*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

1. TG - AIDA64
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Are there any benefits by using the 230 Watts Power Brick for the MSI GS65 8RF 2018 Model instead of the original 180W one?

 

Not an expert here but MSI limits the power draw in the bios, so unless you do some tweaks that are gone over in detail earlier in this thread, probably not. Also, as you may have saw, temps are the primary concern I have with this unit and increasing the power draw will increase temps. You may score higher in the benchmarks but the real test is playing your favorite games and seeing if you get frame rates and gameplay that satisfies you. I believe there is a sticky link on page 1 regarding getting the most out of your cpu, again, not sure if the power brick is necessary if you do the other tweaks. Get your temps under control first!

 

Depends on your use, as battery charging below 80% will require additional 37W from the adapter, I use battery extensively so often when I get home and fire up a game, the battery life is below 80%, which means it is going to need more than 180W if I want both the CPU and GPU to have enough juice while it is charging under 80% for the battery life (CPU 45~65W (Once undervolted peak is around 65W) + GPU 80~100W (Peak can reach 100W) + Battery 37W + Screen and other component maybe 5~10W + External hard drive and etc). When you ran out of juice, you might start seeing that the screen dims for a few seconds, if you see that it means you need a bigger charger.

 

Hey Hackness, you bought the 8RF chargers or the slimmer/newer 230W RTX GS65 charger?

Seems the new ones have smaller profile.


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Hi all,

This morning got a blue screen (System thread exception not handled) and after the reboot the hdmi port starts going crazy. Changed the cable and monitor but same results. Other ports are still ok. Any ideas to try or will it be RMA?

Thanks!

 

The one I bought is for GS65 8SG, the one with RTX 2080 Max-Q, I had to look for the full code name for it when I was purchasing from the MSI, like for Taiwan version the full code name is GS65 8SG 075TW, that's what you will want to give to MSI when looking for a specific type of Adapter.

I tried giving them the adapter code name A17-230P1A before, but they said they cannot find the adapter with only the code name of the adapter.

 

Yesterday I also got a random Bluescreen with the same Error Code... It couldn't even restart on its own at 100% so I had to force crash it. It booted fine though... I'm using Displayport and there the Picture is still clear too. But no Idea why that crash happened. I mean I literally have done nothing... it was sitting at Idle in Chrome...

 

I solved this mystery... It was not due to the fact that they forgot to reconnect something. They forgot something else at the service center. They forgot to flash the product name into the BIOS when they changed the motherboard. If I update my Dragon Center or Steelseries app, they won't work (in Dragon Center it says "Please change product name"). The explanation is that the applications "don't know" the model of the computer, and thus they cannot function properly. I have contacted MSI, and a BIOS update won't fix it. Therefore I have to send it to the service center again :/ . Luckily, they have agreed that I can wait until the semester is done at my university. I have considered to fix it myself but it involves modyfing the BIOS, and I don't want to touch that with an expensive laptop like this one.

This is called "coil whine". Some units have it, others don't. It doesn't affect performance or anything, but some people find it annyoing. The CPU on my unit does not suffer from it but my previous CPU did. If there is nothing else wrong with your PC, I wouldn't worry about it since it is a small issue in my opinion. The sound occurs when the CPU works hard. When you charge the computer, the CPU will automatically increase the clock speeds and that's why you are hearing it. If you put it into ECO mode in the Dragon Center while it is charging, the sound will dissapear because then you 'force' the CPU to 'relax', and it decreases the clock speeds to a level which is similar to when you are on battery.

 

Hey all - new to the forum. I've been searching and searching but have not been able to find an answer to this issue. I keep getting an Intel RST error and MSI tech support has been useless.

System: MSI GS65 Stealth Thin 8RF 259 (32G RAM, 1 TB RAID 0 (Dual 512G SSD), GeForce 1070 w/ Max-Q)

Issue: I will occasionally get an RST error with one drive or the other and the system will BSOD. Upon restart, it boots directly to BIOS. There is an RST error and one of the drives will be in 'Failed' mode. I cannot reset the failed drive in the BIOS, and I cannot boot because the RAID drive is also the system drive.

