*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Yeah and there wasnt any error about that. Maybe because of gt62 shell from msi or something else. I dont know

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You should be able to register it through MSI but as others have said, you are better off going through your reseller for service/issues than trying to go to MSI directly.

 

updates: my fight with the 7700k temp is getting to the final stage... I have checked all paste, heatsink, reseat etc. options, nothing has helped significantly to improve the temps @4,5@1,19V. I wanted to enter to the final battle to relid the 7700k, and what I have realized... the "smart" prevoius owner glued back the IHS with superglue... ohhh boy...furthermore the IHS is pushed very very hard to the panel, so I cannot cut the superglu either... I have check on the net, but I have not found any secure option to relid... Finally I am thinking to sell the 7700k, in some desktop computer it could be good on higher clocks as well, and buy a 6700k. What do you think about is? As I have googled, 6700k@4,5ghz is not a biggy, however temp wise it seems a better choise... all advise is highly appreciated! thx, cheers

 

My previous Clevo P870DM3 had a Silicon Lottery Delidded 6700K and it used to stay clocked at 4.6GHz on all cores 24/7

 

and temp wise, what is your opinion? my current 7700k is not that good... 4,5@91C is a joke

 

That is a big joke. Your 7700K which in theory should clock higher than a 6700K has higher temps. 4.5 GHz os nothing man, I would return that pile of crap CPU to the reseller and get a replacement. They like gave you the worst of the worst when it comes to Silicon quality

If you can't return it, just sell it to a desktop user and get a Silicon Lottery unless you are planning to try your luck again and deal with pasting, repasting, not liking it, then selling it again.

Be smart...be like Phoenix and go for Silicon Lottery CPUs...

 

thank you for your answer. I am not that idiot to buy this crap, I have bought the laptop second hand and the cpu came with it...so I cannot return to anywhere... I will sell, and buy silicon lottery for sure

 

91C means the thermal compound or LM on the inside is messed up. Even the worst 7700K will not have temps that high. If you can't delid and fix it, RMA /sell/return it, etc.

 

The "smart" prevoius owner WHO glued back the IHS with superglue have probably screwed up the thermal paste - Liquid metal under IHS.

Go for 7700K

 

as a reference: i got an SL binned 7700k in the 5.2 ghz class and its able to run at 4.8 ghz all cores 24/7 at around 1.2v during load. its delidded, ihs not glued on, just held down by the cpu clamp with CLU between ihs/die and kryonaut between ihs/heatsink. cant go any higher since it already reaches low 90s when transcoding video or during other high loads. its benchable at 5.1 ghz though.

so remember, when getting SL cpus ull have to adjust downward a few multis from the advertized bin for 24/7 clocks in a laptop.

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I think it's better you go with a 7700K rather than 6700K - you'll hit higher clocks at lower voltages with the 7700K, and as far as I'm aware the cooling of 6700K is not any better than 7700K.

 

7700K heat more than 6700K I think intel also mentioned somewhere that don't do the overclocking due to the heat issue.


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it depends how you compare the two cpus. at identical frequency, 7700K needs less voltage, thus is cooler (since voltage is THE major internal factor contributing to heat, whereas higher frequency at same voltage is negligible in heat generation). however, since 7700K can reach far higher clocks at higher voltages than the 6700K ure more likely to run into heat as the limiting factor rather the overall silicon stability at a given clock. thus, it may "seem" that the 7700k runs hotter than the 6700k when in fact it does not!

and yea, intel indeed issued such a statement which is total BS if you ask me. advertize an UNLOCKED cpu for overclocking and then warn the users not to overclock it due to heat? whatevs...

