*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

150 vbios runs about 1800mhz undervolted
And 61c at my modded laptop

200vbios runs about 1900mhz and 170watt
Undervolted at 68c.

If u rich more watt u have to face with high temps about 80c.
But the reason was I feel the stock vbios at my external monitor runs extremely smooth.

 

Oh mam thanks I will look for some user with it. I forgot they release new version with 10th gen and super gpus.
Thanks

 

Hi

Could you write me how did you flashed 200W vbios from GT76.
As I have just recieved 200W rtx2080super vbios from GT76 owner. I have flashed it with patched nvflash 5.590. And after flashing I cannot boot to Windows and I need to disable the card within the safe mode and reflash 150w vbios.
Already tried -6 option in nvflash and protectoff and -6
Also tried ddu for clean driver instal after flashing 200W vbios.
Any way nvflash is saying that flash was ok. Device manager is saying that device is working properly but for example gpu-z cant read the vbios version and clocks.
150W and 200W are only different in last 2 digits of subsytem id. I have never jad any problem with nvflash and stock vbioses.
So I am looking for solution.

 

I am running at normal rtx 2080.
I use this https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash-with-board-id-mismatch-disabled/
And the step I follow it's this.

 

Yeah I've asked him to follow this guide as well but it doesn't work.

The problem isn't the flashing, its because of the vbios. The new GT76's vbios is dgpu only unlike the old GT76 which had optimus.

 

It looks like new gt76 is non Gsync but dgpu?

 

Yes

 

Hello.

I'm thinking about buying an used MSI GE75 Raider 8SF, i7-8750H, RTX2070, 144Hz LCD for some 1100 Eur.

Can you still recommend this laptop today (re its performance and heat/throtlling), some tips what to look for?

Thank you.

 

Wait the 10th gen Intel GT76 doesn't have Optimus at all, or it allows switching to a dGPU only mode in Dragon Center like the GE66 and GS66?

I don't know anyone who has one so I've been wondering.

 

Dgpu only, no mux, no optimus.

Source : https://www.notebookcheck.net/MSI-G...op-Review-Late-Game-Exotic-Gear.496571.0.html

Old version : https://www.notebookcheck.net/MSI-G...op-Review-Late-Game-Exotic-Gear.496571.0.html

The far shorter battery life is a dead giveaway.

 

So I flashed 200w vbios on my RTX2080 9SG. After the new vbios were installed I was getting thermal limited at 80c whereas on stock vbios I wasn't getting thermal throttled until 95c. Figured I'd flash back and go stock vbios since I'm ok with 90c max as I game in my work truck most of the time and I accept I won't have optimum thermals. Well.. on stock vbios now.. it's still limiting me at 80c instead of the old 95c. Is there something I can change to raise thermal max throttle point or did something get screwy in the bios?

I checked gpu-z and firmware versions and confirmed the right bios were flashed each time

 

Well right now this I am setting. Finnaly runs super smooth and was from wrong settings.
Why u hit so high temps?
Dont let ur 200watt vbios runs at normal voltage.it runs really high about 1030 voltage.
I made 3 profile.
1 at 0,844 voltage and 1600mhzm
2 at 0,881 voltage and 1820mhz
3 at 0,950 voltage and 1950mhz.
Start up on msi afterburn and force voltage. And works with start up windows
The temps it's like was as stock vbios and at some games the frames got really good boost. Modern warfare at same place
Stock vbios not overclock. Max rtx on 130 frames.
200 vbios stock 153 frames ( pics on top)

 

The room I mainly use it in averages around 74°f so it's not optimum environment but the cooling fans still keep thermals under 90f when the stock vbios would allow 95c max. My main question here is why am I still being thermally throttled at 80°c when that was only supposed to be a limit on the modified/ 200w bios not the stock vbios I have now.

 

Huh, that's cool.

I might be going with a GE76 or GE77 next time (I'm assuming one is on the way, whatever they call it) , but the GT76 dropping Optimus is a good thing. The Optimus is the only downside to my GT76, but I can't complain since I got it for $2k instead of $3499 due to the MSI upgrade/trade in fiasco. Tbh I'd never buy a GT76 at full price, too ridiculous.

I'm hoping that by the time Nvidia comes with 5nm/Hopper, MSI has gone full G-Sync/Advanced Optimus across the entire line.

 

Keyboard lights might fail.

You will have to replace the fans. Not cheap but the price seems fair overall.