This has happened on 3 (!) systems while setting them up (installing programs, copying files, etc.) all within the first 72 hours. The first two I returned immediately. The last one I've held on to because I can't believe 3 different systems would have the exact same issue. I have thoroughly checked for viruses, etc. and there is nothing. The programs I'm installing are very basic - MS Office, one game (Zwift), Trend anti-virus suite, etc. Also allowing the system to perform all updates, using the most up-to-date drivers, etc. In every case the system totally hung.

Current workaround: I created a Win10 bootable USB that allows me access to RST so I can reset the failed drive. This allows me back into the system for a period (generally a few hours). Sometimes I just work from the USB disk since I don't experience the failures there (and if I did, I could easily repair them).

Things I've tried:
1) Updated all drivers beyond the MSI options. I've even updated the Samsung SSD's firmware. None of these things helped.
2) Reinstall the system via rescue disk after re-creating the RAID0 disk - This ran for just over 3 weeks before getting the error again.
3) Reinstall Win 10 completely from scratch after re-creating the RAID0 disk - This is what I'm currently running. It also ran for just over 3 weeks before giving me the RST error.

I'm not a heavy gamer, I just wanted a powerful system so I could run multiple virtual machines when I'm working with different clients. The system is hardly even stressed. I haven't overclocked or anything.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? I'm experimenting with various settings (e.g. cache) to see if this affects anything but so far the system eventually give me the BSOD.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

As a follow-up - my next move will be to separate the 2 disks and remove the RAID. I'm sure this would fix the issue but then I need to deal with separate drives. Not sure what else I can do to ensure dependable system.

 

Finally! I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one. Had my motherboard replaced for a broken headphone jack of all things. Just pulled out with the headphone plug one day.

Thanks for posting this man, I've been driving myself crazy trying to track down the source of the issue after countless SteelSeries engine re-installs and driver changes. The same "Please change product name" and the same serial number FFFFFFFF issue. I thought it was the SteelSeries update that broke it, but turns out it's the repair center forgetting to flash things properly.

Would you be able to tell me what the reply you got from MSI said? Was it just along the lines of "Send it back to us?"

Thanks again for the followup man.

 

I'm glad that I could help! And yeah, - my serial number is FFFFFFFFF as well.

Here is the message that I received from them:
"Sorry about that.
You need to contact the service center and ask them to help you flash the marketing name.
Thanks & Best Regards,
MSI Notebook Technical Application Department"

If you want a temporary fix you can restore the computer to the factory settings. For some reason the stock drivers work fine! Therefore I will wait to send it to service because I need my PC for university at the moment.

 

QUESTION. What has been everyone's experience with MSI updating drivers? I see new versions of the touchpad, steel series engine and several newer graphics drivers yet their website has not listed any of those. I want to stick with "official drivers", in fact, I did try to update Nvidia and got a "not compatible" error.

 

Did you do a fresh OS install? I had the same issue, updating the drivers manually did the trick.

 

Could anyone with a GS65-8RF 1070 tell me what your BIOS gives as the Marketing Name and Model Name values on the very first screen?

Mine at the moment says:
Marketing Name Please change product name
Model Name MS-16Q2


The repair center forgot to flash it correctly when changing the motherboard so I'm taking it back to them, however I wished to check what values others have in those fields, i.e. is it just "GS65" or "GS-8RF" or a full model name like "GS65 Stealth Thin 8RF-203AU" ?

Cheers

 

My one says:

Marketing Name: GS65 Stealth Thin 8RF

Model Name: MS - 16Q2

 

If you want to mostly stick to the MSI Drivers, I would recommend you to get the "MSI Driver & App Center" on the MS Store. There you can update your MSI Software and Drivers.

But I had the best experience with updating Nvidia and Intel Drivers manually to their most recent versions. Also the Steelseries Engine should prompt you to update it, whenever an update is there.

