*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

It seems to be that the 5.1 has the same screw holes layout of the 5.2, according to resellers images, so in this case the difference is somewhere else (matte vs glossy? different position of the eDP connector? Who knows...)

 

I requested pics, if the connect is the same, holes and connector is on the same spot i go for it there is no life w/o 120hz

could you pls link the pic you have found? I can compare the connector as well type and location

 

05.1 http://www.panelook.com/B156HTN05.1_AUO_15.6_LCM_overview_31517.html (with photos)
https://www.dhgate.com/product/for-15-6-quot-lcd-screen-display-b156htn05/403392312.html

05.2 https://ssli.ebayimg.com/images/g/NS4AAOSw9idZ6wk6/s-l1600.jpg
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/15-6...HD-edp-30pin-1920X1080-120HZ/32827779676.html

eDP 30 pin for both

 

Thx, for me all the same... But I might be wrong

 

Any one know a good place to seek one of these system .. it has a 7700k and a gtx 1070

 

Eurocom.com

 

Alezka.com or pm woodzstack . He has special price

 

Guys,
Does anyone know, that EUROCOM offers unlocked bios for their customers? Either way I need a new bios as I would like to replace the screen to 120hz, however unlocked bios would be also welcomed
thx, cheers

 

I bought my laptop with unlocked bios but 2 days ago they told me there is a new version of bios is available and they wanted me to install Teamviewer 11. I installed and they gave me .310 version.
Try to open support ticket and contact them.

 

Thx for the reply, I will try!

 

Could you make, please, a screenshot with bios date and version? I would to know if I'm on the last or whatever


Here is mine, thanks!

 

I did not update yet because I bought 2x8 3000Mhz RAMs from EUROCOM but one of them is faulty stick which causes BSOD for me. Im waiting Gskill to replace them.
Your BIOS version is same with mine right now.

 

My GPU fan died in my F5. Trying to find a replacement. Anyone have suggestions where I might find one? Considering checking microcenter in the morning but I'm doubtful.

 

You can try reaching out to Eurocom to see if they have any extras they can mail you. Otherwise, you'll have to pay for replacements. I don't know if HIDevolution has them in stock. If not, fleBay is about your only option. I bought two from that seller to have on-hand for when mine eventually bite the dust. It's a five-minute job to replace them yourself.

 

Yee. Thanks for the options!

 

@woodzstack usually has something in stock. MXM GPUs are his specialty. Send him a PM

 

Does anyone use dragon center? In the advance fan setting no matter I set to 125 or 150% it does not seem to work... same rpm as cooler booster. If I let the setting on auto it takes too much time until the fans spin upto 100% causing pretty high temps (4,5Ghz@1,19V@83C / 4,6Ghz@1,21V@85C)

What program do you propose to use to set the fans? or how do you do it? thx!

 

Im using silent option. I used dragon center before but there is no extra for me in it.
In daily use,Im using auto. For games like BF1 which use cpu more , I'm using my advance settings which put cpu fan to max. Question for me is my fans reach max at 3870 rpm. What is your max ?
Also for max temp for 1 hour BF1 at 4.4Ghz 1,18V temp is 74 C.

 

@saturnotaku, sorry it has take me so long. I've been dealing with a lot lately. Here are my BIOS screens. Let me know if you have any questions.

Spoiler

 

My fans max around 4000rpm... but as far as I remember it could be higher with advanced setting.... confused a little bit I will check it again... thx

 

What is the script for hiding text and images?

 

Do you mean "spoiler" bracketing?

Here is an actual spoiler, and then the text of what it took to make it in a code snippet...

Spoiler

this is a spoiler

Code:

[spoiler]
this is a spoiler
[/spoiler]

Here is how to add a title to the spoiler:

Spoiler: Title of spoiler

stuff that spoils...

Code:

[spoiler=Title of spoiler]
stuff that spoils...
[/spoiler]

...special characters and bold, italic, underline don't work inside the brackets of a spoiler...

You can also nest spoilers:

Spoiler: Details...

text of interest too long to show outside of spoiler...

Spoiler: Actual spoiler inside text inside spoiler...

wow, is that true?

end of text details...