When the screen fails you have to use an external monitor. Keep that in mind with an used laptop.

You most likely should replace the thermal paste and get a cooling pad which you can rest the laptop on for additional ground clearance.

Best thing you can do is replace thermal paste and modify the bottom cover with custom fan grill.

EDIT: Maybe you can add 200-300€ for a new Laptop and wait a while for new iterations being released.

As I said before, the same CPU in a cheaper laptop paired with a RTX 2060 gives you 90% of the performance in 99% of the games out there. (Cheap guess)

You can unlock A LOT of performance by the CPU alone if you're not playing GPU bound games like RDR2 or Tomb Raider.

 

Does anybody have the 150w 2080 super vbios?This is one I haven't tried flashing over my max q yet so I figure it's worth a try.

Also can anyone clarify about the hybrid display vs dgpu only bios flashing...Since my ge66 is hybrid by default would I have to flash a hybrid bios?I can put it in discrete mode though and disable the intel graphics if that makes any difference.

 

Damn man i'm seeing so much wasted potential with a 200w gpu having to run them first 2 profiles haha..I can get my 105w max q running steady at less voltage and higher clocks then that..With that beast you should be able to hold atleast [email protected]@762mv or 1845-1860mhz@825mv because my neutered card has no problem with them clocks..I will get artifacts if I go any higher then them though haha.

 

I WILL LATER TODAY AT NIGHT PROVIDE YOU 150W VBIOS.

Stay tuned

 

Hello. Who faced the squeak of chokes. Is there a solution to the problem?

 

Anyone know where is the cable for microphone and camera on ge75 raider motherboard? I cant make it works even with fresh windows.

 

Thanks it's appreciated..Hopefully something comes from it haha.

 

150W rtx 2080 Super rom
https://www21.zippyshare.com/v/1ToY3BIG/file.html

 

Thanks!!I been wanting to mess around with this one.I'll report back if I can get it to work.

 

No problem, sorry for long waiting.

 

No problem I wasn't expecting it to work anyway..
It started off looking good but in the end the clocks locked up at 13xxMhz and I think memory did to at 7000mhz but didn't try adjusting in AB..I feel like there has to be a way get this thing out of safe mode..I'll try again later. I know geforce has little nvidia-smi support but worth a shot so ill see what I can get going with that.

 

The default clocks for this vbios are 1365MHz and 1560 boost. Memory are at default 7000MHz so in the end you have 14000MHz on memory.

I have been able to OC fully stable plus 170 on core and plus 1250 on memory on my rtx2080super which is giving me around 29.7K FS graphics. I can do 180-190 And up to plus 1350 on memory and this give 30K but sometimes it crash so I went down a bit.

Any benchmarks?

I am looking for working vbios with higher tdp like 160 170 180 190 200 W . For now i found some 200W vbioses but with no luck. If I fail to find working one I might go with shunt mod with 015mohm resistors that @seanwee told me to use to get 200W tdp

 

Nah I didn't even bother benchmarking.While the memory boost up to 7000mhz was nice the core clock stays locked in the 1300's.No boost under load except for spiked here and there that definitely aren't normal haha..My max q with regular boost will still perform much better then being stuck at 1365 So I flashed back and gonna keep searching for a way to get the clocks working normal..I feel like it's a driver issue because when I uninstalled it the 2080 super was still visible in hwinfo with a driver version that said nvidia forceware,anyway I ran the gpu z render test really quick without the normal driver installed and it showed the card boosting to the normal clocks..Haha I thought it was good after that but it locked up once I installed the regular driver.

And yea the 200w is probably your next step up..Just make sure your laptop can handle all that power so it doesn't fry anything important haha..

 

I had a 190w 2080super vbios from a dell but deleted it awhile ago I'll try and see if I can find it.

 

Would be nice if you could find it.

BTW I have also 200W RTX 2080Super vbios from GT76 Titan somwhere if you want to try but it is dgpu only and that is way it failed to work with my GE75 which is Optimus based. And also one vbios from Aorus laptop that should work with both configurations but it has target 150W and limit 200W according to the read from Tdp tweaker while The one from GT76 is 200W target and limit. But I need to find both if you want. If you try The 200W you should limit your voltage in afterburner as I am not sure if ge66 can handle it

 

Wow Kryzslaw.. thanks for mentioning that tidbit of info about the 200w vbios being DGPU only.. I didn't know that. After flashing those 200w vbios I have been running into display adapter errors and can only play certain games on the laptop screen, but everything works on hdmi connected devices.. I think I messed something up in the way optimus is working. Has anyone encountered this and know how to fix it? 3dmark and Modern warfare say no display adaptor found when trying to play on laptop screen. If I disable internal Intel GPU, the games load and run the RTX 2080, but the refresh rate is 1hz which I'm assuming means the internal gpu always drives the screen, the discreet card just does the maths.

