIOS installed on my previous RMA run, but AFAIK that doesn't have anything to do with the vBIOS. I would bargain it's best to just let the GPU manage default voltages since it adjusts them based on current clock speed. I have no desire to change that

I see it running at ~1750 Mhz until it hits or gets really close to 90C then it backs off to ~1400-1500Mhz (essentially losing boost clocks in essence)
It then wavers between 90C-91C adjusting the clocks up and down to keep it from going over 90C it seems.

This whole time the GPU is at 100% usage. But it will still hit 90C at lesser usage percentages.. 80-100% it seems. Hard to nail that down though as Assassin's Creed : Unity wavers between 60-100 .. usually only hitting it's highest usage during cutscenes. Probably because detail is increased for those. Everspace pegs it at 100% pretty much constantly at all times, so I was using that.

If it's true that with the default heatsink and TIM that comes with the EVOC that I should be seeing much lower temps at 100% GPU usage at near stock base clocks then it would seem either the TIM is at fault or the contact between the GPU and heatsink isn't level/flush.

 

I have gtx1070 and with my overclock it hits 2ghz not stable whole time but it always stays around 1850-2000 mhz.
I think you should check your gpu voltage via HWinfo.If its okey then you should check all the heatsink screws are tighten correctly. There are a lot of possiblities for high temp. Maybe thermal paste has some air bubbles.

HTC One cihazımdan Tapatalk kullanılarak gönderildi

 

I'll check the curve when I get home, what should the stock voltage curve look like for a 1080 Notebook?

 

So I got the my replacement GPU fan today, installed it and it works fine. Haven't noticed any noise issue/problems with a few hours use. Got to say that Eurocom were very good with their service, they responded to my inquiry quickly and shipped the replacement as soon as possible. Really happy with that.

I notice that @alaskajoel seems to have opened a separate thread for fan mods. I'll definitely keep that bookmarked for when my CPU fan decides to die, as that is looking likely from the sound its making compared to the new one.

 

Hey guys, its been a while since I last visited the forums but lo and behold, the reason why I came back is apparently the same reason why a couple people here have posted =/

I've been having some fan issues with my F5 recently, it's been annoyingly ramping up and down even when it's been sitting idle for an hour. I tried playing around with silent option and tuning down XTU thinking it was the temps (never got hot) but to no avail. I got it through Eurocom and judging from some posts here, sounds like a replacement should do the trick?

Otherwise if nothing else I'll have to hit them up later this week.

Side note, anyone know how the F5's resale value is holding up?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

My default voltage curve, probably same as everyone else's defaults?

 

Yeah, but can you Overclock it?

That should be a nice upgrade for you, improve your overall life situation, and be happy it's going to extend your life and give you more future chances for more new laptop's!!

 

I will check my 1070 voltages later today and will post maxiumum- average voltage in Battlefield 1 because of %99GPU usage.
Im not sure about exact value but probably around 1V-1.050V.

Can you check your temp graph on XTU and post it here ? Mine had same problem but I was using non-original Windows 10 Pro.So I tried to reboot all system and buy original key , problem solved.
If you use cracked Windows , in Windows 10 there is an software that ''Microsoft Software Protection Platform'' which is runnig every minute for 2-3 seconds and pushing CPU to around 15% usage.That makes temperatures get peaked for a moment.

 

Hi Everyone.

First off, amazing thread with huge amount of info. I have tried to look through it to find my issue so apologies if I have missed it.

I opened up the bottom case today just to give it a bit of a dust off. I was careful, did not poke around too much, just blew some air, and wiped down the super dusty parts.

When I went to turn it back on the screen will not turn on.

Soo, I have been through it, I have checked the screen connector and it seems alright. It is a bit loose and easy to pull out but is seated. Is this normal?

I have hooked it up to an external monitor and I get no output as well.

I have pulled the battery and let it sit for a bit.
I reset the CMOS using a pin.
I checked the screen connector on the screen and it seems absolutely fine.

The computer turns on, keyboard lights up and responds to light brightness up and down. But no screen.

Soo I am scratching my head here.

Any ideas would be sooo appreciated!

 

With my one and half month of experience , I have similar problem at first day. When I selected the XMP 1 profile in memory overclock and reboot, system restarted and there was no screen. Nothing but black screen. Keyboard lights were working and turbo fan button was working. Then I removed my M2 SSD and system opened. Then I shut down system again and put SSD back. System started normally.
Maybe it is so dumb way but worked for me.

 

here is mine, slightly different, but I noted that sometimes this change is related to driver version (i'm on notebook 388.00 win7x64) other than the "silicon lottery"



and here my 150W vBios from EUROCOM (thats different from standard 150W from MSI), with this my gpu top at 74°c at 21°c ambient temp with MSI silent on "Base" two notch down from max, icd7 on gpu die.

 

@aaronne - OK, I see what you did with the fans. Thanks for posting that.

 

Well my GTX1070 at 2Ghz draws max 1,063V in Battlefield 1 and max temp is 69 C

 

Thanks for the advice, unfortunately it did not work for me.

Reading through this thread I found some info saying that if NUM LOCK does not work then it is not booting. Which would mean its not the LCD right?

Whats the correct fix for a non posting device?

Do I have to do a master reset and pull the CMOS battery?

Thanks for the help!

 

Is system restarting after a time around 1 or 2 mins ? Or it stays like a long time ?For me it was restarting after 1 min and was staying black screen again.

 

Yeah, this definitely leads me to believe I have either poor TIM effectiveness or poor heatsink contact.

 

It will just stay powered on for as long as I let it. Will not restart.