Code:

[spoiler=Details...]
text of interest too long to show outside of spoiler...
[spoiler=Actual spoiler inside text inside spoiler...]
wow, is that true?
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end of text details...
[/spoiler]

 

Your bios settings are messed up.
Your laptop has an unavoidable 91W TDP--the EC will throttle the CPU back to 91W if 91W is exceeded. This is an EC Issue, not a Bios issue. the bios "power limit 1 and 2" values get completely ignored

You also have IMON SLOPE at positive offset. This will make the CPU throttle SOONER Because it will report MORE wattage than its actually using. That should be set to NEGATIVE not positive. And you can try to use 31999. don't go higher. 32000 'flips' back to 0 for some reason. Using a negative imon of -31999 will make the CPU report less power than its actually using, which should be enough to give you about 105W of power instead of 91W.
If you find that -31999 is not working, then your 25000 value is fine, just put the offset at negative, not positive

PSYS_PMax should just be set at 0.

 

just wrote to him in private the same thing:

Spoiler

Hi sorry for my English grammar.
I just look at your pictures, please take a look here
http://forum.notebookreview.com/posts/10660416/
for my old settings on 6700K. now I'm on 7700K and I have some different settings exposed in bios.

You could change some settings for your stability and safety:
AC/DC 1/1 to limit Vdroop and vcore spikes.
Under System Agent VR config:
IMON offset on - not + (this settings set on 31999 cut 16W from total CPU drain, useful because our Tornado F5 is limited to standard 91W from Intel's spec) with + (plus) sign you are reporting a greater wattage then the real one.
Only touch and change the CPU's power Limit and not the platform's one.

Setting the UNcore voltage is the same of Vcore because they are locked together.


Best Regards,


Luca

And:

I will try those later thanks. So far I've had zero throttling and my temps are good. What will I notice with those changes?

The info is already on the our long thread.
Are you monitoring by Hwinfo?
If yes, you will see (if boot, because of different vcore generated by set AC/DC to 1/1) less vcore spike when your cpu load, so better temps!

The Imon offset is useful only on cpu oveclock from 4,5Ghz and up because it trick your EC to read less watt (so moar powa for GPU & CPU overclocking) ^_^

Cheers,

Luca

 

I have not had throttling whatsoever. My clocks stay maxed at 4.8Ghz. They do not drop down.

 

Try to exceed 91W TDP for more than 30 seconds.
(IMON OFFSET (negative) will raise that cap).
Run prime95 @ 4.8 ghz, disable AVX, FMA3.
you *will* throttle.

 

What could be the problem with my temps? I have played CoD ww2 for 1 hour, and I realized...
The max voltage for the CPU is 1.19V, all spikes were eliminated from bios... my clevo 775dm3 with 1080 and 4,6 had a lot better temps - 80C... I am confused what the problem could be...

beside, what is the max rpm for fans? In silent option there is 150% fan setting, but my fans max at 4000rpm, which I assume is the 100%...

thx for the help, tomorrow I try to repaste the cpu+gpu to filter that possible problem out

 

I tried both of them, prema and svet bios with no result, i still using that screen with older nvidia drivers and still waiting for future fix.

 

Put the CPU in your clevo and check?
Fastest way to solve problems. Since you do have two cpu's. why not switch them and see for yourself?
Might be bad de-lid. Might be bad heatsink or bad mount of heatsink or IHS. You're lucky because you have two CPU's. Fastest way to check is to swap the CPU's.

 

Unfortunately I sold the clevo today... my desktop was sold a month ago... unfortunately I do not have two cpus...

 

I have just quickly checked the heatpipe, all of them seem hot, meaning they should work, right?
Should I remove the 4 screws from the heatpipe which come from the gpu? thx, tomorrow I will take apart and reseat the heatsink... lets hope the bests...

 

Ok I see you updated your sig.
Only thing you can do then is to de-lid, check the paste or LM, clean the IHS and Heatsink and CPU die completely (first, use a paper towel with isopropyl alcohol to clean the underside of the IHS, then when done, if there is ANY residue or stains or hardened LM remaining, you need to take very fine grit sandpaper and wipe the underside of the IHS (make sure the sandpaper is wet, not dry. Wet does simple hard cleaning, dry does actual sanding), then clean the CPU surface fully.