The only drivers that I saw MSI "updated" were the Killer Drivers and I think the Synaptic Touchpad driver. And the only driver fu**up I've ever encountered on this device was, when Window Update thought it knows better and replaced the Intel DCH driver with a legacy one. Gotta love Microsoft!

 

Oh boy. As much force as the headphone jack takes to plug and unplug things, I'm a bit nervous about that. :/

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Hi,

I have an MSI GS65 and in black ops 4 when I play with the laptop screen it is perfect but when not:

- By DisplayPort 1440p 144hz monitor, it gives me more than 70 fps but it is not fluid like stumbled.

- By HDMI to 1080p 60Hz monitor, it gives me more than 110 fps but it is also not fluid.

Temperature is always at 88ºC degrees. Thermal throttling?But the why all those fps?...

Any ideas what can it be?

Thanks !!

 

Did you set the external monitor as primary?

 

Yes I have, but when I am with my 2 external monitors I close tje laptop tap.

But yes, anyway, the external monitor is set as primary screen.

 

Sounds like you have frametime problems. Try limiting your FPS with Riva Tuner. Maybe turning V-Sync on could help a little too.
You should also check your CPU temps. It's possible that it fluctuates and hits thermal throttling here and there.

 

I have G-sync.

I have just notice that fps go from 50 to 120, and keeps repeating each 3 seconds, and with the gpu at 89ºC I think it is thermal throttling.

 

89°C is definetly too high for the gpu I think. My GPU stays somewhere between 70 and 80°C.
Maybe you should make your Fan-Curve a bit more aggressive. Also it helps to let the lid open, since the GS65 uses the upper side of the base as an air intake aswell.
And definetly try to let your Notebook constantly get fresh air.
Sometimes if placed close to a wall or corner, notebooks start to suck in the warm air they just got rid of, which in turn over a period of time makes the themps go higher and higher. I use a Coolpad for this exact reason and it definetly helps. Or just fibd a better place to put it to.

 

I have put it in cooler boost mode and omg... that was another story jajaja, thanks!!
Now I will modify the fans profile for gaming.
Stock fan mode definetly not recomended for gaming yes.

I am going to try some undervolting, and I will comment the results.

Still there is something strange, because with 75ºC temperature and 80 fps and still the game is stumbled not fluid.

 

If you get 80 fps with stutter, try to limit the fps to 75 or 70 fps. Maybe that will help.

Once you solve the Temp Problem, most of your problems should go away normally.

If your CPU is at stock, there could still lie a few problems there. Undervolting it will help for the start, but following Hackness Guide will bring in the best results in that department.

At stock, the Notebook agressivly clocks all cores at 3.9GHz. With load on those cores and a stressed GPU in that slim formfactor, throttling is almost guaranteed.

I would recommend you to undervolt you CPU and limit the Turbo max clock to something like 3.2GHz. You wont notice much difference in gaming, but throttling should be almost gone with that (and a modified fan curve).

This is Hackness guide:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...trol-of-the-i7-8750h-advanced-version.823065/

If you're ready to get your hands dirty on the Bios, I've already seen the unlock comb a few times in this thread. If you can't find it, you also can go to the Arch Linux Wiki of the MSI GS65. I saw the combo there too.

 

Need to improve cooling, or turn down graphics quality.
To improve cooling, you can repaste, and add notebook cooler.

 

This is the exact same behavior I've had with the GS65's older brother, the GS63. I believe that the GPU heat load is saturating the common heat sink, causing the CPU package to be hotter. Undervolting the CPU by itself helped a little, but 90 to 93 watts of GPU load have to go somewhere. I chose a maximum GPU clock that would still meet my needs, and flattened the curve.

I actually followed @B0B 's video guidance below:

 

1) I have adjust the fan speed curve.
2) Undervolt CPU y GPU by - 0.150 both.

