*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

The previous owner who I bought the machine from... Due to the superglue I have not dared to relid, but I have always felt it was due to the improper work...

 

Ah....what on earth!! That is careless work!!

 

You going to put copper IHS ?


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Yes, I have bough from ebay yesterday from Poland. It was 16EUR x2 plus 7EUR shipping. Due to the test I have read, I could save additional 3-4C with the copper IHS... I will keep you all updated! Furthermore, after that, I will mod the bottom with 5cm holes, I am dying to see what will be the final temp result...

 

SO......Nvidia new GPUs....Turin.....GTX 1180 or is it 2080?

Any leaked specs? Any forecasting whether they will be available in our MXM form factor to be installed into our EVOC 16L13 or Tornado F5?

@Donald@HIDevolution @Eurocom Support @Mr. Fox @Phoenix

 

Yeah, and as I see the CLU does not cover the whole core... there was 7-8C difference on the 4th core comparing to the 1st...

 

Yes it will drop few celsius and why not bought from rockitcool


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I did not know it... but for me either way who produced as long as it is good this IHS is in the EU so from shipping point of view it is fast and cheap...

 

Ok. Please keep posted with pics


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I have already had one with copper IHS, this goes to my desktop PC. I cannot wait tesing it, the chip also good: 4,8Ghz@1,2V, 5Ghz@1,3v, 5,2Ghz@1,356V

 

BTW: anyone knows I can SWITCH OFF the email notification... after each thread message I receive an email... killing me this thing...

 

Hi Bro. I have not heard or seen anything about next generation GeForce cards. I never pay a lot of attention to speculation discussions. I prefer to save my excitement or condemnation until the products are released, available for purchase, and there are experienced end-user examples available showing overclocked benchmark results. If the industry remains true to form, I expect we will see an increase in castrated BGA filth and more examples of proprietary garbage for mobile that make hardware upgrades on previously released machines unnecessarily difficult.

 

Ah....cancer firmware and Bios....God help us.

 

...that does NOT look like liquid metal!
Liquid metal isn't that color....
It's completely silver.
You can tell by the color on the IHS surface.....it looks like:
1) regular paste.
2) regular paste mixed with LM.

Anyway, when you do the repaste, please buy some transparent nail polish (make sure it has ingredient cellulose !!!), and do a paint coat over the exposed traces on the PCB around the CPU. This is for security to make sure that LM will not short anything. Then you use the 4 dabs of RTV Silicone (like i linked earlier for you) and relid after using LM. Also for best temps remember, paint Conductonaut on the IHS also right above the CPU (in the same shape of the CPU, but a little larger area than the CPU).

Good luck.

 

I ha

Its completely silver, the photo makes it different color... anyway I will give to an expert to do it... the copper IHS is tricky as it is bigger than the regular IHS, seems hard to me...
I will give feedback of the results: 1) same CPU with reCLU + copper IHS 2) hopefully bottom mod

 

@matyee

BTW why can't I send PM's to you? I tried to ask you before but you didn't reply

Just don't forget about painting the exposed traces inside the CPU housing area with transparent nail polish!
This is standard procedure on all delids. And many people do not do this!

if someone is doing this for you, have them do this!! do not skip this step!!!

Even though this page is for i9's, still applies!!

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3068-how-to-delid-intel-i9-cpu-and-apply-liquid-metal

 

I have not received PM from you

Thx, I will tell him to do so...

 

@matyee I can't send you a PM becasue your profile does not allow people to contact you.

 

fixed, hopefully

 

Why not leave it unsealed for best temps?

 

@yrekabakery

Can't do that on laptop heatsink mountings. Heatsink would never even touch the CPU. You would need a shim for that and then you would have to balance it and not crack the core.
Zero benefit to this over using the IHS with liquid metal paste.