 

Yea if you want to post it I'll give it a shot..I kniow how to lock the voltage low...I'm gonna make sure my cpu and everything is drawing as little power as possible to.I think this thing is like 230w all together but even with that the full 200 would probably fry my vrm's

That might of been the problem with the ge75 bios not being able to enter discrete mode caused it to lock up. when i flashed it..

 

@seanwee figured this out when he was trying to help me with aformentioned 200W vbios.
And we figured that old gt76 with rtx2080 was non Gsync but Optimus based while the new gt76 with super cards is non gsync but dgpu

 

So maybe try ge75 vbios in hybrid mode.

And here are the vbioses
https://www13.zippyshare.com/v/Nkf5aT0E/file.html

Check if there are Both vbioses

BTW if you try The Aorus vbios please tell me if it worked in Optimus mode as I didn't try to flash it as I didn't have time for now

 

Yea I was in hybrid mode the whole time I flashed the ge75 because discrete would black screen...That's the same one was working alright for a minute but in the end the clocks locked up at there base...I'm gonna hold off flashing anything else for now and just work on getting the clocks to boost normally with the 150w bios.
I'm also thinking about shunt mod with some conductive ink if I can find one with the right resistance but I'm trying to find more success stories first haha.

 

I have a question around power bricks.

I purchased a new GE75 10SFS on Saturday to replace my aging GT76 Dominator. A little while back I was having power issues with the GT76, so I bought a new power brick hoping that might help. So now I have two power bricks for the GT76. It was quite convenient having two, I found. One for my work from home office and one for our family room where I use my laptop while watching Masterchef or something with my wife.

Would I be able to use the GT76 power bricks with my new GE75? I am not that familiar with the compatibility of power bricks, but I jotted down the details:

GT76 brick:
AC INPUT 100-240 V`4 A 50-60 Hz
DC OUTPUT 20V 14A 280W

GE75 brick:
INPUT 110-240 VAC 50/60Hz 2.4A Max
OUTPUT 19.5 11.8A


Does anyone know if it would be safe to use the GT76 brick(s) with the GE75?


Thank you!

 

You can't mean "aging" GT 76 Dominator here, can you?

 

"Aging" for me, yes

I usually swap about every 4-5 years. Plus, it was having weird lock up issues if I punched a certain two keys in the middle..I think possibly F and G, somewhere around there. It would instantly lock up and require a forced power cycle.

Fixing a bad solder on the motherboard beneath the keyboard is beyond my capabilities. Plus, new laptops are fun.

It was about 4.5 years old. It had other issues too. Last year I paid $75 to have a solder fixed at the power input. And the battery is shot. It powers off after about 5 mins, even if idle.

Right now, it is serving as my Plex server.


I was very pleasantly surprised at how much power is packed into the GE75. It's about half as bulky and heavy as my Dominator was. I'm loving it so far.

 

The GT 76 hasn't even been out for 2 years, so I'm asking you to re-clarity which GT series laptop you own.

It can only be the 70, 72, 73, or 75.

 

Sorry, my mistake.

It is a GT72S-6QE

 

I was wondering if other owners find that these run kind of hot under light/non-gaming workloads?

Right now I am using it for work. Which for me means a few browser tabs, Outlook, and a few ssh terminals. My current temp is 57. After watching it all morning that seems to be about the average for this type of workload. Anywhere from 53 to 57 ish. As such, the fans are always running and can be heard.

I changed the profile in Dragon center to silent, but it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Is this pretty much normal for this model?