Now I am playing in 2K on my external monitor on medium-hight settings at 60 fps in resident evil 2 and black ops 4 without any problems. AWESOME.
With the laptop screen 1080p in ultra settings.

The is none thermal throttling on GPU. There is some thermal throttling on CPU when running stress tests but so little, not relevant.
The fan is louder while playing but I can live with it.

I did replace the stock thermal paste by liquid metal two weeks ago and by now there is no problem.

 

Hey guys, I know this is slightly off-topic... But re: the GE63 2019...

There seems to be barely any coverage on this beautiful Mystic RGB laptop with a full RTX 2080, even on Notebookreview, which I'm really surprised by. I've got a GS65 2080MQ but I'm tempted by what seems to be better build quality, better speakers, an SD card slot, a better screen (3ms), a FULL 2080, and that amazing RGB lid, but I don't see many impressions from this year's model. Since it's 15 inches it doesn't seem to be too much heavier, either (one pound extra, I think?)

Anyone know how they might compare? Any owners willing to talk about theirs?

 

Flashed my GS65's GTX1070 Max-Q into a full GTX1070 mobile, result isn't too bad:

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34713971?

Core clock is lowered and limited to low voltage to keep the TDP around 100W.

Core Max = 1582MHz @ 0.762V
Memory = +800MHz

Peak Wattage during a Fire Strike Bench = 100.890W

Now the 230W adapter really comes in handy.

 

If power isn't an issue, can the GPU perform equally the same as a true GTX 1070 mobile?

 

Hey Hackness mind posting the GPU-Z for both. Wanted to know how much can vary for successful flash.

I have a few 2060s but memory (manufacturer), or subvendor don't match so hesitant to try.

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I did this a few weeks back, but couldn't keep temps down long term, so went with a 90W vBIOS instead. How are your temps in long time GPU usage?

*UPDATE* I tried the 120W vBIOS again and edited the GPU curve manually. That took care of my GPU temps and can still hold high clocks.

Below are 120W, 90W, and 80W, in that order. The 120W can hold 1834MHZ @ 875mV @ 77C. What seems to be most important for the cross-flash is the size of the vBIOS. For the 2018 GS65, when you export the vBIOS it is 166kb and accepts 166kb vBIOS of 90W and 120W.







If those images don't load for you, try here https://imgur.com/gallery/iYNlzzc

 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34722576?

This one was 1733MHz max @ 0.843V peaked @124.840W

Yes but I don't dare to do that, consider that the GS65 has fewer R22 regulators on the board, it can still perform like a normal mobile GTX1070, but for the long run, probably a little risky, worst case would be the regulators go kaboom.

Therefore I'll be sticking to the 1582MHz max @ 0.762V peaked @100W for the long run.

When I get back to home later tonight I'll take some screenshots, the vbios I used has the same ID as the GS65 GTX1070 max-Q but the board ID is different, you'll need to use the modded nvflash to bypass the board ID check to flash it. File size is important here, otherwise you might activate Falcon reset.

You can find the NVFLASH that bypass the board ID here: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/bios-modding/

Thanks stranula,

Yes size matters here, I'm using the MSI GTX1070 mobile from GE73, which has a file size of 166KB, matches the VBIOS pulled from the GS65.

I've cross flashed the one from Razer blade 15 provided by @Joikansai , which has a file size of 233KB, but it was without a success, falcon reset was activated, no access to the EEPROM through NVFLASH until few more restarts to flash back to the working VBIOS.

Temp goes up to 80C on my GS65 for the 1582MHz @0.762V @100W when playing Anthem.

 

Hi @xLima ,

This is the screenshot requested by you, sorry it took a bit of time, had to find some time to flash back to old vbios to take the shot.

GS65 GTX1070 original 80W vbios:


GS65 GTX1070 Max-Q flashed to Full GTX1070 mobile:


I obtained my vbios from techpowerup's vbios collection, what I did was search to the vbios size similar to your machine's original vbios, file size and the supported ram info are shown on the collection page too.