For lowest temps, if HS heat plate is copper or nickel plated copper (NOT aluminum, i don't know about nickel plated aluminum though, I wouldn't do it), you can use LM between CPU and IHS (both surfaces painted, not just CPU, that gives best temps), then LM also between IHS and heatsink (again, paint IHS and heatsink together). Need VERY highly compressible foam dams for that on LGA chips, though (K5 Pro or old Arctic Ceramique won't work for that).

like this:

 

Guys, @Izen got his NVMe problem sorted, but he has another issue with his 1070 GPU being unstable. It does not have the original vBIOS. If one of you that has the GTX 1070 with a stock 16L13 vBIOS can please dump the firmware and share it with Izen, it might help his GPU problem.

He has a thread here explaining the issue he is having. http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/help-with-msi-16l13-eurocom-tornado-f5.815155/

If the stock vBIOS does not fix the problem, he may have a defective GTX 1070.

 

I didn't mean bare die, I meant letting the heatsink's mounting pressure hold the IHS in place. Using adhesive between the IHS and package substrate still adds gap.

 

@yrekabakery

No gap if you use 4 small drops of RTV Silicone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3OSNZBUPOJ7AE

Read:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-intel-cpus/1313179-official-delidded-club-guide-3433.html
http://www.overclock.net/forum/5-intel-cpus/1313179-official-delidded-club-guide-3432.html

Gotta do your research, man!

 

why was that user afraid of popping the ihs off and "breaking the pcb" especially when using a delidding tool? did he use cement for ihs fixation or smth? lol

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@jaybee83 The user (matyee) bought the CPU (maybe the entire laptop, i don't know) second hand, and the first user used super glue to seal the CPU.
Super glue has caused things to break in the past.

 

This shows otherwise:

 

@yrekabakery

Why are you comparing a HDET chip with a consumer mainstream chip?
No one here cares about 7980X Delids, man.

If you want to use bare die and destroy your chip by cracking the die, go ahead. We aren't stopping you.
And next time use screenshots that actually mean something, instead of acting like a user here I won't mention.
To the IGNORE list you go!

 

8700K, 7700K, 7980XE, even a potato...results are the same. afaik deba8er sells a Direct die kit...and some old motherboards also have optional direct die protection kits. There is even a new direct die water block! Gapping also matters when remounting IHS its why rockit recommends gel glue dots.

 

Heat transfer wise, its obviously better by mounting bare die. Not sure why is there an argument about it.

 

@Kittys, my point is that this isn't rocket science. And people shouldn't be advocating for others to destroy their chips by direct die contact on laptops.
I'm not talking about desktops. That poster was claiming that that matyee had high temps becasue he didn't have a direct die delid. That's completely baloney and I'm going to say it.

@Mr. Fox is one of the most experienced users on this forum and even HE Doesn't use direct die contact on laptops. So what's with the hate on poor old Falkentyne? Because I'm a nobody who uses a BGAbook and who doesn't know how to mod?

And my original argument was about SUPER GLUE not being better than RTV Silicone.
And direct die being RISKY.

I don't remember stating that there is no difference in temps between direct die and IHS. At least I don't think I did. I remember stating that you don't NEED to do direct die for great temps.

Maybe I've been playing PUBG too much today. Too many shots to the head... I am a gamer......gaming is all I do.

*Edit* I should also add that desktop mounting systems are MUCH different than laptop mounting systems. MUCH higher static pressure involved. Not getting into water cooling, but I just don't think it's solid logic to use a desktop delidded 7980XE, using a desktop heatsink (or custom cooling) for any type of logical comparison with laptop heatsinks and their much lower static pressure mounting systems. But that's just me. Not trying to start a flame war. But @Mr. Fox and @Papusan are two of the most experienced users here. And they don't do direct die...

 

Show me where I said this.

Show me where I said this.

 

@Falkentyne after doing delied the CPU its required to put the glue around the corner or it will work with pressure of heat sink & socket lock ?