Also, I apologize for asking something that has probably already been asked by someone else. But this is a very long thread, and hopefully as a new owner, I may get a little leeway in asking some common questions. Hopefully

 

Yeah, thats pretty normal. I'm on stock paste, running a -.120 undervolt on the CPU, and dropped the core turbo's to 35. In general windows usage (web, emails etc) I'm usually around 45-55c for the CPU, depending on what I'm doing (approx 40c when fully idle). The CPU fan seems to start kicking in at around 50c in my experience, but only at about 2k rpm, sp not loud.
If I switch on the fan of my CMIII cooling stand then I can maybe knock a few C's off that temp. But usually I only turn on the cooling stand fan when I'm gaming as I don't want the extra noise otherwise.
Honestly that not bad. My wife HP's laptop roars like a banshee even under light windows usage, its mental.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I have a CMIII as well, but only use it when gaming too. I'd use it when working, but that added height while on a desk makes it uncomfortable for typing. I find the CMIII fans to slightly less loud than the laptop fans. Very marginally so, and may just be my imagination, but it could, at least, perhaps extend the life of some of the components in the laptop by running the fans in a relatively cheap cooling pad vs the internals of an expensive laptop. Does that make sense?

 

I use a separate keyboard, so my laptop sits on the stand the whole time. And I get your point, although for general usage, even using the fan in the cooling stand is not really going to stop the laptop fans from spinning up at all, as on light usage the fan from the cooling stand is only going to make a few degrees difference to the laptop temp. It helps a lot more under gaming loads though. Its also good at cooling the Samsung 970 EVO SSD I put it, which can get a bit toasty as well.

 

I have a Samsung 970 EVO to put in as well. It's in my old Dominator now, so I would be happy to swap between the two. I unscrewed all the screws, but damn, that is one tough rear panel to remove. I didn't have the heart to start stabbing at my brand new laptop with a guitar pick on the first day that I bought it. So I kind of shelved that idea for now.

I might even pick up another nvme gen3 for it. Those are not that expensive and way faster than a 2.5" SSD.

I just have to build up the gumption to get into the case.


Side note: I am not thrilled with the placement of the ports on this laptop. HDMI on the side is not great for using on a desk. I have a secondary monitor, so the HDMI snakes along the top of my desk while working leaving less space for pen, paper, coffee mug, etc. And the power also being on the side is pretty annoying. I never really thought about it as my Dominator has the ports on the back, so it was something I just sort of took for granted.

I found the ethernet port to be odd. I can't get an ethernet cable to snap in place. Maybe I need to try a couple of different ones. Not a big deal, as the wifi is plenty fast. Getting about 600 Mbps with it on my LAN. It could just be that newer devices have slightly different RJ-45 than what my patch cables were designed for. My Nvidia Shield TV is the same. I can't get an ethernet cable to snap in place in there either.

 

I actually did not even need to remove the little back plate to get my case cover off. Just worked around the sides of the main cover with a plastic tool, including where the main cover joins the piece at the back, and it came off ok in the end.

my network port the cable clicks in just fine, so maybe it’s your cable?

 

Would you happen to have any comment on my power supply question? Trying to see if it's safe to re-use my last MSI gaming laptop power supply with this new one:

GT72S brick:
AC INPUT 100-240 V`4 A 50-60 Hz
DC OUTPUT 20V 14A 280W

GE75 brick:
INPUT 110-240 VAC 50/60Hz 2.4A Max
OUTPUT 19.5 11.8A

 

Hmm well I'm not an expert, but given that the output voltages and amps are different, I would not risk it. Especially as the output from the GT72S brick is higher than for the GE75. Then again maybe others here more knowledgeable than me can be more specific.

 

If the plug fits it should be OK. A half Volt difference is nothing and the EC circuit doesn't allow more Amps input that specced.

 

Another question, do people update their MSI laptops? With my previous one, I found Windows Updates often to be a source of problems. My back lit keyboard would fail to work after updates so often that I just gave up on trying to make it work consistently.

I have yet to run a single search for updates on this new one, and I'm a bit hesitant to do any at all.

 

My keyboard lights failed a couple months ago but it had nothing to do with any Windows Update at that time. (As far as I could tell.) My guess is the RGB controller on the board failed due to high temperature under idle. 70+ degrees with custom fan curve in Silent Option Fan Control.

I'm probably wrong and it might be a software issue. But I wouldn't advice to put off Windows Updates since you'll be vulnerable to any script kiddie with access to the newest security exploit.

I always used Windows or Intel Updates for drivers and never had a problem. Using newest Nvidia Drivers from Geforce Experience, not the MSI ones. Works fine.

Only other thing giving me issues is the combination of Nahimic and Battlefield V sound. Often times the sound would fail ingame, so had to turn the sound off. Or deinstall Nahimic, which is not suitable. (Common problem with the Nahimic Drivers. Not related to Windows Updates.)