*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Maybe @Falkentyne can chime in.

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Got my laptop back from MSI, took around 4 working days.

The problem before sending was swelling battery causing the enter key, Fn key and Windows key and the trackpad failing to function.

They have swapped the whole surface where the key board, trackpad and power button are at.

Also the EC and BIOS are updated to the newest version.

But I've found more problem:

1. The lower case has actually have a small crack due to the swelling battery.
2. 4 keys (2 / Rightside's Alt, Fn and Ctrl) were not lighting up on the newly replaced key board under any mode in SteelSeries software, reinstalled, same thing again.

So I've arranged another RMA.

Hopefully back soon again.

 

For those in Australia. GS65 with 15% discount on eBay.

Just picked up a 2060 for $1800US or about $2500 AU

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Installing another SSD in this laptop was not fun, it's way too delicate

Managed to damage a few clips near the hinge Legit with all those screws they don't need clips everywhere it's not like the laptop doesn't creak when you look at it. Not looking forward to a RAM upgrade

Why is Slot 0 the empty one and not Slot 1, my poor ocd

Nobody has any idea why the package wattage isn't going past 20W/2.9GHz when playing AC Odyssey? GPU usage isn't maxed out and nothing is limiting in XTU

 

So I´ve made a mistake and updated the firmware to the latest version. (16Q2EMS1.107) I noticed the fan speed has much more increased now, by just browsing the web and watching some movies. It wasn´t that loud on the previous firmware. The fan is almost every time noticeable now.
Is there a way to downgrade?

 

You can flash an earlier build, I think someone posted one a few days ago.

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I guess it's this one right? Just flash it like a normal firmware? And it's for the 1070 model right? Just going sure. Thanks!

 

I suggest you download directly from MSI.

Links below:
GS65 8RF BIOS

E16Q2IMS.10A
E16Q2IMS.10B
E16Q2IMS.10C
E16Q2IMS.10D
E16Q2IMS.10E
E16Q2IMS.10F
E16Q2IMS.105
E16Q2IMS.107
E16Q2IMS.110
E16Q2IMS.111

GS65 8RF EC

16Q2EMS1.103
16Q2EMS1.104
16Q2EMS1.105
16Q2EMS1.106
16Q2EMS1.107

 

@Skylake_ sticky this!

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Added to 2nd post. What do you mean with "stick"? Is there a nicer way to bump a post?

 

It didn't take, you could just link to the post#

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http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10877604

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Ok Tapatalk is kidding me; I'm definitely updating the first and second post in the morning ( = in 8 hours because I'm coming back home by Intercity Night train and my baby GS 65 is at home, and this stupid browser on the phone doesn't want to open the forum properly).

Thank you in advance for the suggestion and the tag to let me be updated

 

@xLima should I also stick / add to OP this or it's outdated?

 

Hackness is complete, more secure. I will download in case link breaks in the future and upload to drive. Probably just best to keep Hackness' links only.

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Hey guys, could the fact that i am on single channel affect my Physics score on FS? I went from a GTX 1070 32 GB (2*16) RAM to a GTX 2060 16GB (1*16) RAM single channel

 

Yeah, single channel affect the Physics score.

 

Anyone else having keyboard not detected issues in the SteelSeries engine 3.13.9?

What keyboards do you all have under Device Manager\Keyboards?

Mine reads HID Keyboard Device and Standard PS/2 Keyboard. I could have sworn there's was the per key rgb reading too but the driver's disappeared.

Keyboard still works and lighting is there, but can't change the profile or configure alas.

 

Hey guys,

I have a huge fan problem with my MSI, it's been making an incredible rattle noise (very very loud, I hear the fan spinning completely, it's awful) since yesterday. It's really not "just the huge noise from fans" that we usually have when I put the fans at 100%-150%. It's something else entirely, almost like the fans hit something everytime it rotates.