The one I tried on my GTX1070 Max-Q is this one, from MSI, TDP limit 115W: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/206876/206876

 

Hey guys, It seems that recently people started flashing their gtx 1070 max q to make it a full blown 1070 mobile.
Is there a guide to follow? Or anything I should consider before doing this? And is there a way to limit the watt if I flash a 100 watt vbios for example?

Up to now, I know that the VBios size should be 166kb and obviously be for the gtx 1070 mobile. Anything else I need to care for?

I found a Clevo VBios which has a more recent Bios Build date, but has a different Subsystem ID, would that not work then?

Sry for so many question, but I don't really want to fry my device.

Oh and, do I need to change anything on the normal Bios if I decide to flash? (Max allowed watt usage for example)

 

I have these 2 but hesitant to try based on differences in memory , subvendor, device ID , etc

Lower clock is GS65, Higher clock is ROG STRIX II.

Would appreciate some feedback.

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Sorry for double post, Tapatalk app won't let me edit

MSI GS65 is 80W
Asus 90W

Also the highest scores in Firestrike for RTX 2060 is held by a Razer Blade with scores matching 2070 and 2080. And that also seems to be an 80W variant from the various GPU-Z screenshots and ROMs I have gathered.

Not sure how they managed that feat, really impressive.

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This is quite confusing this time with a lot gpu varieties out there maxq, maxp, full mobile but if you comparing from one brand (i know only Blade) it should be a difference, 2060 won’t reach 2070maxq and 2080maxq performance. This is the comparison. About clock 2060 i saw different default clock (not 1100 though but higher than yours a bit) and chip memory manufactur also from micron on Blade 2060.

 

///////////////////////////////WARNING!/////////////////////////////////////

VBIOS flashing always comes with a risk of bricking.
I do not hold responsible to anything if anything happens!

///////////////////////////////WARNING!////////////////////////////////////

==============Chapter 1: Backing up the vbios / Flashing the vbios ================

First of all you need go here:
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/bios-modding/

and download the NVFLASH with Board ID mismatch disabled.

Extract it to some where like C:\

And then run cmd as administrator.

Let's say you have downloaded one named nvflash64_patched_5.541.0 and you have extract it to C:\

input the followings in the cmd:

cd C:\nvflash64_patched_5.541.0\

Enter nvflash64_patched_5.541.0.exe --save GiveName.rom

Replace the GiveName with whatever name you want to give to it.

It'll start saving the vbios.

once it is done, type exit to exit the cmd.

Now explore to C:\nvflash64_patched_5.541.0\

You should see the .rom file you have just backed up.

Look for the file size.

For GS65 1070 Max-Q you should see 167KB.

Well we are doing the above just to make sure yours is really 167KB and also to leave an original back up.

If it is 167KB,

Go to here: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/206876/206876

Download the vbios,

the size of the vbios found in the link should be 166KB.

As long it is within 166~167KB they should be fine, if it is less or more than that then I have no idea.

Rename the vbios to whatever you feel the most comfortable to see.

Move the full GTX1070 mobile vbios to C:\nvflash64_patched_5.541.0\

Let's say you have named it GTX1070_115W.rom

Now, open up device manager and disable the GTX1070 Max-Q

And then Run cmd as administrator.

input the followings in the cmd:

cd C:\nvflash64_patched_5.541.0\

Enter nvflash64_patched_5.541.0.exe -6 GTX1070_115W.rom

It'll ask you the subvender is mismatched, you do want to proceed?

Type in y to proceed.

And then it'll ask you the Board ID is mismatched, type in capital letters YES to proceed.

Type YES to proceed.

And then it'll ask you do you want to replace the vbios with the new vbios, it'll show version of the vbios on there, do you want to proceed?

Type y to proceed.

And then it'll start flashing, if you hear any beep it's normal.

Once it's done flashing it should say something like the followings:

Verifying...

Flash successfully.

If you see this then you have flashed successfully.

Now, open up device manager and enable the GTX1070 Max-Q.