 

UPDATES: I have changed the CPU to a "real" silicon lottery one (My friend borrowed me, the cpu runs 5ghz@1,3V or even 5,2Ghz@1,352V so it is a really good one). I was surprised that the result was not so much better... OK it was 5-8C cooler, but 85C@4,5Ghz@1,14V. I have changed the paste to thermal grizzling, checked everything... My opinion is that COD WW2 is f*cked big time 100% CPU on all cores+all threads, 100% GPU is just killing the laptop after 30-45mins... I would be curious if anyone play cod ww2 multi on his machine to have comparison. The solution is really simple thou... I have capped the FPS @ 125, and it helps to keep the cpu cores around 80%. On 120hz screen (even without gsync) is buttery smooth. On my clevo even on 4,6Ghz the 7700k was 82C max... I have capped the fps max 200, but I had 1080 gtx in that machine, so the CPU cores were not maxed out, as the 1080 could produce more frames than the 1070. Most probably with a 1080 the cpu core should be cooler as they dont run on 100%.... anyway if anyone has experience pls share

 

Anyone knows what determines the vga voltage? In my cyberpower laptop the 1070 has 0,9V on full load. My friens Eurocom F5 requires 1,05V? Mine shows 115W, his 130W in hwinfo? What determines this? thx

 

Different vbios.
Different 1070 bioses have different TDP power limits
Yours is most likely a 115W bios while your friends' is using a 130W card.
If i set my TDP on my 195W (modded) GTX 1070, which has a base TDP of 150W (range: 151-195W) to 115W by using 77% power limit in afterburner, I'm usually running at 0.875v because of PWR limit.

 

Can I replace the bios with a 130W or even higher? Or just if I swap the card

 

In most cases, yes, as long as your bios was designed for your card's output ports. But if your system is gsync and you put on a non gsync bios i don't know what will happen.
I saw someone who had a non gsync system who put a gsync vbios on and their card flickered like crazy when they went into windows (but not in safe mode).

 

What vBIOS version does he have? I haven't heard of a 130w TDP 1070 MSI card yet, can you please share that vBIOS here?

 

I will ask him to check... what I have only realized when we compared the temp in hwinfo, that its says 1,05V and 130W. mine 0,9V and 115w...

 

Get a version # on that vBIOS and share it here. Maybe it's some unreleased slightly higher TDP version though I haven't heard of Eurocom having any other version out there.

 

Maybe 125W version. There was officially a 1070 that was between 115W and 150W. I just don't remember the TDP. And if it's 125W, it can easily go past it to 130W.
My TDP is 195W and I've seen it go up spike to 204W in hwinfo64.

 

Hello everyone. I am looking to purchase a Tornado F5 from Eurocom very soon: http://www.eurocom.com/ec/configure(2,384,0)TornadoF5

So far, I have added the 120Hz screen and 330W power supply in the configurator. But I have some questions:

1. Does the Corsair 3000MHz CL16 RAM run at full speed, or would I be better off picking the HyperX 2400MHz CL14?
2. Is the unlocked BIOS and factory de-lid option worth the extra $125, or can I obtain an unlocked BIOS from Svet/Prema via donation instead? I can also de-lid the 6700K myself.
3. What is the TDP of the GTX 1070 in the F5? Is there a vBIOS mod available for it?
4. Does the F5 come with thermal pads for the M.2 SSDs? I will be sourcing my own M.2 drives.

Appreciate any insight that you can provide.

 

Hello! I bought replacement fans from a seller in ebay as my cpu fan just died. The fans arrived but the seller gave me -N395 insteas of -N322. The seller said -N395 and -N322 is the same because it came from different factories and different batches and asked me to use it anyway since they are the same voltage and power. I tried searching google about this fan model but i dont see any info about this.

-edit- I am checking the wires and the colors are placed differently. Ill get back to the seller on this.

-edit #2- I have installed the fans and they are working so far. thank you very much @ felix3650 for the assistance with the fan pinout comparison of the N322 and N395.

I bought the fans from this seller in case anyone needs to buy replacement fans.

https://www.ebay.com.sg/usr/pcparthub5



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My 1070 gtx in my Cyberpower Fangbook


My friend's 1070 in Eurocom tornado F5


My hwinfo screenshot after valley benchmark test


My friend's screenshot after valley:


Please help me to understand what's is the difference... in gpu-z the clock are even higher in my rig, however my card max out at 120W... If I check the gpu-z report, mine has higher fillrate and stuff (which is wierd actually)... is it vbios thing or bios of the laptop?