I opened the computer (just opened the back, did not "turn" what was inside), it seems to be the GPU fan: when i put compressed air onto it to make it rotate, the noise also appear (but less loudly).
My fan seems relatively clean (and I cleaned it partially), so I don't know where it's coming from, maybe it's missing some oil? (but then I don't know how to do)

I have two questions:
- Do I need to RMA the computer to fix it ? Or can I do it myself easily? Does any of you ever experience this?
- If I need to RMA, I cannot do it this week (I need my computer), can I just desactivate the GPU fans for a week ? (anyway my GPU is never getting over 60 degres, I'm not playing). With the CPU fans only will it be sufficient?
Btw, I tried to put the GPU fans at 0% in dragon center, it works for a moment but then they launch again at somepoint (not even particularly high temperature). So I figured there was some overriding procedure in the Bios, but could not find anything fan related in my bios to desactivate it completely. Do you guys know how to do?

Thanks in advance.

 

Which fan is it? The red or Gray/black one?
AliExpress sells that whole piece for like $40.00.

You may be able to find cheaper on eBay . Probably faster than RMA.

But I would RMA if it was me.

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The red one. Yeah I'd rather RMA and not do some ******** with it. Or maybe I can go to a local informatician that would do it faster.

 

Hi guys,
I am in a really stupid situation with my laptop after RMA'ing for the second time. The vendor says that i, solely, have to explain how these problems with my laptop are not just me experiencing them. Can someone agree on at least some of the following things?

LCD is crooked with the bezel and frame, which it was not before. AND the top left corner of the bezel is sticking out, and cannot be pushed back in. Screen cover is still not 100% straight.

BENT Case (laptop has a bananaform...)

Touchpad Is now crooked after the first repair and is not lining up with the case. When moving the case in a specific way, there now also comes a click noise, as if you were pressing the touchpad. Since the touchpad is uneven, it also double-clicks in certain areas of it.
The click noise mostly comes when placing the laptop on a lap and giving it a bit of pressure by placing your wrist rests on the laptop.

KEYBOARD gets miscoloured over time - like f.x. the red LEDS almost don't work...

FANS: hav a whine on the CPU side. Have seen videos of the same exact laptop where it is not noticeable at all, where mine stands out clearly. One of the fans by GPU are also not stable, which causes them to vibrate.

Powerbutton is not working 100% of the time. I have to press it on the left side of the button for it to work. Even after only pressing the left part of the button it still does not work every time.

Are not lining up with the cut-outs in the case after the replacement of case. Has resulted in the case bumping out on the side, because of the line in/out pushing it out.

Sound issues: when changing volume up and down using headphones (Comes mostly with music or sound effects with more noticeable bass).
Similar things happen with the speakers, when either play/pausing or turning volume up/down - speakers crack.
This problem still appears after getting a clean install of Windows 10 and installing the proper Realtek/Nahimic drivers from the MSI support website.

I know this can be RMA'ed, but i'm sick of having to send a laptop in for repair where the service center DIRECTLY IGNORES your fault description. I made a mistake to begin with and not just through my vendor, as we in Europe have extra rights with RMA's through vendors...
It would help alot if some of you just said that you had experienced at least one of these things .

 

I just received a 2018 gs65 with 1070maxq. I am extremely impressed with everything but the exterior design. I will return it due to the weird look with the gold accents. Maybe next time MSI, please make a notebook for western grown-ups

 

I think it looks very tasteful and classy personally compared to the red accents they used to have.

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Oh yes, huge step up, but frankly not enough for "dual use". You wouldn't want to use a Nissan Skyline instead of a Mercedes or BMW to pick up clients for a work meeting. Great car nonetheless.

 

Only on AC, my GS65 makes this weird noise:
https://vocaroo.com/i/s0yets1ma1re
Is this normal?

 

My two GS65 8SG's 230W adapter finally arrived, confirmed that the GS65 8RF can also use them, my other machine Clevo P150EM can also use it (the tip is 5.5mm * 2.5mm, standard tip for 180W PSU), nice upgrade 180W → 230W on the PSU for both of my laptops, was quite a hassle when buying from MSI in Taiwan though, they sent me the wrong adapter with different tip first time, went back to them and done the right way this time.