When you repaste, apply a very thin coated "tinned" layer of LM underneath the IHS and rub it in vigorously. This causes LM to get into any defects (tiny gaps/holes) in the IHS surface first, rather than the LM on the CPU being absorbed there. This step has been proven to reduce temps by a couple of C, and can also prolong the life of the LM applied to the CPU. Then apply your dot layer of LM on the CPU surface and spread properly, and reattach IHS, and if you used automotive silicone gasket sealer, go ahead and reseal.. Then reapply whatever you used on the heatsink to IHS surface. If you used LM there, don't forget the prep work (foam dams, nail polish or Kapton tape or Super 33+ tape) and so on.

 

Hey wondering if anyone can help me, I have purchased 2 ADATA XPG M.2 SSD's to use in my little beast. One is 128GB and other is a 512GB. Bought directly from my local computer store.

They run extremely hot, hot enough they disable themselves until cooled down. And the major weird thing I noticed while checking device manager is that they are showing up as a raid scsi device when they aren't in raid and raid is disabled in my bios. (Also the raid driver being used is apparently from AMD?)

 

Thx, first i will reseat the heatsink if it does not improve relid will come.
What is the general thinking about the screws linked to the cpu heatpipe? Remove or leave there tight?

 

yup, GPU's basically are where I started. Thanks for the shout out too, haven't seen you in awhile, I was like "hey it's that guy !"

 

UPDATES: I have repasted the cpu+gpu, but did not help much. Both were pretty dry, I have used artic mx4. I was hoping that this was the problem, but the temps are more or less the same, high. I have tried not to put the 4 screws in which connects the extra gpu heatsink to the cpu. CPU wise the temps were almost the same, however the gpu's temp increased almost 10C... so I have put them back.
The heatpipe - all of them - are very hot, so I assume they work. Nothing else has left but to relid the 7700k if see there is any problem with the CLU, IHS etc.
I have put the CPU to 4,3Ghz@1,119V@-60mV, now the temps remain around 80C after 30mins of COD. I still consider them high...

 

Why are you using MX-4?
that's a horrible paste.
And as I said, you need to de-lid and check the liquid metal.
If you don't have any LM, you can buy some from amazon rather quickly.
You should not have temps that high.

and are you sure the fans are working correctly? i didn't see you mention the fans.

 

OK, what is your suggestion for paste? I will replace it. The fans spin 4000/4000rpm each. I need to buy LM, and I will de-lid again. I do not like these temps either... I have a pretty OK chip, 4,5Ghz@1,18V it should not be 90C with coolerbooster on...

 

yeah LOL it's VERY bad paste, might as well use peanutbutter, honestly. I find mustard works just as well too.

 

Use Grizzly Kryonot and get with the program ! This is amazing paste ! Or Gelid Extreme, almost as good.

 

OK, I will use grizzly. Is there any difference among the different types... I cannot find Grizzly Kryonot just hydronaut and aeronaut...

 

Kryonaut is the best of the non-conductive pastes, both in comprehensive reviews & in my own more limited experience.

 

Did you used modded svet's bios for 115tdp?

 

So, i have to get the laptop to hid's service centre or msi centre for msi 16l13 repairs?

 

The 16L13 is an odd duck in that it's made by MSI but is not sold in typical retail channels. As such, you need to go through your reseller in order to get service, whether that's HID, Eurocom, or elsewhere. You would not contact MSI.

 

I registered my laptop to MSI website and there was a text about MSI warranty but I can't remember it right now. Do you have any information about that registration or warranty ?
@Falkentyne @ThatOldGuy @woodzstack

 

If warranty covered issues arise, it is best to go though your re-seller

 

Can you please tell me more on that

 

You can check that on MSI website or just write "msi product registration" to google. I did when I got my laptop 5 months ago.

 

Yeah i know about the msi products, but i wanted to know that can you register the tornado f5? I mea that is a barebone laptop, and thats a pretty diffrent fish!