Reboot.

See if the followings is performing normally

1. Optimus
2. Memory Clock
3. Can you read the clock with GPU-Z?

If the above are all normally then you have successfully flashed.

If not it means you have activated Falcon reset.

If you have activated Falcon reset,

You'll need to restart the laptop twice.

And then flash back to the original Max-Q vbios and use it until you have found a new full mobile vbios to try out.

==============End of Chapter 1 ================

==============Chapter 2: Limiting the wattage pulled =============

Open up MSI Afterburner and perform the followings:






As MSI Afterburner breaks Optimus,

You can have MSI Afterburner run on start up and kill the MSI Afterburner using taskkill maybe 30 seconds after an user has logged in (You'll need to set up a task performing the taskkill in Task Scheduler).

By the way you have to quit the game immediately and reload MSI AB again if you have noticed that the driver has been reset, otherwise you might see the wattage shoot to 120W, I'm not sure if 120W can be handled by the GS65 in long term use, as the GS65 has less R22 regulators.

==============End of Chapter 2 ================

I believe the subvender ID isn't recorded into the vbios as the subvender ID mismatched warning will always prompt even when you are flashing your original vbios back to the GPU. Because the subvender ID held by the vbios is 0000-0000, so when compared to what's stored on the GPU it'll always be a mismatch. Therefore, I think it doesn't matter here.

As for the RAM, I didn't compare what the GE73 had and was only focusing on the file size of the vbios when downloading it from the Techpowerup vbios collection so I can't give you an answer for that one.

The score you saw on the 3DMark for the razer seems either it was simply an OC'd 90W variance with broken texture when running 3DMark, or a mobile 2060 flashed to a desktop 2060 with the same file size and limited using MSI Afterburner, or ran 3DMark through an e-GPU, what I know from last year that 3DMark doesn't know if you run it on an e-GPU which is really disturbing sometimes, not sure if that's fixed recently.

 

Thx man, very helpfull!

But I'm kinda scared from that 'driver crashing and frying the gpu' thing xd

I wished there would have been an actual 100watt Vbios... But I guess we can call ourselves lucky to have access to other VBios at all.

The ability to mod the VBios would have been really nice too not gonna lie! Then we wouldn't even need Afterburner and stuff like that.

Btw. what is this 'falcon reset'? I tried to look it up on Google but couldn't find anything...

 

It's a checksum verification developed by NVIDIA, it's called the Falcon Security, but I think it maybe more than just the checksum, they have been using it ever since the Maxwell generation.

 

Wtf my original vbios is 167kb... Am I fckd now?

 

It's fine, the one I dumped from my GS65 is 167KB too, forgot that part Oops! It's just that the vbios posted in my post is 166KB, I'll edit the post.

 

Hmm Interesting... I flashed this one: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/206356/206356
and now it wont detect my connected monitor on the mini display port nor the hdmi...

But Optimus works... and GPU-Z is able to read the GPU /-memory clock...

Guess Imma try the MSI GE 73 one provided by you.

 

How safe is it? I am used to soft bricking on android phones. It's a pain in the ass but for the most part recoverable.

From what I gather you just constantly refresh until given an opportunity to reflash.

I think I read somewhere someone wasn't able to reflash their stock bios.

Also, last question, are we still able to boot?. I assume if flash fails you still have iGPU to use to navigate and undo everything.

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Ok the GE73 one is able to output vid on the displayport. Now I have a Max-Q on Steroids xd

If anyone knows a 90 Watt VBios that doesn't let the gpu loose functionality, I'm interested!

I'm kinda scared by this 115/120 Watt thing...

 

Not sure what's the next logical step. The RTX2060 is already a full mobile version on 80W.

I am unable to source a 90W that matches memory, subvendor, etc.

I am able to find a desktop RTX2060 MSI that matches almost perfectly. But I would go from 80W to 160W.

A bit scared.

Not sure if I should try flashing the Asus RTX2060 90W or the desktop MSI 2060 160W.

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