My GS65 8RF RMA just came back today, but this one really gives me headache, my history of RMA is as the followings:

1. First time RMA sent in because of a swelling battery making the keyboard and track pad to fail, came back with new keyboard but 4 keyboard lights are dead.
2. Second time RMA sent in because the 4 keyboard lights were dead, came back with a Spanish Keyboard That's a really big mistake they made. And even on that Spanish keyboard, 2 keyboard lights were dead.
3. Now sending in for the 3rd time, now this feels like playing lottery...

Maybe MSI wants me to learn some Spanish, I'm OK with that just no time for that now though.

 

Maybe they will go through all the stock and offer an RTX.

How much lighter/smaller is the power brick. Cost?

Think it would be worth the extra money for greater portability (assuming it's lighter/smaller)?

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I think this new adapter worth the money.

Costs around 53.38USD per one as of the current exchange rate on my end (Google exchange rate NTD to USD @ 0.032356).

The GS65 230W feels about 1.5 times heavier than the GS65 180W, but the GS65 230W weight feels about the same as the old P150EM 180W adapter, I don't currently have a weight scale available right now so this is all I can provide.

Dimension comparison:

Note that all the tip head are the same, 5.5mm * 2.5mm with no pin in the hole.

 

@xLima, Well, I went ahead an ordered another tube of Thermal Grizzly, I had a credit in ebay I had to use before it expired, so I re-pasted yesterday. This time I used the "Gob" method meaning I laid it on thick, I also put a layer on the copper part of the heatsink and then let it cure for 24 hours before turning it on. I have noticed the paste thickens somewhat so rather than fire it up right away I waited. Lastly, my previous teardown to repaste resulted in me finding a tiny washer after I put it together, I had no idea where it came from. I thought, maybe it was used on the heatsink to apply more pressure, I have no idea if that was the case but I went ahead and put it on the screw closest to the pads that seem to be causing contact issues between the heatsink and cpu die. It was a very thin washer. I have yet to run stress tests but I did notice a drop in idle temps. I'm currently at 28C at idle which is about a 2C drop from previous paste job. On startup, temps always briefly spike and looking at Throttlestop the difference in core temps was 6C from lowest to highest, this is also an improvement from 9-10C before. So far so good, on to the stress testing.
Goal is to get max temp down to 85C (was 90) in Aida with a difference between highest and lowest of no more than 8C (was 10-12) using a 35 multiplier on all cores with fans on turbo and NO cooler under the unit. This would allow me to play COD without throttling and without adding the weight of the cooler to my lap. Fingers crossed!

 

No improvement at all under stress testing, actually worse. At some point I'll try another re-paste, this time putting on as thinner coat and trying to get it more even, this attempt was a complete failure. Max temp went up 3C and larger difference in temps between cores 12C

 

FYI, if I ever figure out how to get this paste job correct, based on the 3 cores that are performing well, Max temps of 80C under stress should be achievable. This is frustrating, if anyone has any ideas how to get better contact to cool all the cores rather than half of them it would be much appreciated.

 

I bent that solitary heatsink arm upwards (towards you, away from die). That helped initially, but eventually it wears off.

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This one (circled)?

 

Apparently I have been making a mistake in my thinking, can someone confirm this is correct, GPU on left, CPU on right?

 

Yes top one

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Correct

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Sorry this is the one

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Thanks for the reply. Not sure I'm seeing what you bent but I'm guessing it goes back to the thermal pad problem above the cpu causing the bad contact, or we assume. I also saw the Reddit post about thermal pad replacement and trying .5mm instead of 1.0mm pads above the heat sink. That reddit post also had a reply saying the .5mm did not make contact with the heat sink nor did it solve the problem for the poster. I saw you were commenting on that thread. So, I know you have done messing around with the pads. What is the verdict on replacing the 1mm with .5mm? Did you do this? Did it help? Did you go with 1mm and then try and bend the heat pipe? or go with .5mm and bend the heat pipe?