 

btw: I borrowed my friend laptop to test, and we tried to upgrade the bios - I have requested a new one from eurocom - but it says. "ROM file ROMID is not compatible with the existing BIOS ROMID"



thx for the help in advance

 

None of your pictures work.
PLEASE use IMGUR for picture hosting !!! It's free and easy and simple.

 

Interesting as I see all of the pictures in the post... I will replace them anyhow

 

Seems they need to sign in to Dropbox.

 

You are signed in. That's why people don't use stuff like photobucket, imageshack (yuck) or those other terrible sites anymore. Imgur is as popular as Discord is for chatters, works well, no strings attached and just plain works.

 

now?

 

Yes, very good.

 

Great, I am curious about your opinion about the 1070s... thx in advance

 

How would i know about this? I don't know, thus, no opinion. I just wanted to see screenshots.

 

OK, maybe somebody else has opinion...

 

Your friend run higher voltage on graphics. And voltage scaling vs. clocks don’t work very good for Pascal. See oc’d Max-Q.

 

Yes, his 1070 has 1,05V, mine 0.9V... so it means, that eventhough it has higher Watts, it does not mean faster card? I am not familiar with max-q...

 

Put it this way... Higher voltage does not reflect or equal as much higher performance. Max Q graphics is known to deliver best / most performance vs. lower power usage(See. They are offered with lower voltage vs. normal similar graphics). And Pascal perform better the lower temp they run.

 

Thank you, than I will not swap the vgas secretly...

 

Use the one who will give you the best performance

 

would be too much fuss the swap them.... both laptop have different cpus, so I cannot make a comparable test which could be better... one thing however is sure, +0,15V give 5-10C more for the vga... from that respect I pretty much like mine...

 

Just to add about what Papusan said, just so you know he wasn't saying that Max Q is a great card:

The hate regarding max Q was not the power efficiency. It was that it was being sold for the SAME price as the non max "Crippled" versions, despite offering lower performance (you pay more and get less).

 

None should defend Max-Q. It won’t perform as the normal graphics in same number series. On top, all off the Max-Q is soldered filthy. And as you said... Overpriced. Pay the same prices but get less performance. Nvidia and the OEMS main goal... Milk more while they can. Sad!! It’s Scam/Fraud.

 

I think clevo p950hr (1070max q ) is even more expensive than the p650hs ( 1070 ) .

 

If people buy it whatever prices, it will always be like this. It won’t happen if people voted “No thanks” with their wallets.

 

Any idea about this error message during bios upgrade? ROM file ROMID is not compatible with the existing BIOS ROMID?

 

Hi,

NEED HELP!

I rebooted my Tornado F5 through windows ... unplugged 2 usb drives while it was in the process and it never booted again .
It was hooked up to an external monitor.
Fans start spinning when i press the power button and then they slow down or stop. The 2 out of 3 buttons (fan max, lid the keyboard) work. It sends a signal to the external monitor but that is all then the monitor says no signal and stands by...
Status LEDs are not turning on at all. Just the one that is on the power button.

Tried resetting the bios through the button, removing ram, removing the CMOS battery on the other side of the motherboard ... nothing works.
I am desperate... it was a simple restart. I was planning to move the laptop around after the restart, but i didn't move it an inch... just unplugged the two USBs. Even if they shorted or something ... they should have burned not the whole thing.

Damn this laptop endured so many interventions - Liquid metal - spilled over the whole GPU, skewed off 7700k during delid, bent pins on the CPU socket ... yet it worked as a charm for almost a year after all those things.
BTW no liquid metal has leaked since my last intervention ... more than half an year ago.

Any ideas?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like you're doing all the right things to try & fix it re CMOS battery, etc. Regarding CMOS battery, did you remove main laptop battery (you know the massive main battery), then remove CMOS, then keep power button pressed for about 30 sec, then put CMOS battery back in, then put main battery back in - it was something like this for my old Alienware laptop I think, so might be similar for yours, but best to check your manuals for any information regarding best method for clearing CMOS.

 

You can use ' /X' to skip the romid check and force flash it.

Do be careful though; there's a risk of bricking it. Check current system's id with ' /S' and the binary's with ' /U'. Do the same for an official, downloaded version for this system. Eurocom may have accidentally send you the wrong file, but it might also simply be a version for a compatible system, yet with a different id.

Spoiler: AFUDOS v3.07.00

Code:

+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                 AMI Firmware Update Utility  v3.07.00                     |
|      Copyright (C)2014 American Megatrends Inc. All Rights Reserved.      |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Usage: AFUDOS.EXE <ROM File Name> [Option 1] [Option 2]...                |
|           or                                                              |
|        AFUDOS.EXE <Input or Output File Name> <Command>                   |
|           or                                                              |
|        AFUDOS.EXE <Command>                                               |
| ------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| Commands:                                                                 |
|         /O - Save current ROM image to file                               |
|         /U - Display ROM File's ROMID                                     |
|         /S - Refer to Options: /S                                         |
|         /D - Verification test of given ROM File without flashing BIOS.   |
|         /A - Refer to Options: /A                                         |
|       /OAD - Refer to Options: /OAD                                       |
| /CLNEVNLOG - Refer to Options: /CLNEVNLOG                                 |
| Options:                                                                  |
|     /MEUL: - Program ME Entire Firmware Block, which supports             |
|              Production.BIN and PreProduction.BIN files.                  |
|         /Q - Silent execution                                             |
|         /X - Don't Check ROM ID                                           |
|       /CAF - Compare ROM file's data with Systems is different or         |
|              not, if not then cancel related update.                      |
|         /S - Display current system's ROMID                               |
|       /JBC - Don't Check AC adapter and battery                           |
|  /HOLEOUT: - Save specific ROM Hole according to RomHole GUID.            |
|              NewRomHole1.BIN /HOLEOUT:GUID                                |
|        /SP - Preserve Setup setting.                                      |
|         /R - Preserve ALL SMBIOS structure during programming             |
|        /Rn - Preserve SMBIOS type N during programming(n=0-255)           |
|         /B - Program Boot Block                                           |
|         /P - Program Main BIOS                                            |
|         /N - Program NVRAM                                                |
|         /K - Program all non-critical blocks.                             |
|        /Kn - Program n'th non-critical block(n=0-15).                     |
|     /HOLE: - Update specific ROM Hole according to RomHole GUID.          |
|              NewRomHole1.BIN /HOLE:GUID                                   |
|         /L - Program all ROM Holes.                                       |
|        /Ln - Program n'th ROM Hole only(n=0-15).                          |
|      /ECUF - Update EC BIOS when newer version is detected.               |
|         /E - Program Embedded Controller Block                            |
|        /ME - Program ME Entire Firmware Block.                            |
|      /MEUF - Program ME Ignition Firmware Block.                          |
|         /A - Oem Activation file                                          |
|       /OAD - Delete Oem Activation key                                    |
| /CLNEVNLOG - Clear Event Log.                                             |
|   /CAPSULE - Override Secure Flash policy to Capsule                      |
|  /RECOVERY - Override Secure Flash policy to Recovery                     |
|        /EC - Program Embedded Controller Block. (Flash Type)              |
|    /REBOOT - Reboot after programming.                                    |
|  /SHUTDOWN - Shutdown after programming.                                  |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

WOW ... thanks. I didn't do this.
However problem was solved magically. It didn't turn on after all of the above ... i was ready to give up and send it to my brother which has the same one to test out the components one by one.
Gave it a final try ... and magic it powered on!
Really WTF! Mindfuck.