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@NIGHTMARE
Most experienced overclockers use this:

4 tiny dabs, one in each corner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3OSNZBUPOJ7AE

Much easier to remove than Super Glue. And if you did a bad delid job, you don't want something that could damage the PCB if you tried to remove it. It's just not worth going the "Easy way out". Super glue is the easy way out. Better to do things right rather than the easy way.

 

All BGA is direct die laptops have low pressure mounting 90% of time. The issue with protecting the die in a delid is that you would need to remove entire motherboard, install the die protection standoffs and its a hassle when its on a laptop.

 

Hmm, but aren't we talking LGA here for the Tornado F5 and EVOC 16L-G-1080?

 

@Kittys I agree, but this entire debate started because, Matyee had a VERY bad delid+paste done by the user he bought the CPU from. The IHS wasn't causing the high items. It was the absolutely horrific paste job that was done. Then he tried a properly repasted and delidded chip and got much lower temps, then he opened the first one and saw Papusan quality vomit porn It was THAT bad.

Then the other user suggested using direct die for lower temps...That had absolutely nothing to do with the problem. This thread got derailed into "let's get the lowest temps" instead of the original issue.
Going to play some video games.

*edit*
@Kittys Here is the original picture for reference.

 

Show me where I said this.

 

@Papusan should use this picture for his new vomit picture.

 

Nope, it's LGA, bruh. And the chips is saved. A lot worse with the BGA

 

Think so but we had to gang up on falk (love u falk</3)

Omg thats just...wtf that looks like a toddler did it!

 

@Kittys Ok let's get a nice looking picture for a change even though it's a BGA heatsink. It's still MSI and its my beautiful sanded heatsink for low core temp differences. So..halfway on topic?

 

To add my opinion on the topic, my research showed that gluing the IHS back down with a very thin layer of glue results in better temperatures than using no glue (so I glued mine) - this was based on HardOCP's testing, and I think this is just one article they did on the topic, there are others I haven't linked if I recall correctly:
https://www.hardocp.com/article/2017/02/21/relid_your_intel_cpu_on_cheap_no_delid_tools/
This is desktop testing though, and the arguments for gluing down the IHS was really to help prevent the CPU PCB from bowing under high mounting pressure & thereby causing worse contact - you generally don't get this high mounting pressure in laptop cooling systems so it's possible that PCB bending is a non-issue & therefore this advice is less relevant, but thought I would mention my findings anyway. (I used a lot less glue than they did over there on that HardOCP web page, I scraped the thinnest possible amount around the edges of my IHS using a tooth pic, and left a small portion without glue just like how Intel glue it down - to let air out when it expands & contracts with temperature changes.) I saw 15 degC lower temps with my delid (desktop, not notebook).

 

Well I'm think not put the glue.


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That is how I normally do it. With the IHS clamped in place there is no need for it. Using super glue is a bad idea. If you really feel that a relid is needed, just use four tiny dots of RTV silicon in the corners like @Falkentyne suggests and be happy. I have tried it both ways and the difference in temps is so close to the same that I find it difficult to draw a line in the sand. Using nothing is easier, but if you get clumsy and accidentally drop the IHS into the socket or onto the mobo it can cause severe damage, like bent pins, chipped PCB, dislodged or broken SMD components.

 

RTV make black spot same like super glue ? And again if IHS needed to remove than how easy it will be


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No, RTV silicon is easy to peel off. It does not stain or anything like that. It is easier to remove than the original black sealant that holds the IHS prior to delid.

 

I followed @Mr. Fox advice and used silicon as he does on my CPU. My 8700k was the first CPU I actually delidded myself and was nervous about something leaking out, or in my case what actually happened is as I was putting it in the socket and trying to attach my waterblock, I felt the IHS moving around and did not trust it and was afraid it moved too much or stuff leaked out the bottom. Used a little silicon on the corners and re-did everything and it's worth it for the peace of mind alone of knowing that if I tap my IHS during installation or flip it over on an angle or whatever, it will not move or shift or worry about anything moving. I know that it is solidly attached to the cpu, yet could be removed again if need be.

 

Which rig you used 8700K in?