I ordered new thermal pads since I need to break in it again I figured why not change them too. I also did not put the washer on the correct screw to try and get more pressure on the cpu since I had the cpu and gpu confused.

In sum,
what thickness thermal pads do you recommend above the cpu? and is that why you bent the heat pipe?

I'll get this solved sooner or later. Right now I'm in limbo since I want to play COD and Temps reached 95 on AIDA stress test with full fans and 35x on all cores. That tests temps pretty much line up with what I get playing COD, I need to get max temp down to 90 or I'm not playing. Really sucks that when I got it back from repair it performed better. I was extremely careful taking it apart and re-pasting so other than that mysterious washer I found I have no idea why the factory repair performed better. I do know its possible to get all cores within 7-8C of each other and max temps to 90 or better. It makes sense that adding the washer under the correct screw could help with the contact. Something you may want to try too. Do you recall seeing a washer on any other screws during your tear downs? WHen I found it I first thought it may have been on the screw for the wireless card, almost put it there then decided not to and set it aside

 

I did not find a washer anywhere.

Also I am xPPK in reddit. I went back to 1.0mm pads above CPU. I bought pressure paper and saw no real difference with fit with and without pads.

I bent the arm based on a recommendation by a forum member who used this method to "fix" an issue with an Alienware laptop that suffered from 20°C differential (the fix was posted by iUnlock and he was interviewed by OwnorDisown YouTube channel). It helped me a bit. I got it down to maybe 8 degrees, but the fix isn't permanent.

The only real way to know if removing pads for you will work is with pressure paper.

Purple means contact, darker means greater contact and lighter or white the opposite.



This is the visual representation of why we have the core differential.

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I remember seeing your posts on that pressure paper test. Guess I'll stick with 1mm, bend something and use a washer. Are all the thicknesses correct in that old reddit thread, I did see some other threads that mentioned different thicknesses. The picture from the reddit thread is below

Can you post a better picture of what you bent? Is it just the really thin piece that has a screw at the end of it?

Also, in the pic, the circled in red part, is that paste? Should I replace that? If so with what? This will be the 5th time I've been inside and I keep wondering about that. That should clear up all my questions before the next re-paste. I am starting to wonder if I should go with IC Diamond on the cpu but since I bought 5.5 grams of Thermal Grizzly, I'm gonna try that again.

 

@xLima I REALLY appreciate your help, not many people left on this thread responding. THANKS!

 

Yes that's paste.

My HS has that screw covered. But it's that screw the one out have to bend. Sorry I don't have more recent picture. I have since cut that silver bit so I can access the screw.

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@xLima here's a better/biggerpic of the heatsink to point out what you bent

 

Bent towards you, away from CPU die.

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was it just that littl

Ok, got it, thats what I thought, kinda the same idea as putting a washer under that screw to force more pressure. I'll do both, extremely small bend and add the washer and see if that helps. BTW, never used whatsapp but you have answered all my questions. Let me know how you make out when you get your paste, It will be another week or more before I do another repaste, need to wait for thermal pads to arrive.

 

I did repaste but didn't report it.

Surprisingly temperature is a bit worse with TG Kryo, however Benchmarks scores higher. It still reaches 90 occasionally.

Makes little sense to me.

I did TG CPU and CM everything else because I bought 1gram syringe of TG and had like 5g of CM.

Overall I opted to stay with TG on CPU.

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Oh, that part I circled that you said is paste, should I also repaste that? have you?

 

Yes repaste it.

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Did you run an AIDA64 stress test? If yes, what max temp did it record, if not can you run one and let me know? I ran AIDA with 37,37,36,36,35,35 multipliers, full fans and reached 95C within 5 minutes. 3 cores reached over 90, the other 3 were around 80 max, I used the following test: